Same unit is sold under ECO-WORTHY, PowerMr, Chins, and a few others for $125 less. I have the ECO-WORTHY branded one which includes the WiFi adapter. These are amazing value for what they can do.
I think this is the way I am going to go with this solar emergency back up. You get so much more for your money with this compared to ecoflow-bluetti, pecron etc.. It's not plug n play but it is pretty darn close. Plus I like the idea of flexibility with battery's etc.. your not stuck to an overpriced ecosystem.
This is nearly my exact setup. It works well so far, but I've only had it running for a few days. I want the wifi module but it's hard to justify $100 for something unnecessary. I'm glad to see a video for the exact model I have, because I wasn't able to find any previously.
There’s almost nothing out there for this product man. It’s tough. Just new technology. Give it some time and people will start to realize these are the way to go
Going into the future. I have been living on solar for a few years. Right now I am on the grid. I have been grid tied for a year. Not solar dependent. I am reconfiguring to manually bypass my solar charging and all in one system. With these high frequency inverters. Grid power passing thru them just wears on them to little benefit. So the solar all in one set up is truly a plan B for me. Until I become mobile or off grid again.i maintain the batteries with lesser cycles and more longetivity.
This video is superb!! FYI: Aside from the location of the screen, this "24V 3000W All-in-One Hybrid Inverter Charger" is generic and has the same hardware/setup as many other rebranded ones. Thank you for a very detailed and helpful video.
Not trying to be a wet blanket...but it looks like you're coming right off the AC output of the inverter with white Romex (14GA/15A) and feeding a 5-15R receptacle. Then, you're using a changer from that 15A plug to feed your 50A transfer switch (you mentioned 6 circuits?). This Sungoldpower unit can output 3000W (25A). So, if you have more than one 15A circuit lit up on that service box at one time, you're under-cabled and need a 15A breaker in front of the service panel. I'd propose running a 10GA Romex (orange) directly from the AC output to the service panel. Then, if you still want to have a 15A outlet there on the wall, feed it with a 15A breaker from the service panel. Just my 25 cents.
hi so my wife and i want to go camping and we were looking for some kind of portable power, and everything with a good amount of battery was super expensive, and i ended up buying this unit + 16 lfp 50 amp cells, cells were 570 bucks inverter was 650 12 to 24 volt converter so we can charge in the car and 3 100w portable solar panels for 300 dollars. for a grand total of 1500 bucks and we have access to 2.56kwh of charge time, with a 3kw inverter and solar panels when everything else around the 1800wh's was around 1800 dollars to 2500 dollars without the panels and this video is what helped me make the decision to buy the parts
Thank you for featuring this unit. Looks very promising in function and price. Would have appreciated details on the 160a disconnect. Not specifically called out in the manual just a spec. Brand name doesn't Google at least not for me. Please update your description to include a link. Thanks
Thanks Joe! I do try to strike a balance of details since I have viewers who are very experienced, and viewers who are completely new to this stuff...it's a challenge and I'm not always successful. :P
@@ReeWrayOutdoors We'll you're doing a great job! I have a Tesla Solar system but NO batteries. I"m wanting to add batteries and a generator plug exactly what you show in this video down to the two 120 plugs nearby. Right now I'm looking for a company or electrician that is familiar with this stuff to do the installation for me. I am not handy at all so I need help in this area BUT your videos are helping me to decide what type of equipment to consider and I can use your videos to show the contractor what I'm looking to do. They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, well then a video must be worth a million or much more! Thanks again!
Thanks for the review. I'll be getting the 5kw 48v model before the end of the month, as they are on sale for $721 till Nov 30. I just received 8, 550w SunGold Power solar panels to rack on the roof of my motorhome and will use this to charge a 310ah 48v LiFePo-4 battery and provide inverted 110v a/c power for my MH, including my rooftop AC and a mini-split heat pump. I like the fact that this model can operate without a battery if needed, as most all-in-one units must have a battery to function.
re : Jump 1000 & Jackery 1000 comparison video/there was no comment option available on my phone so I'm here as a new subscriber. You can use a wine cork, the plastic one's preferred to be able to clean easily, for plugging open DC female ports. The size is perfect and you can fasten a cord to both easily to link them together. Thanks for the content. I'm off grid since the 1970's and need a solar generator and since lightning struck my panels (long before protectors were available) I'm gonna be viewing quite a bit and appreciating your channel. Thank you
going to have 6 300 w panel, going to build a ground stand then run in the house hooked into this with battery backup and grid power Ill plug into a 110 volt house plug, any suggests
Thanks Arne! I bought that 160A/500V DC breaker on Amazon. Not sure where you're located, but here's the US link: amzn.to/3XPKTL4 I can't say if this breaker is the BEST choice, but it'll certainly get the job done...and it's not an inexpensive piece of hardware.
Awesome review! I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on the Sungold after watching this, but in looking at the minimum voltage required for solar panels it shows a minimum of 120 V. I only have 40 V of the present. I was pretty disappointed. Maybe someday.Thanks again for a great video.
Thank you for posting these. I learned a lot from your videos. I guess if you had some components that ran off DC you could just make a bus bar and draw the power straight from the batteries so you wouldn’t have to draw power to though inverter all the time
Sure! As long as you're matching 24V compatible devices with a 24V battery configuration (or use an appropriate step-down converter....or build a 12V battery configuration instead and pair with a 12V inverter, etc)
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I like the idea of running a 24-v system. There seems to be a lot of step-down converters that are cheap and use less power than the AC inverter
Super helpful video - greatful you put this together for all us who've purchased the Sungold inverter/charger - and thanks for the Wifi Module walkthrough - def gonna use it Suggestion for you - add the link to the Wifi Module to the description :) much luv!
Great video! One question though... how did you decide to orient the 160A breaker the way you did? I bought the same one, and it is marked LINE at the top, and LOAD on the bottom. So in my head, I'm thinking that LINE should go to the battery and LOAD to the inverter. Your thoughts? Have you had any issues with it the way you have it oriented?
This was a really nice review. I want to build a portable power station and this looks perfect for that. QUESTION; so if you put 2 x 100 amp 12 volt batteries in series you get 24 volts. If I want twice the amp hours, will I need to upgrade in pairs of 2 x 12 volt batteries each time? I wanted to use a 12 volt inverter, but can’t find one anything nearly this nice for the price, it’s perfect because the solar and charger are built in. It looks quality, not like the junk on the net?
It's definitely in the 'budget' category but I think quite suitable for building a capable power station rig. You COULD use a 100Ah 24v battery and then simply connect another in parallel to double your capacity...or just buy a 200Ah 24V battery. But if you do start with 2 12V 100Ah batteries, additional 12V batteries would have to be connected in pairs to maintain that 24V system voltage
Hola! Tengo una unidad en mi rancho y presenta muchos problemas en su funcionamiento, nadie nos ayuda a configurarlo, puedes ayudarme? Por favor gracias
Now that you’ve messed with this for a while, have you had any problems with it? I posted a question on a solar Facebook page, and one of the responses was that his failed within a couple of weeks, and Sun Gold Power jerked him around on his warranty. He said that the only way they would communicate with him was through email, which added to his frustration
So far no issues at all. I think it's common with most electronics (certainly computer systems) that if you're going to have an issue, it's most likely to arise in the first few weeks of operation. Past that, you're usually in the clear for the duration. But yeah, no problems - but that also means I haven't had to call into their customer support either, so I don't have any encounters to share either way on that.
