Corrections: -Leg should be "line". Or live, or hot. Line is probably best term here in America. I have a huge book I've been reading on inverter circuit design and it always calls the hot leads, "leg". -Total cost is $1100 plus $400 for shipping. So $1500 total, oops I totally forgot about the shipping cost of the byd pack. It's $300! But it's flat rate. That increases the price substantially unless you buy multiple packs or do a local pick up. And inverter is $100 to ship. Still dirt cheap. -circuit breaker is rated for 120 amps. Run inverter to the max! I think that's all I missed. Thanks to everyone pointing this stuff out. I try to mention everything as fast as possible, but can be difficult. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Not sure the cost has gone up, but the shipping I am seeing is $350.00 and $99.00 for the PIP2424LV-MSD. Also tax to be added too. Yes it is cheap for what you get and leave me in the I just do not know what I want and need. This started as I need back up power for 2 CPAP's for 3 or 4 days. I believe there maybe a discount that maybe used.
Just wanted to let everyone know if you use this charge controller you can't set the low voltage cut off like he shows in this video. You have to set the battery type to "user defined" before you can change the cutout voltage. Thanks for the walk through will. It really helped me set up my system.
I am learning so much from you! I am very thankful we don't have the money to pay someone to install a system for us that doesn't change the need for solar backup as well as prepare for the inevitable need of being put on oxygen before I pass away being I have a terminal lung disease that cannot be cured. I am going to install a small system independent of the grid to run a couple of TV's, refrigerator and oxygen machine plus a few lights. The big stuff runs on LP gas so very little need for anything gas operated with the exception of lighting burners and running fans on the furnace and one 6600BTU window unit air conditioner.
You just gave us a video for the very system I'm building! Bought the green MPP Solar 24v unit after your first all-in-one review (though not backfeeding) and am about to buy the battery module which I was interested in because the "raw" used BYD cells had difficult technical challenges and I'm a newbie. You're the best, Will. THANK YOU for making us wiser and greener!!!
Hi Thompson, How is your system coming along? I would like to build the same thing, MPP Solar 24v unit . Did you have any trouble with programing the settings?
I worked for a power company in Florida back in the day and someone did a diy grid tie system with a generator. One of the storm duty crew employees was killed by the back current in a downed power line. Thanks for pointing out that you need to do grid ties right Will!
@@marsBeBelinda A hurricane hit abd this guy hooked up his generator to his house. It backfed into the pole transformer in reverse direction and then was brought up to 7,620 volts and killed a man.
Dude!! I freeking love your videos. I am learning so much from you I feel guilty.... Keep up the good work, it is very apparent that you love what you do.
@@Dmpddiver Thank You Mr. Tindol I'm on oxygen so I need a stand by source. Last time a hurricane hit I was out of power 4 days, I had to drive 78 miles to get gas for my generator... Again Thank You
I’m really enjoying your videos. Have been looking at the commercial solar generators on the market and thanks to your content it looks like I’m better off building my own system.
Where did you purchase your inverter from? I see multiple people sell them on ebay. I want to avoid getting ripped off by a fake inverter or reseller. Any help will be appreciated.
Non UL listed equipment in an off-grid / no grid tie situation may work in some counties but not in others. You should be able check on-line for the requirements or call the permitting office. Another consideration is if you carry home owners insurance how this would effect your policy. A fire caused by non-UL solar systems, particularly DIY power walls, could provide the insurer an excuse to not honor the policy.
If an insurance provider wants an excuse to not cover damages...they will find a way. All electrical related items are to be installed by a licensed and bonded professional so any home-owner installation is a popular reason for claim denial. The UBC (Universal Building Code) is so complex that its fine print can also be used to deny any claim. Might as well press ahead yet do your research for a good install. Besides...some of us actually live on wheels. We be rebels, we disdain insurance...mostly sorta anyways.
I notice that the Ecoflow Delta portable power station is UL listed, but the Bluetti isn't. I emailed Bluetti to ask about that, and the fellow that wrote back didn't know what I was talking about LOL
You got this down my friend. Offer good service, solid products and a humble, honest character. Ever think of running for Congress ? Your success is well deserved. Thanks so much
Such a easy to use inverter. Only issue I have had is the low voltage disconnect. Make sure its programmed at a voltage higher than your bms disconnect. if not, it can go into safety mode. Probably the easiest split phase inverter to use. Great setup you have :D
I would do 45.2v. that's 11.5v at 12v. Should work great. If one battle born goes into safety mode, it's a big pain in the butt with 48v system. Make sure they are all charged up to 100% when you connect them in series
@@WillProwse Can you do a video on programing one of these I got one and I thought you could hook it to the grid and charge your batteries but can't figure out how to do that??? Thanks for your time Will!! You are doing a great job!!!
Cleanup the wiring. I use at least 2 straps per wire to keep the wire from moving on the terminal. (I’m a master electrician 20 years in the trade) Nice work!
Did not know solar power was this easy!! I am going to convert my storage shed to this so I can ditch the extension cords from the house!!! Awesome video!! Just subscribed to the channel!!
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse using the link the white inverter was not available. Cheapest 24v was $501!plus tax plus $120 shipping for a green model
Been watching your videos for a bit, and you are a freaking solar guru man. Just bought one of these for my rv trailer. Setting up a 500w Santan array with 2 250w used solar panels I saw on your site. The fan noise issue shouldn't be a problem, I am mounting it all in storage space under my bed, so it should be pretty quiet in the living area. Eventually I want to sell my 24ft for a 30ft since I am going to be living in it full time for a bit, so I also thought it would be a great resale value when I sell the camper, since most people want a simple, uncomplicated system and PnP sells.
