Good information for those that haven't used it before. It is indeed a great medium if you know how to use it correctly and its properties appeal to your working style. The semi gloss and speed of drying are unparalleled, especially when painting in multiple very thin layers, Please allow me to add some information that might prevent some frustration in new users of Liquin: This medium dries faster than you might imagine. Even after only 1 hour, you feel a noticible difference in consistency. I would therefore NOT recommend to mix all colors with Liquin at the start of your session, especially if your sessions take usually longer than 1 hour. After 3 hours, it will be so sticky that you won't be able to paint smooth brushstrokes! My advice is, to put only a little bit of Liquin on the palet (you can always add more later) and add it only at the moment of mixing your paint. Keep the thread on the bottle and the cap absolutely clean, otherwise it can get really difficult to open it the next time. I don't pour it out, but let it flow only right up to the opening and scoop some out with a palet knife. Wipe off used palet knives immediately after use. When you're switching brushes during your session and expect a certain brush not to used for a while, wipe the remaining paint/Liquin mixture off with a cloth or paper towel.
Thanks for this Information! Do you know how to oil out when using liquin in the layer/layers underneath? Should I just use liquin to oil out or linseed oil mixed with oderless mineral spirits?
@@maxkoch3232 Good question. I never had a need to oil out, so I haven't done it (yet). I use Liquin in all layers (never more than 1 part Liquin to 3 parts paint) and I paint usually very thin layers and slowly, so there's no fat over lean issue. Also, I use Liquin "Light Gel" as my standard medium, which already produces more of a gloss than Liquin Original. However, if I would want to oil out, I would not use Liquin, but only just a touch of linseed oil, that i would rub over the surface. There is a short video on "Draw Mix Paint" showing that approach.
If you use high quality paints like Michael Harding or Old Holland, these nightmare scenarios you mentioned don't happen. I always use Walnut oil mixed with gamsol and a lot of patience. Haste makes waste. Wait weeks - less if weather and/or painting in thin layers - coat with retouch varnish. In 6 months to a year, coat with Damar varnish.
I’m a senior who took up painting later in life. I am so grateful for the instruction and education you’ve shared here. I’ve been using Liquin incorrectly, and I think my painting is going to improve greatly from learning how it should be used. Happy to have found your channel. Thankyou.
From my ten years experience of oil painting , Linseed Oil must be added with Liquin to the Tube Oil paint at a ratio of approxiametely 20% : 15% : 65%. Mix it thoroughly until it becomes a creamy smooth paste. Important note :1) shake the bottle of Liquin thoroughly before using. 2) squeeze and massage the tube of paint before opening , this mixes the contents and prevents , linseed oil dribbling out of tube.
@@martinr9618 Yes you can. My version is adding about 25% standard liquin to linseed oil or slightly less. Depending on other factors it slows down the drying time by about a third resulting in it being a lot easier to work with. I haven't seen any problems with it yet but I've only been using this mix about a year.
Great info! A tip I got from another artist is to keep your liquin in a squeeze bottle, only doling out the amount you need on each individual paint. No mess, none leftover, and less unnecessary toxin exposed.
Thank you! Confusion over mediums kept me away from oils for years until I found liquid. Now, with your help, I understand more about how I should be using it.
Excellent! Glad to help. I've used it in all of my recent paintings. If you'd like to check them out, I'm on IG @tannersteedart and my website is tannersteedart.com. Let me know if you have any further questions about liquin!
Just purchased my first bottle of Liquin and realised I needed good info on its use! Found your video so helpful and full of information on use of Liquin and also the safety aspects. Many thanks. Can’t wait to give it a try now..
Thank you Tanner. I haven't used oil paints in years. But now I want to give it another go. In the past, I've been using way too much liquin in the paint/liquin ratio. You have inspired me.
I'm a completely amateur in drawing/painting and i highly appreciate you making the time to answer every single question in the comments. You're literally so kind 🥺
You are so welcome! Let me know if you have any additional questions, and keep practicing. There is no such thing as an in born talent, it's all hard work.
Wow! I am new to oil painting and a friend told me to use Liquin to speed drying time. I am really glad I watched your video to find out the correct way to use it. Great information.
Extremely helpful video! I've been painting in oils for 20 years and I'm just now starting to look into mixing Liquin Original into my paints so that I don't have to wait forever for my paintings to dry. You have given me some excellent advice and I appreciate your expertise on this subject. I'll be looking into your other videos. Thanks mucho!
Hi Tanner, Thank you very much for your very informative video. I discovered you a few days ago & saw your video on stages of lean to fat applications. You are very thorough. So I discovered Liquin in the late 1980s and only used it as a 'glue' as I liked to stick beads & things on my oil paintings. After all these years not one piece has fallen off! I only recently started to use Liquin as a medium and I was very careful as I didn't know just how far I could go. So thank you for showing us the correct ratios. I love your energy ♥
As he mentions, the vapor is harmful because Liquin is a type of alkyd resin, nasty smelly stuff! For sensitive painters, look to Natural Pigments, they make an excellent pretty much odorless alternative that I switched to called Oleogel, although slower drying than Liquin. They also make some great non toxic putty and impasto mediums, long before Winsor Newton. And an amazing selection of paint (Rublev) that include unusual and historic pigments.
I have painted mostly with acrylic for half a century. I love using oil for its blending ability. One thing I would again warn people is to ventilate their work area. I have lost several artist friends to cancer who were exposed to solvents daily... Great video. Thanks.
How can you keep the area ventilated if you live in a place where it is -20 -30 degrees in winter?? It's impossible for me to keep the windows open for several hours in winter with this cold
Really good info. Thanks! I’ve only just started oil painting (coming from acrylics & watercolor). I did a bunch of research first, but because I don’t have a big studio, don’t want to have to deal with open windows & such for every single painting session (if I start using turpentine or other solvent-containing products then obviously I’ll have to for those sessions), mostly working in my room, I decided to start with Gamblin’s solvent-free fluid medium (alkyd+safflower oil), & I may have to re-evaluate as I try more mediums/solvents & get a better feel as to what serves my needs for full paintings, but I will say- so far I really like the stuff. No VOCs (nontoxic & it smells pretty good), it mixes with the paints pretty effortlessly… Compared to heavy bodied acrylics, where you really have to take a few minutes to mash all the lumps out & slowly work it into a thorough, homogenous mixture with any kind of medium, it’s pretty cool to basically just be able to stir it around until the pigment fills out the medium & have it basically become uniform in a few seconds (more like the effort of mixing fluid acrylics into medium). It seems to provide a very nice flow & transparency (depending on how much you add, with even a little bit really going a long way to make the paint workable)… I find the fast drying times of acrylics really convenient (I don’t have a lot of spaces where I can store a painting to dry for days on end with good air flow & sunlight & without any risk of contamination)… It’s really nice that a layer of acrylic is basically dry by the time I’m done with it & I don’t have to worry about that- but I also hate how difficult it is to do really subtle gradients or fades in acrylic… So I LOVE the things you can do with oils that that same property of acrylics makes extremely difficult… I can absolutely see why people like the slow dry times, in terms of being able to lay paints out on a palette & mix & not have to worry about them drying up mid-session (I find myself doing a lot of mixing from tubes as I go in acrylics rather than having everything on a palette at once, & it’s a lot less convenient than either oils or watercolors, though it works). But, moreover, just being able to put some paint down on the surface & then take as long as I want to slooowly feather it out, soften edges (all the way to a fade to the background color, blend colors smoothly… It’s very nice. And the solvent-free alkyd/safflower oil medium seems to work really well for all of these purposes in moderation. I like that it has a reasonable dry time- it feels like a good compromise between the benefits of oils & alkyds from what I’ve read, though I will need more experience before I can really judge to what extent it also suffers from downsides of both, how it compares to either on its own. But for a new oil painting student who is working under the constraints I am (limited space, no real studio, wanting to avoid toxic