Now, the specifications of this same unit says accepts 4,000 watts of solar. I’m thinking of going with this one over the PowerMr. At least Sungold has some California phone support, thanks
I have the same Reliance transfer switch. Why are you stepping down the power cord to the switch using that 15 or 20-amp plug? I think you should be consistent with the wire gauge and wire in a 30-amp box and not a 15 or 20-amp receptacle. When I run my two Honda 2000-watt inverter generators together I plug a 30 amp cord into them and into my Reliance transfer switch/breaker that is wired into my panel as yours is.
Fair point! I only did it that way because it was what I had handy and since I don't typically run more than just a couple of circuits off my transfer switch (and those circuits are not fully utilized), so it seemed like just doing the 15A outlet was the easiest and more general purpose option. I probably should've talked about that a bit in the video.
i have the "48v 5000w" all in one version.. although it can do up to 60v and output 63A continuous so its actually a 7500w unit. ive been having issues with what i assume is programmning. i live in the woods on a 5 acre property and i built this probably $10k system to be fully off grid but i am relying on a 300 foot 10 guage extension cord i built to plug in to a garage in order to charge my batteries because the panels arent charging like theyre supposed to. id love to have a convo withs omeone familiar with these units so i can go over settings and see where the issue is.
there is a lot to unpack there, let me 1st tell you what I have and how its wired. 1 how many panels do you have and how are they wired. I have the same unit as you, 48V 5K wired to (20) 250 watt panels 2 parallel strings of 10 series. 2nd set up your battery type to to match your battery. im running lifepo4 16 cell rack batts 3rd make sure your cut on and off voltages are set correctly in your inverter settings. 4 make sure you have enough battery and panel for your load (usage + charge) for example if you are using everything the panels are making there is no available amps to charge your battery. this is all assuming that the inverter is functioning correctly and not defective.
Very nice and informative video. I just bought a unit from Amazon to replace an older unit (different brand, same layout/design/specs) that was killed be a lightning power surge. I have one thing to ask you though. How can you make it run as a UPS? I tried to do that however the breaker from the main panel where the power plug for the AC charging is connected always trips every time I plug it. The only way I could get it to charge from the grid is to disconnect the AC out. Is there something wrong with my wiring?
@franciserikgura5510 my best guess is maybe you've got a neutral-ground bond in 2 places. Usually these units have a way to disable that bond by removing a screw or jumper. You can test to see if that's what's going on by disconnecting Mains power, then checking for continuity between neutral and ground. If you still have continuity, you'll definitely want to disable that internal bond.
I just wired this same system in a few minutes ago. It comes with ups configuration by default. You definitely have neutral and live mixed somewhere and it's tripping the breaker. I have it feeding a sub panel working as ups without any issues. Also I have no ground wiring
This inverter is 3000W / 24V so the max current draw is 125A. So for wires to the inverter, 2 awg should be fine. And on the batteries, the same 2 awg gauge wire would be fine in this setup since I've connected 2 100A batteries in series. But for the same basic setup where the Inverter is 12V and the batteries are wired in parallel - you'd have double the current potential and so you'd want to go with 2/0 awg. And this is why it's advantageous to go with a 24V/36V/48V configurations for higher loads (>3000W) since cable gauge starts getting inconveniently (and expensively) large. Note that I'm also assuming here that the cable runs are all
@@ReeWrayOutdoors honest to God, I looked at the lugs that came with it, there's no writings... I was so confused 😕 I'm up sizing the cabe to 2AWG and needed larger lugs with same eyehole
I love this! Do you happen to know the exact model of the power transfer switch you have? I would like to provide it to the electrician to explain what I am trying to do.
amzn.to/3DxmjqD. This is the one I have. My electrician did have to do something (I vaguely recall) to set it up for 120v instead of 240v, but it wasn't a big deal. I think, all in, it cost about $1000... parts and labor.
Hi love your videos. I just bought the sun gold 3000w all in one. My question is in setting up the battery parameters I don’t see one for Lp04 lithium types. What should the settings be . Thanks in advance.
Amazon. :P I'm definitely trying to promote that particular breaker, but it's working fine for me. The instructions were all in Chinese :-/ but hey...it's a breaker so...it's not like I needed any installation instructions. ;) But here's the (shameless affiliate) link if you want to check it out: amzn.to/3HWFUTq
My only problem with the set up so far is that they are sending me the kit in sections and about 2 weeks apart. Got the batteries and inverter first. Two weeks later the panels came in. Now I'm waiting on the extension cables and brackets. So if you buy the kit and you think it's all coming in one load it won't
I purchased the same sun gold. I’m trying to do 2s2p with 4 250 watt panels. Open circuit voltage 37.6 each. I know I need some sort of branch connectors and 20 ft extension cable but I can’t figure out the gauge wire I need.
hi i finally got around to putting it all together, but i am having trouble with configuring the unite to charge my lfp's correctly can you make a more in depth video about just the menu i am having a very hard time understanding there instructions manual is not written very well .
These are the panels I'm using: amzn.to/3SwCieL You can see how I built me small 800W array here if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/2vstcsJR54k/w-d-xo.html
I just acquired a different brand of what I believe to be the same all-in-one as you have. My unit's specs says, in the battery wiring section, that the breaker should be 160 amps, just as yours is, but that the battery should have a 140 amp discharge current. I noticed that you have series connected two 12 volt batteries that i believe are 100 amp max discharge current as limited by their BMS. Am I correct in understanding that you still just have 100 amps available from the batteries paired that way? I was assuming that the 140 amps was required to get the full 3000 watts of power from the unit and, by my calculations it would, down to about 21.5 volts. I realize that this is a demonstration video, so were you just keeping it simple for the video rather than trying to get maximum power from the unit? I'm asking for your help on this because I'm looking for all the power that I can get and my next move was going to be buying a pretty expensive 24 volt battery with a 150 amp BMS. I have 2 12volt 100 amp batteries that I could wire like yours if it would give me the 140 amps that I need. Just need to know if I'm thinking right before I buy the larger battery. Help!
Thanks for answering my questions , I really appreciate it. I have just ordered everything in this setup. I am taking my shop off grid and going solar only , my only concern is starting up and using my air compressor which is 120v, 60 Hz, 14.5 A , 2 HP, 20 gal . Do you think using your setup as pictured will work for me? Thanks
Hard to say for sure on that compressor. Might be cutting it close. I'd recommend asking the Mfg of the compressor what the continuous and peak power draw on your compressor. As long as it doesn't exceed 3000W/6000W, you should be ok.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors just now seeing this, hope it helps other future viewers. to calculate watts the formula is Amps times volts (VA=w) so for the OP's question the compressor has a max draw of 120V X 14.5A =1740 watts so real world you will need 2k watts of panel production while in operation of a combination of panel input and battery of ample size to support load, with no other loads present.
Okay newbie dork question buttttt I have two 12V 200Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Battery wired in series for 24V and the charger I currently own is a 7 stage impulse charger 12V 20Ah . So it's under powered by what I have read. I do have a Powermax 110V A/C inverter to 24V D/C 50Ah output. I don't think that will work like I use to use for AGM batteries
If you can I need some advice , I have the same same setup as you have here , I only want solar charging no grid, system is showing it is charging from solar to battery and to my shop but, the volts keep dropping and in time will completely discharge my batteries. I have 4 200 watt panels in series which gives me 80-82v coming in , I also tried the series and parallel combo which gave me 42v and 22amps, but neither way would keep my batteries from going all the way to dead. Acts like system is not even charging batteries at all even though it shows it is. I have contacted Sungoldpower but no help at all. Thanks
Being 2mths ago since you asked this, you probably already figured it out...but, I just ordered this unit and manual says...PV operating voltage range 120-450Vdc...so your 80-82v needs to be bumped up to 120v min...more panels.
