My Indy mechanic replaced the VVT on my 2005 2.5T. He watched a couple of YT videos to see how to do it - possibly yours. Once he was done, after a mile of driving it threw a code - which made him fear he had made an error. However, after clearing the code, it never reappeared. Kudos to you and others for posting this important guidance!
Probably the best explanation of setting the timing I ever saw. So many thanks for your patience and understanding. Hope this will work on my d5244t4 similarly.
Thanks for explaining and recapping. The tip about turning it counterclockwise first and about 4 teeth was very helpful. I see your "experience" has enabled you to share the effective "tricks" to simplify!
Thanks for this...I watched the video about 5 times, set everything up (I thought) but when I turned the crank over twice the exhaust hub mark looked a tooth off. Didn't know if I could just spin the cam with the locking tool so I just did the whole thing over again and it purrs like a kitten. Thank you so much.
I am just about to change the head gasket on a 2006 Volvoxc70. I have been scared ______less about this part of the job. I think I can now remove the timing belt and lift the cams with some degree of confidence thanks to your video.
Your ability to explain this has blown me away! Our new to us 05 xc90 with the 2.5T Recently while driving semi uphill on a 90F day gave out and lost power displayed “low coolant stop safely” and then “no oil pressure stop safely” then when we were stopped I looked outside and the coolant had dumped out the passenger-ish side and of course was steaming. I had tried the key just to see and it cranked very slow and would not crank over. After some minor tinkering and a compression test the cylinders from left to right read (aprox) 60-50-60-50-70 during the compression test we could only get the car to crank very slow with the key then tried a starter bypass button while full battery and the even hooked to jumpers. My father in law says he believes the timing belt may have slipped a tooth or something and is out of time now which seems likely after looking into head gasket issues. My 2 questions are does this same method apply to our 05 xc90 or is there a difference? And does the timing issue sound likely to you? I apologize for the huge comment and loaded question haha your knowledge has really opened my eyes up to this all as a new Volvo owner. Thank you in advance!
Thank you for the compliment, appreciated. To me it’s sounds like you blew the head gasket and warped the cylinder head, hence the low compression. But the slow cranking worries me too. Hopefully you didn’t partially seize the engine. With all spark plugs out, try turning the crankshaft with a 1/2 drive ratchet and socket and see if it turns without too much resistance.
@@motorcarnut another question for you :) I drained the old oil and just started to poke around in it and it doesn’t appear to be a significant amount of water mixed in, also it seems there is very little but of metal glitter in the oil unfortunately, there really wasn’t a lot but not what I was hoping to see! Does this still seem like the head gasket is the issue? I am comfortable pulling off the heads and getting into it I just need a few things to make sure I’d be putting it back together correctly and to spec. I will before that of course pull the spark plugs and try to turn the crank to check if seized any, just need to get the tire off and get in the plastics haha. I really appreciate you taking the time to read my comments and share your experience!
There is not supposed to be any water in the oil and definitely not metal particles. Hopefully you didn’t destroy the engine bearings. The crank test should let you know. Good luck
Thanks for explaining this. Helps put into perspective. I'm actually going to have to check timing. Since I'm getting an ECM-341C code on the exhaust side. Replaced the cam sensor and housing to no avail, although it did look like oil leaked into the cam housing. But checking the timing on the exhaust is the last thing to check before giving up
No seriously... thank you Motorcarnut. I just got a xc90 with a slipped belt and this couldnt be more helpful. Now it's time to make my own timing lock tool unfortunately
Btw the instructions to make tool are in the book for the Volvos that have 5cyl, I’m using my 01-06 s60 book as a guide, it has instructions for both vvt timing and non vvt. Honestly buy the tool, did the job with custom made and could only do intake side, the steel wasn’t hard enough. Make sure to buy the cam locking tool or you’re screwed big time. Just so you all know, definitely not an understatement. I’m a big DIYer and I was able to torque, but it was not easy and to torque down to 89 ft lbs on the center cam/vvt hub bolt without rotation, it puts a lot of force on the homemade tool and bends regular 1/4 inch steel, BUY THE HARDENED TOOL STEEL ONE!!!!! - my 2¢
@@motorcarnut hey can I ask if your Volvo engine was surging and stalling? I have the same vehicle it turns off on it's own and the rpm keep reving also the engine keeps rumbling like having trouble to stay on did you fix yours and now it's good
great video and tips to refresh my memory before I replace front cam seals on my 2005 xc70. especially timing specs and tips. thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
To loosen the crank center nut turn counter clock-wise use a size 30mm impact socket. To tighten: The 4 bolts of crank vibration damper up to 2002: 25 nm (18-ftlbs) then angle 30 degrees after. For crank vibration damper from 2002: 25 nm (18 ft-lbs)angle 60 degrees after The center nut 180nm (132 ft-lbs) Camshaft gear with vvt, 3-bolts to 10 nm (7.3 ft-lbs) Camshaft gear without vvt, 20 nm (14.7 ft-lbs) Camshaft gear center bolt 120 nm (88.5 ft-lbs) Timing belt tensioner 20 nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
I used this video in conjunction with the Volvo service notes on the matter. Video was better to follow than the notes due to some Swedish translation errors (eg “remove bolt” when it should say “loosen bolt”) imho. Very grateful to you for this clip during a stressful time doing cam seals, water pump etc. Car started first time. The VVTS are not in the exact angular position they were beforehand. I could easily twist them a little back to where I marked them BUT I’m glad I set it back to factory and will take it to Volvo or an engine specialist so they can set optimal angle on a VIDA now that I’ve done all the grunt work and fixed my oil leaks. Could not have done this job without the cam-lock tool either.
@@motorcarnut at what part of the video did you remove the CAM lock tool (time on video - please ! and thank you ! ) PS I have a XC90 with 2.5 T (2005) it looks identical so Im guessing its the same engine-set up, DOHC, VVT x 2
@@motorcarnut hi again. I’m wondering if I may trouble you for a little wisdom. My 2.5T xC90 has been running fine since I replaced my cam seals and belt parts. I used this clip to remount and set the VVTs. Started first time and been running OK. A little less pepp than before and the idle surges ever so slightly each couple of seconds. Engine light has been on too so I figured it wasn’t optimum anyway as I left the pulley bolts hard right in the slots. Before I began both pulleys had the bolts sitting roughly in the middle of slot. Anyway I finally took it to Volvo so they could scan it. Exhaust cam is running at just under +22deg. The recommended range is -8 to +8deg. I figure that the pulley is maybe 10-15deg difference from where it was before cam belt change. Do you think the VVT itself could be at fault? Or the solenoid? I can shift the pulley back to my original markings but I’m not sure that will reduce the +22 deg or increase it. The intake is fine. I’m very certain nothing slipped whilst torquing up the VVTS but I’m open to being wrong there. Any advice?
You messed something up, I don’t think it’s the vvt or solenoid. You could try putting the cam back to it’s original position and see if it helps clean the engine light.
@@motorcarnut yep, for now I’ve loosened the three pulley bolts on the exhaust cam and twisted the VVT anticlockwise to the original position. About halfway in slots. Going to Volvo again tomorrow to get them to measure the angle . If it’s improved then I know I’m on right track. Otherwise I guess I’ll be watching your clip again. Cheers
Hmm don't see anything about the 1 and 1-1/2 teeth offset in the OEM service info. Volvo says turn the VVT phasers to full clockwise position, line up the gear marks with the timing marks with the three little bolts approximately centered. The torque the big bolts down. The loosen the three little bolts, install and tension the timing belt, and finally tighten the three timing gear bolts. Wondering where you got the tooth offset spec?
Thanks for the comment. It’s in the alldata database. Couple of other people stated discrepancies from the factory manuals and when they followed the manual they got timing codes, then followed what I posted and were fine. So I have no idea why.
@@motorcarnut Interesting! I got the procedure from AllData, for a 2004 Volvo XC70 2.5 Turbo dual VVT. Just eyeballed the cam slots since I didn't have the cam or crank locking tools. Fired right up, no codes!
Wow, you got lucky then. Probably just did a timing belt? Because everything free wheels and needs all these special tools if you’re doing a head removal or more. I think the car in the video was a 2009 idk if there were variations between them, don’t think so.
@@motorcarnut This one came from the "butcher shop" as a no-start, timing belt was way off. Once running, it was leaking oil everywhere up top lol. I pulled the cams out and replaced all 4 cam seals. Was going to pull the VVT actuators off, but they actually looked to be in the right place, so decided to leave them attached to the cams :)
Just did this today, wrote the steps down so itde be easier to follow while doing it and happy to say it fired up no problem! At first i attempted to follow what ever vida told me and it wouldnt start and gave me a cam inlet code...
