Thank you for making this video, great explanation of how a hydrostatic pump and motor works. On the dry axle issue, maybe a solution is to fit something like a Scott Oiler - it's a system that automatically lubes motorcycle chains but something like it fitted to those dry points might help.
I've seen ways to remotely grease inaccessible zerk fittings on heavy equipment with permanently attaching small grease hoses routed to an easy to access location, but never seen a method for hard to access grease fittings on a u-joint.
Van you think of any reason the rotation of the pulley put in reverse the pump works otherwise I have some flow of oil but no power to the drive. This is the 5th time taking it off ad priming everything perfectly. But can't get power unless I rotate the pulley backwards. It's not supposed to rotate that way plus no way to reverse it ...that would not work anyway. I'd take it apart again but I can't think how thats possible. I just fix all the issues now this happens it worked fine before.
Great info & explanation. Are any parts that are inside/attached to the housing you were discussing used for/by the pto system for blade engagement or is the hydrostatic system used solely for the mowers forward/reverse/speed application only?? Thanks
On this model I believe it is for transmission function only. The variable swash plate pump will only generate flow with pedal input (by design). Some hydro transmissions do have a small auxiliary pump that can be used for raising a mower deck or power steering etc. Larger equipment with bigger hydraulic needs will usually have a dedicated gear driven pump for those circuits.
Can you please explain to me who you seperated the hydraulic drive pump assembly from the tractor. I have removed all the bolts ,and tripple checked, but I can't get the assemble to seperate? HELP Please
Its been a while, but I think there may have been some well hidden cap bolts on the face of the housing. Take a look at 0:35 and see if you removed a bolt at each of those holes. If so, I often use a soft faced mallet to then tap all around the edges and on each side to break loose the gasket seal. Avoid prying if possible, the aluminum can crack pretty easily.
You could always take that drive shaft to a drive shaft repair shop and have them make you a brand new drive shaft with different u-joints that are sealed from the factory like automotive style you joints
Just had this issue happen to my 2320 with 450 hrs. Took the hydro pump cover off replaced everything. Got it just out back together and everything is spinning fine. No fwd or reverse? Dread taking it back apart. Thinking the swash plate is kicked?
If no movement in either direction but the pump still rotates, then either you may have an air bubble in the pump preventing it form actually pumping the fluid, the swash plate is not moving / applying any angle onto the pump pistons, or fluid is somehow bypassing. Any change in the sound when you apply fwd/rev? Hopefully its something simple!
It sounds normal when operating. When you push on the pedals you can hear the hydraulics sounds like they normally do. Everything was a swap over to the new cover so slide the old off. Moved over the race bearing and swash plate. and then slide the new cover on. Any way to release any trapped air? Thanks for the reply!!
@@jaysunptell Hmm. If you can hear the hum of the hydraulic pump when you give it pedal input than it sounds like the swash plate must be applying at least a little bit of pressure on the pistons. Normally if the hydraulic fluid resevor is full it should self bleed any air pretty quickly. Any chance the range selector is in neutral or not fully engaged?
The shifter is engaged. Jacked the rear of the tractor and it is engaging. Tried getting to spin without resistance. Nothing. I did notice in this video you have your cover prepped different than what I did. The swash plate is held in by the pedal linkage on one side and a cap on the other side. When I swapped everything to the new cover. I placed the cover and swash plate first over the middle plate and pushed down to compress the pump springs and start the bolts to install the cover. Then after that I installed the pedal linkage and the cap on the ends. Which was difficult as the swash plate pivot post were not staying centered as the pump springs were pushing on it. After wrestling it got them I think aligned and screwed together. I’m wondering now if that swash plate is actually not seated correctly and is kicked and not perpendicular to the cover. I may need to take it all back apart and check. The next time I will try installing the swash plate position first with the end cap and pedal linkage like in your video then apply pressure evenly to install the cover bolts. ??
@ModernSurvivalist So my stepdad and I tore it all down again. We are getting pretty good at it. 2 hours to get the drive back on the bench. In opening it up we found that the ball bearing side had come apart and the ball bearings were loose and some imbedded in the new housing cover. Ordering another housing cover and the ball bearings and the two washers that go around them. I know last time getting everything squeezed together was tricking and we did not have the thrust plate bolted on. I know the next time we will bolt that fist them slide the cover over and bolt to the middle plate. Nervous things will move around again? Any tricks to getting it together without moving while compressing and bolting? Thinking a clamp might help to squeeze it together then bolt the cover? Thanks for any help.
