I’m glad you’re happy with what you got :) I remember your 150cc scooter videos is the reason I bought my very own 150cc scooter and now you’re starting to make me wanna get a kick scooter as well lol
I've been using A5 Air for commuting since 2019, and here are some of my thoughts/experiences: - The biggest problem was frequent rear tube punctures. Maybe once or twice a month. For commuting to work, that was a bit of an issue, so I fixed it by replacing just the rear tire with a solid wheel, while keeping the pneumatic front wheel, since it didn't cause problems (got only one puncture since 2019!) - This gives me the best of both worlds, for the most part... it's loud because of the solid rear wheel, and you get slightly more vibrations than you'd get on two pneumatic tires, but the ride is still very comfortable, the front tire has excellent grip even on wet and slippery surfaces (wet autumn leaves on the road - my shoes would slip but the wheel didn't) - over the years, I did have a few falls - one at night when I didn't notice a pothole in time, one on a pavement where tiles were extremely uneven, and my most recent one when I finally got a front tube puncture (a tiny screw lying on the road, like a caltrop!), but other than that, the low deck didn't cause me problems - as said, it's about learning to pull the front wheel up right before obstacles - breaking when the wheel is wet is indeed very slow, no matter how hard you push on the rear fender, you feel like it's not doing anything. However, this has never caused me problems - when you need to break hard, you break with your foot on the ground, or both. The rear fender is more for slowing down than for breaking, e.g. to keep a steady speed when going downhill, and when the tire is wet, that's exactly what happens - it won't decelerate you, but it will prevent acceleration when you push hard enough. I've not noticed any major difference here between the pneumatic and the solid wheel. - overall it's not the fastest kick scooter, but you're trading speed for comfort and better tire grip - I went for pneumatic tires for the extra safety they provide on slippery surfaces, and indeed, I've never had the pneumatic tires lose grip and slide. This is important since I still wanted to commute on the scooter no matter the weather. I was also hoping the pneumatic tire would allow me to travel through old paving stones, but... only some are traversable, and even then it's not great. - For me, average speed tends to be somewhere in the 12-15 km/h range, with top speeds on level ground in the 18-20 km/h range. The 6 km commute to work is not bad. Longest distances I've done in a single day were around 25 km, but I've only done it twice, to challenge myself (and save on train tickets xD ). - over time, I've added a few necessary accessories to the scooter - a bell and lights, obviously, a front bag where I keep water, a spare tube and 'bicycle' tools, and a smaller bag that I put on the opposite side, where I keep a chain to secure the scooter (I need to wrap it twice around the part where the folding mechanism is, to keep it somewhat secure). Still, useful for 2-minute errands, so I don't need to take the scooter to a pharmacy or something. - oh, and one other observation - when it's cold outside, the pressure drop in the tires is very noticeable as you ride. After 10 minutes of riding, you feel sluggish and lose speed quickly because of the lower pressure of cold air. I guess you could circumvent it by pumping the wheel to the correct pressure outside in the cold, or by overdoing it 'at home'. Just keep it in mind when taking the wheel back into a warm room. It probably won't burst, but it's better not to try your luck ;)
Ok. Do you use tyre sealant? I bought an A5 Air for safety because my A5 hard-tyre went too fast and was risky on poor pavements but the A5 Air is not as much fun (sluggish) as the hard-tyre. It's ok but I keep it for rainy days.