That's great. And the reason I made that video. The factory manuals can be confusing to people who are not seasoned mechanics so I try to explain them in layman's terms.
Спасибо Вам большое, очень четко объясняете настройки этого не совсем простого механизма, очень полезное видео, желаю Вам крепкого здоровья и успехов во всём🤝!
Motorcarnut, I was driving my 2004 Volvo V70 2.4 non turbo and a piece of my belt came apart and it must have jumped time because it cut off and wouldn't start back up. I'm going to replace the belt and was curious as to if I do my timing the same as your video seeing that my Volvo is a non turbo 2.4? Thanks in advance and you do have a new subscriber in me .
Thank you your video is easy to understand and gets me closer then any other . Mine has only exhaust side vvt. I set everything as in video put together enough to fire . I fired it up and there is a loud squeeling sound now like a belt squeel . You rhink i might have tightened the belt to much ?
@motorcarnut ok I adjusted everything but I still think I need a new tensioner . It seems to rev fine , but at idle it shakes like hell and throws misfire codes . Ran like a top when seals went bad
I may have messed up the reseting of the vvt after initial timing . I'm a little confused . Do I want the final turn to have the hub turned to the right or the left ? And the sprocket should stay on time right ? Sorry to bother you and I appreciate the help bigtime ! I know cars and fix lots of them . But this isn't normal lol.
Great video, but I would change where the teeth are placed before the final adjustment. If you put the exhaust 1 1/2 tooth before and the intake 2 teeth before the timing mark when you do the final adjustment the three bolts wouldn't be bottomed out in the grooves. That way you would know for certain that you had adjusted to the correct limit rather than just having the bolts bottoming out in the bolt grooves.
Did you do it that way? The information is from Volvo and never had a problem yet. But thanks for the information and comment! Appreciate the extra information.
@@motorcarnut I did and whoever replaced the timing belt before me had the crank sprocket bolts even further to left in the grooves than I did. The car had been running great but the damn Volvo PCV system was completely plugged up and pushing oil past the camshaft seals so I replaced the seals and the PCV system. 165k miles and getting around 27 miles per gallon!
Makes some sense to me now, I did some reading and some note taking when I had my T belt off. My Ex VVT total travel is 2 teeth, the intake total travel is 3 teeth, so when you set yours at and 1 and 1.5, thats exactly half, that centers the inner and outer part of the VVT hub. You have to visualize or know what the inside of a VVT looks like to understand. Now....Volvo or VIDA says... to do a belt you turn the crank CW past the mark 1/4 turn or 90 degrees, then back up CCW to the mark again, essentially what they are having you do is, make full contact with the VVT at the extreme CW position or limit of the VVT, so that why you hear people say, turn the VVT fully CW then install the belt. Thats for the belt, not the VVT, remember the VVT works off of oil pressure, when the engine is off there is none to move the VVT. Then you ask why 2 degrees on the Ex and 1.5 on the int, because intake valves are bigger, and hence can't move out of time as much with piston collision.
Today I pulled #1 plug and put a straw in, the crank pulley marks line up ONE TOOTH BTDC, IOW if I rotate the crank fwd one tooth the piston is at TDC, WTH?
A lot of modern vehicles set the timing just before top dead center to avoid piston valve contact when assembling, on the crank gear there are 2 marks as I explained in my video the pointer goes in the centre of the valley in between those 2 hair line marks.
What am I missing? Why do you even have to loosen the 3 nuts and mess with them on each sprocket? Cant you just put the sprockets back on where you took them off? They have the spring loaded play. So, if you just made 2 marks (1 for fully advanced, and 1 at rest). Cant you just put them back in that same spot?
You really can’t because once you release the tension on the timing belt everything can move because once you do you will throw the timing off and will have to lock the cams in the back and reset the vvt units like I show in my video.
Was always under the impression the cam gear 3 bolts should be close to centered between the oval holes? Least from the factory it was. That gives you room for adjustment if your a few degrees off. Also performance guys usually run the intake with a couple degrees of advance.
How about making marks on the timing belt itself that match with the marks on the cam and crankshaft teeth for another safety check? And if you're replacing the timing belt (as I will be) copy over those marks onto the new belt.
Marking the belt and the heads/block at both cams and the crank with the harmonic balancer off after locking the cams works great. If you do this it doesn't matter where the gear marks end up. Just make sure the cams are turned fully clock. If the car was good before, it'll be good after. Reinstall the belt by doing crank mark first, stuff the gap with a shop rag to pin the belt in place. run the belt up the right, non adjust side over the intake cam (fully clocked to the right). Pin the belt to the intake gear with a needle nose vice grip. Get the tensioner to its loosest setting and the run the belt across a right-clocked exhaust gear. Pin that belt and gear with anther needle nose vice grip. Bring the bottom of the belt from the crank up around the water pump and meet at the smooth tensioner pulley for easiest install. If you've done it right, all the slack is on the left side between the crank and the exhaust pulley. That is soaked up by the tensioner adjustment.
@@matthewgilhuly2213 Thanks for that. It seemed _logical_ to me and one extra level of redundancy to make sure you don't put things together wrong. I'm just starting the work tomorrow or the next day so your comment came at the perfect time. I have a a new white paint marker ready for the job...
I am replacing the timing belt on my wife’s 2004 Volvo S60 2.4. It broke while my wife was driving the car. So all three pulleys have spun different ways. So I understand about the timing and the notches. But Do you have a video of how to install the camshaft tool on the end of the cams? I would like to know what I have to take loose and how to install it on the back. The tool that locks the cams in place. I cannot find a video on that. Very good video BTW, thanks.
At 1:40 in the video I show the tool and how to install it. You have to take the cam covers off on the rear of the engine and then remove the stator center screw on each cam then install the tool in the vertical slots.
Thank you very much, I’ve worked on a lot of cars but never foreign. Also timing is something I’ve always stayed away from, I’m gonna try to tackle this on my own. But I’m definitely stressed out about it. Your video has helped a lot! Thank you!
Hello I have a 05 xc90 and followed this and have a ecm 340b after startup, runs ok. Replaced old sensor but no change . Tried 1 n 1 tooth but barely runs lol thinking 1 n 2 tooth. 😅.
Make sure sensor is installed correctly, some model they can crack and misalign the sensor. Then I’d recheck timing if you didn’t have this problem before.
Thanks for your time and explaining sir, the tools you've shown in the beginning is the tools to hold when you change the gasket too? I am thinking to change the valve gasket of my s60 my friend told me ths I need a special tool. I wish you have video in how to change the vslve gasket can't find any video on volvo. Thsnks again for your time.
No problem, thanks for the comment. To just change the valve cover gasket you don't need any special tools because you're not touching the movement of the valve-train.
Ok I've watched all these videos. I had to replace the water pump. I locked the cams with the belt in place with zip locks so as to not lose the cams timing. The crank was never moved while putting on water pump. I put it back together and did not pay attention to the adjustment pulley tension. Belt was loose enough when i cranked it to start and it skipped over some of the teeth. I found one of the cam gears, the intake side has a razor mark i am assuming that is the mark i use. The exhaust has what looks like it would be a razor mark cut. Now in an other video the guy says that when you loosen the center bolt on the cam gears that it should be ableto spin completely 360 degrees without the cam turning. I dont understand how this would set the timing if this were the case. Ive never worked on a Volvo before. So i have no idea. Right now the mark on the cam gear is at about 4 oclock and the so called mark on exhaust cam, is at about the same. I cant however turn the cams to set the marks on their desired location, the cams i have tried to spin but they will not turn. Should i spin the crank shaft with the belt on to spin the cam shaft gears into place and then deal with putting the crank at top dead center any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
Question: got cylinder head rebuilt after water pump/timing failure. 8 Valves replaced. When preparing for cylinder head assembly, Volvo instructions call for crankshaft tool to be installed and crankshaft ‘clocked ‘ physically against tool. Q: where is the port located where tool inserts?!
I have a question sir. If the timing belt is removed and I am looking from the top of the engine down onto the VVT and I move the VVT back and forth to its maximum and minimum movements, I noticed On mine, that when I do rotate it to the minimum and maximum stops, the cam gear moves in word and outward from the cylinder head about 3/16 of an inch or so. Is this normal in your experience repairing these Volvos? It is almost as though the inside of my VVT has a helical gear within it. It does not spring back it will stay where I put it. Is this normal? Please know I have a VVT on both the exhaust and the intake. It is a 2004 2.5 turbo And this is how it came from the factory.
Cam gear movement from side to side is normal with no spring pressure.But you still have to set it up as stated in the video. A little movement in and out is normal but should be no wobble or noise. Hope this helps.
