Thanks Tim, this was by far and away the most informative video in a sea of vanfluencers and shills, like so many resorting to vans either through desire or necessity I just don't have thousands to spend so appreciate your ingenuity and candid honesty.
Always wanted to know how to survive intense heat living in van life. This is for my precious dog. There’s barely any videos on this. Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏼❤️
@@Suleeto 1990 AWD ,I love that Van. I bought it with for 900 and took a chance came with solar and everything 2,000 watt inverter but I had the differentials rebuilt new tires new shocks so I went through it so I have about 3,000 in it I've been to Arizona from California about three or four times air works amazing it never has let me down and I'm very happy with it
Thanks J.G. I'll definitely be getting them tinted. Just need to find unbiased scientific testing between all the different types out there. (I keep hearing ceramic is king!) Will have to do some research this spring!
@@chadmutchler5062 I'm planning on driving across Asia so that sounds just what I need. What should I search for pls Chad? I'm in the UK at the moment.
@@VanwithTim Be careful with the windshield tint if you wear polarised glasses as with most brands you will see the "polarising" streaks while wearing the sunnies. No so important with side windows but you want your windscreen clear
I am not an electronics wizard by any stretch. You are the expert here. Most of what you talk about 99 per cent of us may not understand. But....... I have watched so many videos on TH-cam about building a conversion van. Many are professionally done by experts, like Humble Road. You and he could have a meaningful conversation on wiring techniques. So in my humble, novice opinion, it would be to your benefit in the long run to change out all your batteries to lithium. Twice as efficient and half the weight. And change out your inverter to Xantrex. Practically every decent conversion, where the owner has the funds, use this brand, because it is one of the best. If you already know all this, please forget I ever mentioned it. I wish I had half your knowledge on wiring systems. It would make watching videos like this more pleasant. I like your choice of vehicles. The Express 4x4 is so much better than any Ford 2- wheel drive. Happy motoring sir.
Thank you kindly. Is there any place/link/text of your current heat and ventilation setup/opinion (& what not to do). I'm unsure from the videos and the playlist watched at the moment.
I really appreciate this whole video. You answered all of my questions. I think part of the benefit of your strategy is that you've got a nice, big air intake and you're pulling from the shade. Smart. I'm prepping for my van conversion a year from now and the heat is the biggest issue. I was about to give up and just spend the $2500 for a good rv AC, but even that's going to pull a lot of power. Makes more sense to spend less on the AC and save the roof space for more solar. But I guess the best offense is a great defense so the first thing I have to do is get rid of as many windows as I can. Insulate, insulate, *insulate*.
Most definitely throw your money at insulation! If I were to do it again, I would insulate with way more foam board and invest in IR blocking tint. I would also upgrade to an 8,000 BTU *Inverter* style AC unit (variable speed compressor). I also wish I had left room for a roof top fan, but the solar is really nice (and necessary) for AC.
Nice job.... Cool to see you are using agm batteries. Not everyone can afford Lithium and you've got a mixture of brands. I think that's cool. I can't afford like $2000 for a battery bank. Also the AC unit @ $200 is affordable. Thank you for posting!!!
The fact that people can dislike a video this efficient like this actually pisses me off to no end... New subscriber here, this video is supremely awesome and so so so inspiring!! However, please, I need your help!! I desperately need to know four main things regarding your panels, along with a few details that pertain to each respectively: 1.) What's your take on Renogy panels versus Sunpower panels in terms of efficiency as well as price (if you have any personal experience with Renogy panels)? 2.) Where did you buy these 320w Sunpower solar panels!?!? Directly from their site?? 3.) What are the full dimensions of your panels?? You had mentioned 60 inches wide, but 60 by what? Your van looks like it has the closest dimensions to my truck that I have seen on TH-cam so far. I am trying to mount as many panels on top of my 1994 GMC Suburban 1500 (XL) as I can, as well as with the maximum watt rating I can get, and after taking measurements I figure I can only fit five 100w panels up there (Renogy 40x21 panels) comfortably / stealthily; or 6 of them if I forwent stealth, but even with 600w it just wont be enough. That is with not removing the OEM bike rack mount that the vehicle shipped with, as I had originally planned to use the rack to mount the panels, to avoid having to cut holes as I have little access to power tools right now, but I am highly considering finding a way to use tools and just do it without the bike rack after having watched your video. 4.) What did you use to mount the panels on the roof?? I see the stealthy / sneaky aluminum shielding on the sides to make it less obvious that they're up there and I love it, but is that aforementioned shielding just to cover them up are are they actually mounted to it?? But I also see that you somehow managed to create a gap inbetween the panels and the actual roof for ventilation so they don't overheat; how did you manage to make this gap?? And what were the power tools you used to make holes in your roof / how did you make them totally water and erosion proof?? Sorry to bombard you with questions, but I am in a bad spot right now after having lost my rental as well as job to COVID layoffs a few months back and I am working on getting new work; also 90% of the videos I find on here are people spending thousands on even just the AC for their van, not to mention their vehicles all look to be very different in size from mine. Yours is the closest I have found to the same general looking dimensions as mine, as well as a good looking blend of affordability, so your input is worth its weight in gold!! Thank you so much man in advance for any insights you can help me with!!!
Thanks for checking it out! Let’s knock out these questions: 1) For solar brands / efficiency / price. Check out this portion of my van regret video: th-cam.com/video/opOaJkHXDSg/w-d-xo.html Basically so long as they’re not the flexible stick on panels, you’ll be fine in terms of efficiency and quality (They’re all pretty close). However I would NOT purchase your panels online. The price is double, triple, and even quadruple what you’d pay purchasing locally. Check Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for panels locally and save some $$ 2) Where did I source my panels. I found them on Facebook marketplace about an hour away from me at the time of the van build. I just kept searching around for something close to my roof width. These were a few inches over my ideal size but managed to work. There are TONS of solar panels for sale in Southern California, but I also found a lot while building a van in Michigan as well. I wouldn’t get stuck on brand with the panels, just search out Monocrystalline panels to land somewhere in the top of the solar efficiency range. But even the standard Polycrystalinline panels are very close in efficiency. 3) Solar panel dimensions. Again I just kind of searched around for the closest dimensions I could find in the used panel market. (These ran me $100 each) These specific panels measure 31.42” x 61.39” Here’s the spec sheet: www.energymatters.com.au/images/sunpower/spwr_230wh_com_en_a4.pdf 4) Details on panel mounting? You mentioned having an OEM roof mount, that would be ideal. My mount is extremely functional & rugged but pretty ugly. I actually only had one final day before moving out of my house to get things buttoned up and couldn’t think of anything better / more budget friendly at the time… The front and back panels have metal L brackets holding them to the roof. (The front bracket bolts into an internal roof beam, the back is just screwed into the sheet metal) I painted both brackets white before mounting for rust proofing, then used tons of white silicone for water proofing. The sides are fully held by the bent steel panels. I just cut the pieces from a 2’x4’ panel I picked up from Home Depot. Kind of sloppy but it worked. Those are just held in by a plethora of stainless self-tapping screws. (I painted the panels before mounting for rust proofing). I mentioned it being a rushed process: the panels are just sitting directly on the roof. If you removed all the mounting, they would remain in the exact same spots via gravity. The air gap was a nice bonus, but not by my own doing. (The curvature of the roof created the gap along the sides) I do wish I had more of a gap for cooling, or simply installed some fan powered ventilation to the bottoms of the panels. It’s not a huge drop in efficiency, but I know it can’t be good for the panels to get so warm. I have a few pictures of this setup here: instagram.com/p/B-4q8MqFnDw/ (swipe through the pictures for the detailed shots) Final thoughts: My panels total 920w (I misspoke in the video saying 320w ea. Actually 230w ea) After conversion losses and such, I typically max out around 700w. This is pretty normal on solar. So plan on only getting around 75% of the rated output. The 6k BTU AC unit only does okay, not great. The issue I have is the number of windows in the van. I know your Suburban is also a giant solar oven. With an upgrade to infrared blocking ceramic tint I’m sure we would both do fantastic, but that tint runs $600 - $800. For now we have home-made insulated window covers which help immensely. More than anything try to stay positive! I’m sure you’re incredibly stressed. Just try to do one productive thing each day, even if it’s small. Otherwise you’ll start feeling stuck. (That’s a tough rut to get out of). Let me know if you have any other questions! Happy to help! -Tim
@@notumoverflow5916 thanks for spreading the channel! Keep us updated on your build, and of course let me know if I can provide any insight 👍 I’ve seen some brilliant builds in much smaller vehicles than your Suburban. Just have to stay clever and always think outside the box! Bright side is you have much less air-space to cool than some of those giant high-top vans!
Thanks Michael. Still torn between rural living and city living. Both have their appeal. I'm no stranger to street parking or the countless Walmart / casino / apartment parking lots haha. TH-cam makes it look like it's all glamor in the great outdoors. The reality is spending lots of time on Google, scouting different spots for an undisturbed overnight rest.
@@VanwithTim I haven’t ever parked in a parking yet, nor a underground spot to escape a storm or hot weather. Not torn at all. I don’t like bugs, I don’t like cleaning up after people, don’t like camp smoke and I can’t b best in the world in the middle of nowhere. U will c when we meet. Go b u, I’m just as happy. I only need to move once a week and I’m back an hour later. Everyone knows what I’m doing, some check on me, some r new pals and as soon as everyone gets their shots, looking forward to making more friends. Good luck buddy.
@@VanwithTim up your intuition Tim. OK so I got it wrong in Amsterdam and had to try again but ended up with a beaut of a spot for three days and only 200yrds to the metro. WINNING
@@jupiteradventure5284 There's definitely been some spots I'm okay sleeping but the girlfriend says no to lol (Maybe she watches too many serial killer movies haha)
Living in Australia, not having AC is the number one reason I've dreamt about putting together a van camper to travel around a bit but never seriously considered it so i found this very interesting. Thank you! The southern half of Australia can get cold on certain clear nights in winter on the odd occasion (0 to -3 centigrade) so heating isn't really an issue but EVERYWHERE gets in the high 30's to mid-high 40's range in summer. The thought of trying to sleep through a 33 degree centigrade night in a van makes my skin crawl. Especially on those nights where the breeze is hotter than the ambient temperature because its blown off the desert 1000 km away lol
Oh man. It's one thing being hot inside a house, but when you're trapped inside a metal box cooking in the sun that's a whole new level of physical and psychological torture. You made mention of the ceramic tint in the other comment. Do you have it installed? Does it seem to really make a huge difference? Still a bit sticker shocked on what I've been reading online for pricing!
@@VanwithTim No i dont have it installed as my prescription sunglasses are polarised. The place where i took my car for tinting did sell the clear ceramic film for windscreens but told me theirs would react to my polarised sunglasses (making rainbow colours and stress marks visible). They did mention that not all do but the brand they use did. I do remember though that they told me it would reduce the heat getting through the windscreen by the same amount as 20% tint does. Great Channel man, I've subbed.
I've crunched the numbers to get AC (no roof-mount units) in my Van here in Australia: $2800. Now, going the DiY route, Anything under 2.4kw locally is garbage. Buying a small 120v unit like yours and a US Inverter, imported to Australia, I'll get change from $1000. Great video mate !
If your interested, I'm just trying the same thing Guys. I've managed to find a heat pump unit - with a duct pipe outlet - I'm planning on ducting it fore and aft of my build. Plus of course it will heat very very efficiently in the cold weather.. oh, and so far it's cost me just over £320
@@jupiteradventure5284 I hear heat pumps are more common across the Atlantic than in the US. So sad as it's such a simple principle and typically the most efficient form of electric heat! Sounds like a sweet build!
everything you're doing with that van is exactly what i've had in mind that I wanna do, except i'm just too lazy...... Good choice on the solar panels. Most people don't realize the flexible ones are just horrible.
Thanks! Let's just say there was a LOT of caffeine and sleep deprivation that went into this build haha. Quit the job, sold the house, bought this van, and hit the road in just over a month's time. My body HATED me the following two months lol. Cheers! -Tim
Very nice. Love seeing more Express vans being converted to campers! The Sprinters / Transits / Promasters all make fine campervans, but there's just something perfectly quirky and slightly more bad-ass about the domestic V8 RWD platforms. Cheers! -Tim
@@VanwithTim They're probably also easier to drive, particularly at highway speeds and in somewhat windy conditions. (I'm referring of course to the domestic V8 RWD vans). I used to own an old Roadtrek (Dodge). That thing was ALL OVER THE ROAD at speeds over 45mph...drift drift, squirrely, white-knuckle driving. I adored that van as a living space but had to get rid of it because I had put THOUSANDS of dollars into every facet related to drivability, and nothing helped. (I'm sure my anxiety as a driver factored in because the guy who bought it from me says he feels what I'm talking about but just keeps reassuring himself that he's not going to blow off the road even though it feels like he will.) Anyway...I'm currently in the market for a van to convert and am terrified of any of the high-roof vans for the above reasons, and that includes the nice high-top Chevy Express conversion vans. Sorry, I just rambled too much. Love your content and those who contribute via comments are also very helpful! Cheers to all!
@@VanwithTim Yes, but that defeats the versatility/agility a van, without trailer, gives you. Considering the amount of solar you have on the van, that translates to a fairly large trailer, unless it can be collapse it into something smaller, while traveling. There is a Tesla prototype for such a trailer, but I don't know how much solar (watts) it carries.
That's an awesome job, I saw your other video when you build the whole ac unit set up, great information. I should use some plastic flexible tubes on the vent of the ac to get the flow of the cold air up but besides that is one of the best jobs I've seen so far.
Thanks for making this! I've got 500w solar and 300ah of lithium. Hopefully enough solar to keep it running more than a couple hours like people are suggesting.. I don't see why it couldn't especially after seeing this. I think I'll add a couple more panels eventually too if I don't need a roof ac!
