More Problems With The $27,000 6.7L Powerstroke! REGRET’S? *IT’S BAD*
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2023
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Check vacuum pump seal.. they're notorious for having loose bolts from factory...
Upper oil pan could be but don't think so since that year model they use a gasket instead of silicone like new trucks..
Or crank seal which would be last
Man I just bought one last week.
Oh by the way on the hub assembly which Ford likes to charge $600 for you could buy the inner bearing if you pop it out and take it to a part shop and just do a number swap which might cost you only 40 bucks which is a hell of a cheaper.
Hey could you send me the link to the obd2 reader that you have?
I’ve worked on so many of these trucks, and I have to admit that these 6.7’s are awesome. The 2011-2012’s have slightly more issues than the 2013+, (turbo and valve body, upper oil pan gasket etc.) but they are awesome trucks. I have a buddy that bought one brand new in 2014 (2015 model), and he’s a hot shot trucker with 322k with the original U-joints. Also, that oil leak under the truck is from the upper oil pan. Look into it. Also, cummins and GM have the exact same amount of front end issues as the fords. It’s just normal wear and tear.
I appreciate the fact that you are still learning!! It’s crazy to remember you starting out in that tiny cold garage rebuilding your turbo with a wicked wheel and now your way up!
At least they circled the problem on the front of the truck for you...
🤣🤣
At least the new 6.7s aren’t as slow as the l5pees😮
@@sugmaball5383lol you want race. I bet my l5p waxes your 6.7 😂. To the point id put pinks on it 😂.
Hahaha!
It’s not a circle, it’s a oval . Also Ford makes their own engine .
Good to have a buddy that knows his shit to help out. We all need a friend like you.
The upper oil pan gasket is a common leak point on those 6.7L engines. You guys should’ve done balljoints on the truck while you were that far deep into the axle just so you don’t have to do it a year or so later. I just recently rebuilt the entire front axle on my ‘99 F-350 with the 7.3L. Going to be doing front and rear driveshaft U-joints soon, they’re original with 155K on the odometer.
Thanks for the info
How hard were the u-joints on yours? Got that on the long list of shit to do on my 88 lol
@@CharredSteak, not bad to do really. I did the front shaft a few weeks ago, going to do the rear sometime this week. My truck is an extremely early late model ‘99 truck. It had the saginaw double carden joint instead of the spicer double carden joint. The difference is the saginaw has a longer tie bar between the 2 joints of the carden. Just make sure you order yourself new yoke strap kits for the front and rear, those tiny bolts tend to round off since they most likely have no anti-seize on them.
@@JLCmike4014 Yeah didnt have any issues with the spicers on my 93 but I also dont wanna jinx myself. Gonna go ahead and get a new carrier bearing too while im at it
@@CharredSteak, i definitely would. I already replaced my carrier bearing about a year ago so it’s fine. Couldn’t do the u-joints because the bolt heads rounded off some and i didn’t have the twist socket to get them off until now. Plus they weren’t bad back then, just the carrier bearing. I prefer the greaseable u-joints but others prefer the sealed. I’d rather be able to flush any crap that may get in the joint out with fresh grease when it comes time to grease the chassis. Whenever i do an oil change the whole chassis is greased and the truck is thoroughly looked over as well.
If you run the crankcase breather all the way to the back, you have to keep an eye on it in the winter. It can plug with snow and ice.
Install a one way check valve.. PCV in the end of the hoses..
$27k with 252k miles, holy highway robbery
Yah and it's getting pretty rusty under the rockers. No F'n way I would pay that for a used for ford. Now if it had a clean body, from the south and a fresh motor ok maybe. People are getting retarded with what they will pay.
Florida Is over priced ans you can get that rust free here atleast in great shape
Wow they say you coming 27 grand ouch
I’m hoping I get my hands on this 13 with 300k for 15k.
Directions unclear. I now own a 6 liter.
I’ve replaced the axle seals on my 99, 02, and 04, never gets better😂
My 2012 was doing that steering thing. U joints was my issue. Also, oil leak is probably the upper pan leaking
Yes, we have family and business combines 15 different superdutys threw the years. The front ends are most of the time pretty solid. What i do find goes out is steering stabilizer and shocks . And cab bushings from 05-15
“IT’s powered by…”😂had me rolling
You guys are getting after the issues, that what you have to do. 👍
A ball joint press works pretty slick for replacing u joints 👌🏻
My man with the excursion! I enjoy mine I’d love to see that thing on the channel!