@@MarkCollins-d6g I don't, although I considered doing it before I switched the rear tyre to a solid PU one. I asked my friend (who runs a bicycle repair shop and is an avid downhill rider) for advice, and he was generally against using tyre sealants as 'they can make a mess', and are not easy to clean up after the sealant goes on your clothes, floor etc. My current setup changed a bit however, as my front tyre was quite worn out and as I was too slow to replace it, it eventually caused a front tube rupture (at home, I returned from a ride and maybe half an hour later I heard an 'explosion' - I guess the warmer air inside heated up the tube rising the pressure to a point it couldn't handle). So I looked at buying a new tyre. My initial plan was to buy one from Razor, as I presume not many places sell 200x50 pneumatic tyres that are actually optimized for scooters (most tyres of these dimensions seem to be optimized for wheelchairs and strollers), but I decided to also buy a solid 200x50 wheelchair tyre as a spare wheel. But, I tried riding with the solid tyre at the front, just to see how it differs from the pneumatic tyre, and actually there wasn't much of a difference, so that became my new default setup. So now I have two solid tyres, front one is a wheelchair 'hard rubber' tyre that looks very similar to a pneumatic tyre, same shape and width, apart from the tread that is simply a pattern of straight parallel lines. I would prefer a more 'grippy' tread for e.g. autumn when there are wet leaves on the paths, but sadly affordable wheelchair wheels don't seem to offer that as an option ;) Whereas the rear wheel is a PU scooter wheel, "RAVEN Straight Black 200mm" to be exact. So the scooter still looks a little silly, with mismatched wheels. I was initially worried this setup would be less comfortable to ride and less safe than having at least a pneumatic front tyre, but so far I've not noticed any such problems, and I actually like the much more consistent riding experience. The pneumatic tyre felt quite inconsistent as the air temperature - and thus pressure - changes during a ride, becoming either hotter if outside tempereture is hotter than indoors, or colder if riding in winter, so if I pumped up the tyre to the recommended 60 PSI at home, the pressure would feel off by the end of a ride. As I often ride in cold weather 0-5 Celsius, it would be underpressurized and very sluggish near the end. The alternative would be to pump up the tyre outdoors, or to guesstimate the correct pressure based on outside temperature and either underpressurize or overpressurize the tube at home, but... after the last explosive rupture, I'd rather not. So I guess solid tyres may actually be safer in the end, being both more consistent, and saving me from accidents that would have been caused by a tyre puncture. So far I've experienced 3 falls while riding, 2 during the first year, and the third a few years later, and that last one was caused by the front wheel puncture (by a tiny wood screw that went into the tyre like a caltrop), which probably wouldn't have happened if I had my current setup.
@@MarkCollins-d6g Yeah it works well actually. Never mind mr bike shop fred over there, roadies are whiney and not very smart. Just don't use the whole bottle since the wheels are small, only need a little bit in each tube. No mess, easily water soluble. Cyclists just need to find a reason to complain about everything and do things the nonsensical way.
I am a lifelong cyclist who just recently got interested in scooting. I live in Acadia National Park here in Maine and as the park has 50+ miles of beautifully surfaced gravel carriage paths I wanted something that could handle unpaved surfaces. After doing my homework I settled upon the Razor A5 Air. First impressions are mixed. Like the lady who wrote this review I've found the A5 Air really smooths out the cracks and minor bumps on paved surfaces. Difference between riding an all out racing bike with 110 lb narrow tires and a mountain bike in terms of smoothness and vibration free riding. Alas this comes at a cost of increased push effort and very decreased glide between kicks. On even slight uphills it sometimes almost feels like you are dragging an anchor. The other negative here in Maine is what we call frost heaves. Bubble like humps in the paved surface caused by frost in the ground these little buggers are a bit like moguls on downhill ski slopes. In short you can't bunny hop over them because they are too wide. When I come to one of these I either have to go round it or else hop off and carry over it. One thing I really noticed in this video is the amount of spin generated when the wheel is spun by hand. My A5 Air only has 10 miles on it thus far so the bearings may not be broken in but when I spin the wheels I am lucky to get 7" of rotation. I am a pretty decent bicycle mechanic but near as I can tell there is no way to adjust these bearings so I will just have to see if they free up some with use. If not I'll probably buy a set of Bones Reds and see if that improves performance. Anyway if you are looking for a scooter that delivers a safe , smooth, quiet ride you should check out the Razor A5 Air. But just be aware of the need for increased push effort, slower speeds, and low ground clearance. Whoops, almost forgot to mention tire inflation. As pointed out in this review getting air into these tires can present some problems. Although the tubes have angled valve stems that help, angles and clearances do make getting the pump head on, and getting it to stay on, challenging. Part of the blame for this is the large size and rather poor design of the heads on most bicycle pumps. Schrader valves make the problem more difficult as Presta valves are much easier to attach a pump to. I'm fortunate to have a home air compressor with the small pump head and this makes inflating these tires a snap. If you find the hand or foot bicycle pump method a pain you can buy a steel tank with air hose that can be inflated with something like 180lbs of air at a gas station and then used at home. Cost is less $50 and it would be well worth it!