Thanks its hard to get simple answers without a lot of technical knowledge the question would be can the major appliances run all night on a battery bank?then how big of a battery pack? Then can it run on solar panels alone, how many panels?those are simple yes or no questions you have answered well. When I design my system I will use off the shelf house ac and refrigerator and microwave, I'm putting a lipo4 bank together when I get a few dollars ahead I buy another cell,so I will have a formidable house bank
It's certainly tough to give straight answers with so many variables, but hopefully it's inspired some ideas in the DIY conversion community! I'm all for 12v appliances if you have an unlimited budget, but for me it just wasn't realistic. Will probably be right behind you with a lithium setup though. Only concern is their max discharge rate. I'll need them to handle up to 170a continuous discharge with my induction plate. I remember that was an issue a couple years back. Perhaps it's since been resolved? Thanks for watching Ronald
@@VanwithTim doing some internet research it seems like the discharge rate has been solved for lithium at least I think it's the initial surge of amps,to start electrical appliances that cause the problem. I plan using propane for heating water and cooking, with a small wood stove as backup
great multi functioning systems! i live at 9,000' and dont need airconditioning if i can park in the shade, but i want a fridge. ill have to rework my solar setup. its just a renogy starter kit. maybe add a couple more 100w pannels, and a good 100ah batt.
all im running is a fan, usb phone charging, and a 24" tv ill install in the spring. and bluray player. i guess ill add all that up and write renogy for a recommendation. surely i wont need more than one 100ah li batt, and 300w of solar panels. its so sunny in colorado. of course i dont want anymore than i need lol
Wow what are you using for heat up there? Diesel heater? Propane? Sounds chilly. I've been pretty impressed with the fridge. I know it's not meant to bounce around so much, but it hasn't missed a beat even while parked vacant for a week in the sun (nearly 175F / 80C inside temp). Luckily the 3.1cuft fridge / freezer combos are available nationwide disguised under different brand names but with the exact same dimensions. Once it eventually dies, I can swap in a new one for $160 and 10 minutes of time the same day. Check Craigslist and FB Marketplace for solar panels! I've found them (brand new) much cheaper locally both in California and Michigan than I ever could have online.
@@VanwithTim i put rails on my roof (cargo trailer conversion, my second one) and the renogy compact 100w'ers fit great. i can probably fit 4 there. i cant imaging i need more than that, where i live! ive got a relatively new dorm fridge, maybe a little smaller than yours. dont know. heck ya ill use that! like you said. i think its less than 100w. im on my 5th heater, since my first trailer. wood is a major pain. catalytic is too wet. ive got a nuway vented propane now. working great! theyre built for ice shantys.
@@d-arts7139 yeah if you’re not running anything too wild I’m sure that would be plenty of solar! I just installed one of those sketchy Chinese diesel heaters and seems to work alright. Tossed in three CO detectors to be “safe” lol Propane is definitely top of the line. Glad you’re staying warm up there 👌
@@VanwithTim I just saw where people have to take apart those heaters for cleaning and maintenance. I don’t want to maintain anything! I’m lazy. I even thought about the German one, or others, but some are intensive to get going. This one takes up space but is great heat. I’m also camping a lot at 11,000’ and it takes serious output up that high. So, 5th time is a charm I guess
I know this vid is almost a year old, but for the problem with heat coming in your windows you should have them ceramic tinted. It really makes a world of difference. Id also strongly suggest having your windshield done, most heat comes in through there as its the biggest piece of glass on a van. Theres 70% film thats pretty much clear so police dont pull you over, or you could go 35% or 50% for extra privacy, 5% on all the rear ones though.
You’re spot on. I’ve been eyeing the IR ceramic tint for a while now but have been delaying it due to the cost ($600-$800) Everything I’m reading also suggests the windshield as it’s the largest piece of glass in the vehicle. I know I need to set a week aside and make some before and after tint testing videos!
I would go with 24 volts for high power draw, 12 volts can have issue with start up load, heating wires and efficiency loss. One large battery can have issues with 600watts because the voltage can drop below the cut out voltage on the inverter.
I was really torn between 12v and 24v for those exact reasons. Luckily I had a great source for free wire, so doubling the size wasn't detrimental to the budget.. I also run the 1,440w electric water heater while driving, and the 145a alternator wouldn't be able to squeeze that much juice through a cheap DC to DC converter. You're spot on with those initial power draw issues. I see a lot of lithium battery users having real problems with high current appliances. Upping the voltage cuts the amperage draw in half, solving that issue for them. Cheers! -Tim
There are 12 volt AC's out there. Cruise en comfort has 12 volt one for trucks and it comes with a duct that you put as close to the ceiling as possible. That is another possible option? But great job on making the Toshiba unit work.
Awesome setup! I have a video too on this but yours is far superior. Mine only cools (under my covers) and could never cool down my whole van because I have a wimpy system. Awesome job and hope you get a million views! Maybe reflectix on the outside of the windows? Again.. just spreading the love... N8 Nomad.
N8 Nomad thank you! Your setup works out nicely! I actually just finished a Promaster build for someone and talked about ducting through the door like that, but he ultimately went with an expensive (and power hungry) rooftop AC. I made some magnetic window covers with felt and reflectix inside but might stuff some Thinsulate in them as well. They make a good amount of different so far but could improve! Always learning!
N8 Nomad bro I just watched you too!! And loved your video 😭 you guys are creative, very very great ideas fellas. When I build mine I will be sure to credit you as much as I can, always love !
My 1965 Airstream Globetrotter has all original antique Romex, so I’m pretty sure telling people they have to use stranded is more marketing than fact. It the Airstream the Romex is just run between the aluminum panels and they are not fastened to anythin, but it’s not 14 gauge, more like 10 or 12 with something like a single 16 ground, maybe even 18. The little ground wire on 1965 Romex, lol.
I would like to see maybe 2 more instances of plumbers tape on that battery, tightly held down, and a larger piece of wood to keep it secured, possibly 4, it should be able to hold it if it's upside down
Absolutely. The batteries and the 620lb water tank are what really scare me in the event of a roll-over. Has worked fine for heavy off-roading (and the rare panic stop). Of course that's nothing compared to flying through the air and turning upside down. Wish I had taken up welding to make some REAL secure mounting points. A good project in the future. -Tim
@@VanwithTim By chance, do you have a link to those fans? I watched your video with immense interest, finding it nearly impossible to believe that you can run a 6k BTU AC unit ALL DAY on battery/solar power. I've watched the video three times and I'm still shocked and finding it implausible. But I'm currently in the market for a new (to me) used van, and am appreciating all of your videos immensely. I hope life is treating you well since your vanlife days. Thanks for all the great content.
For sure. Mine has windows all around though so no way to exhaust the condenser heat unless out through the pop-out side window. Will have to duct the cool air up higher in my next re-config!
Have you thought of peltier plates? 12V (no step up voltage) and no moving parts. Much more efficient than compressor. Less draw means less need to generate power.
Interesting stuff! Nice build and I like your explanations. Electrics is probably my area of least expertise and experience and so many options and opinions it gets confusing which is the best way to go. Here in Eastern Canada the sun is so infrequent and weak for most of the year that I’m not confident that solar is going to be the best/most cost effective way to go. I’m thinking DC to Dc charger to go with my 2000w inverter and then figure out a couple of batteries for it. Then something like a Jackery for back up? Not likely to need a/c but would really like a small fridge/freezer like yours. Thanks for the vid - have subbed and will take a look through your others. 👍🏻
Thanks for checking it out! I know solar is a bit tougher to catch in the north. (Originally from Michigan and it's pretty bad there even.) These 120v fridge / freezer combos draw between 70 - 100 watts so that setup would be plenty for it! Cheers! -Tim
Thanks! I checked out that type of fridge/freezer combo and there seems to be a few on the market to choose from and, as you say, you could go through three or four of them before you got close to the price of a specialist unit. Is there a formula for working out the size of batteries to go for? My inverter is recommended to have two running with it and my budget would dictate AGM but I don’t want to be under powered or trying to charge more than I need. Other than charging laptop etc I would mainly be looking at the fridge and one of those induction cooktops for indoor cooking and a few LED lights. I have a propane heater at the moment but might look at a diesel one which I know uses a small amount of electricity as well. Cheers!
@@MapleMarmite The real killer will be the induction cooktop. We have one as well (1800w) In other words, it's equal to running 10+ refrigerators at once while cooking. Our 360AH AGM setup works well for pretty much the same thing although you may have to run the engine a bit more often to re-charge (as solar is less plentiful there)
Sylvia Justice yes, there are two “sides” of the AC unit. The inside (climate controlled) side, and the outside. The outside needs to suck outdoor air through the sides and top of the unit then push that air through the condenser (cooling the freon). This Freon then goes to the “inside” (climate controlled) side of the unit. It flows the cold Freon through the evaporator core. A second fan pulls the “inside” air through this cold evaporator core and pushes out the ice cold air into the van. The Freon then moves through the compressor and back to the outside condenser to be cooled and the cycle restarts!
How does it work on a hot night? Does it run continuous? Mine usually runs 10 min on and 20 off so it's 2/6 the hour rate really, on regular summer nights. Can you run on low or high? How many watts is it pulling per hour if not continuous so not watt hours, unless you're dividing it by time, if you know what i mean. Does alternator produce enough to run it and does van have built in AC? Can you use it half the night, run van to recharge for an hour and run rest of night? Do you stay about 50% for AGM? Would you like lithium? Would having a second level of panels that slide out like an awning help? Or some internal panels you can place outside when needed?
These are the important questions!! Thank you for bringing it up. (I do have plans for a fantastic timelapse of battery voltage, along with interior / exterior temps coming this summer!) For now: ⚫ Hot night usage? It seems to work okay at night, but we haven’t tested it on a HOT night (like the 105F summer nights of Phoenix) I suspect the batteries would end up struggling towards the end. ⚫ Compressor cycle times at night? If I recall (been a while now!) ours started around 15 minutes on, 7 minutes off (so 41 mins run time per hour) but that very quickly tapered down to maybe 10 minutes on, 30 minutes off (so around 15 minutes run time per hour) then eventually just not needing to run anymore as the cool outside air finally cools the inside. ⚫Run on low or high? I’ll have to re-measure the low speed fan power draw, but I recall it using VERY CLOSE to the same power as high speed. It was such a small difference, I just always left it on high! ⚫ Average watts USED per hour? I finally measured my ACTUAL usage instead of going off the sticker. So, with the inverter inefficiency included, it was only around 510 watts (high fan speed: 106 watts + 404 watts compressor running). So three examples of high speed with compressor running (depending on compressor on/off time) On all hour: 510 watt/hr (40.5 AH @ 12.6v) Compressor & fan on 41 minutes, “fan only” on 19 minutes: 382 watt/hr (30.3 AH @ 12.6v) Compressor & fan on 15 minutes, “fan only” on 45 minutes: 207 watt/hr (16.4AH @ 12.6v) ⚫ AC “Eco Mode” I need to mention the unit is often in “eco mode” which only runs the fan while the compressor is running (instead of running the fan 24/7 at 106 watts) So my above calculation would actually be: Compressor & fan on 41 minutes, 19 minutes off: 349 watt/hr (27.7 AH @ 12.6v) Compressor & fan on 15 minutes, 45 minutes off: 128 watt/hr (10.2 AH @ 12.6v) ⚫ Alternator output? It’s a 145a alternator (so around 2,000 watts at 3.5k RPM) At idle it outputs around 1,000 watts so no problem running the electric AC The van also has factory AC, but I deleted the rear portion. (The 6.0L V8 uses nearly ½ gallon of fuel per hour just idling. Very expensive) ⚫ Run van for half night to recharge? You could run the van, but at idle (with the AC unit running), it would only charge around 35 amps and the other 40 amps would be running the AC. ⚫Stay around 50% state-of-charge on AGM? This is where I make people mad… I run my batteries DOWN. Before finally getting my diesel heater, I used an electric blanket AND a 1,000 watt space heater through the night. I would constantly bring them down to 11v. I absolutely took a huge chunk out of their serviceable life. With my completely careless mindset, I never had any issue with the AC running throughout the night. The solar would come back in the AM, we’d go exploring (simultaneously letting the alternator re-charge the batteries), then do it all over again. ⚫Opinions on lithium? I do think I’ll end up going lithium once these AGMs finally bite the dust. Two things I’m weary about with lithium: 1) Temperature: hey HATE the cold. You really need to install a temperature controlled electric heating pad around them or they just won’t work - charging or discharging from my understanding. 2) Max discharge rate: I run an 1,800-watt induction plate and a 1,440-watt water heater. (143 amps and 115 amps of constant prolonged discharge on the battery bank) The AGM’s have no problem with this, however the lithium’s usually don’t tolerate such high amperage draws. I really need to do a bit more research when the time comes. There may be new developments in the lithium technology by then! ⚫Extra solar panels? Sliding a second row of panels out is a pretty cool idea! But if I were to do it again, I would just add a tilting mechanism to my current panels. That would REALLY increase the daily solar output if you could keep them pointed at the sun. (There are some videos out on this!) I don’t think I’d carry extra panels with me personally. I hate having to set up and tear down. I also do a good amount of off roading and would be worried about breaking a huge extra set of solar panels hanging around inside. Thanks a ton for the really great questions! Let me know what I can help clarify! -Tim
@@VanwithTim Wow great reply! I'm from Canada and canbat.com sells heated lithium batteries. I just checked battle born and they also have them. I guess they're getting more common. I'm thinking of going with a 48v system because I plan to eventually transfer it to an off grid cabin or just use additional external panels. With 48v your inverter doesn't draw as much amps so the 1800w induction would be only 38 amps! Plus it's cheaper for wiring and inverters and everything. But I plan to use an all in one box. Must see video about 48v all in one if interested. th-cam.com/video/ikDLxnf1ePQ/w-d-xo.html Anyways, thanks for all the info, much appreciated.
@@domalash Oh nice! Glad to see they're coming heated now! Good call with the 48v! Great way to save on wiring costs. Let me know if there's any other insight I can provide!
Hey Tim, can you expand on how you attached your panels to the top of your van? It looks like the panels sit directly on top of the van and that you’ve got your panels bolted primarily along the sides. I see that you have a piece of angle iron on your front panel holding it down, did you do that for all four panels? I’m assuming yes due to the wind when driving. For the solid sheet metal (if that’s what it is) along the sides, how did you attach that to the van? I see the bolts connecting the metal to the panels but I don’t see where the sheet metal connects to the van. I’m building out a 95 Ford e150 right now and, after watching your videos, I’m gonna install a window ac unit as well. I bought 3 solaria 365 watt panels and they overhang my van just like yours do and I’m trying to figure out how to mount them to the top. I’d like to have some space between the panel and the roof of the van for heat and efficiency purposes. But I also want it to be sturdy and rock solid when driving down the road. Big fan of your work and all the videos you’ve posted and I appreciate your help.
