Nice video. Tip: When installing the new piston assembly into the cylinder bore put short pieces of rubber tubing over the threads of the rod bolts. It will prevent damage of your newly machined crankshaft should the rod bolts strike the nicely machined surface.
My grandfather had two Ford tractors for his farm. I used to ride with him sometimes and the Fords will always be my favorite tractor. Just a real American classic.
As a collector/user of older tractors, the benefit to me of these tutorials cannot be overstated. While I likely will never completely rebuild one of the Ford engines in my tractors, the breakdown of the engine is extremely useful to understanding what is or is not a potential problem. As always, knowledge and the power of observation are the most important tools, and Dan and Rachel provide a lot of both. I particularly appreciate that one or the other will fill in an explanation that the other bypassed. Dan should be very proud of his daughter and Rachel should be very proud of what she has accomplished. I just wish they would put out more basic books on old tractors as was done for the Farmall Cub. I know that basic reference books on tractors cannot be a major money maker…..but such books are well cherished after the books on the current NYT best sellers list have long ago been consigned to the recycle pile. Please keep up the great work as a public service to all of us wannabe farm/mechanics.
Rachel (and Dan) - Thank You! for all of your great videos! Very instructional, very helpful, very professional! You are every dad's dream daughter to be out there wrenching on tractors with your dad... my daughters stopped when they wanted girly finger nails..... Fellow Michigander here, '52 8N. Keep up the great videos - I love them all!
Best engine rebuild video I have ever seen. But as noted by others: plastigage before oiling and tightening bearing shells, checking the crank end play and using a piston ring expander when installing the rings. I have been putting off this repair on my 8N. These videos will be very helpful when I do my engine. Thank-you.
In middle school my dad and I worked on our 8n. I learned a lot and was an easy engine to work on. That was 1969. From engines to computers. Great time with dad.
I went to a trade school for farm diesel mechanics back in the late 70s. Our instructor had a concoction to aid in the installation of dry sleeves. You would mix STP engine oil treatment and clean parts cleaning solvent half and half and smear it on the outside of the sleeves and inside the bores of the engine block and that would help with the friction issues installing the sleeves. The instructor called it snot. Not a very pleasant description. I have not had a chance to try it since every engine I have done were either wet or non sleeved engines. Now that I am buying a Ford 8N I will have a chance to test it out.
After breaking one sleeve, I ordered two more and broke one of them. I then took the block and four remaining sleeves 75 miles to an engine builder who hot tanked the block and installed the sleeves and completely rebuilt the oil pump. #3 and 4 sleeves came out hard, #2 and 1 were not as difficult but driving the new ones in even after 24 hours in the freezer was unsuccessful. And to top it off, when I started reassembling the engine the #1 bearing(oil pump) cap stud threads stripped as soon as I start torquing them. Machinist is making new studs. These studs have a .001 step on them (and are NLA) that makes them fit very precisely in the bearing cap. Using a bolt won’t cut it. If you can’t find used ones a machinist can make new ones.
Over 40 years ago when I did this sort of work I would cool the cylinder sleeves in dry ice. They typically just drop right into place without any force. Try it.
Your videos are always so informative and well recorded thanks for what you do. Your daughter is just amazing and I know you are very proud of her. Guess I don't have to wonder where the curly hair came from.
I've seen another way on tractors and CAT dozens for installing sleeves. A hydraulic puller with a bolt going from the bottom up attached to the puck and pulling the sleeves in.
I realize that you are not building a racing engine, but there are a few things you probably should include. You should always have the block hot tanked to make sure that it is clean and this will get the clogged coolant and oil passages cleaned. At some point you need to check the crankshaft main bearing thrust clearance. It is a good practice to plastigage the bearings to verify the clearances. Before installing rings on the pistons you should place the rings in the bores and check for ring end gap. Piston should be put in the bore and skirt clearances checked. When the oil pump is being rebuilt it is important to check the gear end clearance. If a new camshaft is installed you should cam lube instead of oil. There is a sleeve to block height that needs to be checked.
I've been steering clear of Ford N series gas tractors and only looking at diesels. I had decided on finding a MF diesel like a 35, 50, or 65, but I may be rethinking that. As common as the parts are and as easy as this looks to rebuild, I'll have to look at Ns again.
