I'm still a complete noob when it comes to machine embroidery and I've tried watching multiple channels for Inkstitch tutorials. I ALWAYS come back to yours. You tell me every step of the process, which is amazing. Other channels assume that I'm coming to their video and I'm on page 378, but I'm actually way back here on page 2 haha. So, thank you for not making me feel stupid because I don't know what I don't know. Just out of curiosity, do you have a "quick guide/cheat sheet" that shows the changes you make to your projects? Like you said, it would be great if they had defaults that we could "set it and forget it", but until then, an at-a-glance shortcut guide would be amazingly helpful. Thanks for all that you do and keep on keeping on!
Great info. I need to auto route my new project. I just started using the preset. You can make your own setting there, then choose that for any part of design.
Thank you so much. Been trying to find tutorials on the settings. My designs kept having gaps and just looking so bad that my hand embroidery looked 100 times more professional. (Granted my hand embroidery has improved greatly over the past three years. Just takes me a long time to do it and I can't do perfect shapes.)
Thank you so much for sharing. I am still getting a missing line. I tried changing the start and end positions. I tried changing the angles and spaces between stitches and nothing is working. Please help.
Hey, Low Tech Linux Guy! Love your videos! I was wondering what kind of embroidery machine you use? I'm stitching on a low to middle class hobby machine (bernette deco 70) but I'm on the brink (?, sorry for my bad english) of buying a big one. I'm hoping that semi-industrial machines are less of a diva and more fun - at least because of using up to 15 colors in one go and the possibility of bigger projects due to bigger hoops and more usage due to free-arm-hoops. Would love some input/experiences.
Thank you. We have a ricoma em1010 which is considered an entry level 10 needle machine machine, something of an in-between hobbyist home machine and production commercial level. It works great for most projects but isn't great for hats. We also have a ricoma mt1501, 15 needle single head that is considered a true commercial grade model. So far it's doing great with hats. One the multi needle side we only have ricomas and can't really do a comparison but we are happy with them.
@@LowTechLinux Thank you!! I'm eyeing for the ricoma RCM-1501TC-8S 🙂 Hoping it is not to hard/complicated to maintanance. I'm not going for hats, though but I need a hoop with at least 450mm width for my projects. If I may aks: did you start with those or did start with a consumer/household one, too? And is the ricoma much louder than the small ones?
We've had several single needle brother models that we started with and still have two of one model of those (I don't remember the model numbers). Our 1501 came with 2 massive 530mm x 360mm. We haven't actually used that one yet, it's just so much bigger than what we are doing on a regular basis. Well, they are a little louder for sure, but mostly because they run so much faster. the 1010 can do 800 stitches/minute and the 15 can go up to 1200 stitches/minute but they recommend to stay around 1000. It's really fast. I don't think the maintenance is much harder than a single needle flat bed, The mechanics are still basically the same just on a larger scale. None of them have a self threading needle function, that part I miss.
The simple answer is you just need to make it more dense. Go into params and slightly lower the spacing between rows. For example, on fill the default is .25, change it to .2 and try that. Experiment with these settings and you should find a setting you like more.
Well, I did something about that but I think it's hidden in one of my tips and tricks videos. So I'll make one in the next couple days specifically for that.
Thank you again for the great videos. I keep learning, Oh BTW, Hatch is $1000. and you still have to make adjustments. I think I'll stay with Ink Stitch, And best of all, its free...... Could you do a video on how to create a entire Satin Font? I know its a lot of work, or do you think its easier to purchase one and install it?
