How to destroy a Motogadget M-Unit - Revival Cycles' Tech Talk
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2016
- In this edition of Revival Cycles' Tech Talk, we try and destroy an m-Unit from Motogadget. Watch as we crank the voltage to the max, blow everyone's ears in the shop and show you that these m-Units are a sturdy option for keeping your custom motorcycle on the road.
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Ride ’em don’t hide ‘em, fellow moto-nerd.
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I have one of these in my 400 4 and it works flawlessly. Great to know there pretty indestructible as well. Keep up the good work guys !
Someone recommended the Black box to me and I told them I wasn't really interested in it and that I much preferred the M unit Blue. They ceased communications with me.
I realised about a week later, I was talking to the owner and designer of the Black box! 👀😅
Oh well.. what can I say.. I'm a Festool person, so naturally I'll go to M unit. The Germans are the Rolls Royce of design!
Thanks for the demonstration. I am looking to install one of these on my classic triumph.
Great video! Thanks again for making these.
***** haha Thanks!
When using standard switches leaving the highbeam switch on also turns on the parking light feature which beeped the horn twice when activated and I did think there was a problem with mine. Wish i would have seen this before contacting Motogadget but they were super helpful and sent me a new manual via e-mail which detailed the parking light feature better than the one that came with my M-unit. I installed mine on my 1973 Moto Guzzi Eldorado and did a full rewire and it was super easy even with relocating it out of the headlight bucket.
Yea that parking light is really more of a problem than a help, and very few people even noticed it mentioned in the manual, and the old manual had it wrong...i guess no one is prefect, but motogadget does get pretty close.
Can i use one on my cbr600rr in conjunction with the harness, I'm constantly avin problems with led indicators not being very bright as iv had to put 2resistors in the front, and the HD headlight is giving me grief sometimes, basically I bought it with a mess of wiring for the indicators and headlights, iv been threw it trying to neaten it up n put better connections on but I can't work out why it only works the way it does even tho it looks like a rats nest, just wondering if I can get an M-unit, use it for headlights, indicators n future bits, and just be done with it??
Mine went dead when i tried to configure the bluetooth. When i tried the start button, i had a failure. No led's are on when there is power in the lock.
Hey you guys. Tanks SO much for putting out these videos. It's been a great help. I am currently wiring my CB 750 with the m unit. When I turn the m unit on it flashes the right turn signal. When I turn on the L turn signal, both signals flash. When I turn off the L turn signal, they both turn off. And then I can't turn the right turn signal on again. Every thing else is working perfectly. I am using m switch minis and m button. Any ideas?
The first question I have is what are the input LED's on your m-Unit doing? The LED's give a lot of info into what is happening and why the m-Unit is operating as it is. Second, I suggest checking the configuration of the m-Unit, especially menu 5; with the m-Switch minis it should be set to option A.
Based on what you are describing it sounds like the right turn signal button may have a constant connection to ground. This should show up on the m-Unit LED's by having the Right turn input LED lighted whether the button is pushed or not.
My best guess on what is happening is that the m-Unit turns on and that starts the right signal flashing, then when the left is pushed it activates the hazard light feature and both sides flash. Then pushing the left button cancels the hazard lights, but then you cant turn the right signal on again because the m-Unit doesn't see a change of state on the input due to the input having a constant connection to ground.
There could be several causes of that problem, but start by isolating the issue, disconnect the input wire from the right turn input on the m-Unit and see if that has an effect. Then start to trouble shoot the button function. If you need more help, email techsupport@revivalcycles.com
Rytmisk Musik Holstebro I had something similar and it was down to a bad ground so maybe check that
Great stuff, I have A high cranking S&S with wil get a voltige drop, wil it still work whit a lower voltige ? or do i need a Moto gadget capacitor?
The m.Unit can handle voltages as low as 6v and I've never heard of an S&S having an issue there. However, S&S motors often have issues when using the m.Lock which requires a min 9v and a back up capacitor is available to solve that issue.
Haha. I made it. Accidentaly shorted the wires to the ignition. Small and short cablefire followed. After that the M-unit flashes all light s when powered. Is it beyond repair? Great videos by the way. Tanx
Ummm, that sounds like something went really wrong, with out any information about the install its all just speculation. A short on the ignition output of the m-Unit should cause the ignition output to shut down to prevent damage / fire. The fact that you got a cable fire means the m-Unit malfunctioned and did not cut power, or your wire gauge was WAY too small (unlikely), or the way its wired bypasses the m-Unit circuit protection.
