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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2024
- Easy fix for your broken R50/R52/R53 air conditioner! Most common failure is a bad clutch coil. No need to evacuate/recharge system. Mechanic's eye view of the repair. Save money and replace it yourself. Generation 1 MINI Cooper / Cooper S. This is the most common reason for an AC failure on a Gen 1 MINI!
No need to evacuate or recharge the cooling system, but we do so on this car because it had a low charge. Do this if your air conditioner is not working. No need to evacuate coolant or replace compressor, condenser or dryer. When adding charge, be sure to purge atmosphere out of the line first to ensure it is full of refrigerant only (squirt some refrigerant through the line first)
Have fun fixing your car!
Buy the clutch coil here :
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or here:
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Buy the retaining clip tool here:
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(Or a medium snap ring plier if you have the dough):
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Buy the belt removal tool here:
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or
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AC gauge kit:
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R-134a recharging can tap:
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Ratchet tie down (really cheap!):
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"DIY videos provided for reference/entertainment purposes only. Only work on your car if you have the right tools and are comfortable doing so. If in doubt, consult a professional. Mod MINI is not responsible for any 'mistakes' or 'incidents' arising out of your working on your own vehicle. Have fun and stay safe!" Follow #ModMINI on Twitter to get notified of new video uploads! / modminiyoutube Thanks for watching!
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Appreciate the assist with this video. Had a minor issue after installing the new coil/clutch pack. I tested it before putting the car back together. The coil would not engage. Found the 2 small washers which I did not install between the pressure plate and splined shaft. (This provides the gap for the springback - SO IMPORTANT!). Pulled the pressure plate back off this morning, added the washers and reinstalled and tested with success! Don't forget the 2 small washers gang. Thanks for the help Mod MINI. You're a lifesaver.
And if the clutch hub ever wears to the point that the gap increases (with the variable displacement CVC it won't do this as fast as with cycling clutch compressors, though) just remove one of the washers and you're done.
🎉🎉 😢😢🎉😢🎉
Thank you so much for your video, managed to fix my mini's AC for cheap and oh the feeling when you succeed! For the hidden nut, I had best luck using a joint socket to get the right angle, in case it helps someone else.
Update: Thank you again as my investigation using your video helped.
I have now fitted new AC compressor and drier with 2 new hose seals with AC recharge.
Your video was great so I could the problem as it was leaking dye on the shaft after removing the clutch, pulley and coil.
All repaired by me and the new AC compressor was original part off eBay with new AC drier, AC hose seals x 2 etc.. cost £350.00 UK pounds with recharge of AC. saved me over 800.00 labour charges with taxes. One happy guy :) now the UK weather is wet and cold now I 've fixed me AC....you got to laugh!
This video is AWESOME... I just purchased my Mini and got it for a great price because of the AC issue. This is probably going to save me a lot of money. I'll report back once I'm done!
Did you get it fixed?
I recently bought my first Mini, an 05 cooper S hatchback. I have learned a TON about my new to me car watching this channel. Very grateful for the videos and excited to start modifying my own Mini. I live in the Pacific NW area too and have very similar interests it seems. Love the Ridge, ORP and Thunder Hill! :) Thank you for the awesome videos! I know they take a lot of effort to make.
I'm a home mechanic your videos are excellent, allows me to see what problems you may encounter beforehand. thanks.
scotsiain1970 Thank you for watching and thank you for your support! Much appreciated!
Also happens on Vauxhalls. The clutch coils on these compressors come with a thermal fuse. Thermal cycling could probably make the fuse trip earlier than it should once it becomes old. In addition, running the compressor with low refrigerant charge makes it work louder and hotter, so it would be best if it was turned on for some minutes every week (to reduce leaks due to seals drying up) and ac service done every 3 or 4 years.
Just did this and it went perfectly. Thank you so much. I always rely on your videos to fix my R53!
Thanks for the video. Got my cars ac fixed in only a few hours. Didn't have an impact so I used a rachet and chanel locks to get the bolt off. Worked pretty good
6 years old now and very helpful today, thank you mate
All the vehicles on this channel are so clean and rust free. Makes mine seem pointless to fix
Washington state, baby. Rain don't stain
Honestly though where do some people find these r53’s this clean! Let me make a point my 2010 mini r56 doesn’t need an ac compressor clutch replacement I clicked on this video so I could look at the car in the thumbnail
You are a hero, in case no one has told you lately.