Wow another amazing super great video info and analysis from absolutely the best channel on utube. you hit this one out of the park again. when your sharing such great info no need to worry about the exact cost of the system. people can do some work on the pricing themselves. thank you and keep up the great work and videos you do there fantastic
I just got my solar working after a LOT of head scratching/buying parts/putting them together and I still don't have grid charging so to see how easy you just put this together kind of makes my eyes roll. The only thing my system has over this one is being able to double the amount of solar when I want but I guess this set up just needs you to go buy another inverter and plug it in....
i'm currently converting my touring caravan to solar as the site owners charge £5 per day for mains electric ( £140 per month ) these all in one units seem brilliant for my 495w solar panel and 24v 200ah lithium battery
If you're worried about it being attached to something flammable you could easily solve that by doing wood/foil/fiberglass fire cloth/inverter. For those who don't have a concrete or cinder block wall to mount it to.
@@teekay1785 Yeah, just a piece of sheet metal would do, but fiberglass cloth is cheap, relatively insulating at high temps, and simple foil should do well enough to dissipate the hotspots that leak through. By all means though, if you have some 3mm copper sheet lying around, just use that.
Hey, that is exactly what I would like to see. I was seeing the schematics and I see is possible for three phase and I assume is the same for two. I am waiting for this vid. Thanks!
A very big CON for me is nearly constant fan running with accompanied noise. A light load and light charging current makes it run. I flipped the fans around, which if it helped, I could not tell. I can't do much about inverter triggered fan, but for solar charging I can and did.... adding a Rich Solar 20A MPPT. FYI: my single panel is 395w (41.4V VMP - 9.55A IMP)
Inverter, air space standoffs, galv 20ga, air space, two sheets of 5/8 drywall, 12” clear on sides 24” overhead. Pretty sure that exceeds the codes; insurance company might have a specific require and I’d install to that imho
One of the things I noticed researching - being bored on night shifts - TH-cam and Amazon etc help me keep awake 6pm-6am - I noticed these products (at least inverter) is NOT UL Listed. Apparently in some states that means You can't legally hook up to grid tie. The seller on amazon mentioned this in the product page for a similar inverter and mentioned a 20% restock fee
Hi Will, thanks for this video. This seems like a great setup for my RV, however I'm not sure how I should patch the AC output into the RV panel so as to make all the AC outlets hot, ETC....
@@josephmoorejr3814 The auto transfer switch is a switch that decides between shore power and the generator as you know, and it will allow only one or the other to feed the RV. So your RV will think the 2.4 kw inverter is replacing the shower power source and if that source fails, then you will loose power and have to start the generator and once the generator is up and running, the transfer switch will transfer to allow the generator to feed your RV. Hope that helps....
@@TerrydeAlaska That answers a big question for me. I don't want to mess with my fifth wheel existing electrical system. Such a simple solution, I don't know why i didn't think of it. Thanks!
I talked to an Old Order Amish who said ALWAYS install a Lightening Resister. He learned the hard way. Burnt his building down, costing thousands!!! Can you show us how to install one in this system PLEASE!!!
Homes are 100 -200 Amps 5kW-10kW 110-220 volts so no. Tiny house yes. 10-20amps TV, Laptop, lights and fan 110 volts. No upright vacuum, dryer or AC. Would need to connect in Parallel to other systems to make as big as you need. EACH device you use at the same time add them up and build it.
Also don’t forget, you will need 16-20 pv panels for 4-5kW, the point to powering a whole house this way (of course with more inverters), is to power your loads during the day and charge the battery, so you can run on the battery at night or when the panels aren’t producing enough.
Awesome Will. Perfect and I will be using for my off grid cabin. Thanks for all of your videos. What do you recommend for panels? I was going to use Renogy but how many watts do you recommend?
PaCTA I recall from a previous that they are 270 watt each. The actual wiring depends on the panels used, wattage, voltage and amp rating. Voltage: assuming the panels are 24 volt, I estimate their open circuit voltage to be double. 3 panels in series are 72V or 144Voc - just under the allowed 150V of the inverter Amp: I also estimate these panels to be rated between 8.5 and 9.5amps. So 3 panels in series have a current of only 9.5amp but at the inverter it’s broken down to 9.5x3=28.5amps. Panels in parallel: so we put two strings of 3 panels in parallel. That will keep the voltage at just below 150v and the current around 57amp. That will satisfy the inverters 60amp rating. If we used 300watt panels, that’s 300x6=1800watts plus minus a little for max output. So we are just under the rated 2000watt rating. I’m also looking at the renogy 300watt, 24v panels. I can’t think of a better configuration though.
@@4philipp Thank you very much for the info Phillip. I appreciate the explanation. Even though I have Will's book, still trying to get a handle on this.
Bro you have a video on everything on market, I just found this inverter on Marketplace for $500 & start searching here comes your detailed video on it, the only downside is it's 120 volts which cannot serve my purpose since I am trying to connect it to my detached garage electrical panel to run everything minus the AC. Thanks like always.
Looks like I am buying a combo charger/inverter! There another 24v 3.5kw LiFePo4 battery on that site for $499, are you going to be checking that one out too?
At this price it's hard to believe it has a 60 amp AC charger. Could you do one of your test to verify the ac charger output of 60 amps in a 24v. battery?
I love your videos. Keep making them. Just a minor correction. In the US, L is for "Line", not "Leg". There are legs of a transformer...but line is what the black should be called. The solar input wire really should be larger if concerned about efficiency. A lot of those 800 watts will be lost in those small wires. The wire gauge is fine for safety...it can handle the current. But a lot of power will be lost to heating those small wires. At low voltages it is much more of an issue than at higher voltages. For 12 and 24 volt systems, try to size the wire one or two gauges bigger than what is needed for ampacity..depending on the length of the run.
99% of the solar wire run is 10 gauge temco. The last three feet is 12 gauge because it wouldn't reach from the entry gland. Every conductor in my system is the appropriate size, I promise.
I have a book that calls it leg that I'm currently reading, especially when a panel is supplied with two legs. So I've been calling it that. Everyone is telling me line/live/leg and idk which one to use lol.
