This Experiment Saved Me Hours Of Hand Sanding
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ต.ค. 2024
- We are testing which brand of sandpaper will get the job done the fastest for hand sanding. We chose what we thought were 2 major brands (3M, Rhynowet) and then a small filler brand (MasterPRO found at O'Reilly). The winner will SURPRISE YOU! I know it did me...
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About Me
“The world needs more makers.” ~ RoyerX
Being from a family of creatives whose motto was to produce not to consume was etched into Kyle from a very early age and being educated at home gave him many opportunities to work hard at his own creative pursuits.
At eighteen, Kyle graduated high school and two weeks later received his Journeyman Smith Stamp and a rare double win of the George Peck Award and Bill Moran Award, “the 18-year-old prodigy”, “the blazing bladesmith” was what BLADE Magazine labeled him. Following that victory in November, 2009 BLADE Magazine ran a special five page spread “That Young and That Good”, the article went on to say “His ability to masterfully execute new designs, processes and artistic damascus patterns is remarkable. In spite of his young age, his fit/finish and attention to detail is representative of some of todays most known and sought after makers.” He was one of two to achieve Mastersmith by the age of twenty. His knives and his skills are highly sought after worldwide.
In the early years, if you weren’t at a knife show or a hammer-in, learning from the masters, information was hard to find, there was no online content and only a few books and videos, so it was a lot of trial and error in the knife shop. Kyle is passionate to teach makers his more than fourteen years of experience.
“The mediocre teacher tells. The good teacher explains. The superior teacher demonstrates. The great teacher inspires.” We hope we can inspire you on your maker’s journey.
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let me know what brand of sandpaper you use. :)
I use norton A275 no-fil dry paper, and i like a lot.
Here in Brazil i compare this paper with indasa rhyno and 3m gold.
PRICE/ SHEET COUNT? brother, you must include the price along with sheet count. A sanding paper that costs 3x as much but does only a 50% better job is not more appealing than a paper that costs 25% less & does a good job for same amount of sheets. Price & sheet count is a huge factor, especially for hobbyists that cannot write off consumables as 'business expense'.
I use sungold abrasive sandpaper.
Rhynowet and norton black ice. My favorite is the rhynowet (i have some klingspor but i think this is the worst paper for knifemaking... even though i use it for years😅)
I use SAIT, in italy we have 3m and sait, i prefer sait.
The other two you have used i cant find here, the masterpro is amazing.
You start to use this kind or continue with 3m?
This is why I love Royer. He held 3m to his heart for years and at the drop of a hat he is ready to abandon them because of reason and deductive research. If it works see why it works and make it better and so on. Keep the science alive!!
Hey thanks andrew
Old Royer dogs can learn new tricks
🤪🥊
Dad
Right on. I have never understood "brand loyalty" in this sort of thing. It's downright bizarre to me that many people get emotionally attached to one kind of sandpaper or belts or whatever.
Look at all this community... over sandpaper...🤣❤❤
I'm absolutely confident Kyle already knows this, but for those without his experience, the Number One Key to Hand-Sanding is:
Good technique on the grinder. The first steps are always the most important. If your grinds are even and consistent coming off the belts and you didn't leave 60 grit scratches among your 120 finish before moving on to 220 (or whatever), everything from there will go very smoothly. If you rush things on the grinder, you'll drive yourself crazy and wear out your elbows hand-sanding, wasting a ton of time chasing out waves and deep scratches. Don't be afraid to go back to the grinder for a couple passes if your hand-sanding shows a problem.
The number two key is: if you want a 600 grit finish, hand-sand to 800. Then clean the blade and make one last pass with DRY fresh 600 paper, pulling in one direction only. Very, very crisp results that way. Whatever final finish you want, spend a couple minutes to go one grit higher and then come back... you won't regret it.
The number three key is: synthetic motor oil. It's almost spooky how well it works compared to water or windex or anything else for hand-sanding. Apparently it keeps the swarf in suspension better, which reduces the swarf putting more off-pattern scratches on the steel as you work on it.