I am a proud R53 owner, and love your vids, thank you so much for sharing. Cheers!
Whenever I have an issue with my mini I always check to see if you have a video on how to repair it before anything else. So far every issue I've had you've had a video for. Thanks you so much for that. You have saved me thousands $$$$. I'm in the process of replacing the AC coil on my 05 JCW and the bolt holding the pressure plate is fully rounded out I've searched to find out what the bolt size is but have had no luck. You wouldn't by chance know the bolt size? Hoping I can find something at my local hardware store to replace it.
I'm just about to do this exact repair and appreciate the descriptive video!
I'll be sure to like and check out your other videos.
Sweet thanks! I guess I'll dig in my 2004 Mini. I did the electrical check and found 87 circuit open which is the coil. Your method does saves me time since my hands are also small!
What tool did you use to do electrical check?
Great post!...just be careful with the clutch screw. I used an impact wrench as shown and the head broke off immediately. I would suggest trying to remove it manually first and use the impact wrench as a last resort...who knows, it might have broken either way. In the end I even broke my "easy out" trying to remove the screw and will have to resort to buying a new compressor anyway. At least you show how to gain access to it without putting it in service mode! Thx for the post!
If the impact broke it off it would have probably broken if removed by hand as well. Hope things went ok.
i was able to remove the t30 in the middle of the ac compressor clutch without an impact tool. i used a chain vice to hold the outer clutch and was able to get the t30 out with a ratchet. it takes some patience but its possible without an impact tool.
I have an 06 Cooper Base and I think the A/C clutch is bad. This video will help me to fix myself.
this video saved me almost $1000. thanks a bunch!
a long solid screw driver between the the tensioner and alt bracket, was easy to release the belt from underneath.
Amazing video. I will change my Mini clutch tomorrow.
Btw I love your videos I am not a mechanic but I like to do my own repairs too. Greeting from SF California.
Thank u for all your videos. Extremely helpful.
Great videos, very informative, especially for the R50. Would love to see more on the R50 when you work on that model and have time to video any repairs or maintenance you do.
Thanks for watching!
Great vid. My daughter has air again!!! Very informative, actually quite an easy fix. Except for that top bolt. Damn. Thank you for posting.
Love your videos man. My 05 S model keeps kicking the belt and come to find out the pulley is wobbly and making a weird noise. Bought this kit that came with pulley, clutch and coil. Hoping it’ll solve my issue cause I really don’t want to spend the money on a whole compressor when mine works fine
Thank you so much for the response. I feel better about buying one now. The channel is awesome.
Great video. A couple things that helped me. Remove the idle pulley for a little more room to get at the compressor bolt closest to the passenger side. The ebay coil comes with a ground wire, I assembled it all and it didn't work due to this not having a good ground. To fix I put 2 star washers between the ground wire and put it next to the coil wire bracket (the one with the small T15? bolt). Don't use an impact wrench to put on the T25 bolt, it'll knock the head right off, haha. Might as well replace the main seal while everything is accessible and the belt too. Thanks, Mod Mini.
SmokinM1 The part I bought was a direct fit, it seems newer ones coming with ground wire. If it comes with a ground wire, absolutely use it. Yeah, air impact is way too powerful. An 12v or 18v battery impact gun is just about perfect.
Thanks for posting this video! My 2003 R53’s a/c stopped working one day. It was ice cold when I parked to go shopping. Came out from store and no more a/c. Fuse, circuit and pressures look good. Will try the coil next! Thanks again!
It's most likely the coil when it suddenly goes out. It will happen again and again (happened once every 7 years in my case), because the thermal fuse on the coil is subjected to heat cycling and may trip earlier than supposed to due to wear. I don't suggest bypassing the thermal fuse, because it's still supposed to disconnect the clutch in case the hub starts slipping against the pulley due to a seizing compressor. May also be a faulty AC clutch connector if you find that yanking the wiring makes the clutch engage.
remove the upper engine mount nut. 18mm wrench jack the engine up an inch or so and the save your self a lot of work. comes off easy. You' won't need to unmount the compressor from the engine which is not cool. 1/2 hour here experienced mechanic. hint a 2 jaw puller needed the drive pulley and bearing don't just slip off. But pull easy.
Excellent video!!! you saved me money and time with the removal techniques..