Actually used to work for Deere. Had a 1023 come in for the same failure. Somehow that grease zerk fitting was omitted from the owner’s manual. Deere eventually issued a PIP for it after enough owners with low hour machines experienced failure.
My 2305 is about the same, very hard to get to the front grease fitting.. I've only been greasing it once a year, maybe I should go for 2x.. My HST has another issue that maybe you have some insight on.. JD and the local shop are no help whatsoever.. I feel my HST is getting way too hot, up over 215F at times using the belly mower. It has about 700hrs on it and I've been pretty strict to the maintenance schedule. I've hit something twice in tall grass that stopped the tractor (belly mower doesn't have much slip I guess) with some resulting fair amount of grit on the fluid filter when I did the change. I've since started only mowing till the temp around the fluid level window reaches 180 (about 30-45 mins), then I stop till it cools. This is with outside temp in the upper 70's. Speed of the tractor seems a little slower than new, but not significantly. Any ideas? Maybe a restriction, worn parts, something warped?
Sorry just saw this comment. I am not sure on this one. If there is a cooler for the HST fluid (I can't remember and don't have one here to check) make sure it isn't obstructed and any fans / belts etc. are functioning.
Just started tearing a 2320 apart today, that drive shaft broke off at this " stub shaft " . I changed the drive shaft last year at 800 hours because the engine side ujoint on the shaft broke apart. So I'm not sure why the stub shaft snapped this year. Anyway, I really appreciate your video.
Sorry to hear you had the same issue. The one I fixed only had 200 hours which seems way early for a u-joint failure. The splined stub of the transmission input shaft had snapped off when the broken u-joint allowed the shaft to start flailing. If your u-joints were still good on the second failure I wonder if it might have been partially fractured from when your front u-joint went out. These spin at engine RPM, which is higher then a typical PTO shaft, drive shaft, etc. Lots of forces when they start flailing, especially if the tractor is at full throttle like is typical for mowing, etc.
@@ModernSurvivalists lol you said it, I was running a power broom in the snow when it snapped. It was like I hit an IED! So when the first ujoint failed last year, it was all rounded off like the one in your hand was, so it actually still ran just with a lot of vibration . I think it ran Like that , vibration and shuddering for a long time, and after I replaced it, the next weakest link was the transmission side. That's my theory anyway
@@rrud59 I wasn't able to locate any torque specs online either. I did refer to the exploded diagrams you can find for part numbers and to assist me with the teardown. I just torqued it similar to how I would a engine case. First put in all fasteners finger tight, then tighten them snug in a cross pattern working from inside to outside.
@@rrud59 Also - in order to remove the hydraulic drive from the transmission case I had to cut out the round crossmember tube welded in the frame. I used a sawzall and welded it back in once the transmission was all back together.
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
I'm not a hydrostat trans pro, by any means. But, used to rebuild lift trucks.. gas, diesel, hyd pumps, motors, cyls., etc. Im about to pull my 1st JD stx 38 hydrostatic trans apart, so I was digging around for info on my John Deere. I got it for free, and ran great, but had weak trans. Only cut grass twice, and it won't move now. I'm not paying $700 for a used trans. So grass can grow, until I receive carb kit for my mower, or find a trans rebuild kit for this. Mine won't move, and whines, in either dir.. Im not sure what type of trans you have.. If yours is moving in Rev, solid and strong, but nothing at all in For. , try checking all the linkages. Basically, pump Pushes oil one direction or the other. If Rev is good, charge pump, creating the oil pressure, is good. Charge pump makes pressure. A valve or radial pump gives you direction. . . In your case, oil is not going to forward direction, but you have Rev. You have pressure, it's just not going to forward. I'd check all linkages, make sure the valve, or actuator is traveling all the way in both directions, nothing is loose, or stuck in them. Make sure there's not a problem with a neutral switch or anything. If there's a neutral safety switch, and it's misaligned, it may stop the fluid when trying forward. If it's anything more than that,, you may need a shop.. Again, sorry I can't be of more help. I know the theory behind it,, and I'm able to find problems once I have a machine apart, and I can see things, but,, i Don't have enough experience with them, and can't give you the direct answer. . Maybe this will give you some clues, help you figure it out. Good luck. Shop rates must be insane right now, hope you can fix it.
