You should use a little bit of bio desiel. I worked at a plant that made bio disiel and let me tell you it is the best cleaning agent I ever came across
I do know that bio diesel is so strong it would eat the rubber from my boots and when put into a diesel tank with 100% bio diesel it will clog the filter at least twice because it cleans everything. I've put a Mason jar into my gas tank before with no problems but never tested it to see if it cleaned anything.
Liqui Moly makes great products. I have used the engine flush in 2 of my Subaru's (one has 115,000 the other 195,000). What a difference! Idle quality very much improved, engines much , much smoother and noticable reduction in engine noise. Their injection cleaner works well too.
LiquiMoly fuel system cleaner saved me about $2600 on a Lexus gs300 in which the idle control valve was glogged and stocking. In the end I went overboard and bought six cans over two months. Yep, $180 and the car has never run with more power. Absolutely a fan.
@@Techie1224 and if you want to be fancy, you can buy a can of carby cleaner for $5. Taking it off and cleaning is a 2 minute job and you're guaranteed its clean.
I always do these cleanings with load in the engine. Like cruising in a Road. I use the windshield washer plumbing to do it. With heat and pressure and rpms the temperature goes up and the dispersants get way more efficient. I use ethanol mixed with water and go ridding hard and injecting it to the best distribution intake manifold ports. It doesn't hurt any sensors or Catalist, just clean them real good.
I love liqui moly products. One piece of advice for next time and others out there going to do this. make sure you spray any liquids after the MAF sensor. I'm an ex mechanic and have seen the affects of when the liquids damage the sensor. Using proper MAF sensor cleaner is advised.
Just got done with mine. Ran 1 bottle through the TB like you did and 1 bottle through the vacuum line of the break booster. 90 min heatsoak and 30 min highway speed and repeated the same procedure one more time. I know a little of an overkill, but noticable difference in how smooth the power comes on. LM is cheap compared to CRC. Also replaced 500ml of the motor oil with seafoam before the start.
Great to know you listen to all the suggestions you get, great job modifying the accent, keep improving. Thank you for taking my advice about the catchphrase. Still waiting for the next round in the oil tournament.
To clean the intakes search for a specialized (!) blast cleaning service who uses walnut grit. This is about 300€, but the intakes would look like new. Can rise 20-30 PS. Install a oil catch can (OCC) after that to prevent condensing oil damps on the cooler intake valves.
Seriously thinking about installing a throttle body spacer with a feeding port. Somehow installing a pressurized cylinder that can be activated by the driver similar to the meth kits. Constantly being able to feed a bottle through before turning off the car.
Wow. Impressive. I didn't think you could clean out the valves with a cleaner like that, especially on a gdi motor. I have an 06 vw passat, 2.0t with a 140000 mi on it. Might be worth to try it out. Thanks.
I used to remove carbon build up in the 70's by using just plain tap water run through a small vacuum port on the intake after warming the engine to operating temp and driving the car with it connected. It always worked great and wouldn't hurt the engine because it was only connected briefly.
Also, the problem is what that carbon can do to your piston rings as that cleaner dissolves and chunks of that carbon drops into the combustion chamber. It can rip your piston rings and cause engine failure folks. I'm a 27 year mechanic.
It also works with going a long distance with a high rpm - min one hour at 4-5k rpm on diesel - 6-8k rpm on esence. the enduring high temperature at the exhaustsystem will burn most oilcoal on valves, collector, and exhaustepipes... sometimes it causes black dust out of the pipes - that's when it works...
Just used this on my 2013 Elantra limited. We will see how it works. Only has 60k on it but the valve train is noisy sometimes even when up to operating temperature. The used car dealer I bought it from said they have some noise when cold so fingers crossed I have similar results although I don’t have a borescope to check I’ll see if I notice any driving improvements. Thanks for the great video ! Now to let this thing heat soak ! 👍
Don´t forget, never spray any chemicals in the front of a maf sensor ...... better you buy a valve-protect system like the flashlube system for lpg cars. During you drive the direct-injection car , the system will clean your intakevalves smoothly.