1 yr later a) have you used this the whole time? B) has it held up? C) have you used their customer support? And finally D) should people consider this purchase over more expensive brands?
Great video, wish you had an exact list of all the items you used to set this up. Viewing the video a few times, I've been able to figure out all the items you used but stuck on the one for the solar panels. What type of breaker are you using? that runs via the mc4's? Also what wattage are you running into that breaker from your solar panels? Thanks! Vid was excellent.
The breaker I'm using is this one: amzn.to/3mOSEn6 It's a 1000V/25A breaker dual pole. Perfect for my 800W series setup, but also just right for 2S2P configuration as well. If you have a bigger panel array than that though, you'd obviously want something with a higher current rating. When I've got my 4 200W panels in series, I'm getting about 84V through the breaker...and half that when using 2S2P (I do have to reconfig as needed when I'm testing input on various systems).
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I'm also doing 4 200W panels in series, to get 800W. Did you get 12v panels or 24v panels to use on this 24V system? I will be using 2 12V 100ah batteries to create 24V battery for the all in one charger/inverter system. Do you have a different video on how to setup the 1000V/25A breaker dual pole? It's my first time trying to do that. I looked on the site you mention (Shop Solar Kits) for the all in one setups, but they lack any info on these specific details. I also read the manual but a bit confusing still. Thanks again. I only stopped by here because SunGoldPower has you on their landing page on their website. Congrats! You should add a shopping list to your description so others don't have to bother you, like I am 🙂
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Just to clarify, the manual does state "Maximum PV input current: 40A" and "Recommended air switch or circuit breaker type: 2P-63A" and you are using the 1000V/25A version. So would there be any trouble if you used the 1000V/63A version of this breaker? Wondering why you used the manual specs for "Recommended battery input wire diameter and switch selection" but not for "Refer to the table below for PV input wire diameter and switch" - Thanks again.
@@c3r0 Mostly just because I'd already had my 800W array installed with the 25A breaker before I got the 3000W inverter. So it's fine for me as it is, but at some point, I'll definitely want to put more solar up and I'll need to upgrade that breaker when that time comes.
All in one is for my the last way to go.. I learn the lesson .. and when you call for warranty they take forever to respond and a long..... prosses to give you warranty cover
That's the problem I have with the bigger solar generators. If something pukes; you have to send the whole unit back to Wherever. I honestly prefer the component builds over an all-in-one unit.
I've run a modular approach to my solar system and what I've found is that charge controllers don't break, also I run 2 make sky-blue charge controllers in parallel with this charge controller so each array is separate from the next. My grid charger also is exceptionally reliable and that also can be in parallel. What I've found is that inverters most frequently fail and it's the capacitors in them that fail. I was of the same mindset for a long time but this system is really nice
I bought the SRNE hybrid solar inverter. I am going to in stall it with change over switch ,and 2 40amp 2p breakers for feed to inv and load from inv and a earth leakage breaker. And connect that to my house dB board .is there any info or wiring diagram you can help me with
Question regarding the Reliance Power Transfer Switch. I have one wired in which came with my house. I have a gas generator with a reliance power cord 30am which plugs into the box. Do you have a video on your setup or diagram and or link to the power cord adapter with the green ends? Best method of connecting to a transfer switch?
Yeah, I bought this RV30 to 110V 3-prong adapter so I'd have the option to supply power with any of my power stations and not just the couple I have with RV30 outputs. Here's the one I bought: amzn.to/3WAEVwi
Any chance you could send me the settings you are using for lithium batteries. I have two new 280 amp hour coming and want to stop using the user settings and start using the lithium settings but don't know what settings need changed.
Have you done a load test with this inverter? I have the same one and it faults out at around 900 watts with low voltage error. Any suggestions on what's wrong?
Hmmm I know I've had more than 1000W on it without an issue. But I'll retest as soon as I get a couple of other batteries charged up (I'm prepping my other pair for a 2S2P setup here shortly). Have you reached out to SGP tech support?
@@brianwedge5497 does it fault immediately at around 900W, or after some period of time? I did just confirm that mine will run 2900W without faulting. And I don't have 2 of the Ampere time batteries, but I connected 1 in series to a Timeusb battery, and I'm not seeing any issues yet.
Do you have any grounding on the inverter or the batteries? I ordered a new breaker for the positive side. I hear a click after around thirty seconds and it faults out and tries again until it quits trying.
300W of solar is pretty low...assuming the capacity of the battery bank it's connected to is more than about 1200Wh. That said, the minimum output voltage of the panel would need to be greater than 30V or you'll get no charge input, since the PV input voltage range is 30-100V.
Perhaps I’m confused about the AC out grounding wiring. I assume the Pro Tran transfer switch is grounded to the residential service panel so a floating neutral generator can be plugged into the transfer switch creating only one source for grounding. If this is correct, then the AC out ground wire should not be connected to the inverter? On some inverters, this double grounding can cause voltage on the neutral and ground wire including tripping GFI circuits. Any thoughts/education on this issue?
Thanks for the quick reply; it is most appreciated. (I was waiting to hear back from Sun Gold Power on the same question.) Enjoy your channel and the video on the: “DIY: Let's Build an 800W Ground Solar Array for Emergency Backup Power.” If you have the time, I have a few more questions to complete my design build project like yours. 1. The manual recommends the AC out wire as 8 AWG. For a 3000W inverter, I would assume 10 AWG (30 amp) would be sufficient since my Pro Tran ten circuit switch is rated for 30 amps and the breakers in the switch would trip before it got close to the amps for 8 AWG solid copper residential wire. Thoughts? 2. Also, the AC in wire is recommended for 8 AWG. I would assume a 10 or 12 AWG wire standard three prong plug would be OK to plug into a non-switched/dedicated 20 amp grid outlet would be sufficient (to keep the battery bank “top-offed” under a UPS - laptop scenario as you demonstrated in your video)? I plan on keeping 3 critical circuits on the Pro Tran that power Fiber Input, Router, NVR security cameras, and Plex server running during intermittent power outages greater than my per line APC UPS (i.e., 30 minutes to an hour). Thoughts? 3. Is 2 AWG wire sufficient for all the connections in a 2s2p configuration using four 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries? Any thoughts on using an Ampper High Current 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch to isolate the 24 V battery banks before the monster DC breaker? Just in case one of the batteries goes flaky. 4. Perhaps I missed it, but what gage was the PV wire used for the 800W Ground Solar Array?
Thanks for the heads-up. Looks like they're not selling that particular model on Amazon right now and they did a switch-a-roo on the listing. Here's the closest model they're selling on Amazon right now (upgraded charger, and solar input capacity, but 2400W instead of 3000W): amzn.to/3NyyusY The 3K/24V is still available on their website though, if you'd prefer that: bit.ly/3NBAqRl
@ReeWrayOutdoors, I've been on TH-cam for a while, but I never learned how to message or contact someone on a channel. How can I reach you to ask some questions that would be long and drawn out on this platform?
