I don't own a Shovelhead any longer and I still loved every second of this. You're a legend, Mike. I appreciate the knowledge you share and your teaching style.
@Dirk--Funny you mention Tatro, because when I watch him I often think of how their organization of tools(shop) are the extreme opposite. Tatro's a might messy, and Mike is meticulously neat. Lol. But I enjoy both.
Your videos aided me in rebuilding my shovelhead last winter. Last night when riding home i started losing clutch adjustment and had a good idea what it was. I did a quick search just to make sure I got it right the first time and here you are again! Thanks Mike!
That "radial bearing" sandwiched between 2 thrust washers is a "thrust bearing", lol. It amazes me how easily such obvious nomenclature can disappear from our vocabulary at the most inopportune times, yet be readily recalled at pretty much any other time. As always, grade A episode Mike and friends!
Hey brother joe from Illinois here , I call them jesus clips because when they go flying ( in your beard) i always say awe jesus , stay safe out on the road my brother hope to see you some day
Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. “Someday” might be on its way around for my old “shovel”. I’m thinking it’s been a dust collector long enough.
Without your videos sir I would have been literally lost. I am new to the Harley Davidson world and my first purchase was a 1981 Shovelhead FXS Lowrider I put in a 96", 4 5/8 S&S stroker, Andrews cams, Springer front, 3" BDL open belt. It was literally in a box when purchased and I decided to give it a little shake to her. Your videos taught me a lot about how to rebuild the bike with patience, care with no side tracking or jimmy rigging, Thank you.
Hi Mike, thank you , thank you, thank you. She lives again! Really helpful video as they always are. The finger that operates the throw out bearing snapped on my 1982 FXE so i had to order a new one and replace. I dont know what i would do without your informative videos. Thanks again. Alvin Englishman living in France Annecy.
Hello and good morning from Sweden. Nice to see a new video👍. I can tell that u have done it before Mike. Looks so easy. I done it once when the finger broke. It is good to have a beard to catch flying parts. Alot of rain here lately. But good to have a video from sunny california 😎. "The Swede" 🇸🇪
I enjoy all your videos, Mike. I'm a panhead guy so the work on the old bikes are favorites to me. I always learn something in every video you make. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank You Mike for the best motorcycle videos on TH-cam. I learn a lot from each video that you and Mike and Fred do. You guys are the best. Thank you very much!
Thank you Mike, my grew up in my dad's automotive shop, clean shop and safety were the rule of the day, Disconnect the battery. I always do even when I really don't need too.
Don't know if someone beat me to the name of the bearing. But hear it goes, It's a TORRINTON BEARING... Mike, I go through the same problem, I forgot the name of parts, I have it on the tip of my tong, the the name just dosen't come out... Love your videos...👍 One more thing, and your weight, the washers are bearing races.
Not right. Torrington is a brand. We replace the original cam bearings in Harleys with Torrington. The ones we use are encased and have parallel rollers. But yes, I forget stuff quite often.
Great show, I have been their with that little bearing, a long time ago. Remembering the heavy knuckled shapes of the old kicker and trans parts. Thanks Mike 👏👏👏
Thanks Mike, Your videos are beautiful so relaxing to watch, its great when you get to the stage when everything is clean and shiny. I know from experience there's a lot of work to get to that point. Keep them coming I'm looking forward to the project bike.
E clip l see it, but l always called it C clip. Either way when one of those go flying. I call it going to the Corn Field ! Use a magnet on the ole soup strainer.! You guy's are the best
Started using AN washers about a year ago. Menards carries them in chrome. They do look better! Never knew it stood for Army Navy. Thanks Mike! Can't wait to see the project bike again...🙂
Good info thanks, I just bought two kicker kits for a couple electric start shovels I have. This video showed me what to expect during the install. thanks. We call those "C" clips and use C-Clip pliers to spread and install them. I think you forgot to install your kicker cover gasket. Thanks Bro.
idk bout you but every time i ever used 1 o those clips ,even on an old zebco 202 fishing reel ,always thought to myself ,,,this silly thing is gonna hold this together? ,but they almost always did,thanks for the vid again Mike & you seem alot more sprii than I am ,old age spff
Thanks for the video Mike. Interesting setup on this clutch. I am always interested in seeing how different manufactures design and engineer these type of devices. I just installed a Barnett Clutch pressure plate and new friction disks on my 1997 Yamaha Royal Star. I have launched many clips in my day. I usually use a magnet tool in close proximity to the clip and it usually catches it. Just got off the phone with the manufacturer of the Clutch. I was just giving some feedback about the installation instructions and how they might be better. I had asked him about the wire that gets installed between the 7 friction disk and steel plates and the 1 friction plate all the way in the closest to the internal engine. I did not get the perfect installation on this and was concerned. He said he spoke with Yamaha top clutch engineer and he said you really don't need it. I feel better about it and the clutch works great so far.
Thanks for the knowledge of it wasn’t for people like you shops would still be screwing me over had a problem with My throw out and you made it look so simple so I took it apart and sure enough the slinger was laying in the kicker cover thanks for the knowledge
Hi Mike! It's mutch easier to put the kicker spring in the end, so you can put the cover without tools. I did it several times on my Baker 6 speed. Cheers from France
Tim Mix I have worked on my motorcycle for 51 years and I have never stopped learning and Mike is a wonderful teacher. I thank you for sharing your knowledge I love the way you explain the little things and safety tips.
