I placed a 1500w heater under block for a few hours while freezing the sleeves. All four dropped in to with an inch or so of being fully seated. Couple taps with a mallet and done. Well done video.
I ended up taking my block to a machine shop where they hot tanked it and installed the sleeves. Freezing the sleeves did not work in my case and I broke two sleeves in the process. The sleeves are very brittle. I didn’t have a torch either. I would recommend a block of wood on top of that driver.
I found out when i installed mine one was so tight, the last one, the others were snug and right, broke the tight one and found out that the liner was larger in diameter than the others. I was shipped a bad liner or one that was not machined exact. I recommend that you measure both the inside of the cylinder after slight honing and also the thickness of the liner and the actual round diameter.
I'm curious if those sleeves you installed were they .090 or .040, as the ones I have tried to install are .040 and despite my heating up inner cylinders with my torch and pulling the sleeves out of the dry ice in cooler shoving them into the cylinders straight and tapping with ballpien hammer on top of a block of wood in a freezer bag I still had a few sleeves crack all up on the top rendering them useless. I love your puck I ordered puller online from seller mrnelms8888 on ebay but the puck plate was incomplete meaning not completely round. For some reason the puller plate (I call a puck) is flat on 2 sides instead of round all the way around. As such trying to use it to pound the sleeves the last inch or so simply destroyed the sleeve.
There is a big risk in using the extraction plate for pushing the liners in. The extraction plate is made for going on the bottom of the liner, where there is no taper on the inside. The plate can easily go inside, or partly inside, the taper and crack the liner. Do not use the extraction tool this way. You are better off using a piece of wood. 2x4" or something. But then you might not get the liner all the way below the surface. Some kind of special tool is needed to get it all the way down.
Possibly someone installed the old sleeves with a sealer or who knows what. Even oil or grease between the cylinder and the block will turn into carbon over time. First, I’d use an interior micrometer and mike the cylinders, but chances are it’s just a rust buildup plus possibly degraded old lube or even sealer. I’d work the bare cylinders really hard with a dingleberry hone. They’re cheap and all you need is a 1/4 inch drill. I usually combine sleeves with a valve job and I always hold off on putting the valves in until the sleeves are in. Heating the block can’t be doing the valve seals any good. I have a low serial aluminum hood 9N coming into the shop right now. The farmer who had it stored all these years told me that the guy who owned it before him pulled the sleeves and ran Plymouth pistons in the bare block. I can see a machine shop trip coming up.
![เกิดใหม่ทั้งทีก็เป็นสไลม์ไปซะแล้ว ซีซั่น 3 - ตอนที่ 65 [ซับไทย]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4EsinscQCfs/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude, easiest sleeve install I’ve seen! You planned your work and worked your plan! 👍🏼 Thanks for great video!
I like seeing you make it back to New condition with them sleeves
I placed a 1500w heater under block for a few hours while freezing the sleeves. All four dropped in to with an inch or so of being fully seated. Couple taps with a mallet and done. Well done video.
Thats a great idea to warm up the block
Nice work!!! That second one had me nervous.
Thanks appreciate the comment
Nice job man.
You should only heat those bores where the wall is the thinnest.
I ended up taking my block to a machine shop where they hot tanked it and installed the sleeves. Freezing the sleeves did not work in my case and I broke two sleeves in the process. The sleeves are very brittle. I didn’t have a torch either. I would recommend a block of wood on top of that driver.
I found out when i installed mine one was so tight, the last one, the others were snug and right, broke the tight one and found out that the liner was larger in diameter than the others. I was shipped a bad liner or one that was not machined exact. I recommend that you measure both the inside of the cylinder after slight honing and also the thickness of the liner and the actual round diameter.
If I remember right, some used thick and some used thin sleeves.
🇮🇩 🎅 ✋ 👍 💥 💥 💥 💥 💥 👈
I'm curious if those sleeves you installed were they .090 or .040, as the ones I have tried to install are .040 and despite my heating up inner cylinders with my torch and pulling the sleeves out of the dry ice in cooler shoving them into the cylinders straight and tapping with ballpien hammer on top of a block of wood in a freezer bag I still had a few sleeves crack all up on the top rendering them useless. I love your puck I ordered puller online from seller mrnelms8888 on ebay but the puck plate was incomplete meaning not completely round. For some reason the puller plate (I call a puck) is flat on 2 sides instead of round all the way around. As such trying to use it to pound the sleeves the last inch or so simply destroyed the sleeve.
My sleeves were .040. I wonder if running a hone in the block would help. Just to clean the rust out??
There is a big risk in using the extraction plate for pushing the liners in. The extraction plate is made for going on the bottom of the liner, where there is no taper on the inside. The plate can easily go inside, or partly inside, the taper and crack the liner.
Do not use the extraction tool this way. You are better off using a piece of wood. 2x4" or something. But then you might not get the liner all the way below the surface. Some kind of special tool is needed to get it all the way down.
Possibly someone installed the old sleeves with a sealer or who knows what. Even oil or grease between the cylinder and the block will turn into carbon over time. First, I’d use an interior micrometer and mike the cylinders, but chances are it’s just a rust buildup plus possibly degraded old lube or even sealer.
I’d work the bare cylinders really hard with a dingleberry hone. They’re cheap and all you need is a 1/4 inch drill.
I usually combine sleeves with a valve job and I always hold off on putting the valves in until the sleeves are in. Heating the block can’t be doing the valve seals any good.
I have a low serial aluminum hood 9N coming into the shop right now. The farmer who had it stored all these years told me that the guy who owned it before him pulled the sleeves and ran Plymouth pistons in the bare block. I can see a machine shop trip coming up.
Does torching the cylinder increase the size of the the hole? Or is the torch for some other reason?
Your exactly right. Expands the cylinder and the frozen liner shrinks it
Are the sleeves directional on the 8N-- a top and bottom ?
There is a ring around the top that is larger than the bore in the block