I'm at th3 point of turning the vvt hubs clockwise, the belt is on and time to lock the 3 bolts holding the gear. Intake side hub turned clockwise like yours to the full limit position just like yours. When I go to the exhaust vvt, I can't get any movement out of it. Is that normal? About to lock the 3 bolts and turn the key. ✌🏼💚Ty for the great video best one out there imo
Excellent video sir... my brother has a 2005 s80 2.5t and his timing belt got destroyed and jumped timing.. not sure if the the exhaust cam suppose to move in and out but it does.. any thoughts on that will help greatly thanks
Hello sir I have some more questions.. after watching your video 8 times I was wondering how to know when to lock the cams? Or just putting locking tool all to do? Do I have to rotate cams or crankshaft or anything?
I explained it in the video. It’s a procedure Volvo wants you to perform. I did that video a while back and the cams get locked down after the sequence is done.
Awesome video! Is it the same with a Classic 00 (97-00)? Mine only has VVT on the intake side. Should I go with the four teeth to the left before tightening? Going to change timeing belt due to an oil leak, I have a new kit with all gaskets and bolts, but I am afraid the leak is from the VVT and don't wanna change only timeing belt and gaskets just to see that the leak is from the VVT. Sorry for the bla bla but is there än easy way to see if my VVT is bad?
I’m looking at one of these. 2011 s40. Seller says it jumped timing and shattered 2 pistons. I’ve never heard of this happening, only bent valves. Is it possible it just bent valves?
@@motorcarnut I’ve watched many of your videos on the Volkswagen 2.0 TSI and I flip those cars quite often. Would you say this Volvo engine is any more difficult?
After I lock down the exhaust centerbolt 1 tooth behind, the entire hub will no longer turn. The gearwill only travel the counter clockwise and that is because of the 3 outside bolts are loose. Any suggestions?
Great question makes total sense ! The instructions are a bit incorrect ..those hubs have to be fully locked in a clockwise position before you tighten it ... and then you'll have a backwards counter clockwise adjustments / play as needed . I followed the video to the T until I ve realized it's supposed to be reversed
Man, that´s exactly the video I was looking for. But should the oil residue from the VVT/threads not be cleared before re-tightening? If I tighten the center screw with oil in the threads how can the torque spec be reached?
Hi, I hope you can help me... i did the timing Belt 1 Week ago, but nobody said against clock wise... i made it clockwise >.< is it bad??Did I destroy the tightener? And is it normal that the tightener is moving a littlebit when the engine is running and the cover is removed??!
@@motorcarnut drive.google.com/file/d/18fnhDycTqwHV_JouHCoOKXrxiViiTGwv/view is kind of movement ok? and i looked on vida, you are right, volvo say´s against clockwise... is bad if I release the bolt and move it from clockwise to against clockwise, or will I destroy the tightener ? That should be all my kind of worries about this topic. Thx
Ok, the tensioner movement is normal, now does the car run fine without any codes? If so I’d leave it alone, if not the whole timing procedure will have to be done, I don’t know if you just move it will it be ok.
@@motorcarnut thx again you! yeah the car runs fine, no issue Codes, everything like the idle seem pretty fine, so there will be no damage to the tightener or engine for the case if i just move it like in this case clockwise? If not i would like you said just leave it and nothing change.
i am confused. you tighten the center bolt so the whole unit moves to the limit position then you say to loosen the bolt in the center but you only shift the gear by itself to its far clockwise position. So i dont understand why you had to loosen the center bolt there.
Does this apply to the 2001 2.3T T5 as well? I'm guessing it is since it's the same block but different sleeves/boaring mostly if I'm correct. Great video!
When attempting to remove the exhaust vvt to replace the cam seal my cam locking tool broke( I got a cheap one and won't make that mistake again). Once I get a new tool can I just rotate the cam so the tool lines up correctly or is there a more complicated way needed to realign it? As I understand it, the notches on exhaust side line up below center. Am I missing something? Thanks
Hi awesome video just wanted to ask do the timing marks have to be lined up exactly 12 and 12. I have a 2001 s60 2.4T and I’m unsure if my timing is off cause I get code p0014 advanced timing on exhaust vvt can the belt not aligned right cause that? Thank you
Pretty much yes, the marks on the timing cover should align with the vvt gears. But if anything was removed the whole valve timing has to be redone with the cam lock tool, if not you will get that code. Also make sure the vvt solenoid screen isn’t clogged, the will set that code as well.
The driver side end of the cams where you will put the camlock tool on has a slot on each cam where the cam, locking tool attaches should those cams both be almost matching each other in a almost even horizontal position slightly offset from each other Haven’t found even one video any information or instruction in reference to what position those slots should be in when you attach the cam locking tool my intake cam is almost straight across horizontally at 3:00 my exhaust cam is sitting at about 1 o’clock should it be closer to horizontal more or less like the position of the intake? If so, how do I turn the exhaust cam separately from the intake cam to make them more in line horizontally?
OK I get that but my intake camshaft and my exhaust camshaft are not lining up where you would put the locking tool in the slot and run the bolt in. I don’t know if that makes any sense I’m going to try to explain a little different on the intake, camshaft side that you put the tool the Slot is at about 88 degrees just slightly above horizontal on the right side and my exhaust cam is at about 55 degrees Do I lock the camshaft, locking tool in on the exhaust side and then adjust it down with the tool and then lock the intake cam shaft as well?
From what I’ve watched in Red the cams should be almost horizontal with the serial number on the bottom side And the serial number on the exhaust camshaft on the top side The intake at about 88 degrees, and the lost camshaft slot at the exact mirror image
on the crank shaft pulley there is a hole with a sleeve in it. when the timing marks on cams are set that hole in the crankshaft pulley is at 12:00 is that a way to time the crankshaft if you can not see the marks on the crank shaft gear?
Im referring to the hole in your pulley In your video it was at 12:00 when your timing marks were aligned on the cams i have seen it in other videos as well when timing marks were aligned on the cams Thats just coincidence and not intentional then ?i cant see the marks on my oil pump gear and i am trying to be sure the timing is correct
I need help! I used a different method to time my engine and got it started but got the code P0016 and it eventually shuts off leading me to come to the conclusion the timing is slightly off. I am trying your method now Motorcarnut, but I am stuck at the end where I am supposed to move the cam gear to the correct location. With the Cam locking tool still in place I cannot move the gear any closer than 1 tooth on the exhaust side and 1 and a half teeth on the intake side as it explains. For example after locking the right cam gear at 88ft lbs, 1.5 teeth before TDC - How is it that the cam gears can move with one hand to align the timing marks while the locking tool is still in place?
That’s because of the variable valve gear that free wheels, that’s why they make all those special tools to align everything. They first want the cams locked by following the procedure then when the timing belt is on the other procedure to lock the timing gears 3 bolts.
@@motorcarnut Thank you for the quick response!!! Still trying to confirm though....if I aligned the exhaust cam at 1 tooth before TDC and intake came and 1.5 teeth before TDC with the cam locking tool and set to 88ft lbs.....am I good up until that point?
@@motorcarnut I think I get it now! I think my mistake is I am trying to line them up so they don't turn anymore and LAND on those marks where they cant move anymore - (1 tooth and 1.5 teeth before TDC respectively) which is preventing me from being able to center them correctly. I think I understand better now and I simply tighten the bolts to 88 ft lbs at that mark. Real simple. I think I was over complicating what was explained at 8:18 when you said "as you're turning it, it's at it's limit position to where it cannot turn anymore" Gonna try this next! Thanks for all your help, we appreciate your patience to help us all understand!
No problem, hopefully to got it. It’s hard sometimes to explain it more than I did. God forbid they had physical timing marks a key ways to make life more simple. They all go the cheap way. Lol
Hi! At 15:15 you rotate the intake VVT clockwise just a bit where then you say the timing is done, do you also rotate the exhaust VVT clockwise as well??
@@motorcarnut They shouldn't be all the way at the end of the ovals like that. The internal actuator has to be all the way at it stop before you install the belt. After installing the actuator on the camshafts you snug the center bolts then loosen your pulley bolts. Next CENTER the pulley bolts in the ovals by turning the pulley. When they are centered you snug the pulley bolts. Then rotate the actuator clockwise all the way to its stop. Then you loosen the center bolt and rotate the whole actuator, so your timing marks line up with the cover. Next, tighten the center bolts to spec. You do this for both pulleys. Install the timing belt with your marks lined up and adjust the timing belt tensioner. Once your belt is installed loosen the pulley bolts and install the actuator center caps and tighten to spec. Last while holding the center caps, you tighten the pulley bolts to spec. This will ensure the internal actuator is all the way at its end stop. The fact he could rotate the actuator, so the pulley bolts are at the extreme end of the ovals means your actuator internally isn't all the way at its stop.