If it's your hydrostat may as well haul it to the junkyard and get what you can out of it. Hydro transmissions on lawn mowers was the dumbest idea anyone ever came up with.
Sad to say from the description of your problem it does sound like it's your hydrostat transmission. Father had a husqvarna that did the same thing. Would go backwards but not forwards till you got off, yanked the mower backwards a ways then it'd make a few laps around till the forward gears locked up again. That mower wasn't even much over 5 years old when it started doing it either. He parked it and got a regular transmission murray. Sad to say murray's went out of business a few years ago.
@@danielsmit11 ya, I second that. I'm second guessing rebuilding mine. $300+, just for kit. I have to pull it, disassemble, make sure housing itself isn't bad or worn. Starting to think it's not worth the kit or the time to rebuild it. I've never been a fan of hydro trans. It's nice when it works, but don't seem to last long, and if you have inclines on property, it'll just cause more abuse. Sad, because last owner of mine,, job ust rebuilt mower deck, and engine has low hours, but $300, is a lot to put into a mower, and it'll still be a hydrostat. Thinking about grabbing a 5 speed manual with blown motor online, but that's a lot of work also. Take into account all the time needed to change it, probably not woth it. Maybe I'll pull the 13hp, try selling deck online, since it was just rebuilt, and scrapping the rest. It's really not worth anything once a hydrostat trans goes. If all belts are good, shift linkage and free motion piston is free and set properly, it's your trans. Take the loss, get rid of future head aches, and get one with a manual trans. That way, its only a clutch or belt, when things go wrong.
@@chrisludston1455 sadly pretty much all have opted to go with hydro stats now. Only one I've seen with a regular trans was a smaller craftsman at lowes, believe it was a 32 inch deck even larger craftsman's above that had garbage hydro stats.
It would depend on the equipment - on many machines they have hydraulic pumps that are driven directly via the engine gear case and do not disconnect with the clutch & transmission.
Hey I've got a question on my hydrostatic I have forward but no reverse does that make sense to you and it's on a Parker heavy duty integrated hydrostatic system. I sure would appreciate any help
Not familiar with that unit, but many of them have a bypass / pressure relief of some sort than can be engaged to free-wheel / tow the machine. Sometimes just a lever, or a bolt you turn. It allows the fluid to the drive motor to bypass in a loop so that the output shaft can free-wheel. I am wondering if maybe that could be related to your issue?
@@ModernSurvivalists Thanks, I took it apart and found the tiny nut on the Reverse poppet valve came off and the spring backed off. Also there were 3 tiny pieces of metal inside the pump barrel. I think from the pump springs. This metal scored the port plate and bottom of the barrel so I am replacing those and reinstalled the nut on the poppet valve with lock tight. Keeping fingers crossed.
I did the repair for a farmer that's local to me but I don't have any idea what most shops or the dealership would charge. It's not a quick job unfortunately.
I have manufactured every single one of these parts and seeing this gives me ptsd lol. My dad ran the machine shop, his guys made all of the prototypes for these before they went to production
Do you mean you have forward, but no reverse - or vise versa? If so, both directions use the same pump / drive just push the fluid in the opposite direction, so I would check your linkage between the pedals and the swash plate. Might be as simple as a missing linkage pin! Hopefully : )
They probably left a greasing time periods out of the manual because it would deter people from buying it sounds like a problem with the build and should be recalled
Agreed. Whole damb thing should be recalled. Such bad luck with 2025r. They even left the same crap design for the u joints. No easy way to grease. That's the least of this things issues.
That is absolutely insane to put grease fittings like this where you can’t even get to them. I’ve heard of these failures being much worse than just that shaft but also taking the trans case with it. Huge failure.
It should be used on Hummer or humvee because humvee has large bump where transmission shaft and gearbox and disel tank remains and inside no space for luxury seats , I want to use only hydro lines to power rear wheels so that car floor can be flat .