Also a large seal driver set should cover that inner axle seal. Honestly I get H.F. Drivers or whatever Amazon offers 😂
They have some with 1” driving rod that pilots into the plate so you can fish it through the knuckle. Makes it a little easier keeping the seal concentric. But you got it in!!
Found a great use for a Duramax. Check the vacuum pump bolts as they are known to come loose and cause a small oil leak.
When you guys mentioned about having a good amount of spare money to own a diesel, you guys were straight on😂😂. I can see why my parents didn’t agree with me having a diesel when I was a teen lol.
I remember back in March my front axle did the same thing on my F350 dulley
You guys can use the vice and a few sockets to push the u-joint apart.
We pick them up on the front radius arms, a lot more balanced on the lift.
Check the glow plug harness, my truck leaks a little from the glow plug harness o-rings.
It would be a good idea to service the axels. Fluid change
These front ends are rock solid of they are maintained.
That one is due for axle joints and hub assemblies. At least. Slap some new brakes on it while your in there.
Not true I just had to rebuild front end on mine started getting that death wobble. It will scare the crap out of you when it happens. I've got 238000 on mine no heavy towing & it's stayed on the black top most of its life. Track bar was a nightmare to replace 😕
My buddies 2013, f250, did the exact same thing. He also had a death wobble along witht he steering lock up. I don't think the factory ujoints are greasable, so those were replaced before.
On the 2011 F-350 I bought 3 months ago with 210K miles, the original (previous) owner had only ever changed the brake pads. The steering was perfectly smooth and tight, brakes were strong, and there was clunking noise when engaging 4X4. A/C compressor was not working. Work just completed (truck runs just like new now) include u-joints, brakes (including calipers), a tie rod, vacuum pump (leaky), hydroboost, a backing plate (corroded), and driveline seals everywhere.
I see that you are getting a very loose inner hub bearing issue which is very common from 05 up to your truck, and I believe it goes a few years beyond that. There is a device that’s made to go into your ABS pug on the hub. Rift raft diesel performance makes a Zirk fitting attachment so you can keep lube up and keep intact.
those bearings are non-serviceable. Cording to Ford will take it some buddy figured out a way to take care of that.
Keep lube so they won’t fail.
Yes, I have a chevy tahoe (95) and I have almost 280K on my vehicles and never had to replace them.
Dunno Ive had my LLY for like 3 years now and never really had an issue only maintenance. Sure there's a few things that could need fixing, like the blend door motor and theres some funky stuff going on with the seatheater but theyre just minor things.
Check the vacuum pump bolts for tightness that is another common leak point
Check the vacuum pump bolts. They’re known to be finger tight from the factory.
If the truck was in 2wd most of the time the U joints can last that long. They aren't spinning unless hubs are locked, (either automatically with the vaccume system, or manually)
It's a four wheel drive Michigan truck. It needs service regardless of make. Also, all hardcore off-roaders use that type of front axle. And as you stated, maintenance is everything. Maintainence is everything for these trucks.
What would be a good price for a 2017 Powerstroke Diesel and how many miles would be fair how many miles would be alright for $28,000
I have a 2012 F350 and I can honestly tell you the only thing I’ve ever done to it besides oil changes and fuel filters is the vacuum pump and primary water pump. It even has the original brakes. I fixed both of those issues in my driveway for under $200. I think it depends on how well it was treated. At least you don’t have a Dodge because at 250,000 miles, you’d be on your 6 th transmission and 3rd set of body panels because they would have all rotted off.
I guess you decided to resort to child like insults. Makes you look insecure. Why do you care some much about the brand that has made the best diesel engine in pickups and literally makes diesel engines as their sole job.
Unlike Ford whose trying to juggle 1.7L turbos, battery packs, 8 different f150 engine options.
Quantity over Quality personified
@@quentonmillstid850 facts are facts, not insults. The Dodges rot apart as soon as you drive them off the lot, and the transmissions burn up as soon as you try and do anything with the truck besides driving through the Walmart parking lot. Anyone who owns these trucks know exactly what I’m talking about.