Hi Chris, you’re pretty much spot on! I started by simply setting the front panel on the roof and centering it. Then aligned it with an internal roof cross-member and bolted the L-bracket down to that roof cross-member. The only other L-bracket is at the back of the rear-most panel. It doesn’t align with a cross-member, so it’s simply held with a handful of stainless self-tapping screws and a huge gob of white silicone. Then the sides were just a straight piece of sheet metal cut into strips. I began by screwing the strips into the drain rail of the roof, then I bent the sheet metal upward and screwed into the solar panels about every eight inches. (I used 1” stainless self tapping screws, although you may need longer depending on your drain rail thickness!) So far no issues (~35,000 miles). I check the fasteners from time to time but have yet to have any loosen. Obviously make sure to paint all sides of the brackets and sheet metal before installing or you’ll have a rusty mess within a year! I’ve been very surprised by the rigidity of the solar array. We spend a lot of time on some NASTY roads - paved and unpaved. I think the wind isn’t an issue because the roof becomes a bit of a “dead zone” (or even a vacuum) while driving. (At least the first couple inches above the roof.) Those Solaria panels look NICE!! Do you think you’ll go with AGM or Lithium for the battery bank? I see the Lithium is coming down in price quite nicely. Cheers! -Tim
Hi Tim, thanks for your response. I appreciate that. That makes sense on what you did. I bought two Lossigy 200ah lithium batteries back in November. And you’re definitely correct about the price of lithium going down. They’re about $80 bucks cheaper now than when I bought them. My plan is to live full time in my van for the next couple of years and AC is a must in the summer time. I’ll also have 3.1 cubic ft mini fridge along with a 12v water pump, diesel heater, puck lights, tankless water heater, etc. I’d like to think I have enough solar and a large enough battery bank to meet that. What do you think? Due to the layout of my van I’m not able to mount my AC on the side like you did yours. My plan was to have it sitting in the floor in the garage area of the van. It’ll be fully contained like yours but I’d only be cutting one hole into the floor of the van. The problem with this, I’m assuming, is that fresh and hot air are going to be pulled and pushed through the same opening. Im hoping to accommodate for this by ensuring that the hole is large enough. Again, curious what your thoughts on that might be. Thanks again for getting back to me. Enjoy your evening.
@@chrisstinson205 I would think your 400ah would be plenty, especially coupled with all that solar! For reference on the AC check out this video: th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html In a nut shell, with a perfectly insulated (R6.0) van on a sunny 83F day you can expect to use between 170ah - 200ah with the AC set at 70F. But that would be with NO WINDOWS and perfect insulation (no gaps). Realistically, with my not-so-great insulation, it used 390ah and couldn’t maintain the 70F set point. (In a perfect world, you could use the heat from the fridge and air conditioner condenser coils to heat your water!) ********* Tankless heater will be run via propane? There’s also the style that uses the engine to heat the water then a 750W heating element to maintain the temperature (my dream water heater lol) Our little 4 gal Bosch water heater does great and gives us enough water for two outdoor showers and dinner / dishes, but realistically the $180 2.5gal heater would have worked fine too amzn.to/354sIeD ********* The 2KW diesel heater has been plenty warm for us and I’m glad we didn’t go with the 5kw. We have to sleep with windows open with the 2kw running on the lowest setting already! ******* I’ve learned the window AC’s are pretty robust, and although it will draw a little more electricity with higher condenser air inlet temperatures, it will still cool just fine! I’ve seen your same configuration in a trailer build. Both intake and exhaust coming through the bottom. A REALLY cool van build had the condenser air intake below the van, then ducted the hot condenser exhaust air up and out through the roof! If you’re really handy with HVAC and refrigerants, I’ve seen another build with a window AC where he took out the entire condenser assembly and mounted it under the van with its own dedicated fan. No need for air ducting, just ran his two small compressor lines and fan electrical under the van. Takes "thinking outside the box" to another level! -Tim
Hey Tim, that’s an interesting video. I was pretty impressed with how well foam insulation boards perform. For your panels, did you wire them in series or in parallel? And why? I’m kinda shocked more people haven’t watched your 252 regrets video. I picked up sooo many tidbits of info from that. Crazy. Thanks again Tim.
@@chrisstinson205 Sorry for the late reply Chris! Funny you mention the solar wiring. I originally wired the back two in series and the front two in series, then ran them parallel to the MPPT charger. (So the four 41v panels came into the charger at 82v) After some reading of various MPPT owners manuals (and two years) It's suggested to get your input and output voltages as close as possible (without exceeding the amperage rating of the controller or the wires of course) I suppose it makes sense in theory as the voltage doesn't need to be dropped down as far, but realistically I saw no difference. Hopefully that van regret video catches on in the coming years haha. I put way too many hours into it!!
Tim nice van I have the same van however it was already a RV a pleasureway I'd like to replace my noisy rooftop AC w/ a window type and aim the cool air downward w/ a vent. an seal the back half of the window unit to shoot the hot air outward. I'd also cover the top have you ever sean a road trek chevy van it has the window unit built into the rear of the high top. I'm wanting to imitate that however a unit the size of yours would stick up a couple inchs.Tim what do you think? I've sean a bunch of ppl w/ window units sticking out the rear window thats to ghetto for me.the inside of van is full w/ galley bathroom an closets so there's no room inside like the way yours is installed.thanks for any AC advice
@@Curazalenox The initial build you're seeing here was around $3,300 in parts, most recently I'm up to around $4,900. (Van tour: th-cam.com/video/Dr3v3zLpeYQ/w-d-xo.html) Left my job in 2019 and have just been keeping busy with fun side projects!
I've seen a few versions of this setup! I think it works great if you have the room below and inside the cabin for the condenser and evaporator! If the van were a bit bigger and I didn't have all the windows surrounding the upper half of the interior, this probably would have been my preferred route.
WOW. That's a lot of solar.. but the problem with solar is you must in the hot sun. 300AH of Led acid batteries , realistically only gets you about 125AH of usable, which is only about 1500WH or 2.5 hours with that AC with nothing else running. What's the state of your batteries at 6am? Question. What engine and alternator is in that van? Does your vans OEM automotive A/C blasting on high while parked in the shade cool the van in the back? What's your opinion about running you van's Automotive A/C while parked? In my much smaller Ram Promaster city 4 cylinder I will occasionally just run van's OEM AC parked in the shade for an hour or two when i need to be inside during the day and right before going to bed. The AC on high will cool the back in 1 minute COLD. It's a debated argument, but seems mechanics consensus now is that in modern engines it's doing no harm and costing around $0.50/hour to run your AC while parked for an hour. Been doing it for a year and I just keep an eye on engine temp and coolant level .. anyways rarely do I want to be inside the van in the middle of the day for too long.
Been waiting to film a video to answer these (Lots of good questions I should have mentioned in the original video) but the weather hasn't allowed a good time-lapse test video yet. The real tricky part is the AH ratings and how unrealistic they are. Of course you could run all 300AH out of the battery bank, but you've then dropped your voltage to nearly 10.5v (causing your batteries to take a huge hit in their usable life) Lots of information and debates out there on the depth of discharge and battery cycle life. It seems the only general consensus is to try not to drain them past ~11.5v which as you pointed out, only gets you about half the "rated" AH. Luckily most places we park are hot in the day but cool at night, so the AC cycles less and less until around 1am when there's no longer any excess heat to be removed. (This is certainly NOT the case in places like Phoenix where the night temps stay in the high 90F's) Our van has a 6.0L gas V8 and a 140amp alternator. It uses about 0.9 gallons per hour at idle (about $2.20 per hour of idle) I actually just finished a 2017 Promaster build for a friend and it's a REALLY nice van to work with. Tons of space, and while it won't win any races, the 4cyl seemed pretty stout. You're spot on about the modern engines. No harm in extended idling! I'd recommend blasting the van's AC for a couple minutes to "take the edge off" then use the window AC to maintain. (I know those Promasters put out some truly COLD air!) Thanks for the great questions, and I'll update this comment once we get some warmer days to film a real world time lapse of the battery voltage, cabin temps, and exterior temperatures. Happy travels! -Tim
I know it’s a year later but Viper car alarms make a model with a temperature control. Set the temp in programming and leave your car set with ac on full blast and the alarm will turn your car on when it gets too hot.
@@ebombglass I saw a guy who rigged an old Chevy Cavalier with a house thermosat, so the engine would go on and off at different temperatures with the AC set (he just left the key turned and the AC set to max when he wanted it to auto-cool). Had to run wires into the engine, I'm not sure exactly how the rig worked, but it was pretty neat. Called the Cavacruiser if you want to look it up.
Nice built! The link show 24 V inverter but you have 12V, same with solar panel? And I have I trick to improve your comfort. If the widows are film remove it and put mirror, chrome, silver one instead. Bloc the air entry on your AC and put a lateral air duct to suck hot air from the roof.
Oh boy. Good catch! Just updated the link. The system is all 12v, but the panels are 41v I believe. Those run directly to a MPPT solar charge controller which steps the voltage down to a specified charging voltage. (I think I have mine set to around 13.5v) I was actually just looking at adding the ceramic window tint, but it's very expensive. I really like that idea of sucking the air out from under the solar. The panels get really hot in the summer and lose a lot of efficiency. Need to find a way to keep them ventilated and that's an interesting concept for it. Thanks for the insight! -Tim
@@VanwithTim Window film at Home Depot "Gila, privacy control and Energy saving" are not over price like other. they have one layer mirror outside and black inside to cut reflectivity for clearer night view. I just see your new video 20 févr. 2021. My comment come too late. The duct idea was for your A/C air inside to improve effeciency and comfort. But, for cooling the solar panel (improving efficiency and lifespan). Better to push fresh air between the roof and the panel than sucking it. The motor fan dont love heat too and I dont see a easy good installation. If you have space put a inch or fews between each panels If you need window film tips for installation. forgottingtree7@gmail.com Other topic Why stars flashing? Try with 100x camera and put out of focus. I had many books of astronomy and science( the old ones, without correction). I see the fakery (crookedness) of it. Not on YT who is easy to modified, many sites are fake truth seekers, is hard to find the good one. The big cheat ever. Hidden God from most people, by mind control and false sciences. See: shaking my head productions: Edward Bernays and Group Psychology: Manipulating the Masses, The Universal Lie - Houston We Have A Problem!, shaking my head productions 2: 666 Days In Space - The Devil Is In The Details. Walter Veith: twisting the ten commandments and freemacon priesthood jesuit order I was like you, before... I become awake (red pill). The world his not what's you has been told. Word of wisdom Let no man deceive himself. If any man among you seemeth to be wise in this world, let him become a fool, that he may be wise. 1 Corinthians 3v18 The way of a fool is right in his own eyes: but he that hearkeneth unto counsel [is] wise.Proverbs 12:15 Even a fool, when he holdeth his peace, is counted wise: [and] he that shutteth his lips [is esteemed] a man of understanding.Proverbs 17:28 A fool hath no delight in understanding, but that his heart may discover itself.Proverbs 18:2 Seest thou a man wise in his own conceit? [there is] more hope of a fool than of him. Proverbs 26:12 God bless.
Hey Michael, glad it helped! I have a video that shows the “guts” of the system. Basically it drains out through the air intake hole I made under the van. th-cam.com/video/QK_zLDNW3X8/w-d-xo.html
That's actually super interesting as some higher-end models have an internal "door" to select between recirculating the interior air or utilizing the outside air. (Would love one!!!) The outside air would work great when first trying battling the built up interior heat(120F+), but eventually you would want it in recirculate mode, that way it's only cooling the 70F interior air instead of the 90F exterior air. Hope that makes sense! -Tim
It would take a lot of custom fabrication but ANYTHING is possible if you have the skill and patience! Here's an interesting article: endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=73345 However, it seems the OEM car compressor will use up to 5HP (3.73KW) where this window AC uses only ~0.75HP (0.5KW).
hey, what about some window tint? highly reflective solar tinting. i asume you want to see out your windows, and not covert them with reflectix insulating stuff
I was just diving down that rabbit hole yesterday actually. (So many sales gimmicks of "ceramic" "carbon" "extra security" etc. I've worked with corporate marketing teams in the past and it's disgusting how easily you can double the price of an economy product line. Simply market something about it that can't easily be proven or tested.) I will end up doing tint at some point, just so much opinion based information out there makes it tough to find real unbiased research. Sorry for the rant haha. You're spot on for sure.
@@VanwithTim yea, thats why i watch youtube! you know reflectix? not spelled that way. but you could make a few panels and push them in here or there, acording where youre sitting and not necessarily all windows. would help is the openings are the same. but hey, you have enough power its a mute point. maybe privacy, sun glare, or if your batts are down and need to run the air on low?
@@d-arts7139 my biggggg rear most side windows are actually lined with the Reflectix! Then I sewed together some magnetic felt window covers with reflectix sandwiched in between. It works REALLY well in both summer and winter! But I know tiny on top of that would help a ton too
this is awesome! how long to the solar panels take to completely charge the ~300-350AH batteries and how long to the batteries run everything if the solar charging is turned off?
Thanks Roshaan, the solar outputs 55 amps (700w) at full sun. Without tilting panels, full sun is only achieved for around five hours a day. Before and after that it's a reduced amount of solar (such as the early morning / late afternoon). My batteries have been heavily abused and I'm seeing around 200AH of usable life left in them. This is still enough to run the AC throughout the night though. They will recharge fully each day but only if in full sun. (Typically around 4-5 hours). If there is no solar charging, the batteries can run the refrigerator for a couple of days before dying, but the AC will eat the batteries much faster depending on how hot it is outside.
Excellent idea as it would really increase the solar input (by more than double in some instances). It's something I would have loved to do but lacked the welding expertise.
!!!CORRECTION!!! (Filmed with the wrong solar panel datasheet) (4) 230w monocrystalline Sunpower panels (920w total Standard Test Condition) 195w "Nominal" (PTC) for a total of 780w real world production. AC battery test: th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html -Tim
Could you mount this higher up and then run ducting from under the van to where the a/c sits? The small fan may push the cold air around enough where it's not really necessary, but was there a reason you floor mounted it besides being able to pull outside air in easily? Awesome, awesome setup, much respect!!