Following those three tips, especially the first one, will REALLY save you time. Not half a minute here and there, but sometimes hours. Beginners sometimes spend all dang day hand-sanding out a dip...
I've been using 3M for almost 10 years and I've sworn by it many times as well. This was definently an eye opener! Thanks for taking the hit for us all and doing the experiment. Truly helps, thanks Kyle. Your blades are what I strive to achive one day, truly a masterpiece
Hey thanks Mat
You keep digging
Tap the brakes and ease back into it
Whatever the challenge is
Dad
Wow, didn't realize generic sandpaper could be costing me so much time. Hello MasterPRO -- Excellent contribution - MS Kyle Royer !!!!
Changing the angle with the grit is a great idea.
Copy that
Changing the angle with the grit is absolutely essential. You will ALWAYS get a cleaner, crisper finish that way. It's very very easy for deeper scratches to "hide" among the finer ones if they're all going the same way, and that makes a finish look dull and sort of cloudy no matter what brand of paper you're using.
Try it. Sand a blade all in the same direction right up to your finish grit, then go back across it with 400. All sorts of ugly things you thought you got rid of will jump right out at you.
With a little experience you'll be able to look at a blade and tell right away whether or not the maker switched directions between grits. It really makes a *big* difference.
Great test. I've found the best combo for me is Rhynowet 220/400/600 (using WD40 for lube) then Black Ice 1000/1200/1500/2000 and up (using Windex for lube). You're right in assessing that while Rhynowet cuts great at lower grits (and builds up less), it isn't as fine as claimed in the grits above 600. It's a good cutter, not a good finisher. Black Ice loads up slowly but still provides a clean and fine finish in the higher grits. I'm going to look into Master Pro now thanks to you. Here's hoping that it's also a cost savings...
For those wondering why WD40 then Windex: WD40 helps to cut better, so at lower grits, it's very effective. It also helps penetrate the steel and add a little corrosion resistance while you're still working the steel. Particularly beneficial if you're bouncing from project to project and you let this half sanded blade sit around in a humid shop for any length of time before finishing. Windex when used on higher grits performs well as a lube and adds a nice sheen to the steel as you're working it.
Hey thanks Jim
Good info
Team Royer
I just had a thought and it may take a couple more tests between Master Pro and 3M with different batches of paper.
I noticed the comparison of different grits among the brands regarding performance variation.
Perhaps the more optimal sanding "kit" would be a bastardized combination of Master Pro from 250-600 and 3M for 1000 and higher.
Whatever helps shave some time off. Great intro on the video by the way. 👍
I've always used a combo of 3m and master pro I work for O'Reilly's so it's cheap and convenient for me!
I am seriously obsessed with sanding blades or anything metal. I LOVE MAKING THINGS SHINY!!!!!!!!!!
Do y'all watch Project Farm? Its like consumer reports for Maker folk. Also he isn't sponsored and buys all the products himself.
No not yet
Thanks for the heads up Dan
Dad
I was just about to comment the same. I love project farm!
@@1BoneChip1 same!
Gator and 3M , i watch your videos with my 10 month old son (when he'll sit still lol) in any case we love your videos and thanks for sharing the knowledge we'll be trying masterpro , have a great day
Hey thanks Robert
It’s never too early to start getting tools for your kiddos
Love it
Tell your son “poppy “ says hey!
That’s what my grandkids call me
Dad
It's not mentioned in the video but it's an interesting data-point that the total sandpaper sections used across all tests (Including the bonus) were: MasterPro-21, Rhinowet-37, 3M-38.
Nice! It is funny but the video made it look like the 3M 1000 grit finish was substantially shiner. It looked mirror like and you could really see the reflection of your hand.
3m has a real consistent grit 👍🏻☕️🔥⚔️
Dad
I love so much these independent tests...