I own a Veloster, and I can tell you from experience, it is an uphill battle to keep the engine clean! I think part of the problem with that engine in particular is the piston rings getting stuck, which then leads to TONS of blow-by, which then ends up back on the valves forming carbon, which never get cleaned bc of how it's built. I just added a catch can in mine after learning the hard way about all this stuff.... My car just stopped running bc of carbon. They media blasted it at 115k, and I'm now at 121k. Using a bore scope, I looked in the cylinders before doing a piston ring soak with Berryman's B12 ChemTool... TOTALLY caked with carbon deposits!!! I was SO mad! IMO, this is likely the best car to use for videos on how to remove carbon - it is just SO prone to creating it in such a short amount of time! In this video you can even see where the catch can is already added in the engine bay - its the gold colored metal box on the passenger side of the car.
Wow, will probably just add it to my fuel tank instead of this method, but sure is nice to know that it actually works this well before spending the coin. Thanks for uploading
If you own a direct injection car, it wont work by adding it to the fuel tank because direct injection doesn't spray fuel directly onto the intake valves so the cleaner won't ever make it onto the intake valves.
liquimoly valve clean comes in a much smaller can, but is also much cheaper here in Europe. Makes you wonder whether using a full can of CRC is necessary per treatment. I will do regular treatment using 1-2 cans of liquimoly. A smaller dose, means less liquid in the engine at any given time. I found using CRC some of it got stuck in the intake mainfold or pieces (*of carbon deposits) came off, because my engine misfired (I accelerated to suddenly) don't do that. Maybe should let it soak a bit longer when using more or drive more carefully.
Hey Nate, I have a question for you. I have just done this on my 2008 Volkswagen Jetta with the FSI direct injection motor. I ran about four cans of this product through the intake where the PCV valve hose connects. Tons of white smoke poured out and then by the fourth can the smoke head cleared, but my question is, how often can I do this? Will overdoing it be problematic for any seals ?
if the engine is dirty burned oils and much carbons then this procces will take all the dirt to the catalyc converter and then you will need to clean it manually
I have been doing this to fleet vehicles for a while Just use water poke 2 small holes in a water bottle cap I use 2 bottles and with a hot engine rev the engine to different rpm no steady rpm and spray water in the carb or throttlebody I have done multiple treatments over the years and even pulled the engines out after and they have come out cleaner that that
I don't know if I believe the before and after photos the picture on the left looks too extreme and I also noticed the posters responses are selective to the people who comment about how great this product is vs many other posts that had good questions that he does not answer
Nice performance from this product. But... The detached particles from the carbon deposits where they are gone? to the cylinder? to the catalytic converter? to the particulate filter?...
Presumably they dissolve and perhaps abrate, enter the cylinder and (hopefully) exit via the exhaust. It is possible for them to get caught in either the cat' or the silencer baffles though but that happens with carbon build up in any car.
Try CRC Intake Valve cleaner. It has an aerosol can so you don't have to go through all the BS with a roundup weed sprayer. And the heat soak is only an hour. 2 hours seems excessive as you want the engine to still has some heat left in it after the soak so the carbon breaks off the valves and intake ports when you drive it after the soak. 2 hours allows the engine to cool down too much. CRC is much better.
could you explain me WHy you don't use The normal method putting the liquimoly into the Fuel ? or is this method more direct in order to clean the valves ?
I believe in direct injection, fuel+the cleaner won't go through intake valve. Fuel will directly go to combustion chamber. For the cleaner to go through air intake, throttle body then valve.
It’s from Germany. They take their cars and products very seriously. Plus most of the auto shops over there use liqui moly. Seen some shops over there that, that is the only kind of oil and products in the shop.
have you tried the CRC Intake and Valve & turbo cleaner . I used it on my 07 Mini Cooper S (turbo) with 80,000 miles. went from 29 mpg to 41 mpg in a week. the stuff works on the engine over a 6-8 day period. I was so impressed I am going to us it on my F-150 soon.
thanks bro.....much appreciate your efforts my R56 turbo mini had the entire top end redone abt 15,0000km ago....they drink oil....'m doin this every month now on..
