Thank you for the helpful video. Two remarks: 1. Measuring voltage on the fuses makes little sense as both sides of the fuse are galvanicly connected. 2. I have the same problem and I suggest you to switch on the cabin lights, then switch them off. Check whether the current is higher, if so check the CCU fuse number 43 (taking off and reinserting the fuse made the current return to normal). From what I'm observing on forums it's a common fault of the CCU module and thus draining current.
I have the 2.0 mpi since 2005 and i cannot let the car still for more than 2 weeks cos it will drain the battery. The roadhelp once tested and concluded i have 3 computers in the car witch draw 4 mA each so 12 mA in total when the car is in rest. This is allready enough to drain the battery after some weaks in rest. Modern cars have this thats why the roadhelp does good business at airports.
I'm still not sure on this one as yet. The instrument cluster keeps failing on connection issues so I'm thinking it could be more dry solder joints, but I'm reluctant not to brick the thing and have to replace it as this is not straight forward and haven't done it before. If I change it out for another one I will need to recode/adapt it etc with vagcom :-)
hi there I am having problems with my 2011 skoda fabia estate and none of the garages is willing to even diagnose the issue, I am seriously in a soup. my car makes a grinding noise when i am turning the steering to make a 5 point turn or a U turn, and one more problem that is there is my climate control unit blower is not switching off it is always on and blowing air. i am really frustrated with these 2 problems. can you kindly suggest a solution please
/have a look at:th-cam.com/video/RtstXOdLFCo/w-d-xo.html is this the same noise? or the other thing is the CV joints are worn. Fan: th-cam.com/video/X0a0_x7q5aY/w-d-xo.html
It is Sensor Ground, bypassing power ground, for various control units. As far as i i know disconnecting it only causes Central Electric Unit to throw fault (low battery voltage, or something like that) visible only by diagnostics. It is posible that disconnecting this wire will cause some units to messasure wrong values when power draw is high, but otherwise car doesnt need this to work properly.
I think you should have stated that after you fooled the door and bonnet to be closed you need to lock the car then wait half hour for the car functikns to go into sleep mode. What you are trying to do with the voltage drop test across the fuse is to detect a current draw VW bulletin offers a detailed table which will calculate your measured voltage drop ( per fuse size ) to an aprox current draw This is ok in theory but there are many variables in here, like corrosion on the fuse tabs battery terminals and general poor wiring This system however is designed to give you a possible clue as to which circuit is not going to sleep correctly Things such as the satnav , door motor modules , alternators TBH first thing I would do is put the ammeter setting across the battery to battery wiring , fool the doors / bonnet to thinking they are locked , then lock the car Then measure the amp drain and watch what the current does over half an hour Least you get a starting point of how many amps draw you have and you can at least work out how many hours you can leave the car without running it Then move to the voltage drol test The problem with pulling out fuses to test is you make then wake the car systems up and give false readings
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this, especially the many variables that need to be taken into consideration, especially with aging wiring. @4:22 I talk about putting the car into sleep/hibernation mode, which should have gone at the beginning really :-)
Thank you for the helpful video. Two remarks:
1. Measuring voltage on the fuses makes little sense as both sides of the fuse are galvanicly connected.
2. I have the same problem and I suggest you to switch on the cabin lights, then switch them off. Check whether the current is higher, if so check the CCU fuse number 43 (taking off and reinserting the fuse made the current return to normal). From what I'm observing on forums it's a common fault of the CCU module and thus draining current.
Thanks for sharing that, I will check that out :-)
I have the 2.0 mpi since 2005 and i cannot let the car still for more than 2 weeks cos it will drain the battery. The roadhelp once tested and concluded i have 3 computers in the car witch draw 4 mA each so 12 mA in total when the car is in rest. This is allready enough to drain the battery after some weaks in rest. Modern cars have this thats why the roadhelp does good business at airports.
Really useful thank you, Cheers, Chris
what was the reason for the power consumption? Do you find that ?
I'm still not sure on this one as yet. The instrument cluster keeps failing on connection issues so I'm thinking it could be more dry solder joints, but I'm reluctant not to brick the thing and have to replace it as this is not straight forward and haven't done it before. If I change it out for another one I will need to recode/adapt it etc with vagcom :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey Thanks for answer. Yes can be dry solder joints.
Good video 😊
Thanks 😁
hi there I am having problems with my 2011 skoda fabia estate and none of the garages is willing to even diagnose the issue, I am seriously in a soup. my car makes a grinding noise when i am turning the steering to make a 5 point turn or a U turn, and one more problem that is there is my climate control unit blower is not switching off it is always on and blowing air. i am really frustrated with these 2 problems. can you kindly suggest a solution please
/have a look at:th-cam.com/video/RtstXOdLFCo/w-d-xo.html is this the same noise? or the other thing is the CV joints are worn. Fan: th-cam.com/video/X0a0_x7q5aY/w-d-xo.html
Great video, as always. Lovely crocs, the highlight of this video. 😊
Where else could you search though? Looking forward fot the next vid.
Many thanks, I'll tell the wife, fuses on battery cover :-)
My Fabia also has a little wire in the negative terminal that I do not know the purpose. Maybe that one?
It is Sensor Ground, bypassing power ground, for various control units. As far as i i know disconnecting it only causes Central Electric Unit to throw fault (low battery voltage, or something like that) visible only by diagnostics. It is posible that disconnecting this wire will cause some units to messasure wrong values when power draw is high, but otherwise car doesnt need this to work properly.
T18 earth for system control unit, run as 'pure earth' voltage sensing without interference.
Pefect thanks
Merci beaucoup 😊
je vous en prie :-)
I think you should have stated that after you fooled the door and bonnet to be closed you need to lock the car then wait half hour for the car functikns to go into sleep mode.
What you are trying to do with the voltage drop test across the fuse is to detect a current draw
VW bulletin offers a detailed table which will calculate your measured voltage drop ( per fuse size ) to an aprox current draw
This is ok in theory but there are many variables in here, like corrosion on the fuse tabs battery terminals and general poor wiring
This system however is designed to give you a possible clue as to which circuit is not going to sleep correctly
Things such as the satnav , door motor modules , alternators
TBH first thing I would do is put the ammeter setting across the battery to battery wiring , fool the doors / bonnet to thinking they are locked , then lock the car
Then measure the amp drain and watch what the current does over half an hour
Least you get a starting point of how many amps draw you have and you can at least work out how many hours you can leave the car without running it
Then move to the voltage drol test
The problem with pulling out fuses to test is you make then wake the car systems up and give false readings
Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this, especially the many variables that need to be taken into consideration, especially with aging wiring. @4:22 I talk about putting the car into sleep/hibernation mode, which should have gone at the beginning really :-)
@@HatBoyHarvey I might add lock the car by remote before you disconnect battery and use multimeter or you may blow up your multimeter