Hey TheChzoronzon
We learned a lot
Good times
Dad
My only complaint is that I would have liked to see 3 tests per paper and grit. It would have taken a lot longer but you could then average it out and remove any possible inconsistencies
looking at the times and sections needed to sand each grit. it looks like the best combination would be to go:
3M-220
Master Pro-320
Master Pro-600
Master Pro-1000
This combination saves you the most time, uses the fewest sections of sandpaper, and at the end results in the best 1000 grit finish. It might be even better to buy bulk 3M 220 grit and also buy bulk Master Pro for the rest of your grits.
One thing to test as well is the backer that is used, in my experience with other sandpaper other than 3M is that they have thicker backers and dont form as easy after soaking it in water.
Good observation Anibal
Glad you’re here
Team Royer
Interesting test, great results!
Thank you!
I tend to alternate going tip to tang then edge to spine when i hand sand... however I prefer using stones from 120 to 1000 then switch to paper, starting at 1000 grit.
Okay I know this is very much off topic from sandpaper but please make a series of you making the black beauty fighter . TH-cam needs this
Thanks we are
Team Royer
Did you make that sanding stick or buy it? it looks very nice to use!
We make them for ourselves. We have many different types made from many different materials.
Chao
Dad
I was shocked, really. Thanks it was awesome, but in Russia we got only 3M, smirdex and mirka for hand sending. It will be very interesting to test this abrasive.
Go try it and let us know how it goes with you
Cheers to Russia from the Ozarks
Team Royer
Very interesting test. I have bounced through sand paper (Dura Gold, local box store, Ace, etc.) for my hand sanding and have ended up at Rhynowet (220 - 2500). Have never used MasterPro though. Might have to give it a try. Also, it would be nice to see this test on other steels as a comparison as well, since different steels (80CRV2, CPM-4V, etc.) will have different alloys that might have an effect on the sandpaper. It would be nice too to see a price comparison between them as well to see price vs. time. I actually like hand sanding so maybe I am part masochist but I find pleasure in watching the finish improve from grit to grit. If this time test holds true with other steels then it might be good to to have a few different brands and grits in your supply depending on what steels you are sanding and what finish you are shooting for. Great test. Would like to see this same test on other steels at some point.
Yup got some in the shop
The name 3m is a staple in manufacturing and construction, Ive used it for all of my sanding needs and also have many other 3m products that I really love, that being said Im gunna see if I can find some Master Pro sand paper now haha.
Make a bonus round with the best and worst of each category, mixing the brands.
Awesome test! If you find master pro in sheets please let us know where!
Hey Red
Got a nickel says O’Reilly can get it
Team Royer
@@KyleRoyerKnives Cheers man, I'll have to go talk to them. You mean by special request right?
Maybe Red
It might depend on what kind of local industry may make it in demand
That local industry may be you
I’ve gotten a local Meeks to stock special fasteners, by golly other contractors started buying them
Good luck
Keep Forging On
Dad
@@KyleRoyerKnives Thank you sir!
Try Sankyo sandpaper the electrostatically Orient the top points up it cuts super sharp at the beginning but gives you even where all the way through and when it quits you know it
Great video Josh, and testing Kyle, thank you!
Great tests Kyle! I certainly appreciate your efforts here and will be goin for MasterPro from now on! God bless you and your family🙏👍
Hey thanks b80
May God bless you and your crew also
Chao
Dad
I always use 3M. For some strange reason I (luckily) enjoy sanding. Must be some zen thing. I will have to give Masterpro a try.
Hey go for it Matt
Let us know how it goes for you
Team Royer
How's that going a year later? Lots of people love the zen thing of hand-sanding... at first. In my experience the fun wore off pretty quick after a couple dozen blades ;)
Great video. I never even considered differences in paper brands, this could explain some of the issues I have between the 320 rhino wet I use, and the 600 3m. Guess I’ll need to stop depending on local hardware stores and start buying online.
Hey thanks Benjamin
Try your best to buy local
👍🏻⚔️
Team Royer
Hardware stores seldom carry the best of anything, especially the big national chain stores. For papers you'll likely have better luck at a store that caters to professional painters or auto-body repair. Even an Auto-Zone or similar sometimes has nice quality sandpaper.