Good information, thank you... Making a satin stitch font for Inkstitch Lettering Tool th-cam.com/video/4bRyF_3Dkqs/w-d-xo.html And, Adding purchased satin fonts to inkstitch Letters to Font th-cam.com/video/r9gKB-SPeUQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi :) I have watched many of your videos and would love to know if you could troubleshoot for me. I am a complete beginner to embroidery and Inkstitch. I have a design bought off Etsy. It is ready to be stitched out but I use Brothread thread 40 colours. I have installed the various thread options through thread management and my thread is in the list. When I apply a colour to the design to change it (the design was designed with a brown thread but I want to change it to grey)and simulate it, it wont render and doesnt show me the colour change. I then have to click out the simulation screen and inkscape becomes unresponsive and I have to close it down. I tried another type of thread like Janome from the list and it did the same. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. What am I doing wrong? All I want to do is see the part of my design ive changed in simulation mode and it will not cooperate!! Please help if you can (I am not on FB) Many thanks :) From the UK
Hello to the UK :) It can be tricky working with already digitized embroidery. Inkscape is designed to work with svg files and inkstitch is designed to work with inkscape. When you're changing colors in an embroidery file take care to know if it's a fill stitch or a satin stitch or a straight (running) stitch. Changing colors of satin stitches and running stitches you need to press and hold the shift button when clicking a color and can't have a fill color. Fill colors require that you don't press shift and don't have a stroke color. This might be what is going on. On another note, the color of the stitch in the embroidery file really doesn't matter in the end. No matter what color is represented in the file you just use the color thread you want instead, the machine doesn't know that you have red where it thinks green should be. One last thing, some embroidery files don't hold a color code and will be all sorts of random colors. We use .dst files for ricoma and the colors that I set on inkscape are not what the machine thinks it should be. Let me know if this helps. I do have a video about working with embroidery files, I may do another to address color changes.
@@LowTechLinux now you say it, when I import the embroidery file it is all random sorts of colours and does not represent what the picture actually is at all so I see what you mean! This is great advice and I will definitely try the shift button and double check my stitch types. Thank you so much for your help. It has really helped!! Keep up the good informative videos and thank you for replying to my individual situation :)
I don't have one specifically for exclusion but I do have one for difference to remove the extra layers. See if this helps. th-cam.com/video/x92DMHWqpC8/w-d-xo.html
Good afternoon. Thanks for your videos, I've learned so much. The one problem I faced and cannot resolve: my "brother" machine skip last row of embroidery made in inkstitch. Don't understand why?
There's two work arounds that usually work. 1. You can change the stitch angle in params, set the stitch angle to 45. That often will work and adds a nicer stitch on most occasions to your fill stitch. 2. Select the fill object in question, go extensions > inkstitch > commands > attach command to selected object. In the command options popup select only start fill and end fill position and hit ok. Move the start and end command attachment to a different position. Usually either one of these will work, occasionally you'll need to do both. Let me know if that helps.
@@LowTechLinux works fine, on different shapes it works both or only one from two, thanks. Additionally, I play around with amount of spacing between rows.
LOL the angle is easier if you do it 15,45 etc. up to 180 (half a circle) then to do the opposite just put -15 or -45 etc. again up to -180 and let inkscape deal with what the angle numbers are :) as for the defaults, can you not set params up then save as a preset? granted you would need to load the preset but would be all set so less chance of missing something. did you know you can use auto-route on running stitches, set them up as satin stitch, run the auto-route command then convert the satin to running stitch, it will keep the auto-route. not something that needs to be used often but can come in handy (digitising an 'X' for a cross stitch project for example)
I knew you'd fix my blunder lol. As far as I know inkstitch doesn't have editable presets. It's on the wishlist in the GitHub discussion forum. I so want to be able to set my own presets.
it's not a blunder, it's a learning experience lol yes being able to set defaults (and reset them if needed) would be good but in the meantime if you set say a fill like you said, save that as a preset called 'basic fill' or something. whilst its not editable as such you can change those settings then overwrite it, saving it with the same name. would make it easier I think to just load the preset
1mm is getting close to being too narrow for a satin stitch. I recommend going into params and adding about .2 to the pull compensation setting. Also use a very rigid stabilizer (not tear away). Let me know if this helps. If it doesn't we will try something else.
I'm still a complete noob when it comes to machine embroidery and I've tried watching multiple channels for Inkstitch tutorials. I ALWAYS come back to yours. You tell me every step of the process, which is amazing. Other channels assume that I'm coming to their video and I'm on page 378, but I'm actually way back here on page 2 haha. So, thank you for not making me feel stupid because I don't know what I don't know.
Just out of curiosity, do you have a "quick guide/cheat sheet" that shows the changes you make to your projects? Like you said, it would be great if they had defaults that we could "set it and forget it", but until then, an at-a-glance shortcut guide would be amazingly helpful.
Thanks for all that you do and keep on keeping on!
I don't... yet. Sounds like a good idea though :)
Excellent video, never even thought of changing the angle of the fill stitches!
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video.
This is 1 of my best channels
Thank you
Great info. I need to auto route my new project. I just started using the preset. You can make your own setting there, then choose that for any part of design.
Great, thanks 😊👌👍
I learn so much from you thank you so much !!