Pull the fuel rail with injectors and send the borescope through there. Injectors sit behind intake valve and spray into the combustion chamber for each cylinder
Hi,what about the catalizer convertor when you clean the carbon from the head cylinder valves ,may be the catalizer closed????????,thanks for your video
I have read on Audi forums that the carbon you’re burning off can clog up your catalytic converter or other components ..... I would be interested in using this product as a soak before a traditional carbon cleaning with brush / picks and rags
That small chunk must pass through piston ring, that won't make it a chunk. That said, some would advise to change engine oil after this kind of procedure.
It's supposed to mix with gasoline to give it better cleaning properties. The corrosiveness of the gasoline really helps, which is also why it states it doesn't really work on DI engines.
Look up how GDI engines work. You pour this into your gasoline for NON GDI engines, because the gas and this mixture sprays onto the valves, which cleans and maintains the corrosion on the valves on NON GDI engines. On GDI engines, the fuel is sprayed into the cylinder, so you have to spray this into the intake in order for it to actually hit the valves to clean them. Therefore, what he is doing is correct.
uhh, they still super dirty, I'd call that a mild improvement at best. If you're squirting directly into the intake, you might have well of just took the manifold off and dumped the cleaner into the closed valves to let it soak for a bit and suck it out
What happens to carbon chunks that break loose and fly inside combustion chamber? They should be hard. What will happen if one will stuck between valve and port?
Considering you used the gasoline valve cleaner that is supposed to go IN the fuel and not the Proline liquid we use in our Jet clean Tronic it is an amazing result.
No, he is a certified idiot. You put this in the TANK, like it even says in his own video, in the usage directions. What do you think that long. screw-on nozzle is for?! He screws it on to put it in to his pressure can, what a tool... Actually, you are supposed to put in every time when fuelling up. Also, this is the only way it could actually clean the entire fuel system. Liqui Moli say that their fuel system cleaner product is much more thorough than the valve cleaner though.
He wanted to apply the product to the valves in a DIRECT inyection engine. If he used the product in the gas tank it wouldn't be applied to the valves, as the gasoline would have went directly to the cylinders, not touching the intake port nor the upper part of the intake valve. He's not a certified idiot, he was trying to test it in a different application, using the nozzle would "emulate" having injectors spraying the product to the back of the valves. So, is a "certified idiot" a person who understands the core concepts of a subject and use them like he does, or someone who has no idea what is he talking about but still insults people with a comment on TH-cam?
@@Baerchenization putting it into the tank does nothing for the valves on a direct injection engine. Unless they have an extra nozzle in the intake manifold, but if that was the case, this wouldn't be happening
@@XStuntManiacThanks for the reply. But in some cars like new Mazda when you disconnect the Main Air Flow sensor in order to avoid those valve cleaner get into it, the car's engine light will be on and you have to ask dealership to connect a laptop to the car in order to cancel the error code to switch off the engine light.
@@FeelFree3 Yeah, check engine light cam occur if you do something that wasn't "expected" by the engine, and that's only normal. So if you want to avoid it, you can just spray it anywhere, as long as it goes straight into intake manifold.
Liqui Moly has a cleaner to be used like this Throttle Valve Cleaner 5111, would be interesting if the older "Valve Clean" you used is more or less effective then that. - For a product you can use without a lot of demontage you can actually prevent massive gunk buildup with that.
Worked really good, although I was surprised you left it at one low steady RPM from start to finish, a lot of other products call for very variations in the RPMs, due to the fact higher RPMs blow out more carbon. What's your thoughts on this?
This is why you shouldn't do long term oil change intervals on gdi engines that don't have secondary injection to prevent deposits. Use a high quality low NOACK full synthetic oil and change it often (3-5k miles). Also use Top Tier premium fuel (better additive packages). Spark plug changes early also (every 35-45k miles). These will help prevent carbon buildup.
All engines i change soon because manufacturer's can make mistakes during manufacturer plus the oil may last however if its contaminated from worn parts fuel etc. Then a oil change is inexpensive in my opinion and i use quality oil. I drive 2 hours daily still change every 3000
For more information on liqui moly check out the link below amzn.to/2vZFV3e
You should use a little bit of bio desiel. I worked at a plant that made bio disiel and let me tell you it is the best cleaning agent I ever came across
Thanks
@@brentthedetailman2228 You mean use Bio-diesel to spray into it directly? Or mix 2-3oz into that can of liqui moly?
