I ended up noticing my LED was half lit on firefliy, so I managed to open it and actually found an XHP70 gen one installed. Armytek have another on the way so it'll be interesting whether mine was an accident or if it's in them all and they've falsely advertised as 70.2. No one would ever know since it has a beaded tir optic and a press fit bezel.
Wow, excellent observation! Thank you for the information, looking forward for your second sample to arrive. I will also ask my friend who modded a couple of wizard flashlights
I think the wide beam may be good for my work as a technician. I have been using an h04 nichia but I find the light a bit narrow and underpowered. I used a PL47MU mule light today and the coverage was awesome but it got really hot and was good for about 2 hours. I want to try armytek for their wide beams but I’m conflicted between the max and nichia version. If I get the max I’m not sure if I should get warm or cool. Can anyone give some advice?
Very good question. First of all as yourself whether you need hi CRI output. For car inspection for instance cool white brings more details. AT Pro Max has really wide angle, Nichia version is not that extreme. Max has clear advantage in runtime, but on the other hand due to wider angle I personally tend to pick higher mode, thus the runtime advantage is marginal. Would you consider Wizard C2 Pro v4? Size of Nichia, yet much more efficient and has a moderate (yet still wide) angle.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast what’s the cri of that version? I just got a Pl47G2 yesterday with 519a 5700k and it is pretty incredible. It’s pure white with high cri. Worked really well at work. It’s very good with black, grey and red. I am still going to get an armytek to try. It may have to be the nichia though. I don’t know if I can use a low cri light and be happy.
If you tried 519As then I am afraid nothing would be better in terms of color rendering and tint - they are the best you can find right now. Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia version will not be far though. So I guess hi CRI beam for you my friend ;)
Currently I have Wizard WR, Pro Max and C2 Pro. Majority of instances I choose C2 Pro due to great tint, low weight and size, as well as perfect light angle. I would always recommend this one ;)
It’s a shame they moved away from the V3’s thermal management. It did get too hot to touch but it was nice that it would recover its brightness after cooling down. It was the only headlight to do so I believe. Had more cooling fins too.
Fully agree. From more advanced users in mind they moved to more mainstream product. Tactical mode is also gone. For such thermal regulation we now have to turn to Zebralight that is on a verge of extinction...
@@FlashlightEnthusiastI agree in general. On paper (on graphs), advanced thermal regulation looks better. I have an Armytek Wizard Pro with an XM-L2 emitter that I purchased in 2013, and even that has a more advanced regulation circuit than this. It would decrease turbo output to the highest high level once the critical temperature is reached, and when it is cooled down, it would bump it up to turbo again, all in one step. So you could actually perceive the increase/decrease with your own eyes, not just on graphs. This is similar to Nitecore's Tiny Monsters from those years. However, in real life, I can rarely think of a situation where this would be needed. Even during tests, you would have to switch a fan on/off to make it happen. However, the good news is that, aside from Zebralight, there are still multiple brands that use the up-down thermal regulation: Lupine, Ledlenser, Nitecore, Cyansky, some Fenix lights where you see the zig-zag on the graph in their manuals, Sorfirn HS40, etc. I probably missed a lot, and there is a chance that some I listed have a pretty useless/bad implementation. PS: It would be nice if you could make a comparison review between the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro V4 and V3 to see if they've actually increased or decreased overall performance.
As the Zebralight is virtually unavailable, I do tend to prefer AT Pro Max right now. TOR optics is also a good point when choosing a headlamp. For me AT is the best when it comes to durability and output.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast ah dang I guess not available because you aren't in the USA? I'm USA so I could go zebralight. Still weighing options. I'm leaning towards pro nichia if I go armytek. Thanks for the reply.
Ehh, yes, in Europe these are extremely hard to get. Either way, ZL has not updated their models for a very long time. They are well made and have nice tint though, with more sophisticated thermal regulation than AT. Both are great options, with AT being more durable and having more options to choose from, with magnetic charging as an additional feature.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast Hello again. It dont have any V3 on it. On the head is "warm light wizard c2 pro max hot surface" and the sn. On the tail cap "armytek magnetic usb charger” so must be a V4?