Hi Mike Really enjoy your videos. You have a great way of explaining and showing the work. I have a 1946 UL, 74 ci, right hand throttle, left grip controls timer, linkert carburetor. It needs new cables for front brake, timer, and throttle. I've tried lubricating the cables with dri-slide moly lubricant, held them vertical overnight to get lubricant to drip down, but can't get it to fully coat the old cables. They are not very responsive and it is just dangerous with a sticky throttle. So I ordered new restoration quality cables with wire in a coil in cotton braided jacket. I know I have to trim them to fit, but am leery - they are spendy - cutting the wire and trimming the coil just so - I'd like to get it right. I've looked in service manual and in Palmer's books and did not find much help. Looked online and seems only modern cables are covered. Would you consider doing a video on replacing and trimming the old style cables and adjusting throttle spiral, timer, and front brake? Or do you know of a good reference? Thanks much
It's alway tough. You just have to be careful and trim as necessary. Leaving them too long and then having to shorten them again is the best. We'll show it when we have one we need to do. Can't just randomely do these things.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike Thanks for the quick reply ! Wow ! That was fast. I will definitely start a bit longer and trim if needed. I'll start with brake cable as it's easier to access and doing it a couple times will give me some practice before I start doing the throttle and timer which are run in handlebar. Thanks again
Well, just in case anyone else is interested in control cables, I did some more research and found some references, so I'll post them for their use: 1. Palmer second edition of "How to Restore your HD" does have a section on control cable routing and trimming in Chapter 2 under Chassis. See pages 128-134. 2. Kirk Perrry's "Mechanics and Owners Guide to HD OHV Big Twins," 1941-59, vol 1 describes timer cable on pages 113-114. In Vol 2, Perry has lots of photos of parts in handlebars and describes process of cleaning and replacing on pages 89-93. He gives a good tip for cutting coil wire on page 155. 3. The second edition (1945) of Nicholson's Modern MC Mechanics, page 319 has some good general tips on control cables. Of interest is they recommend "tinning" the braided wire before cutting it to prevent unraveling. 4. Rick Schunk's "How to Rebuild/Restore Classic HD Big Twins" describes installing coil and wire and has nice color photos pages 66-68. 5. There is a reprint of the early Riders Handbooks "HD Operation, Maintenance, Operation 1930-1949 Models." It discusses control cables in the Riders Handbooks for 1930-34 and 35-40 models. This reprint is still available from Harley dealers (as of Jan 2020) under PN 99407-93. It was $35. Hope I did not overstep any bounds, but I am a book geek, love the research and sharing what I found. I know, should spend more time riding, but I am what I am.
It’s crazy that you chose today to post this video. I could’ve really used it a couple days ago, the Shovelhead Bobber project we are building at the shop I work at had the retaining clip fall off the clutch push rod so all the throwout bearing parts were inside the transmission. I figured it out but it would’ve been cool to have this as a reference. Funny how timing works like that huh?
Yah it is. Ever notice in the shop, half your customers have clutch problems at once? Then, the next week, they all burn up voltage regulators. Go figure.
Pacific Mike haha! I have like 3 bikes to work on here in my shop this week for electrical issues! You sure you’re not following me around or some something? 😂 In all seriousness I appreciate the reply and I seriously appreciate the fact that you post videos like these. I’m 32 now, been doing this since I was 13-14 and I cut my teeth on Twin Cams and now I’ve also pretty well got the M8 figured out, especially the EFI models. I grew up with that so I had to have help from older, more experienced techs like yourself to learn how to diagnose and repair carbs properly. The same with most of my Evo motor knowledge, I’ve gained it by watching videos like yours and Tatro Machine’s. There’s not many of you guys around that know how to work on these older bikes, this knowledge you’re archiving and sharing is absolutely invaluable and priceless in my opinion. I can’t tell you how much it means because you can’t find this kind of good, solid information from knowledgeable guys just anywhere. Especially in this day and age where everyone who thinks they are an HD tech is able to post their ideas all over forums and Facebook. It’s so nice to have people like you that are experienced, seasoned and most importantly actually practicing the art, not just a hobbyist doing it on the weekends. I can’t say thanks enough sir.
Last E clip I had to play with wound up in the bin and a regular snap ring was in its place. I TOO prefer the Earlier style throw out bearing. I find that the later part has too many bits to screw up when you least expect it.
It’s an 05 Dyna Super Glide Custom EFI , I bought it a couple months ago. I brought it to the dealer who supposedly went through the whole bike. I rode 10 days ago. Got towed home, jumped it and it fired up. I left it on charge and the next day it wouldn’t start. Changed the battery which was shot and it fired up. I went to the gas station, topped my tank off stopped home and it never started again. I changed the plugs 2X , they first I pulled out were original Harley plugs.
Stephen, I'm sure that Mike won't mind me joining in, but what custom E.F.I. ? We can only offer advice if you're more specific. Hope that helps, thank you. SARGE BULLDOG.
SARGE BULLDOG I’m not sure what you’re asking. I have a 2005 Harley Davidson Super Glide with EFI. Am I missing something because I need to be educated if I am.
Mike first of all let me compliment the quality of your videos/detail as always. I’m having trouble with my clutch adjustment locknut/flathead adjustment screw for a sportster. I’m wondering if you had in minds to make a video on that?!
Hello Mike, I had to remove my exhaust pipes to access the cam chain tensioners on my Dyna. I had to use a torch to heat the nuts on the front head. So, before I put everything back together, should I use a never-seize on the threads?
I don't know where you live, but, you kinda want those nuts to take a set and not come loose, especially on a rubber mount motorcycle. Chase the threads, install new gaskets, remember to tighten those nuts after a couple heat cycles, then check them again several times. Do not overtighten, because those are already hard steel studs that have been heated and cooled a lot of times. But, "never-seize" is a wonderful product, probably not for this application.
Pacific Mike Thanks Mike. I won’t use Never-seize then. I’m not sure how to get in there and chase the threads on the studs. There isn’t much room. Is there a special tool?
Very good i'm working on mine now. One guy says he just put a regular snap ring on the clutch pushrod. The tabs for the snap ring pliers stick out too far and when the shaft spins they contact the operating cam on one side or the other and it gets stopped from spinning. So the snap ring is forced to not spin while the pushrod does spin. Mine was extremely loose for that. Also if the cam comes out of contact with the thrust surface it can come down on the snap ring ends and distort it. You see the kits on line with a snap ring not good. Either grind off the snap ring tabs or use the E-clip like Mike does here. You have to look in the fill plug hole to see this with a flashllight to see the issue.