Excellent question. It would have been ideal to mount it higher up, but our van has glass windows all around. That would have blocked our outside vent. Also the curvature of the van walls would have pushed the unit too far into the living area (if that makes sense) Thinking of adding ducting to it eventually!
What model are those panels? Are they 61x41? I have an extended Chevy express and 4 panels x 41" is 164". Which would take up almost the entire length of the roof. However, on an IG pic of your van, the panels look like they are mounted right around the back of the front door line and don't go all the way to the end of the back of the roof. For me to do that, they would need to be around 30" or so.
Roger Dayton It took a while to find these panels due to that same dimensional issue. Standard is 61x41. These panels are only 61 x 31.5! www.pocosolar.com/wp-content/themes/twentyfifteen/pdfs/Sunpower%20Solar%20Panels/sunpower_230wht_spec_sheet.pdf
Tim I just came across this video . Your setup is probably close to what I need. I bought a 98 Ford Econoline 150 last year . There is a Toshiba a/c set on the floor behind the drivers seat. It has an inverter . It has a vent like yours to the outside. I have no idea how to run this in the van. AND I live in Central Florida near Tampa . I am an older woman who finds myself having to live in the van almost full time. I can’t seem to get anyone to help me with this not even to understand what it does. That’s why I was so happy to see your video. How can I go about getting help. What all do I need ?who can do this work for me . Thank you for any advice , what state are you in?
frigidaire makes one 5K AC model that is very efficient. Could also use a device that blunts the heavy power spike on start up (dont recall what theyre called)
(The real reason was I ran out of time in the initial build) BUT!!! It turns out these panels already get way too hot with the lack of ventilation under them. Check out this article on heat soak vs solar output. It's very real and very noticeable. www.solar.com/learn/do-solar-panels-work-less-efficiently-at-certain-temperatures/ Of course with the panels being black, the heat REALLY gets wild. I've been lightly brainstorming ways to keep them cool. Luckily there's no wind noise from them which I really worried about. I guess they're low enough to avoid that. Thanks for bringing that up! -Tim
@@VanwithTim I see. I was thinking fuel efficiency/mileage reduction with no front deflectors. Maybe take the sides off and install on front to get best of both efficiency and cooling?
Sylvia Justice once the sun goes down it runs off the batteries, then in the morning the sun charges the batteries back up. Luckily the temperature drops at night so the AC doesn’t have to run very long off the batteries.
* help needed!! * hello! your videos are invaluable ! thank you for your information. i currently own a 2011 Chevy express cutaway, which I am converting to a small business for air bnb experiences. (not for living nor stealth, but hopefully to have people visit for lessons) I need constant power for an AC unit (Las Vegas Area - very HOT) my space is a bit larger than yours as its a cutaway not a van essentially it is a short bus, i would like to run 2 standard AC units just like yours, for similar reason to your fridge, if it breaks i can cheaply and easily replace it (a couple hundred rather than a couple thousand for an RV style ac unit). I am using your links to hopefully have the same solar set up as you ( I am 28 F with a criminal justice background, so I am learning everything I am doing off of TH-cam, and solar has been the most intimidating to me. My question is, would I need more panels than you have? or would it be similar wattage to the rest of your appliances to have a second AC unit? also, the solar charge controller is sold out, do you have a recommended alternate? i understand how busy you must be, and how many comments you likely get but any and all information regarding your solar set up is greatly appreciated, i am trying to make this build the best it can be with the savings i have and offloading assets as you have done, and the heat is my greatest fear and problem to mitigate, with solar i am hoping to use the Vegas sun to my advantage, thank you for your videos and safe travels!!!
I would LOVE to upgrade to an inverter compressor setup. Much more efficient. Looks like the Midea 8k BTU unit pulls 710 watts according to the spec sheet on Home Depot, but still an EXTREMELY efficient unit. Others have reported great success with the Midea units in their van builds! -Tim
@@VanwithTim Actually i have the Midea 8 k and tested its wattage and on dry mode which i prefer its 330 watts and on normal cool its 350. So this is perfect. I like dry mode because its not a damp chill and is much more comfortable. I just use a fan with it and it’s perfect for me, if thats the case, how many solar panels can i get away with?
@@goldengirls0125 It sounds like a really nice unit! If we calculate off of 340w (plus a ~10% power inverter efficiency loss of 34w) you would be using around 8,000 - 9,000w per day… BUT that’s assuming it’s pulling that 340w for the full 24 hours which is unlikely. Here’s my video on daily solar output totals: th-cam.com/video/JKKaOVQfs5o/w-d-xo.html For reference, my 920w of solar produced 5,150w total on a nice long sunny day (well, May 19th to be exact) I guess I would try to measure your full daily usage with a 120v power meter and the AC plugged into it. That would give you your true power needs! Here’s the cheap power meter I use: (currently $13 amzn.to/3UeDIul)
Have you worked on other vans? Is there any way you would do this for a price for other people? If so, I would like your info please! I have a Ford Econoline 350 Passenger van and would like to do this:)
@@VanwithTimOh my gosh, I was researching cooling options again, totally forgot that I asked this question🙈 I’m right back here a year later 😂 thank you!
Your comment inspired me to finally take the plunge into 3D modeling (via Fusion360). Little bit of a learning curve but I've been wanting to jump into it for a while. Thank you! -Tim
The exhaust grate looks amazing. I question if this set up allows enough airflow to be efficient. Also when there is high humidity there is going to be a lot of condensation, where that does that drain?
Thanks AJ! I was worried about the airflow as well. Luckily there haven't been any issues with performance. I've since seen many setups which are much more restricted (a 6"x6" air inlet and 6"x8" exhaust). The owners claim the AC works fine, but I'm sure it's much less efficient. You might find this video interesting on the AC power draw - th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html That 12-hour test was performed on a hot humid day in Michigan and it drained a LOT of condensation down through the intake grille. (I drilled a few holes in the lowest point of the AC drain pan directly above the intake grille.)
Ah. Good old Florida. Always hot and humid. I wish I could give even a general idea, but it depends so heavily on how often the AC cycles throughout the night. About halfway through the night ours would rarely come on except once or twice before the morning (as the outdoor temp already dropped and there was no further need for cooling). Try this out: www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html Our AC (even after inverter inefficiency losses) draws almost exactly 50 amps at 12v. Then the only variable left to input is the run time (load duration). In the dark, the sun won't be baking you inside your van which is essentially a solar oven, so a good average might be 25% cycling (15 minutes run time every hour). So if you're calculating 10 hours of AC at 25% cycling, that would be a cumulative run time of 150 minutes. (2.5 hours) (You can run it much longer if you want to drop below that discharge level, but the higher the depth of discharge (DoD), the more you take away from your batteries usable life)
I should also mention a HUGE determining factor is how much air you're cooling. Our van is so small with the low roof and large cabinets / raised bed that there's very few cubic feet of air to cool. A large Sprinter / Transit / Promaster will easily double / triple the amount of air to cool. Just food for thought and thinking out loud on that! Hope that helps! Thanks for watching Tyler!
Love the stealth grill look. If you did it again would you put the air conditioner higher or would you just duct the cold air higher off the unit so it would naturally drop? Also would you or do u recover the water from the air conditioner?
Hey Shane, if my van more were square and didn't have windows all around the upper half I would probably mount it higher. The glass windows surrounding the entire perimeter of the van made that tough. Even if it were a cargo model though, the GM vans have a very "rounded" interior (where the ceiling is much more narrow than the floor) This would make the AC unit protrude way out into the living space unfortunately. I think I would floor mount it again and duct it higher in this particular set-up if I were to do it again. I don't recover any of the water from the condensation, it just drips to the ground outside. There is a huge 75 gallon (284 liter) water tank under the bed, so we don't worry too much about our water levels. Thanks for watching!!
That's a good question and here's a good article on the subject: rvnerds.com/2017/08/07/electrical-myths-part-3-mixing-batteries-different-agescapacities/ Here's a quick excerpt: Let’s suppose you have 3 different 12V batteries, wired in parallel to supply 12V power to your RV. They can have different capacities on account of size or age, but the same chemistry (e.g. all flooded lead acid or all AGM). Before you start charging, the voltage across each of them is the same-even if one is fully charged and the others aren’t. Charge will flow from one battery to the other two until they’re balanced. With a lead acid battery bank, the internal resistances are limiting to a point that you don’t have to worry about arcing or your battery cables overheating when you connect them (not the case with lithium-ion banks…). Hope that shines a little light on the subject. You'll find a lot of conflicting articles out there and "armchair experts" Battery science is truly a deep rabbit hole to dive into. But for the sake of van conversions, it seems to work great for us even after 1.5 years. -Tim
@@VanwithTim thank you so much for the information man!! That helps me big-time for the future when I add to my setup. because I have a 180ah 12v Battery that I made from purchasing chinese lithium cells. But i wanted to add maybe a 100ah cell.pack.in the future to it. I was worried that wouldn't work
@@owenbell2572 I plan to go the Lithium route myself once these AGMs finally die out. Have lots of research to do myself! They're really changing the game for sure.
You’re right, but if we ran it all night we would be below freezing inside. (It's only 250cuft of airspace in the vans living area - the average small bedroom is 1,100cuft) About halfway through the night ours would rarely come on except once or twice before the morning (as the outdoor temp already dropped and there was no further need for cooling). In the dark, the sun won't be baking you inside the solar oven that is the van, so a good average after dark might be 25% cycling (15 minutes run time every hour). So, if you're calculating 10 hours of AC at 25% cycling, that would be a cumulative run time of 150 minutes. (2.5 hours) Of course, this all depends on your outdoor night temperatures. We don’t stay in Phoenix or Vegas during the summer as it’s 120F in the day and 100F at night… The van has wheels for a reason! Our AC (even after inverter inefficiency losses) draws almost exactly 50 amps at 12v. 50 amps * 2.5 hours = 125 amp hours To calculate the usable amp hours, you must decide what depth of discharge (DoD) level you’re comfortable with. Is it 50%? 75%? Or do you go all out and run your batteries to 100% discharge, not caring about the usable life? Will for sure make a video of the daytime / night time cooling along with battery levels and indoor / outdoor temps once it warms up for a test!
Hope you don’t mind me asking an off topic question. What did you do about the air bags on your build. Assume your year van came with the curtain airbags like I have. Thanks in advance
Thanks Tim, this was by far and away the most informative video in a sea of vanfluencers and shills, like so many resorting to vans either through desire or necessity I just don't have thousands to spend so appreciate your ingenuity and candid honesty.
Always wanted to know how to survive intense heat living in van life. This is for my precious dog. There’s barely any videos on this. Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏼❤️
What a nice clean build! The a/c exhaust grate on the side of the van looks amazing and like factory.
Thank you! I figure it’s about as stealthy as one can be while still having a functional solar / battery run AC unit!
I have my AC in the rear window of my Astro Van. I call the Van the Ice Box lol
TH-cam sight..I would like to see your setup
Tony what year is your van? Do you have pictures on IG or somewhere? I'd also like to see your setup.
@@Suleeto 1990 AWD ,I love that Van. I bought it with for 900 and took a chance came with solar and everything 2,000 watt inverter but I had the differentials rebuilt new tires new shocks so I went through it so I have about 3,000 in it I've been to Arizona from California about three or four times air works amazing it never has let me down and I'm very happy with it
@@astrovantony9551 do you have instagram?
@@Suleeto
Yes Astrovan_Tony
You can get your windows tinted with the nano ceramic coating. It does a great job of blocking some of the effects of solar rays
Thanks J.G. I'll definitely be getting them tinted.
Just need to find unbiased scientific testing between all the different types out there.
(I keep hearing ceramic is king!)
Will have to do some research this spring!
You can also get a clear tint for the windshield
@@chadmutchler5062 I was just looking at that yesterday actually!
Thanks Chad!
@@chadmutchler5062 I'm planning on driving across Asia so that sounds just what I need. What should I search for pls Chad?
I'm in the UK at the moment.
@@VanwithTim Be careful with the windshield tint if you wear polarised glasses as with most brands you will see the "polarising" streaks while wearing the sunnies. No so important with side windows but you want your windscreen clear
I am not an electronics wizard by any stretch. You are the expert here. Most of what you talk about 99 per cent of us may not understand. But....... I have watched so many videos on TH-cam about building a conversion van. Many are professionally done by experts, like Humble Road. You and he could have a meaningful conversation on wiring techniques. So in my humble, novice opinion, it would be to your benefit in the long run to change out all your batteries to lithium. Twice as efficient and half the weight. And change out your inverter to Xantrex. Practically every decent conversion, where the owner has the funds, use this brand, because it is one of the best. If you already know all this, please forget I ever mentioned it. I wish I had half your knowledge on wiring systems. It would make watching videos like this more pleasant. I like your choice of vehicles. The Express 4x4 is so much better than any Ford 2- wheel drive. Happy motoring sir.
Thank you kindly. Is there any place/link/text of your current heat and ventilation setup/opinion (& what not to do). I'm unsure from the videos and the playlist watched at the moment.
I really appreciate this whole video. You answered all of my questions. I think part of the benefit of your strategy is that you've got a nice, big air intake and you're pulling from the shade. Smart.
I'm prepping for my van conversion a year from now and the heat is the biggest issue. I was about to give up and just spend the $2500 for a good rv AC, but even that's going to pull a lot of power. Makes more sense to spend less on the AC and save the roof space for more solar.
But I guess the best offense is a great defense so the first thing I have to do is get rid of as many windows as I can. Insulate, insulate, *insulate*.
Most definitely throw your money at insulation!
If I were to do it again, I would insulate with way more foam board and invest in IR blocking tint.
I would also upgrade to an 8,000 BTU *Inverter* style AC unit (variable speed compressor).
I also wish I had left room for a roof top fan, but the solar is really nice (and necessary) for AC.
Sick set up! I'm impressed, I need something like this for my Florida set up.
I'm a bit impressed with your telling like it is and giving realistic figures. Stranded wire is called boat cable and your right it is better.
Doesn't get any better than Sun power solar panels. Awesome job
Nice job.... Cool to see you are using agm batteries. Not everyone can afford Lithium and you've got a mixture of brands. I think that's cool. I can't afford like $2000 for a battery bank. Also the AC unit @ $200 is affordable. Thank you for posting!!!
thanks for the tour of your ac and electrical system. this is something that i could probably try as I, too, don't have thousands of dollars to spend
The fact that people can dislike a video this efficient like this actually pisses me off to no end...