@@quentonmillstid850 Dude I'm a Dodge and Ford guy and he's not wrong... I have owned several 1500s (and still currently own one) and a 2500 as well as own 95 Ford F-Super Duty Service Truck with a 7.3L and Dodge has terrible issues with rusting especially the beds over the rear wheels. Super common issue even if you don't live in the rust belt and god help you if you do happen to live where it snows a lot.. The motors literally outlive the body's on those trucks especially the Diesels. There's a reason a LOT of people are now swapping the Cummins engines over to really nice Ford body's especially ones with the 6.0L so they get the best of both worlds, a really good reliable engine that's piss easy to work on and a nice body and ride that wont rust to death.
The transmission issues however in my personal experience with Dodge's its normally because when people pull loads they wont put the transmission into tow mode which will eat up the transmission. Also another huge issue with the 1500s is the 4.7L engine is one of the most garbage engines you can have the misfortune of having in any truck... They wont make it past 200K miles before they blow a head gasket or the cam eats its self up and you cant even rebuild them you have to just swap the engine out.
Ford also has its issues especially the 6.0L Diesel, it's probably the worst Diesel engine ever created. And the F-150s with the 5.4L 3V are another one of Fords blunders that anyone who has the misfortune of buying one will be putting a $7K engine in every few years. Then you have GM which their biggest issue is they make them impossible to work on. GM Engineers would walk a mile through hot coals and broken glass just to screw a mechanic.
@Demonlord468 Hey man, I just bought a fantastic '06 F-250, with the 6.0 deleted and with the coolant filter kit but hasn't been studded yet, I heard I need to get that FICl or whatever it's called that programs the injectors or some shit, IDK, I paid 5 K and 170K miles on it and man it runs strong and no smoke, In you're opinion should I pay the 6 grand to have ARP studs installed or just wait for symptoms and then just have a rebuilt 6.0 already studded?? I figure it would be worth just paying a little more and getting a rebuilt one already studded?? You're thoughts?
@@michaelbauer-ig3ik I’d definitely have the head studs and good gaskets done if you’re going to put any kind of power to it. As far as the FICM, I don’t know a whole lot about them besides that it controls the injector solenoids but the PCM controls the tuning. I’m pretty sure you can’t tune the FICM, it either works or it don’t. They’re good motors if you take care of them.
My is 2012 f250 6.7 with 386000 with the same u joints and not problems yet.
I like the Ford death wobble. Especially when it's so crazy it shatters your back window. That's fun.
😂
@@TruckMaster My square body GM shook so bad from death wobble it broke the tie rod end.
That’s marsh auto sales for ya. Lemon stand bro.
I would never buy something from those shady mfers!
I had a 2001 F150 from new to 207k miles no issues. I know it wasn’t a Diesel but that’s pretty good for a gas truck.
That’s really good
My old Powerstroke had the same issue, drove fine for years until I used 4 wheel drive then I had issues
I just saw your video in my feed for some reason, but wow, your experience seems to be the exact opposite of mine. I own a 2017 F-250 King Ranch with the second-gen 6.7 and mine has been solid. I have it bone stock though, and my dealer services it every 5,000mi under normal driving, and every fluid and grease-point along with filters (transfer-case, transmission, differentials, coolant systems, steering components, etc) every 50k. My truck has 155,000mi on it now. Sorry you're having such a bad time with your rig! I absolutely love mine!
Missed your chance to do ball joints like they all need lol
Get a "Tiger Tool" for ease of U-joint replacement!
Rather have the gm IFS ALL day! I've never spent more than 2hrs doing any kind of work on the front end. And parts are cheap enough.
Yea ppl don’t understand at the end of the day gm gets shit done. Even with a bigger motor then the 5.7 I have in mine no issues at all. Ever I did my ball joints in a few hours and brakes as well. Crazy how easy these trucks are to work on and I can tow just as much at this truck and it’s an 88 so it’s old I just like old maybe he doesn’t but still shouldn’t have gone with a ford.
Josh at 10:38 you see the grove that is in the shaft in the machined spot for it to go into the front pumpkin ring and pinion I looked at all the replacement shafts on rock auto on the images there is no grove on the new replacement shafts so your friend has front pumpkin issues tell him to get the truck back to you rfn that part of the front end isn’t going to last the upcoming winter the bearings inside the ring and pinion are toast he is going to have a two wheel drive truck soon if he does the truckmaster Earl hard tugs he is going to need a new front axle
Litterally seen brand new 6.7s on the lot with more blow by then that lmao
Left front locking hub assembly replaced at 37000 miles on a 2016 F 350
I just noticed the truck has a lariat and king ranch badges. Which of the two are the real trim level?