Mike, I replaced mine a couple three years ago and it already broke again. I see you can by the old style and it says "exact fit" for my 1978 FXS. Would I be better off going with this or just replacing it with the OEM like you just used in this video?
Hello Mike , I put a early bearing in my late cowpie transmission but havent riden it . It seems to have adjusted correctly . What can I expect to happen ? Thank you for the great videos .
Hey Mike, you mentioned those older style bearings getting old and making noise but still working just fine. I've got one that's pretty worn and rattle-y. Wondering if you think that needs replaced? Thanks
Hello my friend I have a 1992 electra glide sport and I can't unscrew the fuel cap is there a hidden lock I don't know about before I put a little more pressure regards Alan the flip top opens fine and I am sure it is the screw in type
@@pacificmike9501 it's okay it was exactly what I thought but I wanted to make sure before I wrenched on it it's out and I had the Good sense to order another from America just in case but it is all safe just waiting for the fuel cap regards my friend Alan from across the pond
Hay Mike, I tried to adjust my clutch basket so belt stops waring. But now have to do it with your suggestion to put a spacer on the main shaft. But now it’s going to put the starter gear ⚙️ farther away from the ring gear ⚙️ in which they barely catch as it is already. I was wondering 💭 if I can put a spacer on the jack shaft so that it would put the starter gear closer to ring gear ⚙️ ? Confused 🤷♂️
Chances are, the starter jackshaft is not coming out far enough. Check to see if the lever that engages the jackshaft is bent or if the plate the jackshaft comes through is bent. That plate is the most common to get damaged and is readily available through the suppliers of parts for early bikes. I'm assuming you're working a Shovelhead, either FL or FX. You didn't tell me what the bike is.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes 1980 FXWG Shovelhead Mike. I will check all of this. It’s been going on for to long now. Thanks 🙏 Mike. I love your work and video’s
Thank You. I'll be interested to hear from you. Sometimes it gets difficult to explain without seeing it. But, working properly, that jackshaft moves quite a distance. Sometimes, it gets limited by the outer end because the bearing in the outer primary is from the wrong model. Check against another unit or two that the depth of that outer bearing is in the right place. And, don't forget the bronze washer.
MIKE!!! thanks so much for the videos. I appreciate your mentorship. I just replaced my second throwout bearing in 2 days. This is super discouraging. I have a 75 FLH (now a swingarm chopper) with matching trani. It's late 75 so it has the late style oil slinger. I'm thinking about running the old witch hat slinger. What are your thoughts on this? I really don't want to take this apart again for a while after I replace it. - More info: I installed the entire kit like you did in this video. I have the adjustment screw adjusted properly. (Screwed in until you can feel pressure then back off ~1/4 turn.) My spring plate is 1 1/32. Everything should be good. What are your thoughts??
It sounds like something else is wrong, maybe the angle of the clutch arm. Maybe you're running the cable too tight. I don't mean to offend, but I treat myself the same way. I start over and go all the way through. Something is hanging up somewhere. Once you figure that out, step up. There is a kit that allows you to install the early throwout bearing in your transmission. It includes the bearing, the pushrod and kicker gear for the early bearing to ride on. The major suppliers of aftermarket parts for old Harleys carry them. The old setup was really hard to wear out.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the advice. I didn't think I was running the clutch rod and spring plate too tight but I was. I started over and now seems to be running great. If I burn it up again, you bet I will be using the old style bearing. Thanks again Mike! -JP
Good afternoon Mike very nice video we have a 1985 lowrider with a 4-speed transmission we are getting some noise when we pull in the clutch then the noise goes away after the transmission stops spinning from the engine with the clutch still pulled in would that throwout bearing be the culprit or would it be the main pilot bearing obviously we're going to check the fluids and whatnot here first but I'm suspecting it's either one of those. Thank you again for all that you do we have learned so much from you see you out on the road
Hey Mike love the vids I have an 84 flh 5speed evo it's the one with the diamond shaped side cover very similar mechanism to the one you just installed . My one didn't have a slinger on it and I don't know if it should have one or not what do you think ?Its seen a lot of reaching by previous owners over the years and info on this model is limited, any help would be great thanks
I'm honestly not sure, probably not. What I do remember is that we needed to add a little oil to the trans with the very early 5 speeds to keep from burning up the throw out bearing. I think that answers it.
Mike, I have a footclutch, I wrecked my throw-out bearing now for the second time (Primo_Ventura clutch) would you suggest to upgrade to a LATE STYLE THROWOUT BEARING KIT?
What is the bike? Is this a four speed? If so, you're probably moving the bearing too far with your pedal. Restrict the movement. I assume you're using a suicide pedal. You gotta give me more info with the question.
@@pacificmike9501 it’s a four speed! In combination with a Panhead engine.1.5” open belt with a primo/ ventura clutch. I’m using a foot clutch pedal (I can take my foot of while engaged at a red light) not a suicide clutch.
@@pacificmike9501 I use a 14” rod, I could cut 1/4 “ off using the lathe! Thanks for the feedback! I will keep using the old style throw-out bearing one then.
Mike a few days ago a buddy came by with his 1980 shovelhead and asked me if I would adjust his clutch . At the age of 70 he's a newbie to harley's and he did try to adjust it in himself . The clutch lever would only pull in about a half way and then it was solid. I took all the slack out of the cable and removed the derby cover . the adjusting screw lockdown nut I could remove with my fingers but the adjusting screw was another matter. It took a big screwdriver and all the strength in my old arms to back of the adjusting screw. When I got it out the Treads at the end of the adusting were chewed up and the ball bearing was embedded in the adjusting screw . The clutch operating pushrod is probably toast as well. just wondering what I should do next to try and fix this problem ? Thanks
First off, the adjusting screw with a ball bearing in the end of it is an aftermarket piece that I've seen a lot of and replaced a lot of. I don't know that it's a bad idea, but not one of my favorites. Personally, I would replace the adjusting screw with an original type and replace the clutch rod. They are probably both bad. You'll have to open the right side and do the throwout bearing at the same time. Clean and adjust the whole clutch. Remember, you're adjusting a 1980 model with the rotary top on the trans. According to the service manual, back off all tension on the clutch cable and set the adjusting screw to put the clutcharm (while you pull the cable with your hand, so you can locate the clutch arm at rest 13/16" from the top of the trans lid. And remember, "No good deed goes unpunished." You're a good guy.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you very much Mike for getting back to me so fast I really appreciate it. Thank you so much for your instructions. I'll let you know out everything turns out when I get it finished. Stay safe and thanks again Mike
Look at "Building a Kickstarter for the Flathead 80." It's the same as the newer ones. Big twin four speed kickstarters are pretty much the same. There are a few updated parts. Be sure you buy parts for your year and model. It's easier to go through our list of videos on a computer as opposed to a phone.