Damn right! JD sadly has to get their act together. This is what I would expect from Chinese quality. My Lawn Tractor has had several faults that shouldn't have happened. Seat quickly fell apart, plastic hood cracking like an eggshell even though it's kept out of the sun, steering linkages are pitifully small, seat suspension rubbers crumble very often. The only good part about the machine is the Kawasaki engine and the Tufftorq transmission. Never JD again! It's also damaging for American manufacturing. Kubota for me next time. Good Japanese quality.
@@erichmacho5741 thank you for the reply Erich im sorry your machine went that way. My father spoke of JD getting to big for their own good all the way back in the 80s. He strongly supported massy Ferguson not as a single company, but a smaller manufacturer. The whole JD culture planted seed for today where if 3rd generation has parents and grandparents backing the product. They automatically want to buy JD because it’s familier. I can’t blame the consumer we all Like to think our elders are actually wise. The thing is their is laws to protect a consumer. Congratulations on expressing and forming a solution to your, own needs. I fully support your decision to buy Japanese machines. The job don’t wait just because the machine is down!
JD engineering: Artfully manipulating their customers to stop servicing their own machinery. The ultimate goal is a service industry where you never own a JD machine, you subscribe to a service.
This is where the design team has to separate from cost of production staff. Stupid designs usually win out because of cost to produce. Sad really., because a good product with horse crap cheap to produce out the door ideas win.$$$$
@@MikeThomasNYME nah. Hydros suck. Had a Husqvarna with hydro transmission crapped out within a couple of years. Wheels would lock up going forward and had to keep getting off jerk the lawnmower backwards to get it going forward again. Junked that lawnmower quickly and went back to Murray and troybilt. No need for hydro in a lawnmower, tractor...eh...maybe
@danielsmit11 That's because Husqvarna and the other cheap big box brands put cheap hydro transaxles in their machines because consumers just want something to be pretty and cheap. They use transmissions like the Tuff Torq K46 which is too small and weak for the 25hp tractors they put them in. K62 and larger hydrostatic transaxles and old peerless 15 hydros are nearly indestructible and last for decades.
@@MikeThomasNYME I'll stick with Murray's or troybilt. Have never had transmissions go out on one and have had them last for decades with little maintenance done.
Great job explaining how the transmission works.
Thank you!
Great video for explaining how the hydro transmission works. Thanks.
Excellent video, especially the warning about grease shaft u joints.
Thanks 👍
Thank you for making this video, great explanation of how a hydrostatic pump and motor works. On the dry axle issue, maybe a solution is to fit something like a Scott Oiler - it's a system that automatically lubes motorcycle chains but something like it fitted to those dry points might help.
I've seen ways to remotely grease inaccessible zerk fittings on heavy equipment with permanently attaching small grease hoses routed to an easy to access location, but never seen a method for hard to access grease fittings on a u-joint.
Great video and very informative. Thank you.
Hey man great video. Do you have one on how to tear down the transmission and replace the shaft? Thanks
Thanks! Sorry, I didn't film the entire process because I short on time.
Van you think of any reason the rotation of the pulley put in reverse the pump works otherwise I have some flow of oil but no power to the drive.
This is the 5th time taking it off ad priming everything perfectly.
But can't get power unless I rotate the pulley backwards. It's not supposed to rotate that way plus no way to reverse it ...that would not work anyway. I'd take it apart again but I can't think how thats possible. I just fix all the issues now this happens it worked fine before.
Isn't it possible to add a kind of rubber seal like in car transmission ?
Anyone know why these u-joints seem to lose their grease so fast?
MY 2320 did not have grease fittings. I have found and replaced the u joints that have greas fittings.
What's the RPM of the shaft?
Runs at engine RPM - driven directly from flywheel. @@Gareth96v1
Great info & explanation.
Are any parts that are inside/attached to the housing you were discussing used for/by the pto system for blade engagement or is the hydrostatic system used solely for the mowers forward/reverse/speed application only?? Thanks
On this model I believe it is for transmission function only. The variable swash plate pump will only generate flow with pedal input (by design). Some hydro transmissions do have a small auxiliary pump that can be used for raising a mower deck or power steering etc. Larger equipment with bigger hydraulic needs will usually have a dedicated gear driven pump for those circuits.
@@ModernSurvivalists
Ok thanks again for another great explanation to a additional question.