Awesome, Thank you very much for letting me know that I'm helping.
Great videos Thanks!
Thank you so much. Been trying to find tutorials on the settings. My designs kept having gaps and just looking so bad that my hand embroidery looked 100 times more professional. (Granted my hand embroidery has improved greatly over the past three years. Just takes me a long time to do it and I can't do perfect shapes.)
Glad I could help!
Thank you so much for sharing. I am still getting a missing line. I tried changing the start and end positions. I tried changing the angles and spaces between stitches and nothing is working. Please help.
Are you still having issues with it? Sorry for the late reply.
Thanks for video
Most welcome
Hey, Low Tech Linux Guy! Love your videos! I was wondering what kind of embroidery machine you use? I'm stitching on a low to middle class hobby machine (bernette deco 70) but I'm on the brink (?, sorry for my bad english) of buying a big one. I'm hoping that semi-industrial machines are less of a diva and more fun - at least because of using up to 15 colors in one go and the possibility of bigger projects due to bigger hoops and more usage due to free-arm-hoops. Would love some input/experiences.
Thank you.
We have a ricoma em1010 which is considered an entry level 10 needle machine machine, something of an in-between hobbyist home machine and production commercial level. It works great for most projects but isn't great for hats.
We also have a ricoma mt1501, 15 needle single head that is considered a true commercial grade model. So far it's doing great with hats.
One the multi needle side we only have ricomas and can't really do a comparison but we are happy with them.
@@LowTechLinux Thank you!! I'm eyeing for the ricoma RCM-1501TC-8S 🙂 Hoping it is not to hard/complicated to maintanance. I'm not going for hats, though but I need a hoop with at least 450mm width for my projects.
If I may aks: did you start with those or did start with a consumer/household one, too? And is the ricoma much louder than the small ones?
We've had several single needle brother models that we started with and still have two of one model of those (I don't remember the model numbers).
Our 1501 came with 2 massive 530mm x 360mm. We haven't actually used that one yet, it's just so much bigger than what we are doing on a regular basis.
Well, they are a little louder for sure, but mostly because they run so much faster. the 1010 can do 800 stitches/minute and the 15 can go up to 1200 stitches/minute but they recommend to stay around 1000. It's really fast.
I don't think the maintenance is much harder than a single needle flat bed, The mechanics are still basically the same just on a larger scale. None of them have a self threading needle function, that part I miss.
Thanks much..!!
Stitch angle parameter will accept a negative number...
I.e. -45 ( to oppose the adjacent 45..)
Yeah, that's how often do it, but tried to do it the real math way and it didn't go so well, I'll stick to the -45 from now on LOL
I tend to have small little white gaps in my fill stitch. Any idea what’s causing that?
The simple answer is you just need to make it more dense.
Go into params and slightly lower the spacing between rows. For example, on fill the default is .25, change it to .2 and try that. Experiment with these settings and you should find a setting you like more.
Do you have a video for editing an existing embroidery file?
Well, I did something about that but I think it's hidden in one of my tips and tricks videos. So I'll make one in the next couple days specifically for that.
Hot off the presses....
th-cam.com/video/LjxPNvgWcB8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you again for the great videos. I keep learning, Oh BTW, Hatch is $1000. and you still have to make adjustments.
I think I'll stay with Ink Stitch, And best of all, its free......
Could you do a video on how to create a entire Satin Font? I know its a lot of work, or do you think its easier to purchase one and install it?
Good information, thank you...
Making a satin stitch font for Inkstitch Lettering Tool
th-cam.com/video/4bRyF_3Dkqs/w-d-xo.html
And, Adding purchased satin fonts to inkstitch Letters to Font
th-cam.com/video/r9gKB-SPeUQ/w-d-xo.html
Hi :) I have watched many of your videos and would love to know if you could troubleshoot for me. I am a complete beginner to embroidery and Inkstitch. I have a design bought off Etsy. It is ready to be stitched out but I use Brothread thread 40 colours. I have installed the various thread options through thread management and my thread is in the list. When I apply a colour to the design to change it (the design was designed with a brown thread but I want to change it to grey)and simulate it, it wont render and doesnt show me the colour change. I then have to click out the simulation screen and inkscape becomes unresponsive and I have to close it down. I tried another type of thread like Janome from the list and it did the same. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt. What am I doing wrong? All I want to do is see the part of my design ive changed in simulation mode and it will not cooperate!! Please help if you can (I am not on FB) Many thanks :) From the UK
Hello to the UK :)
It can be tricky working with already digitized embroidery. Inkscape is designed to work with svg files and inkstitch is designed to work with inkscape.