New subscriber here, this video is supremely awesome and so so so inspiring!!
However, please, I need your help!! I desperately need to know four main things regarding your panels, along with a few details that pertain to each respectively:
1.) What's your take on Renogy panels versus Sunpower panels in terms of efficiency as well as price (if you have any personal experience with Renogy panels)?
2.) Where did you buy these 320w Sunpower solar panels!?!? Directly from their site??
3.) What are the full dimensions of your panels?? You had mentioned 60 inches wide, but 60 by what? Your van looks like it has the closest dimensions to my truck that I have seen on TH-cam so far. I am trying to mount as many panels on top of my 1994 GMC Suburban 1500 (XL) as I can, as well as with the maximum watt rating I can get, and after taking measurements I figure I can only fit five 100w panels up there (Renogy 40x21 panels) comfortably / stealthily; or 6 of them if I forwent stealth, but even with 600w it just wont be enough. That is with not removing the OEM bike rack mount that the vehicle shipped with, as I had originally planned to use the rack to mount the panels, to avoid having to cut holes as I have little access to power tools right now, but I am highly considering finding a way to use tools and just do it without the bike rack after having watched your video.
4.) What did you use to mount the panels on the roof?? I see the stealthy / sneaky aluminum shielding on the sides to make it less obvious that they're up there and I love it, but is that aforementioned shielding just to cover them up are are they actually mounted to it?? But I also see that you somehow managed to create a gap inbetween the panels and the actual roof for ventilation so they don't overheat; how did you manage to make this gap?? And what were the power tools you used to make holes in your roof / how did you make them totally water and erosion proof??
Sorry to bombard you with questions, but I am in a bad spot right now after having lost my rental as well as job to COVID layoffs a few months back and I am working on getting new work; also 90% of the videos I find on here are people spending thousands on even just the AC for their van, not to mention their vehicles all look to be very different in size from mine. Yours is the closest I have found to the same general looking dimensions as mine, as well as a good looking blend of affordability, so your input is worth its weight in gold!!
Thank you so much man in advance for any insights you can help me with!!!
Thanks for checking it out! Let’s knock out these questions:
1) For solar brands / efficiency / price.
Check out this portion of my van regret video: th-cam.com/video/opOaJkHXDSg/w-d-xo.html
Basically so long as they’re not the flexible stick on panels, you’ll be fine in terms of efficiency and quality (They’re all pretty close). However I would NOT purchase your panels online. The price is double, triple, and even quadruple what you’d pay purchasing locally.
Check Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist for panels locally and save some $$
2) Where did I source my panels.
I found them on Facebook marketplace about an hour away from me at the time of the van build.
I just kept searching around for something close to my roof width. These were a few inches over my ideal size but managed to work. There are TONS of solar panels for sale in Southern California, but I also found a lot while building a van in Michigan as well.
I wouldn’t get stuck on brand with the panels, just search out Monocrystalline panels to land somewhere in the top of the solar efficiency range. But even the standard Polycrystalinline panels are very close in efficiency.
3) Solar panel dimensions.
Again I just kind of searched around for the closest dimensions I could find in the used panel market. (These ran me $100 each) These specific panels measure 31.42” x 61.39”
Here’s the spec sheet: www.energymatters.com.au/images/sunpower/spwr_230wh_com_en_a4.pdf
4) Details on panel mounting?
You mentioned having an OEM roof mount, that would be ideal. My mount is extremely functional & rugged but pretty ugly. I actually only had one final day before moving out of my house to get things buttoned up and couldn’t think of anything better / more budget friendly at the time…
The front and back panels have metal L brackets holding them to the roof. (The front bracket bolts into an internal roof beam, the back is just screwed into the sheet metal)
I painted both brackets white before mounting for rust proofing, then used tons of white silicone for water proofing.
The sides are fully held by the bent steel panels. I just cut the pieces from a 2’x4’ panel I picked up from Home Depot. Kind of sloppy but it worked. Those are just held in by a plethora of stainless self-tapping screws. (I painted the panels before mounting for rust proofing).
I mentioned it being a rushed process: the panels are just sitting directly on the roof. If you removed all the mounting, they would remain in the exact same spots via gravity. The air gap was a nice bonus, but not by my own doing. (The curvature of the roof created the gap along the sides)
I do wish I had more of a gap for cooling, or simply installed some fan powered ventilation to the bottoms of the panels. It’s not a huge drop in efficiency, but I know it can’t be good for the panels to get so warm.
I have a few pictures of this setup here: instagram.com/p/B-4q8MqFnDw/
(swipe through the pictures for the detailed shots)
Final thoughts:
My panels total 920w (I misspoke in the video saying 320w ea. Actually 230w ea)
After conversion losses and such, I typically max out around 700w. This is pretty normal on solar. So plan on only getting around 75% of the rated output.
The 6k BTU AC unit only does okay, not great. The issue I have is the number of windows in the van. I know your Suburban is also a giant solar oven. With an upgrade to infrared blocking ceramic tint I’m sure we would both do fantastic, but that tint runs $600 - $800.
For now we have home-made insulated window covers which help immensely.
More than anything try to stay positive! I’m sure you’re incredibly stressed. Just try to do one productive thing each day, even if it’s small. Otherwise you’ll start feeling stuck. (That’s a tough rut to get out of).
Let me know if you have any other questions! Happy to help!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Thank you so much for taking the time to give such a detail response, dude!!! You are a well of knowledge, and this helps sooo much!!
@@VanwithTim 100% going to spread your channel in every single corner of the internet that I think it might attract interest!!!!
@@notumoverflow5916 thanks for spreading the channel!
Keep us updated on your build, and of course let me know if I can provide any insight 👍
I’ve seen some brilliant builds in much smaller vehicles than your Suburban. Just have to stay clever and always think outside the box! Bright side is you have much less air-space to cool than some of those giant high-top vans!
Most amazing thing I’ve seen since I’ve started van living in nyc. I don’t need it bc I’m not bob wells, I like actual city life w o the rent costs
Thanks Michael.
Still torn between rural living and city living. Both have their appeal.
I'm no stranger to street parking or the countless Walmart / casino / apartment parking lots haha.
TH-cam makes it look like it's all glamor in the great outdoors. The reality is spending lots of time on Google, scouting different spots for an undisturbed overnight rest.
@@VanwithTim I haven’t ever parked in a parking yet, nor a underground spot to escape a storm or hot weather. Not torn at all. I don’t like bugs, I don’t like cleaning up after people, don’t like camp smoke and I can’t b best in the world in the middle of nowhere. U will c when we meet. Go b u, I’m just as happy. I only need to move once a week and I’m back an hour later. Everyone knows what I’m doing, some check on me, some r new pals and as soon as everyone gets their shots, looking forward to making more friends. Good luck buddy.
@@VanwithTim up your intuition Tim. OK so I got it wrong in Amsterdam and had to try again but ended up with a beaut of a spot for three days and only 200yrds to the metro. WINNING
@@jupiteradventure5284 There's definitely been some spots I'm okay sleeping but the girlfriend says no to lol (Maybe she watches too many serial killer movies haha)
Living in Australia, not having AC is the number one reason I've dreamt about putting together a van camper to travel around a bit but never seriously considered it so i found this very interesting. Thank you! The southern half of Australia can get cold on certain clear nights in winter on the odd occasion (0 to -3 centigrade) so heating isn't really an issue but EVERYWHERE gets in the high 30's to mid-high 40's range in summer. The thought of trying to sleep through a 33 degree centigrade night in a van makes my skin crawl. Especially on those nights where the breeze is hotter than the ambient temperature because its blown off the desert 1000 km away lol
Oh man. It's one thing being hot inside a house, but when you're trapped inside a metal box cooking in the sun that's a whole new level of physical and psychological torture.
You made mention of the ceramic tint in the other comment. Do you have it installed? Does it seem to really make a huge difference?
Still a bit sticker shocked on what I've been reading online for pricing!
@@VanwithTim No i dont have it installed as my prescription sunglasses are polarised. The place where i took my car for tinting did sell the clear ceramic film for windscreens but told me theirs would react to my polarised sunglasses (making rainbow colours and stress marks visible). They did mention that not all do but the brand they use did. I do remember though that they told me it would reduce the heat getting through the windscreen by the same amount as 20% tint does. Great Channel man, I've subbed.
I've crunched the numbers to get AC (no roof-mount units) in my Van here in Australia: $2800. Now, going the DiY route, Anything under 2.4kw locally is garbage.
Buying a small 120v unit like yours and a US Inverter, imported to Australia, I'll get change from $1000.
Great video mate !
That's bonkers. Glad it helped out!!!
If your interested, I'm just trying the same thing Guys. I've managed to find a heat pump unit - with a duct pipe outlet - I'm planning on ducting it fore and aft of my build. Plus of course it will heat very very efficiently in the cold weather.. oh, and so far it's cost me just over £320
@@jupiteradventure5284 I hear heat pumps are more common across the Atlantic than in the US. So sad as it's such a simple principle and typically the most efficient form of electric heat!
Sounds like a sweet build!
everything you're doing with that van is exactly what i've had in mind that I wanna do, except i'm just too lazy...... Good choice on the solar panels. Most people don't realize the flexible ones are just horrible.
Thanks!
Let's just say there was a LOT of caffeine and sleep deprivation that went into this build haha.
Quit the job, sold the house, bought this van, and hit the road in just over a month's time.
My body HATED me the following two months lol.
Cheers!
-Tim
Really nice setup! You really can't overbuild your solar system, but underbuilding will leave you baking in the dark looking sad
Hell yes! I am NEXT. Thanks for a practical how to video!!
Glad it helped!! Stay cool!
Nice setup man. Good job. Keep that David Koresh look. It works.
please join my cult
🙏
@@VanwithTim Well shit *****, that all you had to say!
Really impressive. Thanks for sharing. I am converting a 2019 Chevy Express LT Extended now, so what you have done is particularly relevant.
Very nice.
Love seeing more Express vans being converted to campers!
The Sprinters / Transits / Promasters all make fine campervans, but there's just something perfectly quirky and slightly more bad-ass about the domestic V8 RWD platforms.
Cheers!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim They're probably also easier to drive, particularly at highway speeds and in somewhat windy conditions. (I'm referring of course to the domestic V8 RWD vans). I used to own an old Roadtrek (Dodge). That thing was ALL OVER THE ROAD at speeds over 45mph...drift drift, squirrely, white-knuckle driving. I adored that van as a living space but had to get rid of it because I had put THOUSANDS of dollars into every facet related to drivability, and nothing helped. (I'm sure my anxiety as a driver factored in because the guy who bought it from me says he feels what I'm talking about but just keeps reassuring himself that he's not going to blow off the road even though it feels like he will.) Anyway...I'm currently in the market for a van to convert and am terrified of any of the high-roof vans for the above reasons, and that includes the nice high-top Chevy Express conversion vans. Sorry, I just rambled too much. Love your content and those who contribute via comments are also very helpful! Cheers to all!
Dude... extremely cool.
I hope I can do the same setup as well...
The down side is for this to work you have to park in the direct sun. So, the very thing you're fighting is at it's worst.
A mobile solar array would definitely be the best option!
@@VanwithTim Yes, but that defeats the versatility/agility a van, without trailer, gives you. Considering the amount of solar you have on the van, that translates to a fairly large trailer, unless it can be collapse it into something smaller, while traveling. There is a Tesla prototype for such a trailer, but I don't know how much solar (watts) it carries.
@@VanwithTimI find it exhausting to try to live in a hot climate..van life .much easier to heat up a cold space.
That's an awesome job, I saw your other video when you build the whole ac unit set up, great information. I should use some plastic flexible tubes on the vent of the ac to get the flow of the cold air up but besides that is one of the best jobs I've seen so far.
this is the setup I've been looking for
Thanks for making this! I've got 500w solar and 300ah of lithium. Hopefully enough solar to keep it running more than a couple hours like people are suggesting.. I don't see why it couldn't especially after seeing this.
I think I'll add a couple more panels eventually too if I don't need a roof ac!
Thank you for showing us your setup!
Another good option to consider are the Mini Split AC units.
I've seen a lot of those in the bus setups! Fantastic units. A little too big to fit in our small van though.
Thanks its hard to get simple answers without a lot of technical knowledge the question would be can the major appliances run all night on a battery bank?then how big of a battery pack? Then can it run on solar panels alone, how many panels?those are simple yes or no questions you have answered well. When I design my system I will use off the shelf house ac and refrigerator and microwave, I'm putting a lipo4 bank together when I get a few dollars ahead I buy another cell,so I will have a formidable house bank
It's certainly tough to give straight answers with so many variables, but hopefully it's inspired some ideas in the DIY conversion community!
I'm all for 12v appliances if you have an unlimited budget, but for me it just wasn't realistic.
Will probably be right behind you with a lithium setup though. Only concern is their max discharge rate.
I'll need them to handle up to 170a continuous discharge with my induction plate. I remember that was an issue a couple years back.
Perhaps it's since been resolved?
Thanks for watching Ronald
@@VanwithTim doing some internet research it seems like the discharge rate has been solved for lithium at least I think it's the initial surge of amps,to start electrical appliances that cause the problem. I plan using propane for heating water and cooking, with a small wood stove as backup
@@ronaldharris6569 Should be a sweet setup!
Glad to see the battery prices continuously dropping as well.
great multi functioning systems! i live at 9,000' and dont need airconditioning if i can park in the shade, but i want a fridge. ill have to rework my solar setup. its just a renogy starter kit. maybe add a couple more 100w pannels, and a good 100ah batt.
all im running is a fan, usb phone charging, and a 24" tv ill install in the spring. and bluray player. i guess ill add all that up and write renogy for a recommendation. surely i wont need more than one 100ah li batt, and 300w of solar panels. its so sunny in colorado. of course i dont want anymore than i need lol
Wow what are you using for heat up there? Diesel heater? Propane? Sounds chilly.
I've been pretty impressed with the fridge.
I know it's not meant to bounce around so much, but it hasn't missed a beat even while parked vacant for a week in the sun (nearly 175F / 80C inside temp).
