Isolating a Spectrum 8-40CW for DCC and tuning up a Walthers 8-40BW
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- Isolating a split chassis for DCC isn't as hard as you might think! With a little insulating and rewiring, a Spectrum split chassis can be modified to work with DCC. Although I'm not doing the installation, I am at least getting it prepared for that.
Also on the bench is a Walthers 8-40BW which needed a little tune-up work and a small modification to fit a speaker.
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I remember when both these models came out. The Spectrum had 2 different versions with the W cab and the standard cab . The W had the heavier fame and could out pull just about anything . The Walthers came out around the same time as the gp 15 .Both had grab irons in a bag and drill index points for super detailing that many overlook .Nice work here !
Thanks for the feedback. I will use the pen technique. Very useful.
Hello Darth, this video is just in time. I bought a gg1 last week. One of my very favorite lokos, Its my 4th us loko. Not the last. Your video showed me to isolate the motor. It seems normal for us stuff to have one pol via frame. Thanks for sharing. Regards Rainer
I always liked how pretty dash 8s in warbonnet schemes looked
When I first got into ho scale trains I bought dozens of these Spectrum locomotives added DCC and Tsunami and Tsunami 2 sound decoders I isolated the motor a little differently I cut thin slices of electrical tape lining the motor mount in the frame then soldered wires to the motor tab. I milled out the frame to make room for the decoder and speaker. Your method works just fine. Later on I added ditch lights when my skills got better. I really lie walthers locomotives they have decent details good motors that are comparable to Atlas motors and very good pulling power. Very good video.
Aside from a cracked gear now and then, those older Spectrums have been good runners for me. It takes some work doing a sound install, but it's worth it if you like the model. :)
Walthers actually did offer the Dash 8 as a mainline model several years back.
Thanks, I forgot about those! Looks like the Mainline version comes with upgraded gearing and sound.
@@DarthSantaFe Yeah. They came with the Proto drive, so they were great runners.
And Walthers is doing another run of dash 8s in the mainline series that's supposed to come out in the summer of 2024 according to their site. New paint schemes including ATSF bluebonnet, Union Pacific, and Southern Pacific for the standard cab units. BNSF fakebonnet, and Amtrak for the wide cab versions with paint schemes including more road numbers in the Pepsi Can scheme, Phase 4 (which Walthers hasn't done a phase iv dash 8 in quite some time along with BNSF fakebonnet). For the very first time, Walthers is doing the current Phase V, and the California scheme as for the longest time Atlas was the only manufacturer who did the phase V and California scheme dash 8s. If there's one thing I wished Walthers did with the dash 8s when they brought them back in the mainline series, I wished they added ditch lights to them like what the sd70aces and es44acs have.
Superb how to video! I was a bit surprised that you are using black tape. The glue on it is said to migrate. This would be especially true with the warmth of the motor. Kapton tape might be a better choice for insulation, thickness and eliminate the black tape glue issue. Enjoyed!
Thanks! Electrical tape is what was requested, so that’s what I used. Bachmann’s motors are efficient runners, so there shouldn’t be much heat buildup.
I’d love to get my hands on a csx spectrum and dcc it! I had one back in college and loved that thing!!!
Got Atlas Demonstrators of both, albeit with "Spartan" cabs. Slight boring out the coupler pocket holes eliminates threads from gripping. Awesome work! John
Great work as always! Ive been thinking about inquiring about a Brass 2-8-0 of mine. I broke a couple sand lines while attempting to strip paint, and I don't have the tools to fix it. However, that would be farther down the road, I've got to fix a solder joint that holds the cylinders to the frame. Can't wait to see whats next!
If you ever need help with that repair, just let me know!
Very interesting way to balance the engine counter weights,
I can't even tell you how many flywheels I've had to balance. It makes a difference to have those turning smoothly!
Masterful. Help.
Another great video as usual. I especially appreciate how you take your time explaining what you are doing and your tone of voice - reminds me of a friend who is an FM radio announcer!
What gauge wire do you use for wiring the motors and where do you get that double conductor type?
Regards.
Thanks! I usually use 24AWG wire. I found the 2-conductor wire at Hobby Lobby somewhere around the diorama supplies.
Super 😊😊
You should be using a fiberglass pen to clean the wheels and contacts.
Any chance you have a Rivarossi Redbox articulate locomotive coming up for repair... always enjoyed seeing those particular locomotives cleaned up and running...
There’ll be an AHM era model coming up. My only modern Rivarossi is an Allegheny, which might get a tune-up video eventually, but I don’t know when that will be.
@@DarthSantaFe very cool always enjoyed your videos.. looking forward to what's next..👍
Get some thin wall brass tube and cut some small pieces to sleeve over the split gears.
That can work, but the tube needs to be perfectly sized, and there has to be enough room around the gear even for thin walled tubing.
Nice video. I just subscribed. What guage wire do you use on these?
Thanks! I usually use 24AWG wire since it’s flexible enough for most HO models while still being thick enough to carry the full power required by some motors.
hi darth i am new to your channel i realy like your videos do you fix and engins with sound
Lmao these are my boyfriend’s locomotives