Great video Kyle! Glad I have been putting off falling into the "man, you guys have got to switch to Rhino wet sandpaper" deal. Been using 3M for nearly everything forever and especially when I started making knives. I love it and get attached and loyal as well. However, I will be picking up a selection of the Master Pro sandpaper to try it out. Thanks again,
r/
Wayne
Hey thanks Wayne
Good times
Team Royer
The Rhyno-Wet thing was weird (apparently it still is). A couple famous makers decided they liked it and BLAMMO all of a sudden it was "the only paper that's any good at all" LOL. Personally, I wasn't particularly impressed. There's nothing really wrong with it, I just didn't see it being really noticeably better than other brands.
Hype and follow-the-leader is a big, big thing the knifemaking world.
Love videos like this, thanks for putting the time into doing this guys!
Thanks Razor
Kyle
Howdy Kyle, I use Norton 180, 240, then Duragold from Amazon all the way up to 2000 then 3000 3M. Duragold is pretty cheap but very consistent and makes it a mirror at 2000-2500 with no buffer versus 3m 3000. I like how you approached your process though. Well done.
Hey thanks for the heads up brythe
Good info
Team Royer
Hey, ik this is a stupid question, but...where do you get a sanding stick? Thanks
Nice testing metrics. Looks like I'll be getting some Master Pro paper to check out. ✌
I would like to know where I can get the tool you use for hand sanding?
Most O'reilly auto parts stores will sell in bulk. Since you have a business set up a commercial account and go to the back counter at your local store. They have some fantastic stuff they only market to commercial accounts. BTW doesn't matter if it is automotive business or not, only that it is a business.
Thanks Sanguine
Good tip
We’re going to check it out
Dad
Should use the grit from each brand that performed best so you can cut your total time down.
Been using 3M for a long time. But will Master Pro. Thanks for the info.
Let us know how goes with you
Thanks JR
What was the price difference?
Thank u Kyle! This will help a lot! Hope u had a happy Fourth of July!
Have you talked to your local 3M rep. 3M has hundreds of different types of abrasives in the same grit, a mixture of different backing materials, grain types, coatings, backing materials and backing thicknesses. If you just order in a store or online without discussing with a local rep you are blindly choosing an abrasive you hope to work.
Rhino by Indasa is a great abrasive, I have sold quite a bit of both 3M and Indasa abrasives. I would also check out Norton by Saint Gobain.
Finally addressing what the people really want to know! Just kidding you guys always bring the fun
What did you use for your sanding bar?
Nice vid, thanks for share, have you ever used gesswein o boride finishing stones instead of sand paper?
Hey thanks Roberto
Not yet
Chao
Dad
whats the hand sanding stick you have or did you make it?
Good question my friend. Made it from a piece of tight grained hard wood. Can’t remember the specific name. We also use steel sticks. Good to have you here adam 👍🏻☕️🔥⚔️
Dad
Great test!! Now that a year+ has, what brand are you using? Didn't find bulk paper available on the O'Reilly's site. Thank You!
According to your tests, it looks to me like you should still use 3M's 220 grit, and switch to the Master Pro for the others. Also might I recommend a microscope for inspecting the scratches. Might yield more accurate results.
Holy moly, i mean i how much easier would i be to just use lapping compound on a flat piece of glass?
Interesting review - I wish you also had Norton results. I did a few loosely scientific tests years ago for my woodworking and it performed well so I just stuck with that when I started getting into knives. I'm pretty brand loyal as well, but if there is a better option for hand sanding then I'm listening!
Hey thanks Richard
Go check out Master Pro
Wet Dry
🔥☕️⚔️
Team Royer
That was interesting and informative. Thank you!
Thanks fizzix4
🔥☕️⚔️
Very interesting test, I’d love to see more of this. I really can only get 3M locally, and I’ve always wondered if I could get something better.
Hey Lucas put it to the test and see how yours comes out. Good to have you hanging out with us. 👍🏻🔥☕️⚔️
Dad
i've always used 3M also, for general auto body work and da sanding to/on bare metal the mirka abronet discs and strips last a very long time not sure if you can get them where you are.
they have an aluminium/net construction
Thanks messylaura
Be careful and be safe
Cheers
Team Royer
some 3M but mainly klingspar
That was an eye opener! I use Klingspor, sadly we can't get Masterpro here in the UK or I'd be checking it out. Also I love the light up eyes on Mini-Vader!
