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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2021
- Video shows how to install the high-saturation automobile ferrites. For more information, or to learn about the T.R.A.P. protection devices, go to disasterpreparer.com/product/.... More EMP preparedness supplies at disasterpreparer.com. Also, check out my cool fiction and non-fiction books at www.amazon.com/Arthur-Bradley.... Finally, if you like my work, kindly consider becoming a Patreon supporter at / arthurbradley . Don't forget to subscribe!
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Definitely budgeting these mods in!! Thx for all you're doing in this space for the average citizen! Appreciate you!
Thank you for your kind words.
Thank you for all these product's, they are great and hopefully we'll never need them. Follow up... With so many vehicles having USB connection points in them, what options do we have to protect those? Or are they not an area of concern?
Awsome👍 would you be willing to do a video demonstrating on how it works dampening voltages before and after?
I did something similar a while back. See th-cam.com/video/uBrjr3AClAQ/w-d-xo.html.
Can you put both traps, the one that goes on the post and the ones shown here for the wires together? I have a diesel with 2 batteries.
I'm going to order some of your products for a couple of my vehicles, but I do have a question. One of my vehicles is an old 1977 model, carbureted (so no electronic fuel injection) with a manual trans (so no computer necessary to operate the vehicle at all). the only electrical component in the car is the battery. will one TRAP-B unit sufficiently protect this vehicle from a nuclear EMP in your opinion? There's no cigarette lighter for a regular TRAP.
Hi Dr. Bradley, Thank you for the great video. The one cable (of the 2 cables out of the positive terminal) that you pick, is it the one going to the fuse panel? or going to the ignition/motor starter? my vehicle has also 2 positive cables and I am not sure which one should I pick and put the ferrite on.
Did you not watch?? He clearly states he's wanting to protect the cable going to the fuse box
Is another ferrite not necessary on the other red positive lead coming off the battery? Thanks
Will this be okay for motorcycles? Would seem too big do you make a smaller size?
I have a few questions about these, I hope that’s ok.
One, I noticed you used two of them in the video, will I need two of them to be effective? Or can I use just 1?
Question 2, will these work in vehicles that have high powered audio systems that draw 10,000 watts or more at 14.8 volts, or will they disrupt the high amp draw from the system?
Lastly, I’ve been looking at your other EMP products as well, and I’m not sure exactly which one to go with, I just want protection in the event of a H.E.M.P attack given the state of our world. Will these do just fine alone? Or is it better to pair with the T.R.A.P, or would the T.R.A.P alone be fine as well?
About the computer, how is it protected? It has several main connectors, although it has a metal casing that dissipates heat and looks like a Faraday cage, I'm worried about the input and output cables, thanks
Question:
How would this device be installed on a 2010-2015 3rd Gen Prius with a Auxillary Battery in the trunk and Hybrid Battery practically buried between the rear seats and trunk ???
Thank U for the very informative video.
Hi, thanks for the video. Two questions: 1) why do some ferrite beads wrap the cord around, for instance with some DC adapters ? 2) Can't high energy RF penetrate PCBs directly and damage them in that way too ?
Wrapping the cord around the ferrite improves its performance. It also makes it more likely to saturate, but for low current applications, it's a great practice. Yes, high-energy RF can damage components on PCBs directly, although, the amount of energy coupled in is dependent on the trace (or lead) length. For that reason, most energy ends up being coupled into cables.
@@disasterprepper Thanks for the quick reply ! Appreciate the input. About traces, since they are very dense per surface unit (say in motherboards), aren't they still a vulnerability despite having many cables going in and out of such appliances ? Cheers
@@Dreadlockyx Traces can certainly receive energy, but if you look at most externally-induced RF problems, they tend to couple onto and then come in via the cables. Not 100%, of course, but most. EMP protection is all about putting in place various safeguards to reduce the likelihood of damage. It's not perfect (unless you're willing to build a full Faraday room with EMP filters), but simple precautions can greatly improve chances of the hardware surviving.