Idk that part still needs to be figured out lol
I do know that bio diesel is so strong it would eat the rubber from my boots and when put into a diesel tank with 100% bio diesel it will clog the filter at least twice because it cleans everything. I've put a Mason jar into my gas tank before with no problems but never tested it to see if it cleaned anything.
Liqui Moly makes great products. I have used the engine flush in 2 of my Subaru's (one has 115,000 the other 195,000). What a difference! Idle quality very much improved, engines much , much smoother and noticable reduction in engine noise. Their injection cleaner works well too.
Thanks I was concerned cause most people say those products are damaging cars by causing blockages in channels where fluids move
Scotty said so
LiquiMoly fuel system cleaner saved me about $2600 on a Lexus gs300 in which the idle control valve was glogged and stocking. In the end I went overboard and bought six cans over two months. Yep, $180 and the car has never run with more power. Absolutely a fan.
you can unbolt IAC valve and clean it for 1$ lol
@@Techie1224 and if you want to be fancy, you can buy a can of carby cleaner for $5. Taking it off and cleaning is a 2 minute job and you're guaranteed its clean.
@@Techie1224what is IAC valve?
@@luisponce1472
google it
@@luisponce1472 idle air control valve
I always do these cleanings with load in the engine. Like cruising in a Road. I use the windshield washer plumbing to do it. With heat and pressure and rpms the temperature goes up and the dispersants get way more efficient. I use ethanol mixed with water and go ridding hard and injecting it to the best distribution intake manifold ports. It doesn't hurt any sensors or Catalist, just clean them real good.
Damn man thats genius
It took me awhile to understand what you mean but now I get it and your comment should be a highlighted.
@Hagbard Celine Yeah, thanks brothers! I Appreaciated those.
Make a video of how to do it.
How much mixture of water and ethanol? 50:50?
I love liqui moly products. One piece of advice for next time and others out there going to do this. make sure you spray any liquids after the MAF sensor. I'm an ex mechanic and have seen the affects of when the liquids damage the sensor. Using proper MAF sensor cleaner is advised.
Just got done with mine. Ran 1 bottle through the TB like you did and 1 bottle through the vacuum line of the break booster. 90 min heatsoak and 30 min highway speed and repeated the same procedure one more time. I know a little of an overkill, but noticable difference in how smooth the power comes on. LM is cheap compared to CRC. Also replaced 500ml of the motor oil with seafoam before the start.
I used this in my 85 honda that was barely failing smog and it brought it up 20 points!! Use it periodically in all of my old cars
For sure this is one that work and its clearly visible. Most do not. Thanks.
Another vw scandal lmao 😂
Great to know you listen to all the suggestions you get, great job modifying the accent, keep improving. Thank you for taking my advice about the catchphrase. Still waiting for the next round in the oil tournament.
Im hoping that will be finished today
3:26 - "Don't reach your hands in 'round these belts, like this...AAAAHHHH SHIT, MAH HAND!!!!!"
To clean the intakes search for a specialized (!) blast cleaning service who uses walnut grit. This is about 300€, but the intakes would look like new. Can rise 20-30 PS. Install a oil catch can (OCC) after that to prevent condensing oil damps on the cooler intake valves.
Seriously thinking about installing a throttle body spacer with a feeding port. Somehow installing a pressurized cylinder that can be activated by the driver similar to the meth kits. Constantly being able to feed a bottle through before turning off the car.
Wow. Impressive. I didn't think you could clean out the valves with a cleaner like that, especially on a gdi motor. I have an 06 vw passat, 2.0t with a 140000 mi on it. Might be worth to try it out. Thanks.
if youre in the states, check out STP pro-series intake valve cleaner.
I used to remove carbon build up in the 70's by using just plain tap water run through a small vacuum port on the intake after warming the engine to operating temp and driving the car with it connected. It always worked great and wouldn't hurt the engine because it was only connected briefly.