solvents/fumes, & wanting relatively reasonable dry times) it seems like it was a good choice. It should enable me to at least get familiar enough with the medium to get a better feel for whether it’s something I want to invest more in. And I know I can do underpainting in acrylic, or sketch under-drawings, or other options, but if I end up deciding I need access to the textures that you can only achieve with solvents, or if I want them for underpaintings, I can always just do those layers outdoors & let them evaporate before moving indoors for the layers with the nontoxic, fume-free stuff (I know they sell this medium as a gel too, but I don’t know how it compares to something like Liquin original or Galkyd in terms of fat-over-lean, in terms of texture & consistency… Still, for its benefits, I’m curious to look into it more. The hardest thing to adjust to in oil painting, for me, frankly, has just been the differences in brush management/maintenance compared to acrylics (in watercolors it’s pretty effortless). In acrylics, I’m so used to just having a clean & a dirty cup of water around all the time… If you want better flow, dip your brush in the clean water & dab it off a little. If you want to clean your brush quickly & thoroughly between colors, just give it a quick rinse & scrub in the dirty water, dry it off on paper towel or a disposable sponge or whatever, & repeat until no more color comes out… It IS a bit annoying in acrylic that you have to actually get up & more thoroughly hand-soap-wash your brushes every so many minutes to prevent any acrylic from drying in them, especially if you use a lot of brushes (makes palette knife/scraper/sponge attractive- I’ll tell you that!)… But as far as cleaning a color off between loading with a different color, it’s so easy & quick to just rinse the brush out with water, & it’s very gentle on the brushes. On the other hand, since you don’t want water in your oil painting brushes, from what I gather that doesn’t seem to really be an option. It’s hard to find answers about what to do to clean them off between colors- most of what comes up is about how you can do more thorough deep-cleaning after a painting session… The best I could find was to use some Dawn dish soap, but it was hard to tell for sure whether they intended it for the purpose I was looking for. Can you do that? Just keep a cup with some Dawn & dab the previous color off into that, wipe it dry on a towel, & keep going without any water to rinse the soap remnants or anything? I worry about whether that will be bad for the brushes (I always feel inclined to use water to fully rinse anything I put into them), but I guess if other people use turpentine or mineral spirits or whatever for this purpose, then they can probably survive some soap… If anyone has any other answers/alternatives/feedback about whether you can use the dish soap for that purpose, or if it should only be used once in a while, between sessions, I’d appreciate it. I have seen at least one person say that with oils you can just wipe them off on a towel/paper towel between colors & that’s adequate, but I found that especially with certain colors, that REALLY doesn’t get them out, & I try to be mindful about not leaving traces in my brush & creating mud (I know some people simply have different brushes for different colors/values to minimize that, but I’ve never HAD to do that as long as I was thorough cleaning them out with other mediums, so if there’s a solution that will clean them out pretty thoroughly between colors without a huge to-do, that would be a great help. It still feels so strange not to ever be able to just dip them in water- it’s such a big part of every other medium I’ve ever used (except for alcohol inks). Maybe I just need a cup of safflower oil or something; iirc I think I remember someone mentioning something like that for quick-cleaning brushes… They definitely mentioned dipping the brushes in it to keep them wet between sessions if you’ll be painting again less than a few days apart.
Superb video, your experience and technical knowledge shines through. Coming on stuck with some technical issues, and really helpful to hear your view. Thank you
A lot of useful info about Liquin. Something between suspension and gel. I can't live without it, to be honest. Painting can be touch dry next day! It stinks, really do! However, I put a bit on palette, spread it with brush across mixing area and mix colours. That allow me to use less medium. Overall, like Andrew Tischler said, no more than 25% of medium! Great video.
Hi, I have also just discovered your channel, and its super informative how you explain everything. Thank you. I have never used liquin, but have heard of it. Not good in my small space, maybe I ll use it in the summer month, when I can open all windows. Great channel.
Wow crazy good video thank you so much! I haven't painted in a few years so this is new to me. Now I have a hurry up order and I needed hurry up answers a thousand thank yous!
I'm from New Zealand, but I'd be surprised if the cap thread sizes were different. I replace the childproof caps with the caps from our local wine bottle tops. We've largely given up on the use of cork for wine bottles, and the replacement wine caps fit perfectly. I use those with the silvered inner seal like those inside the childproof medium tops. Six months on , no drying mediums, strange reactions or sticking caps. The childproofs seem to be fine until they gum up with medium, and I've found this solution to be excellent. I rince first with plain water to remove wine traces and set aside to dry for a few days incase there's a trace of water hidden under the seal edge. I imagine there maybe other bottle tops that work just as well.
Very informative and exactly solves my purpose and doubt that i have with liquin. I also have nightmares with linseed oil and now i can surely say that liquin will be my best mate
Wow this is an excellent explanation. I absolutely love Liquin compared to other mediums I've tried but I haven't concerned myself as much with the fat over lean rules. I use it as a top glaze only but I now will rethink this. Maybe I need to find another medium better suited to this habit.
When I started learning oil painting I started the traditional way Linseed oil and Turps. Liquid came onto my radar and was skeptical of it - avoided it for quite some time. Then one day I thought I'd give it a go and love it lol. Although I still use the traditional methods from time to time so not to lose that skill.
Hi and thanks for taking the time to teach 🎨 I just bought my first bottle of liquid - and used it -not correctly I’ve learned since watching your video- I was using galkyd and gamsol on my first few layers then came in with liquid - can liquid and gallyd be used together 🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️
Hello. Merci pour cette excellente vidéo. Est-ce qu'on garde toujours la même proportion de liquin, tout au long de la réalisation d'un tableau, à la 2ème, 3ème, 4ème couche? Ou faut-il, à chaque couche, augmenter la proportion de liquin selon la règle du gras sur maigre? Hélène
One of my favorite emotive seascape painters, Albert Pinkham Ryder was (unfortunately for archival purposes) a master of delamination - he experimented with many methods and mediums to create his works, some of which were…incompatible with time. But I kind of love that… the pieces had/ have a unique life expectancy. I don’t know, there’s a kind of poetic melancholy in this which matches his painting’s imagery. Of course, a nightmare for restoration. Though if museums are willing to reattach straw to an Anselm Keifer, I guess moody old seascapes in wonky oil paint can’t be too challenging, yeah?
There is a beauty to historic art that disappears... many blue skies have turned Grey and saturation lost. Your comment reminds me of the sand art people make on beaches that disappear with high tide.
Im glad you addressed the whole "Oil painting is toxic" thing which many youtube artists bleat on about, and puts off many new people - which irritates me greatly. Common sense approach and research the medium - you could argue any paint medium can be toxic lol. Liquin I avoided for sometime, was skeptical of it and enjoyed the linseed and turps approach lol. Then one day i though lets give this stuff a go .... And i was impressed with it.
I really needed this info about liquid. I was concerned about using linseed oil and liquid at the same time. And the ratio also. But still not understanding a glaze situation. Do you have to wait for linseed oil cut paint to dry, before you use liquin?
Best video about Liquin! I like the impasto version especially. Q: where oh where did you get your extra large brush washer that I see in this video? I've been searching for one and haven't yet found an extra large one.
@@tannersteedart I'm a bit worried I might have messed up with the fat over lean thing on a few paintings already lol...we'll see I guess:) But at least I've only done a few so far...new info absorbed:)
Great guide! That was really helpful:) Can you combine and paint with the liquin over another medium? Let’s say I made my first layer (of moderate thickness) with a linseed oil or turpentine, let it dry and now I want to add more transparent layer with liquin. Will that be ok for the painting?
Great video! Should the amount of Liquin stay the same in every Layer of the painting? I am a bit confused with that because everey layer should be fatter than the one underneath..
Love your video. If I have multiple layers in one painting, Do I must use liquid original for all my layers? Can I only use liquin original only at the first layer? Thank you.