@@disasterprepper I see, many thanks again for the insight. Keep up the good work !
Thanks for the video. Thoughts on the EMP shield for vehicles?
Would it work just as well if we attach the black (negative) line to the car frame (ground)?
Are there any other wires or cables in the newer vehicles that you think should have ferrites on them?
They can be placed around power wires (especially pairs of wires, when possible), but ferrites aren't typically used on data lines to avoid interfering with high-frequency signal edges. As far as specific cables, no I can't say which specific cables other than those coming off the battery. As you know, the T.R.A.P. devices use a different technique of suppressing voltage transients (rather than current transients). When combined, it offers a multi-faceted surge protection strategy - something I personally like.
How would you install it on a hybrid vehicle? Would you need more than one set of ferrites?
Question; why install any anti EMP devices on your vehicle? How is anybody going to get around the wreckage on the highways unless you go off roading; not to mention one would have a huge target on their back if you have the only running vehicle in the area; trying to get gas?.... pumps fried!!
I've always believed that it's better to have than to have not. Yes, there would be challenges to using your vehicle, but that shouldn't discourage you from preparing. After all, the same argument could be made against food storage, backup electricity, etc. To me, it's about having options.
Hello Dr. Bradley. My question is do these broadband EMP ferrites attenuate all forms of pulses relative to EMP origination event, {i.e. solar flares, high energy EMP weapon (conducted pulse), lightning, nuclear weapon, ect.} as well as, form, {i.e. electric/magnetic at short distances, conducted, or radiation at long distances} from high frequency rapidly alternating current flux occurring because of EMP phenomena or only very specific EMP origins/forms? Does water attenuate EMPs in any significant way, relative to the pulses origin/form?
P.S. Of course considering the limits of the broadband EMP ferrites high frequency absorption tolerance.
The source doesn't really matter. If the frequency range of the disturbance is in the band of the ferrite, the resultant current on the line will be attenuated. Water does attenuate RF energy, as does soil, but I haven't made measurements to determine how much across frequency. My guess is that it would have to be pretty deep (more than a swimming pool) to provide much attenuation. It would be an interesting experiment.
OK I am 100% on board with ferrites on electronics circuits and maybe even a cigarette lighter with something like an MOV . but what good with a spike current limiting device do on a battery cable? The V spike will come from the wire itself, Nothing about the battery would make it spike in voltage nor would a short voltage spike hurt a chemical battery. Now placing them little things all around maybe close to the ignition, the radio , any computers etc. anything electronic yes great idea. But the battery cable ? I am confused about that.. Thanks Jeff
It's a good question. Here are my thoughts... let's say a voltage of 100V is induced on the other end of a cable connected to the battery. The battery will attempt to sink current due to the voltage difference. Likewise, if the induced voltage is below the battery voltage, the battery will attempt to drive current out. These transient currents are similar to transients introduced in a standalone solar power generation system. In EMP simulator tests, the batteries have been shown to be damaged by such transients when cables are attached. I hope that makes sense. I would have thought batteries would be impervious to such transients, but testing showed that was not the case. I do, however, consider the ferrites as a second-level (aka optional) protection.
@@disasterprepper Interesting. I also would have thought battery's would have been impervious to spikes. I bought one of the whole house surge protectors you recommended. An EMP is a concern of mine.. Thanks for your response.
What’s your opinion around the alternator/ charging circuitry? Are the extra cables attached to the battery associated with the alternator?
I wouldn't expect the alternator to be damaged, so that wouldn't be the cable that I put ferrites on.
So you don’t need to remove the plastic wire tubing over the cables? It’s still functions the same if you were to place the magnets on the cables directly?
No, it will function the same either way.
Hi, Glad to have found your informative channel !!!
Assuming your vehicle is made of metal, mostly, how much attenuation, under the hood, from an EMP should be expected?
