thanks for a very informative video. I want to get a boat soon and will have to buy a " fixer upper " so learning lots from your videos. Thanks once again. She will reward you for your effort soon enough.
Mama Mia, what a job. I highly respect your perseverance. I also made a decision to never allow humidity meters on board of my 42y old Colvic Victor 34 ;)
Great videos Sir! I hope to own a 352 some day and use it to see the world, that makes this very interesting and educational. I'm a DIY-kind of guy my self and your videos have given me a lot of value as to what to look for on these specific HRs. Thank you very much and I wish you all the best and good luck from now on.
Man! I’m happy that you made this decision, even though it’s not funny, to make sure to dry it out properly. Even if you decide to take all the skin and core away and make a Sail Life rebuild I’m with you. When having it all totally dry and finished the new deck it is totally worth it. Yes, it takes time and yes, it costs. But however, you then have a mint condition HR with very nice shapes and your pride gained by doing it yourself is worth much more. I’m impressed by your innovative way of creating that hot air wind tunnel. Fair drying and all the best for your project 👍🏽 💪🏽
Great video, many thanks. I watch with interest as I am facing a similar situation with my own boat: teak deck very worn and border line beyond renovation. I intend to give it a try with the view that I've little to lose, but I am already well into reluctant acceptance that I'm most likely on a high road to nowhere and the teak will ultimately have to come off along with some top skin to repair damaged core. Good luck with your project. Looking forward to your next video post. Just subscribed by the way. 👍
HI Danny, if I was to start the teak removal process again, I would pick one spot that is likely to have the most water seepage (i.e. pick the lowest part of the deck where water will gather) and then just rip up a meter of teak. Don't worry about damaging the gel coat, you may have to cut up the skin anyway. Then I would drill a few holes in the deck and check the core, and sound it for delimitation. If there was no delimitation and the core was not to drenched then I would plane up the deck gently to preserve the gel coat. But for me I went the wrong way about it - planing off the teak only to have to cut most of the skin off in the end! Goof luck with your project and feel free to ask any questions! cheers, Richard
Surely you have hit rock bottom now.... on wards and upwards... knowing you have dry decks must be a relief....! Look forward to you putting Wanda back together.... exciting times ahead.
As you have discovered if the foam is not adhered to the deck skins it is not providing the structural strength it was designed to either. It is supposed to be one part of a beam structure (or box) which requires it to be one composite unit not three separate components, hence the flexible deck. When you reassemble make sure you bond the core material to both top and bottom securely. Always seems never ending when you are at this stage.
Wow. What a job.!!! You're so determined, I'm amazed. I would have thrown the towel in a long time ago :) Hope she dries up quickly. Wont be easy with just the hot air contraption I think.. Hope I'm wrong for your sake.. Best of luck...
Thanks! I have to keep thinking of the end game - that I’ll have a nice boat that I know every square inch of and have absolute confidence in her seaworthiness !
Wow, what a major pain in the arse. Now I need to watch all of the other videos to see how you get the new core bonded, especially under the flanged areas. I’m cringing just watching you work with all that fiberglass dust. I did some fiberglass work in my younger days on surfboards and it sucked! Those minute fibers get everywhere and make you miserable, especially in hot weather when you’re sweating.
I think you are on the right path there. When you start putting everything back together, do not use sandwich anywhere where you have anything bolted thru the deck. I'm actually a bit surprised HR was using sandwich under the genoa rail and cleats!?
Yeah it’s a bit disappointing, every fastener that penetrates the core goes directly into the foam or wood. When I put everything back together I will overdrill the holes and fill with epoxy and then re-drill to correct size - the ‘right’ way to do it. Overall the Hallberg Rassys are nicely built, but occasionally I do find something that makes me scratch my head and wonder what they were thinking!
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Your wonderful unforced humor made my nightmare of replacing my own core far less stressing. Even learned a great deal! Brilliant mate. Cheers!