Thanks for your very useful explanation. May I use Windsor & Newton liquin with Talens oil colors? Does this media produce peeling or cracking the color because I paint on reverse side of glass!??
I have a failed oil that I cut into strips to make a collage. I’m planning on gluing the strips to another canvas with regular glue and then spraying it with some type of sealant. Do you see any issues with my plan?
Great video. Thank you! Can Liquin be used in the same way with W+N water soluble oils? I'm a beginner and trying these paints to avoid air contamination due to allergies/asthma of family members.
Liquin is an alkyd product, that means it is not subject to the "sinking in" effects of linseed oil and other oil based mediums. (The drying out of the oil film as the pigments dry and soak up the oils, causing a matte area of lighter tones because of the lessened refractive index.) 20% Liquin is about the maximum amount you should mix into your paint, and 20% and more WILL yellow your pigments to a slight extent. Because Liquin is an alkyd, it's considered a resin, not an oil. Resins yellow, and can also "cry". Crying is when they begin to separate out of the oil film, due to over mixing them into the oil medium. This is less an issue for alkyds, but others such as amber, casin or pine resins have this problem to bear in mind. Fat over Lean refers to the fat content in the medium, whereas thick over thin is how to apply such layers in succession. You got the basic idea, but... that is not how Liquin or alkyd products cure, they are not oils, technically they are resin soaps. They respire solvents at which time they solidify, very much like acrylics except instead of water, they respire solvents. This is why if they are trapped behind oil layers they can "cry" years after the painting has seemingly dried. Natural Pigments (Rublev) recommends steering away from any resins in a painting for the best, longest lasting paint film possible. Delaminations occur when a paint layer with alkyds is used underneath below an oil based medium, then much later, possibly decades later, the alkyd begins to move separate from the motion that the oil medium layer moves, neither can adhere to one another due to micro "crying" between layers and one pulls away from the other.
So with this logic, one should never paint a base layer with liquin and then use slow drying oil mediums in subsequent layers because this could result in crying/delamination decades later?
@@tannersteedart All this has cabiots, one being how you have mixed the paint into the Liquin, and by how much, and how long you have allowed the layer to expell solvent within... what layers you have used over top of this, but yes, it seems by layers paint using linseed oil over top of Liquin can lead to issues. As an alkyd, the resin will age differently than another medium will. There is a lot of research that shows that pure linseed oil, and linseed oil derivatives, (Stand oil) create the longest lasting and strongest paint films which adhere to one another better than others (for aforementioned reasons,) or those that have combinations.
@@tannersteedart Personally, I think a better term would have been "sweating" because this seems to happen more with regard to current alkyd issues, but there is extensive information given out by Rublev and their Natural Pigments videos.
@@chrisgriffith1573 if I use liquin as a medium does that mean I shouldn’t use linseed oil to oil out before varnishing? So I’m supposed to use linseed oil as a medium (instead of liquin because liquin is a glaze) and for oiling out I could use linseed oil again or galkyd since it is fast drying. If I use liquin as medium then galkyd for oiling out before varnish would the “double glazing effect” cause any problems?
Thank you ! Amazing ! I started painting in oil since 2014 One legendary painter taught me To paint with Liquin. One question. I see shine on my paintings in different spots. Probably because I haven’t mixed the liquin well the way you do. And used it as I go just like mixing water to water colors 😂
That effect can be resolved if you use varnish. What you are seeing is what is refferrrd to as "sinking in". It is the uneven surface quality that naturally occurs when painting with different pigments with a variety of oil content. It is common to experience it with earth pigment such as raw umber and ivory black. So just a gloss varnish to create a consistent surface quality to your painting.
Hi I have a question Could you please tell me what is 4 k magic fluid for ioil painting? I know only it is a type of varnish but I don't know what is the difference between that with the regular varnish.
oh i want you to know that i hit the like thumbs up not because you said to, i watched the whole video before liking any thing , thank you for shearing your knowledge on oil painting , i have been painting long time and i thought i would give this Liquin a try , i will let you know how i like it , thanks again Mack
@@tannersteedart hey 👋, I am glad I made your day, I tried it out and I like it, it makes the paint glide smoother then with out it or is just me ?? , I do oil paintings but I like to do a lot of detailing in my work and blend it all in I don’t want it to dry to fast 💨 on me I love doing mid evil Time with cobblestone and castle 🏰 with dragon 🐉 and oil painting of in side of those 11th century inside of them very old churches, any help for you would be a blessing, keep up the great videos, I will watch to learn as much as I can, I just turned 60 years old on the 15th of may , I was at a artist classes, I paid for it and I heard this young lady about 25 years old and made A commitment about me being to old to learn about oil painting . That really hurt but I am not going to let that stop me from my passion and love for oil painting , I am wondering if I should report her there was a lady there the same age as me and she heard it as well, but anyway thank you very much for your videos , have a great weekend bro 😎
I am so glad to have found your channel, I was Searching to learn more about Liquin and how to apply it and when to apply it and I stumbled on your channel and said to myself yeah OK I’ll give it a try I’ll watch it now I subscribed I am glad I did
Coming from a Acrylic background I find it easier to put my mediums into plastic squeeze bottles. That way I can put out exact porportions depending on the amount of paint I'm using. I'm switching to oils now and I was wondering if I could put Liquin into a plastic container? Chris
That is an interesting way to go about it! Liquin dries very quickly, therefore if you were to put it into a container with a narrow spout, the spout will likely crust over and be unusable. I could see it working if you managed to keep the end very clean by removing as much residue as possible every time that you squeezed it out. Try it out, but I feel the best option is to fill empty paint tubes with liquin for ease of use. If you have not already, check out last weeks video.
@@tannersteedart Actually it works really well. I have one of those plastic bottles with a little spout and a little cap that goes back on right after using so it dosen't get gunky. I was more concerned about it having Petroleum distillates in it and maybe going through the plastic. But I have some Oderless Paint thinner that I bought and it's in a plastic container and I think it may be more caustic than liquin. Thanks love the videos. Chris
What an incredibly helpful video! Just discovered you today and immediately subscribed! 🤩 I am a painter who normally used acrylics, but then a few years ago I moved to Italy and started studying with a teacher here who got me back into oils. (I never really understood how to use oil paint before, hence the focus on acrylics 😋) Once I understood better how to use oil paint, I was hooked. I LOVE the work I do now, and I am always intrigued to find out the varying ways people use oils. In the classes I took, the teacher told us to mix 50% Liquin with 50% linseed oil in a jar, and then had us mix our paints on the palette. From there we would dip our brush into the Liquin mix and then drag it through a bit of our paint, mix it a bit, and then apply to the canvas (kinda like water and with water colors in a way, though the ratio was not quite that extreme). I was curious what your take on this is? I have to say, some (but not all) of my paintings do have a bit of a yellow-ish tint to them, and I’m thinking now that perhaps I’ve just got way too much of my medium in basically all my paint? - Anyway, sorry for the ramble. 🙃 Thanks so much for this excellently produced video and all the good info therein. Looking forward to learning more from you!
First of all thank you for the support! It means the world to me that you will continue watching my videos! I like the idea of dipping into a jar and then mixing it with the paint. But when you do this, you run the risk of mixing inconsistent quantities of medium into your mixtures. I prefer to have all of my paints consistently mixed with liquin and then I freely paint with very little extra medium at all. All of your paintings will yellow when you use oil paint. It's a natural process that CAN be reversed! Just place your painting near a window and allow the sun to reverse the process. After a few a day of sitting near a window the yellowing will go away. Naturally, the yellowing will return, but now you know how to fix it. 😀
Makes painting in oils MUCH easier. Be prepared for it to dry a little sooner than you might want, in some applications. Good for multiple-layer paintings.....tends to dry too quickly for very smooth glazing. Give it a try!