Driving in heavy rains at good throttle to o works removing air filter is necessary though .
Also, the problem is what that carbon can do to your piston rings as that cleaner dissolves and chunks of that carbon drops into the combustion chamber. It can rip your piston rings and cause engine failure folks. I'm a 27 year mechanic.
It also works with going a long distance with a high rpm - min one hour at 4-5k rpm on diesel - 6-8k rpm on esence. the enduring high temperature at the exhaustsystem will burn most oilcoal on valves, collector, and exhaustepipes... sometimes it causes black dust out of the pipes - that's when it works...
Just used this on my 2013 Elantra limited. We will see how it works. Only has 60k on it but the valve train is noisy sometimes even when up to operating temperature. The used car dealer I bought it from said they have some noise when cold so fingers crossed I have similar results although I don’t have a borescope to check I’ll see if I notice any driving improvements. Thanks for the great video ! Now to let this thing heat soak ! 👍
any updates??
But only on port injected. Right?
grazie tante per il video, lo ho applicato e ha ripristinato le valvole chiuse, molto bene questo prodotto, lo raccomando
Won't this procedure damage the Mass Airflow Sensor?
Liquimoly works great, put some additive in my fuel for a diesel engine and now it just feels and sounds so much better. No more knocking!
What is the different betwen liqui moly valve cleaner and liqui moly injector cleaner..looks like they do the same job cleaning the fuel system..
We put the injector cleaner in the gas tank, easier to use but if your engine is direct injection, it won't help to clean the intake valve.
Don´t forget, never spray any chemicals in the front of a maf sensor ...... better you buy a valve-protect system like the flashlube system for lpg cars. During you drive the direct-injection car , the system will clean your intakevalves smoothly.
I find it interesting that every product is tested on the same car. I wonder how fast do those valves get dirty or how honest these videos are
I own a Veloster, and I can tell you from experience, it is an uphill battle to keep the engine clean! I think part of the problem with that engine in particular is the piston rings getting stuck, which then leads to TONS of blow-by, which then ends up back on the valves forming carbon, which never get cleaned bc of how it's built.
I just added a catch can in mine after learning the hard way about all this stuff.... My car just stopped running bc of carbon. They media blasted it at 115k, and I'm now at 121k.
Using a bore scope, I looked in the cylinders before doing a piston ring soak with Berryman's B12 ChemTool... TOTALLY caked with carbon deposits!!!
I was SO mad!
IMO, this is likely the best car to use for videos on how to remove carbon - it is just SO prone to creating it in such a short amount of time!
In this video you can even see where the catch can is already added in the engine bay - its the gold colored metal box on the passenger side of the car.
This is true. Check the channel. This video makes no sence. He use like 8 valve cleaners before this one on that same motor jaja
Does all the broken down carbon not go into the cylinder bore and through the turbo and do damage?
Itl come out the exhaust probably won’t damage anything
@@jordan_.zx10r it will get stuck in the catalytic converter and you will need to replace thid expendive part prematurly.
Den Niero cat delete ;)
@@denniero6904 the catalyst will be that hot that it eventually burn away
no it wont cause damage. it will burn away
Wow, will probably just add it to my fuel tank instead of this method, but sure is nice to know that it actually works this well before spending the coin. Thanks for uploading
If you own a direct injection car, it wont work by adding it to the fuel tank because direct injection doesn't spray fuel directly onto the intake valves so the cleaner won't ever make it onto the intake valves.
@@jetblackcoopers so should i spray this thru the manifold?
@@RA82828 thanks for the heads up. I didn’t end up doing it
liquimoly valve clean comes in a much smaller can, but is also much cheaper here in Europe. Makes you wonder whether using a full can of CRC is necessary per treatment. I will do regular treatment using 1-2 cans of liquimoly. A smaller dose, means less liquid in the engine at any given time. I found using CRC some of it got stuck in the intake mainfold or pieces (*of carbon deposits) came off, because my engine misfired (I accelerated to suddenly) don't do that. Maybe should let it soak a bit longer when using more or drive more carefully.