Yeah that’s normal blow by for a 6.7 or other high compression diesels lol. Also 6.7’s leak oil just like a Cummins. That’s part of it. But you don’t have to worry about breaking a crank
I'd never pay 27k for a truck with rocker rust and the cab corners damn near gone.
That's what I'm saying. A new engine is great but it does zero good when the body rots out. By next summer that thing will have holes, I know all too well with my Dodges lol.
The early year 6.7s are known for not being the best of the 6.7s. I’m a chevy guy like most truck master subs but I think the 6.7 powerstroke is the best motor of the big three and fords have the best looking body and interior of the past few years.
@andypedro8905 why a 2016?
@@andypedro8905 the first generation of the 6.7 powerstroke is 2011-2013. then 2014 to 2019 is the second generation. 2015 they change the turbo to a better turbo. 2020 to current is the same and now they have the high output option in 2023. There’s a few other changes throughout the years but since 2015 they’ve been pretty reliable.
@@andypedro89052017 and up, aluminum body is awesome
@jonathoncatterson8901 the 16 is the best year.
@@HSKFabrications the 15 and 16 are identical trucks other than being made in a different year.
Napa 😂, now you are gonna beat him off lol
Steering issues! Super duty is notorious for broken steering box bolts.
I own an 03 with the Dana 60 and iv replaced the seals on it but when they go bad it can happen but I've never had my steering wheel stick though both with bad u join and bad seal most likely it could be the wheel bearing or the hub lock itself causing the issue
That’s great info thanks
@@TruckMaster also when replacing u joints I learned this the hard way the best ways the get those out is either with a hand held ball joint press or with a hydraulic press to get those out but I will agree they are a pain
Could be upper oil pan leaking
The first video was not excessive blow by.. that was vapor there is a difference in vapor and blow by.
I’m a duramax Cummins guy so we aren’t really use to blow by lol. I have a f550 work truck with 6.7. First time I pipe the oil cap when running it scared the shit out of me. That was awhile back and the truck still runs fine, still worried about it blowing up everyday I just can’t trust a ford diesel. Ford hasn’t figured out how to put spark plugs in gas engines or cross hatch the cylinders in the 6.7 so it doesn’t have enough blowby to fill your tire up. The guy should put a air chuck on the blow by tube, get some use out of it lol
Look in the air intake pipe see if that cai did its job...
My 99' 7.3L has 333,000 miles and every U-joint on the truck is original and as tight as they can be.
You always lift a tuck with the lift beam as close to the front of the front door as possible
Please explain how that’s possible on this particular truck???
I have a 2015 f250 with 285K miles, had to replace u-joints, wheel bearings, ball joints, steering linkage, shocks etc and ready for another 300k. Had to replace radiator and charge air cooler when DPF clogged and blew the boot apart. As rusty as you guys trucks get, you should have changed the shafts too.
Can tell you I've never had an issue lifting a 6.7 on a 2 post hoist. 😅 hoist it right and it won't be unstable
😄
I had a 2004 avalanche with 470k on it had original ujoints and shocks and ball joints explain that to me lol
your oil is coming from the upper oil pan, most leak due to the ccv blocking up
Don’t assume it’s upper oil
Pan look at the bottom of the head could be injector seals in valve cover
Ball joint may be seizing up.
THE OIL LEAK ISNT THE OIL PAN, it’s the upper oil pan gasket. Those trucks are known for it, look into it.
Never had a major problem with any of my diesel trucks repairs aren’t 10k unless u blow the motor like a front diff goes it’s 2k or a new drive shift is 500 and every 5k miles u only spend like 200 to keep it up to date on fluids
Do u need to retune or upgrade anything to run a 64mm turbo i have a lly duramax studded built trans no lift pump yet nd efi live tune 5 switch
Yes you will need a retune with this setup
Ccv will cause a multitude of leaks in those. The vaccum pump bolts will also back out causing a leak all down the front of the engine that the fan will throw around. The ceramic bearings in that MY turbo will go bad along with glow plug tips breaking off into the head. All in all they are great truck and yes the blow by is 100% normal in those trucks
They did a recall on those plugs and updated them with newer ones
Anyone else notice the sparks on the brake line at 10:08? Lmao
Looks like a fun project, but I think the used prices on these are a ripoff. I bought a 2011 F-250 Lariat with 150k for $1000 more in 2018. Sold that, could've gotten a similar 2012 with 240k for $16500 in 2019 but it was too worn out for me.