@@WillProwse I think from NEMA, NFPA, and UL the terminology is Line. As for the solar wiring, Leg maybe appropriate (idk), but for the 120v AC input it really should be Line (BLK), Neutral (WHT), Ground (GRN ). Either way, I do learn a lot from the videos. I have had not experience with these batteries as they have been cost prohibitive to me.
@@WillProwse Efficiency is not a real big concern for a backup system like this with power from the grid. For about a 36 foot run at 10 AWG, you would loose about 10% of the power (80 watts in this case) if you could achieve full power from the solar panels. I suspect your runs are shorter than that. In sizing systems for pure off grid systems I am always after every bit of efficiency possible.
@@WillProwse would love to see a video about ac electrical safety as in when installing these systems in a van/rv how do you go about ground earthing etc and rcd protection. what kinds of protection cheap and expensive systems have or don't have.
@@WillProwse so far loving this unit. been testing it out using induction cooktops and running my Expensive big screen and hifi thats how much i trust it. the only thing i don't like is the software. cant get it to run on mac and the windows version took some playing around to get it reading the live data but cant seem to get the data logging to work. the software is a bit average. would like to see max pv watt input specs etc during the day when i come home to see how my panels are doing if im not there to see the live data when testing used or new panels. still trying to figure out also when using the solar to directly power the inverter load if the pv input in watts shown on display is the actual pv watt input or whats left going into the battery after some of its being used to power the load as i noticed when the inverter is off the wattage readout goes up but that could also be the loss from the inverter being on. but yeh overall very impressed for the price it just cant be beat right now i cant wait to fit this into my future camper van and considering buying bigger unit for a future house.
they made that 2424 for a while now, the one i have is called "pip 2424ms" its about 5 years old now and functionally identical, a superb unit and very cheap on the used (payd 130 for mine)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse yeah, of course, it is a HOT leg, theneutral leg, and the ground leg. They are all legs, but the L doesn’t stand for LEG, it refers to LINE, as in Line voltage Leg Another thing will, please don’t take this as negative, I only help correct because i think that what youre doing is great and I want you to do the best job possible. I am an electrician by trade, just trying to help you as you are helping the masses.
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse another point I wanted to bring up was when you first tested the mpp solar unit, you complained heavily about only having two mounting holes at the top and needing VHB TAPE or a strap to hold the bottom... did you look in the wiring section at the bottom and not see the screw hole to hold in the bottom? Maybe on your next mpp video you could mention this as it may have turned off some potential adopters. I know mine has ‘this hole,and in. Later vid I saw that you used the hole to mount it, but you never verbally addressed it. Just my $0.02
Just heads up you have to change the battery type before you get to the function will is talking about option number five switch it to user then you can program
Thank Will! for the time you put into it , I just order the 12v one , I'm planning on making a portable one. Since Here in Puerto Rico we are in huracane season, and light goes on and off, and all ready 2 storm, and is just the beginning the season until November 😎. hey how about make something portable!
I just had a killer idea. Home appliances like fridges with inbuilt deep cycle batteries. Great for blackouts or save money on AC power overnight. Feel free to rip me off. I'm used to it.
The high no load power draw kills it for me, at least in the house. The 208 volt 3ph unit may be of interest in the workshop where it is only turned on when needed and a smaller more efficient inverter used for lighting and small loads. My favorite inverter is an old Trace 2512SB with a search mode power draw of about 0.3 watts.
You might want to look into getting a couple of ferule crimpers. One for the larger stuff (battery) and one for the smaller stuff (panels and small ac). They have pretty much become code for everything Europe.
Please do a video on batteryless grid assist inverters where solar is first priority and the shortfall is drawn from the grid. We are NOT allowed grid tie systems. 90 percent of my power usage is during the day.
Will, you started your video by saying how powerful this system is ...that it can power a cabin yet you only show how to connect one AC (extention cord) outlet. Could you show us beginners how to connect it to a distribution box? I need to connect to: Connecticut-Electric Cesmpsc41grhr Outdoor Power Outlet,120V,30A ...basically its a box with a shore power outlet and two extra regular outlets and breakers.. I know you are tired of catering to beginners but I'm sure many of us could really appreciate your help. Thank you so much for making it possible for off gridders to have electricity:)
You are so exciting. I so much want to buy this Solar Array Inverter and 2 Battleborn 12v 100Ah batteries. and 6 100w 12v panels total 24v for 300w it's still over $3000 to power an upright freezer that will cost me $200 a year to run 24/7. 15 years to break even. Still not cost effective...
Wow. Shoulda got these over the Rich solar kit. Only problem I see is the $1500 doesn't include wiring costs of solar to charge controller. Those MC4 connectors and 10 or 8 AWG wire is expensive af.
Hi Will, quick question. Will these units work with both solar and windmills? I live above Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada and in the winter we only get a few hours of sunlight a day but I also live on the shores of Lake Manitoba and we get HUGE amounts of wind here all the time, 24/7. Right now outside at this. moment there's a 30-40kph wind howling away. I'd like to set up a hybrid system, solar and wind, as we can get 18 hours of day light in the summer too. Please advise I absolutely love your channel and advise and reviews you give but it seems to be only about solar and I haven't seen anything on hybrid duel input systems other than grid as the second input.
Good to have your tutorial, Will. How many of these inverters have you installed now, and what would you say about customer satisfaction and general reliability?
Maybe design a system for emergency circuit for people’s home to charge from main when necessary but have their own circuit with gas generator option when needed
This is exactly what I have in mind for my vanlife build. The only thing I am struggling with is the wiring with other components. So few questions if anybody is willing to help: 1. Where would I connect another 24V means of charging (12V alternator with step-up to 24V)? I am struggling with the idea that if I'd connect it to the battery how the charging would work with the power from both the alternator and the 4-in-1 at the same time. Is there some other component needed? 2. Where would you connect the 24V/12V load? Again straight to the battery? No problem there? I think so, just asking to be sure. 3. Just out of curiosity - why would you need a BMS if the battery is connected only to this 4-in-1? I am under the impression that it has all the functionality of BMS except balancing the cells. But you have made a point in some other video that in case of LiFePO4 batteries you practically might need to balance them like once a year or so anyway.