DOH!!! I actually had a clip showing that and somehow failed to mention it and so it didn't get inserted. :-/ The fan does not typically kick on unless it's charging/discharging somewhere around 800W+. And the fans are variable speed and mostly in the 65dB range. But when you get over the 1000W draw, the fans will kick all the way on and it IS fairly loud at that point...about 85dB I think. So, definitely a consideration if you're in a small space and don't have an easy way to confine it to a space that can provide some sound isolation.
I have been watching TH-cam videos. Everyone always say not to back feed into the grid. I see people literal have to turn off the panel breaker first. Will this Sungold back feed into the grid? I am still new and very confuse about this back feed process.
sorry this is late, but hope it helps other newbs. DO NOT BACKFEED GRID. 1st is the precautions if power fails you have to have a auto disconnect, 2nd power companies pay trash for generation. 3rd you have to BUY from the power company a meter that can work if you dont have one.
I wonder if there's a way to get this installed into an RV; SunGold makes an inverter/charger that I guess specifically is for RV applications, but it's more money than this...
Any one know what the no load power consumption is of these hybrid units (both with only a grid connection and with only a battery connection)? It seems like that would be good to know before purchasing one of these. I can't seem to find this on any of the specs I've been looking at.
Quick question I was looking at the spec sheet it says voltage range for solar 120-400vdc. My panels are 37.40vdc 250watts 16x pannels should i put my panels in series to achieve the 120v or will 37.40v charge the batteries without them being in series?
Maybe you're looking at a slightly different model, but the one in this video is a 24V / 3000W AIO Hybrid. My manual says the Solar (PV) Operating Voltage Range is 30-100Vdc. Also, I'm not sure I understand your setup. You have 16 of those 37V 250W panels? And if the actual operating voltage range of the model you're looking at is 120-400V, you will need at LEAST 120V input for the charge controller to begin sending power to the batteries.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors without knowing the panel amps and the max amps input of the inverter there is no way to answer the question. but without knowing that, it should be a 2P8S setup. and he has a different (newer) model inverter.
What system do you recomend for someone that is not that bright when it comes to electronics like me? Age and lock of knowledge is always an obstacle in the new world of sience.😢
Depends on what you want it to do, really. :) You can do alot with a Portable Power Station, but there are trade-offs for that convenience (generally higher cost and less expandability).
I’m trying to install the Wi-Fi on my inverter, it’s telling me when trying to finish setup that the datalogger already exists and won’t continue any idea ?
I seem to recall that I ran into that something similar when I was doing the 'redo' of the setup for the video. I think I ended up deleting the wifi module from the app (might've been some option to unbind or something like that? Can't recall for certain) and starting from scratch. The biggest confusion for me was just being patient enough to wait after the initial data-logger setup to let the system do whatever it needs to do (for about an hour maybe) and let the data-logger eventually show-up in the app. Definitely not very intuitive setup, which is why I tried to show it in the video. :P
couple of quick thoughts... Check the open circuit voltage on your incoming solar leads and make sure you're getting the minimum required 30V or higher for the SGP charge controller to begin charging. Definitely ensure your polarity is not reversed. Then also check to ensure that parameter 06 (Charger source priority) is not set to CUB - since it will only charge PV if grid is disconnect in that mode.
@@gregsdroneservices I I have a video that shows series and parallel (separately) but doesn't show Series/parallel. I'm actually planning to do one on 2S2P configuration as soon as I can find the time - probably some time in the next few weeks. :) Here's the other video, if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/EDLxolJ0QxI/w-d-xo.html
Ok so using your 160 amp breaker setup, how would I then wire the batteries to a bus bar in order to power my dc circuits. Just another wire coming off the actual battery terminal?
Which would leave only 1 wire going to the pos and neg terminals on the battery. I hope you can kinda picture my set up lol. Can’t figure out this part
@Bobby McGee I'd recommend putting the breaker between the battery and everything else. Then you can protect the smaller gauge wire on the other side of the breaker with appropriately sized fuses...either in-line or fuse block.
Same unit is sold under ECO-WORTHY, PowerMr, Chins, and a few others for $125 less. I have the ECO-WORTHY branded one which includes the WiFi adapter. These are amazing value for what they can do.
I think this is the way I am going to go with this solar emergency back up. You get so much more for your money with this compared to ecoflow-bluetti, pecron etc.. It's not plug n play but it is pretty darn close. Plus I like the idea of flexibility with battery's etc.. your not stuck to an overpriced ecosystem.
This is nearly my exact setup. It works well so far, but I've only had it running for a few days. I want the wifi module but it's hard to justify $100 for something unnecessary. I'm glad to see a video for the exact model I have, because I wasn't able to find any previously.
There’s almost nothing out there for this product man. It’s tough. Just new technology. Give it some time and people will start to realize these are the way to go
Going into the future. I have been living on solar for a few years. Right now I am on the grid. I have been grid tied for a year. Not solar dependent. I am reconfiguring to manually bypass my solar charging and all in one system. With these high frequency inverters. Grid power passing thru them just wears on them to little benefit. So the solar all in one set up is truly a plan B for me. Until I become mobile or off grid again.i maintain the batteries with lesser cycles and more longetivity.
This video is superb!! FYI: Aside from the location of the screen, this "24V 3000W All-in-One Hybrid Inverter Charger" is generic and has the same hardware/setup as many other rebranded ones. Thank you for a very detailed and helpful video.
Not trying to be a wet blanket...but it looks like you're coming right off the AC output of the inverter with white Romex (14GA/15A) and feeding a 5-15R receptacle. Then, you're using a changer from that 15A plug to feed your 50A transfer switch (you mentioned 6 circuits?). This Sungoldpower unit can output 3000W (25A). So, if you have more than one 15A circuit lit up on that service box at one time, you're under-cabled and need a 15A breaker in front of the service panel. I'd propose running a 10GA Romex (orange) directly from the AC output to the service panel. Then, if you still want to have a 15A outlet there on the wall, feed it with a 15A breaker from the service panel. Just my 25 cents.
hi so my wife and i want to go camping and we were looking for some kind of portable power, and everything with a good amount of battery was super expensive, and i ended up buying this unit + 16 lfp 50 amp cells, cells were 570 bucks inverter was 650 12 to 24 volt converter so we can charge in the car and 3 100w portable solar panels for 300 dollars.
for a grand total of 1500 bucks and we have access to 2.56kwh of charge time, with a 3kw inverter and solar panels
when everything else around the 1800wh's was around 1800 dollars to 2500 dollars without the panels
and this video is what helped me make the decision to buy the parts
Thank you for featuring this unit. Looks very promising in function and price. Would have appreciated details on the 160a disconnect. Not specifically called out in the manual just a spec. Brand name doesn't Google at least not for me. Please update your description to include a link. Thanks
Ditto
X3!
Yes I’d also like to know the breaker on the solar wires
Great video, especially doing the laptop. Example that really makes it easy for a lot of us to understand.
Thanks Joe! I do try to strike a balance of details since I have viewers who are very experienced, and viewers who are completely new to this stuff...it's a challenge and I'm not always successful. :P
@@ReeWrayOutdoors We'll you're doing a great job! I have a Tesla Solar system but NO batteries. I"m wanting to add batteries and a generator plug exactly what you show in this video down to the two 120 plugs nearby. Right now I'm looking for a company or electrician that is familiar with this stuff to do the installation for me. I am not handy at all so I need help in this area BUT your videos are helping me to decide what type of equipment to consider and I can use your videos to show the contractor what I'm looking to do. They say a picture is worth a 1,000 words, well then a video must be worth a million or much more! Thanks again!