Luckily the 3.1cuft fridge / freezer combos are available nationwide disguised under different brand names but with the exact same dimensions.
Once it eventually dies, I can swap in a new one for $160 and 10 minutes of time the same day.
Check Craigslist and FB Marketplace for solar panels! I've found them (brand new) much cheaper locally both in California and Michigan than I ever could have online.
@@VanwithTim i put rails on my roof (cargo trailer conversion, my second one) and the renogy compact 100w'ers fit great. i can probably fit 4 there. i cant imaging i need more than that, where i live!
ive got a relatively new dorm fridge, maybe a little smaller than yours. dont know. heck ya ill use that! like you said. i think its less than 100w.
im on my 5th heater, since my first trailer. wood is a major pain. catalytic is too wet. ive got a nuway vented propane now. working great! theyre built for ice shantys.
@@d-arts7139 yeah if you’re not running anything too wild I’m sure that would be plenty of solar!
I just installed one of those sketchy Chinese diesel heaters and seems to work alright. Tossed in three CO detectors to be “safe” lol
Propane is definitely top of the line. Glad you’re staying warm up there 👌
@@VanwithTim I just saw where people have to take apart those heaters for cleaning and maintenance. I don’t want to maintain anything! I’m lazy. I even thought about the German one, or others, but some are intensive to get going. This one takes up space but is great heat. I’m also camping a lot at 11,000’ and it takes serious output up that high. So, 5th time is a charm I guess
yeah my guy, i know all about heat lol. i did the nomad thing in Florida for a stint. and the heat is ferocious to say the least haha. nice set up
85F in Florida feels a lot like 120F in Arizona haha. That humidity is just killer...
Very, very cool! Great work!
I know this vid is almost a year old, but for the problem with heat coming in your windows you should have them ceramic tinted. It really makes a world of difference. Id also strongly suggest having your windshield done, most heat comes in through there as its the biggest piece of glass on a van. Theres 70% film thats pretty much clear so police dont pull you over, or you could go 35% or 50% for extra privacy, 5% on all the rear ones though.
You’re spot on. I’ve been eyeing the IR ceramic tint for a while now but have been delaying it due to the cost ($600-$800)
Everything I’m reading also suggests the windshield as it’s the largest piece of glass in the vehicle.
I know I need to set a week aside and make some before and after tint testing videos!
Nice install super stealth.
I would go with 24 volts for high power draw, 12 volts can have issue with start up load, heating wires and efficiency loss. One large battery can have issues with 600watts because the voltage can drop below the cut out voltage on the inverter.
I was really torn between 12v and 24v for those exact reasons.
Luckily I had a great source for free wire, so doubling the size wasn't detrimental to the budget..
I also run the 1,440w electric water heater while driving, and the 145a alternator wouldn't be able to squeeze that much juice through a cheap DC to DC converter.
You're spot on with those initial power draw issues. I see a lot of lithium battery users having real problems with high current appliances. Upping the voltage cuts the amperage draw in half, solving that issue for them.
Cheers!
-Tim
There are 12 volt AC's out there. Cruise en comfort has 12 volt one for trucks and it comes with a duct that you put as close to the ceiling as possible. That is another possible option? But great job on making the Toshiba unit work.
12v would be a bit more efficient too!
(No power lost to the inverter)
Thanks for watching!
Awesome setup! I have a video too on this but yours is far superior. Mine only cools (under my covers) and could never cool down my whole van because I have a wimpy system. Awesome job and hope you get a million views! Maybe reflectix on the outside of the windows? Again.. just spreading the love...
N8 Nomad.
N8 Nomad thank you! Your setup works out nicely! I actually just finished a Promaster build for someone and talked about ducting through the door like that, but he ultimately went with an expensive (and power hungry) rooftop AC.
I made some magnetic window covers with felt and reflectix inside but might stuff some Thinsulate in them as well. They make a good amount of different so far but could improve! Always learning!
Van with Tim - That’s the Key... always learning. And.. always tinkering. It’s my FOREVER project. (Pssst hope the comments speed things up). 😉
N8 Nomad bro I just watched you too!! And loved your video 😭 you guys are creative, very very great ideas fellas. When I build mine I will be sure to credit you as much as I can, always love !
Super clean!!! Nice work
That is one sweet van dude !!!!!!
My 1965 Airstream Globetrotter has all original antique Romex, so I’m pretty sure telling people they have to use stranded is more marketing than fact. It the Airstream the Romex is just run between the aluminum panels and they are not fastened to anythin, but it’s not 14 gauge, more like 10 or 12 with something like a single 16 ground, maybe even 18. The little ground wire on 1965 Romex, lol.
I would like to see maybe 2 more instances of plumbers tape on that battery, tightly held down, and a larger piece of wood to keep it secured, possibly 4, it should be able to hold it if it's upside down
Absolutely. The batteries and the 620lb water tank are what really scare me in the event of a roll-over.
Has worked fine for heavy off-roading (and the rare panic stop).
Of course that's nothing compared to flying through the air and turning upside down.
Wish I had taken up welding to make some REAL secure mounting points.
A good project in the future.
-Tim
Best design iv seen
Thank you 🙏
I like your van set-up
Very well explained Thank you!
Thank you Laura, let me know if you have any questions!
You should add a desk fan to run along with the AC so that the AC won't work so hard and consume less energy as a whole
I've actually since added three desktop USB fans to the ceiling (only 3.3 watts each) and it made a huge difference!
@@VanwithTim By chance, do you have a link to those fans? I watched your video with immense interest, finding it nearly impossible to believe that you can run a 6k BTU AC unit ALL DAY on battery/solar power. I've watched the video three times and I'm still shocked and finding it implausible. But I'm currently in the market for a new (to me) used van, and am appreciating all of your videos immensely. I hope life is treating you well since your vanlife days. Thanks for all the great content.
thank you so much for showing us!
Nice video. Fyi I so knew David Koresh was still alive!!
Have 97 extended econoline with 400 ah AGM running 5k btu a/c 6 - 8 hrs in S.E. Tx Summer . walls & floor is r R5 . Ceiling R8 . Windows R7 . Cab division is R5+ .
Any pics of videos? Sounds really well done! SE Texas is truly brutal especially with the humidity.
The A/C unit could be installed higher or air flow is channeled to blow at the ceiling level for better cooling performance
For sure. Mine has windows all around though so no way to exhaust the condenser heat unless out through the pop-out side window.
Will have to duct the cool air up higher in my next re-config!
I don’t think it’s wise to put heavy stuff higher in a van, because the center of gravity. The van will roll over easily.
Just installed ducting to the AC unit. Should have done it sooner.
th-cam.com/video/wq_KdOZR2R0/w-d-xo.html
Have you thought of peltier plates? 12V (no step up voltage) and no moving parts. Much more efficient than compressor. Less draw means less need to generate power.
Thanks for the idea . Genius !
Content trumps glytz...u HAV content! 👀😬👌 👍
Need to see more of your camera operator.
She's a bit easier on the eyes!
@@VanwithTim
Well, you can always wear a bikini.. It might make it a bit easier on his eyes.
Top notch build
Interesting stuff! Nice build and I like your explanations. Electrics is probably my area of least expertise and experience and so many options and opinions it gets confusing which is the best way to go. Here in Eastern Canada the sun is so infrequent and weak for most of the year that I’m not confident that solar is going to be the best/most cost effective way to go. I’m thinking DC to Dc charger to go with my 2000w inverter and then figure out a couple of batteries for it. Then something like a Jackery for back up? Not likely to need a/c but would really like a small fridge/freezer like yours. Thanks for the vid - have subbed and will take a look through your others. 👍🏻
Thanks for checking it out!
I know solar is a bit tougher to catch in the north. (Originally from Michigan and it's pretty bad there even.) These 120v fridge / freezer combos draw between 70 - 100 watts so that setup would be plenty for it!
Cheers!
-Tim
Thanks! I checked out that type of fridge/freezer combo and there seems to be a few on the market to choose from and, as you say, you could go through three or four of them before you got close to the price of a specialist unit. Is there a formula for working out the size of batteries to go for? My inverter is recommended to have two running with it and my budget would dictate AGM but I don’t want to be under powered or trying to charge more than I need. Other than charging laptop etc I would mainly be looking at the fridge and one of those induction cooktops for indoor cooking and a few LED lights. I have a propane heater at the moment but might look at a diesel one which I know uses a small amount of electricity as well. Cheers!
@@MapleMarmite The real killer will be the induction cooktop. We have one as well (1800w) In other words, it's equal to running 10+ refrigerators at once while cooking.
Our 360AH AGM setup works well for pretty much the same thing although you may have to run the engine a bit more often to re-charge (as solar is less plentiful there)
Also they said you are supposed to separate the air outtake - from the hot center and the cool sides.
Sylvia Justice yes, there are two “sides” of the AC unit. The inside (climate controlled) side, and the outside. The outside needs to suck outdoor air through the sides and top of the unit then push that air through the condenser (cooling the freon). This Freon then goes to the “inside” (climate controlled) side of the unit. It flows the cold Freon through the evaporator core. A second fan pulls the “inside” air through this cold evaporator core and pushes out the ice cold air into the van. The Freon then moves through the compressor and back to the outside condenser to be cooled and the cycle restarts!
Sylvia Justice check out this video for a good illustration!
th-cam.com/video/6OU7WHgJ_cY/w-d-xo.html
How does it work on a hot night? Does it run continuous? Mine usually runs 10 min on and 20 off so it's 2/6 the hour rate really, on regular summer nights. Can you run on low or high? How many watts is it pulling per hour if not continuous so not watt hours, unless you're dividing it by time, if you know what i mean. Does alternator produce enough to run it and does van have built in AC? Can you use it half the night, run van to recharge for an hour and run rest of night? Do you stay about 50% for AGM? Would you like lithium? Would having a second level of panels that slide out like an awning help? Or some internal panels you can place outside when needed?
These are the important questions!!
Thank you for bringing it up. (I do have plans for a fantastic timelapse of battery voltage, along with interior / exterior temps coming this summer!)
For now:
⚫ Hot night usage?
It seems to work okay at night, but we haven’t tested it on a HOT night (like the 105F summer nights of Phoenix) I suspect the batteries would end up struggling towards the end.
⚫ Compressor cycle times at night?
If I recall (been a while now!) ours started around 15 minutes on, 7 minutes off (so 41 mins run time per hour) but that very quickly tapered down to maybe 10 minutes on, 30 minutes off (so around 15 minutes run time per hour) then eventually just not needing to run anymore as the cool outside air finally cools the inside.
⚫Run on low or high?
I’ll have to re-measure the low speed fan power draw, but I recall it using VERY CLOSE to the same power as high speed. It was such a small difference, I just always left it on high!
⚫ Average watts USED per hour?
I finally measured my ACTUAL usage instead of going off the sticker. So, with the inverter inefficiency included, it was only around 510 watts (high fan speed: 106 watts + 404 watts compressor running).
So three examples of high speed with compressor running (depending on compressor on/off time)
On all hour: 510 watt/hr (40.5 AH @ 12.6v)
Compressor & fan on 41 minutes, “fan only” on 19 minutes: 382 watt/hr (30.3 AH @ 12.6v)
Compressor & fan on 15 minutes, “fan only” on 45 minutes: 207 watt/hr (16.4AH @ 12.6v)
⚫ AC “Eco Mode”
I need to mention the unit is often in “eco mode” which only runs the fan while the compressor is running (instead of running the fan 24/7 at 106 watts)
So my above calculation would actually be:
Compressor & fan on 41 minutes, 19 minutes off: 349 watt/hr (27.7 AH @ 12.6v)
Compressor & fan on 15 minutes, 45 minutes off: 128 watt/hr (10.2 AH @ 12.6v)
⚫ Alternator output?
It’s a 145a alternator (so around 2,000 watts at 3.5k RPM)
At idle it outputs around 1,000 watts so no problem running the electric AC
The van also has factory AC, but I deleted the rear portion. (The 6.0L V8 uses nearly ½ gallon of fuel per hour just idling. Very expensive)
⚫ Run van for half night to recharge?
You could run the van, but at idle (with the AC unit running), it would only charge around 35 amps and the other 40 amps would be running the AC.
⚫Stay around 50% state-of-charge on AGM?
This is where I make people mad… I run my batteries DOWN.
Before finally getting my diesel heater, I used an electric blanket AND a 1,000 watt space heater through the night.
I would constantly bring them down to 11v.
I absolutely took a huge chunk out of their serviceable life.
With my completely careless mindset, I never had any issue with the AC running throughout the night. The solar would come back in the AM, we’d go exploring (simultaneously letting the alternator re-charge the batteries), then do it all over again.
⚫Opinions on lithium?
I do think I’ll end up going lithium once these AGMs finally bite the dust.
Two things I’m weary about with lithium:
1) Temperature: hey HATE the cold. You really need to install a temperature controlled electric heating pad around them or they just won’t work - charging or discharging from my understanding.
2) Max discharge rate: I run an 1,800-watt induction plate and a 1,440-watt water heater. (143 amps and 115 amps of constant prolonged discharge on the battery bank) The AGM’s have no problem with this, however the lithium’s usually don’t tolerate such high amperage draws.
I really need to do a bit more research when the time comes. There may be new developments in the lithium technology by then!
⚫Extra solar panels?
Sliding a second row of panels out is a pretty cool idea! But if I were to do it again, I would just add a tilting mechanism to my current panels. That would REALLY increase the daily solar output if you could keep them pointed at the sun. (There are some videos out on this!)
I don’t think I’d carry extra panels with me personally. I hate having to set up and tear down. I also do a good amount of off roading and would be worried about breaking a huge extra set of solar panels hanging around inside.
Thanks a ton for the really great questions!
Let me know what I can help clarify!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Wow great reply! I'm from Canada and canbat.com sells heated lithium batteries. I just checked battle born and they also have them. I guess they're getting more common. I'm thinking of going with a 48v system because I plan to eventually transfer it to an off grid cabin or just use additional external panels. With 48v your inverter doesn't draw as much amps so the 1800w induction would be only 38 amps! Plus it's cheaper for wiring and inverters and everything. But I plan to use an all in one box. Must see video about 48v all in one if interested. th-cam.com/video/ikDLxnf1ePQ/w-d-xo.html Anyways, thanks for all the info, much appreciated.