We all have our faves but for n I found decades ago that liquid helps paint dry fast but also leaves a plastic look so I have always mixed 1/4 liquid with 1/4 stand oil and 1/2 linseed oil. This helps it dry faster and the stand oil adds gloss but with normal linseed oil it prevents what I personally experience is a plastic feel and look.
Hey tanner interesting information! I enjoy liquin also for its glazing qualities but you mentioned to avoid putting thing layers over a dry to the touch layer of paint, does that apply only to paint made thin with solvents rather than with liquin? thanks
If it has been a significant period of time, and the painting has dried, you can use liquin on top of a dry to the touch surface. If you just used solvents, the paint is very thin, and it is dry to the touch, then I would feel comfortable using liquin on the subsequent layers.
Can I do liquin layers last, over regular paint layers?? My thought is I can establish colors and what I want it to look like them add texture at the end. I paint with gouache usually but I'm starting oils very soon.
Excellent question! Unfortunately, you should not do that. It is unwise to put a fast drying paint over a slow drying paint. This causes cracking and potential delamination (the upper layers could peel right off of the painting). It is best practice to use liquin during every stage of the painting, but you can vary the ratio of liquin to paint. You can achieve all that you want in the under layers and eliminate the possibility of cracking if you add liquin in ALL your premixtures for every layer. You can have your cake and eat it too. 😋
I am used to using alkyd as a sealing layer so I can glaze on top and wipe away if i need to , can you use liquin that way too? Also, if i am putting varying amounts of liquin (depending on my paint) like anywhere from 15 percent in a white lets say and using a 5 percent mixuture in a black paint on the same layer, then on top I am using another percents up to 20, will there be cracking issues? basically I ask. because every paint tube is different
I wouldn't worry about cracking, as long as you have liquin in every mixture. Yes, you can glaze the top and wipe it away if you do not like it. As long as the mixture beneath is adequately dry. Test in a small area, and then you should be fine.
Is it possible to premix all of my oil colours in my palette with liquin and then begin to paint diluting this paint with a traditional medium or solvent to make the paint more liquid?
Hi, thanks for doing these videos. I am starting to take my paintings with more and more heavy brush strokes and texture. I have Liquid Impasto and would like to ask you on any tips / advice on using this product?...Thanks, Henry
I'm glad you're finding the information valuable. I use liquin impasto more than I use regular liquin these days. It's so much easier to travel with, as I'm constantly moving around. Use the same ratio as I stated it the video. The paint will have a thicker viscosity, and the texture of brush strokes will be retained. I'd also recommend checking out liquin oleopaste. It's another gel alkyd medium that provides a stringy texture to your paint. I hope this helps. Join the livestream sometime to chat.
I’m giving up Liquin because it yellows over time. I’ve read that if that happens, you can put it in indirect sunlight for a couple of hours to get rid of the yellow, but I haven’t tried it. I’m switching to neo megilp and gamsol. Another artist is giving up all mediums just to be safe.
Nothing wrong with that! I've been working with Daniel Sprick, and he uses liquin in the majority of his work. He says that he has not seen the yellowing that people talk about. But it could be that his paintings are generally well lit. I love other mediums too. Another favorite is oleogel by natural pigments.
Yes, it will dry quicker. But it will remain usable for days if you use an airtight container, place in a refrigerator, and / or add clove oil to cotton balls in the airtight container.
I have been painting for maybe 15 years … was never a fan of liquid. I see the merit, but don’t like how flat it can dry. I use my own medium that is traditional oil based. I say if it ain’t broke it does not have to be fixed. I like my paint to dry slow. But informative video, thanks!
So I’m doing a city scape with a large area being sunset. Was going to use thinner rather than liquin. I want it to be a flat background but interesting sky. Cityscape being done (ideally) impasto. Would you recommend turps or liquin ?
If you have been using liquin in previous layers, then use liquin and transparent colors. But if you have not been using liquin up to this point, DO NOT USE LIQUIN. This would cause cracking and disadhesion due to the layer of liquin drying significantly faster than the paint below. If you have not been using liquin, I would advise using a mixture of linseed oil and turp to thin the paint. Always remember fat over lean, or more oil over less oil conent in the paint.
@@tannersteedart the linseed will slow drying time though wouldn’t it ? It’s the first coat. Covering a large area and I need to blend. Was thinking turps may be too quick to dry and wouldn’t blend so well.
Great video Tanner! Clear tips - what medium do you suggest for glazing? Can you also make a video on varnishing - best methods and tools for longevity. Great content and keep up the good work! 😸 Did you use 20% liquin for the hair 😂 too
Hahaha surprisingly I did not use liquin in my hair. I love oleogel combined with gamsol for glazing. I'll make a video on glazing soon. And I have a quick tip on vanishing on an older painting that you should check out!
@@tannersteedart thank you for the info. I have seen the video on varnishing but for us in the EU we don't have access to gamblin products so we have to find other ways
![[FULL EP.69] #เอิร์นจิรวรรณ เปิดบ้านหมื่นล้านทุกมุม ครั้งแรก! l เคหสถานบานปลาย l One Playground](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_J4_nw8c64o/mqdefault.jpg)
Good information for those that haven't used it before. It is indeed a great medium if you know how to use it correctly and its properties appeal to your working style. The semi gloss and speed of drying are unparalleled, especially when painting in multiple very thin layers, Please allow me to add some information that might prevent some frustration in new users of Liquin:
This medium dries faster than you might imagine. Even after only 1 hour, you feel a noticible difference in consistency.
I would therefore NOT recommend to mix all colors with Liquin at the start of your session, especially if your sessions take usually longer than 1 hour. After 3 hours, it will be so sticky that you won't be able to paint smooth brushstrokes!
My advice is, to put only a little bit of Liquin on the palet (you can always add more later) and add it only at the moment of mixing your paint.
Keep the thread on the bottle and the cap absolutely clean, otherwise it can get really difficult to open it the next time. I don't pour it out, but let it flow only right up to the opening and scoop some out with a palet knife.
Wipe off used palet knives immediately after use. When you're switching brushes during your session and expect a certain brush not to used for a while, wipe the remaining paint/Liquin mixture off with a cloth or paper towel.
Thanks for this Information! Do you know how to oil out when using liquin in the layer/layers underneath? Should I just use liquin to oil out or linseed oil mixed with oderless mineral spirits?
@@maxkoch3232 Good question. I never had a need to oil out, so I haven't done it (yet). I use Liquin in all layers (never more than 1 part Liquin to 3 parts paint) and I paint usually very thin layers and slowly, so there's no fat over lean issue. Also, I use Liquin "Light Gel" as my standard medium, which already produces more of a gloss than Liquin Original. However, if I would want to oil out, I would not use Liquin, but only just a touch of linseed oil, that i would rub over the surface. There is a short video on "Draw Mix Paint" showing that approach.
If you use high quality paints like Michael Harding or Old Holland, these nightmare scenarios you mentioned don't happen. I always use Walnut oil mixed with gamsol and a lot of patience. Haste makes waste. Wait weeks - less if weather and/or painting in thin layers - coat with retouch varnish. In 6 months to a year, coat with Damar varnish.
I’m a senior who took up painting later in life. I am so grateful for the instruction and education you’ve shared here. I’ve been using Liquin incorrectly, and I think my painting is going to improve greatly from learning how it should be used. Happy to have found your channel. Thankyou.
It is truly fantastic to hear that! I am so glad you are finding the information useful.
I’m a painter looking at being a physicist later in life 🥸
From my ten years experience of oil painting , Linseed Oil must be added with Liquin to the Tube Oil paint at a ratio of approxiametely 20% : 15% : 65%. Mix it thoroughly until it becomes a creamy smooth paste. Important note :1) shake the bottle of Liquin thoroughly before using. 2) squeeze and massage the tube of paint before opening , this mixes the contents and prevents , linseed oil dribbling out of tube.
great tip, do you know if you can retard liquin drying time if you mix it with lindseed oil? i like liquin but it dries way too fast.
