Round Column Mill ISSUE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I will finally resolve the major issue on all round column mills. That issue being when you want to raise and lower the head it will always want to sway side to side a certain amount. With the upgrade I have once and for all sorted this issue out.
So if you are an owner of a round column mill and want to resolve this issue then make sure you watch this video until the end
And if it helps your out then maybe help me out by SUBSCRIBING to my channel its completely free and I regularly upload videos similar to this topic.
/ machiningwithjoe
What do you think to this finished mod? Will any of you be doing this to your mills?
Hey Joe thanks for sharing mate i really enjoy your channel. Few points from me on this upgrade.
I think it will be more accurate if you measure on the ground surface of the quill rather than the keyway.
If you want to further improve the accuracy you can simply install a stepper motor instead of the handle which should eliminate almost all side movements of the head. But anyways as you said .06 is probably good enough for what you need to do and i have found that especially when milling i hardly need to move the head up and down and if you do its always easy to locate your part again if you need to be extra accurate.
Cheers from Swaziland
Hi Evo yeah I’ve been meaning to re measure the run out since doing this mod. Overall after using it for a few months it’s great if I need to raise the head mid work like when changing to larger drill bits it’s great stays pretty much where I left it. Well worth doing if anyone has one of these style mills.
Take the reading from the ground section, the inner keyway is rough milled compared to the ground outer surface finish which will give you a much more accurate reading.
Also that's a dial gauge, not a dial test indicator.
Very good point I’ll check it in the ground surface and let you know my findings if your interested 👍
@@MachiningwithJoe Tough crowd huh? TH-cam content providers have it hard you miss label one thing and you better believe someone will be there to correct you. Honestly that would be exhausting to deal with if it were me. Cool mod though if I get a round column mill I'll most likely copy this mod thank you.
@@MicscienceEver pondered the possibility you’re just easily shaken and have thin skin?
Nothing about that dudes comment was unruly.
@@SeamlessFab I did ponder just now, and I came up with a question as your answer which seems ironic why you would take the effort and energy to comment and accuse me of being shaken and thin skinned? Aren't you doing the same?
It's a compromise but it does do wonders for the deflection that normally occurs with this type of mill/drill.
As a mill is one of the mainstays of engineering in any shop I'd have sold it on and bought in to another mill that doesn't have this problem.
Back in 1980, before I emigrated to OZ, I went to an engineering firm in Birmingham and almost bought one of these "Taiwanese Terrors" as they were called then, due to the bad workmanship at the time, but I simply couldn't come to terms with the fact that the head swung around the column unrestrained when raising or lowering......sometimes you just have to do whatever it takes.....but I hate living with regrets.
Good job Joe. I have the same problem with my round column mill. I may try to do the same thing with mine. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah I have to admit since doing it I now can raise and lower the head without worrying about losing my position its great. Definitely worth considering .
Joe your channel has come one fantastically I've been following since your second video and your machining is fantastic I invested in the warco dro and fitted it following your video i cant believe how i did without it lol all the best mate looking forward to more projects god bless
Thank you so much, the channel has come along from when I started this time last year. I really appreciate subscribers like yourself it helps keep me motivated knowing my content is being enjoyed and useful to some. All the best have a good weekend.
@@MachiningwithJoe thanks for the reply joe the upgrades are first class and are a joy to watch plus it's not mono tone lol theirs a bit of banter and bounce to your channel have a great weekend too all the best
Thanks for sharing!
Looks good Joe, I was think about you guide for your mill. With the two bearing if you pushed one and pulled the other if would put a little tension on the guide rod .
Yeah I suppose you are right, hopefully where the rod is 30mm it will take up any bit of tension from the bearings. So far using it seems to work great.👍
How would you go if you used chromed hydraulic shaft for the bars and honed hydraulic cylinder for the bearings?
You could have the shafts greased and put rubber gaiters on to stop the dust getting in.
Great job. That is exactly what I need. Thanks
Yeah since doing it I’ve never looked back it has made moving the head up and down so much more repeatable
Great video Joe! Could you describe how you managed to machine the big clamps on your mill?
Most of the deviation you are getting is from the hand cranking (watch it match as you lift the head). Which is why it is less coming down- there is less torque. My similar conversion a few years back gives less deviation, mainly because I fitted a power lift (no external torque).
BTW 'ultimate' is a dangerous word to use- it means it cannot be improved upon. Are you sure about that?
Hi joe, great vid, could you give us a beginners tutorial on Endmills, Im doing the unthinkable and modding my old drill press to do light milling and I'm interested in which endmills are best. 2 flute, 4 flute, roughers, straight, etc. Thanks
I've fought this for years with my Enco RF30 and have watched every video I can find on fixing it.
Your solution is one of the cleanist designs I've seen, but I'm looking for much less error.
Did you ever run the test against the quill next to the milled (but not in) slot? Results?
Do you think putting the guide rod twice as far from the collum center, and beefing up the brackets would yield better results?
I suspect there is a heftier knee mill in my future to get satisfaction.
I think that a powered Z axis in addition to the guides would be the trick
It seems all one needs is a simple indicator with brackets that reads the head alignment to the column.
A great couple of videos Joe. I’m inclined to have a crack at sorting mine out seeing this. Any chance of a link to the clamps you got from eBay? Cheers, Alex
I’ll have a look back at my eBay history although it was a while ago I stumbled across it while scrolling through eBay and it was a random part being sold.
I was curious as to why you did this modification. Is the rack loose causing the issue, or is there a lot of wear in the column or the spindle head? Or, is this a common issue with the mill? Great video content nonetheless.
He most likely did this mod because when ever you rise or lower the head, You have to loosen the bolts that keep the head in place. When loose the head moves side to side and the X, 0 and Y, 0 of the those axes are lost. The shaft he added will help keep the head in place.
@@GlennNowOnTH-cam, so basically it was more or less for stability
Hi time to tinker. So a big weak point with these types of mill are when you want to raise and lower the head, due to its design the head will swing side to side. With this mod it keeps it rigid when moving it up and down so you can keep your position on your work piece. Hope that helps to clarify a little.
150 SHS 6mm wall with ball rails is the best fix.
Is there any video of it fly cutting steel wish you can show us .
In my latest series on making a quick change tool post I use the mill with a largeish face cutter haven’t used the mill with an actual fly cutter yet.
I have a round column mill and it’s not user freindly
That's awesome I got the same mill, I'm going to give this a go!
Yeah it’s a well worth upgrade keeps the head from rotating