Please come to Oregon and do our two 8Ns!! One still runs but the other started ticking a month ago, then blowing smoke-took oil pan off and have two pieces of the bottom of the piston. Think it’s gone. Just bought it a few months ago for $2900. Now $2000 to redo. Dang it!!
Hi great videos I enjoy them a lot. I'm in the process of rebuilding an engine out of a 9N and was wondering if you could tell me how to time a cam gear to the cam. There is no key way or notch on the gear or cam Thanks
When installing the crankshaft, do you use plastic-gage to check clearance prior to final torque? Also, do you measure the ring lands and ring gaps prior to final install? Thanks
When installing piston rings. There's less chance of damaging the rings if/when you use piston ring pliers and not snap/retaining ring pliers. When installing the crankshaft, are you plasti-gauging the mains and journals? What is the measurement requirements for the forward lateral runout? I'll be assembling an 8N engine soon and am trying to find out these measurements. I haven't had luck finding them in the I&T Manual I bought.
@@Yawles i use this for mounting bushings about 100,2mm to reduce the diameter under 100mm which the bore had. But that was no engine. Engine sleeves dont have such big oversize , imho. But Liquid N is a lot of fun :-)
@@Yawles Interesting. Years ago, we used to use dry ice on engines with dry sleeves that were not wanting to come out. The sleeves would contract just enough for them to pop loose. Never thought about using them for the install.
hi, you can make a shade tree parts press with a 1/2 ton hydraulic bottle jack and some creative iron arms head bolts... like gear puller in reverse.. Mmmm...:/ great video, thanks...:)
Don't get a "New" oil can, get an old one, it will last longer My daughter likes old oil cans. She picked up five old pump cans from a garage sale this summer. After she cleaned them up only one didn't work.
Are steel sleeves really more fragile when frozen? I have a hard time believing that. Steel melts at about 2800 deg. F. Why would a drop in temperature of say 50 deg. (70 down to 20) change it's ductility? I'm no scientist and I have no proof but it just doesn't sound feasible to me.
Your TO 20 is an overhead valve, push rod engine. This is a flat head engine (valves in the block). Short block assembly has some similarities in procedure but their parts are different.
That oil pump gear has to be pressed together you never told anybody how to do that fortunately I know how you have to put the stem in the refrigerator and heat up the
Nice video. Tip: When installing the new piston assembly into the cylinder bore put short pieces of rubber tubing over the threads of the rod bolts. It will prevent damage of your newly machined crankshaft should the rod bolts strike the nicely machined surface.
My grandfather had two Ford tractors for his farm. I used to ride with him sometimes and the Fords will always be my favorite tractor. Just a real American classic.
As a collector/user of older tractors, the benefit to me of these tutorials cannot be overstated. While I likely will never completely rebuild one of the Ford engines in my tractors, the breakdown of the engine is extremely useful to understanding what is or is not a potential problem. As always, knowledge and the power of observation are the most important tools, and Dan and Rachel provide a lot of both. I particularly appreciate that one or the other will fill in an explanation that the other bypassed. Dan should be very proud of his daughter and Rachel should be very proud of what she has accomplished. I just wish they would put out more basic books on old tractors as was done for the Farmall Cub. I know that basic reference books on tractors cannot be a major money maker…..but such books are well cherished after the books on the current NYT best sellers list have long ago been consigned to the recycle pile. Please keep up the great work as a public service to all of us wannabe farm/mechanics.
Hello, I will never buy any parts from you because I don't own any farm eqipment but, I do enjoy the tutorials. I love to see how things are built.
Rachel (and Dan) - Thank You! for all of your great videos! Very instructional, very helpful, very professional! You are every dad's dream daughter to be out there wrenching on tractors with your dad... my daughters stopped when they wanted girly finger nails..... Fellow Michigander here, '52 8N. Keep up the great videos - I love them all!
Best engine rebuild video I have ever seen. But as noted by others: plastigage before oiling and tightening bearing shells, checking the crank end play and using a piston ring expander when installing the rings. I have been putting off this repair on my 8N. These videos will be very helpful when I do my engine. Thank-you.
In middle school my dad and I worked on our 8n. I learned a lot and was an easy engine to work on. That was 1969. From engines to computers. Great time with dad.
I went to a trade school for farm diesel mechanics back in the late 70s. Our instructor had a concoction to aid in the installation of dry sleeves. You would mix STP engine oil treatment and clean parts cleaning solvent half and half and smear it on the outside of the sleeves and inside the bores of the engine block and that would help with the friction issues installing the sleeves. The instructor called it snot. Not a very pleasant description. I have not had a chance to try it since every engine I have done were either wet or non sleeved engines. Now that I am buying a Ford 8N I will have a chance to test it out.