Incorrect wiring with the ignition system has the potential to damage the m-Unit. The ignition coils are inductors and as such they can store energy (thats how they generate the spark), and if that energy gets sent back to the m-Unit instead of to the spark plug it can easily damage the m-Unit. This is why it is critical to keep the m-Unit isolated from the high tension (spark plug wires) side of the ignition coils.
Best test for m-Unit is to remove all input / output wires (except for Lock input). then turn it on, and test each circuit one by one. You can use a simple piece of wire connected to ground to touch each input to turn it on. If you are not able to get the m-Unit to power up and perform normally with nothing connected to it, it is most likely dead and you need to work with your supplier to resolve under warranty or get a replacement.
Revival Cycles Tanx for your answer. Great , but the thing is dead. I have ordered a new unit from my local dealer here in Oslo. I guess the Current went from the ignition out and to the lock input....the pink stuff that was solid, liquified from the heat...but the m-unit is great, .. my bad😬🤘🇳🇴
Can the m-unit be ran with a battery-less system? My project uses a kick start and my voltage regulator has a capacitor to eliminate the battery.
Unfortunately no it can't. The m.Unit requires a constant low voltage draw to maintain it's memory and it will not be able to power on if there is not at least 6v available. There are ways to emulate many of the features through other means, however, it's not really any cheaper to go that route. For more details you can shoot me an email to techsupport@revivalcycles.com.
I bought an almost new bike someone… 😂modified🤣… putting on a bunch of E-Bay cheap junk head light to removing the original signal and warning lights. In doing this they butchered the wiring harness.This is something you need to be aware of in looking over a bike before buying it. Thank heavens for this kind of kit. Now my suggestion is don’t complicate things. The M-unit helps with this. Another suggestion is direct wire the harness as much as possible and paying attention to the auxiliaries is important. As is having the harness connections permanent… I find eliminating plug connectors a particular benefit and simply making your connections in the harness whether crimp or solder to the components or branches in the harness sealed under shrink sleeve… with leaving a little bit extra length for later if necessary cut and remake your connections to have this permanence… solves much sources of problem. Come on 50,000 hour life LEDs and other long life electronics are permanent effectively. So why not and the small hassle of cut then remaking and shrink sleeving any later necessary repairs is a small price to pay.
If you are unsure of your skill put it all together with cut, twist and tape with leaving extra wire length for going back afterwards and tidy up with sealed permanent connections. So I don’t use terminal strips either the bother of permanent sealed direct wiring is reliability. Military and NATO wiring of combat vehicles of all kinds are direct wired like this with as few joints as possible. Then leave it the f_ck alone!
A note items with pig tails yes you can slice them in if the wires are potted with epoxy… but it is better, if possible, to open and direct with uncut wire to make the installation connections them. The worse offenders are post mount lights with the wires potted in the post… the best solution is make and sleeve the connections staggered in length to prevent bulkiness and as close together then have the have a large size shrink sleeve to overlap the post and sealed connection to seal and stabilize them. I recommend 4:1 shrink sleeve for all connections but in these cases it is optional to use adhesive lining for the cable stiffener overlay. Why 4:1 is it results in a more resilient to bending connection. Vibration is the killer of wiring connections so keep this in mind. Top racing teams minimize solder use and maximize tight crimp with only one wire in a crimp meaning the crimping of a single wire from two pieces means use of side-by side crimp units… and to get a pressure weld thos $150 - or more crimpers😢!
Have you guys started using the m.unit blue yet?
We've got one for testing, but haven't had time to make a video yet. Its on the list...really can't wait to show this one
Aux output , is that for like your igntion coils
This video was made a few years back on a now obsolete m.Unit V.2 and on those the AUX out is the ign out. The newer models have a dedicated terminal for the ignition.
@@RevivalCycles in real close to buying one! Real close !!! My 00 r6 is stripped of wires and I need this I just dont know how my icu would run to it ! Or would it ? The only thing I see my icu using on my Haynes manuel that I wonder how it hooks to the m unit is the igntion coils that plug to the "plug wire" as i call it which then goes to the spark plugs!..
Do i plug those up to the aux or so on the m unit? Like i know i should get a manuel with the m unit but was just wondering !!?? Thanks if you can understand me lol
Can the m unit be used positive earth for my old triumph
No it can't but the good news is that it's easy and advantageous to convert your Triumph to Neg earth
CAN THE M UNIT WORK ON A 96 TWIN CAM WHEN BIUING A HARD TAI CHOPPER