Do it according to the manual. This is in linear measurements, not a pressure you can measure. You didn't mention a problem. Is your clutch slipping? Are the plates all clean and set up properly? Have you overpowered your stock clutch? Sure has happened to me. Maybe better parts, clutch plates, springs, you need to tell more. I'll help if I can.
You've probably forgotten more knowledge than most people will have in a lifetime. Definitely one of the best channels on TH-cam
Probably not, but, Thank You.
Thank you very much
I'm an old 70 yr. old that could watch this shit all day. You are much appreciated.
That one goes both ways. Thank You.
You keep saying "And there it is.", and I'll keep saying "Excellent Video". Excellent video. Thanks, Mike.
Thanks again!
good seeing you mike its me leroy bin looking for your videos glad i got to see you thanks
Hey, thanks
I don't own a Shovelhead any longer and I still loved every second of this. You're a legend, Mike. I appreciate the knowledge you share and your teaching style.
Thank You. Those are wonderful compliments.
Always love stopping by the garage have a blessed week my friend.
Thanks, you too!
Between you and Tatro, Your channel's are my favorite!
Wow, thank you!
@Dirk--Funny you mention Tatro, because when I watch him I often think of how their organization of tools(shop) are the extreme opposite. Tatro's a might messy, and Mike is meticulously neat. Lol. But I enjoy both.
@@rjay4019 , exactly , I agree !!
Your videos aided me in rebuilding my shovelhead last winter. Last night when riding home i started losing clutch adjustment and had a good idea what it was. I did a quick search just to make sure I got it right the first time and here you are again! Thanks Mike!
That really makes me feel good. Thank You.
That "radial bearing" sandwiched between 2 thrust washers is a "thrust bearing", lol. It amazes me how easily such obvious nomenclature can disappear from our vocabulary at the most inopportune times, yet be readily recalled at pretty much any other time. As always, grade A episode Mike and friends!
Thank You.
Hey brother joe from Illinois here , I call them jesus clips because when they go flying ( in your beard) i always say awe jesus , stay safe out on the road my brother hope to see you some day
Thank You. I'll look forward to it.
Love your videos . Always learn something new about the forgotten Harley's flatheads, knuckleheads, panheads, shovelheads .
We never forgot 'em! I've been riding 'em all my life. We're just finally having time to play. Glad you could join us.
Wierd is putting it lightly we are well and blessed great to see you Mike!
And great to hear from you.
Mike watching this brought back lots of memories of wrenching on my 70 FLH and 76 FXE SuperGlide.. You my man are a treasure...
Wow. Thank You.
Great Video,, I'm like your online apprentice , I have just imported a FLH 1980 Shovel. Cheers from Australia and
many ,thanks for your time.
What a nice thing! Thank You.
Great video you keep your bikes cleaner than anyone I've ever seen stay safe
Thank You. You do the same.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge sir. “Someday” might be on its way around for my old “shovel”. I’m thinking it’s been a dust collector long enough.
Go for it!
So glad to see you safe and well brother Mike!
I am, and, wishing you the same.
Without your videos sir I would have been literally lost. I am new to the Harley Davidson world and my first purchase was a 1981 Shovelhead FXS Lowrider I put in a 96", 4 5/8 S&S stroker, Andrews cams, Springer front, 3" BDL open belt. It was literally in a box when purchased and I decided to give it a little shake to her. Your videos taught me a lot about how to rebuild the bike with patience, care with no side tracking or jimmy rigging, Thank you.
Glad to help
Good to see you in the shop Mike, keep on wrenching!
That's the plan!Thank You.
“E-clip safety and you” featuring Pacific Mike
Keep on keepin’ on Bro! Love your vids
I thank you. My E clip beard thanks you.
Happy Father’s Day Mike hope its been great for you have a great day and thanks for sharing and God Bless y’all
Thank you! You too!
I love how organized and clean your shop is. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Mike, thank you , thank you, thank you. She lives again! Really helpful video as they always are. The finger that operates the throw out bearing snapped on my 1982 FXE so i had to order a new one and replace. I dont know what i would do without your informative videos. Thanks again. Alvin Englishman living in France Annecy.
That's great! I am truly glad.
Always very pleasant to look at you explaining mecanic.
Thank You.
Hello and good morning from Sweden. Nice to see a new video👍. I can tell that u have done it before Mike. Looks so easy. I done it once when the finger broke. It is good to have a beard to catch flying parts. Alot of rain here lately. But good to have a video from sunny california 😎. "The Swede" 🇸🇪
Greetings!
I enjoy all your videos, Mike. I'm a panhead guy so the work on the old bikes are favorites to me. I always learn something in every video you make. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank You. I hope you've been looking at our earlier videos. We're gonna get into more fun as we go. It just takes time to get there.
Thank You Mike for the best motorcycle videos on TH-cam. I learn a lot from each video that you and Mike and Fred do. You guys are the best. Thank you very much!
Glad you like them!
Mike, it's like you're psychic or something!! I messed up that same bearing, and I need to do this fix tomorrow. Thanks again!!
Glad to help
Hallo Mike It‘s a thrust bearing , Greetings from the Netherlands!!
Yes it is. But, that design of a bearing with it's rollers in a radial pattern, has a proper name.
Mike great video just want to say thank you your videos have helped me so much her lately with my 71 super glide..say blessed.