I have a single vvt b5234t9 from an 04 c70 in my 98 S70 T5M m4.4 has no vvt control so no codes no matter where you set it. I'm about to do timing belt and tensioner as motor is at 75k but it's 20 years old. I had my exhaust cam at 4* retarded because i had a 12v switched source to power the solenoid at high rpm to remove overlap. I wanted to reset the cams to tdc when i do the belt and i do have the cam lock tool for the back along with crank tool, as well as cam gear lock tool for the front for doing belts without moving anything.
Hi there and thanks for the video. I was in the middle of changing the camshaft seals and then...boom I f***ed up I took off the vvt hub without the locking tool because I don't have it and now I couldn't even find it. My question is can I line up the notches at the back of camshafts horizontally to get the cams at the correct position?
You can but the problem with that is it may not be in the zone not to throw a check engine light or worse start miss firing. Because if the vvt’s were done before you won’t know if they set them with the tool or not. It’s not just the cams being horizontal but the vvts being set as well. That tool is like $45.00 on Amazon and shipped pretty fast. Just a thought. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@@motorcarnut HI there. i just want to thank you for this video . FYI i made my own cams looking tool (cant attach picture) and follow your instructions step by step and every thing was perfect and the car fired up from 1st try. i do appreciate your work .keep up the good job.
@@motorcarnut I have another question. If the vvt was rocking forward and backward (not with direction of the timing belt) I mean when you face the timing gears. Is that movement normal or the vvt must be changed?
You said to turn the engine counter clockwise and then clockwise and line it up. But I’ve read on forums that it’s locked up their engines and they hear loud clicking. Could you respond?
I can't speak for what someone else did or didn't do. Follow the video, you turn counterclockwise very slightly then clockwise to make sure everything is aligned BEFORE starting the engine. If everything is aligned after then nothing jumped and you're good to go.
I have a 2004 s60, it wasnt running when i got it, got it to run, the intake cam was off a tooth, then a while ltr i took of the intake cam off to replace cam seal, and now it wont turn over, do yall have any tips to help me
@@motorcarnut i followed it, but still think i still messed up, i tighted the exhaust vvt amd put the timing belt, then i tried to slide the vvt like at the end of the vid, but it it only goes like 3/4 instead of its limit position like the intake cam
I followed the video. I started having misfires plus crank/cam correlation code. I aligned everything, turned the engine by hand numerous times it all felt good. It did fire up once, then when I put everything together and got ready for a test drive it wouldn’t start. So right now I’m stuck, going to restart the job. Very low compression though with everything lined up. Averaging 80psi per cylinder
I also have done a basic timing job on this car (as in replacing belt with pulleys, I’ve also done cam seals). I just never dealt with the VVT hubs until watching this video.
I also removed the valve cover to make sure the lobes looked right, the cam locking tool is pretty spot on I’d say. So I really don’t know. It’s going to be the 5th time that I redo these steps after I reinstall the valve cover. I also have 223,xxx miles but I wouldn’t think it’ll just give up on me after retuning to factory specs??
What I did was loosen the center bolt, turned the cams CCW then CW to line up the marks TDC. Snug the center bolt, turned the unit CCW. Loosened the bolt, lined it up as mentioned in your video (1 tooth & 1 1/2). Then I torque the bolts and line it up TDC. Again, it feels good when I turn it by hand but it just won’t run.
What “issue”? You mean there are actually other car brands that have made their cars with simplified servicing in mind? *Scratching my head as you spin the loose sprockets, knowing all my Hondas have fixed sprockets!
This is a lie the crack shaft has the mark on the little wheel so you have to take off the metal wheel that covers that little wheel and the mar is right in the face of the wheel No on the teeth I hate those videos that no actually show you where it is is not video on all you tube that actually tell you this an show it very clearly I don't know why but is incredibly crucial for timing belt otherwise you will destroy you engine
there may be a mark on the little wheel idk,i can however confirm your accusation of a lie is incorrect as well as uncalled for i am looking at the mark on the crank shaft pulley right now. i don't know where you live ,but here in Texas if you call me out so boldly and falsely as a lie ...the next thing to come out yo mouth will be a tooth.but we also believe a man is only as good as his word;and we take that kind of sh!t very serious.different places do things differently for sure,but thats just how things are done DEEP in the HEART of TEXAS . good video Motorcarnut you helped me out a whole lot !
I agree I've searched all of utube and this was the best one great job teaching us because I couldn't find anyone to help me and your video helped me out so much
Motorcarnut, I was driving my 2004 Volvo V70 2.4 non turbo and a piece of the belt got up under the pullies and it jumped time and cut off. It isn't double variable valve timing only single, so how do I time it since its single variable valve none turbo? Thank you in advance for any info.
My Indy mechanic replaced the VVT on my 2005 2.5T. He watched a couple of YT videos to see how to do it - possibly yours. Once he was done, after a mile of driving it threw a code - which made him fear he had made an error. However, after clearing the code, it never reappeared. Kudos to you and others for posting this important guidance!
Thank you very much for the comment and feedback!!! Appreciate that!
Probably the best explanation of setting the timing I ever saw. So many thanks for your patience and understanding. Hope this will work on my d5244t4 similarly.
Thank you! Appreciated! Yes should be very similar
Thanks for explaining and recapping. The tip about turning it counterclockwise first and about 4 teeth was very helpful. I see your "experience" has enabled you to share the effective "tricks" to simplify!
Thank you for the positive comment!
Thanks for this...I watched the video about 5 times, set everything up (I thought) but when I turned the crank over twice the exhaust hub mark looked a tooth off. Didn't know if I could just spin the cam with the locking tool so I just did the whole thing over again and it purrs like a kitten. Thank you so much.
Thank you! Glad your back on the road!
You could have jumped the cam a tooth after loosening the tensioner and clamping the belt to the other cam gear.
I am just about to change the head gasket on a 2006 Volvoxc70. I have been scared ______less about this part of the job. I think I can now remove the timing belt and lift the cams with some degree of confidence thanks to your video.
Thanks, it ain’t so bad just mark things as you take them apart .
I am in the process of the exact same job. Removing CAMS and head to replace valve seals and hg. Let us know how it goes !! Good Luck !!
Explains the process better than VIDA can !
Thanks bro, appreciate it
Your ability to explain this has blown me away!
Our new to us 05 xc90 with the 2.5T Recently while driving semi uphill on a 90F day gave out and lost power displayed “low coolant stop safely” and then “no oil pressure stop safely” then when we were stopped I looked outside and the coolant had dumped out the passenger-ish side and of course was steaming. I had tried the key just to see and it cranked very slow and would not crank over.
After some minor tinkering and a compression test the cylinders from left to right read (aprox) 60-50-60-50-70 during the compression test we could only get the car to crank very slow with the key then tried a starter bypass button while full battery and the even hooked to jumpers.
My father in law says he believes the timing belt may have slipped a tooth or something and is out of time now which seems likely after looking into head gasket issues.
My 2 questions are does this same method apply to our 05 xc90 or is there a difference?
And does the timing issue sound likely to you? I apologize for the huge comment and loaded question haha your knowledge has really opened my eyes up to this all as a new Volvo owner.
Thank you in advance!
Thank you for the compliment, appreciated. To me it’s sounds like you blew the head gasket and warped the cylinder head, hence the low compression. But the slow cranking worries me too. Hopefully you didn’t partially seize the engine. With all spark plugs out, try turning the crankshaft with a 1/2 drive ratchet and socket and see if it turns without too much resistance.
@@motorcarnut thank you, I will check into that!
@@motorcarnut another question for you :)
I drained the old oil and just started to poke around in it and it doesn’t appear to be a significant amount of water mixed in, also it seems there is very little but of metal glitter in the oil unfortunately, there really wasn’t a lot but not what I was hoping to see!
Does this still seem like the head gasket is the issue?
I am comfortable pulling off the heads and getting into it I just need a few things to make sure I’d be putting it back together correctly and to spec.
I will before that of course pull the spark plugs and try to turn the crank to check if seized any, just need to get the tire off and get in the plastics haha.
I really appreciate you taking the time to read my comments and share your experience!
No problem
There is not supposed to be any water in the oil and definitely not metal particles. Hopefully you didn’t destroy the engine bearings. The crank test should let you know. Good luck
Thanks for explaining this. Helps put into perspective. I'm actually going to have to check timing. Since I'm getting an ECM-341C code on the exhaust side. Replaced the cam sensor and housing to no avail, although it did look like oil leaked into the cam housing.
But checking the timing on the exhaust is the last thing to check before giving up
No problem! Yes these Volvos can be tricky to line up.
Best video I've seen explaining this process. Thank you!