Hello. How to activate the function of finding the flashlight if you drop it on foot in the dark? I understood that the air conditioning button lights up when she is out on the grass in the evening. Thank you
I've owned like 4 different armyteks and love them, as someone else stated, 21700/18650 are too heavy for a headlamp, i'd like one for night running either 16340 or 14500 in the small tube form factor, any recs?
There are 3 special modes - full brightness, fast frequency strobe, Full brightness beacon and low brightness beacon. All of them are memorized. Please let me know If I answered your question, as translation was not perfect ;)
Wizard pro Max hands down. Much better build quality with ultra durable construction, output stabilization and warm white led choice instead of cool white only. Also, lack of proximity sensor means stable performance in the rain.
I just think the 21700 is too heavy for a headlight. Even the 18650 powered ones are to heavy. Just a personal preference. Have you tried the Fenix HM65R?
![UNKILLABLE Headlamp! [Armytek Wizard C2 Pro]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hoqUU57HI1o/mqdefault.jpg)
![UNKILLABLE Headlamp! [Armytek Wizard C2 Pro]](/img/tr.png)
![NISAMANEE - TADA (ท้าดา) [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/hcQHEPMmJpU/mqdefault.jpg)
I ended up noticing my LED was half lit on firefliy, so I managed to open it and actually found an XHP70 gen one installed. Armytek have another on the way so it'll be interesting whether mine was an accident or if it's in them all and they've falsely advertised as 70.2. No one would ever know since it has a beaded tir optic and a press fit bezel.
Wow, excellent observation! Thank you for the information, looking forward for your second sample to arrive. I will also ask my friend who modded a couple of wizard flashlights
Very through review, thanks for the video.
Thank you, appreciate that!
Love this light
Me too. Excellent upgrade of a classic Wizard
21700 cell?😮
Yes, but still not that heavy
I think the wide beam may be good for my work as a technician. I have been using an h04 nichia but I find the light a bit narrow and underpowered. I used a PL47MU mule light today and the coverage was awesome but it got really hot and was good for about 2 hours. I want to try armytek for their wide beams but I’m conflicted between the max and nichia version. If I get the max I’m not sure if I should get warm or cool. Can anyone give some advice?
Very good question. First of all as yourself whether you need hi CRI output. For car inspection for instance cool white brings more details. AT Pro Max has really wide angle, Nichia version is not that extreme. Max has clear advantage in runtime, but on the other hand due to wider angle I personally tend to pick higher mode, thus the runtime advantage is marginal. Would you consider Wizard C2 Pro v4? Size of Nichia, yet much more efficient and has a moderate (yet still wide) angle.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast what’s the cri of that version? I just got a Pl47G2 yesterday with 519a 5700k and it is pretty incredible. It’s pure white with high cri. Worked really well at work. It’s very good with black, grey and red. I am still going to get an armytek to try. It may have to be the nichia though. I don’t know if I can use a low cri light and be happy.
If you tried 519As then I am afraid nothing would be better in terms of color rendering and tint - they are the best you can find right now. Armytek Wizard Pro Nichia version will not be far though. So I guess hi CRI beam for you my friend ;)
What do you think that's the best armytek wizard headlamp is?
Currently I have Wizard WR, Pro Max and C2 Pro. Majority of instances I choose C2 Pro due to great tint, low weight and size, as well as perfect light angle. I would always recommend this one ;)
@@FlashlightEnthusiastyour referring to the c2 pro nichia sir? Thanks 🙏 that be your favorite, i know you wish the lighting angle was less on the Max
What color is the light. It looks pretty warm (4000k)?
Yes, it is indeed rated at 4000K
It’s a shame they moved away from the V3’s thermal management. It did get too hot to touch but it was nice that it would recover its brightness after cooling down. It was the only headlight to do so I believe. Had more cooling fins too.
Fully agree. From more advanced users in mind they moved to more mainstream product. Tactical mode is also gone. For such thermal regulation we now have to turn to Zebralight that is on a verge of extinction...