I found out some time after this video that loosening the wheel nuts allowed the tires to rotate freely. Over time I've been trying to figure out if this actually helps in the real world, if it rolls me farther per kick etc, but I haven't been able to come to any conclusion! I keep getting mixed results or at least results that aren't big enough to be able to tell for sure. The definite downside to doing this other than the thought of loose nuts being scary, is the tires will have play and it vibrates; it makes the appeal of a sturdy and smooth scooter feel a lot..less of those things.
You're right about the hills drastically affecting it. Slight downhills feels amazing (and easily can get scary if it's more downhill than that), while uphills (to me at least) are a deal breaker, even the slightest uphills drastically affect it. I imagine this happening with any scooter or skateboard, something that doesn't have the constant forward push like a bicycle does with pedals. I find even just going a mile has me questioning whether I should take the bicycle instead. A thing about filling up this scooter's tires I noticed is if I fill it up to 60PSI as it wants, just that tiny bit of air that shoots out when detaching the pump is enough to set it back to 52PSI or so! So I end up having to overfill it so it will end up on 60 after the detach. I just hope it never pops doing this!
RosieMoto Loosening the wheel mounting screws should not allow the wheels to rotate more freely. Without a drawing it's kind of hard to explain why but I'll give it a shot. On the A5 Air wheels there is a central axle that runs through the inner race of the wheel bearings. That axle is fastened to the scooter's frame with 2 screws that threaded into that axle, one on the left side, one on the right side. Before threading the screws into the axle they are passed through a short spacer on each side. The job of these spacers is to center the wheel between the frame. As the screws holding the wheel to the frame are tightened they force these two spacers up against the outer face of the inner bearing race. When fully tightened these screws can not effect how freely the wheels spin because the inner bearing race they tighten against does not itself rotate but rather is held rigidly in place with the bearings and outer race spinning around it. It might be possible for a bent or malformed central axle to be effecting the spin if the wheel mounting screws are fully tightened or it might be that a misaligned frame member might be effecting free movement of the wheel. All this said I'd be very hesitant to loosen the wheel mounting screws very much as this might result in a wheel falling off! Not a fun moment if traveling at speed!
I'm a cyclist too but since I discovered kick scooters my three (expensive) bikes have been gathering dust. Bikes can be exhilarating because they go fast but kick scooters are so leisurely and relaxing, particularly if you have no particular destination you want to reach. The two machines offer different experiences. Scooters should not be used for uphill travelling (or downhill for that matter). They are for level surfaces. Well that's what I think.