Wow, if you can't make the repairs after watching his videos, you'd better quit! Very informative and step by step. Thanks for uploading your videos.
+David Never give up, never surrender.
I bought a new cooling fan resistor because the one on my car was very corroded and the low speed would not kick on at 180 degrees only the high speed would work after a hard drive when I shut car off
Yes, that will happen if the old resistor is not working. I don't think that would affect the operation of the AC. If the low speed mode is not working, it would just go into high speed mode when AC is turned on.
I did this on my R53 back in 2012. These compressors are absolute Tiger Tanks....coils are crap obviously. Kit purchased off ebay and saved me a ton of $$ not buying new compressor.
Hey there Mister!, first of all thank you for your extra effort and for sharing to the many. I tackled this project and it went all fine replacing the old coil to a new. Sadly the clutch still don't engage. Is there anything I should look more into. I used the Freon with guage, filled. Currently my radiator fan isn't working I guess. The car make a fan noise after I use it a while and even the engine off.
I asked Google where this compressor was and now things to your video I at least have a clue where to look to see if it's engaging or not
There a howling that develops with r53 ac compressor, mine makes this howling noise does coil replacement fix this? thanks great videos by the way.
My 2005 R53 is making a howling noise when the A/C is on. It gets louder as the RPMs increase. The AC blows ice cold. Any idea what it could be ?
Looking to buy a used mini $2K 140k miles ac not working. This is helpful. I can live without ac
Thank you for your efforts very much. Please tell me, do you recommend to drive with the broken AC compressor clutch? I saw your video about timing chain tensioner and you were mentioning not to drive with this problem on the road.. I understand that this to parts are not similar but, what if you drive with broken AC compressor clutch whilst its in motion but with the AC off? Shall not it get stuck ? There are two Minis in Japan, one of the year 2002, has ABS lights coming on and AC is not working and the second one 2004 edition has engine rattle as the dealer wrote me. So which one should I opt for?
excellent videos and explanations. thank you from here in the uk. justin
Owning a mini is like owning a street go cart, you’re always working on them, but they’re fun as hell
Hello friend, when I turn on my compressor blocks its pulley, seized. Breaking the belt the movements of the crankshaft pulley. My coil works when I turn on the compressor, what is my problem? Compressor locked its pistons?? Thanks, sorry for my grammar.
So I went through the whole procedure, only to find that the pulley/clutch is not spinning freely by hand now. It will turn by hand, but it takes more effort than it seems it should, and certainly won't continue spinning after I stop turning it. I added the additional two shims that the kit came with and it seems a bit easier, but still far from spinning freely. I'm thinking I may need more shims? I certainly don't want to put the car back together this way, so any helpful thoughts would be most appreciated! Thanks for all the outstanding videos - they've been extremely helpful to this 04' MCS owner!
Some of the kits come with new pulleys and clutches and get tight when installed due to poor tolerances. Just install the new coil and reuse the clutch and pulley, don't bother installing all that other stuff.
Thanks for the info, it worked perfectly and now the AC is blowing cold once again. Thanks again for all the outstanding videos - you make all would be Mini garage mechanics lives much easier AND save us stacks of hard earned cash!
Should I replace the coil if my ac turns on but doesn’t blow cold air and also tried to add Freon but it wouldn’t take it
side note be careful on that bottom bolt for the compressor ...i snapped mine 0_0
Great job on the video! I am also wondering if this job would be too difficult without removing the wheel?
+ukiews It would be a lot easier to remove the wheel than attempt to work around it. Honestly, removing the wheel is the easiest part of the entire job.
Excellent video, had to stop once I got to the larger retainer ring (spring clip) as it rusted away, does anyone know the size of the larger one so I can order one, car is currently up on blocks, many thanks for the excellent video
No body or fender panels or anything removed except the inner fabric wheel well liner.
I’ve asked you this question before! Are there two different clutch coil electrical adapters? I bought one off of eBay that has a single pin and I thought the last one I replaced was a dual pin adapter? I have a 2004 Mini Cooper s. Thanks for the help.
Excellent video! Swapped out the clutch and on first go, clutch engaged and ac was nice and cold. Later in the week air was hot so checked on clutch, occasionally engages and rotates slow. Could I have over/under torqued?
Not sure. Check wiring or clutch has weak engagement, or there is something wrong with the system causing too much load on the compressor.