Thanks for the review. I'll be getting the 5kw 48v model before the end of the month, as they are on sale for $721 till Nov 30. I just received 8, 550w SunGold Power solar panels to rack on the roof of my motorhome and will use this to charge a 310ah 48v LiFePo-4 battery and provide inverted 110v a/c power for my MH, including my rooftop AC and a mini-split heat pump. I like the fact that this model can operate without a battery if needed, as most all-in-one units must have a battery to function.
So you mean this would run off the solar without batteries? Thanks
Was your DC breaker made by Sungold as well?
@@jerrytalley802 It can, but only when the sun is shining.
Could you give us an update? Still working to spec? Happy with it? Thanks.
Awesome! I’m doing this setup in my tiny home build. Good info
re : Jump 1000 & Jackery 1000 comparison video/there was no comment option available on my phone so I'm here as a new subscriber.
You can use a wine cork, the plastic one's preferred to be able to clean easily, for plugging open DC female ports. The size is perfect and you can fasten a cord to both easily to link them together.
Thanks for the content. I'm off grid since the 1970's and need a solar generator and since lightning struck my panels (long before protectors were available) I'm gonna be viewing quite a bit and appreciating your channel.
Thank you
A cork!! Excellent idea!! Thanks for sharing that, and thanks for the kind words! Sincerely appreciated, my friend!
Thank you SO MUCH for sharing ! Detailed !
Im most definetly going with this setup.
Thank you.
going to have 6 300 w panel, going to build a ground stand then run in the house hooked into this with battery backup and grid power Ill plug into a 110 volt house plug, any suggests
Thanks for the video! Got mine setup on Sunday. Any chance you can share your settings?
Great instructional video! 👏👏👏 If you can let me know where you got that beefy DC breaker.
Thanks Arne! I bought that 160A/500V DC breaker on Amazon. Not sure where you're located, but here's the US link: amzn.to/3XPKTL4 I can't say if this breaker is the BEST choice, but it'll certainly get the job done...and it's not an inexpensive piece of hardware.
Amazon $100
Awesome review! I was just getting ready to pull the trigger on the Sungold after watching this, but in looking at the minimum voltage required for solar panels it shows a minimum of 120 V. I only have 40 V of the present. I was pretty disappointed. Maybe someday.Thanks again for a great video.
Thank you for posting these. I learned a lot from your videos. I guess if you had some components that ran off DC you could just make a bus bar and draw the power straight from the batteries so you wouldn’t have to draw power to though inverter all the time
Sure! As long as you're matching 24V compatible devices with a 24V battery configuration (or use an appropriate step-down converter....or build a 12V battery configuration instead and pair with a 12V inverter, etc)
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I like the idea of running a 24-v system. There seems to be a lot of step-down converters that are cheap and use less power than the AC inverter
@@steveschaefer5835 Yep, I'm right there with you on that!
Super helpful video - greatful you put this together for all us who've purchased the Sungold inverter/charger - and thanks for the Wifi Module walkthrough - def gonna use it
Suggestion for you - add the link to the Wifi Module to the description :)
much luv!
Doh!! You're right! :P Thanks for the catch!
great video. a clearly communicated and well thought out presentation. Utube needs more like this:)
I can configure my inverter settings from the app. It's awesome
Great video! One question though... how did you decide to orient the 160A breaker the way you did? I bought the same one, and it is marked LINE at the top, and LOAD on the bottom. So in my head, I'm thinking that LINE should go to the battery and LOAD to the inverter. Your thoughts? Have you had any issues with it the way you have it oriented?
This was a really nice review. I want to build a portable power station and this looks perfect for that. QUESTION; so if you put 2 x 100 amp 12 volt batteries in series you get 24 volts. If I want twice the amp hours, will I need to upgrade in pairs of 2 x 12 volt batteries each time? I wanted to use a 12 volt inverter, but can’t find one anything nearly this nice for the price, it’s perfect because the solar and charger are built in. It looks quality, not like the junk on the net?
It's definitely in the 'budget' category but I think quite suitable for building a capable power station rig. You COULD use a 100Ah 24v battery and then simply connect another in parallel to double your capacity...or just buy a 200Ah 24V battery. But if you do start with 2 12V 100Ah batteries, additional 12V batteries would have to be connected in pairs to maintain that 24V system voltage
Thanks, I figured the battery setup would have to be pairs of 12 volt in parallel, thanks
Nice explanations of set up. I have the same system except it is labeled CHINS, for which I could not find a video.
Hola! Tengo una unidad en mi rancho y presenta muchos problemas en su funcionamiento, nadie nos ayuda a configurarlo, puedes ayudarme? Por favor gracias
Now that you’ve messed with this for a while, have you had any problems with it? I posted a question on a solar Facebook page, and one of the responses was that his failed within a couple of weeks, and Sun Gold Power jerked him around on his warranty. He said that the only way they would communicate with him was through email, which added to his frustration
So far no issues at all. I think it's common with most electronics (certainly computer systems) that if you're going to have an issue, it's most likely to arise in the first few weeks of operation. Past that, you're usually in the clear for the duration. But yeah, no problems - but that also means I haven't had to call into their customer support either, so I don't have any encounters to share either way on that.
Thanks
Excelente video pero cuantos paneles solares serian sufisiente y de cuantos vatios
great video and product review - thank you
Now, the specifications of this same unit says accepts 4,000 watts of solar. I’m thinking of going with this one over the PowerMr. At least Sungold has some California phone support, thanks
I have the same Reliance transfer switch. Why are you stepping down the power cord to the switch using that 15 or 20-amp plug? I think you should be consistent with the wire gauge and wire in a 30-amp box and not a 15 or 20-amp receptacle. When I run my two Honda 2000-watt inverter generators together I plug a 30 amp cord into them and into my Reliance transfer switch/breaker that is wired into my panel as yours is.
Fair point! I only did it that way because it was what I had handy and since I don't typically run more than just a couple of circuits off my transfer switch (and those circuits are not fully utilized), so it seemed like just doing the 15A outlet was the easiest and more general purpose option. I probably should've talked about that a bit in the video.
i have the "48v 5000w" all in one version.. although it can do up to 60v and output 63A continuous so its actually a 7500w unit. ive been having issues with what i assume is programmning. i live in the woods on a 5 acre property and i built this probably $10k system to be fully off grid but i am relying on a 300 foot 10 guage extension cord i built to plug in to a garage in order to charge my batteries because the panels arent charging like theyre supposed to. id love to have a convo withs omeone familiar with these units so i can go over settings and see where the issue is.
there is a lot to unpack there, let me 1st tell you what I have and how its wired. 1 how many panels do you have and how are they wired. I have the same unit as you, 48V 5K wired to (20) 250 watt panels 2 parallel strings of 10 series. 2nd set up your battery type to to match your battery. im running lifepo4 16 cell rack batts 3rd make sure your cut on and off voltages are set correctly in your inverter settings. 4 make sure you have enough battery and panel for your load (usage + charge) for example if you are using everything the panels are making there is no available amps to charge your battery. this is all assuming that the inverter is functioning correctly and not defective.
Can you share the link for the transfer switch ?
How many solor panels and wats for panels
Your a smart man, thank you.