Glad to hear it.Thank You.
Thank you Mike, my grew up in my dad's automotive shop, clean shop and safety were the rule of the day, Disconnect the battery. I always do even when I really don't need too.
I understand. You don't need to think about it again, if you already took care of it. I thank you and your dad.
Your videos are awesome. Thank you very much. Regards from Azores
Thank you very much!
Good to see ya Mike! Had me worried! Another great video! I’ve always referred to them as needle bearings...
Be safe!
Thank You. You too.
Don't know if someone beat me to the name of the bearing. But hear it goes, It's a TORRINTON BEARING...
Mike, I go through the same problem, I forgot the name of parts, I have it on the tip of my tong, the the name just dosen't come out...
Love your videos...👍
One more thing, and your weight, the washers are bearing races.
Not right. Torrington is a brand. We replace the original cam bearings in Harleys with Torrington. The ones we use are encased and have parallel rollers. But yes, I forget stuff quite often.
Great show, I have been their with that little bearing, a long time ago. Remembering the heavy knuckled shapes of the old kicker and trans parts. Thanks Mike 👏👏👏
Thank You.
Thanks Mike! I’m always learning something by watching your videos! Thank you for sharing your expert knowledge!
Thank You.
Thanks Mike, Your videos are beautiful so relaxing to watch, its great when you get to the stage when everything is clean and shiny. I know from experience there's a lot of work to get to that point. Keep them coming I'm looking forward to the project bike.
Thank You. We will get there.
E clip l see it, but l always called it C clip. Either way when one of those go flying. I call it going to the Corn Field ! Use a magnet on the ole soup strainer.! You guy's are the best
Thank You. I will take your suggestions under advisement.
Started using AN washers about a year ago. Menards carries them in chrome. They do look better! Never knew it stood for Army Navy. Thanks Mike! Can't wait to see the project bike again...🙂
Me too. Thank You.
Thanks Mike. Great vid, happy you’re well.
Thanks, you too!
Good info thanks, I just bought two kicker kits for a couple electric start shovels I have.
This video showed me what to expect during the install. thanks.
We call those "C" clips and use C-Clip pliers to spread and install them.
I think you forgot to install your kicker cover gasket.
Thanks Bro.
Thank You. No, I didn't. I had already put it on. I forgot to tell you. Look closely.
@@pacificmike9501 You dang sure did install that gasket, haha, I see it now. Thanks
@@bovrbey may I ask where you sourced those kicker kits? I might want to put one on our electric only 78.
idk bout you but every time i ever used 1 o those clips ,even on an old zebco 202 fishing reel ,always thought to myself ,,,this silly thing is gonna hold this together? ,but they almost always did,thanks for the vid again Mike & you seem alot more sprii than I am ,old age spff
Thank You.
Mike you answered my question in this video.
Thank You very much!
You the man Mike!
Cool. Thank You.
You always make it look so easy and simple. Cool stuff as usual and always learning from your videos. Thanks a bundle Mike.
Very welcome.
Great info to know.The E clips are tough to install . It takes a steady hand to lock them in.
And a real talent to find them in your beard later.
Thank You.
Thanks Mike, your videos are informative and therapeutic!
Cool. Glad you like them.
Great video! And that is a different looking clutch arm!!!
It is. It needed to be designed that way and came with my Baker 6 speed.
Thanks for the video Mike. Interesting setup on this clutch. I am always interested in seeing how different manufactures design and engineer these type of devices. I just installed a Barnett Clutch pressure plate and new friction disks on my 1997 Yamaha Royal Star. I have launched many clips in my day. I usually use a magnet tool in close proximity to the clip and it usually catches it.
Just got off the phone with the manufacturer of the Clutch. I was just giving some feedback about the installation instructions and how they might be better. I had asked him about the wire that gets installed between the 7 friction disk and steel plates and the 1 friction plate all the way in the closest to the internal engine. I did not get the perfect installation on this and was concerned. He said he spoke with Yamaha top clutch engineer and he said you really don't need it. I feel better about it and the clutch works great so far.
Yes, I've done business with Barnett for many decades. Great people, products and service.
Thanks for the knowledge of it wasn’t for people like you shops would still be screwing me over had a problem with My throw out and you made it look so simple so I took it apart and sure enough the slinger was laying in the kicker cover thanks for the knowledge
Glad tp help.
I grew up with guys like you!
I hope you've recovered.
Hi Mike!
It's mutch easier to put the kicker spring in the end, so you can put the cover without tools. I did it several times on my Baker 6 speed. Cheers from France
But it's fun. Actually, it's a habit from the need to work quickly in a shop environment. You don't want to remove the arm.
Another great video. Thanks. Brings back memories of my 72 FLH.
Yah. Let's make new memories.
Another great video keep them coming learning all the time
Thanks, will do!
Excellent video, enjoy them so much. Stay safe Mike.
Thank You. You too.
Your knowledge to me is priceless.👍🖖
I appreciate that.
Tim Mix I have worked on my motorcycle for 51 years and I have never stopped learning and Mike is a wonderful teacher. I thank you for sharing your knowledge I love the way you explain the little things and safety tips.
Hi Mike
Really enjoy your videos. You have a great way of explaining and showing the work.
I have a 1946 UL, 74 ci, right hand throttle, left grip controls timer, linkert carburetor. It needs new cables for front brake, timer, and throttle. I've tried lubricating the cables with dri-slide moly lubricant, held them vertical overnight to get lubricant to drip down, but can't get it to fully coat the old cables. They are not very responsive and it is just dangerous with a sticky throttle. So I ordered new restoration quality cables with wire in a coil in cotton braided jacket. I know I have to trim them to fit, but am leery - they are spendy - cutting the wire and trimming the coil just so - I'd like to get it right. I've looked in service manual and in Palmer's books and did not find much help. Looked online and seems only modern cables are covered. Would you consider doing a video on replacing and trimming the old style cables and adjusting throttle spiral, timer, and front brake? Or do you know of a good reference? Thanks much
It's alway tough. You just have to be careful and trim as necessary. Leaving them too long and then having to shorten them again is the best. We'll show it when we have one we need to do. Can't just randomely do these things.