Hey Modo
Thanks
Team Royer
There are way too many variables not taking into consideration. The type of grit used, the bonding method, The backing material, included binders, and many more aspects play into it. Just because you’re using two different brands of The same grit and chemistry paper, isn’t a fair comparison.
All companies including 3m have dozens of different types of paper in each category of mineral. Aluminum oxide, zirconia, carbide, ceramic, Garnet, and many others.
Not knocking your test but trying to give a bit more insight
Klingspor is probably the best brand I found. And I spent thousands on sandpaper every year. 98% is used with hardened steal and other metalworking tasks. I Don’t use much sandpaper in my woodworking business, as I use blades and scrapers for finishing.
@@hullinstruments I agree, it's a very VERY brief and incomplete "experiment." Sort of interesting, but not really conclusive at all.
i think time should not matter. the more time it takes the better the result. i enjoy sanding a lot, relaxes me. am i crazy?
Hey Un
I hear you
I’ve heard it also related to gardening 👍🏻🔥🗡
Team Royer
Kyle, did you ever source Masterpro in rolls or wholesale??
Dude what a great video and a lot of work, well done you deserve my subscription!!
Hey thanks my friend. Good to have you here hanging out with us all Huntin . Glad you’re enjoying the vids. 👍🏻🔥🗡
Dad
I have a question that’s completely irrelevant, I wanna get a press for Damascus what is a good budget friendly press you would recommend if there is one and can I use a regular press and modify or does it have to be labeled forge press? Thanks Huntin Trail
Hey Huntin we built ours from scratch. Couldn’t find the one we wanted back in the day. Ours has potential of around 60 ton, but we have it featured back to around 30 ton . I’m guessing our frame will handle maybe 100+ tonsThis is enough to ruin your billet. I put foot and hand controls and on it first thing. Hands free increases billet control and quality. If you get one with just hand you can add foot controls easy enough. Kyle said to check out Anyang . If there’s anything else we may help you with just give us a shout out. Cheers.
Dad
I thank you guys for being so genuine and helpful. I really appreciate the help. Thanks, Huntin Trail
Was there a big price difference?
Sometimes I need to go slower than faster so knowing this info in great
Indasa also make silicon carbide rhynowet “plus line” at 1k grit and up. It cuts and polishes abrasion resistant steels like W2 very nicely. I use it to prep for hamon etching. Normal rhynowet red sheets are aluminum oxide up to 1200 grit. But you can get a finer finish with the plus line at 1,000 grit.
Hey Kyle. Not sure if you will see this but i have been trying to make demascus from o1 and old circular saw mill blades(no carbide tips, i think they are 15n20). Im new to forging/ demascus. I think i have the cleaning process and initial weld heat down because i seem to get things to stick but in the process of drawing out the stock i develop delaminations. I was wondering if you have attempted such a combination or if you had any wise words of wisdom for a beginner
Hey Ian
Good to hear from you
If you’re finding delamination in your billet ,got to question if it’s getting welded initially
The saw blades have a proprietary recipe of the steel
It would be very difficult to know what they are made with
Small variations of any one part of composition could make forge welding very difficult
Had similar challenges way way back in the day
Buying certified store bought steel takes most of those variables out
And frustration out
If you can buy certified steel, you will find yourself concentrating on the next important aspect of your knife making that you want to improve
Knife shows usually have the best prices and arability
Glad you’re hanging out with us all
Team Royer/Kyle
@@KyleRoyerKnives thanks for getting back to me! Much appreciated!
what is that sanding stick? A piece of carved wood?
There are way too many variables not taking into consideration. The type of grit used, the bonding method, The backing material, included binders, and many more aspects play into it. Just because you’re using two different brands of The same grit and chemistry paper, isn’t a fair comparison.