How many miles did you drive after the spray before you took the pictures of the cleaner valves ?
this is a crapy product that don`t give any result,. it`s all a big lie
@@kavajamusic5411 anything for promotion ..lol
@@kavajamusic5411 prove it! Please provide your experiment and results!
Hey Nate, I have a question for you. I have just done this on my 2008 Volkswagen Jetta with the FSI direct injection motor. I ran about four cans of this product through the intake where the PCV valve hose connects. Tons of white smoke poured out and then by the fourth can the smoke head cleared, but my question is, how often can I do this?
Will overdoing it be problematic for any seals ?
I'm impressed. I'm going to try this on my 06' Lexus 430.
What do the exhaust valves look like? wouldn't they take the carbon from the intake carbon?
what does this do the catalytic converters?
if the engine is dirty burned oils and much carbons then this procces will take all the dirt to the catalyc converter and then you will need to clean it manually
I have been doing this to fleet vehicles for a while Just use water poke 2 small holes in a water bottle cap I use 2 bottles and with a hot engine rev the engine to different rpm no steady rpm and spray water in the carb or throttlebody I have done multiple treatments over the years and even pulled the engines out after and they have come out cleaner that that
Its Always better to take out the Intake manifold and soak the valves in the Liquid, then clean them manually with a brush and comoressed air.
I don't know if I believe the before and after photos the picture on the left looks too extreme and I also noticed the posters responses are selective to the people who comment about how great this product is vs many other posts that had good questions that he does not answer
I used CRC and had great results. Looked like my exhaust tips had a vape blowing clouds out them😂
Thanks man! Folks swear by their oil. I've used some of their other cleaning products. I"ll try this one next.
Nice performance from this product. But...
The detached particles from the carbon deposits where they are gone? to the cylinder? to the catalytic converter? to the particulate filter?...
Presumably they dissolve and perhaps abrate, enter the cylinder and (hopefully) exit via the exhaust. It is possible for them to get caught in either the cat' or the silencer baffles though but that happens with carbon build up in any car.
You should do it again after a few days and see if there is another improvement!!
That’s been the best spray/liquid valve cleaner I’ve ever seen.
Yes i definitely agree finally some good results
NATES INTERACTIVE AUTO you must've check Soft99 G'Zox Injection & carb cleaner
Forte valve cleaner is the best
How long have you used it?
Try CRC Intake Valve cleaner. It has an aerosol can so you don't have to go through all the BS with a roundup weed sprayer. And the heat soak is only an hour. 2 hours seems excessive as you want the engine to still has some heat left in it after the soak so the carbon breaks off the valves and intake ports when you drive it after the soak. 2 hours allows the engine to cool down too much. CRC is much better.
could you explain me WHy you don't use The normal method putting the liquimoly into the Fuel ?
or is this method more direct in order to clean the valves ?
I believe in direct injection, fuel+the cleaner won't go through intake valve. Fuel will directly go to combustion chamber.
For the cleaner to go through air intake, throttle body then valve.
Can you do it multiple time back to back consider the time and driving requirements? Ty
It’s from Germany. They take their cars and products very seriously. Plus most of the auto shops over there use liqui moly. Seen some shops over there that, that is the only kind of oil and products in the shop.
Very high quality im a believer
Really😂😂 nehhh
have you tried the CRC Intake and Valve & turbo cleaner . I used it on my 07 Mini Cooper S (turbo) with 80,000 miles. went from 29 mpg to 41 mpg in a week. the stuff works on the engine over a 6-8 day period. I was so impressed I am going to us it on my F-150 soon.
Yes check out my videos on crc
Very important to change the oil after that procedure.
What's the relationship between oil change and valve cleaning through intake system?
@@mundo6454 where you think all that sh*t will end up?
@@ponchoiram4237 in the mother nature?...by exhaust...
I have of rest of Roundup in my bottle - will it be ok tu use it together ?
🤣 works best if you stand right behind the exhaust while you spray it.
I wonder if this product can also clean off the carbon from O₂ sensors.
thanks bro.....much appreciate your efforts my R56 turbo mini had the entire top end redone abt 15,0000km ago....they drink oil....'m doin this every month now on..