@@martinr9618 Yes you can. My version is adding about 25% standard liquin to linseed oil or slightly less. Depending on other factors it slows down the drying time by about a third resulting in it being a lot easier to work with. I haven't seen any problems with it yet but I've only been using this mix about a year.
Great info! A tip I got from another artist is to keep your liquin in a squeeze bottle, only doling out the amount you need on each individual paint. No mess, none leftover, and less unnecessary toxin exposed.
That's a great tip!
Thank you! Confusion over mediums kept me away from oils for years until I found liquid. Now, with your help, I understand more about how I should be using it.
Excellent! Glad to help. I've used it in all of my recent paintings. If you'd like to check them out, I'm on IG @tannersteedart and my website is tannersteedart.com.
Let me know if you have any further questions about liquin!
Just purchased my first bottle of Liquin and realised I needed good info on its use! Found your video so helpful and full of information on use of Liquin and also the safety aspects. Many thanks. Can’t wait to give it a try now..
I'm so glad you found it helpful!
Thank you Tanner. I haven't used oil paints in years. But now I want to give it another go. In the past, I've been using way too much liquin in the paint/liquin ratio. You have inspired me.
I'm so glad! It's truly my pleasure. Thanks for watching.
I'm a completely amateur in drawing/painting and i highly appreciate you making the time to answer every single question in the comments. You're literally so kind 🥺
You are so welcome! Let me know if you have any additional questions, and keep practicing. There is no such thing as an in born talent, it's all hard work.
You may find my patreon useful! I have a few tiers with a lot of extra content coming very soon!
Wow! I am new to oil painting and a friend told me to use Liquin to speed drying time. I am really glad I watched your video to find out the correct way to use it. Great information.
My pleasure! Thank you for the support!
Extremely helpful video! I've been painting in oils for 20 years and I'm just now starting to look into mixing Liquin Original into my paints so that I don't have to wait forever for my paintings to dry. You have given me some excellent advice and I appreciate your expertise on this subject. I'll be looking into your other videos. Thanks mucho!
I'm so glad I've helped you! Everyone's art improves when we share our experiences
You’re great man, keep up the great positive vibes! Very informative!
Thanks for watching!
Hi Tanner, Thank you very much for your very informative video. I discovered you a few days ago & saw your video on stages of lean to fat applications. You are very thorough. So I discovered Liquin in the late 1980s and only used it as a 'glue' as I liked to stick beads & things on my oil paintings. After all these years not one piece has fallen off! I only recently started to use Liquin as a medium and I was very careful as I didn't know just how far I could go. So thank you for showing us the correct ratios. I love your energy ♥
I am so glad you're enjoying the videos! Feel free to ask any follow-up questions, as I'm happy to help. Thanks for your support!
As he mentions, the vapor is harmful because Liquin is a type of alkyd resin, nasty smelly stuff!
For sensitive painters, look to Natural Pigments, they make an excellent pretty much odorless alternative that I switched to called Oleogel, although slower drying than Liquin. They also make some great non toxic putty and impasto mediums, long before Winsor Newton. And an amazing selection of paint (Rublev) that include unusual and historic pigments.
Where do you find Oleogel? I tried Jerry's,..not there or the Rublev site. Is it discontinued? Thanks.
Thanks alot... I was starting a new painting and thought of using liquin .. this video really helped me out... ☺☺
I have painted mostly with acrylic for half a century. I love using oil for its blending ability. One thing I would again warn people is to ventilate their work area. I have lost several artist friends to cancer who were exposed to solvents daily... Great video. Thanks.
How can you keep the area ventilated if you live in a place where it is -20 -30 degrees in winter?? It's impossible for me to keep the windows open for several hours in winter with this cold
To be safe, use another medium, watercolor, acrylics, charcoal, etc. etc. you can create great art with any of these choices
Really good info. Thanks! I’ve only just started oil painting (coming from acrylics & watercolor). I did a bunch of research first, but because I don’t have a big studio, don’t want to have to deal with open windows & such for every single painting session (if I start using turpentine or other solvent-containing products then obviously I’ll have to for those sessions), mostly working in my room, I decided to start with Gamblin’s solvent-free fluid medium (alkyd+safflower oil), & I may have to re-evaluate as I try more mediums/solvents & get a better feel as to what serves my needs for full paintings, but I will say- so far I really like the stuff. No VOCs (nontoxic & it smells pretty good), it mixes with the paints pretty effortlessly… Compared to heavy bodied acrylics, where you really have to take a few minutes to mash all the lumps out & slowly work it into a thorough, homogenous mixture with any kind of medium, it’s pretty cool to basically just be able to stir it around until the pigment fills out the medium & have it basically become uniform in a few seconds (more like the effort of mixing fluid acrylics into medium). It seems to provide a very nice flow & transparency (depending on how much you add, with even a little bit really going a long way to make the paint workable)… I find the fast drying times of acrylics really convenient (I don’t have a lot of spaces where I can store a painting to dry for days on end with good air flow & sunlight & without any risk of contamination)… It’s really nice that a layer of acrylic is basically dry by the time I’m done with it & I don’t have to worry about that- but I also hate how difficult it is to do really subtle gradients or fades in acrylic… So I LOVE the things you can do with oils that that same property of acrylics makes extremely difficult… I can absolutely see why people like the slow dry times, in terms of being able to lay paints out on a palette & mix & not have to worry about them drying up mid-session (I find myself doing a lot of mixing from tubes as I go in acrylics rather than having everything on a palette at once, & it’s a lot less convenient than either oils or watercolors, though it works). But, moreover, just being able to put some paint down on the surface & then take as long as I want to slooowly feather it out, soften edges (all the way to a fade to the background color, blend colors smoothly… It’s very nice. And the solvent-free alkyd/safflower oil medium seems to work really well for all of these purposes in moderation. I like that it has a reasonable dry time- it feels like a good compromise between the benefits of oils & alkyds from what I’ve read, though I will need more experience before I can really judge to what extent it also suffers from downsides of both, how it compares to either on its own. But for a new oil painting student who is working under the constraints I am (limited space, no real studio, wanting to avoid toxic solvents/fumes, & wanting relatively reasonable dry times) it seems like it was a good choice. It should enable me to at least get familiar enough with the medium to get a better feel for whether it’s something I want to invest more in. And I know I can do underpainting in acrylic, or sketch under-drawings, or other options, but if I end up deciding I need access to the textures that you can only achieve with solvents, or if I want them for underpaintings, I can always just do those layers outdoors & let them evaporate before moving indoors for the layers with the nontoxic, fume-free stuff (I know they sell this medium as a gel too, but I don’t know how it compares to something like Liquin original or Galkyd in terms of fat-over-lean, in terms of texture & consistency… Still, for its benefits, I’m curious to look into it more.
The hardest thing to adjust to in oil painting, for me, frankly, has just been the differences in brush management/maintenance compared to acrylics (in watercolors it’s pretty effortless). In acrylics, I’m so used to just having a clean & a dirty cup of water around all the time… If you want better flow, dip your brush in the clean water & dab it off a little. If you want to clean your brush quickly & thoroughly between colors, just give it a quick rinse & scrub in the dirty water, dry it off on paper towel or a disposable sponge or whatever, & repeat until no more color comes out… It IS a bit annoying in acrylic that you have to actually get up & more thoroughly hand-soap-wash your brushes every so many minutes to prevent any acrylic from drying in them, especially if you use a lot of brushes (makes palette knife/scraper/sponge attractive- I’ll tell you that!)… But as far as cleaning a color off between loading with a different color, it’s so easy & quick to just rinse the brush out with water, & it’s very gentle on the brushes.