I saw your video with the mylar blanket and Spectrum Ana, in which you installed the SA inside a box for testing EMP attenuation. Have you done a video under a car hood or bonnet for the European folks ? I am ASSUMING your SA has a capture mode.
I've measured inside the cabin of a vehicle, and as you'd expect, the shielding is pretty modest (under 10 dB). I've not measured under the hood of a car, but I suspect it would be a little better (lots of metal but also long seams to let in energy). Yes, my SA has peak capture mode.
What is the difference between the ones you sell and the ones I can get for a couple bucks for TV's?
If you have two batteries in series, would you still need two ferrites on each battery and two of the wired TRAP's?
If it were me, I'd put a TRAP-B across each 12-volt battery and a set of high-saturation ferrites (or a large toroid) around the main wires coming off the series pair.
@@disasterprepper Thank you for your quick reply, I am on your website now. :)
Could I simply disconnect the battery from a vehicle in storage?
Energy would still pulse through the system if not protected. If you did disconnect it, you could cover it with conductive cloth, which would also offer protection.
I appreciate taking the time to share however, most cars these days have a ton of electrical components, computers, alternators, etc. In this video you are only covering the battery. How would you suggest covering all the other parts against an EMP? Some of them may be impossible to get to.
Question : The EMP shield they sell that is advertised my all sorts of youtubers, is this equal to or as good as they claim their product is ???Thank you and God bless you.
My apologies, but for obvious reasons, I prefer not to compare competitors' products.
How do I get my money back in the event that they fail 😆
Arthur do you sell the automotive ferrite shown in the video?
Yes, they are at: disasterpreparer.com/product/trap/. The third option in the drop-down menu is for the auto ferrites.
Question would this device work with EV vehicles?
Hi Brian, you could use the TRAP products and high-sat ferrites on an EV vehicle just like any other vehicle, but the TRAP-B would go across the normal 12-volt battery, not the high-voltage rechargeable battery system used to drive the car. I don't know of a product that could be used on that battery system.
Go buy a parts vehicle and remove every electronic module and computer from it... Put them inside a farraday cage inside a steel ammo can sealed with metal tape.. Emp happens walk outside and swap out the dead for the living and be mobile again.. Few hundred bucks max for all the used parts needed... Sell remaining vehicle or parts off of it to recoup your initial outlay..
I don't disagree that having spare parts is a good idea. With that said, if your on the interstate driving home when the EMP happens, your strategy runs into trouble.
I carry mine inside of a protected and sealed ammo box inside of my truck wherever I roam... That way I can always spend maybe 30 minutes swapping out all electronics and have a fully operational vehicle tbat gets 20mpg minimum and can carry as many as 6 bodies inside and as many as can sit inside the bed... Carrying an extra 20 gallons of fuel allows me an extra 3-409 mile range above and beyond whatever's in the tank and doesnt really take up any space in the bed... Of course it will paint a big bulls eye but we do what we have to do.
@@FJ80Coop Wow, very impressive!
I really hate walking...bicycling is another story thouvh 😆
I would rather use the ferrites and traps and that is because if a emp occurs 1 time its likely that there will be another nukes exploding all over the world, and most of cars have many electronics, the ecu, body control module, fuel injection system, cluster and others like airbags, abs, esp etc. And its cheaper to protect them like that that buy another ecu or full injection system... Just thinking 🤔... i hope i can buy one trap soon
Have you thought about changing your channel name to YOUR name to increase views?
After all if someone is going to search for you,due to your various books they may have read,it would be by name first and since the "prepper" type channel name is everywhere you would,in theory,get more hits by changing it.
Or perhaps the "emp" channel since everyone is increasingly concerned about that and clearly you have a good channel for that subject matter.
Thanks Kris. That's an interesting suggestion. I'll give it some thought.
@@disasterprepper Okay.
Thanks for the response.