This is the best I've seen so far. Very good product. 😊👍
Yes finally good results and thanks
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO You're Welcome 😊
Any future ideas lets us know
@@NATESINTERACTIVEAUTO I'll do 👍
Awesome
Can you use this product wash any throttle body?
Could you show how and where you put the borescope in to view the valves. I have a 2016 elantra and the engine looks very similar.
Veloster here
Probably take engine cover off and remove a spark plug to see valve. Just my guess though.
Take the intake manifold off or run it through the intake manifold
Pull the fuel rail with injectors and send the borescope through there. Injectors sit behind intake valve and spray into the combustion chamber for each cylinder
@@mikehigby7897 try again , please this is a GDI engine..not a port injection engine... take care
But the injector ? If you put in air arrive in injector or not?
Hi,what about the catalizer convertor when you clean the carbon from the head cylinder valves ,may be the catalizer closed????????,thanks for your video
I wish you would have shown more footage of you squirting the fluid down the air intake it was facinating.
I have read on Audi forums that the carbon you’re burning off can clog up your catalytic converter or other components ..... I would be interested in using this product as a soak before a traditional carbon cleaning with brush / picks and rags
Does catalytic converter serviceable
If something clog catalytic converter it's lack of airfilter and Sparks plugs change.
Depending on where the sensor is, it's dangerous to put you cleaner from where the air filter sits.
I'm just wondering what if a small chunk of the hard carbon get into the engine???? Is that possible?
That small chunk must pass through piston ring, that won't make it a chunk.
That said, some would advise to change engine oil after this kind of procedure.
It's supposed to mix with gasoline to give it better cleaning properties. The corrosiveness of the gasoline really helps, which is also why it states it doesn't really work on DI engines.
Look up how GDI engines work. You pour this into your gasoline for NON GDI engines, because the gas and this mixture sprays onto the valves, which cleans and maintains the corrosion on the valves on NON GDI engines. On GDI engines, the fuel is sprayed into the cylinder, so you have to spray this into the intake in order for it to actually hit the valves to clean them. Therefore, what he is doing is correct.
guys, is it normal kinda white smoke escapes while applying?
I wonder…. Does this effect the gasket seals at all? Some old engines are gunk sealed.
Clean the gunk… you got an oil leak.
Ive used engine flush in 05 corolla followed by 2 oil changes. Unbelievable difference
uhh, they still super dirty, I'd call that a mild improvement at best. If you're squirting directly into the intake, you might have well of just took the manifold off and dumped the cleaner into the closed valves to let it soak for a bit and suck it out
I know it's not recommended to put in your transmission if it's automatic but can you still add it to your motor oil if it's an automatic?
What happens to carbon chunks that break loose and fly inside combustion chamber? They should be hard. What will happen if one will stuck between valve and port?
You found out yet?
A motor beszívta ezt a rengeteg kokszot? Bravo!
Considering you used the gasoline valve cleaner that is supposed to go IN the fuel and not the Proline liquid we use in our Jet clean Tronic it is an amazing result.
I’ll look into that but looks expensive
@@mcroadracer1 6€ 150ml
It says on the can to add it into fuel tank.
Would it have thae same results by following the can instructions?
Worked pretty good. Keep up the tests! Thanks.
Thanks im excited after that one finally
I'm not sure.
So, do you have to make sure to spray the solution pass the MAF and straight onto the throttle body?
No, he is a certified idiot. You put this in the TANK, like it even says in his own video, in the usage directions. What do you think that long. screw-on nozzle is for?! He screws it on to put it in to his pressure can, what a tool... Actually, you are supposed to put in every time when fuelling up. Also, this is the only way it could actually clean the entire fuel system. Liqui Moli say that their fuel system cleaner product is much more thorough than the valve cleaner though.
He wanted to apply the product to the valves in a DIRECT inyection engine. If he used the product in the gas tank it wouldn't be applied to the valves, as the gasoline would have went directly to the cylinders, not touching the intake port nor the upper part of the intake valve.
He's not a certified idiot, he was trying to test it in a different application, using the nozzle would "emulate" having injectors spraying the product to the back of the valves.
