Someone told me parking the truck for a long time could have problems with moisture coming up exhaust and rusting unison ring. They also told me don't be a light foot all the time. Full throttle it once a month to rotate the unison ring and clear that rust and exhaust grime. Thanks the the video. Good camera views and explanations.
Honestly I think this is what created a problem for my truck.If I may ask,what does don't be a light foot all the time means. Now I need to buy a brand new turbo charger,it is not easy to get a mechanic that can come to fix it,they are not like the regular vehicles
This is exactly what must have caused the problem for my very clean super strong 2004 F 350 SuperDuty Dually Lariat 6.0,if I had gotten this type of information earlier before now,probably I could have been able to save my truck from the state that it is in now.Now I will have to buy a brand new Garrett Turbo Charger that does not come cheap,and maybe IPR valve because. For about twelve years now that I have been having this truck,there was never oil leakage underneath the truck,but now the underneath is wet with oil leakage.I could have gotten something to block the exhaust to avoid moisture having access into it all the time that I parked it without driving it had I known that this is what will be the after effect.
Dude, hose clamp pliers are not expensive and believe me you will be very happy to have them on hand in the future. In addition to my 6.0 PS I work on a lot of euro/imports that have them everywhere and are truly invaluable. Also, a good set ratchets and holds the clamp open so you can slide it further down the hose away from the fitting you’re disconnecting. That said, great video, thanks
I prefer the high-temperature nickel based anti-sieze over the molybdenum base formula. It stays in place and lubricates long after the molybdenum formula has melted, dried, and made its way out of the exhaust system. Nickel based is a bit more expensive and harder to find, but well worth it, in my opinion. It is always interesting to see how others do this job. Thank you!
So when you said your VGT was stuck at 85 i knew cleaning/replacing my 142k mile old turbo is in order. My scan tool often shows the vgt at 15 or 85 and seldom floating in the middle. Pressure test on the turbo showed everything sealed up and the MAP and EBP are good. I cleaned it 4 years ago but it sits alot and the U ring did see a little bean shape. I busted a 10mm socket pulling the bolt so it is off to town. Thanks for the video.
thank you sir , for your time and knowledge, i have a thing with numbers , some say its a gift others say a disorder. that dont have thing to do with ir ibe of the guys that works with me . has a thing for electronics to the point when im asking him to hush maybe i should be listning . you show confidence in your work and calmly and carefully break my on going problem with my f350 down so i can correct alot of my problems and may as well do some upgrading while im in there.i just wished i had patiance like you do. if the old truck could tall it would thank you as well im sure.
Thanks for sharing...)...I always change them hard as hell hoses...it's in a hot spot..so can leak or not..but we'll worth the change out.... Plus you can add a boost gauge adapter
Thank you! very informative, wondering if I need to do this cleaning to my 07 turbo? Don't have any under boost codes, but the truck will lug/surge/buck when going up an incline until you kick it down to the next lower gear, cleaned & checked EBP, Map sensor & EGR valve, still have issue.
I had this happen when my injectors where having stiction.woild go away when hot. Got new injectors and problem was gone.before I replced injectors I used archoil and it worked great .
Could you please give me some tips on how to remove the three bolts in order to remove the turbo. They are rusty, and i can not remove them. Thanks in advance!
Yeah those can be a pain. If the truck still runs have you tried getting the truck nice and hot see if that helps break them free? Or just keep soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days. I know some people have had pretty good luck with this stuff as well amzn.to/3Xze3Rc
I'm just in the middle doing my turbo. Yes, I have it off. Get yourself a bottle of KROil. You can get it at Tractor Supply. It's about $25.00 a can but worth everbit of it. You will be amazed at how easy those rotten 10 mm bolts come out. I've been working on cars/trucks since I was 12 and Kroil is the best stuff EVER. Oh yeh, I'm 77 now.....
What is the braided cable cover. You said it was heat resistant. Where did you get it? Great video btw. Extremely helpful. Right in the middle of doing my turbo. My unison ring split right where the variable pin goes....Any idea what would cause it to split there? Thanks.
nice work , I've done this job maybe 10-12 years ago , it took me 2 days @4 hour day ,, just did right bank glow plugs and harness ... anyway I'm 72 now and now the turbo is bad so i will replace it and with the price of a so- called mechanic I' ill do it myself but I'm not looking forward to it !
Usually a bad map sensor is p0069 did you check the map sensor vacuum line where it plugs into the intake manifold it’s common for it to crack overtime?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I have not. Is that the short one it’s about 3-4 inches long ? I cleaned the map sensor today and reset the code. It has thrown the code twice and usually takes over 200 miles for it to show up again. So far I’ve changed air filter and clean the map sensor. I don’t feel like I’m losing power when the engine light comes on and the turbos sound fine.
Dude, hose clamp pliers are not expensive and believe me you will be very happy to have them on hand in the future. In addition to my 6.0 PS I work on a lot of euro/imports that have them everywhere and are truly invaluable. Also, a good set ratchets and holds the clamp open so you can slide it further down the hose away from the fitting you’re disconnecting. That said, great video, thanks for sharing
Someone told me parking the truck for a long time could have problems with moisture coming up exhaust and rusting unison ring. They also told me don't be a light foot all the time. Full throttle it once a month to rotate the unison ring and clear that rust and exhaust grime.
Thanks the the video. Good camera views and explanations.
Honestly I think this is what created a problem for my truck.If I may ask,what does don't be a light foot all the time means.