Instead of "snot" we just used a light coat of gun grease. Have a feeling the "snot" works a lot better.
Love her presentation and knowledge
Makes us older folks proud to see not all hope is lost
Glad to have seen such a pretty young lady that knows so much about tractors and how to fix them great work.
Seems like a good tutorial, I never rebuilt an engine but I feel like I could rebuild my 8N after watching these videos
After breaking one sleeve, I ordered two more and broke one of them. I then took the block and four remaining sleeves 75 miles to an engine builder who hot tanked the block and installed the sleeves and completely rebuilt the oil pump. #3 and 4 sleeves came out hard, #2 and 1 were not as difficult but driving the new ones in even after 24 hours in the freezer was unsuccessful. And to top it off, when I started reassembling the engine the #1 bearing(oil pump) cap stud threads stripped as soon as I start torquing them. Machinist is making new studs. These studs have a .001 step on them (and are NLA) that makes them fit very precisely in the bearing cap. Using a bolt won’t cut it. If you can’t find used ones a machinist can make new ones.
It is very wonderful to restore the engine. If the work is as good as what we see, the engine will work for years to come .. شكرًا
Thanks for this admiration, and for watching the fun and useful videos.
Over 40 years ago when I did this sort of work I would cool the cylinder sleeves in dry ice. They typically just drop right into place without any force. Try it.
Your videos are always so informative and well recorded thanks for what you do. Your daughter is just amazing and I know you are very proud of her. Guess I don't have to wonder where the curly hair came from.
These awesome videos going to help me rebuild my Ford 1942 2N this summer. Thank you for hosting this wonderful series. Ford-tastic!
I've seen another way on tractors and CAT dozens for installing sleeves. A hydraulic puller with a bolt going from the bottom up attached to the puck and pulling the sleeves in.
Thank you! About to start a 1952 8n rebuild. Great timing!
I'm enjoying this rebuild your doing. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to explain things. Good job Rachel and Dan.
Whohoo! Part to, thanks so much for the informative videos Rachel. Keep it up!
I realize that you are not building a racing engine, but there are a few things you probably should include. You should always have the block hot tanked to make sure that it is clean and this will get the clogged coolant and oil passages cleaned. At some point you need to check the crankshaft main bearing thrust clearance. It is a good practice to plastigage the bearings to verify the clearances. Before installing rings on the pistons you should place the rings in the bores and check for ring end gap. Piston should be put in the bore and skirt clearances checked. When the oil pump is being rebuilt it is important to check the gear end clearance. If a new camshaft is installed you should cam lube instead of oil. There is a sleeve to block height that needs to be checked.
Keep up the good work Rachel and Dan. Love the video's.
I've been steering clear of Ford N series gas tractors and only looking at diesels. I had decided on finding a MF diesel like a 35, 50, or 65, but I may be rethinking that. As common as the parts are and as easy as this looks to rebuild, I'll have to look at Ns again.
Great video very fine information Thank you for all your hard work and sharing
Love you’r videos 😊😊😊
Best video I've seen yet
Please come to Oregon and do our two 8Ns!! One still runs but the other started ticking a month ago, then blowing smoke-took oil pan off and have two pieces of the bottom of the piston. Think it’s gone. Just bought it a few months ago for $2900. Now $2000 to redo. Dang it!!
Hi great videos I enjoy them a lot. I'm in the process of rebuilding an engine out of a 9N and was wondering if you could tell me how to time a cam gear to the cam. There is no key way or notch on the gear or cam Thanks
Haven't finished the video but have y'all done a video on putting the hydraulic pump on the crank
Love your show!
Good job Good information keep up the good work . Thanks!!
Do you have a video on trouble shooting pto issues on a 1959 881 selectospeed?
When installing the crankshaft, do you use plastic-gage to check clearance prior to final torque? Also, do you measure the ring lands and ring gaps prior to final install? Thanks
You definitely should. For the few bucks a Plastiguage and feeler gauge costs it is very much worth it.
When buying a new oil pump do u need to align bore it
When installing piston rings. There's less chance of damaging the rings if/when you use piston ring pliers and not snap/retaining ring pliers. When installing the crankshaft, are you plasti-gauging the mains and journals? What is the measurement requirements for the forward lateral runout? I'll be assembling an 8N engine soon and am trying to find out these measurements. I haven't had luck finding them in the I&T Manual I bought.
