Extreme ventilation with the laquor thinner. Lol i know what you mean. I did this in my garage on the bench next to the overhead door wide open and this stuff is strong. But it works well.
The issue I have is the bell, the mechanism works but it doesn’t ding. The striker is resting on the bell. There’s a piece of metal at the pivot end that looks like maybe it’s supposed to be bent to adjust? Also the bell is on a 90° bracket so maybe that’s supposed to be bent down a bit? Not sure on that.
Hi Duane. Great job on the Corona. I understand why you use lacquer thinner, but I'm reluctant to use a chemical so potent in my house. Can you recommend an alternative flush that is almost as good but not quite as overwhelming? Many thanks, H
I don't intend to answer for Duane but this question has been asked and answered many times in the past. For example, see his reply below: "I have tried less potent chemicals with poor & slow, results." So have I 😃 I've also used more potent chemicals (which I won't mention) with disastrous results. Among experienced typewriter technicians, LT has been the preferred solvent for years. There is nothing almost as good, and there really isn't anything preferable to it.
Nu-trol 401 or 409? The 401B Nu-Troll Control Cleaner for Electronics is a unique blend of high purity solvents and a lubricating mineral oil that is excellent for cleaning and lubricating delicate moving parts in electronics. The solvent system also effectively dissolves oil and organic residues.
Yes, droplets of lacquer thinner can stain certain paints, best to coat with WD-40 or cover as needed The only thing left on this unit that could be harmed is the back panel & it's too far away from where I'm using the thinner When zapping LT with compressed air it generally vaporizes instantly, biggest thing is Ventilation ! A mixture of LT and the Nutrol spray will splatter some because of the oil, but it's now diluted the LT to a no harm level I have tried less potent chemicals with poor & slow, results. With my 40 yr experience using strong chemicals I have mastered this process.
These old Smith Coronas are so nice to work on
Love your taste in music! ❤
Very nice. It would be interesting to see a start to finish "complete works" job.
Pink floyd +typewriters=👍🏻
Extreme ventilation with the laquor thinner. Lol i know what you mean. I did this in my garage on the bench next to the overhead door wide open and this stuff is strong. But it works well.
This was so satisfying to watch!
😊❤👍
The issue I have is the bell, the mechanism works but it doesn’t ding. The striker is resting on the bell. There’s a piece of metal at the pivot end that looks like maybe it’s supposed to be bent to adjust? Also the bell is on a 90° bracket so maybe that’s supposed to be bent down a bit? Not sure on that.
Once a bell's linkage get bent or wonky it can be very very tricking to get right
I many times need to do a side by side comparison with a unmolested typewriter, that's my advice . . . . .
Here is some solid advice on bells in particular
𝐈𝐭'𝐬 𝐛𝐞𝐬𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐮𝐧𝐝𝐞𝐫𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐚𝐬𝐢𝐜 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧 𝐩𝐡𝐢𝐥𝐨𝐬𝐨𝐩𝐡𝐲 𝐨𝐟 𝐚 𝐭𝐲𝐩𝐞𝐰𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥? 𝐓𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐫𝐨𝐮𝐠𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐡𝐨𝐰 𝐢𝐭 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤𝐬, 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐨𝐛𝐬𝐞𝐫𝐯𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐢𝐭 𝐝𝐨𝐞𝐬, 𝐡𝐞𝐥𝐩𝐬 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐮𝐩 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐢𝐝𝐞𝐚𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐢𝐧𝐯𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐠𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐟𝐢𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐫𝐨𝐨𝐭 𝐜𝐚𝐮𝐬𝐞 𝐨𝐟 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭'𝐬 𝐜𝐚𝐮𝐬𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐬𝐲𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐦 𝐭𝐨 𝐦𝐢𝐬𝐛𝐞𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞.
𝐄𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐲 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐬𝐲𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐦 𝐢𝐧 𝐚 𝐭𝐲𝐩𝐞𝐰𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐚𝐬 (𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤𝐰𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐬 𝐟𝐫𝐨𝐦 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐭𝐬𝐞𝐥𝐟):
𝟏. 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐨𝐟 𝐜𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐬𝐞, 𝐰𝐡𝐢𝐜𝐡 𝐧𝐞𝐞𝐝𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐭𝐨𝐮𝐜𝐡 𝐚𝐧𝐲𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐫 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐰𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐚 𝐦𝐮𝐭𝐞𝐝 𝐨𝐫 𝐝𝐮𝐥𝐥 𝐬𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝.
