Thanks so much for the amazing review! We followed the build episodes and thouroughly enjoyed them. Great to see you enjoyed the build and the machine itself. We're especially happy you liked the quality of the parts as well, as we strive to offer as good a kit as we can inside the price point. We appreciate all the constructive feedback which we will surely take into account as we iterate and improve this little machine! Thanks again! Miguel / Rat Rig
Cheers and thanks for providing the mech kit used for this series. Its definitely a great little machine for those looking to get into DIY self built 3d printers, you did a great job there, and I believe it will just get better, and more streamlined, in future revisions.
Rap rig listen here he gave you some great pointers between the two systems he’s right you’ll have a crap ton too many pieces where you can Tweak a part slightly to reduce this one random screw please look at that your printers have too many small parts I am only a Rat Rig person that’s the only custom machines I’ve built but he’s right you have too many parts. Look at streamlining your building materials please
Thank you Nero! As someone loosely involved in its development I am with you on everything you said. Going faster is worth the experience, I do not bother to go to 4 digit accels anymore with this machine.
Thumbs up for the power supply! I got one of those (500 Watts, though) for my V-Core 2, and it was soooo nice to get rid of that howling fan of the crappy nondescript PSU that RatRig included in the kit. I really wish the 3d printing community would do more about fan noise. The whole silent stepper driver thing is totally irrelevant IMHO if you have five noisy fans on every printer.
Finished up my own "Full Kit" build this week to stock and agree 100% on the mods you went with as the stock PSU's fan is extremely noisy, the floating electronics box is awkward to position and had same concerns about the underbed wiring.. besides having everything bolted to the frame decreases the overall size and makes it easier to move around. Definitely planning on redoing things with your enclosure and replacing the PSU's fan with a Noctua, so far all I've really added is a TFT35 V3 in Marlin mode for local control, but RatOS supports KlipperScreen out of the box so going touchscreen GUI is doable without much work. Thanks for the all the amazing build streams/videos and the STLs!
So, I have considered RatRig for their massive versions with the huge volume. I know big printers multiply errors etc., but would love to watch you build one and tell us your thoughts on the 500 x 500 x 500 model.
It could be argued it doesn’t look nearly as nice and it could add greatly to the parts count, but if the alternative is cracking printed parts, I’d consider using larger diameter flat washers under the screw heads if you’ve got them and they don’t reduce the holding capacity of the screws by making them too short.
That's where the mechanical kit comes into play I guess, you can then selfsource the rest, maybe use some parts you have already of pick up used from other builders
seriously i have similar result with kingroon kp3s and come preassembly and calibrated worth checking it out and you can upgrade to z linear rail to get a 3 axes linear rail printer .. on mine i print at 150mm/s 5k acel ( without z linear rail) wich is not bad for this price point (169$ US )
Great video... Did you run imput shaper on it? You sad that you use Pusa SuperPINDA type sonde, is it really Prusas sonde or you can share link. I see that RatRig additionaly selling something like SuperPINDA but it cost more than SuperPINDA from Prusa directly.
I have a bunch of spare parts and extrusions from different upgrades on other printers. I've been thinking about getting everything together and see what I can come up with.
I would have liked to see a comparison between this and the very popular Kingroon Kp3s machine. It looks very similar with the linear rail construction, same bed size, roughly equivalent toolhead setup (minus the pinda style probe), but at roughly 1/4 of the price.
I'm waiting for my Lerdge iX kit to arrive, it was shipped today. Although I like the idea of running Klipper and the ease of changing settings on the fly, I'm more than intrigued by a board that can do it self contained. I don't really want to HAVE to run a computer just to change stuff. Klipper would be amazing if the Klipper team would actively develop "Klipper screen" to the point you don't even need a computer to configure your printer. I get the options you get with Klipper on a computer, but once you have built it, you may only change a few things down the road and no longer need all the configuration options fast at hand. I don't really care that the firmware is "closed", I can configure everything I need to from a touchscreen. Like Klipper, you are looking to get "away" from having to compile firmware as it is.
Moderately surprised you didn't mention the t-nuts. Drop in t-nuts would prevent a lot of the struggles you had on stream with assembly ^_^ It's definitely a nice looking little printer, I may have to get one because it just hits so many lovely notes out of the gate.