All companies including 3m have dozens of different types of paper in each category of mineral. Aluminum oxide, zirconia, carbide, ceramic, Garnet, and many others.
Not knocking your test but trying to give a bit more insight
Klingspor is probably the best brand I found. And I spent thousands on sandpaper every year. 98% is used with hardened steal and other metalworking tasks. I Don’t use much sandpaper in my woodworking business, as I use blades and scrapers for finishing.
I would like to see how norton prosand, and the 3m trizact, or trimite compare.
I haven't finished the video yet, but I would be interested to see how each of the final finishes look.
Edit: I would be 3ms 800 is equal to the other brands 1000.
Sounds good blank. Go for it and let us know how it goes with you my friend. Keep Forging On
Dad
@@KyleRoyerKnives sure thing. Maybe if I do decide to actually test it. I could make a video like the one you did. I only have a phone, so it will definitely be much worse than yours.
Wow Kyle you made a 15 minute video on sandpaper, which was actually interesting! 😂
👍🏻🤪😎☕️⚔️
What's the rod that you're wrapping the sand paper around?
We use several types of sanding sticks. Metal,wood, and synthetic. Also different shapes. Good question my friend
Dad
3M is much higher quality and finer product. That is the reason why 1000 grit took so long from 600 grit. This proves it by how the finish on the 3M with 1000 was compared to the rest. For removing material, coarse and lower quality sand paper is fine since the point is to remove materials. When it comes to removing surface imperfections, 3M is the way to go. I think if you try 800 grit then 1000, it would reduce the time sanding and you will most likely have the finish as 1000 grit with other sand paper brands.
use 3m for the 220, masterpro the rest and then for final finish, back to 3m
Good info!
👍🏻😎🍦🗡🤪☕️🔥
Omg the mailman 😂
N =1 and unblinded, not super convincing but still thanks for creating this!!!!
Thats kewel, cause that gator ,g2 paper is what I've been using 4 my bladesmithing career (2yrs) lol , I get it from ace hardware ....thank u royer family peace , love and Gb
👍🏻😎🗡☕️
Did you make your sanding stick or buy it?
Hey Ouroboros
Made it
great video. not a very controlled experiment, but still informative and lots to think about. have you considered not sticking to one brand for all grits, and instead picking and choosing the winners of your experiment results by grit? i think that could be a GREAT follow up experiment to this one. also, i dont think your thumbnail is fair to 3m LOL since 3m did win in one of the grits. maybe you should have had a thumbs up next to the masterpro logo?
oh yeah, i use DEERFOS (cloth back) and DAESUNG (paper back) sandpaper, both korean brands, no other reason than the fact that i live in korea, they are the easiest to find
It’s nice to be able to purchase from one source. We do mix it up just a little. We have over a dozen grits and adding more
Glad you’re here hanging out with us all my friend
Dad
Where do I get a sanding stick like that at?
Good question Richardo. We just made ours from wood and steel laying around.
Be safe and be careful my friend
Dad
Hi Royer team, for me it's Smirdex from Greece, i tried two different brands lately and i will return to Smirdex on my next knives. It might be hard to find in US.
Also did u found that higher grit paper, that Kyle mention in one of previous video? Smirdex makes up to 4000 grit. If i get a chance, i will try send some papers on test, u deserve it for ur knowledge u share with us and im curious on pro verdict on it. Also u can try Micro Mesh that goes up to 12000 grit, buy it in roles, but idk how it will work on steel.
Thank you
Hey Lukas
It’s great to have you hanging out with us all
Thanks for the info
Team Royer
The forge is with us.
Always... ;)
But which one leaves the most uniform and clean finish for a hand rubbed finish? 😁. This was very interesting, I always enjoy seeing these kinds of tests. Great content and thanks as always for sharing, Lyle! ;) lol
Hey thanks ‘Taul’
🤭👍🏻🔥🔪
Team Royer
KyleRoyerKnives - lol touché
A 50 pack of 3m is $75, where as rhynowet is only $27. So a sheet of 3m is $1.50 and a sheet of rhynowet is $.54. Food for thought.