𝟐. 𝐚 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫. 𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞 𝐯𝐚𝐫𝐲 𝐟𝐫𝐨𝐦 𝐦𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐦𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐞𝐬𝐢𝐠𝐧. 𝐒𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐰𝐢𝐫𝐞 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐚 𝐛𝐫𝐚𝐬𝐬 𝐨𝐫 𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐛𝐚𝐥𝐥 𝐨𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐞𝐧𝐝, 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐥𝐨𝐧𝐠 𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐞𝐥 𝐚𝐫𝐦 𝐨𝐧 𝐚 𝐩𝐢𝐯𝐨𝐭, 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐡𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐬𝐦. 𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐲 𝐬𝐡𝐨𝐮𝐥𝐝 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐭𝐨𝐮𝐜𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐩𝐨𝐬𝐢𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧.
𝟑. 𝐀 𝐬𝐩𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐡𝐞𝐥𝐩𝐬 𝐭𝐨 𝐟𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫/𝐡𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐫.
𝟒. 𝐀 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐩 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐬𝐦 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐭𝐞𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 "𝐟𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐤" 𝐭𝐨 𝐜𝐚𝐮𝐬𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫 𝐨𝐫 𝐡𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐨 𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐤𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥.
𝟓. 𝐀 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭-𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐠𝐞𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐞𝐧𝐠𝐚𝐠𝐞𝐬 𝐰𝐢𝐭𝐡 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐩 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐬𝐦 𝐭𝐨 𝐟𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫/𝐡𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐫.
𝐒𝐨 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞 𝐩𝐢𝐞𝐜𝐞 (𝐨𝐫 𝐩𝐢𝐞𝐜𝐞𝐬) 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐬 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐢𝐧 𝐨𝐟 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐢𝐬 𝐟𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐨 𝐢𝐭𝐬 𝐣𝐨𝐛.
𝐒𝐞𝐭 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐬𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐰𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐝𝐲, 𝐝𝐞𝐩𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐫𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐞, 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫𝐬𝐞𝐥𝐟 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐦𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐚 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐭𝐚𝐛𝐥𝐞, 𝐟𝐥𝐚𝐭/𝐡𝐨𝐫𝐢𝐳𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐚𝐥 𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐜𝐞 (𝐚𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐬𝐲𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐦 𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐢𝐞𝐬 𝐚 𝐥𝐨𝐭 𝐨𝐧 𝐠𝐫𝐚𝐯𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐯𝐢𝐝𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫-𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐜𝐞𝐬, 𝐬𝐨 𝐭𝐢𝐩𝐩𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚 𝐦𝐚𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐞 𝐚𝐫𝐨𝐮𝐧𝐝 𝐦𝐚𝐲 𝐝𝐞𝐟𝐞𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐧 𝐨𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐰𝐢𝐬𝐞 𝐧𝐨𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐲 𝐨𝐩𝐞𝐫𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥), 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐚𝐫𝐫𝐢𝐚𝐠𝐞 𝐛𝐚𝐜𝐤 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐟𝐨𝐫𝐭𝐡, 𝐰𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐬𝐞𝐭 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐠𝐠𝐞𝐫/𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐩 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐬𝐦𝐬.
𝐀𝐫𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐲 𝐜𝐚𝐭𝐜𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠? 𝐈𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 "𝐟𝐥𝐢𝐜𝐤" 𝐡𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐧𝐢𝐧𝐠? 𝐈𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫/𝐡𝐚𝐦𝐦𝐞𝐫 𝐦𝐨𝐯𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐚𝐭 𝐚𝐥𝐥? 𝐈𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐥𝐚𝐩𝐩𝐞𝐫 𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐢𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐛𝐮𝐭 𝐬𝐭𝐢𝐥𝐥 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐫𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐠?
𝐀𝐥𝐥 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐬𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐬 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐢𝐫 𝐨𝐰𝐧 𝐫𝐞𝐦𝐞𝐝𝐢𝐞𝐬 𝐢𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐲 𝐚𝐫𝐞 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐰𝐨𝐫𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐠.
𝐈𝐭'𝐬 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫 𝐣𝐨𝐛 𝐭𝐨 𝐝𝐞𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐞 𝐰𝐡𝐢𝐜𝐡 𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐤 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐢𝐧 𝐢𝐬 𝐟𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐠 ... 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐚 𝐭𝐢𝐩, 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐦𝐚𝐲 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐨𝐧𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠, 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐥𝐢𝐧𝐤𝐬 "𝐝𝐨𝐰𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐦" 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐢𝐧 𝐨𝐟 𝐞𝐯𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐬 𝐦𝐚𝐲 𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐲 𝐰𝐞𝐥𝐥 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐬𝐲𝐦𝐩𝐭𝐨𝐦𝐬.