Interesting thanks, RatRig are a stones throw from me, I'm in Spain and they are over in Portugal only place in Europe that's goof for parts to be honest and for profile its the cheapest, just bought 600 euros worth for a large cnc laser I'm replacing mine with. They are fast once they have items in stock and the printers here in Europe have a good following. On your notes a couple of observations please.... Change button bolts to flat black Japan´d button fittings with a Torx head. we need to scrap all other types of heads in my opinion, Torx is much stronger than anything else for this size of fitting, and I would be happy to pay more if the hardware was based on that. Flat buttons are more stronger than domes ones safer to tighten and the reverse and i think they look nicer, if not Torx then Allen , when you are working with small metric threads like this you need a good quality head always, Phillip's , socket head and flat are just not up to spec now. I need to know that I can disassemble the machine with ease if I need to with one type of screwdriver, it infuriates me nothing more than having to look for another type on the same machine, size yes that´s fine but no excuse for the type. I have to admit to favouring external electronics but with a rapid connect disconnect system, the reason is obvious when you start to print exotics, you can not keep the electronics in side an enclosure and expect them to keep working when you're printing at 300º, you'll shorten the life of them by doing so. if its just PLA it´s fine... Good video thank you it really is a great machine and RepRap are taking off big time here.
Honest opinion nero: you’re the voron guy but now build a rat rig. Whats the „better“ printer? V minion or 3 versus voron2. I think both look awesome, but rat rig isn’t enclosed. On the other side rat rig 3 has the option to tilt the bed (maybe in the future we can do like tilted printing to get better/ bigger overhangs)
So i havent built a vcore3 yet so cant directly comment on it, but there designed with different goals in mind, its something the end user needs to decide as to which one is best for them
I really like this machine, but I really don't like the fact the CAD for the brackets are missing. my understanding was that Rat Rig was supposed to be open source, so it's def frustrating to see it. Also, is "Umbilical" like what Prusa uses where it's a hard filament/wire to keep the wiring in place?
You should be able to export the bracket from onshape. And yes, it is kind of similar to the one Prusa uses, but it is a bit stiffer. On the short paths the minion has, no wire or similar is necessary.
Heya, Miguel from Rat Rig here. It's fully open source and in the CAD ;) Additionally, all of those are standard market brackets! It's just the ones on the spool holder are not very common and even less so in black!
В России не так то легко собрать этот принтер. Но часть деталей я изготовил на ЧПУ фрезере, и теперь я стану, наверное, единственным обладателем данной модели в стране )
Hmm, this printer makes no sense from a budgetary standpoint. I just bought a new Kingroon KP3S for US$140 with free shipping. Admittedly this was a sale price but it can be bought for US$180 from various places all day long. It has the same design, 180x180x180 print area, direct feed print head, and linear rails for the X and Y axis. The only thing it doesn't have is ABL, which can be added as an option. But realistically for a bed this small it's not really needed. Its print quality and reliability is so good that many use them in print farms for commercial use.
Thanks so much for the amazing review! We followed the build episodes and thouroughly enjoyed them. Great to see you enjoyed the build and the machine itself. We're especially happy you liked the quality of the parts as well, as we strive to offer as good a kit as we can inside the price point. We appreciate all the constructive feedback which we will surely take into account as we iterate and improve this little machine! Thanks again!
Miguel / Rat Rig
Cheers and thanks for providing the mech kit used for this series.
Its definitely a great little machine for those looking to get into DIY self built 3d printers, you did a great job there, and I believe it will just get better, and more streamlined, in future revisions.
Rap rig listen here he gave you some great pointers between the two systems he’s right you’ll have a crap ton too many pieces where you can Tweak a part slightly to reduce this one random screw please look at that your printers have too many small parts I am only a Rat Rig person that’s the only custom machines I’ve built but he’s right you have too many parts. Look at streamlining your building materials please
Good feedback for RatRig on the continuous improvement they can potentially have of communizing hardware and hardware lengths.
Thank you Nero! As someone loosely involved in its development I am with you on everything you said.
Going faster is worth the experience, I do not bother to go to 4 digit accels anymore with this machine.