A post script on inflating the tires on the A5 Air: The solution I came up with was 1 1/4" valve extenders manufactured by Slime a company specializing in bicycle tire tubes. These extenders came in a pack of 4 and cost just a bit over $5 at Tractor Supply. They are also available on Amazon and elsewhere. There seems to be lot of confusion over how these extenders work so I'll explain. On one end of the extender there is a threaded female fitting, on the opposite end there is a threaded male fitting. To install the extender on the A5 Air tube you first remove the plastic dust cap from the tire's valve stem. Using the end of the extender with the female (internal) threads you now screw the extender onto the tires valve stem. This is easily done on the front tire but because of clearance problems it can be a bit tricky on the rear tire. The extender must be reasonably tight or it will leak air when you begin pumping air into the tire. I had a hard time getting it tight with my fingers on the rear tire so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to snug it up. Once the extender is installed look at the end you attach the pump to and you will see it has a spherical check valve. This allows you to pump air into the tire but prevents the air from leaking back out when the pump is removed. To insert air you attach the bicycle pump head to the valve extender. Push the head on firmly and then actuate the head's lock lever. This prevents the head from disconnecting when you start pumping...on most pumps you flip the lever up to lock it, on some you flip it down. Check your pump manual online for directions or just experiment to find which position works. Now comes the kind of tricky part. Both my floor pump and the small hand pump I carry while scooting are manufactured by Topeak and both are equipped with pressure gauges. For some reason when I start pumping the gauge immediately shoots up to 100 lbs or more and then slowly declines. My guess is that it takes a lot of pressure to open the spherical valve in the valve extender and let air into the tire. Whatever the reason the result is it's difficult to get an accurate pressure reading from the gauge on the pump. So what I do is pump until the tire is really hard and then remove the pump head and take a pressure reading with my hand held tire pressure gauge. If I have overinflated the tire I depress the spherical valve in the valve extender, let out a bit of air and then using my hand held pressure gauge take another measurement. When the tire is inflated to 60 lbs I remove the valve extender, reattach the dust cap and repeat the process on the other tire. I know this sounds complicated but it's really not. I can top off the pressure in both tires in 3 to 4 minutes. As to whether or not to remove the valve extenders when done inflating the tires you really should remove them as they stick out far enough to hit the frame on the rear tire and may slowly leak air if left on on the front tire.
I've been using a rubber valve extender, cost me maybe $3, works like charm. I've had another issue though - since over the years of using A5 air, I've got many tube punctures, I've been buying new tubes - and it seems wheelchair tubes are the perfect size, yet cheaper, so that's what I've been buying. There's just one issue - sometimes, they have the valve angled not at 45 degrees like the original tubes, but perpendicular... and these stick out too much from the wheel, causing the dust cap or the valve itself to hit the fork. It's tricky to work around this, so it's best to make sure to only buy tubes that have valves angled to one side.
There is a long video by Have A Nice Ride, where he compared the A5 Sir to the solid tired A6. He talks about the bottoming problem with the A5 Air, and shows how he did the little front wheel hop that you mention. He seems to prefer the A5 Air to the A6. The A6 has 10" solid tires, and is faster than the Air, but the Air gives a better ride. Is it a bit hard to air the tires on your A5 Air? Some electrocardiogram have stubby shortfalls stems, and are very hard to get the tire pump attached right. They make tire valve extenders that makes the job much easier.
It's not as hard as I was expecting. I use my index finger to bend the valve just enough and hold it there while I put on the air pump with a combination of both hands and other fingers. Only takes about 5 secs to get it on total so not too bad.
Yooo this thing makes the kids scooter look itty bitty. It's good that it can make it thru the cracks but tbh I hadn't even considered the breaks. I wonder if u went fast enough on a wet road if you could hydro plane haha that would seem fun/ a lil scary..glad you like it thus far! It looks awesome!
I really don't like this fender brake Razor is using on most of their scooter line. It's difficult to use repeatedly on a long ride and not intuitive. Not to mention riding downhill or if you happen to ride with your feet sitting parallel. I understand it cuts costs, but a handle brake it's just great and it ads what, $10 to production costs ? Razor has handle brake on their electric E series and it works just great. However the other of their electric line-up still have this cheap fender foot brake.
Hi ! i know its an old video but i have some questions ! So basically im planning to buy a electric scooter with my dad for cheap for high school and im looking for this for awhile,and basically my question is that how big is the handle bar height? because im arond 150-153 centimeters ty
Such a soothing voice
I’m glad you’re happy with what you got :) I remember your 150cc scooter videos is the reason I bought my very own 150cc scooter and now you’re starting to make me wanna get a kick scooter as well lol
I've been using A5 Air for commuting since 2019, and here are some of my thoughts/experiences:
- The biggest problem was frequent rear tube punctures. Maybe once or twice a month. For commuting to work, that was a bit of an issue, so I fixed it by replacing just the rear tire with a solid wheel, while keeping the pneumatic front wheel, since it didn't cause problems (got only one puncture since 2019!)