Very nice and informative video. I just bought a unit from Amazon to replace an older unit (different brand, same layout/design/specs) that was killed be a lightning power surge. I have one thing to ask you though. How can you make it run as a UPS? I tried to do that however the breaker from the main panel where the power plug for the AC charging is connected always trips every time I plug it. The only way I could get it to charge from the grid is to disconnect the AC out. Is there something wrong with my wiring?
@franciserikgura5510 my best guess is maybe you've got a neutral-ground bond in 2 places. Usually these units have a way to disable that bond by removing a screw or jumper. You can test to see if that's what's going on by disconnecting Mains power, then checking for continuity between neutral and ground. If you still have continuity, you'll definitely want to disable that internal bond.
I just wired this same system in a few minutes ago. It comes with ups configuration by default. You definitely have neutral and live mixed somewhere and it's tripping the breaker. I have it feeding a sub panel working as ups without any issues. Also I have no ground wiring
What size battery wire are you using to connect batteries and also what size from battery to Inverter ? thanks
This inverter is 3000W / 24V so the max current draw is 125A. So for wires to the inverter, 2 awg should be fine. And on the batteries, the same 2 awg gauge wire would be fine in this setup since I've connected 2 100A batteries in series. But for the same basic setup where the Inverter is 12V and the batteries are wired in parallel - you'd have double the current potential and so you'd want to go with 2/0 awg. And this is why it's advantageous to go with a 24V/36V/48V configurations for higher loads (>3000W) since cable gauge starts getting inconveniently (and expensively) large. Note that I'm also assuming here that the cable runs are all
@@ReeWrayOutdoorswhat size are those lugs (eye-size) attached on the inverter +/- connection?
@@vroor32 on the battery connectors, it uses (per the manual) ring terminals with a 5mm inside diameter
@@ReeWrayOutdoors honest to God, I looked at the lugs that came with it, there's no writings... I was so confused 😕 I'm up sizing the cabe to 2AWG and needed larger lugs with same eyehole
Would you happen to have the parameters for your set up? Or could you do a video showing how you set up your controller
I love this! Do you happen to know the exact model of the power transfer switch you have? I would like to provide it to the electrician to explain what I am trying to do.
amzn.to/3DxmjqD. This is the one I have. My electrician did have to do something (I vaguely recall) to set it up for 120v instead of 240v, but it wasn't a big deal. I think, all in, it cost about $1000... parts and labor.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors this link behaves suspicious
QUESTION; Are you supposed to put a breaker in the solar line as well or do they even make them?
Hi love your videos. I just bought the sun gold 3000w all in one. My question is in setting up the battery parameters I don’t see one for Lp04 lithium types. What should the settings be . Thanks in advance.
Very gooodd vide. It's helping me install mmy new PowMr unit.
Where did you get the big beefy 160-amp breaker from??
Amazon. :P I'm definitely trying to promote that particular breaker, but it's working fine for me. The instructions were all in Chinese :-/ but hey...it's a breaker so...it's not like I needed any installation instructions. ;) But here's the (shameless affiliate) link if you want to check it out: amzn.to/3HWFUTq
My only problem with the set up so far is that they are sending me the kit in sections and about 2 weeks apart. Got the batteries and inverter first. Two weeks later the panels came in. Now I'm waiting on the extension cables and brackets. So if you buy the kit and you think it's all coming in one load it won't
Do you not need fusing between your solar array and the inv erter and between the inverter and the ac input/outputs?
Does it have auto restart if on battery and the voltage drops too low, and then batteries are recharged from solar?
How did you mount that breaker? Mine came with two bolts. There is no way to attach them to a 3/4 sheet of plywood.
Can you please give me a recommendations compartable generator for this unit for it to enable me to charge my batteries if needed thank you in advance
I purchased the same sun gold. I’m trying to do 2s2p with 4 250 watt panels. Open circuit voltage 37.6 each. I know I need some sort of branch connectors and 20 ft extension cable but I can’t figure out the gauge wire I need.
hi i finally got around to putting it all together, but i am having trouble with configuring the unite to charge my lfp's correctly
can you make a more in depth video about just the menu i am having a very hard time understanding there instructions manual
is not written very well .
Congrats to you! You are the first person to recommend using a bogas home address. 😇😇😇
haha yeah, not sure why that field was marked as 'required'.
What solar panels did you use with this setup ? thanks
These are the panels I'm using: amzn.to/3SwCieL You can see how I built me small 800W array here if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/2vstcsJR54k/w-d-xo.html
I just acquired a different brand of what I believe to be the same all-in-one as you have. My unit's specs says, in the battery wiring section, that the breaker should be 160 amps, just as yours is, but that the battery should have a 140 amp discharge current. I noticed that you have series connected two 12 volt batteries that i believe are 100 amp max discharge current as limited by their BMS. Am I correct in understanding that you still just have 100 amps available from the batteries paired that way? I was assuming that the 140 amps was required to get the full 3000 watts of power from the unit and, by my calculations it would, down to about 21.5 volts. I realize that this is a demonstration video, so were you just keeping it simple for the video rather than trying to get maximum power from the unit? I'm asking for your help on this because I'm looking for all the power that I can get and my next move was going to be buying a pretty expensive 24 volt battery with a 150 amp BMS. I have 2 12volt 100 amp batteries that I could wire like yours if it would give me the 140 amps that I need. Just need to know if I'm thinking right before I buy the larger battery. Help!
Very informative and a great job 👍
Thanks! 👍
Thanks for answering my questions , I really appreciate it. I have just ordered everything in this setup. I am taking my shop off grid and going solar only , my only concern is starting up and using my air compressor which is 120v, 60 Hz, 14.5 A , 2 HP, 20 gal . Do you think using your setup as pictured will work for me? Thanks
Hard to say for sure on that compressor. Might be cutting it close. I'd recommend asking the Mfg of the compressor what the continuous and peak power draw on your compressor. As long as it doesn't exceed 3000W/6000W, you should be ok.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors just now seeing this, hope it helps other future viewers. to calculate watts the formula is Amps times volts (VA=w) so for the OP's question the compressor has a max draw of 120V X 14.5A =1740 watts so real world you will need 2k watts of panel production while in operation of a combination of panel input and battery of ample size to support load, with no other loads present.
How many panels i need 3 or 4, 12 or 24 volt panel, and other information on the panels to know to buy the correct ones , ill hook in series correct
Do you happen to have a link to the breaker? Love this setup. Thanks for sharing.
Here's the specific one I used: amzn.to/47nBFv3
@@ReeWrayOutdoors This link behaves suspicious.
@@HealTheWorld888 does it? How so?
Okay newbie dork question buttttt I have two 12V 200Ah Lithium LiFePO4 Battery wired in series for 24V and the charger I currently own is a 7 stage impulse charger 12V 20Ah . So it's under powered by what I have read. I do have a Powermax 110V A/C inverter to 24V D/C 50Ah output. I don't think that will work like I use to use for AGM batteries
Is it possible for you to find out whether the ground neutral bond is established within the inverter or if it needs to be established separately?
Can you add more 24v batteries to boost the run time?
I plan on pairing this with 2 100ah lithium’s 24v. And 800w solar. Will that be sufficient
Souldn't there be a breaker on the AC outlet? The instructions says to put one.