@@pacificmike9501 Mike
Thanks for the quick reply ! Wow ! That was fast. I will definitely start a bit longer and trim if needed. I'll start with brake cable as it's easier to access and doing it a couple times will give me some practice before I start doing the throttle and timer which are run in handlebar. Thanks again
Well, just in case anyone else is interested in control cables, I did some more research and found some references, so I'll post them for their use:
1. Palmer second edition of "How to Restore your HD" does have a section on control cable routing and trimming in Chapter 2 under Chassis. See pages 128-134.
2. Kirk Perrry's "Mechanics and Owners Guide to HD OHV Big Twins," 1941-59, vol 1 describes timer cable on pages 113-114. In Vol 2, Perry has lots of photos of parts in handlebars and describes process of cleaning and replacing on pages 89-93. He gives a good tip for cutting coil wire on page 155.
3. The second edition (1945) of Nicholson's Modern MC Mechanics, page 319 has some good general tips on control cables. Of interest is they recommend "tinning" the braided wire before cutting it to prevent unraveling.
4. Rick Schunk's "How to Rebuild/Restore Classic HD Big Twins" describes installing coil and wire and has nice color photos pages 66-68.
5. There is a reprint of the early Riders Handbooks "HD Operation, Maintenance, Operation 1930-1949 Models." It discusses control cables in the Riders Handbooks for 1930-34 and 35-40 models. This reprint is still available from Harley dealers (as of Jan 2020) under PN 99407-93. It was $35.
Hope I did not overstep any bounds, but I am a book geek, love the research and sharing what I found. I know, should spend more time riding, but I am what I am.
It’s crazy that you chose today to post this video. I could’ve really used it a couple days ago, the Shovelhead Bobber project we are building at the shop I work at had the retaining clip fall off the clutch push rod so all the throwout bearing parts were inside the transmission. I figured it out but it would’ve been cool to have this as a reference.
Funny how timing works like that huh?
Yah it is. Ever notice in the shop, half your customers have clutch problems at once? Then, the next week, they all burn up voltage regulators. Go figure.
Pacific Mike haha! I have like 3 bikes to work on here in my shop this week for electrical issues!
You sure you’re not following me around or some something? 😂
In all seriousness I appreciate the reply and I seriously appreciate the fact that you post videos like these. I’m 32 now, been doing this since I was 13-14 and I cut my teeth on Twin Cams and now I’ve also pretty well got the M8 figured out, especially the EFI models. I grew up with that so I had to have help from older, more experienced techs like yourself to learn how to diagnose and repair carbs properly. The same with most of my Evo motor knowledge, I’ve gained it by watching videos like yours and Tatro Machine’s. There’s not many of you guys around that know how to work on these older bikes, this knowledge you’re archiving and sharing is absolutely invaluable and priceless in my opinion. I can’t tell you how much it means because you can’t find this kind of good, solid information from knowledgeable guys just anywhere. Especially in this day and age where everyone who thinks they are an HD tech is able to post their ideas all over forums and Facebook. It’s so nice to have people like you that are experienced, seasoned and most importantly actually practicing the art, not just a hobbyist doing it on the weekends.
I can’t say thanks enough sir.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Wow, that E-Clip flew all the way over here into Ohio.
Did not. I found it in my beard later. But, I'll toss you another one on another video.
Last E clip I had to play with wound up in the bin and a regular snap ring was in its place. I TOO prefer the Earlier style throw out bearing. I find that the later part has too many bits to screw up when you least expect it.
I agree. What I actually did find the first E clip in my beard.
I think you might have meant , 'parts to CHEW UP' ! At least that's been my experience with my Ol Shovelhead. Lol
You’re a master, and I still can’t get my baby started
What is it? What year? What carburetor? What ignition? When did it run last? How old is the gasoline? I'll play. Gimme facts.
05 Harley Dyna Super Glide Custom EFI I’ve changed plugs and battery I’m missing something
It’s an 05 Dyna Super Glide Custom EFI , I bought it a couple months ago. I brought it to the dealer who supposedly went through the whole bike. I rode 10 days ago. Got towed home, jumped it and it fired up. I left it on charge and the next day it wouldn’t start. Changed the battery which was shot and it fired up. I went to the gas station, topped my tank off stopped home and it never started again. I changed the plugs 2X , they first I pulled out were original Harley plugs.
Stephen, I'm sure that Mike won't mind me joining in, but what custom E.F.I. ? We can only offer advice if you're more specific.
Hope that helps, thank you. SARGE BULLDOG.
SARGE BULLDOG I’m not sure what you’re asking. I have a 2005 Harley Davidson Super Glide with EFI. Am I missing something because I need to be educated if I am.
Hell yea, very good video. There were a couple of head scratchers for sure, but hope you get it all figured out.
I hope so too
Another great video, Mike. Thank you.
Thank You. Glad you liked it.
Thanks for all the information. It is appreciated
Glad it was helpful!
Dang new chair , new Jean's. You know he wasnt getting dirty today. Lmao
And, there you have it.
In 1987, I had a piston pin clip (gudgeon pin in south Africa!) fly away in my garage. (Yamaha DT175) I'm still looking for it.
I heard it's somewhere in South Africa.
I would get a heck of a kick out of displaying a Pacific Mike decal on my Harley. Anything like that in the works Mike?
Thank You. It will happen.
@@pacificmike9501 Well thats great news Mike, looking forward to those!
I want one too Mike !! East Coast Canada 😈
I’m definitely a fan of that also!
@@stephenstorms6033 if we all keep on Pacific Mike he will make us some cool Ass decals. Lol. I'm with you Bro ! East Coast Canada 😈
Love that shovel I had a 75 every time I got on it something fell off but I loved it oh molly good job man !!
Thank You.
Glad you made it back thanks
Thank You.
Another great video! Thanks Mike!
Thanks for watching!