Good questions: 1. 12v to 24v boost converter. Set the output voltage to lifepo4 absorption, 29V. Ensure that boost converter has current limiting. 2. Connect a fused line to battery direct for 24v. If you want 12v appliances, run a 24v to 12v step down converter. Super cheap on amazon. 3. You need bms for multiple other reasons. Temp protection and cell monitoring for LVD and HVD. Super simple setup. The converters may seem strange and first, but they are dead simple. Read the manual and add fuses where necessary. Ill probably make a blueprint for this in due time. I have a blue print you can follow for 24v to 12v converter here: www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html Post any specific questions on the forum and we can help: www.diysolarforum.com
Great video thanks. Can you add a wind mill to this system? If not what alternative hardware can I add so that I can add a windmill and solar panels together.
Awesome! 2,000 watts, so I’m new to this, so for a 6,000 watt system, I’m guessing I’ll need 3 controllers, and 3 batteries? I’m planning on using 10 250 watt solar panels. Will not need a house a/c for an RV, but some type of A/C will be used.
My Pip2424msx has been running 4 years and I have my first issue in that one of the fans failed but as they are standard sizes I replaced all the fans with Noctuas and much quieter. I did manage to break it myself once by overloading the solar side but I repaired that too.
Great video but 150VDC can kill you if the amps delivered is over 30ma, which those panels can easily deliver and I doubt a 30ma load would drop the open circuit voltage that much. The generally accepted "safe" DC voltages in the US to push the current through a human body is 60VDC for dry conditions and 40VDC for wet conditions.
Corrections:
-Leg should be "line". Or live, or hot. Line is probably best term here in America. I have a huge book I've been reading on inverter circuit design and it always calls the hot leads, "leg".
-Total cost is $1100 plus $400 for shipping. So $1500 total, oops I totally forgot about the shipping cost of the byd pack. It's $300! But it's flat rate. That increases the price substantially unless you buy multiple packs or do a local pick up. And inverter is $100 to ship. Still dirt cheap.
-circuit breaker is rated for 120 amps. Run inverter to the max!
I think that's all I missed. Thanks to everyone pointing this stuff out. I try to mention everything as fast as possible, but can be difficult.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com
Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com
Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link):
amzn.to/2Aj4dX4
If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first):
12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html
Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html
Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html
Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html
DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html
Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes:
-Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp
-Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels:
www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator:
us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7
-AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around:
amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out:
richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek
-Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out:
shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p
-Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals
bit.ly/2mIxSqt
10% off code: diysolar
-Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA:
watts247.com/?wpam_id=3
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Contact Information:
I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com
Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar
FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers:
Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :)
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program,
An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
Not sure the cost has gone up, but the shipping I am seeing is $350.00 and $99.00 for the PIP2424LV-MSD. Also tax to be added too. Yes it is cheap for what you get and leave me in the I just do not know what I want and need. This started as I need back up power for 2 CPAP's for 3 or 4 days. I believe there maybe a discount that maybe used.
Oh get the free shipping lv2424. There are two ads on eBay.
@@WillProwse I am not finding the free shipping, sorry.
Its out of stock, the only one available is the more expensive one. That's why. One in video is cheaper model
@@Larryn7luf green one costs more. White one is cheaper model.
Just wanted to let everyone know if you use this charge controller you can't set the low voltage cut off like he shows in this video. You have to set the battery type to "user defined" before you can change the cutout voltage. Thanks for the walk through will. It really helped me set up my system.
Yes you can't set absorption or float either. I figure people will have it set to user anyways
I am learning so much from you! I am very thankful we don't have the money to pay someone to install a system for us that doesn't change the need for solar backup as well as prepare for the inevitable need of being put on oxygen before I pass away being I have a terminal lung disease that cannot be cured.
I am going to install a small system independent of the grid to run a couple of TV's, refrigerator and oxygen machine plus a few lights. The big stuff runs on LP gas so very little need for anything gas operated with the exception of lighting burners and running fans on the furnace and one 6600BTU window unit air conditioner.
Good idea I was thinking the same thing I have copd
You just gave us a video for the very system I'm building! Bought the green MPP Solar 24v unit after your first all-in-one review (though not backfeeding) and am about to buy the battery module which I was interested in because the "raw" used BYD cells had difficult technical challenges and I'm a newbie. You're the best, Will. THANK YOU for making us wiser and greener!!!
Hi Thompson, How is your system coming along? I would like to build the same thing, MPP Solar 24v unit . Did you have any trouble with programing the settings?
Hi there. I have the 24v version, but the fan is so loud. Do you have the same issue? Cheers
Do you have two battery banks? I saw a note from Will that two are needed? How would they be wired? P orS?
dnhman parallel to supply more amps. Keep the wires as close in length as possible :)
Omg this totally saved me tons of money running power inside my ManCave along with my storm shelter/ bunker! Great video pal!
Oh..this is the answer to storm shelter bunkers.
I worked for a power company in Florida back in the day and someone did a diy grid tie system with a generator. One of the storm duty crew employees was killed by the back current in a downed power line. Thanks for pointing out that you need to do grid ties right Will!
Very bad things!
R.i.p
@@marsBeBelinda The voltage went into the transformer backwards and pumped voltage upto 7,620 volts.
@@marsBeBelinda A hurricane hit abd this guy hooked up his generator to his house. It backfed into the pole transformer in reverse direction and then was brought up to 7,620 volts and killed a man.
@@marsBeBelinda Please, no more word salads.
@@marsBeBelinda Are you using voice to text?