When you're changing colors in an embroidery file take care to know if it's a fill stitch or a satin stitch or a straight (running) stitch. Changing colors of satin stitches and running stitches you need to press and hold the shift button when clicking a color and can't have a fill color. Fill colors require that you don't press shift and don't have a stroke color. This might be what is going on.
On another note, the color of the stitch in the embroidery file really doesn't matter in the end. No matter what color is represented in the file you just use the color thread you want instead, the machine doesn't know that you have red where it thinks green should be.
One last thing, some embroidery files don't hold a color code and will be all sorts of random colors. We use .dst files for ricoma and the colors that I set on inkscape are not what the machine thinks it should be.
Let me know if this helps. I do have a video about working with embroidery files, I may do another to address color changes.
@@LowTechLinux now you say it, when I import the embroidery file it is all random sorts of colours and does not represent what the picture actually is at all so I see what you mean! This is great advice and I will definitely try the shift button and double check my stitch types. Thank you so much for your help. It has really helped!! Keep up the good informative videos and thank you for replying to my individual situation :)
No problem at all, thank you for letting me know that it worked (more or less :))
Do you have any videos on how to use exclusion if you have multiple layers in inkstitch
I don't have one specifically for exclusion but I do have one for difference to remove the extra layers. See if this helps. th-cam.com/video/x92DMHWqpC8/w-d-xo.html
Good afternoon. Thanks for your videos, I've learned so much.
The one problem I faced and cannot resolve: my "brother" machine skip last row of embroidery made in inkstitch. Don't understand why?
There's two work arounds that usually work.
1. You can change the stitch angle in params, set the stitch angle to 45. That often will work and adds a nicer stitch on most occasions to your fill stitch.
2. Select the fill object in question, go extensions > inkstitch > commands > attach command to selected object. In the command options popup select only start fill and end fill position and hit ok. Move the start and end command attachment to a different position.
Usually either one of these will work, occasionally you'll need to do both.
Let me know if that helps.
@@LowTechLinux works fine, on different shapes it works both or only one from two, thanks. Additionally, I play around with amount of spacing between rows.
LOL the angle is easier if you do it 15,45 etc. up to 180 (half a circle) then to do the opposite just put -15 or -45 etc. again up to -180 and let inkscape deal with what the angle numbers are :)
as for the defaults, can you not set params up then save as a preset? granted you would need to load the preset but would be all set so less chance of missing something.
did you know you can use auto-route on running stitches, set them up as satin stitch, run the auto-route command then convert the satin to running stitch, it will keep the auto-route. not something that needs to be used often but can come in handy (digitising an 'X' for a cross stitch project for example)
I knew you'd fix my blunder lol.
As far as I know inkstitch doesn't have editable presets. It's on the wishlist in the GitHub discussion forum. I so want to be able to set my own presets.
it's not a blunder, it's a learning experience lol
yes being able to set defaults (and reset them if needed) would be good but in the meantime if you set say a fill like you said, save that as a preset called 'basic fill' or something. whilst its not editable as such you can change those settings then overwrite it, saving it with the same name. would make it easier I think to just load the preset
Thanks for the info. My only issue inkstitch visualize shows small satin stitch, but sews look unreadable.
I'm not sure what you are trying to say here. If you could be a bit more descriptive with your issue I'll try to help if I can.
@@LowTechLinux 1 millimeter looks good on screen , but when embroidered it's not looking clear
1mm is getting close to being too narrow for a satin stitch.
I recommend going into params and adding about .2 to the pull compensation setting. Also use a very rigid stabilizer (not tear away).
Let me know if this helps. If it doesn't we will try something else.
@@LowTechLinux will do. Thanks
can u make national flag? Korea or US plz..
I'll do it, sometime in the next couple of days. Thank you for the suggestion.
@@LowTechLinux ohh thank you..!!
th-cam.com/video/UwSCfeLI6Ts/w-d-xo.html
@@LowTechLinux thank you so much!!!^^
Could you provide names or links for your Facebook and Reddit groups? Thanks.
For inkstitch
facebook.com/groups/inkstitch/
And
reddit.com/r/inkstitch
Others
facebook.com/lowtechlinux
reddit.com/r/lowtechlinux