On the other hand, since you don’t want water in your oil painting brushes, from what I gather that doesn’t seem to really be an option. It’s hard to find answers about what to do to clean them off between colors- most of what comes up is about how you can do more thorough deep-cleaning after a painting session… The best I could find was to use some Dawn dish soap, but it was hard to tell for sure whether they intended it for the purpose I was looking for. Can you do that? Just keep a cup with some Dawn & dab the previous color off into that, wipe it dry on a towel, & keep going without any water to rinse the soap remnants or anything? I worry about whether that will be bad for the brushes (I always feel inclined to use water to fully rinse anything I put into them), but I guess if other people use turpentine or mineral spirits or whatever for this purpose, then they can probably survive some soap…
If anyone has any other answers/alternatives/feedback about whether you can use the dish soap for that purpose, or if it should only be used once in a while, between sessions, I’d appreciate it. I have seen at least one person say that with oils you can just wipe them off on a towel/paper towel between colors & that’s adequate, but I found that especially with certain colors, that REALLY doesn’t get them out, & I try to be mindful about not leaving traces in my brush & creating mud (I know some people simply have different brushes for different colors/values to minimize that, but I’ve never HAD to do that as long as I was thorough cleaning them out with other mediums, so if there’s a solution that will clean them out pretty thoroughly between colors without a huge to-do, that would be a great help. It still feels so strange not to ever be able to just dip them in water- it’s such a big part of every other medium I’ve ever used (except for alcohol inks). Maybe I just need a cup of safflower oil or something; iirc I think I remember someone mentioning something like that for quick-cleaning brushes… They definitely mentioned dipping the brushes in it to keep them wet between sessions if you’ll be painting again less than a few days apart.
Best liquin lesson ever! Love the depth of knowledge.
It's my pleasure! Thank you for the enthusiasm!
Gosh this is the most helpful video ever. Thank you so much!
It's my pleasure! If you would like individualized support I offer zoom critiques on Patreon.
Thank you! This has been so informative and helpful! 🤩
My pleasure!
Thanks for taking the time to produce this video.......it's a great help!!!!!
It's my pleasure! Thanks for watching
Superb video, your experience and technical knowledge shines through. Coming on stuck with some technical issues, and really helpful to hear your view. Thank you
My pleasure! Thank you for the kind comment! Glad the video helped.
A lot of useful info about Liquin. Something between suspension and gel. I can't live without it, to be honest. Painting can be touch dry next day! It stinks, really do! However, I put a bit on palette, spread it with brush across mixing area and mix colours. That allow me to use less medium. Overall, like Andrew Tischler said, no more than 25% of medium! Great video.
Hi, I have also just discovered your channel, and its super informative how you explain everything. Thank you. I have never used liquin, but have heard of it. Not good in my small space, maybe I ll use it in the summer month, when I can open all windows. Great channel.
You're right, it's a good idea to have proper ventilation when using liquin. I like to keep a fan blowing and windows open as a minimum.
I am a beginner and I wanted to thank you for explaining how to correctly use liquin. From London UK 👋
Wow crazy good video thank you so much! I haven't painted in a few years so this is new to me. Now I have a hurry up order and I needed hurry up answers a thousand thank yous!
My pleasure! I am so glad you found it helpful.
I'm from New Zealand, but I'd be surprised if the cap thread sizes were different. I replace the childproof caps with the caps from our local wine bottle tops. We've largely given up on the use of cork for wine bottles, and the replacement wine caps fit perfectly. I use those with the silvered inner seal like those inside the childproof medium tops. Six months on , no drying mediums, strange reactions or sticking caps. The childproofs seem to be fine until they gum up with medium, and I've found this solution to be excellent. I rince first with plain water to remove wine traces and set aside to dry for a few days incase there's a trace of water hidden under the seal edge. I imagine there maybe other bottle tops that work just as well.
Excellent advice, thank you!
I do some Vaseline on the screw from the cap. I don’t like the cap take to much strong muscles what I don’t have.
Very informative and exactly solves my purpose and doubt that i have with liquin. I also have nightmares with linseed oil and now i can surely say that liquin will be my best mate
I'm glad you found this helpful. Liquin is certainly my best mate, and I'm sure you'll find it to be yours too.
Wow this is an excellent explanation. I absolutely love Liquin compared to other mediums I've tried but I haven't concerned myself as much with the fat over lean rules. I use it as a top glaze only but I now will rethink this. Maybe I need to find another medium better suited to this habit.
I use liquin for most of my paintings. It's such a great tool. Thanks for your comment and support!
The best video about how to use Liquin¡, I cant wait to try it¡ , Thanks Tanner
Great to hear!
thanx Tanner, i m on my way to a quality art supplies store in Spain, might get some liquin...keep up the good work.
Thank you, and great choice!
When I started learning oil painting I started the traditional way Linseed oil and Turps. Liquid came onto my radar and was skeptical of it - avoided it for quite some time. Then one day I thought I'd give it a go and love it lol. Although I still use the traditional methods from time to time so not to lose that skill.
Hi and thanks for taking the time to teach 🎨 I just bought my first bottle of liquid - and used it -not correctly I’ve learned since watching your video- I was using galkyd and gamsol on my first few layers then came in with liquid - can liquid and gallyd be used together 🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️🤷🏽♀️
Hello. Merci pour cette excellente vidéo.
Est-ce qu'on garde toujours la même proportion de liquin, tout au long de la réalisation d'un tableau, à la 2ème, 3ème, 4ème couche? Ou faut-il, à chaque couche, augmenter la proportion de liquin selon la règle du gras sur maigre?
Hélène
thank you Tanner really helpful!
My pleasure!!
You just got rid of all my headaches. Thank you!
Glad it this was helful!
Thanks for this! Great info and we’ll explained 🎉
Just discovered your channel. So well explained, thank you! Subscribed immediately!😉
Welcome aboard! I am glad you found this useful.
Thanks for all your help.
My pleasure!
One of my favorite emotive seascape painters, Albert Pinkham Ryder was (unfortunately for archival purposes) a master of delamination - he experimented with many methods and mediums to create his works, some of which were…incompatible with time.
But I kind of love that… the pieces had/ have a unique life expectancy. I don’t know, there’s a kind of poetic melancholy in this which matches his painting’s imagery.
Of course, a nightmare for restoration. Though if museums are willing to reattach straw to an Anselm Keifer, I guess moody old seascapes in wonky oil paint can’t be too challenging, yeah?
There is a beauty to historic art that disappears... many blue skies have turned Grey and saturation lost. Your comment reminds me of the sand art people make on beaches that disappear with high tide.
Great info , thanks so much!!
Im glad you addressed the whole "Oil painting is toxic" thing which many youtube artists bleat on about, and puts off many new people - which irritates me greatly. Common sense approach and research the medium - you could argue any paint medium can be toxic lol. Liquin I avoided for sometime, was skeptical of it and enjoyed the linseed and turps approach lol. Then one day i though lets give this stuff a go .... And i was impressed with it.
I really needed this info about liquid. I was concerned about using linseed oil and liquid at the same time. And the ratio also. But still not understanding a glaze situation. Do you have to wait for linseed oil cut paint to dry, before you use liquin?
Best video about Liquin!
I like the impasto version especially.
Q: where oh where did you get your extra large brush washer that I see in this video?
I've been searching for one and haven't yet found an extra large one.
I found it on Jerry's artarama. I do not remember the brand and there is no label on the container, but I know I purchased it there.
Excellent orientation to Liquin--well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
cheers for this - I have been a bit confused about liquin - been chopping and changing between that and linseed...good info - subbed
Glad I could help! Let me know of you have any further questions.
@@tannersteedart I'm a bit worried I might have messed up with the fat over lean thing on a few paintings already lol...we'll see I guess:) But at least I've only done a few so far...new info absorbed:)
Great guide! That was really helpful:) Can you combine and paint with the liquin over another medium? Let’s say I made my first layer (of moderate thickness) with a linseed oil or turpentine, let it dry and now I want to add more transparent layer with liquin. Will that be ok for the painting?
Great video! Thanks so much!
My pleasure!
Very informative and helpful video. Thanks!