You're very welcome!
No seriously... thank you Motorcarnut. I just got a xc90 with a slipped belt and this couldnt be more helpful. Now it's time to make my own timing lock tool unfortunately
Btw the instructions to make tool are in the book for the Volvos that have 5cyl, I’m using my 01-06 s60 book as a guide, it has instructions for both vvt timing and non vvt. Honestly buy the tool, did the job with custom made and could only do intake side, the steel wasn’t hard enough. Make sure to buy the cam locking tool or you’re screwed big time. Just so you all know, definitely not an understatement. I’m a big DIYer and I was able to torque, but it was not easy and to torque down to 89 ft lbs on the center cam/vvt hub bolt without rotation, it puts a lot of force on the homemade tool and bends regular 1/4 inch steel, BUY THE HARDENED TOOL STEEL ONE!!!!! - my 2¢
@@motorcarnut hey can I ask if your Volvo engine was surging and stalling? I have the same vehicle it turns off on it's own and the rpm keep reving also the engine keeps rumbling like having trouble to stay on did you fix yours and now it's good
No, that car had a blown head gasket
great video and tips to refresh my memory before I replace front cam seals on my 2005 xc70. especially timing specs and tips. thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Sure no problem! Thank you for the feedback
To loosen the crank center nut turn counter clock-wise use a size 30mm impact socket.
To tighten:
The 4 bolts of crank vibration damper up to 2002:
25 nm (18-ftlbs) then angle 30 degrees after.
For crank vibration damper from 2002:
25 nm (18 ft-lbs)angle 60 degrees after
The center nut 180nm (132 ft-lbs)
Camshaft gear with vvt, 3-bolts to 10 nm (7.3 ft-lbs)
Camshaft gear without vvt, 20 nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
Camshaft gear center bolt 120 nm (88.5 ft-lbs)
Timing belt tensioner 20 nm (14.7 ft-lbs)
Extra helpful, thanks for sharing
I used this video in conjunction with the Volvo service notes on the matter. Video was better to follow than the notes due to some Swedish translation errors (eg “remove bolt” when it should say “loosen bolt”) imho.
Very grateful to you for this clip during a stressful time doing cam seals, water pump etc.
Car started first time. The VVTS are not in the exact angular position they were beforehand. I could easily twist them a little back to where I marked them BUT I’m glad I set it back to factory and will take it to Volvo or an engine specialist so they can set optimal angle on a VIDA now that I’ve done all the grunt work and fixed my oil leaks.
Could not have done this job without the cam-lock tool either.
Thank you, really appreciate taking the time to comment.
@@motorcarnut at what part of the video did you remove the CAM lock tool (time on video - please ! and thank you ! )
PS I have a XC90 with 2.5 T (2005) it looks identical so Im guessing its the same engine-set up, DOHC, VVT x 2
@@motorcarnut hi again. I’m wondering if I may trouble you for a little wisdom.
My 2.5T xC90 has been running fine since I replaced my cam seals and belt parts. I used this clip to remount and set the VVTs. Started first time and been running OK. A little less pepp than before and the idle surges ever so slightly each couple of seconds. Engine light has been on too so I figured it wasn’t optimum anyway as I left the pulley bolts hard right in the slots. Before I began both pulleys had the bolts sitting roughly in the middle of slot.
Anyway I finally took it to Volvo so they could scan it. Exhaust cam is running at just under +22deg. The recommended range is -8 to +8deg.
I figure that the pulley is maybe 10-15deg difference from where it was before cam belt change.
Do you think the VVT itself could be at fault? Or the solenoid? I can shift the pulley back to my original markings but I’m not sure that will reduce the +22 deg or increase it.
The intake is fine. I’m very certain nothing slipped whilst torquing up the VVTS but I’m open to being wrong there. Any advice?
You messed something up, I don’t think it’s the vvt or solenoid. You could try putting the cam back to it’s original position and see if it helps clean the engine light.
@@motorcarnut yep, for now I’ve loosened the three pulley bolts on the exhaust cam and twisted the VVT anticlockwise to the original position. About halfway in slots.
Going to Volvo again tomorrow to get them to measure the angle . If it’s improved then I know I’m on right track. Otherwise I guess I’ll be watching your clip again. Cheers
Great teacher and very informative video.
Glad you enjoyed it! And much appreciated!
Hmm don't see anything about the 1 and 1-1/2 teeth offset in the OEM service info. Volvo says turn the VVT phasers to full clockwise position, line up the gear marks with the timing marks with the three little bolts approximately centered. The torque the big bolts down. The loosen the three little bolts, install and tension the timing belt, and finally tighten the three timing gear bolts. Wondering where you got the tooth offset spec?
Thanks for the comment. It’s in the alldata database. Couple of other people stated discrepancies from the factory manuals and when they followed the manual they got timing codes, then followed what I posted and were fine. So I have no idea why.
@@motorcarnut Interesting! I got the procedure from AllData, for a 2004 Volvo XC70 2.5 Turbo dual VVT. Just eyeballed the cam slots since I didn't have the cam or crank locking tools. Fired right up, no codes!
Wow, you got lucky then. Probably just did a timing belt? Because everything free wheels and needs all these special tools if you’re doing a head removal or more. I think the car in the video was a 2009 idk if there were variations between them, don’t think so.
@@motorcarnut This one came from the "butcher shop" as a no-start, timing belt was way off. Once running, it was leaking oil everywhere up top lol. I pulled the cams out and replaced all 4 cam seals. Was going to pull the VVT actuators off, but they actually looked to be in the right place, so decided to leave them attached to the cams :)
You guessed right! lol
Hey saw your channel before, you know your stuff too, great channel and you seem like caring knowledgeable mechanic as well.
Just did this today, wrote the steps down so itde be easier to follow while doing it and happy to say it fired up no problem! At first i attempted to follow what ever vida told me and it wouldnt start and gave me a cam inlet code...
That's great. And the reason I made that video. The factory manuals can be confusing to people who are not seasoned mechanics so I try to explain them in layman's terms.
Спасибо Вам большое, очень четко объясняете настройки этого не совсем простого механизма, очень полезное видео, желаю Вам крепкого здоровья и успехов во всём🤝!
Thank you very much! I really appreciate the comment!
This video came in clutch for my V70
Great, good luck!
Motorcarnut, I was driving my 2004 Volvo V70 2.4 non turbo and a piece of my belt came apart and it must have jumped time because it cut off and wouldn't start back up. I'm going to replace the belt and was curious as to if I do my timing the same as your video seeing that my Volvo is a non turbo 2.4?
Thanks in advance and you do have a new subscriber in me .
Thank you your video is easy to understand and gets me closer then any other . Mine has only exhaust side vvt. I set everything as in video put together enough to fire . I fired it up and there is a loud squeeling sound now like a belt squeel . You rhink i might have tightened the belt to much ?
You are welcome, That or the belt tensioner if not new it's probably worn.
@motorcarnut ok I adjusted everything but I still think I need a new tensioner . It seems to rev fine , but at idle it shakes like hell and throws misfire codes . Ran like a top when seals went bad
I may have messed up the reseting of the vvt after initial timing . I'm a little confused . Do I want the final turn to have the hub turned to the right or the left ? And the sprocket should stay on time right ? Sorry to bother you and I appreciate the help bigtime ! I know cars and fix lots of them . But this isn't normal lol.
Valve timing is definitely off
Left and sprocket should stay in time correct
Great video, but I would change where the teeth are placed before the final adjustment. If you put the exhaust 1 1/2 tooth before and the intake 2 teeth before the timing mark when you do the final adjustment the three bolts wouldn't be bottomed out in the grooves. That way you would know for certain that you had adjusted to the correct limit rather than just having the bolts bottoming out in the bolt grooves.
Did you do it that way? The information is from Volvo and never had a problem yet. But thanks for the information and comment! Appreciate the extra information.
@@motorcarnut I did and whoever replaced the timing belt before me had the crank sprocket bolts even further to left in the grooves than I did. The car had been running great but the damn Volvo PCV system was completely plugged up and pushing oil past the camshaft seals so I replaced the seals and the PCV system. 165k miles and getting around 27 miles per gallon!
This video helped me out so much!!! Thank you for saving my ass!!!
Lol, no problem, glad it helped!
Excellent explanation
Thank you!