- This gives me the best of both worlds, for the most part... it's loud because of the solid rear wheel, and you get slightly more vibrations than you'd get on two pneumatic tires, but the ride is still very comfortable, the front tire has excellent grip even on wet and slippery surfaces (wet autumn leaves on the road - my shoes would slip but the wheel didn't)
- over the years, I did have a few falls - one at night when I didn't notice a pothole in time, one on a pavement where tiles were extremely uneven, and my most recent one when I finally got a front tube puncture (a tiny screw lying on the road, like a caltrop!), but other than that, the low deck didn't cause me problems - as said, it's about learning to pull the front wheel up right before obstacles
- breaking when the wheel is wet is indeed very slow, no matter how hard you push on the rear fender, you feel like it's not doing anything. However, this has never caused me problems - when you need to break hard, you break with your foot on the ground, or both. The rear fender is more for slowing down than for breaking, e.g. to keep a steady speed when going downhill, and when the tire is wet, that's exactly what happens - it won't decelerate you, but it will prevent acceleration when you push hard enough. I've not noticed any major difference here between the pneumatic and the solid wheel.
- overall it's not the fastest kick scooter, but you're trading speed for comfort and better tire grip - I went for pneumatic tires for the extra safety they provide on slippery surfaces, and indeed, I've never had the pneumatic tires lose grip and slide. This is important since I still wanted to commute on the scooter no matter the weather. I was also hoping the pneumatic tire would allow me to travel through old paving stones, but... only some are traversable, and even then it's not great.
- For me, average speed tends to be somewhere in the 12-15 km/h range, with top speeds on level ground in the 18-20 km/h range. The 6 km commute to work is not bad. Longest distances I've done in a single day were around 25 km, but I've only done it twice, to challenge myself (and save on train tickets xD ).
- over time, I've added a few necessary accessories to the scooter - a bell and lights, obviously, a front bag where I keep water, a spare tube and 'bicycle' tools, and a smaller bag that I put on the opposite side, where I keep a chain to secure the scooter (I need to wrap it twice around the part where the folding mechanism is, to keep it somewhat secure). Still, useful for 2-minute errands, so I don't need to take the scooter to a pharmacy or something.
- oh, and one other observation - when it's cold outside, the pressure drop in the tires is very noticeable as you ride. After 10 minutes of riding, you feel sluggish and lose speed quickly because of the lower pressure of cold air. I guess you could circumvent it by pumping the wheel to the correct pressure outside in the cold, or by overdoing it 'at home'. Just keep it in mind when taking the wheel back into a warm room. It probably won't burst, but it's better not to try your luck ;)
Ok. Do you use tyre sealant? I bought an A5 Air for safety because my A5 hard-tyre went too fast and was risky on poor pavements but the A5 Air is not as much fun (sluggish) as the hard-tyre. It's ok but I keep it for rainy days.
@@MarkCollins-d6g I don't, although I considered doing it before I switched the rear tyre to a solid PU one. I asked my friend (who runs a bicycle repair shop and is an avid downhill rider) for advice, and he was generally against using tyre sealants as 'they can make a mess', and are not easy to clean up after the sealant goes on your clothes, floor etc.
My current setup changed a bit however, as my front tyre was quite worn out and as I was too slow to replace it, it eventually caused a front tube rupture (at home, I returned from a ride and maybe half an hour later I heard an 'explosion' - I guess the warmer air inside heated up the tube rising the pressure to a point it couldn't handle). So I looked at buying a new tyre. My initial plan was to buy one from Razor, as I presume not many places sell 200x50 pneumatic tyres that are actually optimized for scooters (most tyres of these dimensions seem to be optimized for wheelchairs and strollers), but I decided to also buy a solid 200x50 wheelchair tyre as a spare wheel.