@@domalash Oh nice! Glad to see they're coming heated now!
Good call with the 48v!
Great way to save on wiring costs.
Let me know if there's any other insight I can provide!
Cool. Literally. Why not use the van's A/C? have an electric motor drive it off the house battery?
Please say more.
Maybe you have to open the window equipment like for the batteries and your chargers because they get hot
nice hairstyle dude!
impressive!!!
Hey Tim, can you expand on how you attached your panels to the top of your van? It looks like the panels sit directly on top of the van and that you’ve got your panels bolted primarily along the sides. I see that you have a piece of angle iron on your front panel holding it down, did you do that for all four panels? I’m assuming yes due to the wind when driving. For the solid sheet metal (if that’s what it is) along the sides, how did you attach that to the van? I see the bolts connecting the metal to the panels but I don’t see where the sheet metal connects to the van.
I’m building out a 95 Ford e150 right now and, after watching your videos, I’m gonna install a window ac unit as well. I bought 3 solaria 365 watt panels and they overhang my van just like yours do and I’m trying to figure out how to mount them to the top. I’d like to have some space between the panel and the roof of the van for heat and efficiency purposes. But I also want it to be sturdy and rock solid when driving down the road. Big fan of your work and all the videos you’ve posted and I appreciate your help.
Hi Chris, you’re pretty much spot on!
I started by simply setting the front panel on the roof and centering it. Then aligned it with an internal roof cross-member and bolted the L-bracket down to that roof cross-member.
The only other L-bracket is at the back of the rear-most panel. It doesn’t align with a cross-member, so it’s simply held with a handful of stainless self-tapping screws and a huge gob of white silicone.
Then the sides were just a straight piece of sheet metal cut into strips. I began by screwing the strips into the drain rail of the roof, then I bent the sheet metal upward and screwed into the solar panels about every eight inches. (I used 1” stainless self tapping screws, although you may need longer depending on your drain rail thickness!)
So far no issues (~35,000 miles). I check the fasteners from time to time but have yet to have any loosen.
Obviously make sure to paint all sides of the brackets and sheet metal before installing or you’ll have a rusty mess within a year!
I’ve been very surprised by the rigidity of the solar array. We spend a lot of time on some NASTY roads - paved and unpaved. I think the wind isn’t an issue because the roof becomes a bit of a “dead zone” (or even a vacuum) while driving. (At least the first couple inches above the roof.)
Those Solaria panels look NICE!! Do you think you’ll go with AGM or Lithium for the battery bank? I see the Lithium is coming down in price quite nicely.
Cheers!
-Tim
Hi Tim, thanks for your response. I appreciate that. That makes sense on what you did.
I bought two Lossigy 200ah lithium batteries back in November. And you’re definitely correct about the price of lithium going down. They’re about $80 bucks cheaper now than when I bought them. My plan is to live full time in my van for the next couple of years and AC is a must in the summer time. I’ll also have 3.1 cubic ft mini fridge along with a 12v water pump, diesel heater, puck lights, tankless water heater, etc. I’d like to think I have enough solar and a large enough battery bank to meet that. What do you think?
Due to the layout of my van I’m not able to mount my AC on the side like you did yours. My plan was to have it sitting in the floor in the garage area of the van. It’ll be fully contained like yours but I’d only be cutting one hole into the floor of the van. The problem with this, I’m assuming, is that fresh and hot air are going to be pulled and pushed through the same opening. Im hoping to accommodate for this by ensuring that the hole is large enough. Again, curious what your thoughts on that might be.
Thanks again for getting back to me. Enjoy your evening.
@@chrisstinson205 I would think your 400ah would be plenty, especially coupled with all that solar!
For reference on the AC check out this video: th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html
In a nut shell, with a perfectly insulated (R6.0) van on a sunny 83F day you can expect to use between 170ah - 200ah with the AC set at 70F. But that would be with NO WINDOWS and perfect insulation (no gaps).
Realistically, with my not-so-great insulation, it used 390ah and couldn’t maintain the 70F set point.
(In a perfect world, you could use the heat from the fridge and air conditioner condenser coils to heat your water!)
*********
Tankless heater will be run via propane? There’s also the style that uses the engine to heat the water then a 750W heating element to maintain the temperature (my dream water heater lol)
Our little 4 gal Bosch water heater does great and gives us enough water for two outdoor showers and dinner / dishes, but realistically the $180 2.5gal heater would have worked fine too amzn.to/354sIeD
*********
The 2KW diesel heater has been plenty warm for us and I’m glad we didn’t go with the 5kw. We have to sleep with windows open with the 2kw running on the lowest setting already!
*******
I’ve learned the window AC’s are pretty robust, and although it will draw a little more electricity with higher condenser air inlet temperatures, it will still cool just fine! I’ve seen your same configuration in a trailer build. Both intake and exhaust coming through the bottom.
A REALLY cool van build had the condenser air intake below the van, then ducted the hot condenser exhaust air up and out through the roof!
If you’re really handy with HVAC and refrigerants, I’ve seen another build with a window AC where he took out the entire condenser assembly and mounted it under the van with its own dedicated fan. No need for air ducting, just ran his two small compressor lines and fan electrical under the van.
Takes "thinking outside the box" to another level!
-Tim
Hey Tim, that’s an interesting video. I was pretty impressed with how well foam insulation boards perform.
For your panels, did you wire them in series or in parallel? And why?
I’m kinda shocked more people haven’t watched your 252 regrets video. I picked up sooo many tidbits of info from that. Crazy. Thanks again Tim.
@@chrisstinson205 Sorry for the late reply Chris! Funny you mention the solar wiring. I originally wired the back two in series and the front two in series, then ran them parallel to the MPPT charger. (So the four 41v panels came into the charger at 82v)
After some reading of various MPPT owners manuals (and two years) It's suggested to get your input and output voltages as close as possible (without exceeding the amperage rating of the controller or the wires of course)
I suppose it makes sense in theory as the voltage doesn't need to be dropped down as far, but realistically I saw no difference.
Hopefully that van regret video catches on in the coming years haha. I put way too many hours into it!!
Tim nice van I have the same van however it was already a RV a pleasureway I'd like to replace my noisy rooftop AC w/ a window type and aim the cool air downward w/ a vent. an seal the back half of the window unit to shoot the hot air outward. I'd also cover the top have you ever sean a road trek chevy van it has the window unit built into the rear of the high top. I'm wanting to imitate that however a unit the size of yours would stick up a couple inchs.Tim what do you think? I've sean a bunch of ppl w/ window units sticking out the rear window thats to ghetto for me.the inside of van is full w/ galley bathroom an closets so there's no room inside like the way yours is installed.thanks for any AC advice
Very cool.
And yes, most people say it's just impossible...
Amazing, what the total of you investment? To convert the van?
I want to covert my 2002 Chevy Tahoe, into a sleeper. Do you work?
@@Curazalenox The initial build you're seeing here was around $3,300 in parts, most recently I'm up to around $4,900.
(Van tour: th-cam.com/video/Dr3v3zLpeYQ/w-d-xo.html)
Left my job in 2019 and have just been keeping busy with fun side projects!
Thank you.
I wonder if A mini split. With mounted under outside, and mount the inside at the top.
I've seen a few versions of this setup! I think it works great if you have the room below and inside the cabin for the condenser and evaporator!
If the van were a bit bigger and I didn't have all the windows surrounding the upper half of the interior, this probably would have been my preferred route.
Wow Dude!!!You are a genious.👍
Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions
Put some reflects in your windows
WOW. That's a lot of solar.. but the problem with solar is you must in the hot sun. 300AH of Led acid batteries , realistically only gets you about 125AH of usable, which is only about 1500WH or 2.5 hours with that AC with nothing else running. What's the state of your batteries at 6am?
Question. What engine and alternator is in that van? Does your vans OEM automotive A/C blasting on high while parked in the shade cool the van in the back?
What's your opinion about running you van's Automotive A/C while parked? In my much smaller Ram Promaster city 4 cylinder I will occasionally just run van's OEM AC parked in the shade for an hour or two when i need to be inside during the day and right before going to bed. The AC on high will cool the back in 1 minute COLD. It's a debated argument, but seems mechanics consensus now is that in modern engines it's doing no harm and costing around $0.50/hour to run your AC while parked for an hour. Been doing it for a year and I just keep an eye on engine temp and coolant level .. anyways rarely do I want to be inside the van in the middle of the day for too long.
Been waiting to film a video to answer these (Lots of good questions I should have mentioned in the original video) but the weather hasn't allowed a good time-lapse test video yet.
The real tricky part is the AH ratings and how unrealistic they are. Of course you could run all 300AH out of the battery bank, but you've then dropped your voltage to nearly 10.5v (causing your batteries to take a huge hit in their usable life)
Lots of information and debates out there on the depth of discharge and battery cycle life. It seems the only general consensus is to try not to drain them past ~11.5v which as you pointed out, only gets you about half the "rated" AH.
Luckily most places we park are hot in the day but cool at night, so the AC cycles less and less until around 1am when there's no longer any excess heat to be removed.
(This is certainly NOT the case in places like Phoenix where the night temps stay in the high 90F's)
Our van has a 6.0L gas V8 and a 140amp alternator. It uses about 0.9 gallons per hour at idle (about $2.20 per hour of idle)
I actually just finished a 2017 Promaster build for a friend and it's a REALLY nice van to work with. Tons of space, and while it won't win any races, the 4cyl seemed pretty stout.
You're spot on about the modern engines. No harm in extended idling! I'd recommend blasting the van's AC for a couple minutes to "take the edge off" then use the window AC to maintain. (I know those Promasters put out some truly COLD air!)
Thanks for the great questions, and I'll update this comment once we get some warmer days to film a real world time lapse of the battery voltage, cabin temps, and exterior temperatures.
Happy travels! -Tim
I know it’s a year later but Viper car alarms make a model with a temperature control. Set the temp in programming and leave your car set with ac on full blast and the alarm will turn your car on when it gets too hot.
@@ebombglass I actually had one of those models back in 2009! Cool concept from a reputable company. I'm sure it's even more integrated now.
-Tim
@@ebombglass I saw a guy who rigged an old Chevy Cavalier with a house thermosat, so the engine would go on and off at different temperatures with the AC set (he just left the key turned and the AC set to max when he wanted it to auto-cool). Had to run wires into the engine, I'm not sure exactly how the rig worked, but it was pretty neat. Called the Cavacruiser if you want to look it up.
Nice built!
The link show 24 V inverter but you have 12V, same with solar panel?
And I have I trick to improve your comfort. If the widows are film remove it and put mirror, chrome, silver one instead.
Bloc the air entry on your AC and put a lateral air duct to suck hot air from the roof.
Oh boy. Good catch! Just updated the link.
The system is all 12v, but the panels are 41v I believe. Those run directly to a MPPT solar charge controller which steps the voltage down to a specified charging voltage. (I think I have mine set to around 13.5v)
I was actually just looking at adding the ceramic window tint, but it's very expensive.
I really like that idea of sucking the air out from under the solar. The panels get really hot in the summer and lose a lot of efficiency. Need to find a way to keep them ventilated and that's an interesting concept for it.
Thanks for the insight!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Window film at Home Depot "Gila, privacy control and Energy saving" are not over price like other. they have one layer mirror outside and black inside to cut reflectivity for clearer night view.
I just see your new video 20 févr. 2021. My comment come too late.
The duct idea was for your A/C air inside to improve effeciency and comfort.
But, for cooling the solar panel (improving efficiency and lifespan). Better to push fresh air between the roof and the panel than sucking it. The motor fan dont love heat too and I dont see a easy good installation.
If you have space put a inch or fews between each panels
If you need window film tips for installation. forgottingtree7@gmail.com
Other topic
Why stars flashing? Try with 100x camera and put out of focus.
I had many books of astronomy and science( the old ones, without correction).
I see the fakery (crookedness) of it.
Not on YT who is easy to modified, many sites are fake truth seekers, is hard to find the good one.
The big cheat ever. Hidden God from most people, by mind control and false sciences.
See: shaking my head productions:
Edward Bernays and Group Psychology: Manipulating the Masses,
The Universal Lie - Houston We Have A Problem!,
shaking my head productions 2:
666 Days In Space - The Devil Is In The Details.
Walter Veith:
twisting the ten commandments and
freemacon priesthood jesuit order
I was like you, before... I become awake (red pill).
The world his not what's you has been told.
Word of wisdom
Let no man deceive himself. If any man among you seemeth to be wise in this world, let him become a fool, that he may be wise. 1 Corinthians 3v18
The way of a fool is right in his own eyes: but he that hearkeneth unto counsel [is] wise.Proverbs 12:15
Even a fool, when he holdeth his peace, is counted wise: [and] he that shutteth his lips [is esteemed] a man of understanding.Proverbs 17:28
A fool hath no delight in understanding, but that his heart may discover itself.Proverbs 18:2
Seest thou a man wise in his own conceit? [there is] more hope of a fool than of him. Proverbs 26:12
God bless.
great job!
Amazing! I was planning to use a window AC in my van as well. Where does the water (if any) from the AC drain to?
Hey Michael, glad it helped!
I have a video that shows the “guts” of the system.
Basically it drains out through the air intake hole I made under the van.
th-cam.com/video/QK_zLDNW3X8/w-d-xo.html
i thought the air intake should be in the space you are cooling. That way you are extracting heat
That's actually super interesting as some higher-end models have an internal "door" to select between recirculating the interior air or utilizing the outside air. (Would love one!!!)
The outside air would work great when first trying battling the built up interior heat(120F+), but eventually you would want it in recirculate mode, that way it's only cooling the 70F interior air instead of the 90F exterior air.
Hope that makes sense!
-Tim
Is there anyway i can hack oem car ac using power bank battery with electric motor?
It would take a lot of custom fabrication but ANYTHING is possible if you have the skill and patience!
Here's an interesting article:
endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=73345
However, it seems the OEM car compressor will use up to 5HP (3.73KW) where this window AC uses only ~0.75HP (0.5KW).
killer system well done
hey, what about some window tint? highly reflective solar tinting. i asume you want to see out your windows, and not covert them with reflectix insulating stuff
I was just diving down that rabbit hole yesterday actually.