Makes some sense to me now, I did some reading and some note taking when I had my T belt off. My Ex VVT total travel is 2 teeth, the intake total travel is 3 teeth, so when you set yours at and 1 and 1.5, thats exactly half, that centers the inner and outer part of the VVT hub. You have to visualize or know what the inside of a VVT looks like to understand. Now....Volvo or VIDA says... to do a belt you turn the crank CW past the mark 1/4 turn or 90 degrees, then back up CCW to the mark again, essentially what they are having you do is, make full contact with the VVT at the extreme CW position or limit of the VVT, so that why you hear people say, turn the VVT fully CW then install the belt. Thats for the belt, not the VVT, remember the VVT works off of oil pressure, when the engine is off there is none to move the VVT. Then you ask why 2 degrees on the Ex and 1.5 on the int, because intake valves are bigger, and hence can't move out of time as much with piston collision.
Today I pulled #1 plug and put a straw in, the crank pulley marks line up ONE TOOTH BTDC, IOW if I rotate the crank fwd one tooth the piston is at TDC, WTH?
A lot of modern vehicles set the timing just before top dead center to avoid piston valve contact when assembling, on the crank gear there are 2 marks as I explained in my video the pointer goes in the centre of the valley in between those 2 hair line marks.
@@motorcarnut Belt is on, runs the same, no CEL so far. I'm gonna source a Volvo FSM to read up on this.
What am I missing? Why do you even have to loosen the 3 nuts and mess with them on each sprocket? Cant you just put the sprockets back on where you took them off? They have the spring loaded play. So, if you just made 2 marks (1 for fully advanced, and 1 at rest). Cant you just put them back in that same spot?
You really can’t because once you release the tension on the timing belt everything can move because once you do you will throw the timing off and will have to lock the cams in the back and reset the vvt units like I show in my video.
Was always under the impression the cam gear 3 bolts should be close to centered between the oval holes? Least from the factory it was. That gives you room for adjustment if your a few degrees off. Also performance guys usually run the intake with a couple degrees of advance.
It’s actually wherever they end up after doing the timing procedure.
How about making marks on the timing belt itself that match with the marks on the cam and crankshaft teeth for another safety check? And if you're replacing the timing belt (as I will be) copy over those marks onto the new belt.
These engine are way too sensitive as far as the timing is concerned to do it that way, you can try it and let me know how that works out.
Marking the belt and the heads/block at both cams and the crank with the harmonic balancer off after locking the cams works great. If you do this it doesn't matter where the gear marks end up. Just make sure the cams are turned fully clock. If the car was good before, it'll be good after. Reinstall the belt by doing crank mark first, stuff the gap with a shop rag to pin the belt in place. run the belt up the right, non adjust side over the intake cam (fully clocked to the right). Pin the belt to the intake gear with a needle nose vice grip. Get the tensioner to its loosest setting and the run the belt across a right-clocked exhaust gear. Pin that belt and gear with anther needle nose vice grip. Bring the bottom of the belt from the crank up around the water pump and meet at the smooth tensioner pulley for easiest install. If you've done it right, all the slack is on the left side between the crank and the exhaust pulley. That is soaked up by the tensioner adjustment.
@@matthewgilhuly2213 Thanks for that. It seemed _logical_ to me and one extra level of redundancy to make sure you don't put things together wrong. I'm just starting the work tomorrow or the next day so your comment came at the perfect time. I have a a new white paint marker ready for the job...
Excellent video! Does the same priciple apply to their inline 6 cylinder engines?
Not really, it’s a little different
@Motorcarnut Is the info perhaps in the Haynes manual or do you know anywhere I can get it?
@Thexpertoneverything If you have a library card you can go online and look for auto repair manuals, they are a great no cost source of information.
Thank you for explaining everything good
No problem, thanks for the comment I appreciate it
I am replacing the timing belt on my wife’s 2004 Volvo S60 2.4. It broke while my wife was driving the car. So all three pulleys have spun different ways. So I understand about the timing and the notches. But Do you have a video of how to install the camshaft tool on the end of the cams? I would like to know what I have to take loose and how to install it on the back. The tool that locks the cams in place. I cannot find a video on that. Very good video BTW, thanks.
At 1:40 in the video I show the tool and how to install it. You have to take the cam covers off on the rear of the engine and then remove the stator center screw on each cam then install the tool in the vertical slots.
Thank you very much, I’ve worked on a lot of cars but never foreign. Also timing is something I’ve always stayed away from, I’m gonna try to tackle this on my own. But I’m definitely stressed out about it. Your video has helped a lot! Thank you!
Thank you and don’t be stressed just take your time don’t rush and you’ll be fine. Good luck
The Timing belt broke off without damaging the valves you must be damn lucky!
Excellent job 🦾
Thank you! Appreciated
Hello I have a 05 xc90 and followed this and have a ecm 340b after startup, runs ok. Replaced old sensor but no change . Tried 1 n 1 tooth but barely runs lol thinking 1 n 2 tooth. 😅.
Make sure sensor is installed correctly, some model they can crack and misalign the sensor. Then I’d recheck timing if you didn’t have this problem before.
Thanks for your time and explaining sir, the tools you've shown in the beginning is the tools to hold when you change the gasket too? I am thinking to change the valve gasket of my s60 my friend told me ths I need a special tool. I wish you have video in how to change the vslve gasket can't find any video on volvo. Thsnks again for your time.
No problem, thanks for the comment. To just change the valve cover gasket you don't need any special tools because you're not touching the movement of the valve-train.
@@motorcarnut thanks for the info, It seems its only valve gasket I got some oil leak at the spark plug not much just wet of oil.
Hi the procedure is the same for the 2002 Volvo v70 town cowntry turbo engine thanks?
If you engine is the same double vvt and 2.5 then yes
Ok I've watched all these videos. I had to replace the water pump. I locked the cams with the belt in place with zip locks so as to not lose the cams timing. The crank was never moved while putting on water pump. I put it back together and did not pay attention to the adjustment pulley tension.
Belt was loose enough when i cranked it to start and it skipped over some of the teeth. I found one of the cam gears, the intake side has a razor mark i am assuming that is the mark i use.
The exhaust has what looks like it would be a razor mark cut.
Now in an other video the guy says that when you loosen the center bolt on the cam gears that it should be ableto spin completely 360 degrees without the cam turning. I dont understand how this would set the timing if this were the case. Ive never worked on a Volvo before. So i have no idea. Right now the mark on the cam gear is at about 4 oclock and the so called mark on exhaust cam, is at about the same.
I cant however turn the cams to set the marks on their desired location, the cams i have tried to spin but they will not turn.
Should i spin the crank shaft with the belt on to spin the cam shaft gears into place and then deal with putting the crank at top dead center any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank you
If you follow the video you should be good. I don't have any Volvos in the shop right now to reference what you did or didn't do.
Thanks Joey
Hey forgetaboutit
Question: got cylinder head rebuilt after water pump/timing failure. 8 Valves replaced. When preparing for cylinder head assembly, Volvo instructions call for crankshaft tool to be installed and crankshaft ‘clocked ‘ physically against tool. Q: where is the port located where tool inserts?!
You don’t need any tool for the crankshaft when there is a belt and you follow video for top dead center on crank pulley sprocket.
Are you using a cam locking tool during this process
Yes
Where should the gear marks be before I put the cam tool on ?
Got to follow the video, I don’t remember off hand
Do you apply cam locking tools with everything lined up/tdc?
Yes
I have a question sir. If the timing belt is removed and I am looking from the top of the engine down onto the VVT and I move the VVT back and forth to its maximum and minimum movements, I noticed On mine, that when I do rotate it to the minimum and maximum stops, the cam gear moves in word and outward from the cylinder head about 3/16 of an inch or so. Is this normal in your experience repairing these Volvos?
It is almost as though the inside of my VVT has a helical gear within it. It does not spring back it will stay where I put it. Is this normal?
Please know I have a VVT on both the exhaust and the intake. It is a 2004 2.5 turbo And this is how it came from the factory.
Cam gear movement from side to side is normal with no spring pressure.But you still have to set it up as stated in the video. A little movement in and out is normal but should be no wobble or noise. Hope this helps.
I'm at th3 point of turning the vvt hubs clockwise, the belt is on and time to lock the 3 bolts holding the gear. Intake side hub turned clockwise like yours to the full limit position just like yours. When I go to the exhaust vvt, I can't get any movement out of it. Is that normal? About to lock the 3 bolts and turn the key. ✌🏼💚Ty for the great video best one out there imo
Should be fine, yes. And thank you for the comment, appreciated!
Hey, i have xc70 b5254t2, and every time on last step my exhaust wheel didnt move on this oval holes to the opposite site. what am I doing wrong??
Hard to tell. Make sure those bolts are loose enough to turn. These Volvo engines have to be exact or you will have cam codes.
Excellent video sir... my brother has a 2005 s80 2.5t and his timing belt got destroyed and jumped timing.. not sure if the the exhaust cam suppose to move in and out but it does.. any thoughts on that will help greatly thanks
Thanks ! In and out movement is normal.