Prices are dropping before our eyes. This is amazing! At least we have something going in the right direction
Dude!! I freeking love your videos. I am learning so much from you I feel guilty.... Keep up the good work, it is very apparent that you love what you do.
Thank Will, you are the BEST, among the REST.
Your HONESTY was what drawn me, to your channel, and now, I'm HOOKED.
You make lives work for basically free. This is invaluable information.
The videos are his "storefront". He is doing very well out of them, and deservedly so.
This is exactly what I will do for ,my house build only in 48 volts. Thanks Will...👮♂️
How do you make this 48v ? I know nothing about solar. Thank you
You place these batteries in series, 24+24=48 great batteries for solar storage.
@@Dmpddiver Thank You Mr. Tindol I'm on oxygen so I need a stand by source. Last time a hurricane hit I was out of power 4 days, I had to drive 78 miles to get gas for my generator... Again Thank You
I’m really enjoying your videos. Have been looking at the commercial solar generators on the market and thanks to your content it looks like I’m better off building my own system.
Ordered this all in one jammy yesterday. Thanks Will! My bus is gonna' rock!
I used lv2424 in my RV for months. You will love it. Super powerful
Where did you purchase your inverter from? I see multiple people sell them on ebay. I want to avoid getting ripped off by a fake inverter or reseller. Any help will be appreciated.
What website
I own that inverter for 5 months. running on 2x250 poly panels and two used valence battery. got a good response from seller on ebay
Non UL listed equipment in an off-grid / no grid tie situation may work in some counties but not in others. You should be able check on-line for the requirements or call the permitting office. Another consideration is if you carry home owners insurance how this would effect your policy. A fire caused by non-UL solar systems, particularly DIY power walls, could provide the insurer an excuse to not honor the policy.
Yep absolutely
If an insurance provider wants an excuse to not cover damages...they will find a way. All electrical related items are to be installed by a licensed and bonded professional so any home-owner installation is a popular reason for claim denial. The UBC (Universal Building Code) is so complex that its fine print can also be used to deny any claim. Might as well press ahead yet do your research for a good install. Besides...some of us actually live on wheels. We be rebels, we disdain insurance...mostly sorta anyways.
No. Just no. Independence is worth the cost of defiance. Permit, tax and regulate till you strip away all freedoms.
I notice that the Ecoflow Delta portable power station is UL listed, but the Bluetti isn't. I emailed Bluetti to ask about that, and the fellow that wrote back didn't know what I was talking about LOL
They can be line man killers
You got this down my friend. Offer good service, solid products and a humble, honest character. Ever think of running for Congress ?
Your success is well deserved.
Thanks so much
i follow you with everything and watch all your movies, your my go to man for solar,enough said,,
This is exactly what i need for the shop that I plan to build.
Will, if this got any simpler the system would install itself. Great vid!
Where can I buy those inverter ⋯？ Please let me know
I installed the lv5048 in my cabin. Works great. Installing a parallel system in my workshop
Such a easy to use inverter. Only issue I have had is the low voltage disconnect. Make sure its programmed at a voltage higher than your bms disconnect. if not, it can go into safety mode. Probably the easiest split phase inverter to use. Great setup you have :D
@@WillProwse I'll go double check 🙂
Set at 42 for Battle Born. Do you think that is to low?
I would do 45.2v. that's 11.5v at 12v. Should work great. If one battle born goes into safety mode, it's a big pain in the butt with 48v system. Make sure they are all charged up to 100% when you connect them in series
@@WillProwse Can you do a video on programing one of these I got one and I thought you could hook it to the grid and charge your batteries but can't figure out how to do that??? Thanks for your time Will!! You are doing a great job!!!
Thank you I've been waiting for this !
Cleanup the wiring. I use at least 2 straps per wire to keep the wire from moving on the terminal.
(I’m a master electrician 20 years in the trade)
Nice work!
Oh god this is not a permanent install haha! I promise I would secure everything if this was more than a demonstration for beginners
Thanks for this! Might be perfect for our off grid cabin in the mountains of Colorado...
Did not know solar power was this easy!! I am going to convert my storage shed to this so I can ditch the extension cords from the house!!! Awesome video!! Just subscribed to the channel!!
Just ordered the combo.
$675 inverter
$880 battery
--------
$1555 total with tax and shipping. Just a tad over that $1100 mark.
Yeah that shipping cost is horrible. I changed the thumbnail price so people know. Sorry about not adding the shipping
Wait 880? From big battery?
Did you get the green one? Or white inverter
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse the battery is 699, minus a 10% ($70) for signing up for email list, plus $250 for shipping. Makes $880.
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse using the link the white inverter was not available. Cheapest 24v was $501!plus tax plus $120 shipping for a green model
@@4philipp ohhhh ok that makes sense then. Oh man I'm so happy your doing this setup. I wish I had this years ago haha it's amazing
Been watching your videos for a bit, and you are a freaking solar guru man. Just bought one of these for my rv trailer. Setting up a 500w Santan array with 2 250w used solar panels I saw on your site. The fan noise issue shouldn't be a problem, I am mounting it all in storage space under my bed, so it should be pretty quiet in the living area. Eventually I want to sell my 24ft for a 30ft since I am going to be living in it full time for a bit, so I also thought it would be a great resale value when I sell the camper, since most people want a simple, uncomplicated system and PnP sells.
Wow another amazing super great video info and analysis from absolutely the best channel on utube. you hit this one out of the park again. when your sharing such great info no need to worry about the exact cost of the system. people can do some work on the pricing themselves. thank you and keep up the great work and videos you do there fantastic
I just got my solar working after a LOT of head scratching/buying parts/putting them together and I still don't have grid charging so to see how easy you just put this together kind of makes my eyes roll. The only thing my system has over this one is being able to double the amount of solar when I want but I guess this set up just needs you to go buy another inverter and plug it in....
This is cool. Thanks Will have a good day.