3M papers are kind of over-rated in general. I suspect the high cost is just a function of them advertising a lot, and the fact that they're the most widely-known brand in America, so people assume it must be the best stuff, so they're willing to pay more for it.
Your point is an excellent one that most people never think of it... if you're saving a couple minutes per blade but spending 2 or 3 times as much money per blade, at the end of the year is that really a savings?
So, if you use the 3M 220, the Master Pro 320 and 600, and finish with the Rhyno 1000 grit, you end up saving an extra 0:20 over going with just a single brand. An excellent experiment that will save you years' worth of effort over your career.
Edit: That being said, you should have repeated the experiment a second time just to be sure your results were consistent.
Go for it my friend and let us know how it goes with you. Just a fun experiment. We use mostly Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing. The important thing is to find what you like , be willing to look at other stuff, and go with it. Glad you’re here hanging out with us.
Cheers my friend
Dad
Ekament blue - mostly on wood, but other types of ekament is available. You boffins should really try it.. Regards from South Africa, Hennie
Hey Hennie
Really good to have you here with us all
Cheers from the Ozarks
Dad
Kyle what about cost?
Didn’t get to that Stephen
Was just looking for performance
Team Royer
Nice!
Where did you get the sanding stick?
He probably made it
I'm from southwest Missouri Kyle! Love your videos, you've inspired me to make better knives. Would love to meet you some day.
Thanks! I am also from southwest Missouri! :)
Will you be at blade show this year?
@@KyleRoyerKnives yes I will! Coming with my dad, we've both started making knives.
Wait, just so we're clear, which blade show are you talking about? Little Rock?
Yes Little Rock and Blade in Atlanta
Dad
good vid although a bit of an anorak vid so an anorak reply..lol
its good to test all aspects of a process as surprises often occur...
but did you spot as per your test results the best route for you is ?
220 3m
320 m pro
600 m pro
1000 m pro
1500 3m for finish
you get to your desired finish results you like a lot quicker... your time is your money for you
just to cost your paper now remembering the time costs you'll save also will make paper cost irrelevant in terms of your time value
1/2 your paper usage and 1/3 task time saved, you should turn out more product then or take some force time out
( dont be fooled on your ind600 sample.. as m pro 600grit to 3m1500grit is 2.01 total "nails it" for your your desired finish )
my tip given as no disrespect is to use face flattened backers for your paper., i run metal leftover bars as backers that a faced to 25k diamond paste leftovers from other project types
i was surprised how these improved my finishes also i use diamond lappimg grits of various with your windx
you can get lapping grit readily in varying grits
these are cheap but may not be cost effective for all jobs but for your higher end projects they may be worth a try for you. But for me finish and time improves
Yo Kyle that shits so funny.he threw it and ran away
How to remove red bad rust from antique sword at home make a video please help me or all sword collector
Blimey I have never been able to sand a knife in a few minutes.
All these people asking where to buy that sanding stick is kind of hilarious. I have several different sanding sticks in different materials and shapes for different purposes, and I didn't purchase any of them. Stop being addicted to shopping, folks! There should be some sort of rehab for folks who are hooked on buying little gadgets instead of just making their own little tools. I don't mean you have to build your own grinder from scratch, but buying sanding sticks? C'mon now! :p
If you took another batch of the same brands, I wonder if you would have a different result.
Good question Manny. I’d guess it would be negligible. Manufacturers are pretty good at producing consistent product. Especially heavy hitters. Chao
Dad
I saw what you did there...
Here I am over here thinking that it was gonna be hours......haha
Ah HA! Caught ya! @1:18 Kyle makes the sharpest knifes ever and still uses scissors to cut with.......Hey Kyle, how about make some bad ass scissors?
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Kyle you should still be wearing a mask they winded/water evaporates as you heat up the metal by sanding releasing the particles back into the air you breath just not as much
That's funny, that's what all Amazon delivery drivers do.
The short section at 0:22 is biblical
Good fun a. rob.
👍🏻☕️⚔️🔥
Team Royer
@@KyleRoyerKnives we need more of this