Now I need to buy a brand new turbo charger,it is not easy to get a mechanic that can come to fix it,they are not like the regular vehicles
This is exactly what must have caused the problem for my very clean super strong 2004 F 350 SuperDuty Dually Lariat 6.0,if I had gotten this type of information earlier before now,probably I could have been able to save my truck from the state that it is in now.Now I will have to buy a brand new Garrett Turbo Charger that does not come cheap,and maybe IPR valve because. For about twelve years now that I have been having this truck,there was never oil leakage underneath the truck,but now the underneath is wet with oil leakage.I could have gotten something to block the exhaust to avoid moisture having access into it all the time that I parked it without driving it had I known that this is what will be the after effect.
One of the best informer videos I've seen in a long time thank you And you're good at it
Dude, hose clamp pliers are not expensive and believe me you will be very happy to have them on hand in the future. In addition to my 6.0 PS I work on a lot of euro/imports that have them everywhere and are truly invaluable. Also, a good set ratchets and holds the clamp open so you can slide it further down the hose away from the fitting you’re disconnecting. That said, great video, thanks
Awesome video. Good job hopefully everything is still running good
I prefer the high-temperature nickel based anti-sieze over the molybdenum base formula. It stays in place and lubricates long after the molybdenum formula has melted, dried, and made its way out of the exhaust system. Nickel based is a bit more expensive and harder to find, but well worth it, in my opinion. It is always interesting to see how others do this job. Thank you!
I appreciate this sir. Outstanding presentation.
So when you said your VGT was stuck at 85 i knew cleaning/replacing my 142k mile old turbo is in order. My scan tool often shows the vgt at 15 or 85 and seldom floating in the middle. Pressure test on the turbo showed everything sealed up and the MAP and EBP are good. I cleaned it 4 years ago but it sits alot and the U ring did see a little bean shape. I busted a 10mm socket pulling the bolt so it is off to town. Thanks for the video.
Update, I tore down the turbo and cleaned it up again. Runs like a champ! And no more p0299 code.
Excellent video sir, thank you 👍😁
thank you sir , for your time and knowledge, i have a thing with numbers , some say its a gift others say a disorder. that dont have thing to do with ir ibe of the guys that works with me . has a thing for electronics to the point when im asking him to hush maybe i should be listning . you show confidence in your work and calmly and carefully break my on going problem with my f350 down so i can correct alot of my problems and may as well do some upgrading while im in there.i just wished i had patiance like you do. if the old truck could tall it would thank you as well im sure.
Thanks for the video
Ty for sharing your time & talent .
This really helped me out big time I'm having the same problem
Thanks for sharing...)...I always change them hard as hell hoses...it's in a hot spot..so can leak or not..but we'll worth the change out.... Plus you can add a boost gauge adapter
Thank you! very informative, wondering if I need to do this cleaning to my 07 turbo? Don't have any under boost codes, but the truck will lug/surge/buck when going up an incline until you kick it down to the next lower gear, cleaned & checked EBP, Map sensor & EGR valve, still have issue.
I had this happen when my injectors where having stiction.woild go away when hot. Got new injectors and problem was gone.before I replced injectors I used archoil and it worked great .
great video!
Do you have a link for the new plug you spliced in? My plug also has a broken holder clip. Thanks
Could you please give me some tips on how to remove the three bolts in order to remove the turbo. They are rusty, and i can not remove them. Thanks in advance!
Yeah those can be a pain. If the truck still runs have you tried getting the truck nice and hot see if that helps break them free? Or just keep soaking them in penetrating oil for a few days. I know some people have had pretty good luck with this stuff as well amzn.to/3Xze3Rc
@BLUECOLLARGARAGE Thank you for your help
I'm just in the middle doing my turbo. Yes, I have it off. Get yourself a bottle of KROil. You can get it at Tractor Supply. It's about $25.00 a can but worth everbit of it. You will be amazed at how easy those rotten 10 mm bolts come out. I've been working on cars/trucks since I was 12 and Kroil is the best stuff EVER. Oh yeh, I'm 77 now.....
What is the braided cable cover. You said it was heat resistant. Where did you get it? Great video btw. Extremely helpful. Right in the middle of doing my turbo. My unison ring split right where the variable pin goes....Any idea what would cause it to split there? Thanks.
Where did you get your alternator? It's badass
Thanks DC Power alternators.
nice work , I've done this job maybe 10-12 years ago , it took me 2 days @4 hour day ,, just did right bank glow plugs and harness ... anyway I'm 72 now and now the turbo is bad so i will replace it and with the price of a so- called mechanic I' ill do it myself but I'm not looking forward to it !
Wow that’s awesome i sure hope i can do this job at 72 good luck on it.
How’s the turbo doing?
Still working fine no more sticking vanes or low boost codes
Can a failing map sensor cause this code
Usually a bad map sensor is p0069 did you check the map sensor vacuum line where it plugs into the intake manifold it’s common for it to crack overtime?
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE I have not. Is that the short one it’s about 3-4 inches long ? I cleaned the map sensor today and reset the code. It has thrown the code twice and usually takes over 200 miles for it to show up again. So far I’ve changed air filter and clean the map sensor. I don’t feel like I’m losing power when the engine light comes on and the turbos sound fine.
We're you located
Colorado
I just remove the screws from the degas and reach right down its alot easier that way
Dude, hose clamp pliers are not expensive and believe me you will be very happy to have them on hand in the future. In addition to my 6.0 PS I work on a lot of euro/imports that have them everywhere and are truly invaluable. Also, a good set ratchets and holds the clamp open so you can slide it further down the hose away from the fitting you’re disconnecting. That said, great video, thanks for sharing