Can you please explain to me who you seperated the hydraulic drive pump assembly from the tractor. I have removed all the bolts ,and tripple checked, but I can't get the assemble to seperate? HELP Please
Its been a while, but I think there may have been some well hidden cap bolts on the face of the housing. Take a look at 0:35 and see if you removed a bolt at each of those holes. If so, I often use a soft faced mallet to then tap all around the edges and on each side to break loose the gasket seal. Avoid prying if possible, the aluminum can crack pretty easily.
Actually also pause at 0:26, there are a couple more on the bottom as well.
You could always take that drive shaft to a drive shaft repair shop and have them make you a brand new drive shaft with different u-joints that are sealed from the factory like automotive style you joints
Probably a good idea for anyone with this tractor.
Just had this issue happen to my 2320 with 450 hrs. Took the hydro pump cover off replaced everything. Got it just out back together and everything is spinning fine. No fwd or reverse? Dread taking it back apart. Thinking the swash plate is kicked?
If no movement in either direction but the pump still rotates, then either you may have an air bubble in the pump preventing it form actually pumping the fluid, the swash plate is not moving / applying any angle onto the pump pistons, or fluid is somehow bypassing. Any change in the sound when you apply fwd/rev? Hopefully its something simple!
It sounds normal when operating. When you push on the pedals you can hear the hydraulics sounds like they normally do. Everything was a swap over to the new cover so slide the old off. Moved over the race bearing and swash plate. and then slide the new cover on. Any way to release any trapped air? Thanks for the reply!!
@@jaysunptell Hmm. If you can hear the hum of the hydraulic pump when you give it pedal input than it sounds like the swash plate must be applying at least a little bit of pressure on the pistons. Normally if the hydraulic fluid resevor is full it should self bleed any air pretty quickly. Any chance the range selector is in neutral or not fully engaged?
The shifter is engaged. Jacked the rear of the tractor and it is engaging. Tried getting to spin without resistance. Nothing.
I did notice in this video you have your cover prepped different than what I did. The swash plate is held in by the pedal linkage on one side and a cap on the other side. When I swapped everything to the new cover. I placed the cover and swash plate first over the middle plate and pushed down to compress the pump springs and start the bolts to install the cover. Then after that I installed the pedal linkage and the cap on the ends. Which was difficult as the swash plate pivot post were not staying centered as the pump springs were pushing on it. After wrestling it got them I think aligned and screwed together. I’m wondering now if that swash plate is actually not seated correctly and is kicked and not perpendicular to the cover.
I may need to take it all back apart and check.
The next time I will try installing the swash plate position first with the end cap and pedal linkage like in your video then apply pressure evenly to install the cover bolts. ??
@ModernSurvivalist So my stepdad and I tore it all down again. We are getting pretty good at it. 2 hours to get the drive back on the bench.
In opening it up we found that the ball bearing side had come apart and the ball bearings were loose and some imbedded in the new housing cover.
Ordering another housing cover and the ball bearings and the two washers that go around them.
I know last time getting everything squeezed together was tricking and we did not have the thrust plate bolted on. I know the next time we will bolt that fist them slide the cover over and bolt to the middle plate. Nervous things will move around again? Any tricks to getting it together without moving while compressing and bolting? Thinking a clamp might help to squeeze it together then bolt the cover? Thanks for any help.
Actually used to work for Deere. Had a 1023 come in for the same failure. Somehow that grease zerk fitting was omitted from the owner’s manual. Deere eventually issued a PIP for it after enough owners with low hour machines experienced failure.
Thanks for the info
Excellent. Thank you!
My 2305 is about the same, very hard to get to the front grease fitting.. I've only been greasing it once a year, maybe I should go for 2x..
My HST has another issue that maybe you have some insight on.. JD and the local shop are no help whatsoever.. I feel my HST is getting way too hot, up over 215F at times using the belly mower. It has about 700hrs on it and I've been pretty strict to the maintenance schedule. I've hit something twice in tall grass that stopped the tractor (belly mower doesn't have much slip I guess) with some resulting fair amount of grit on the fluid filter when I did the change. I've since started only mowing till the temp around the fluid level window reaches 180 (about 30-45 mins), then I stop till it cools. This is with outside temp in the upper 70's. Speed of the tractor seems a little slower than new, but not significantly. Any ideas? Maybe a restriction, worn parts, something warped?