(So many sales gimmicks of "ceramic" "carbon" "extra security" etc. I've worked with corporate marketing teams in the past and it's disgusting how easily you can double the price of an economy product line. Simply market something about it that can't easily be proven or tested.)
I will end up doing tint at some point, just so much opinion based information out there makes it tough to find real unbiased research.
Sorry for the rant haha. You're spot on for sure.
@@VanwithTim yea, thats why i watch youtube! you know reflectix? not spelled that way. but you could make a few panels and push them in here or there, acording where youre sitting and not necessarily all windows. would help is the openings are the same. but hey, you have enough power its a mute point. maybe privacy, sun glare, or if your batts are down and need to run the air on low?
@@d-arts7139 my biggggg rear most side windows are actually lined with the Reflectix! Then I sewed together some magnetic felt window covers with reflectix sandwiched in between. It works REALLY well in both summer and winter!
But I know tiny on top of that would help a ton too
this is awesome! how long to the solar panels take to completely charge the ~300-350AH batteries and how long to the batteries run everything if the solar charging is turned off?
Thanks Roshaan, the solar outputs 55 amps (700w) at full sun. Without tilting panels, full sun is only achieved for around five hours a day. Before and after that it's a reduced amount of solar (such as the early morning / late afternoon).
My batteries have been heavily abused and I'm seeing around 200AH of usable life left in them.
This is still enough to run the AC throughout the night though.
They will recharge fully each day but only if in full sun. (Typically around 4-5 hours).
If there is no solar charging, the batteries can run the refrigerator for a couple of days before dying, but the AC will eat the batteries much faster depending on how hot it is outside.
Great job on your van and your well explained video. Can rooftop panels be mounted to tilt when you want, for Max exposure?
Excellent idea as it would really increase the solar input (by more than double in some instances). It's something I would have loved to do but lacked the welding expertise.
Look for Snow & Kurt channel on YT.
Their van has a killer array that lifts with linear actuators.
Not really complicated.
@@VanwithTim bolt an alloy frame with hinges. Sorted.
!!!CORRECTION!!! (Filmed with the wrong solar panel datasheet)
(4) 230w monocrystalline Sunpower panels (920w total Standard Test Condition)
195w "Nominal" (PTC) for a total of 780w real world production.
AC battery test: th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html
-Tim
Could you mount this higher up and then run ducting from under the van to where the a/c sits? The small fan may push the cold air around enough where it's not really necessary, but was there a reason you floor mounted it besides being able to pull outside air in easily? Awesome, awesome setup, much respect!!
Excellent question. It would have been ideal to mount it higher up, but our van has glass windows all around. That would have blocked our outside vent. Also the curvature of the van walls would have pushed the unit too far into the living area (if that makes sense)
Thinking of adding ducting to it eventually!
What model are those panels? Are they 61x41?
I have an extended Chevy express and 4 panels x 41" is 164". Which would take up almost the entire length of the roof. However, on an IG pic of your van, the panels look like they are mounted right around the back of the front door line and don't go all the way to the end of the back of the roof. For me to do that, they would need to be around 30" or so.
Roger Dayton It took a while to find these panels due to that same dimensional issue. Standard is 61x41. These panels are only 61 x 31.5!
www.pocosolar.com/wp-content/themes/twentyfifteen/pdfs/Sunpower%20Solar%20Panels/sunpower_230wht_spec_sheet.pdf
Tim I just came across this video . Your setup is probably close to what I need. I bought a 98 Ford Econoline 150 last year . There is a Toshiba a/c set on the floor behind the drivers seat. It has an inverter . It has a vent like yours to the outside. I have no idea how to run this in the van. AND I live in Central Florida near Tampa . I am an older woman who finds myself having to live in the van almost full time. I can’t seem to get anyone to help me with this not even to understand what it does. That’s why I was so happy to see your video.
How can I go about getting help. What all do I need ?who can do this work for me . Thank you for any advice , what state are you in?
frigidaire makes one 5K AC model that is very efficient. Could also use a device that blunts the heavy power spike on start up (dont recall what theyre called)
Hard start capacitor?
Curious why you didnt put sheet metal wind deflector on the front of the panels but on sides instead?
(The real reason was I ran out of time in the initial build) BUT!!!
It turns out these panels already get way too hot with the lack of ventilation under them.
Check out this article on heat soak vs solar output. It's very real and very noticeable.
www.solar.com/learn/do-solar-panels-work-less-efficiently-at-certain-temperatures/
Of course with the panels being black, the heat REALLY gets wild.
I've been lightly brainstorming ways to keep them cool.
Luckily there's no wind noise from them which I really worried about. I guess they're low enough to avoid that.
Thanks for bringing that up!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim I see. I was thinking fuel efficiency/mileage reduction with no front deflectors. Maybe take the sides off and install on front to get best of both efficiency and cooling?
So what happens when the sun goes out, under the min, - does the A/C stop running?
Sylvia Justice once the sun goes down it runs off the batteries, then in the morning the sun charges the batteries back up. Luckily the temperature drops at night so the AC doesn’t have to run very long off the batteries.
@VanwithTim how long on just the batteries?
Hey love the set up, you just got a sub 😉
Cool vid man😀
Thank you!
use two way 3m red tape and a deflector
Hey Steve, actually JUST finished adding ducting to the unit! Seems to work like a charm now.
th-cam.com/video/wq_KdOZR2R0/w-d-xo.html
* help needed!! * hello! your videos are invaluable ! thank you for your information. i currently own a 2011 Chevy express cutaway, which I am converting to a small business for air bnb experiences. (not for living nor stealth, but hopefully to have people visit for lessons) I need constant power for an AC unit (Las Vegas Area - very HOT) my space is a bit larger than yours as its a cutaway not a van essentially it is a short bus, i would like to run 2 standard AC units just like yours, for similar reason to your fridge, if it breaks i can cheaply and easily replace it (a couple hundred rather than a couple thousand for an RV style ac unit). I am using your links to hopefully have the same solar set up as you ( I am 28 F with a criminal justice background, so I am learning everything I am doing off of TH-cam, and solar has been the most intimidating to me. My question is, would I need more panels than you have? or would it be similar wattage to the rest of your appliances to have a second AC unit? also, the solar charge controller is sold out, do you have a recommended alternate? i understand how busy you must be, and how many comments you likely get but any and all information regarding your solar set up is greatly appreciated, i am trying to make this build the best it can be with the savings i have and offloading assets as you have done, and the heat is my greatest fear and problem to mitigate, with solar i am hoping to use the Vegas sun to my advantage, thank you for your videos and safe travels!!!
Sweet setup. How has it held up? What would you say you had into that setup altogether?
Have you ever thought of using a compressor ac unit like the Midea 8000 btu. It pulls only 340 wats
I would LOVE to upgrade to an inverter compressor setup. Much more efficient. Looks like the Midea 8k BTU unit pulls 710 watts according to the spec sheet on Home Depot, but still an EXTREMELY efficient unit.
Others have reported great success with the Midea units in their van builds!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim Actually i have the Midea 8 k and tested its wattage and on dry mode which i prefer its 330 watts and on normal cool its 350. So this is perfect. I like dry mode because its not a damp chill and is much more comfortable. I just use a fan with it and it’s perfect for me, if thats the case, how many solar panels can i get away with?
@@goldengirls0125 It sounds like a really nice unit! If we calculate off of 340w (plus a ~10% power inverter efficiency loss of 34w) you would be using around 8,000 - 9,000w per day… BUT that’s assuming it’s pulling that 340w for the full 24 hours which is unlikely.
Here’s my video on daily solar output totals: th-cam.com/video/JKKaOVQfs5o/w-d-xo.html
For reference, my 920w of solar produced 5,150w total on a nice long sunny day (well, May 19th to be exact)
I guess I would try to measure your full daily usage with a 120v power meter and the AC plugged into it. That would give you your true power needs! Here’s the cheap power meter I use: (currently $13 amzn.to/3UeDIul)
@@VanwithTim Great . I have a meter like that but i need to figure it out more. Thanks so much!
@@goldengirls0125 Sure thing! Happy travels!
Have you worked on other vans? Is there any way you would do this for a price for other people? If so, I would like your info please! I have a Ford Econoline 350 Passenger van and would like to do this:)
Hi Sarah, I have done work on other's van builds as well. Shoot me an email any time!
vanwithtim@gmail.com
@@VanwithTimOh my gosh, I was researching cooling options again, totally forgot that I asked this question🙈 I’m right back here a year later 😂 thank you!
Go to a library that has a 3D printer and you can print a better duct for your AC
Your comment inspired me to finally take the plunge into 3D modeling (via Fusion360). Little bit of a learning curve but I've been wanting to jump into it for a while.
Thank you!
-Tim
@@VanwithTim that's so cool! You should document your process for TH-cam
The exhaust grate looks amazing. I question if this set up allows enough airflow to be efficient. Also when there is high humidity there is going to be a lot of condensation, where that does that drain?
Thanks AJ! I was worried about the airflow as well. Luckily there haven't been any issues with performance.
I've since seen many setups which are much more restricted (a 6"x6" air inlet and 6"x8" exhaust). The owners claim the AC works fine, but I'm sure it's much less efficient.
You might find this video interesting on the AC power draw - th-cam.com/video/V0r2ijuKd-c/w-d-xo.html
That 12-hour test was performed on a hot humid day in Michigan and it drained a LOT of condensation down through the intake grille.
(I drilled a few holes in the lowest point of the AC drain pan directly above the intake grille.)
How much battery would you need to run all night? We’re in Florida so it’s pretty much a necessity
Ah. Good old Florida. Always hot and humid.
I wish I could give even a general idea, but it depends so heavily on how often the AC cycles throughout the night.
About halfway through the night ours would rarely come on except once or twice before the morning (as the outdoor temp already dropped and there was no further need for cooling).
Try this out:
www.batterystuff.com/kb/tools/calculator-sizing-a-battery-to-a-load.html
Our AC (even after inverter inefficiency losses) draws almost exactly 50 amps at 12v.
Then the only variable left to input is the run time (load duration).
In the dark, the sun won't be baking you inside your van which is essentially a solar oven, so a good average might be 25% cycling (15 minutes run time every hour).
So if you're calculating 10 hours of AC at 25% cycling, that would be a cumulative run time of 150 minutes. (2.5 hours)
(You can run it much longer if you want to drop below that discharge level, but the higher the depth of discharge (DoD), the more you take away from your batteries usable life)
I should also mention a HUGE determining factor is how much air you're cooling. Our van is so small with the low roof and large cabinets / raised bed that there's very few cubic feet of air to cool. A large Sprinter / Transit / Promaster will easily double / triple the amount of air to cool.
Just food for thought and thinking out loud on that!
Hope that helps!
Thanks for watching Tyler!
Love the stealth grill look. If you did it again would you put the air conditioner higher or would you just duct the cold air higher off the unit so it would naturally drop? Also would you or do u recover the water from the air conditioner?
Hey Shane, if my van more were square and didn't have windows all around the upper half I would probably mount it higher.
The glass windows surrounding the entire perimeter of the van made that tough.
Even if it were a cargo model though, the GM vans have a very "rounded" interior (where the ceiling is much more narrow than the floor)
This would make the AC unit protrude way out into the living space unfortunately.
I think I would floor mount it again and duct it higher in this particular set-up if I were to do it again.
I don't recover any of the water from the condensation, it just drips to the ground outside. There is a huge 75 gallon (284 liter) water tank under the bed, so we don't worry too much about our water levels.
Thanks for watching!!
Hey Shane, actually just finished adding ducting to the AC unit (finally!)
th-cam.com/video/wq_KdOZR2R0/w-d-xo.html
Also how do you get away with charging different amp hour and brand batteries ? I thaught they would all have to be the same to prevent overcharging
That's a good question and here's a good article on the subject: rvnerds.com/2017/08/07/electrical-myths-part-3-mixing-batteries-different-agescapacities/
Here's a quick excerpt:
Let’s suppose you have 3 different 12V batteries, wired in parallel to supply 12V power to your RV. They can have different capacities on account of size or age, but the same chemistry (e.g. all flooded lead acid or all AGM). Before you start charging, the voltage across each of them is the same-even if one is fully charged and the others aren’t. Charge will flow from one battery to the other two until they’re balanced. With a lead acid battery bank, the internal resistances are limiting to a point that you don’t have to worry about arcing or your battery cables overheating when you connect them (not the case with lithium-ion banks…).
Hope that shines a little light on the subject. You'll find a lot of conflicting articles out there and "armchair experts"
Battery science is truly a deep rabbit hole to dive into. But for the sake of van conversions, it seems to work great for us even after 1.5 years.
-Tim
@@VanwithTim thank you so much for the information man!! That helps me big-time for the future when I add to my setup. because I have a 180ah 12v Battery that I made from purchasing chinese lithium cells. But i wanted to add maybe a 100ah cell.pack.in the future to it. I was worried that wouldn't work
@@owenbell2572 I plan to go the Lithium route myself once these AGMs finally die out.
Have lots of research to do myself! They're really changing the game for sure.
You need a much bigger battery bank for the AC to run through night.
You’re right, but if we ran it all night we would be below freezing inside. (It's only 250cuft of airspace in the vans living area - the average small bedroom is 1,100cuft)
About halfway through the night ours would rarely come on except once or twice before the morning (as the outdoor temp already dropped and there was no further need for cooling).
In the dark, the sun won't be baking you inside the solar oven that is the van, so a good average after dark might be 25% cycling (15 minutes run time every hour). So, if you're calculating 10 hours of AC at 25% cycling, that would be a cumulative run time of 150 minutes. (2.5 hours)
Of course, this all depends on your outdoor night temperatures. We don’t stay in Phoenix or Vegas during the summer as it’s 120F in the day and 100F at night… The van has wheels for a reason!
Our AC (even after inverter inefficiency losses) draws almost exactly 50 amps at 12v.
50 amps * 2.5 hours = 125 amp hours
To calculate the usable amp hours, you must decide what depth of discharge (DoD) level you’re comfortable with.
Is it 50%? 75%? Or do you go all out and run your batteries to 100% discharge, not caring about the usable life?
Will for sure make a video of the daytime / night time cooling along with battery levels and indoor / outdoor temps once it warms up for a test!
Hope you don’t mind me asking an off topic question. What did you do about the air bags on your build. Assume your year van came with the curtain airbags like I have. Thanks in advance