But, I tried riding with the solid tyre at the front, just to see how it differs from the pneumatic tyre, and actually there wasn't much of a difference, so that became my new default setup. So now I have two solid tyres, front one is a wheelchair 'hard rubber' tyre that looks very similar to a pneumatic tyre, same shape and width, apart from the tread that is simply a pattern of straight parallel lines. I would prefer a more 'grippy' tread for e.g. autumn when there are wet leaves on the paths, but sadly affordable wheelchair wheels don't seem to offer that as an option ;)
Whereas the rear wheel is a PU scooter wheel, "RAVEN Straight Black 200mm" to be exact. So the scooter still looks a little silly, with mismatched wheels.
I was initially worried this setup would be less comfortable to ride and less safe than having at least a pneumatic front tyre, but so far I've not noticed any such problems, and I actually like the much more consistent riding experience. The pneumatic tyre felt quite inconsistent as the air temperature - and thus pressure - changes during a ride, becoming either hotter if outside tempereture is hotter than indoors, or colder if riding in winter, so if I pumped up the tyre to the recommended 60 PSI at home, the pressure would feel off by the end of a ride. As I often ride in cold weather 0-5 Celsius, it would be underpressurized and very sluggish near the end. The alternative would be to pump up the tyre outdoors, or to guesstimate the correct pressure based on outside temperature and either underpressurize or overpressurize the tube at home, but... after the last explosive rupture, I'd rather not. So I guess solid tyres may actually be safer in the end, being both more consistent, and saving me from accidents that would have been caused by a tyre puncture. So far I've experienced 3 falls while riding, 2 during the first year, and the third a few years later, and that last one was caused by the front wheel puncture (by a tiny wood screw that went into the tyre like a caltrop), which probably wouldn't have happened if I had my current setup.
@@MarkCollins-d6g Yeah it works well actually. Never mind mr bike shop fred over there, roadies are whiney and not very smart. Just don't use the whole bottle since the wheels are small, only need a little bit in each tube. No mess, easily water soluble. Cyclists just need to find a reason to complain about everything and do things the nonsensical way.
You should be a late night Jazz radio DJ. You have the perfect voice and delivery.
I am a lifelong cyclist who just recently got interested in scooting. I live in Acadia National Park here in Maine and as the park has 50+ miles of beautifully surfaced gravel carriage paths I wanted something that could handle unpaved surfaces. After doing my homework I settled upon the Razor A5 Air. First impressions are mixed. Like the lady who wrote this review I've found the A5 Air really smooths out the cracks and minor bumps on paved surfaces. Difference between riding an all out racing bike with 110 lb narrow tires and a mountain bike in terms of smoothness and vibration free riding. Alas this comes at a cost of increased push effort and very decreased glide between kicks. On even slight uphills it sometimes almost feels like you are dragging an anchor. The other negative here in Maine is what we call frost heaves. Bubble like humps in the paved surface caused by frost in the ground these little buggers are a bit like moguls on downhill ski slopes. In short you can't bunny hop over them because they are too wide. When I come to one of these I either have to go round it or else hop off and carry over it. One thing I really noticed in this video is the amount of spin generated when the wheel is spun by hand. My A5 Air only has 10 miles on it thus far so the bearings may not be broken in but when I spin the wheels I am lucky to get 7" of rotation. I am a pretty decent bicycle mechanic but near as I can tell there is no way to adjust these bearings so I will just have to see if they free up some with use. If not I'll probably buy a set of Bones Reds and see if that improves performance. Anyway if you are looking for a scooter that delivers a safe , smooth, quiet ride you should check out the Razor A5 Air. But just be aware of the need for increased push effort, slower speeds, and low ground clearance. Whoops, almost forgot to mention tire inflation. As pointed out in this review getting air into these tires can present some problems. Although the tubes have angled valve stems that help, angles and clearances do make getting the pump head on, and getting it to stay on, challenging. Part of the blame for this is the large size and rather poor design of the heads on most bicycle pumps. Schrader valves make the problem more difficult as Presta valves are much easier to attach a pump to. I'm fortunate to have a home air compressor with the small pump head and this makes inflating these tires a snap. If you find the hand or foot bicycle pump method a pain you can buy a steel tank with air hose that can be inflated with something like 180lbs of air at a gas station and then used at home. Cost is less $50 and it would be well worth it!