So, is a "certified idiot" a person who understands the core concepts of a subject and use them like he does, or someone who has no idea what is he talking about but still insults people with a comment on TH-cam?
@@Baerchenization putting it into the tank does nothing for the valves on a direct injection engine. Unless they have an extra nozzle in the intake manifold, but if that was the case, this wouldn't be happening
Thanks for all your work on this.
Thank you for watching its time we finally found a cleaner that works
Can we clean every month ?
Is that safe to do with the mass air flow in line?
That is a main problem with direct gasoline injection gdi ..its get dirty in remarkable manner all over a fiting chamber.
Can I put it in the fuel tank?
Wsa there much smoke coming out the exhaust from the carbon?
Where this all dirt goes when cleaning ?
They get burnt off.
I'm surprised there was no warning about not spraying the mass airflow sensor.
Could Liqui Moly affect head gasket and piston rings?.
Difenetly no! It's made in Germany and its has been tested for that
Did you mix that with water?
Got question do you spray it to egr valve? And then it goes through valves?
What is the difference that you noticed.
I have a 2005 Audi A4 3.0 V6. Is it a GDI engine and will liquid Molly work good for it? Trying to ask & find out. Thanks
I saw other video by experienced mechanic he did that differently, he sprayed it into the VACUUM LINE.
That actually doesn't matter until it goes straight into the intake manifold and can be spreaded there so every valve can get some.
@@XStuntManiacThanks for the reply. But in some cars like new Mazda when you disconnect the Main Air Flow sensor in order to avoid those valve cleaner get into it, the car's engine light will be on and you have to ask dealership to connect a laptop to the car in order to cancel the error code to switch off the engine light.
@@FeelFree3 Yeah, check engine light cam occur if you do something that wasn't "expected" by the engine, and that's only normal. So if you want to avoid it, you can just spray it anywhere, as long as it goes straight into intake manifold.
Thanks! We still waiting for GDI turbo engines how we can spray these kind of products, like a Hyundai santa fe o Sonara 2.0t 2013 and beyond
Vacuum line or if you can access the intake in a area to disassemble but follow manufacturer's instructions im required to let you know
Idling like this, there´s no difference. But running is another animal
Thanks for watching
Хуйндаи это не машина ..
Have you tried doing this with the sea foam in a can?
can you please test mopar combustion chamber cleaner?
Will it damage the mas air flow sensor?
Can i put it in the tank ?? I have direct injection car
how did you get that borescope view?
Thanks Nate the Great. I’ll try that this coming weekend
Where do you put boroscope in without removing intake manifold?
I use a port if you can find one for your borescope to fit inside however its very hard to reach all of the valves.
Why not after throttle body? Why?
What you had in that sprayer? the product is only 150ML witch is like a regular glass of water.
have you try the CRC valve cleaner?
nice clip and good to know it's working. One question. What was the mileage when this was performed? and had you done before? thanks in advance.
Is this better than stp fuel system cleaner?
Liqui Moly has a cleaner to be used like this Throttle Valve Cleaner 5111, would be interesting if the older "Valve Clean" you used is more or less effective then that. - For a product you can use without a lot of demontage you can actually prevent massive gunk buildup with that.
That is a cleaner for the throttle body, the 5111, not for the intake valve.
Hi Nate, would you recommend the Liqui Moly over the CRC intake valve cleaner? Or would you recommend CRC
Worked really good, although I was surprised you left it at one low steady RPM from start to finish, a lot of other products call for very variations in the RPMs, due to the fact higher RPMs blow out more carbon. What's your thoughts on this?
This is why you shouldn't do long term oil change intervals on gdi engines that don't have secondary injection to prevent deposits. Use a high quality low NOACK full synthetic oil and change it often (3-5k miles). Also use Top Tier premium fuel (better additive packages). Spark plug changes early also (every 35-45k miles). These will help prevent carbon buildup.
All engines i change soon because manufacturer's can make mistakes during manufacturer plus the oil may last however if its contaminated from worn parts fuel etc. Then a oil change is inexpensive in my opinion and i use quality oil. I drive 2 hours daily still change every 3000
Is it use only German car or every car?