Very smart to go through the wheel-well rather than front end. Could I replace the entire compressor this way or would I not have enough space to access the refrigerant lines in back?
Would be possible to replace entire compressor if there is still pressure in the system
I've removed both fuse and relay for the AC compressor. Clutch still engaged and blowing cold. Replace just the clutch and coil assembly or the entire compressor?
Ok awesome thank you MODMINI you answered my question!!! Thank you again sir
My air-con has stopped working on my 2002 Cooper. It was working fine until last night's heavy rain and a drive in it- no submerge but a few large puddles.There appears to be no 'kick in' sound although the display light is on. Any ideas please? It's only just come from the garage.
My compressor is very noisy when the compressor no is in on it. Will this fix the problem or will I need to replace the clutch itself. Thanks.
Hi.
Thank you for the video. I have a 2011 MCS, when I turn on the AC I can hear a metal grinding noise coming from the passenger footwell. I’m pretty sure it has to do with the compressor (either the pulley bearing or clutch). I’ll diagnose it soon. However do you have any tip of what it could be?
However, do you have a link to where I can buy replacement parts for 2011 model year?
Thanks!
I am having an issue getting the pulley off. I removed the first big circlip, but the pulley wont budge. I noticed in the video you skip this part, you remove the circlip and then clip cuts and comes crack and the pulley is off.
I got it off
Ok thank you ever since I noticed the ac compressor was not engaging even with the ac button turned of the fan no longer does it 3secound run time with a 60 second interval is this normal mod mini ?
I am not sure if I understand the question, but if the AC system is not working, even if the AC button is pushed, it will not trigger the fan operation (because the AC compressor is off!)
A normally functioning MINI will run the main fan in low speed mode whenever AC is on (and AC is actually working). If the coolant temperature exceeds a certain threshold, it will kick the fan up to high speed mode until the coolant temperature drops below a temperature threshold).
If the AC is turned off or not working, it will only turn on the main fan in low speed mode once a temperature threshold is reached. It will go to high speed mode if another temperature threshold is reached.
@@ModMINI Thanks for posting this update. Exactly what I was wondering. I've checked all my aircon system on my R50 and it all looks good apart from the compressor not starting up. But I also noticed the radiator fan not kicking in when the A/C button is pressed. Glad you confirmed that the radiator fan won't start until the compressor kicks in ...
hello MODMINI can you please tell me which fuses and relays to check before buying this clutch coil also my high speed fan works but my low speed does not is this do to the resistor built into my factory fane
Coolant fan resistor has nothing to do with this. I'm not sure which relay, but check any fuses with the AC icon next to the left door footwell.
Sweet!!helpful as always!
I just did this, tighten and torqued everything down. Question, does the clutch need to break in for a bit? When I have the AC off, I can slightly see the AC clutch rotate. When I turn on the AC, the clutch engages and the AC blows cold.
No breakin.
when air conditioning button is pushed on nothing happens, light does not come on.
I have a 2003 mini cooper s and my ac stopped working, i test the circuit for and open but it seems to have a closed circuit. after i jacked up the car to get underneath it, it seems to me the the clutch is bad. the outer plate shifts all around. also i turned the car on and turned the ac on and it seems like the clutch engaged but was barely spinning the compressed by looking at the center bolt. would you say the clutch coil is bad?
The clutch is basically a metal disk and there is really nothing on it that can fail. What fails is the coil which actuates the clutch. Do you hear a click and does the outermost disk start rotating when the AC is engaged? If so, then the clutch coil and disk are working and your problem lies elsewhere.
+Mod MINI The compressor clutch coil I had previously linked is the incorrect size, even though it had "R50, R52, R53" in the title. It appears they have since changed the title as well.
Unfortunately I didn't have one in hand to measure against before I ordered.
It appears the size is somewhat common. 92mm*60mm*26.5mm*45mm. Unfortunately I have not yet found an exact match, aside from possibly eBay. Aliexpress does have a different part available claiming to be correct for Mini Cooper, but the dimensions do not match what I measured from my coil, so either the listing is incorrect, or the part is wrong. There are coils that have identical dimensions available, but they do have different style connectors, and if you're not afraid of a little soldering or splicing, this might be an option.
brilliant tool. When's part 9 to the blown mini series being uploaded? Thanks!