Can you make a video or explain how to set one up to run a full house ex. A house with washer,dryer,fridge,stove and so on
I like this young fellow , he's going places . 👍
What about for an RV re: the MPPT controller?
i'm currently converting my touring caravan to solar as the site owners charge £5 per day for mains electric ( £140 per month ) these all in one units seem brilliant for my 495w solar panel and 24v 200ah lithium battery
Thanks Will, Great video! You are singular. You are changing the world for the better. Thank you!
I bet you had fun building this, this is awesome, thank you for your knowledge.
This is a great system, thank you, Will!! This is the way I would go if I was starting a new system.
If you're worried about it being attached to something flammable you could easily solve that by doing wood/foil/fiberglass fire cloth/inverter. For those who don't have a concrete or cinder block wall to mount it to.
Smart idea!!
and metal
@@teekay1785 Yeah, just a piece of sheet metal would do, but fiberglass cloth is cheap, relatively insulating at high temps, and simple foil should do well enough to dissipate the hotspots that leak through. By all means though, if you have some 3mm copper sheet lying around, just use that.
@@WillProwse Thanks mate.
Can you do a video on how to connect duel system so you can have 2 hot legs in your AC panel?
Sure
Hey, that is exactly what I would like to see. I was seeing the schematics and I see is possible for three phase and I assume is the same for two. I am waiting for this vid. Thanks!
Will thanks free of books and videos. They are great!
Can you do a video on setting up multiple inverters for larger systems?
YES please do this will :)
I second that PLEASE!!!
A very big CON for me is nearly constant fan running with accompanied noise. A light load and light charging current makes it run. I flipped the fans around, which if it helped, I could not tell. I can't do much about inverter triggered fan, but for solar charging I can and did.... adding a Rich Solar 20A MPPT. FYI: my single panel is 395w (41.4V VMP - 9.55A IMP)
That’s awesome, the fire board you mentioned sounds like Magnesium Mgo FC sheet.
Cement board is cheap and easy
Inverter, air space standoffs, galv 20ga, air space, two sheets of 5/8 drywall, 12” clear on sides 24” overhead. Pretty sure that exceeds the codes; insurance company might have a specific require and I’d install to that imho
One of the things I noticed researching - being bored on night shifts - TH-cam and Amazon etc help me keep awake 6pm-6am - I noticed these products (at least inverter) is NOT UL Listed. Apparently in some states that means You can't legally hook up to grid tie. The seller on amazon mentioned this in the product page for a similar inverter and mentioned a 20% restock fee
Do not hook these up to any grid. Ever.
This one is for off grid use only
Hi Will, thanks for this video. This seems like a great setup for my RV, however I'm not sure how I should patch the AC output into the RV panel so as to make all the AC outlets hot, ETC....
Just run a wire. line neutral ground.
Use your shore power input on the RV instead of connecting it to a power pannel in an RV park, connect it to this units output..easy pizzy
@@TerrydeAlaska Thanks, if this is done will the auto transfer to shore power still work if this units wattage rate is exceeded?
@@josephmoorejr3814 The auto transfer switch is a switch that decides between shore power and the generator as you know, and it will allow only one or the other to feed the RV. So your RV will think the 2.4 kw inverter is replacing the shower power source and if that source fails, then you will loose power and have to start the generator and once the generator is up and running, the transfer switch will transfer to allow the generator to feed your RV. Hope that helps....
@@TerrydeAlaska That answers a big question for me. I don't want to mess with my fifth wheel existing electrical system. Such a simple solution, I don't know why i didn't think of it. Thanks!
I talked to an Old Order Amish who said ALWAYS install a Lightening Resister. He learned the hard way. Burnt his building down, costing thousands!!! Can you show us how to install one in this system PLEASE!!!
The EMP shield protects against lightning, powers surge, EMP, solar flare ECT... There are several types to choose from.
Can you power a regular house with that (lights, refrigerator, plugs, everything)?
Homes are 100 -200 Amps 5kW-10kW 110-220 volts so no. Tiny house yes. 10-20amps TV, Laptop, lights and fan 110 volts. No upright vacuum, dryer or AC. Would need to connect in Parallel to other systems to make as big as you need. EACH device you use at the same time add them up and build it.
Also don’t forget, you will need 16-20 pv panels for 4-5kW, the point to powering a whole house this way (of course with more inverters), is to power your loads during the day and charge the battery, so you can run on the battery at night or when the panels aren’t producing enough.
Cool, ordered one today. Explained well thanks.
Awesome Will. Perfect and I will be using for my off grid cabin. Thanks for all of your videos. What do you recommend for panels? I was going to use Renogy but how many watts do you recommend?
I see you had 3 panels, but can you tell how many watts each panel was please?
PaCTA I recall from a previous that they are 270 watt each. The actual wiring depends on the panels used, wattage, voltage and amp rating.
Voltage: assuming the panels are 24 volt, I estimate their open circuit voltage to be double. 3 panels in series are 72V or 144Voc - just under the allowed 150V of the inverter
Amp: I also estimate these panels to be rated between 8.5 and 9.5amps. So 3 panels in series have a current of only 9.5amp but at the inverter it’s broken down to 9.5x3=28.5amps.
Panels in parallel: so we put two strings of 3 panels in parallel. That will keep the voltage at just below 150v and the current around 57amp. That will satisfy the inverters 60amp rating. If we used 300watt panels, that’s 300x6=1800watts plus minus a little for max output. So we are just under the rated 2000watt rating.
I’m also looking at the renogy 300watt, 24v panels. I can’t think of a better configuration though.
@@4philipp Thank you very much for the info Phillip. I appreciate the explanation. Even though I have Will's book, still trying to get a handle on this.
Great video for us new people... vary simple and well exsplained. Thank You.
hey Will, would you recommend a system such as this for a mobile tinyhome / RV? (one that drives around, not stationary). thanks!