If you can I need some advice , I have the same same setup as you have here , I only want solar charging no grid, system is showing it is charging from solar to battery and to my shop but, the volts keep dropping and in time will completely discharge my batteries. I have 4 200 watt panels in series which gives me 80-82v coming in , I also tried the series and parallel combo which gave me 42v and 22amps, but neither way would keep my batteries from going all the way to dead. Acts like system is not even charging batteries at all even though it shows it is. I have contacted Sungoldpower but no help at all. Thanks
Being 2mths ago since you asked this, you probably already figured it out...but, I just ordered this unit and manual says...PV operating voltage range 120-450Vdc...so your 80-82v needs to be bumped up to 120v min...more panels.
1 yr later a) have you used this the whole time? B) has it held up? C) have you used their customer support? And finally D) should people consider this purchase over more expensive brands?
Great video, wish you had an exact list of all the items you used to set this up. Viewing the video a few times, I've been able to figure out all the items you used but stuck on the one for the solar panels. What type of breaker are you using? that runs via the mc4's? Also what wattage are you running into that breaker from your solar panels? Thanks! Vid was excellent.
The breaker I'm using is this one: amzn.to/3mOSEn6 It's a 1000V/25A breaker dual pole. Perfect for my 800W series setup, but also just right for 2S2P configuration as well. If you have a bigger panel array than that though, you'd obviously want something with a higher current rating. When I've got my 4 200W panels in series, I'm getting about 84V through the breaker...and half that when using 2S2P (I do have to reconfig as needed when I'm testing input on various systems).
@@ReeWrayOutdoors I'm also doing 4 200W panels in series, to get 800W. Did you get 12v panels or 24v panels to use on this 24V system? I will be using 2 12V 100ah batteries to create 24V battery for the all in one charger/inverter system. Do you have a different video on how to setup the 1000V/25A breaker dual pole? It's my first time trying to do that. I looked on the site you mention (Shop Solar Kits) for the all in one setups, but they lack any info on these specific details. I also read the manual but a bit confusing still. Thanks again. I only stopped by here because SunGoldPower has you on their landing page on their website. Congrats! You should add a shopping list to your description so others don't have to bother you, like I am 🙂
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Just to clarify, the manual does state "Maximum PV input current: 40A" and "Recommended air switch or circuit breaker type: 2P-63A" and you are using the 1000V/25A version. So would there be any trouble if you used the 1000V/63A version of this breaker? Wondering why you used the manual specs for "Recommended battery input wire diameter and switch selection" but not for "Refer to the table below for PV input wire diameter and switch" - Thanks again.
@@c3r0 Mostly just because I'd already had my 800W array installed with the 25A breaker before I got the 3000W inverter. So it's fine for me as it is, but at some point, I'll definitely want to put more solar up and I'll need to upgrade that breaker when that time comes.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors And you using 8AWG on 25A version? or 10AWG? on those MC4's
very thorough. thank you
The problem I see with these all in one units is if something happens you can't just replace the part, you have to replace the whole unit.
All in one is for my the last way to go..
I learn the lesson .. and when you call for warranty they take forever to respond and a long..... prosses to give you warranty cover
That's the problem I have with the bigger solar generators. If something pukes; you have to send the whole unit back to Wherever. I honestly prefer the component builds over an all-in-one unit.
Thats not really an issue.
@The Solar Junkie lol no
I've run a modular approach to my solar system and what I've found is that charge controllers don't break, also I run 2 make sky-blue charge controllers in parallel with this charge controller so each array is separate from the next. My grid charger also is exceptionally reliable and that also can be in parallel. What I've found is that inverters most frequently fail and it's the capacitors in them that fail. I was of the same mindset for a long time but this system is really nice
I bought the SRNE hybrid solar inverter. I am going to in stall it with change over switch ,and 2 40amp 2p breakers for feed to inv and load from inv and a earth leakage breaker. And connect that to my house dB board .is there any info or wiring diagram you can help me with
I cannot get the green icon on the datalogger screen to go green. The one you mentioned that had the little antenna pointing to the left. Any ideas?
Question regarding the Reliance Power Transfer Switch. I have one wired in which came with my house. I have a gas generator with a reliance power cord 30am which plugs into the box. Do you have a video on your setup or diagram and or link to the power cord adapter with the green ends? Best method of connecting to a transfer switch?
Yeah, I bought this RV30 to 110V 3-prong adapter so I'd have the option to supply power with any of my power stations and not just the couple I have with RV30 outputs. Here's the one I bought: amzn.to/3WAEVwi
Any chance you could send me the settings you are using for lithium batteries. I have two new 280 amp hour coming and want to stop using the user settings and start using the lithium settings but don't know what settings need changed.
Does the inverter get hot whilst not in use and connected to grid power ?
Do the panels have to be wired in parallel.
How does this sungoldpower 3000W all in one compared to other brands?
Each of my 250watt panels is 37.6v. I was going to 2s2p the panels. Can this sun gold charge controller handle that?
Have you done a load test with this inverter? I have the same one and it faults out at around 900 watts with low voltage error. Any suggestions on what's wrong?
Hmmm I know I've had more than 1000W on it without an issue. But I'll retest as soon as I get a couple of other batteries charged up (I'm prepping my other pair for a 2S2P setup here shortly). Have you reached out to SGP tech support?
They are blaming ampree time and vs versa
@@brianwedge5497 does it fault immediately at around 900W, or after some period of time? I did just confirm that mine will run 2900W without faulting. And I don't have 2 of the Ampere time batteries, but I connected 1 in series to a Timeusb battery, and I'm not seeing any issues yet.
Do you have any grounding on the inverter or the batteries? I ordered a new breaker for the positive side. I hear a click after around thirty seconds and it faults out and tries again until it quits trying.
@@brianwedge5497 No grounding, unless I have the AC input plugged-in (and I didn't during the testing).
I have a single 300-watt 10BB mono solar panel and 12V 100Ah, would it be sufficient for this inverter?
300W of solar is pretty low...assuming the capacity of the battery bank it's connected to is more than about 1200Wh. That said, the minimum output voltage of the panel would need to be greater than 30V or you'll get no charge input, since the PV input voltage range is 30-100V.
Do you have a link for the breaker? I looked online and could not find that particular one. Thanks.
This is the one that I bought on Amazon (shown in the video): amzn.to/3XoZ0aj It's a beast!
@@ReeWrayOutdoors Okay, thanks for the info!
Perhaps I’m confused about the AC out grounding wiring. I assume the Pro Tran transfer switch is grounded to the residential service panel so a floating neutral generator can be plugged into the transfer switch creating only one source for grounding. If this is correct, then the AC out ground wire should not be connected to the inverter? On some inverters, this double grounding can cause voltage on the neutral and ground wire including tripping GFI circuits. Any thoughts/education on this issue?
Actually, I don't think you're confused at all. I think you're 💯 correct about that! Thanks for pointing that out!
Thanks for the quick reply; it is most appreciated. (I was waiting to hear back from Sun Gold Power on the same question.) Enjoy your channel and the video on the: “DIY: Let's Build an 800W Ground Solar Array for Emergency Backup Power.” If you have the time, I have a few more questions to complete my design build project like yours.
1. The manual recommends the AC out wire as 8 AWG. For a 3000W inverter, I would assume 10 AWG (30 amp) would be sufficient since my Pro Tran ten circuit switch is rated for 30 amps and the breakers in the switch would trip before it got close to the amps for 8 AWG solid copper residential wire. Thoughts?