Thanks. I have been extremely busy dealing with some job issues and have not had time to edit Part 9. All I can say is "stay tuned." Sorry for the delay.
***** Part 9 has been uploaded: th-cam.com/video/rBVqoeRXngM/w-d-xo.html
your videos are very descriptive, I'm thinking about getting a mini cooper S as well but since I'm not really a mechanic type of person you think his car is good for me, I'm planning to go with automatic since L.A. traffic is not the best to drive manual
Hi. Well, you don't need to fix the car yourself. It is a super fun car but not as reliable as a Honda or a Toyota for example. Budget a little for unexpected repairs or get a used car warranty maybe?
***** do you mean its reliable if i dont do much to the car beside driving and regular service?
Kalvin Lo MINIs are about as reliable as any other German engineered car.
@Tenfour Dispatch , what is consider long? 15 years?
Hey man. Love watching your videos. Just bout an 2003 Mini Cooper Base model. Has 140K on it. All tuneup procedures have been done thanks to you.
My A/C was working just fine going down the highway then just stop out of nowhere. The clutch isn't engaging. I tested the relay and its good then I tested the relay plug on the load and it doesn't show continuity. So I'm guessing it went bad. Any other ideas i could check before I try this?
Thank you!
Well, usually it's the clutch but I guess it could be relay. I believe there are other equal type of relay in the car. You can try swapping for one of those and see if it comes back. If not, time to replace the clutch.
Mod MINI yeah tried that. Ok thank you so much!!
I have a 2005 mini cooper and the ac works but isn’t blowing cold...i have tried adding refrigerant but the gauge reads 0 and doesn’t seem to add any when i attempt to..
You are either doing it wrong or something is wrong with the system. Might need to take to somewhere that can do AC repair.
After replacing part it worked for about a week now fuse f7 keeps popping any ideas of what it could be? Thank you!
Mr. Mod, is one of the symptoms of a bad clutch coil on the AC compressor a chirping noise when the AC is on and increasing at high revs or a demand on the compressor? I fixed a bunch of stuff in front end service and put a new serpentine belt on. Now, I think the new belt has led to the clutch needing to be changed due to age. This is '05 Cooper S with the original compressor.
Thank you for your great videos! I just replaced the tensioner damper assembly and noticed the compressor clutch wheel looks slightly off, and then of course I started seeing fraying on my new belt. And my AC hasn't been working. How do I know if I can replace just the clutch or if I need the entire compressor?
Only way is to give it a try
Couldn't you have left the compressor in place like the r56 guide ?
Subframe is in the way I think
Good video, thanks for your help!!!!!!!!
wow i just found this channel do you have a shop?
awesome video just got done with my clutch and a/c working again. now i got a new problem i don't think my clutch is disengaging my vents are blowing cool when off, fan keeps kicking on, gas mileage sucks, and worst of all my power. oh by i got the clutch off of ebay this one's got a extra ground wire with it that i attach to one of the screws that's touching ground. you think that could be it? i've already tired taking out the relay and fuse and still the same. wanted to get your input before i go back down there.
Must be a stuck relay causing the power to not disengage, or your clutch is rusted or bound up somehow and seized in the engaged position?
A.c worked perfect last year, junk this year. I bought an a.c clutch & coil for 50 bucks, a 4pack set of snap ring pliers $20 bucks & BOOM💥!!!! ICE COLD A.C!!!!❄️❄️❄️❄️☃️ I'm 6' tall with a 13 work boot so needless 2say that top bolt was an absolute BITCH!!! Still better than front end service mode ......Thank you for all your Excellent videos & tips🫡
i had an alternator explode on me and the mechanic that fixed it said it damaged some of my ac wiring. Would the wiring hes referring to probably be the coil wiring?
It's the only nearby wire.
Hello, I have just replaced one engine coil on my mini cooper R56 (2nd generation)
The engine and shaking is now fine. I have heard if one goes the other coils will go too. Is that true? Some sources stay they last for a lifetime? What is true? Thanks
The coils operate independently from each other. Any failures should be fairly random. I wouldn't bother replacing the other ones before they fail.
So I have replaced this coil once before. The clutch coil I utilized was taken from an old compressor and it seems that it went bad again. Can you clarify for me, I think there are two different power plugs for the clutch coil? One with a single prong and one with a tri-prong? I think mine was the not so common tri-prong, I am going to check tomorrow! Thanks for the help.