I found out some time after this video that loosening the wheel nuts allowed the tires to rotate freely. Over time I've been trying to figure out if this actually helps in the real world, if it rolls me farther per kick etc, but I haven't been able to come to any conclusion! I keep getting mixed results or at least results that aren't big enough to be able to tell for sure. The definite downside to doing this other than the thought of loose nuts being scary, is the tires will have play and it vibrates; it makes the appeal of a sturdy and smooth scooter feel a lot..less of those things.
You're right about the hills drastically affecting it. Slight downhills feels amazing (and easily can get scary if it's more downhill than that), while uphills (to me at least) are a deal breaker, even the slightest uphills drastically affect it. I imagine this happening with any scooter or skateboard, something that doesn't have the constant forward push like a bicycle does with pedals.
I find even just going a mile has me questioning whether I should take the bicycle instead.
A thing about filling up this scooter's tires I noticed is if I fill it up to 60PSI as it wants, just that tiny bit of air that shoots out when detaching the pump is enough to set it back to 52PSI or so! So I end up having to overfill it so it will end up on 60 after the detach. I just hope it never pops doing this!
RosieMoto Loosening the wheel mounting screws should not allow the wheels to rotate more freely. Without a drawing it's kind of hard to explain why but I'll give it a shot. On the A5 Air wheels there is a central axle that runs through the inner race of the wheel bearings. That axle is fastened to the scooter's frame with 2 screws that threaded into that axle, one on the left side, one on the right side. Before threading the screws into the axle they are passed through a short spacer on each side. The job of these spacers is to center the wheel between the frame. As the screws holding the wheel to the frame are tightened they force these two spacers up against the outer face of the inner bearing race. When fully tightened these screws can not effect how freely the wheels spin because the inner bearing race they tighten against does not itself rotate but rather is held rigidly in place with the bearings and outer race spinning around it. It might be possible for a bent or malformed central axle to be effecting the spin if the wheel mounting screws are fully tightened or it might be that a misaligned frame member might be effecting free movement of the wheel. All this said I'd be very hesitant to loosen the wheel mounting screws very much as this might result in a wheel falling off! Not a fun moment if traveling at speed!
I'm a cyclist too but since I discovered kick scooters my three (expensive) bikes have been gathering dust. Bikes can be exhilarating because they go fast but kick scooters are so leisurely and relaxing, particularly if you have no particular destination you want to reach. The two machines offer different experiences. Scooters should not be used for uphill travelling (or downhill for that matter). They are for level surfaces. Well that's what I think.
A post script on inflating the tires on the A5 Air:
The solution I came up with was 1 1/4" valve extenders manufactured by Slime a company specializing in bicycle tire tubes. These extenders came in a pack of 4 and cost just a bit over $5 at Tractor Supply. They are also available on Amazon and elsewhere. There seems to be lot of confusion over how these extenders work so I'll explain. On one end of the extender there is a threaded female fitting, on the opposite end there is a threaded male fitting. To install the extender on the A5 Air tube you first remove the plastic dust cap from the tire's valve stem. Using the end of the extender with the female (internal) threads you now screw the extender onto the tires valve stem. This is easily done on the front tire but because of clearance problems it can be a bit tricky on the rear tire. The extender must be reasonably tight or it will leak air when you begin pumping air into the tire. I had a hard time getting it tight with my fingers on the rear tire so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to snug it up. Once the extender is installed look at the end you attach the pump to and you will see it has a spherical check valve. This allows you to pump air into the tire but prevents the air from leaking back out when the pump is removed. To insert air you attach the bicycle pump head to the valve extender. Push the head on firmly and then actuate the head's lock lever. This prevents the head from disconnecting when you start pumping...on most pumps you flip the lever up to lock it, on some you flip it down. Check your pump manual online for directions or just experiment to find which position works. Now comes the kind of tricky part. Both my floor pump and the small hand pump I carry while scooting are manufactured by Topeak and both are equipped with pressure gauges. For some reason when I start pumping the gauge immediately shoots up to 100 lbs or more and then slowly declines. My guess is that it takes a lot of pressure to open the spherical valve in the valve extender and let air into the tire. Whatever the reason the result is it's difficult to get an accurate pressure reading from the gauge on the pump. So what I do is pump until the tire is really hard and then remove the pump head and take a pressure reading with my hand held tire pressure gauge. If I have overinflated the tire I depress the spherical valve in the valve extender, let out a bit of air and then using my hand held pressure gauge take another measurement. When the tire is inflated to 60 lbs I remove the valve extender, reattach the dust cap and repeat the process on the other tire. I know this sounds complicated but it's really not. I can top off the pressure in both tires in 3 to 4 minutes. As to whether or not to remove the valve extenders when done inflating the tires you really should remove them as they stick out far enough to hit the frame on the rear tire and may slowly leak air if left on on the front tire.