Hi what size of reamer for oil pump bushing?
This sorta makes me want to buy an old 9n and rebuild it .
Very explainatory video..you should give me some lessons about tractor mechanics..
Great video. Thank you
Love that Michigan accent!
sleeves installing best is with liquid nitrogen ;-) .... you have stop them underneath.
I was curious if dry ice (approx -70F) would be good, since it is fairly easy to get. Liquid N would be very interesting.
My local Kroger sells dry ice. I use it for freeze branding.
@@Yawles i use this for mounting bushings about 100,2mm to reduce the diameter under 100mm which the bore had. But that was no engine. Engine sleeves dont have such big oversize , imho. But Liquid N is a lot of fun :-)
@@Yawles Interesting. Years ago, we used to use dry ice on engines with dry sleeves that were not wanting to come out. The sleeves would contract just enough for them to pop loose. Never thought about using them for the install.
Thank you so much
I would love to know how to remove 9n567 hydraulic tube and replace I checked this and it has a crack you advised to check this and thank you
Crankshaft thrust measurement?
Yep, I’ll need someone else to do this for me. 😂 How much would you charge to get this done (total rebuild)?
excellent video !!! Thanks
Regardless of what sleve if the right size piston used for that sleve it shiuldn't mattter?
I have a 1939 9n how does the cam gear come off it is a fiber gear it needs to be changed and replace can I use a bolt one with a new cam will it work
Can yall do one on a 851 powermaster
Confused my book fo-4 crank is 90 to 100 foot lbs just wondering big difference there
hi, you can make a shade tree parts press with a 1/2 ton hydraulic bottle jack and some creative iron arms head bolts... like gear puller in reverse.. Mmmm...:/ great video, thanks...:)
Do you have any idea where I can purchase a crank kit for a ford 1310 shibarua engine. 1986 year model.
Oil pump gear then press it on or tap it on cautiously
Great job!!
Don't get a "New" oil can, get an old one, it will last longer
My daughter likes old oil cans. She picked up five old pump cans
from a garage sale this summer.
After she cleaned them up only one didn't work.
Think you
Very nice
Hi Where are you? We missed your video
Can any buddy tell me why my 1952 ford 8n piston rods say ford Canada I did not thank they made them up there
I wonder if this motor would be good to swap into a truck
Sure if you want a truck with 20 hp
Cómo poner a final los idraulico del fecuzun 35
I rebuild my 2n ford traktor have no compression in number 3 cylinder
Looking good.
I think I need a new rod bearings and wrist pin bushings.
I rebuild my 2n ford engine number 3 haves no compression
Tork wrench for conrod Ford 3000?
Cylinder head also
Can't find part 3 or 4
Looking at the date I see why
Good
Hey.....safety glasses. 😃
Yo tengo un Ford 801 diésel , me hubiera o me ayudaría bastante que tus vídeos fueran en español
👍👍👍👍
Maybe your oil can needs more oil in it.
9:03
Are steel sleeves really more fragile when frozen? I have a hard time believing that. Steel melts at about 2800 deg. F. Why would a drop in temperature of say 50 deg. (70 down to 20) change it's ductility? I'm no scientist and I have no proof but it just doesn't sound feasible to me.
Yes steel becomes more brittle when cold but ductility should not be an issue unless the sleeves are chilled w/Dry Ice.
Is this the same for a 1949 TO-20 Ferguson? Thank you.
They have different engines
Your TO 20 is an overhead valve, push rod engine. This is a flat head engine (valves in the block). Short block assembly has some similarities in procedure but their parts are different.
Would like to c more of dan sleeveless shirt be nice thank you Mary Debockler
You did a very good job too complicated for me I will pass
Wussy.
That oil pump gear has to be pressed together you never told anybody how to do that fortunately I know how you have to put the stem in the refrigerator and heat up the
Hii
What’s the matter Rachel don’t know how to braze that oil line or did you have to have daddy do it for you
That young women is cuter than a bugs ear and really sharp
Hello Ginger ! Can you speak french please !! ;-)
No your reply tha wtsap
Made me cringe at 15:35 !
!;-)
Now Biden will introduce electric tractors!
Cómo poner a funcionar los idraulico del fecuzun 35