Bro you have a video on everything on market, I just found this inverter on Marketplace for $500 & start searching here comes your detailed video on it, the only downside is it's 120 volts which cannot serve my purpose since I am trying to connect it to my detached garage electrical panel to run everything minus the AC. Thanks like always.
Looks like I am buying a combo charger/inverter!
There another 24v 3.5kw LiFePo4 battery on that site for $499, are you going to be checking that one out too?
@@happyhealerforpresident2029 >>>>>>What are you talking about ?
Will, your videos are just awesome! Thank you!
At this price it's hard to believe it has a 60 amp AC charger. Could you do one of your test to verify the ac charger output of 60 amps in a 24v. battery?
Good luck!
I bought also this junk. After one Jear and some troubles with the van and seller, I only use Viktron easy solar.
What junk?
So would you recommend this battery in a rv, or a Tesla
Thank you. What a great presentation, as always !!
Hey Will, can I connect a 48v pv array to this unit. The specs say 30v-80vdc
Another excellent video, this is exactly what I will do for ,my house build except bigger and in 48 volts....Umm, ok so not exactly LOL,
Thanks Will
Question: what's the minimum amount of solar voltage to keep a 24v inverter going?
You never disappoint!
They do fail after 3 years or so ..
This is great...only problem is I need a budget friendly spit phase for a 50 amp camper, for back up only
I love your videos. Keep making them. Just a minor correction. In the US, L is for "Line", not "Leg". There are legs of a transformer...but line is what the black should be called. The solar input wire really should be larger if concerned about efficiency. A lot of those 800 watts will be lost in those small wires. The wire gauge is fine for safety...it can handle the current. But a lot of power will be lost to heating those small wires. At low voltages it is much more of an issue than at higher voltages. For 12 and 24 volt systems, try to size the wire one or two gauges bigger than what is needed for ampacity..depending on the length of the run.
99% of the solar wire run is 10 gauge temco. The last three feet is 12 gauge because it wouldn't reach from the entry gland. Every conductor in my system is the appropriate size, I promise.
I have a book that calls it leg that I'm currently reading, especially when a panel is supplied with two legs. So I've been calling it that. Everyone is telling me line/live/leg and idk which one to use lol.
@@WillProwse I think from NEMA, NFPA, and UL the terminology is Line. As for the solar wiring, Leg maybe appropriate (idk), but for the 120v AC input it really should be Line (BLK), Neutral (WHT), Ground (GRN ). Either way, I do learn a lot from the videos. I have had not experience with these batteries as they have been cost prohibitive to me.
@@WillProwse Efficiency is not a real big concern for a backup system like this with power from the grid. For about a 36 foot run at 10 AWG, you would loose about 10% of the power (80 watts in this case) if you could achieve full power from the solar panels. I suspect your runs are shorter than that. In sizing systems for pure off grid systems I am always after every bit of efficiency possible.
These are like watching the solar version of real genius, awesome.
Good to know! Thank you
got my 24v 240v 50a mppt controller today!! looks well made.
Nice!!
@@WillProwse would love to see a video about ac electrical safety as in when installing these systems in a van/rv how do you go about ground earthing etc and rcd protection. what kinds of protection cheap and expensive systems have or don't have.
@@WillProwse so far loving this unit. been testing it out using induction cooktops and running my Expensive big screen and hifi thats how much i trust it. the only thing i don't like is the software. cant get it to run on mac and the windows version took some playing around to get it reading the live data but cant seem to get the data logging to work. the software is a bit average. would like to see max pv watt input specs etc during the day when i come home to see how my panels are doing if im not there to see the live data when testing used or new panels. still trying to figure out also when using the solar to directly power the inverter load if the pv input in watts shown on display is the actual pv watt input or whats left going into the battery after some of its being used to power the load as i noticed when the inverter is off the wattage readout goes up but that could also be the loss from the inverter being on. but yeh overall very impressed for the price it just cant be beat right now i cant wait to fit this into my future camper van and considering buying bigger unit for a future house.
Great video! I'm looking to set up a trailer system or a portable system with 4 440w mono for emergencies and/or reduce energy costs.
very cool! this will likely be what I do. you are very smart with all this stuff!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Love your videos..
they made that 2424 for a while now, the one i have is called "pip 2424ms" its about 5 years old now and functionally identical, a superb unit and very cheap on the used (payd 130 for mine)
i like the mpp all in one .. i use also 24v, but 3kw mpp with 8 winston 100ah (123bms) (
only 10 mV difference in the cells)
You may have already heard this but when describing the alternating current terminals it’s ground line snd neutral G L N.
Book next to me calls inverter output hot lines, "legs". You can call them leg, line or live. Or hot lead. Whatever works for you
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse yeah, of course, it is a HOT leg, theneutral leg, and the ground leg. They are all legs, but the L doesn’t stand for LEG, it refers to LINE, as in Line voltage Leg
Another thing will, please don’t take this as negative, I only help correct because i think that what youre doing is great and I want you to do the best job possible. I am an electrician by trade, just trying to help you as you are helping the masses.
@@sNEAKYnIGHTmUPPET good point, oops
DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse another point I wanted to bring up was when you first tested the mpp solar unit, you complained heavily about only having two mounting holes at the top and needing VHB TAPE or a strap to hold the bottom... did you look in the wiring section at the bottom and not see the screw hole to hold in the bottom? Maybe on your next mpp video you could mention this as it may have turned off some potential adopters. I know mine has ‘this hole,and in. Later vid I saw that you used the hole to mount it, but you never verbally addressed it. Just my $0.02
Just heads up you have to change the battery type before you get to the function will is talking about option number five switch it to user then you can program
Thank Will! for the time you put into it , I just order the 12v one , I'm planning on making a portable one. Since Here in Puerto Rico we are in huracane season, and light goes on and off, and all ready 2 storm, and is just the beginning the season until November 😎. hey how about make something portable!