𝐒𝐨𝐦𝐞𝐭𝐢𝐦𝐞𝐬 𝐝𝐢𝐚𝐠𝐧𝐨𝐬𝐢𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐫𝐞𝐩𝐚𝐢𝐫 𝐨𝐟 𝐚 𝐬𝐮𝐛𝐬𝐲𝐬𝐭𝐞𝐦 𝐚𝐬 𝐬𝐞𝐞𝐦𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐥𝐲 𝐬𝐢𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐞 𝐚𝐬 𝐚 𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐠𝐢𝐧 𝐛𝐞𝐥𝐥, 𝐢𝐬 𝐚 𝐠𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐭 𝐞𝐱𝐞𝐫𝐜𝐢𝐬𝐞 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐜𝐨𝐦𝐩𝐥𝐞𝐱𝐢𝐭𝐲 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐢𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬𝐡𝐢𝐩𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐦𝐞𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐢𝐜𝐬 𝐨𝐟 𝐚 𝐭𝐲𝐩𝐞𝐰𝐫𝐢𝐭𝐞𝐫.
𝐓𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐧𝐨 𝐞𝐚𝐬𝐲 𝐚𝐧𝐬𝐰𝐞𝐫, 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐡𝐚𝐯𝐞 𝐭𝐨 𝐠𝐞𝐭 𝐲𝐨𝐮𝐫 "𝐡𝐞𝐚𝐝 𝐢𝐧 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐫𝐞" 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐬𝐞𝐞 𝐰𝐡𝐚𝐭'𝐬 𝐠𝐨𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐨𝐧.
𝐓𝐈𝐏: 𝐀𝐭𝐭𝐞𝐦𝐩𝐭 𝐭𝐨 𝐧𝐨𝐭 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐚𝐧𝐲𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐮𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐥 𝐲𝐨𝐮 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐞𝐱𝐩𝐥𝐚𝐢𝐧 𝐡𝐨𝐰 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐜𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐞 𝐢𝐬 𝐥𝐢𝐤𝐞𝐥𝐲 𝐭𝐨 𝐫𝐞𝐬𝐨𝐥𝐯𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝐢𝐬𝐬𝐮𝐞. 𝐂𝐡𝐚𝐧𝐠𝐢𝐧𝐠 𝐭𝐡𝐢𝐧𝐠𝐬 𝐡𝐚𝐩𝐡𝐚𝐳𝐚𝐫𝐝𝐥𝐲 𝐜𝐚𝐧 𝐜𝐫𝐞𝐚𝐭𝐞 𝐞𝐧𝐭𝐢𝐫𝐞𝐥𝐲 𝐧𝐞𝐰 𝐩𝐫𝐨𝐛𝐥𝐞𝐦𝐬 𝐭𝐡𝐚𝐭 𝐫𝐞𝐪𝐮𝐢𝐫𝐞 𝐭𝐡𝐞𝐢𝐫 𝐨𝐰𝐧 𝐬𝐨𝐥𝐮𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧𝐬.
Hi Duane. Great job on the Corona. I understand why you use lacquer thinner, but I'm reluctant to use a chemical so potent in my house. Can you recommend an alternative flush that is almost as good but not quite as overwhelming? Many thanks, H
I don't intend to answer for Duane but this question has been asked and answered many times in the past. For example, see his reply below: "I have tried less potent chemicals with poor & slow, results."
So have I 😃
I've also used more potent chemicals (which I won't mention) with disastrous results.
Among experienced typewriter technicians, LT has been the preferred solvent for years. There is nothing almost as good, and there really isn't anything preferable to it.
What did you use to rinse out the oxidation dust after brushing it?
My standard flush with lacquer thinner, finished with Nutrol spray cleaner and a trace of oil, all excess blow out.
www.ebay.com/itm/203648187505
Nu-trol 401 or 409?
The 401B Nu-Troll Control Cleaner for Electronics is a unique blend of high purity solvents and a lubricating mineral oil that is excellent for cleaning and lubricating delicate moving parts in electronics. The solvent system also effectively dissolves oil and organic residues.
Is it a concern that the air might blow some thinner onto the paint?
Yes, droplets of lacquer thinner can stain certain paints, best to coat with WD-40 or cover as needed
The only thing left on this unit that could be harmed is the back panel & it's too far away from where I'm using the thinner
When zapping LT with compressed air it generally vaporizes instantly, biggest thing is Ventilation !
A mixture of LT and the Nutrol spray will splatter some because of the oil, but it's now diluted the LT to a no harm level
I have tried less potent chemicals with poor & slow, results. With my 40 yr experience using strong chemicals I have mastered this process.
Pink Floyd today 😊