@@FlashlightEnthusiastI agree in general. On paper (on graphs), advanced thermal regulation looks better. I have an Armytek Wizard Pro with an XM-L2 emitter that I purchased in 2013, and even that has a more advanced regulation circuit than this. It would decrease turbo output to the highest high level once the critical temperature is reached, and when it is cooled down, it would bump it up to turbo again, all in one step. So you could actually perceive the increase/decrease with your own eyes, not just on graphs. This is similar to Nitecore's Tiny Monsters from those years. However, in real life, I can rarely think of a situation where this would be needed. Even during tests, you would have to switch a fan on/off to make it happen.
However, the good news is that, aside from Zebralight, there are still multiple brands that use the up-down thermal regulation: Lupine, Ledlenser, Nitecore, Cyansky, some Fenix lights where you see the zig-zag on the graph in their manuals, Sorfirn HS40, etc. I probably missed a lot, and there is a chance that some I listed have a pretty useless/bad implementation.
PS: It would be nice if you could make a comparison review between the Armytek Wizard C2 Pro V4 and V3 to see if they've actually increased or decreased overall performance.
Which do you prefer? The pro Max, pro, or say a zebralight h600 or h604 variation?
As the Zebralight is virtually unavailable, I do tend to prefer AT Pro Max right now. TOR optics is also a good point when choosing a headlamp. For me AT is the best when it comes to durability and output.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast ah dang I guess not available because you aren't in the USA? I'm USA so I could go zebralight. Still weighing options. I'm leaning towards pro nichia if I go armytek. Thanks for the reply.
Ehh, yes, in Europe these are extremely hard to get. Either way, ZL has not updated their models for a very long time. They are well made and have nice tint though, with more sophisticated thermal regulation than AT. Both are great options, with AT being more durable and having more options to choose from, with magnetic charging as an additional feature.
Nice video. Thanks for share. I just get it from amazon. How can I know if I receive a V3 version? Thank
Look for markings on the body. V3 will have it marked or simply will not have any V4 marking. It should say Wizard Pro ;)
@@FlashlightEnthusiast Hello again. It dont have any V3 on it. On the head is "warm light wizard c2 pro max hot surface" and the sn. On the tail cap "armytek magnetic usb charger” so must be a V4?
Wizard Pro Max is only one version for the time being ;)
Hello. How to activate the function of finding the flashlight if you drop it on foot in the dark? I understood that the air conditioning button lights up when she is out on the grass in the evening. Thank you
You can find the tutorial in my newer video here: th-cam.com/video/I-vtVaGWjZY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=34LWMomSr7Bxh1y-&t=769
@@FlashlightEnthusiast Thank you very much !
I've owned like 4 different armyteks and love them, as someone else stated, 21700/18650 are too heavy for a headlamp, i'd like one for night running either 16340 or 14500 in the small tube form factor, any recs?
Armytek offers shorter models, like Tiara. Take a look at this one 😉
Olight Perun mini 2, Fenix HM50r, sofirn hs10, armytek c1, HO4 rc mini.
Looks like an Olight with that mag charger.
The main difference is that in Armytek you can charge normal cell inside without any issue
Consigo deixar um strobe com lumens mais baixo ?
There are 3 special modes - full brightness, fast frequency strobe, Full brightness beacon and low brightness beacon. All of them are memorized. Please let me know If I answered your question, as translation was not perfect ;)
good light use to polish
would you go with the wizard pro max or the Olight Perun 2?
Wizard pro Max hands down. Much better build quality with ultra durable construction, output stabilization and warm white led choice instead of cool white only. Also, lack of proximity sensor means stable performance in the rain.
@@FlashlightEnthusiast i like the warm white but the cool white is a little stronger, you think those 300 lumens are noticable?
Perun-2 and Nitecore HC-35.😮
I just think the 21700 is too heavy for a headlight. Even the 18650 powered ones are to heavy. Just a personal preference. Have you tried the Fenix HM65R?
Sure thing, personal preference matters a lot here. Extra capacity does not come without weight gain... No Fenix HM65R tested yet
ok