Hello sir I have some more questions.. after watching your video 8 times I was wondering how to know when to lock the cams? Or just putting locking tool all to do? Do I have to rotate cams or crankshaft or anything?
I’m not sure what you’re referring to?
What did you have to do before locking the cams?
I explained it in the video. It’s a procedure Volvo wants you to perform. I did that video a while back and the cams get locked down after the sequence is done.
Awesome video! Is it the same with a Classic 00 (97-00)? Mine only has VVT on the intake side. Should I go with the four teeth to the left before tightening? Going to change timeing belt due to an oil leak, I have a new kit with all gaskets and bolts, but I am afraid the leak is from the VVT and don't wanna change only timeing belt and gaskets just to see that the leak is from the VVT. Sorry for the bla bla but is there än easy way to see if my VVT is bad?
Or mine is maybe not spring loaded?
No it’s different.
Would this work for my 03volvo xc90 please let me know
It's different, I believe.
about the tool does it fit other cars (other volvos) or is it model specific. thanks
Yes, It's engine specific
I’m looking at one of these. 2011 s40. Seller says it jumped timing and shattered 2 pistons. I’ve never heard of this happening, only bent valves. Is it possible it just bent valves?
Most of the times it doesn’t damage the pistons but it could.
@@motorcarnut I’ve watched many of your videos on the Volkswagen 2.0 TSI and I flip those cars quite often. Would you say this Volvo engine is any more difficult?
Thank you! I would say not really but they do require their own set of special tools for setting up valve timing.
Great vedio
Thank you for the comment.
Thank you so much.
No problem, thanks for the comment, I appreciate it!
thank you for your videos and content
my friend and i have a bet: where is your accent from?
Thank you ! Ok where?
@@motorcarnut i said new york he thinks PA
You’re right NY
After I lock down the exhaust centerbolt 1 tooth behind, the entire hub will no longer turn. The gearwill only travel the counter clockwise and that is because of the 3 outside bolts are loose. Any suggestions?
You have to follow the video as I don’t have that information in front of me right now. You must of did something wrong.
Great question makes total sense ! The instructions are a bit incorrect ..those hubs have to be fully locked in a clockwise position before you tighten it ... and then you'll have a backwards counter clockwise adjustments / play as needed . I followed the video to the T until I ve realized it's supposed to be reversed
You are amazing.
Thank you
Man, that´s exactly the video I was looking for. But should the oil residue from the VVT/threads not be cleared before re-tightening? If I tighten the center screw with oil in the threads how can the torque spec be reached?
You don’t have to clean the thread’s you’ll be fine.
.
Hi, I hope you can help me... i did the timing Belt 1 Week ago, but nobody said against clock wise... i made it clockwise >.< is it bad??Did I destroy the tightener? And is it normal that the tightener is moving a littlebit when the engine is running and the cover is removed??!
If the car runs properly, that’s fine. And the tensioner will move a little, that’s normal.
No problem. I’m best contacted here on my channel.
@@motorcarnut drive.google.com/file/d/18fnhDycTqwHV_JouHCoOKXrxiViiTGwv/view is kind of movement ok? and i looked on vida, you are right, volvo say´s against clockwise... is bad if I release the bolt and move it from clockwise to against clockwise, or will I destroy the tightener ? That should be all my kind of worries about this topic. Thx
Ok, the tensioner movement is normal, now does the car run fine without any codes? If so I’d leave it alone, if not the whole timing procedure will have to be done, I don’t know if you just move it will it be ok.
@@motorcarnut thx again you! yeah the car runs fine, no issue Codes, everything like the idle seem pretty fine, so there will be no damage to the tightener or engine for the case if i just move it like in this case clockwise? If not i would like you said just leave it and nothing change.
i am confused. you tighten the center bolt so the whole unit moves to the limit position then you say to loosen the bolt in the center but you only shift the gear by itself to its far clockwise position. So i dont understand why you had to loosen the center bolt there.
Just follow the video
What's the torque spec on those 3 bolts for cam gear ?
89 inch lbs
@@motorcarnut thank you .
Does this apply to the 2001 2.3T T5 as well? I'm guessing it is since it's the same block but different sleeves/boaring mostly if I'm correct. Great video!
If both cams are variable and look the same, then yes. Some models and years have only 1 can that's variable, then no.
When attempting to remove the exhaust vvt to replace the cam seal my cam locking tool broke( I got a cheap one and won't make that mistake again). Once I get a new tool can I just rotate the cam so the tool lines up correctly or is there a more complicated way needed to realign it? As I understand it, the notches on exhaust side line up below center. Am I missing something? Thanks
No, your correct. The tool only goes on one way so you’ll be fine.
Hi awesome video just wanted to ask do the timing marks have to be lined up exactly 12 and 12. I have a 2001 s60 2.4T and I’m unsure if my timing is off cause I get code p0014 advanced timing on exhaust vvt can the belt not aligned right cause that? Thank you
Pretty much yes, the marks on the timing cover should align with the vvt gears. But if anything was removed the whole valve timing has to be redone with the cam lock tool, if not you will get that code. Also make sure the vvt solenoid screen isn’t clogged, the will set that code as well.
Perfect thank you so much and absolutely makes sense of what’s going on, appreciate you very much
No problem, thanks
The driver side end of the cams where you will put the camlock tool on has a slot on each cam where the cam, locking tool attaches
should those cams both be almost matching each other in a almost even horizontal position slightly offset from each other
Haven’t found even one video any information or instruction in reference to what position those slots should be in when you attach the cam locking tool my intake cam is almost straight across horizontally at 3:00 my exhaust cam is sitting at about 1 o’clock
should it be closer to horizontal more or less like the position of the intake? If so, how do I turn the exhaust cam separately from the intake cam to make them more in line horizontally?
The tool locks them in only one way, if you’re trying to to it without the tool you’re going to mess it up.
OK I get that but my intake camshaft and my exhaust camshaft are not lining up where you would put the locking tool in the slot and run the bolt in. I don’t know if that makes any sense I’m going to try to explain a little different on the intake, camshaft side that you put the tool the Slot is at about 88 degrees just slightly above horizontal on the right side and my exhaust cam is at about 55 degrees
Do I lock the camshaft, locking tool in on the exhaust side and then adjust it down with the tool and then lock the intake cam shaft as well?
From what I’ve watched in Red the cams should be almost horizontal with the serial number on the bottom side
And the serial number on the exhaust camshaft on the top side The intake at about 88 degrees, and the lost camshaft slot at the exact mirror image
Yes
on the crank shaft pulley there is a hole with a sleeve in it. when the timing marks on cams are set that hole in the crankshaft pulley is at 12:00 is that a way to time the crankshaft if you can not see the marks on the crank shaft gear?
No, has to be like in the video
Im referring to the hole in your pulley In your video it was at 12:00 when your timing marks were aligned on the cams i have seen it in other videos as well when timing marks were aligned on the cams
Thats just coincidence and not intentional then ?i cant see the marks on my oil pump gear and i am trying to be sure the timing is correct
Yes just a coincidence.
@@motorcarnutis it possible for the crank be 180 degree out? if so how can i verify if it is or is not ?
I need help!
I used a different method to time my engine and got it started but got the code P0016 and it eventually shuts off leading me to come to the conclusion the timing is slightly off.
I am trying your method now Motorcarnut, but I am stuck at the end where I am supposed to move the cam gear to the correct location.
With the Cam locking tool still in place I cannot move the gear any closer than 1 tooth on the exhaust side and 1 and a half teeth on the intake side as it explains.
For example after locking the right cam gear at 88ft lbs, 1.5 teeth before TDC - How is it that the cam gears can move with one hand to align the timing marks while the locking tool is still in place?
That’s because of the variable valve gear that free wheels, that’s why they make all those special tools to align everything. They first want the cams locked by following the procedure then when the timing belt is on the other procedure to lock the timing gears 3 bolts.
@@motorcarnut Thank you for the quick response!!! Still trying to confirm though....if I aligned the exhaust cam at 1 tooth before TDC and intake came and 1.5 teeth before TDC with the cam locking tool and set to 88ft lbs.....am I good up until that point?
Once the cams are locked in place, just follow the procedure from there, don’t have any Volvos right now to show it again.
@@motorcarnut I think I get it now!
I think my mistake is I am trying to line them up so they don't turn anymore and LAND on those marks where they cant move anymore - (1 tooth and 1.5 teeth before TDC respectively) which is preventing me from being able to center them correctly.
I think I understand better now and I simply tighten the bolts to 88 ft lbs at that mark. Real simple. I think I was over complicating what was explained at 8:18 when you said "as you're turning it, it's at it's limit position to where it cannot turn anymore"
Gonna try this next!