The tan looks good mike
Thank You.
Mike first of all let me compliment the quality of your videos/detail as always. I’m having trouble with my clutch adjustment locknut/flathead adjustment screw for a sportster. I’m wondering if you had in minds to make a video on that?!
I will when it comes up. What year is your Sportster? Harley made a lot of Sportsters with a lot of different clutches.
I have a ‘64 xlh. Thank you!
Hello Mike, I had to remove my exhaust pipes to access the cam chain tensioners on my Dyna. I had to use a torch to heat the nuts on the front head. So, before I put everything back together, should I use a never-seize on the threads?
I don't know where you live, but, you kinda want those nuts to take a set and not come loose, especially on a rubber mount motorcycle. Chase the threads, install new gaskets, remember to tighten those nuts after a couple heat cycles, then check them again several times. Do not overtighten, because those are already hard steel studs that have been heated and cooled a lot of times. But, "never-seize" is a wonderful product, probably not for this application.
Pacific Mike Thanks Mike. I won’t use Never-seize then. I’m not sure how to get in there and chase the threads on the studs. There isn’t much room. Is there a special tool?
Another awesome video. This is a fix I need to do. Basically the same steps if you use the old style throwout bearing isn't it?
Yes.
@@pacificmike9501 ..Thanks Man. Much appreciated.
Very good i'm working on mine now. One guy says he just put a regular snap ring on the clutch pushrod. The tabs for the snap ring pliers stick out too far and when the shaft spins they contact the operating cam on one side or the other and it gets stopped from spinning. So the snap ring is forced to not spin while the pushrod does spin. Mine was extremely loose for that. Also if the cam comes out of contact with the thrust surface it can come down on the snap ring ends and distort it. You see the kits on line with a snap ring not good. Either grind off the snap ring tabs or use the E-clip like Mike does here. You have to look in the fill plug hole to see this with a flashllight to see the issue.
That little E clip works great.
Lol sorry I forgot to say it has a 4 speed.
You probably already knew that by the question lol.
Thanks Mike
Mike, I replaced mine a couple three years ago and it already broke again. I see you can by the old style and it says "exact fit" for my 1978 FXS. Would I be better off going with this or just replacing it with the OEM like you just used in this video?
I've done both. There is a kit to put the old style throwout in a newer bike.
@@pacificmike9501 which do you think is better?
I prefer the early bearing. You'll need the kit though.
Is there any trick with a cover gasket? Any sealant needed? Thanks a bunch!
Both surfaces are machined flat and nine studs hold it. Use a good gasket and shouldn't need sealant. But, if it does, use some next time.
Thanks Mike we're going to change this bearing tomorrow
Cool.
No Gasket? Really enjoy your videos!
Look closely. It's there. Lotss of people asked the same question. I didn't forget to put it in. I forgot to mention it. I thought you could see it.
Pacific Mike Thank you. I thought I saw it and then I didn’t see it. Lol. Thanks for your videos. You have a wealth of knowledge. I really enjoy them.
Hello Mike , I put a early bearing in my late cowpie transmission but havent riden it . It seems to have adjusted correctly . What can I expect to happen ? Thank you for the great videos .
Oh, it can get jammed up in there, or, it can work fine, which is such an improvement.
Thanks...needle roller bearings?
Okay.
I have a clutch cover with an eagle and am looking for a timing cover like yours in the video with an eagle, is that still avaiable and from where ?
I doubt it. I bought it in 1978 at Harley West when I bought my new 1977 FLH. It is a Gary Bang product.
Thanks for sharing your Knowledge 💯
Thanks for watching!
Hi mike the bearing you couldn't name we call them a needle roller bearing, hope your well great video as usual aren't those e clips a pain lol 👍🇬🇧
Cool, thanks
Hey Mike, you mentioned those older style bearings getting old and making noise but still working just fine. I've got one that's pretty worn and rattle-y. Wondering if you think that needs replaced? Thanks
Afraid that's your call. They seem to go forever. Don't hold me to that. I'm not sure.
Hello my friend I have a 1992 electra glide sport and I can't unscrew the fuel cap is there a hidden lock I don't know about before I put a little more pressure regards Alan the flip top opens fine and I am sure it is the screw in type
Not to my knowledge. In fact, the threads on the cap should be plastic, if it's an original cap.
@@pacificmike9501 it's okay it was exactly what I thought but I wanted to make sure before I wrenched on it it's out and I had the Good sense to order another from America just in case but it is all safe just waiting for the fuel cap regards my friend Alan from across the pond
Hay Mike, I tried to adjust my clutch basket so belt stops waring. But now have to do it with your suggestion to put a spacer on the main shaft. But now it’s going to put the starter gear ⚙️ farther away from the ring gear ⚙️ in which they barely catch as it is already. I was wondering 💭 if I can put a spacer on the jack shaft so that it would put the starter gear closer to ring gear ⚙️ ? Confused 🤷♂️
Chances are, the starter jackshaft is not coming out far enough. Check to see if the lever that engages the jackshaft is bent or if the plate the jackshaft comes through is bent. That plate is the most common to get damaged and is readily available through the suppliers of parts for early bikes. I'm assuming you're working a Shovelhead, either FL or FX. You didn't tell me what the bike is.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes 1980 FXWG Shovelhead Mike. I will check all of this. It’s been going on for to long now. Thanks 🙏 Mike. I love your work and video’s
Thank You. I'll be interested to hear from you. Sometimes it gets difficult to explain without seeing it. But, working properly, that jackshaft moves quite a distance. Sometimes, it gets limited by the outer end because the bearing in the outer primary is from the wrong model. Check against another unit or two that the depth of that outer bearing is in the right place. And, don't forget the bronze washer.
MIKE!!! thanks so much for the videos. I appreciate your mentorship.
I just replaced my second throwout bearing in 2 days. This is super discouraging. I have a 75 FLH (now a swingarm chopper) with matching trani. It's late 75 so it has the late style oil slinger. I'm thinking about running the old witch hat slinger. What are your thoughts on this? I really don't want to take this apart again for a while after I replace it. - More info: I installed the entire kit like you did in this video. I have the adjustment screw adjusted properly. (Screwed in until you can feel pressure then back off ~1/4 turn.) My spring plate is 1 1/32. Everything should be good. What are your thoughts??
