Excellent Mr. Whitham. Solved a big problem in your practical and professional quality style. Well done. I know young Marcus is ready to get his mill home and go to work. _Dan_
Assured that will move in two places, play in the black bit and aluminium flex seen how much give there is in that thin aluminium flat amplified over distance. Its just a little better than the supplied rack that comes with it bolted down.
@@KK-tk8sk 2 years to get back to me with an answer to a question, that does not instill confidence for me in your customers serves, I'll pass then on buying your product.
Looks like a great idea. Would like to see some indicator proof (not that I'm skeptic just simply because you should) Jet JMD-18 probably would be suitable model as well?
Mounting the block there makes access to the clamp bolds difficult. Silent for 2 years- guess it died a death for fairly clear reasons. The major problem with this design is that it is single ended. Most fixes from this problem attach the guide to both top and bottom of the column. Single ended is prone to flexing.
I was just thinking about something like this today as I was raising the head on my RF-40. Definitely want to know more, sir. I'll send you an email shortly. Best wishes! Tom Z
Hi Stefan, we've discussed the additional possibility of also dowelling the angle bracket to the head once bolted into the correct location for belt and braces alignment, but the aluminium collar is rock solid to the column, and the square block of poly has a wide bearing in all axes. Needless to say some deflection tests to follow, but its a smooth and solid interface on first tests.
I'd imagine that'd you would crank the head down while the bolts holding the vertical beam to the bracket are still a bit loose in the slots of the bracket - any misalignment would give a more pronounced angle when the two points are close together, then use a square to make sure the angle is square relative to the bracket, and that the beam is nicely located in the bearing slot. Even if the beam isn't truly square, I'm not sure it matters so long as the angle is a little more than 90 degrees: The bearing only prevents rotational movement, if the beam slides in and out a few millimetres (maybe .120" ?) it's unlikely to change anything, though if the angle is less than 90 degrees, it will probably bind against the bottom of the slot as the head moves up. I'd probably use a square, snug the bolts down (while the head is low), then raise the head. This would allow the beam angle to increase just a smidge (if it had to), and tighten the bolts at that point.
I have one of these mills so I am following this closely. My issue is that if the vertical member is not perfectly parallel to the axis of the column the head will rotate slightly as it is moved up and down.
In practise, the precision comes from the machining of the poly block and the collar clamp. The width of the bearing surfaces and the method of clamping means that the parts force the vertical beam to be true, then as far as the distance from the column, this can be checked very simply with a rule or telescoping gauge to ensure the bar is positioned vertical in the other axis. The slotted arrangement of the bracket means there is plenty of adjustment to take up the draft in the mill head casting. We will have a follow up video with some measurements on my mill once I’m set up there. The main issues this will not resolve is if the quill bore is not parallel to the round column. If this is the issue, then there are other problems with your mill that this system will not resolve. (I asked Bruce if the True-Line 88 would solve the apprentice marks on my bed, apparently it can’t fix those either! Haha)
Hi Bruce good job you sell this KIT
Excellent Mr. Whitham. Solved a big problem in your practical and professional quality style.
Well done. I know young Marcus is ready to get his mill home and go to work.
_Dan_
nice design Bruce. a lot of people have been looking for a solution for those mills.
Something truly needed on those round posts. Good idea.
It’s been awesome to work alongside you figuring out this final iteration! Quite a journey mate thanks for having me along for the ride :-)
for realz
maybe an option to supply it with a collar that allows indexing maybe useful
top idea mate - holds the head on centre for height changes .
Fill the column with high strength grout and a few pieces of rebar helps..
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Amazing how you figured out I was looking at an easy way to do that for my rong fu.
Looks like a good addition!
Bruce the easiest and safest way is to screw the gear rack to column.trust me it works great for me and it’s very rigid
Nathan only works if the rack and slot are very true fit. The ones I have checked including these two are really sloppy hence the idea.
Great idea Bruce, hope you have success with it. I had a round column drill press and that was a problem as well, probably work will with them.
Is this still available ?
Nice
Can you demonstrate the accuracy with a dial indicator please. More quantitative than "doesn't wobble"
Assured that will move in two places, play in the black bit and aluminium flex seen how much give there is in that thin aluminium flat amplified over distance. Its just a little better than the supplied rack that comes with it bolted down.