I just had a killer idea. Home appliances like fridges with inbuilt deep cycle batteries. Great for blackouts or save money on AC power overnight. Feel free to rip me off. I'm used to it.
Can you wire an RV plug to the ac output to run an RV?
The high no load power draw kills it for me, at least in the house. The 208 volt 3ph unit may be of interest in the workshop where it is only turned on when needed and a smaller more efficient inverter used for lighting and small loads.
My favorite inverter is an old Trace 2512SB with a search mode power draw of about 0.3 watts.
Did you try power saving mode
Thank you for the videos there very helpful for beginners like me.
Great video, as always!
You might want to look into getting a couple of ferule crimpers. One for the larger stuff (battery) and one for the smaller stuff (panels and small ac). They have pretty much become code for everything Europe.
Please do a video on batteryless grid assist inverters where solar is first priority and the shortfall is drawn from the grid.
We are NOT allowed grid tie systems. 90 percent of my power usage is during the day.
Will, you started your video by saying how powerful this system is ...that it can power a cabin yet you only show how to connect one AC (extention cord) outlet. Could you show us beginners how to connect it to a distribution box? I need to connect to: Connecticut-Electric Cesmpsc41grhr Outdoor Power Outlet,120V,30A ...basically its a box with a shore power outlet and two extra regular outlets and breakers.. I know you are tired of catering to beginners but I'm sure many of us could really appreciate your help. Thank you so much for making it possible for off gridders to have electricity:)
Great information man. Really appreciate it. Website is nice too. Very informative!
You are so exciting. I so much want to buy this Solar Array Inverter and 2 Battleborn 12v 100Ah batteries. and 6 100w 12v panels total 24v for 300w it's still over $3000 to power an upright freezer that will cost me $200 a year to run 24/7. 15 years to break even. Still not cost effective...
Thanks for the video, it will work without a solar pannels, i mean only chargin the batterys from the wall? Thanks
I was always taught (here in America) that "L" stood for Load, "N" is for Neutral, and "G" is for Earth Ground.
Wow. Shoulda got these over the Rich solar kit. Only problem I see is the $1500 doesn't include wiring costs of solar to charge controller. Those MC4 connectors and 10 or 8 AWG wire is expensive af.
Hi Will, quick question. Will these units work with both solar and windmills? I live above Winnipeg, Manitoba Canada and in the winter we only get a few hours of sunlight a day but I also live on the shores of Lake Manitoba and we get HUGE amounts of wind here all the time, 24/7. Right now outside at this. moment there's a 30-40kph wind howling away. I'd like to set up a hybrid system, solar and wind, as we can get 18 hours of day light in the summer too. Please advise I absolutely love your channel and advise and reviews you give but it seems to be only about solar and I haven't seen anything on hybrid duel input systems other than grid as the second input.
Will is so talented and cute.
Thanks Will
Good to have your tutorial, Will. How many of these inverters have you installed now, and what would you say about customer satisfaction and general reliability?
Maybe design a system for emergency circuit for people’s home to charge from main when necessary but have their own circuit with gas generator option when needed
This is exactly what I have in mind for my vanlife build. The only thing I am struggling with is the wiring with other components. So few questions if anybody is willing to help:
1. Where would I connect another 24V means of charging (12V alternator with step-up to 24V)? I am struggling with the idea that if I'd connect it to the battery how the charging would work with the power from both the alternator and the 4-in-1 at the same time. Is there some other component needed?
2. Where would you connect the 24V/12V load? Again straight to the battery? No problem there? I think so, just asking to be sure.
3. Just out of curiosity - why would you need a BMS if the battery is connected only to this 4-in-1? I am under the impression that it has all the functionality of BMS except balancing the cells. But you have made a point in some other video that in case of LiFePO4 batteries you practically might need to balance them like once a year or so anyway.
Good questions:
1. 12v to 24v boost converter. Set the output voltage to lifepo4 absorption, 29V. Ensure that boost converter has current limiting.
2. Connect a fused line to battery direct for 24v. If you want 12v appliances, run a 24v to 12v step down converter. Super cheap on amazon.
3. You need bms for multiple other reasons. Temp protection and cell monitoring for LVD and HVD.
Super simple setup. The converters may seem strange and first, but they are dead simple. Read the manual and add fuses where necessary. Ill probably make a blueprint for this in due time. I have a blue print you can follow for 24v to 12v converter here: www.mobile-solarpower.com/2000-watt-24v-solar-system.html
Post any specific questions on the forum and we can help: www.diysolarforum.com
@@WillProwse I do have a question.... should I stick with 12 volt panels or can I use 24 volt panels and still keep my internal system 12 volt?
newbee getting educated.....Thank you
Another great job Will. That system is right in my budget and will be ordering it soon. Thanks
Great video thanks. Can you add a wind mill to this system? If not what alternative hardware can I add so that I can add a windmill and solar panels together.
Awesome! 2,000 watts, so I’m new to this, so for a 6,000 watt system, I’m guessing I’ll need 3 controllers, and 3 batteries? I’m planning on using 10 250 watt solar panels. Will not need a house a/c for an RV, but some type of A/C will be used.
Nice setup , would love to learn na try to power up my shed .thanx
My Pip2424msx has been running 4 years and I have my first issue in that one of the fans failed but as they are standard sizes I replaced all the fans with Noctuas and much quieter. I did manage to break it myself once by overloading the solar side but I repaired that too.
Oh man that's awesome. Which fans are you running exactly?
@@WillProwse The 80mm is the Noctua NF-R8 REDUX 12V 1800RPM and I had problems finding a 50mm but theres space for the 60mm so thats now in place
Great video but 150VDC can kill you if the amps delivered is over 30ma, which those panels can easily deliver and I doubt a 30ma load would drop the open circuit voltage that much. The generally accepted "safe" DC voltages in the US to push the current through a human body is 60VDC for dry conditions and 40VDC for wet conditions.