Thumbs up for the power supply! I got one of those (500 Watts, though) for my V-Core 2, and it was soooo nice to get rid of that howling fan of the crappy nondescript PSU that RatRig included in the kit. I really wish the 3d printing community would do more about fan noise. The whole silent stepper driver thing is totally irrelevant IMHO if you have five noisy fans on every printer.
Super fair points, thanks for the kick in the butt and some super enjoyable streams! :D
Thanks for designing great printers! You guys do great work for the community 👌🏻
Like from Spain for choosing the mechanical!!!!
Everyone take a shot when he says rat rig!
Finished up my own "Full Kit" build this week to stock and agree 100% on the mods you went with as the stock PSU's fan is extremely noisy, the floating electronics box is awkward to position and had same concerns about the underbed wiring.. besides having everything bolted to the frame decreases the overall size and makes it easier to move around.
Definitely planning on redoing things with your enclosure and replacing the PSU's fan with a Noctua, so far all I've really added is a TFT35 V3 in Marlin mode for local control, but RatOS supports KlipperScreen out of the box so going touchscreen GUI is doable without much work.
Thanks for the all the amazing build streams/videos and the STLs!
Well done Nero! This was a totally fair review. I enjoyed all the live streams for this build as well. Looking forward to more of these.
Thanks a lot for the information about scaling 100.5% !
So, I have considered RatRig for their massive versions with the huge volume.
I know big printers multiply errors etc., but would love to watch you build one and tell us your thoughts on the 500 x 500 x 500 model.
It could be argued it doesn’t look nearly as nice and it could add greatly to the parts count, but if the alternative is cracking printed parts, I’d consider using larger diameter flat washers under the screw heads if you’ve got them and they don’t reduce the holding capacity of the screws by making them too short.
Great video man. I look forward to all your builds
Man, I really want to get this printer. But 600€ for the full kit is not cheap. Great build!
That's where the mechanical kit comes into play I guess, you can then selfsource the rest, maybe use some parts you have already of pick up used from other builders
seriously i have similar result with kingroon kp3s and come preassembly and calibrated worth checking it out and you can upgrade to z linear rail to get a 3 axes linear rail printer .. on mine i print at 150mm/s 5k acel ( without z linear rail) wich is not bad for this price point (169$ US )
@@maddugqc6911 have you installed Klipper on it?
I self sourced mine and used blind joints for the frame. Also using sensorless homing for X and Y.
I was floating that option, but then the RR team reached out first lol
@@CanuckCreator tnx for the mod files btw! using the separate box for now but maybe I`ll go the self-contained route one day.
Great video...
Did you run imput shaper on it?
You sad that you use Pusa SuperPINDA type sonde, is it really Prusas sonde or you can share link. I see that RatRig additionaly selling something like SuperPINDA but it cost more than SuperPINDA from Prusa directly.
Stay doing videos like these!
I’d love to see a voron version of this with all the improvements you’ve added or suggested.
This bring back memory of my ender 2 which I used 4 years back and paid 3 times lesser than the V-minion
I have a bunch of spare parts and extrusions from different upgrades on other printers. I've been thinking about getting everything together and see what I can come up with.
Looks realy awesome 🖖👍
Should the parts be scaled to 100.5% in all direction? Or XY only?
Neat build!
I would have liked to see a comparison between this and the very popular Kingroon Kp3s machine. It looks very similar with the linear rail construction, same bed size, roughly equivalent toolhead setup (minus the pinda style probe), but at roughly 1/4 of the price.
I'm waiting for my Lerdge iX kit to arrive, it was shipped today. Although I like the idea of running Klipper and the ease of changing settings on the fly, I'm more than intrigued by a board that can do it self contained. I don't really want to HAVE to run a computer just to change stuff. Klipper would be amazing if the Klipper team would actively develop "Klipper screen" to the point you don't even need a computer to configure your printer. I get the options you get with Klipper on a computer, but once you have built it, you may only change a few things down the road and no longer need all the configuration options fast at hand. I don't really care that the firmware is "closed", I can configure everything I need to from a touchscreen. Like Klipper, you are looking to get "away" from having to compile firmware as it is.
Moderately surprised you didn't mention the t-nuts. Drop in t-nuts would prevent a lot of the struggles you had on stream with assembly ^_^ It's definitely a nice looking little printer, I may have to get one because it just hits so many lovely notes out of the gate.