2. Also, the AC in wire is recommended for 8 AWG. I would assume a 10 or 12 AWG wire standard three prong plug would be OK to plug into a non-switched/dedicated 20 amp grid outlet would be sufficient (to keep the battery bank “top-offed” under a UPS - laptop scenario as you demonstrated in your video)? I plan on keeping 3 critical circuits on the Pro Tran that power Fiber Input, Router, NVR security cameras, and Plex server running during intermittent power outages greater than my per line APC UPS (i.e., 30 minutes to an hour). Thoughts?
3. Is 2 AWG wire sufficient for all the connections in a 2s2p configuration using four 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 Batteries? Any thoughts on using an Ampper High Current 1-2-Both-Off Battery Switch to isolate the 24 V battery banks before the monster DC breaker? Just in case one of the batteries goes flaky.
4. Perhaps I missed it, but what gage was the PV wire used for the 800W Ground Solar Array?
I was going to click your link and buy this, but Amazon takes me to the 5K, 48 volt inverter instead.
Thanks for the heads-up. Looks like they're not selling that particular model on Amazon right now and they did a switch-a-roo on the listing. Here's the closest model they're selling on Amazon right now (upgraded charger, and solar input capacity, but 2400W instead of 3000W): amzn.to/3NyyusY The 3K/24V is still available on their website though, if you'd prefer that: bit.ly/3NBAqRl
How long does the discount code last? I plan to buy one of these in the next 30-60 days.
They didn't mention an expiration date, but usually it's around 30 days, but it does vary...
@ReeWrayOutdoors, I've been on TH-cam for a while, but I never learned how to message or contact someone on a channel. How can I reach you to ask some questions that would be long and drawn out on this platform?
Hi , how noisy is the inverter? It’s loud? The fan is running all the time?
DOH!!! I actually had a clip showing that and somehow failed to mention it and so it didn't get inserted. :-/ The fan does not typically kick on unless it's charging/discharging somewhere around 800W+. And the fans are variable speed and mostly in the 65dB range. But when you get over the 1000W draw, the fans will kick all the way on and it IS fairly loud at that point...about 85dB I think. So, definitely a consideration if you're in a small space and don't have an easy way to confine it to a space that can provide some sound isolation.
Great video.
I have been watching TH-cam videos. Everyone always say not to back feed into the grid. I see people literal have to turn off the panel breaker first. Will this Sungold back feed into the grid? I am still new and very confuse about this back feed process.
sorry this is late, but hope it helps other newbs. DO NOT BACKFEED GRID. 1st is the precautions if power fails you have to have a auto disconnect, 2nd power companies pay trash for generation. 3rd you have to BUY from the power company a meter that can work if you dont have one.
what if you used 4 12v batteries? would you need different components?
4 batteries can be wired 3 ways 12V, 24V and 48V, so no any 48V inverter can use 4 batteries.
No breaker on your solar power input ? its ok now see it higher up the wall
I wonder if there's a way to get this installed into an RV; SunGold makes an inverter/charger that I guess specifically is for RV applications, but it's more money than this...
Are they stackable? Can you run 2 together and get 240 volts?
Not an option with this unit. You'll typically need to spend a few more bucks for that option.
Any one know what the no load power consumption is of these hybrid units (both with only a grid connection and with only a battery connection)? It seems like that would be good to know before purchasing one of these. I can't seem to find this on any of the specs I've been looking at.
being it is on a 15A breaker would the max watt it can draw be around 1,800 ? or no ? thanks
Yeah, if you're running it on a 15A circuit now, you should be completely fine.
Excellent video
Thanks
Quick question I was looking at the spec sheet it says voltage range for solar 120-400vdc.
My panels are 37.40vdc 250watts 16x pannels should i put my panels in series to achieve the 120v or will 37.40v charge the batteries without them being in series?
Maybe you're looking at a slightly different model, but the one in this video is a 24V / 3000W AIO Hybrid. My manual says the Solar (PV) Operating Voltage Range is 30-100Vdc. Also, I'm not sure I understand your setup. You have 16 of those 37V 250W panels? And if the actual operating voltage range of the model you're looking at is 120-400V, you will need at LEAST 120V input for the charge controller to begin sending power to the batteries.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors without knowing the panel amps and the max amps input of the inverter there is no way to answer the question. but without knowing that, it should be a 2P8S setup. and he has a different (newer) model inverter.
Why do we need to buy an 160 amp breaker?
What system do you recomend for someone that is not that bright when it comes to electronics like me? Age and lock of knowledge is always an obstacle in the new world of sience.😢
Depends on what you want it to do, really. :) You can do alot with a Portable Power Station, but there are trade-offs for that convenience (generally higher cost and less expandability).
@@ReeWrayOutdoors im building a patio in my back jard and i d like to set it up with a few solar panels instead of running electricsl from the panel.
@@jorgeortiz3565 what are you wanting to power and for how long?
I’m trying to install the Wi-Fi on my inverter, it’s telling me when trying to finish setup that the datalogger already exists and won’t continue any idea ?
I seem to recall that I ran into that something similar when I was doing the 'redo' of the setup for the video. I think I ended up deleting the wifi module from the app (might've been some option to unbind or something like that? Can't recall for certain) and starting from scratch. The biggest confusion for me was just being patient enough to wait after the initial data-logger setup to let the system do whatever it needs to do (for about an hour maybe) and let the data-logger eventually show-up in the app. Definitely not very intuitive setup, which is why I tried to show it in the video. :P
I hooked up the panels to the inverted but its not seeing the panels. What could be the problem
couple of quick thoughts... Check the open circuit voltage on your incoming solar leads and make sure you're getting the minimum required 30V or higher for the SGP charge controller to begin charging. Definitely ensure your polarity is not reversed. Then also check to ensure that parameter 06 (Charger source priority) is not set to CUB - since it will only charge PV if grid is disconnect in that mode.
I'm having the same issue. I'm getting 80-90v off the pv panels and no matter what settings I use, it will not charge off the panels.
@supercomp65 So I had to run mu panels in series. I think that's the case. I had to call them and I think originally we had them in parallel
Can you put these batteries in series and parallel ?
I assume you're talking about the 100Ah PowerQueen batteries I showed? Yes - these can be combined up to 16 batteries in a 4S4P configuration.
@@ReeWrayOutdoors
Is there anyway you may can do a video on how this is done ? Thanks
@@gregsdroneservices I I have a video that shows series and parallel (separately) but doesn't show Series/parallel. I'm actually planning to do one on 2S2P configuration as soon as I can find the time - probably some time in the next few weeks. :) Here's the other video, if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/EDLxolJ0QxI/w-d-xo.html
can the battery be 2 x 12volts in series?
Yep! Absolutely.
Ac output can go right to a breaker box correct? I saw your inverter and got confused
Correct - you can wire it for 120V outlet (like I showed), or a 30A/120V outlet, or direct to a circuit in your breaker box.
Ok so using your 160 amp breaker setup, how would I then wire the batteries to a bus bar in order to power my dc circuits. Just another wire coming off the actual battery terminal?
Or can the wires coming from the 160 amp breaker go to the pos and neg bus bars
Which would leave only 1 wire going to the pos and neg terminals on the battery. I hope you can kinda picture my set up lol. Can’t figure out this part
@Bobby McGee I'd recommend putting the breaker between the battery and everything else. Then you can protect the smaller gauge wire on the other side of the breaker with appropriately sized fuses...either in-line or fuse block.