Currently have an lmm and my vanes are sticking bad when it's hot. Don't have the money for a new nice turbo, is there a way to fix this or is it worth building an lly turbo myself
Pull it apart clean it reassemble.
I had a 2012 F250 that was plagued with issues. From the death wobble that Ford could not fix, to the endless oil leaks, to going through 2 sets of front calipers to the crankcase ventilation system problems like this one the truck just became more trouble than it was worth. I ended up hating the thing and it was a shame because it was a beautiful truck it just never worked well enough for me to feel like I could trust it.
That sucks me and my family have had good luck out of our superdutys knock on wood. My mother has 11 6.7 300k with just a replaced turbo nothing else wrong with it
Yes if you like it
So what do you buy
My 2014 f250 did me no wrong. I had to replace the body cab mounts. Regular oil, fuel filter, air filter changes. Fuel treatment to keep the injectors clean. I had 200,000 miles on it with no issues until a person ran a red light and totaled it. Well the insurance company totaled it. It could have been fixed.
Don't forget the cost of fuel too for maintenance
Good ole PowerChoke
27k... actually in TODAY'S market. That's a good buy. Considering the price of a new truck. If you spend another 10k to go through and fix everything else you can find. Which sounds like plan... put it on your hoist and inspect it front to rear... set up with Mark at Kodiak and rebuild the transmission and transfer case... all seals... everything you will be at 37 to 40k and a new truck.... that's a savings. Worse case you discover bigger issues beyond that amount.. sell it. Jack the body up and drive a Duramax under it... 😎👍... Btw... how is your Dodge coming along ? You don't show it much. Same with your big Ford ? Looking forward to seeing what's next. 😎👍
$27k for a 12 year old, quarter million mile 3/4 ton truck from the salt belt? That seems like alot of dough for that seasoned vehicle. I bought my 2013 Ram 2500 diesel Mega Cab Big Horn new out the door for $41K. It has 45,000 miles and garaged since new in GA. How much is it worth? Let the flaming begin.
No I have not heard of that
The U- Joint
I would definitely dump that K & N air filter. They draw a very fine dust.
These problems are minor LOL. I thought you were talking about the high pressure fuel pump or the turbo blowing up, or a glow plug tip breaking off and wrecking the motor, or what happened to the 2014 I just bought for $4000, 3 of the rocker arms on bank one have worn out and slipped off the valves, going to pull the head and see if the cam is wrecked. Only 200K on it but it may have not had enough oil changes
Nobody notice that spark on the tie rod at 10:07?
Cummins is the way to go for diesel 😎
I have a 2014 I re did all my ball joints with moog and then replaced my track bar with heavy duty adjustable one and then put a dual stabilizer and the new upper steering stabilizer to new moog end links and the problem solver and my truck drives like a new truck. Brand new before I had death wobble and shaking front end bad has 160k of the happiest truck moments
And
Replace my sway bar end links with hein joints from PMF
Must have a pocket full of money to own a DIESEL pick-up.
388k on my 7.3 and ive had it sense 198k and i havent had a single problem with my front axle they seem stout, actually i haveny had a single problem qith the whole truck in that time
Big socket or 4x4
Someone ran the piss out of that king ranch and then sold it lol
I think I’m gonna propose to the air hammer
Just had to do my front axle U-Joints, 243,000 on my '06 6.0, I picked this truck up on New Years Day 2006 !!! My baby, BUT, I'm going to have to let her go to someone new.... Soon !!!!
Mine 2012 u joints have 279 thousand on them
Who else noticed the brake caliper sparked when he was air hammering that seal out 🤣🤣
I did 😂
😂 that’s really got me thinking lol
The Spindle is bad which took out the seal.
I have Four Trucks three GM and one Ford with a 6.7 but it a 2020 the GMC are 14, 19, 21, and we we just sold a 5500 with the Detuned Duramax to a young man from Canada. That truck was a turd so it’s had to go. Now the 14 you and Matt worked on and the others three is all factory with Banks Plug and Play with no deletes at all that System is Awesome.
A 2x4 works perfect
$27,000 for a truck with 250k lmao
🤣
The 6.7 Ford is possibly the best 3/4 and 1 ton diesel truck ever made. Extremely reliable engine with an incredibly stout transmission.
U joints on my old man’s 6.7 lasted to 300k