I would say that falls under my comments on streamlining the BOM
Thanks! Have you tried pushing it speed-wise? It's supposed to be close to a good core XY in that regard.
The box elettronics is it only for skr or skr+raspberry?
I saw on Facebook that someone make a smaller version of the Minion with a 120mm build plate called the tic tac I believe
Nero can you upload your config and the .step files for the Controller Box? Thank you :)
Interesting thanks, RatRig are a stones throw from me, I'm in Spain and they are over in Portugal only place in Europe that's goof for parts to be honest and for profile its the cheapest, just bought 600 euros worth for a large cnc laser I'm replacing mine with.
They are fast once they have items in stock and the printers here in Europe have a good following.
On your notes a couple of observations please....
Change button bolts to flat black Japan´d button fittings with a Torx head. we need to scrap all other types of heads in my opinion, Torx is much stronger than anything else for this size of fitting, and I would be happy to pay more if the hardware was based on that. Flat buttons are more stronger than domes ones safer to tighten and the reverse and i think they look nicer, if not Torx then Allen , when you are working with small metric threads like this you need a good quality head always, Phillip's , socket head and flat are just not up to spec now. I need to know that I can disassemble the machine with ease if I need to with one type of screwdriver, it infuriates me nothing more than having to look for another type on the same machine, size yes that´s fine but no excuse for the type.
I have to admit to favouring external electronics but with a rapid connect disconnect system, the reason is obvious when you start to print exotics, you can not keep the electronics in side an enclosure and expect them to keep working when you're printing at 300º, you'll shorten the life of them by doing so. if its just PLA it´s fine...
Good video thank you it really is a great machine and RepRap are taking off big time here.
Honest opinion nero: you’re the voron guy but now build a rat rig. Whats the „better“ printer? V minion or 3 versus voron2. I think both look awesome, but rat rig isn’t enclosed. On the other side rat rig 3 has the option to tilt the bed (maybe in the future we can do like tilted printing to get better/ bigger overhangs)
So i havent built a vcore3 yet so cant directly comment on it, but there designed with different goals in mind, its something the end user needs to decide as to which one is best for them
@@CanuckCreator what do you mean with diffrent goals?
Can you put a picture of a vminion next to a vzero
I love the Bunny Vader :-) STL???
i think the screw and build list is a decaent point.
What is the maximum realistic bed temperature the printer can print at ?
How does this compare to kp3s?
It would help me if you posted the config, been several weeks that the status stays -stay tuned- ;-)
Can the print plate be bigger 400mm x 400mm x400mm 🤔
No, that's the RatRig VCore 3 (which is a CoreXY).
I really like this machine, but I really don't like the fact the CAD for the brackets are missing. my understanding was that Rat Rig was supposed to be open source, so it's def frustrating to see it.
Also, is "Umbilical" like what Prusa uses where it's a hard filament/wire to keep the wiring in place?
You should be able to export the bracket from onshape.
And yes, it is kind of similar to the one Prusa uses, but it is a bit stiffer. On the short paths the minion has, no wire or similar is necessary.
@@worksasintended4997 man i didn't even think of that 😂 thanks
Heya, Miguel from Rat Rig here. It's fully open source and in the CAD ;) Additionally, all of those are standard market brackets! It's just the ones on the spool holder are not very common and even less so in black!
@@ratrighardware thanks for the response! That's awesome to hear! You guys make really cool machines for sure
"like that smash button" lol
compare this to Lerdge ix
"well documentated" eh?
its a perfectly cromulant word
В России не так то легко собрать этот принтер. Но часть деталей я изготовил на ЧПУ фрезере, и теперь я стану, наверное, единственным обладателем данной модели в стране )
Удачи!
Hmm, this printer makes no sense from a budgetary standpoint. I just bought a new Kingroon KP3S for US$140 with free shipping. Admittedly this was a sale price but it can be bought for US$180 from various places all day long. It has the same design, 180x180x180 print area, direct feed print head, and linear rails for the X and Y axis. The only thing it doesn't have is ABL, which can be added as an option. But realistically for a bed this small it's not really needed. Its print quality and reliability is so good that many use them in print farms for commercial use.
Too many parts! I'm skipping it, building my own cantilever with the lowest part count possible
First?
Yes, you are.
nope, I watched it first just didn't bother to comment.