Thanks Lawrence - good luck with your core and happy. you found this useful - I have learnt a lot from watching other people along the way!
thanks for a very informative video. I want to get a boat soon and will have to buy a " fixer upper " so learning lots from your videos. Thanks once again. She will reward you for your effort soon enough.
Mama Mia, what a job. I highly respect your perseverance. I also made a decision to never allow humidity meters on board of my 42y old Colvic Victor 34 ;)
Great videos Sir! I hope to own a 352 some day and use it to see the world, that makes this very interesting and educational. I'm a DIY-kind of guy my self and your videos have given me a lot of value as to what to look for on these specific HRs. Thank you very much and I wish you all the best and good luck from now on.
Thanks, good luck with your search for a 352. They sure are beautifully built boats!
Man! I’m happy that you made this decision, even though it’s not funny, to make sure to dry it out properly. Even if you decide to take all the skin and core away and make a Sail Life rebuild I’m with you. When having it all totally dry and finished the new deck it is totally worth it. Yes, it takes time and yes, it costs. But however, you then have a mint condition HR with very nice shapes and your pride gained by doing it yourself is worth much more. I’m impressed by your innovative way of creating that hot air wind tunnel. Fair drying and all the best for your project 👍🏽 💪🏽
Great video, many thanks. I watch with interest as I am facing a similar situation with my own boat: teak deck very worn and border line beyond renovation. I intend to give it a try with the view that I've little to lose, but I am already well into reluctant acceptance that I'm most likely on a high road to nowhere and the teak will ultimately have to come off along with some top skin to repair damaged core. Good luck with your project. Looking forward to your next video post. Just subscribed by the way. 👍
HI Danny, if I was to start the teak removal process again, I would pick one spot that is likely to have the most water seepage (i.e. pick the lowest part of the deck where water will gather) and then just rip up a meter of teak. Don't worry about damaging the gel coat, you may have to cut up the skin anyway. Then I would drill a few holes in the deck and check the core, and sound it for delimitation. If there was no delimitation and the core was not to drenched then I would plane up the deck gently to preserve the gel coat. But for me I went the wrong way about it - planing off the teak only to have to cut most of the skin off in the end! Goof luck with your project and feel free to ask any questions!
cheers, Richard
Surely you have hit rock bottom now.... on wards and upwards... knowing you have dry decks must be a relief....! Look forward to you putting Wanda back together.... exciting times ahead.
As you have discovered if the foam is not adhered to the deck skins it is not providing the structural strength it was designed to either. It is supposed to be one part of a beam structure (or box) which requires it to be one composite unit not three separate components, hence the flexible deck. When you reassemble make sure you bond the core material to both top and bottom securely. Always seems never ending when you are at this stage.
Wow. What a job.!!! You're so determined, I'm amazed. I would have thrown the towel in a long time ago :) Hope she dries up quickly. Wont be easy with just the hot air contraption I think.. Hope I'm wrong for your sake.. Best of luck...
Thanks! I have to keep thinking of the end game - that I’ll have a nice boat that I know every square inch of and have absolute confidence in her seaworthiness !
you are amazing :) This boat will love you forever ;)
nice setup
Brave and inspiring :). How do you know where to position fittings when deck is renewed? How long did you run the heat gun for?
Wow, what a major pain in the arse. Now I need to watch all of the other videos to see how you get the new core bonded, especially under the flanged areas. I’m cringing just watching you work with all that fiberglass dust. I did some fiberglass work in my younger days on surfboards and it sucked! Those minute fibers get everywhere and make you miserable, especially in hot weather when you’re sweating.
Yup it aint pretty!
I think you are on the right path there.
When you start putting everything back together, do not use sandwich anywhere where you have anything bolted thru the deck.
I'm actually a bit surprised HR was using sandwich under the genoa rail and cleats!?
Yeah it’s a bit disappointing, every fastener that penetrates the core goes directly into the foam or wood. When I put everything back together I will overdrill the holes and fill with epoxy and then re-drill to correct size - the ‘right’ way to do it. Overall the Hallberg Rassys are nicely built, but occasionally I do find something that makes me scratch my head and wonder what they were thinking!