I've been using a rubber valve extender, cost me maybe $3, works like charm. I've had another issue though - since over the years of using A5 air, I've got many tube punctures, I've been buying new tubes - and it seems wheelchair tubes are the perfect size, yet cheaper, so that's what I've been buying. There's just one issue - sometimes, they have the valve angled not at 45 degrees like the original tubes, but perpendicular... and these stick out too much from the wheel, causing the dust cap or the valve itself to hit the fork. It's tricky to work around this, so it's best to make sure to only buy tubes that have valves angled to one side.
I would call it mastering the bunny hop to keep from bottoming out
There is a long video by Have A Nice Ride, where he compared the A5 Sir to the solid tired A6. He talks about the bottoming problem with the A5 Air, and shows how he did the little front wheel hop that you mention. He seems to prefer the A5 Air to the A6. The A6 has 10" solid tires, and is faster than the Air, but the Air gives a better ride. Is it a bit hard to air the tires on your A5 Air? Some electrocardiogram have stubby shortfalls stems, and are very hard to get the tire pump attached right. They make tire valve extenders that makes the job much easier.
It's not as hard as I was expecting. I use my index finger to bend the valve just enough and hold it there while I put on the air pump with a combination of both hands and other fingers. Only takes about 5 secs to get it on total so not too bad.
"Now you're stuck only listening to me" - darling, it's what I'm here for! :)))
I try to do wheelies over bumps, but I’ve been over some where even my old smaller scooter would bottom out
OMG sexiest sounding in scooter review ever!
Yooo this thing makes the kids scooter look itty bitty. It's good that it can make it thru the cracks but tbh I hadn't even considered the breaks. I wonder if u went fast enough on a wet road if you could hydro plane haha that would seem fun/ a lil scary..glad you like it thus far! It looks awesome!
so, in simple words: It's just great, right?
Thank you so much for the wonderful video!!!
I really don't like this fender brake Razor is using on most of their scooter line. It's difficult to use repeatedly on a long ride and not intuitive. Not to mention riding downhill or if you happen to ride with your feet sitting parallel. I understand it cuts costs, but a handle brake it's just great and it ads what, $10 to production costs ? Razor has handle brake on their electric E series and it works just great. However the other of their electric line-up still have this cheap fender foot brake.
I'm thinking about switching from my lux.......is the speed difference really that bad anyone?
How does it compare to a Razor A5 DLX?
Hi ! i know its an old video but i have some questions ! So basically im planning to buy a electric scooter with my dad for cheap for high school and im looking for this for awhile,and basically my question is that how big is the handle bar height? because im arond 150-153 centimeters
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It gets very tall. I’m 5’8 ish and I don’t even have mine all the way up, and it still feels tall for me lol.
I really liked the video. I want one, too.
Kewell :-) Stay safe out there
Awesome video. I have the same scooter.
So.... just technique... Abec 9 ?
Sound like Michael Jackson
Put some fat tires on it!