My pleasure. Glad you found it so
This was really helpful. ThankYou
I am so glad it was!
Excellent video! God bless you sir!!!!🤩🤩🤩
My pleasure!! Thank you for your support!😉👍
Great video! Should the amount of Liquin stay the same in every Layer of the painting? I am a bit confused with that because everey layer should be fatter than the one underneath..
Love your video. If I have multiple layers in one painting, Do I must use liquid original for all my layers? Can I only use liquin original only at the first layer? Thank you.
Thanks for your very useful explanation. May I use Windsor & Newton liquin with Talens oil colors? Does this media produce peeling or cracking the color because I paint on reverse side of glass!??
I need to remember this! Merci beaucoup!!😎🤓
My pleasure!😉👍😆
I have a failed oil that I cut into strips to make a collage. I’m planning on gluing the strips to another canvas with regular glue and then spraying it with some type of sealant. Do you see any issues with my plan?
new to oils thanks for sharing ! .. gonna buy liquid soon when i'm rich hopefully in August haha
Liquin is a fantastic medium although it used to irritate my throat so I stopped using it.
Thank you. Very helpful.
My pleasure
Thank you very much for this frank tips
My pleasure
Great video. Thank you! Can Liquin be used in the same way with W+N water soluble oils? I'm a beginner and trying these paints to avoid air contamination due to allergies/asthma of family members.
My professional artist introduced it to me when I started my career, and I refuse to run out of it.
Liquin is an alkyd product, that means it is not subject to the "sinking in" effects of linseed oil and other oil based mediums. (The drying out of the oil film as the pigments dry and soak up the oils, causing a matte area of lighter tones because of the lessened refractive index.)
20% Liquin is about the maximum amount you should mix into your paint, and 20% and more WILL yellow your pigments to a slight extent. Because Liquin is an alkyd, it's considered a resin, not an oil. Resins yellow, and can also "cry". Crying is when they begin to separate out of the oil film, due to over mixing them into the oil medium. This is less an issue for alkyds, but others such as amber, casin or pine resins have this problem to bear in mind.
Fat over Lean refers to the fat content in the medium, whereas thick over thin is how to apply such layers in succession. You got the basic idea, but... that is not how Liquin or alkyd products cure, they are not oils, technically they are resin soaps. They respire solvents at which time they solidify, very much like acrylics except instead of water, they respire solvents. This is why if they are trapped behind oil layers they can "cry" years after the painting has seemingly dried. Natural Pigments (Rublev) recommends steering away from any resins in a painting for the best, longest lasting paint film possible. Delaminations occur when a paint layer with alkyds is used underneath below an oil based medium, then much later, possibly decades later, the alkyd begins to move separate from the motion that the oil medium layer moves, neither can adhere to one another due to micro "crying" between layers and one pulls away from the other.
Excellent information! I had not heard of the term "crying" before this. Thanks for sharing!
So with this logic, one should never paint a base layer with liquin and then use slow drying oil mediums in subsequent layers because this could result in crying/delamination decades later?
@@tannersteedart All this has cabiots, one being how you have mixed the paint into the Liquin, and by how much, and how long you have allowed the layer to expell solvent within... what layers you have used over top of this, but yes, it seems by layers paint using linseed oil over top of Liquin can lead to issues. As an alkyd, the resin will age differently than another medium will. There is a lot of research that shows that pure linseed oil, and linseed oil derivatives, (Stand oil) create the longest lasting and strongest paint films which adhere to one another better than others (for aforementioned reasons,) or those that have combinations.
@@tannersteedart Personally, I think a better term would have been "sweating" because this seems to happen more with regard to current alkyd issues, but there is extensive information given out by Rublev and their Natural Pigments videos.
@@chrisgriffith1573 if I use liquin as a medium does that mean I shouldn’t use linseed oil to oil out before varnishing? So I’m supposed to use linseed oil as a medium (instead of liquin because liquin is a glaze) and for oiling out I could use linseed oil again or galkyd since it is fast drying. If I use liquin as medium then galkyd for oiling out before varnish would the “double glazing effect” cause any problems?
Great video!!❤
Thank you!
Awesome!❤
Excelent explanation about médium!
Tks you!
Hug
Very very useful information thank you so much
My pleasure, thanks for watching!
Very informative. Thanks!
My pleasure!
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Thank you ! Amazing !
I started painting in oil since 2014
One legendary painter taught me
To paint with Liquin.
One question. I see shine on my paintings in different spots. Probably because I haven’t mixed the liquin well the way you do. And used it as I go just like mixing water to water colors 😂
That effect can be resolved if you use varnish. What you are seeing is what is refferrrd to as "sinking in". It is the uneven surface quality that naturally occurs when painting with different pigments with a variety of oil content. It is common to experience it with earth pigment such as raw umber and ivory black. So just a gloss varnish to create a consistent surface quality to your painting.
This is really helpful 👏
I'm so glad it was! Thanks for your support!
Thank you very well spoken
Glad it was helpful!
new subm, thank you for your TIPS and the tats colors are awesome! greetings from new york ,
Thanks for the support! I'm happy to help.
Hi I have a question
Could you please tell me what is 4 k magic fluid for ioil painting? I know only it is a type of varnish but I don't know what is the difference between that with the regular varnish.
oh i want you to know that i hit the like thumbs up not because you said to, i watched the whole video before liking any thing , thank you for shearing your knowledge on oil painting , i have been painting long time and i thought i would give this Liquin a try , i will let you know how i like it , thanks again Mack
This made my day! Thank you for your support!!
@@tannersteedart hey 👋, I am glad I made your day, I tried it out and I like it, it makes the paint glide smoother then with out it or is just me ?? , I do oil paintings but I like to do a lot of detailing in my work and blend it all in I don’t want it to dry to fast 💨 on me I love doing mid evil Time with cobblestone and castle 🏰 with dragon 🐉 and oil painting of in side of those 11th century inside of them very old churches, any help for you would be a blessing, keep up the great videos, I will watch to learn as much as I can, I just turned 60 years old on the 15th of may , I was at a artist classes, I paid for it and I heard this young lady about 25 years old and made A commitment about me being to old to learn about oil painting . That really hurt but I am not going to let that stop me from my passion and love for oil painting , I am wondering if I should report her there was a lady there the same age as me and she heard it as well, but anyway thank you very much for your videos , have a great weekend bro 😎
I am so glad to have found your channel, I was Searching to learn more about Liquin and how to apply it and when to apply it and I stumbled on your channel and said to myself yeah OK I’ll give it a try I’ll watch it now I subscribed I am glad I did
Coming from a Acrylic background I find it easier to put my mediums into plastic squeeze bottles. That way I can put out exact porportions depending on the amount of paint I'm using. I'm switching to oils now and I was wondering if I could put Liquin into a plastic container? Chris
That is an interesting way to go about it! Liquin dries very quickly, therefore if you were to put it into a container with a narrow spout, the spout will likely crust over and be unusable. I could see it working if you managed to keep the end very clean by removing as much residue as possible every time that you squeezed it out. Try it out, but I feel the best option is to fill empty paint tubes with liquin for ease of use. If you have not already, check out last weeks video.
@@tannersteedart Actually it works really well. I have one of those plastic bottles with a little spout and a little cap that goes back on right after using so it dosen't get gunky. I was more concerned about it having Petroleum distillates in it and maybe going through the plastic. But I have some Oderless Paint thinner that I bought and it's in a plastic container and I think it may be more caustic than liquin. Thanks love the videos. Chris
What an incredibly helpful video! Just discovered you today and immediately subscribed! 🤩 I am a painter who normally used acrylics, but then a few years ago I moved to Italy and started studying with a teacher here who got me back into oils. (I never really understood how to use oil paint before, hence the focus on acrylics 😋) Once I understood better how to use oil paint, I was hooked. I LOVE the work I do now, and I am always intrigued to find out the varying ways people use oils. In the classes I took, the teacher told us to mix 50% Liquin with 50% linseed oil in a jar, and then had us mix our paints on the palette. From there we would dip our brush into the Liquin mix and then drag it through a bit of our paint, mix it a bit, and then apply to the canvas (kinda like water and with water colors in a way, though the ratio was not quite that extreme). I was curious what your take on this is? I have to say, some (but not all) of my paintings do have a bit of a yellow-ish tint to them, and I’m thinking now that perhaps I’ve just got way too much of my medium in basically all my paint? - Anyway, sorry for the ramble. 🙃 Thanks so much for this excellently produced video and all the good info therein. Looking forward to learning more from you!