Thanks for all your help, we appreciate your patience to help us all understand!
No problem, hopefully to got it. It’s hard sometimes to explain it more than I did. God forbid they had physical timing marks a key ways to make life more simple. They all go the cheap way. Lol
Would it be the same process for an 04 s60r?
Yes
Hi! At 15:15 you rotate the intake VVT clockwise just a bit where then you say the timing is done, do you also rotate the exhaust VVT clockwise as well??
Yes, I said you do the other one to meaning the exhaust the same way.
@@motorcarnut Gotcha! Thanks!
awesome
Thanks !!
When you do the final turn on the cvvt hub, should the gear bolts reach the ends of the slots completely? Or will they just come close ?
As long as you’re following the video where ever they end up it fine
Ok
@@motorcarnut They shouldn't be all the way at the end of the ovals like that. The internal actuator has to be all the way at it stop before you install the belt. After installing the actuator on the camshafts you snug the center bolts then loosen your pulley bolts. Next CENTER the pulley bolts in the ovals by turning the pulley. When they are centered you snug the pulley bolts. Then rotate the actuator clockwise all the way to its stop. Then you loosen the center bolt and rotate the whole actuator, so your timing marks line up with the cover. Next, tighten the center bolts to spec. You do this for both pulleys. Install the timing belt with your marks lined up and adjust the timing belt tensioner. Once your belt is installed loosen the pulley bolts and install the actuator center caps and tighten to spec. Last while holding the center caps, you tighten the pulley bolts to spec. This will ensure the internal actuator is all the way at its end stop. The fact he could rotate the actuator, so the pulley bolts are at the extreme end of the ovals means your actuator internally isn't all the way at its stop.
How I explain it in the video is correct. I do hundreds of Volvos and that’s how Volvo wants it done.
@@motorcarnut I'm looking at factory service info right now and your method isn't in the service steps.
Great vid thanks for posting! I have a 01 xc70 is timing the 2001 2.5 the same process?
It yours has dual vvt, yes
I have a single vvt b5234t9 from an 04 c70 in my 98 S70 T5M m4.4 has no vvt control so no codes no matter where you set it. I'm about to do timing belt and tensioner as motor is at 75k but it's 20 years old. I had my exhaust cam at 4* retarded because i had a 12v switched source to power the solenoid at high rpm to remove overlap. I wanted to reset the cams to tdc when i do the belt and i do have the cam lock tool for the back along with crank tool, as well as cam gear lock tool for the front for doing belts without moving anything.
Different engine so doesn’t relate to the video
@@motorcarnut same engine different intake cam. Bore and stroke make no difference on cam timing. And the vvt hub is still set the same way.
Hi there and thanks for the video. I was in the middle of changing the camshaft seals and then...boom I f***ed up I took off the vvt hub without the locking tool because I don't have it and now I couldn't even find it. My question is can I line up the notches at the back of camshafts horizontally to get the cams at the correct position?
You can but the problem with that is it may not be in the zone not to throw a check engine light or worse start miss firing. Because if the vvt’s were done before you won’t know if they set them with the tool or not. It’s not just the cams being horizontal but the vvts being set as well. That tool is like $45.00 on Amazon and shipped pretty fast. Just a thought. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
@@motorcarnut thanks for your reply
@@motorcarnut HI there. i just want to thank you for this video . FYI i made my own cams looking tool (cant attach picture) and follow your instructions step by step and every thing was perfect and the car fired up from 1st try. i do appreciate your work .keep up the good job.
Great job on making your own tool! And thanks for the positive comment!
@@motorcarnut I have another question. If the vvt was rocking forward and backward (not with direction of the timing belt) I mean when you face the timing gears. Is that movement normal or the vvt must be changed?
You said to turn the engine counter clockwise and then clockwise and line it up. But I’ve read on forums that it’s locked up their engines and they hear loud clicking. Could you respond?
I can't speak for what someone else did or didn't do. Follow the video, you turn counterclockwise very slightly then clockwise to make sure everything is aligned BEFORE starting the engine. If everything is aligned after then nothing jumped and you're good to go.
@@motorcarnut oh ok, I thought you meant turn the engine a whole rotation ccw. Thanks for your response, this video helped me immensely!
No problem, glad to help
Need more clear..i just want to open my t6 s80 to change head cylinder gasket but i dont struction to follow it🤦🏻♂️
Just follow the steps in this video. It’s not too hard if you understand what you’re doing. Take time and do it slow.
@@motorcarnut appreciate 👍🏾
I have a 2004 s60, it wasnt running when i got it, got it to run, the intake cam was off a tooth, then a while ltr i took of the intake cam off to replace cam seal, and now it wont turn over, do yall have any tips to help me
These engines are tricky to time. You probably messed up the timing. Follow the video to retime the the valve train.
@@motorcarnut i followed it, but still think i still messed up, i tighted the exhaust vvt amd put the timing belt, then i tried to slide the vvt like at the end of the vid, but it it only goes like 3/4 instead of its limit position like the intake cam
They don’t have to be even in the end as long as they are as far as they will go after following the whole process.
@@motorcarnut ok well i feel kinda dumb now, done it like 4 times now thinking i was doing something wrong
Good video but invest into a big light
Thank you, I did. Lol
After doing this I get crank but no start, could it be something else?
What exactly did you do?
I followed the video. I started having misfires plus crank/cam correlation code. I aligned everything, turned the engine by hand numerous times it all felt good. It did fire up once, then when I put everything together and got ready for a test drive it wouldn’t start. So right now I’m stuck, going to restart the job. Very low compression though with everything lined up. Averaging 80psi per cylinder
I also have done a basic timing job on this car (as in replacing belt with pulleys, I’ve also done cam seals). I just never dealt with the VVT hubs until watching this video.
I also removed the valve cover to make sure the lobes looked right, the cam locking tool is pretty spot on I’d say. So I really don’t know. It’s going to be the 5th time that I redo these steps after I reinstall the valve cover. I also have 223,xxx miles but I wouldn’t think it’ll just give up on me after retuning to factory specs??
What I did was loosen the center bolt, turned the cams CCW then CW to line up the marks TDC. Snug the center bolt, turned the unit CCW. Loosened the bolt, lined it up as mentioned in your video (1 tooth & 1 1/2). Then I torque the bolts and line it up TDC. Again, it feels good when I turn it by hand but it just won’t run.
My question I don't see the bottom mark
It’s so small it’s ridiculous, just look at the video of me showing it on the paper
What is the code for this issue?
There are many codes for timing problems, this video is for valve timing alignment.
Could that cause a ECM-6140 error code to come on?
Yes or dirty or failing cam solenoid.
@@motorcarnut I replaced the cam solenoid and the same code came up.
Then it’s probably one of the cams is off. A scan tool can tell
@@motorcarnut I have a vida dice scanner. Will that work?
Perfect, that’s what it’s made for
So Volvo could have easily fixed this issue with keyed VVTs, why Volvo why?
.
What “issue”? You mean there are actually other car brands that have made their cars with simplified servicing in mind? *Scratching my head as you spin the loose sprockets, knowing all my Hondas have fixed sprockets!
Wow, double VVT. I have a V70 with Exhaust VVT and an S40 with none.
Yes these put out more horse power and better fuel economy
This is a lie the crack shaft has the mark on the little wheel so you have to take off the metal wheel that covers that little wheel and the mar is right in the face of the wheel No on the teeth I hate those videos that no actually show you where it is is not video on all you tube that actually tell you this an show it very clearly I don't know why but is incredibly crucial for timing belt otherwise you will destroy you engine
All that information is in my video if you watched the whole thing and understood it.
@@motorcarnut Seriously! Some people don't pay attention. Great video, carnut! Super helpful.
Thank you I appreciate it
there may be a mark on the little wheel idk,i can however confirm your accusation of a lie is incorrect as well as uncalled for i am looking at the mark on the crank shaft pulley right now. i don't know where you live ,but here in Texas if you call me out so boldly and falsely as a lie ...the next thing to come out yo mouth will be a tooth.but we also believe a man is only as good as his word;and we take that kind of sh!t very serious.different places do things differently for sure,but thats just how things are done DEEP in the HEART of TEXAS . good video Motorcarnut you helped me out a whole lot !
I agree I've searched all of utube and this was the best one great job teaching us because I couldn't find anyone to help me and your video helped me out so much
Very chaotic
They do that on purpose
Motorcarnut, I was driving my 2004 Volvo V70 2.4 non turbo and a piece of the belt got up under the pullies and it jumped time and cut off. It isn't double variable valve timing only single, so how do I time it since its single variable valve none turbo?
Thank you in advance for any info.
I have a video warning people of that belt problem. The set up is different unfortunately I didn’t make a video yet on the single.