It sounds like something else is wrong, maybe the angle of the clutch arm. Maybe you're running the cable too tight. I don't mean to offend, but I treat myself the same way. I start over and go all the way through. Something is hanging up somewhere. Once you figure that out, step up. There is a kit that allows you to install the early throwout bearing in your transmission. It includes the bearing, the pushrod and kicker gear for the early bearing to ride on. The major suppliers of aftermarket parts for old Harleys carry them. The old setup was really hard to wear out.
@@pacificmike9501 Thank you for the advice. I didn't think I was running the clutch rod and spring plate too tight but I was. I started over and now seems to be running great. If I burn it up again, you bet I will be using the old style bearing. Thanks again Mike! -JP
Another good video....I was trying to remember what the type of bearing it's called too....Is it a Torrington bearing?...just a guess.
Bearing
Read the comments above. I'm staying neutral.
Allison transmissions use that type of bearing and do indeed call it a Torrington Bearing.
Good afternoon Mike very nice video we have a 1985 lowrider with a 4-speed transmission we are getting some noise when we pull in the clutch then the noise goes away after the transmission stops spinning from the engine with the clutch still pulled in would that throwout bearing be the culprit or would it be the main pilot bearing obviously we're going to check the fluids and whatnot here first but I'm suspecting it's either one of those. Thank you again for all that you do we have learned so much from you see you out on the road
It can be the throwout bearing, the clutch basket bearing, the mainshaft bearing in the inner primary housing, or a couple more possibilities.
@@pacificmike9501 well thank you Mike for the quick response we will have a look at it.
Excellent lesson,,,thanks!
Thank You.
Another great video, thanks for sharing :)
Thanks for watching!
Knowledge is Gold. 420
Cool.
Hey Mike love the vids I have an 84 flh 5speed evo it's the one with the diamond shaped side cover very similar mechanism to the one you just installed . My one didn't have a slinger on it and I don't know if it should have one or not what do you think ?Its seen a lot of reaching by previous owners over the years and info on this model is limited, any help would be great thanks
I'm honestly not sure, probably not. What I do remember is that we needed to add a little oil to the trans with the very early 5 speeds to keep from burning up the throw out bearing. I think that answers it.
@@pacificmike9501 no prob thanks Mike 👍
Mike, I have a footclutch, I wrecked my throw-out bearing now for the second time (Primo_Ventura clutch) would you suggest to upgrade to a LATE STYLE THROWOUT BEARING KIT?
What is the bike? Is this a four speed? If so, you're probably moving the bearing too far with your pedal. Restrict the movement. I assume you're using a suicide pedal. You gotta give me more info with the question.
@@pacificmike9501 it’s a four speed! In combination with a Panhead engine.1.5” open belt with a primo/ ventura clutch. I’m using a foot clutch pedal (I can take my foot of while engaged at a red light) not a suicide clutch.
@@pacificmike9501 restricting the movement might be the solution
Sounds like it. You're probably smashing it. Maybe too long a clutch rod (internal). Might cause you to move the arm too far.
@@pacificmike9501 I use a 14” rod, I could cut 1/4 “ off using the lathe! Thanks for the feedback! I will keep using the old style throw-out bearing one then.
When are Pacific Mike shirts coming out?
Wow! Thank You. We'll get there.
👍😊
Mike a few days ago a buddy came by with his 1980 shovelhead and asked me if I would adjust his clutch . At the age of 70 he's a newbie to harley's and he did try to adjust it in himself . The clutch lever would only pull in about a half way and then it was solid. I took all the slack out of the cable and removed the derby cover . the adjusting screw lockdown nut I could remove with my fingers but the adjusting screw was another matter. It took a big screwdriver and all the strength in my old arms to back of the adjusting screw. When I got it out the Treads at the end of the adusting were chewed up and the ball bearing was embedded in the adjusting screw . The clutch operating pushrod is probably toast as well. just wondering what I should do next to try and fix this problem ? Thanks
First off, the adjusting screw with a ball bearing in the end of it is an aftermarket piece that I've seen a lot of and replaced a lot of. I don't know that it's a bad idea, but not one of my favorites. Personally, I would replace the adjusting screw with an original type and replace the clutch rod. They are probably both bad. You'll have to open the right side and do the throwout bearing at the same time. Clean and adjust the whole clutch. Remember, you're adjusting a 1980 model with the rotary top on the trans. According to the service manual, back off all tension on the clutch cable and set the adjusting screw to put the clutcharm (while you pull the cable with your hand, so you can locate the clutch arm at rest 13/16" from the top of the trans lid. And remember, "No good deed goes unpunished." You're a good guy.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you very much Mike for getting back to me so fast I really appreciate it. Thank you so much for your instructions. I'll let you know out everything turns out when I get it finished. Stay safe and thanks again Mike
Can You show taking the kicker cover off?.
So We don't have springs and gadgets flying out everywhere.
Thanks We Love Your Channel,
Bethany ♥️
Look at "Building a Kickstarter for the Flathead 80." It's the same as the newer ones. Big twin four speed kickstarters are pretty much the same. There are a few updated parts. Be sure you buy parts for your year and model. It's easier to go through our list of videos on a computer as opposed to a phone.
How much pressure should be on the pressure plate of an 80 shovelhead? How do I know it it is to tight or to loose?
Do it according to the manual. This is in linear measurements, not a pressure you can measure. You didn't mention a problem. Is your clutch slipping? Are the plates all clean and set up properly? Have you overpowered your stock clutch? Sure has happened to me. Maybe better parts, clutch plates, springs, you need to tell more. I'll help if I can.
I noticed a nice 6'' vise behind you, Mike. May I ask you what brand is it? I have similar, but 4'' and I'm not sure about that origin of that thing.
I've had it for ages. It's actually from China.