First of all thank you for the support! It means the world to me that you will continue watching my videos!
I like the idea of dipping into a jar and then mixing it with the paint. But when you do this, you run the risk of mixing inconsistent quantities of medium into your mixtures. I prefer to have all of my paints consistently mixed with liquin and then I freely paint with very little extra medium at all.
All of your paintings will yellow when you use oil paint. It's a natural process that CAN be reversed! Just place your painting near a window and allow the sun to reverse the process. After a few a day of sitting near a window the yellowing will go away. Naturally, the yellowing will return, but now you know how to fix it. 😀
@@tannersteedart - Fantastic info about sunlight and yellowing. Thanks!
Thanks a lot. I have never known what the correct ratio of paint to medium should be.
My pleasure! I'm glad it helped.
Bonjour, le liquin peut se mélanger avec d'autre médium ?
Makes painting in oils MUCH easier. Be prepared for it to dry a little sooner than you might want, in some applications. Good for multiple-layer paintings.....tends to dry too quickly for very smooth glazing. Give it a try!
24 hours or sooner I've found
@@ArtbyJoeH depends on the colour as well I find some take a little longer to dry.
We all have our faves but for n I found decades ago that liquid helps paint dry fast but also leaves a plastic look so I have always mixed 1/4 liquid with 1/4 stand oil and 1/2 linseed oil. This helps it dry faster and the stand oil adds gloss but with normal linseed oil it prevents what I personally experience is a plastic feel and look.
That's a really good idea! I'm glad you found something that works for you and your art.
Thanks…predictive text changed liquin to lliquid sorry
Very interesting. thank you
Hey tanner interesting information! I enjoy liquin also for its glazing qualities but you mentioned to avoid putting thing layers over a dry to the touch layer of paint, does that apply only to paint made thin with solvents rather than with liquin? thanks
If it has been a significant period of time, and the painting has dried, you can use liquin on top of a dry to the touch surface. If you just used solvents, the paint is very thin, and it is dry to the touch, then I would feel comfortable using liquin on the subsequent layers.
What will happen if i use only Siccative, without any other medium, when glazing ?
how does this compare this gamsol solvent free gel?
Can I do liquin layers last, over regular paint layers?? My thought is I can establish colors and what I want it to look like them add texture at the end. I paint with gouache usually but I'm starting oils very soon.
Excellent question! Unfortunately, you should not do that. It is unwise to put a fast drying paint over a slow drying paint. This causes cracking and potential delamination (the upper layers could peel right off of the painting). It is best practice to use liquin during every stage of the painting, but you can vary the ratio of liquin to paint. You can achieve all that you want in the under layers and eliminate the possibility of cracking if you add liquin in ALL your premixtures for every layer. You can have your cake and eat it too. 😋
I am used to using alkyd as a sealing layer so I can glaze on top and wipe away if i need to , can you use liquin that way too? Also, if i am putting varying amounts of liquin (depending on my paint) like anywhere from 15 percent in a white lets say and using a 5 percent mixuture in a black paint on the same layer, then on top I am using another percents up to 20, will there be cracking issues? basically I ask. because every paint tube is different
I wouldn't worry about cracking, as long as you have liquin in every mixture. Yes, you can glaze the top and wipe it away if you do not like it. As long as the mixture beneath is adequately dry. Test in a small area, and then you should be fine.
Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure!
Hi, Thank you for the information Very helpful but what to use on liquin so it wont creak after the tin layer.
As long as all of your mixtures contain liquin, and you have high quality paints (avoid zinc white) you should be fine.
Is it possible to premix all of my oil colours in my palette with liquin and then begin to paint diluting this paint with a traditional medium or solvent to make the paint more liquid?
Yes, but the more oil you use the more likely you will have issues with yellowing.
Hello, thank you for this 🌹
Hi, thanks for doing these videos. I am starting to take my paintings with more and more heavy brush strokes and texture. I have Liquid Impasto and would like to ask you on any tips / advice on using this product?...Thanks, Henry
I'm glad you're finding the information valuable. I use liquin impasto more than I use regular liquin these days. It's so much easier to travel with, as I'm constantly moving around. Use the same ratio as I stated it the video. The paint will have a thicker viscosity, and the texture of brush strokes will be retained. I'd also recommend checking out liquin oleopaste. It's another gel alkyd medium that provides a stringy texture to your paint. I hope this helps. Join the livestream sometime to chat.
@@tannersteedart thank you so much. I'll continue experimenting/ learning with the Liq Impasto. ❤️
Can i put 2parts solvent and 1part linseed mixture on top of liquin?
Mix it thoroughly, and you should be fine. This should slow the drying time slightly compared to just using liquin.
I’m giving up Liquin because it yellows over time. I’ve read that if that happens, you can put it in indirect sunlight for a couple of hours to get rid of the yellow, but I haven’t tried it. I’m switching to neo megilp and gamsol. Another artist is giving up all mediums just to be safe.
Nothing wrong with that! I've been working with Daniel Sprick, and he uses liquin in the majority of his work. He says that he has not seen the yellowing that people talk about. But it could be that his paintings are generally well lit. I love other mediums too. Another favorite is oleogel by natural pigments.
Will excess paint that is stored in airtight containers dry quickly before it can be reused?
Yes, it will dry quicker. But it will remain usable for days if you use an airtight container, place in a refrigerator, and / or add clove oil to cotton balls in the airtight container.
I usually add cold wax to may paint which also allows for not worrying about fat over lean, but can i add Liquin to it?
I am not familiar with cold wax mixtures and how it effects the archival properties of the paint when combining liquin and coldwax.
Wow very informative..thanks
My pleasure
This helped me
I have been painting for maybe 15 years … was never a fan of liquid. I see the merit, but don’t like how flat it can dry. I use my own medium that is traditional oil based. I say if it ain’t broke it does not have to be fixed. I like my paint to dry slow. But informative video, thanks!
Glad you found something that works!
So I’m doing a city scape with a large area being sunset. Was going to use thinner rather than liquin. I want it to be a flat background but interesting sky. Cityscape being done (ideally) impasto. Would you recommend turps or liquin ?
If you have been using liquin in previous layers, then use liquin and transparent colors. But if you have not been using liquin up to this point, DO NOT USE LIQUIN. This would cause cracking and disadhesion due to the layer of liquin drying significantly faster than the paint below. If you have not been using liquin, I would advise using a mixture of linseed oil and turp to thin the paint. Always remember fat over lean, or more oil over less oil conent in the paint.
@@tannersteedart the linseed will slow drying time though wouldn’t it ? It’s the first coat. Covering a large area and I need to blend. Was thinking turps may be too quick to dry and wouldn’t blend so well.
Great video Tanner! Clear tips - what medium do you suggest for glazing? Can you also make a video on varnishing - best methods and tools for longevity. Great content and keep up the good work! 😸 Did you use 20% liquin for the hair 😂 too
Hahaha surprisingly I did not use liquin in my hair. I love oleogel combined with gamsol for glazing. I'll make a video on glazing soon. And I have a quick tip on vanishing on an older painting that you should check out!
@@tannersteedart thank you for the info. I have seen the video on varnishing but for us in the EU we don't have access to gamblin products so we have to find other ways
@@tannersteedart wheres that video at ???