If you're happy with "repeatability" within 50 THOUSANDTHS, this is for you......
@@KK-tk8sk 2 years to get back to me with an answer to a question, that does not instill confidence for me in your customers serves, I'll pass then on buying your product.
@@BillyTpower It's a guy in his home shop, mate, on a video several years old. Did you email him?
have..well bought the en co version..had a thought what about adding limear rails to either side of head to facilitate alignment.just asking
Looks like a great idea. Would like to see some indicator proof (not that I'm skeptic just simply because you should) Jet JMD-18 probably would be suitable model as well?
Bobby any round column machine is a suitable model. Not familiar with the Jet JMD-18 can you tell me what the column diameter is?
It's 4.5 inches. content.jettools.com/assets/manuals/350020_man_EN.pdf
That will work then.
Yeah it's pretty much a RF 30 clone I believe
Bobby can you please contact me on my email: brucegetterout@gmail.com so I can follow up with you. Thanks
Mounting the block there makes access to the clamp bolds difficult.
Silent for 2 years- guess it died a death for fairly clear reasons.
The major problem with this design is that it is single ended. Most fixes from this problem attach the guide to both top and bottom of the column. Single ended is prone to flexing.
He’s still selling them today just posted today. So yea there ya go
Why would it be used on a square column machine? Do they have an alignment problem also?
I was just thinking about something like this today as I was raising the head on my RF-40. Definitely want to know more, sir. I'll send you an email shortly. Best wishes! Tom Z
Where do I order this kit from and how much?
You should sell a bunch of those because that is the biggest complaint with those small mills.
Great product!
I don't know Bruce, with only the one end held it doesn't seem very rigid? The other version, perhaps.
Stefan you would be surprised how rigid it is.
Hi Stefan, we've discussed the additional possibility of also dowelling the angle bracket to the head once bolted into the correct location for belt and braces alignment, but the aluminium collar is rock solid to the column, and the square block of poly has a wide bearing in all axes. Needless to say some deflection tests to follow, but its a smooth and solid interface on first tests.
Very well thought out
Excellent design
What's the costing on this system Bruce ?
Not finished costing yet mate will let you know.
Paul send an email to brucegetterout@gmail.com and I'll fill you in
Paul send me an email please brucegetterout@gmail.com
. Cheers Bruce.
What is your procedure for lining up the vertical member with the axis of the column?
I'd imagine that'd you would crank the head down while the bolts holding the vertical beam to the bracket are still a bit loose in the slots of the bracket - any misalignment would give a more pronounced angle when the two points are close together, then use a square to make sure the angle is square relative to the bracket, and that the beam is nicely located in the bearing slot.
Even if the beam isn't truly square, I'm not sure it matters so long as the angle is a little more than 90 degrees: The bearing only prevents rotational movement, if the beam slides in and out a few millimetres (maybe .120" ?) it's unlikely to change anything, though if the angle is less than 90 degrees, it will probably bind against the bottom of the slot as the head moves up. I'd probably use a square, snug the bolts down (while the head is low), then raise the head. This would allow the beam angle to increase just a smidge (if it had to), and tighten the bolts at that point.
I have one of these mills so I am following this closely. My issue is that if the vertical member is not perfectly parallel to the axis of the column the head will rotate slightly as it is moved up and down.
In practise, the precision comes from the machining of the poly block and the collar clamp. The width of the bearing surfaces and the method of clamping means that the parts force the vertical beam to be true, then as far as the distance from the column, this can be checked very simply with a rule or telescoping gauge to ensure the bar is positioned vertical in the other axis. The slotted arrangement of the bracket means there is plenty of adjustment to take up the draft in the mill head casting.
We will have a follow up video with some measurements on my mill once I’m set up there.
The main issues this will not resolve is if the quill bore is not parallel to the round column.
If this is the issue, then there are other problems with your mill that this system will not resolve.
(I asked Bruce if the True-Line 88 would solve the apprentice marks on my bed, apparently it can’t fix those either! Haha)
I sent 5 emails trying to get a price and ordering instructions and never received a reply so I said to hell with them and made my own.
Why would anyone with a mill buy milled parts?
Just use a motorcycle fork leg🙄
nice work bruce check us out at gg grinding and engineering the biggest precision grinding shop in sydney
lol