Chris Brockett The MINI supplies a single 12v source to engage the coil. Some clutch coils will provide an additional wire for ground. I wouldn't know what a third wire does.
Okay, I will tinker with it tomorrow and send some pics if I get stuck. Thanks for the help.
Good morning brother. My name is LUIS ALBERTO and I just recently bought a 2003 Mini Cooper s and I see that my injectors are leaking gas. I cleaned them but didn’t put new seals,is that something I should of done
If the o-ring are leaking, replace the o-rings. If it's an internal leak, replace the injector.
If charging with a can from the store (I'm familiar with procedure BUT can only find one charging shraedder valve. The location of the LOW side charging port is.....???
06 Mini Cooper S
Thanks in advance
It's right next to the other valve.
threadlocker red question... follow that advice and so far so good but reading else where someone stated never use red unless you never want it off again. Why not blue so that if it happens again OR you get a bad part that it's serviceable again?
There are few places where I would use red...
Well, got it all off to the 2nd clutch plate. It's not coming off! I thought it might just slide off after the clip was removed, but no. Any ideas?
Make sure you removed the correct clip. It's the larger one on the outside. It should slide off but you might need to lightly tap with a hammer to break any corrosion or very gently pry to coax it off.
Thanks for the advice. It did come off as you said. My car is one of the first in this country, 2002 S delivered in mid July that year, so I carefully squirted some penetrating oil to help release the bearing and it finally came free.
A couple other things of note: the front compressor bolt closest to the pulley finally came free, but with the cast mount from the compressor body along for the ride. It appears it sheared off awhile back (possibly 4 yrs ago when the AC stopped working). So just the 2 bolts are holding things together. It also took me some time to find the 2nd hole for the pin to go in on the tensioner pulley spring. Other than that it works again! Thanks for a great video.
Re: the AC charge, I'm getting a high reading (250+) on the high-pressure side ( I bought the gauge set as you reco'd). A mech in my local parts shop said it may be a clogged screen in the line or an accumulator? He said sometimes moisture can get in and cause this. What would be your advice? I am getting some cool air, but not what it should be by any standard.
Can I not just raise or lower the engine and leave my belt on and remove the front plate and replace the coil ? I have a sprintex kit so taking on n off my belt is a pita and either ruins the belt or tensioner 100% of the time
No. The solenoid is behind the pulley and you won't be able get access to any of the stuff anyway unless you remove subframe.
I wish I had noticed that the nut on the top of the tie rod end had reverse threads. Discovered after I cut it off. Rust covered the exposed bolt in the beginning so I didn't notice. Thats my excuse.
Is that some kind of replacement part? I can't really think of any stock reverse thread bolts.
My r53 only blows cold air from the passenger side vents....and it's not very cold.....what could be causing this?
Might be low on AC charge.
Would this work if the ac compressor pulley is not spinning when I turn on the AC?
If the reason for non-turning pulley is bad solenoid, yes. If the reason is low AC line pressure or other fault with system, then no. But it is a good try before paying an AC specialist.
My 2006 mini Ac is not working,I'd replace the radiator fan,got a new compressor and power steering fan,,clean the hoses n not get,,need help
Time to check with a licensed AC shop.
I wonder if you bridge the wires firs before changing any parts ??
No
I have a 2005 R53 with 142k miles and the AC clutch engages ok at low rpm (idle) but sounds like it may be slipping when engaging at slightly higher rpm (~2k). It gives a little "groan" at around 2k rpm and cycles erratically. Do you think the entire clutch assembly needs replacing or could this still be the AC coil? Seems there's not a lot choices out there for replacing clutch/coil as a kit. Any recommendations?
Thanks always find your videos extremely helpful!
Tim Dicke, that is exactly what my 2003 r53 is doing. did you figure out the problem?
Hi there, great video! You mentioned being able to nab a coil for around $90? Where did you find yours? I'm having trouble finding them online?
eBay, of all places....
What do you think about just leaving the compressor in place? Would it be easier just removing it? Or is it doable to just leave it in place?
The compressor is lowered for a reason. You have to either lower the compressor or remove the subframe. You get to decide.
I think my 07 R56 ac gas leakage as is cold on the passenger side but no as cold on the driver side. May I know usually where is the leakage occurs and how to fix it?
That's possible. A leak can happen from anywhere there is a connection or from the pump itself. You need specialized AC knowledge and tools (and license) to properly diagnose and repair an AC system. In the repair above we don't go anywhere near the pressurized system so such consideration is not needed.
Thank you for the videos. I hear clakkety sounds when the a/c is off. The sound goes away when the a/c is on. Do you think this is a similar symptom to a bad clutch coil or is it the clutch itself? Thanks again and take care.
probably the clutch is dragging when disengaged.
I tried to fill up gas twice in the last 4 weeks it works fine to a while and all of sudden the warmer weather start to came out from the vent ... any idea what will the problem ? Mini Cooper S 2013 convertible.
Have it checked by an AC tech.
Question from Oz: My 2004 R50/53 AC has a low hum that increases to a bearable hum under acceleration. AC seems to work ok. Any idea what that might be [it’s got a bearing sort of noise about it]. Thanks. AND Q2: Throttle body issues OR .......? On start up my car often hunts then stops but is fine on second attempt. At times at traffic lights it idles fine then hunts at idle but never stops just smooths out again? I’m in a warm climate like Southern California. The car has done about 100 000 miles. Your videos and help are Oh So appreciated. Mal
Not sure about AC. The other one, you could have a vacuum leak.
Reckon AC is probably a pulley bearing. Vacuum leak? Where are vacuum lines that impact air fuel mix? Throttle body? Cheers
@@malcolmpotts9096 Do you hear the humming noise only while AC is on? If not, it's likely a bad pulley bearing or alternator bearing somewhere. If yes, it's a noise that develops with any variable displacement compressor (such as the Delphi CVC equipped on your Mini) when two things happen at the same time: the compressor is running in low displacement and the evaporator is outputting superheated refrigerant to the suction line. It definitely sounds like a worn bearing noise, but in reality it's the suction reed valves inside the compressor, and the noise actually crawls inside the evaporator through the suction line (it's a pressure pulsation that propagates through the refrigerant molecules, unless the compressor returning to the refrigerant is wet, that is, not fully evaporated), and that explains why you can hear it inside. I had the same issue in my car with the same Delphi CVC compressor, along with weak cooling even when the refrigerant charge weight was fine, and the fix turned out to be a new compressor control valve (the old one lost calibration after about 15 years of operation and wasn't pulling suction pressure down enough, and this starved the evaporator, basically). Be aware that a low refrigerant charge can make the same noise develop even though the control valve is still ok, because the end result will be the same: not enough refrigerant will flow through the evaporator and the suction line will be always full of gaseous refrigerant...
TeraVolt that’s very helpful. I will get the gas serviced. If the noise persists I’ll look into changing the valve. Where do I find the valve?
@@malcolmpotts9096 The compressor control valve is below the compressor's head (compressor's back, basically). It basically sticks out of the compressor and shows as a colored dot surrounded by a metal base and a circlip. If your dot is colored blue, i'm letting you know that i successfully installed and tested the UAC EX 10458C blue dot valve in my Delphi CVC125 compressor (the same compressor equipped by your car). I'd recommend you replace the valve anyway, since it eventually loses calibration and it's a really cheap part as you will find. You have to remove a circlip and pull the old valve out, but before removing the circlip that surrounds the valve, all the AC refrigerant must have been recovered from the AC system, or the valve will basically shoot out like a bullet leaving a nasty cloud of refrigerant and PAG oil behind. Also, lube the new valve o-rings with either double end capped PAG oil or 525 SUS mineral oil before fitting it inside the compressor, and replace the circlip.
I have a 2003 R53 with hot air blowing from the A/C vents. I can see the clutch engaging, but both the high and low ports both show about 90 psi. I assume this is a bad compressor- any thoughts on this?
+Douglas Kerr Sounds like a correct diagnosis.
Having a hard time finding the coil with a single lead. Any idea where to find one with just the single power plug with a 60mm inside bearing OD?
Just get the one with two leads and attach the eyelet to ground.
Hey Mod Mini, I came into a snag with my clutch coil replacement on my 03 mini S. was wondering if you knew the part numbers for the retaining snap rings. Unfortunately this car and myself live in Maine. The snap rings were not happy exercising upon removal :(
I don't know. I'm pretty sure that part won't be separately available other than from a smart junk yard with lots of shelf space. You may need to use general purpose snap rings that are the correct size.