Sorry just saw this comment. I am not sure on this one. If there is a cooler for the HST fluid (I can't remember and don't have one here to check) make sure it isn't obstructed and any fans / belts etc. are functioning.
Just started tearing a 2320 apart today, that drive shaft broke off at this " stub shaft " . I changed the drive shaft last year at 800 hours because the engine side ujoint on the shaft broke apart. So I'm not sure why the stub shaft snapped this year. Anyway, I really appreciate your video.
Sorry to hear you had the same issue. The one I fixed only had 200 hours which seems way early for a u-joint failure. The splined stub of the transmission input shaft had snapped off when the broken u-joint allowed the shaft to start flailing. If your u-joints were still good on the second failure I wonder if it might have been partially fractured from when your front u-joint went out. These spin at engine RPM, which is higher then a typical PTO shaft, drive shaft, etc. Lots of forces when they start flailing, especially if the tractor is at full throttle like is typical for mowing, etc.
@@ModernSurvivalists lol you said it, I was running a power broom in the snow when it snapped. It was like I hit an IED! So when the first ujoint failed last year, it was all rounded off like the one in your hand was, so it actually still ran just with a lot of vibration . I think it ran Like that , vibration and shuddering for a long time, and after I replaced it, the next weakest link was the transmission side. That's my theory anyway
Oh and I had a question, do you know where I can find torque specs for a project like this? Besides the dealership?
@@rrud59 I wasn't able to locate any torque specs online either. I did refer to the exploded diagrams you can find for part numbers and to assist me with the teardown. I just torqued it similar to how I would a engine case. First put in all fasteners finger tight, then tighten them snug in a cross pattern working from inside to outside.
@@rrud59 Also - in order to remove the hydraulic drive from the transmission case I had to cut out the round crossmember tube welded in the frame. I used a sawzall and welded it back in once the transmission was all back together.
What type of hydraulic fluid did you use to refill it an do you use the same fluid for the axle part
This was a very low hour machine so we opted for the expensive JD stuff. I can't remember which, but I think it called for the low viscosity version.
I have a yanmar 425 hydrostatic transmission 4x4 not working why??
Great video. I have a question you might be able to help with. I have a 1990 Ariens tractor that is have a issue. The mower wont move forward and make a whining sound...it move backward strong and fast...just not forward. The belts seem to be tight, the fluid seem to be full, the linkage seems to be moving. The mower is in super good condition and hope to save it. Any help would be great...Thanks
I'm not a hydrostat trans pro, by any means. But, used to rebuild lift trucks.. gas, diesel, hyd pumps, motors, cyls., etc.
Im about to pull my 1st JD stx 38 hydrostatic trans apart, so I was digging around for info on my John Deere. I got it for free, and ran great, but had weak trans. Only cut grass twice, and it won't move now.
I'm not paying $700 for a used trans. So grass can grow, until I receive carb kit for my mower, or find a trans rebuild kit for this.
Mine won't move, and whines, in either dir..
Im not sure what type of trans you have..
If yours is moving in Rev, solid and strong, but nothing at all in For. , try checking all the linkages.
Basically, pump Pushes oil one direction or the other. If Rev is good, charge pump, creating the oil pressure, is good. Charge pump makes pressure. A valve or radial pump gives you direction. .
. In your case, oil is not going to forward direction, but you have Rev. You have pressure, it's just not going to forward.
I'd check all linkages, make sure the valve, or actuator is traveling all the way in both directions, nothing is loose, or stuck in them. Make sure there's not a problem with a neutral switch or anything. If there's a neutral safety switch, and it's misaligned, it may stop the fluid when trying forward.
If it's anything more than that,, you may need a shop.. Again, sorry I can't be of more help. I know the theory behind it,, and I'm able to find problems once I have a machine apart, and I can see things, but,, i Don't have enough experience with them, and can't give you the direct answer.
. Maybe this will give you some clues, help you figure it out. Good luck.
Shop rates must be insane right now, hope you can fix it.
If it's your hydrostat may as well haul it to the junkyard and get what you can out of it.
Hydro transmissions on lawn mowers was the dumbest idea anyone ever came up with.
Sad to say from the description of your problem it does sound like it's your hydrostat transmission. Father had a husqvarna that did the same thing. Would go backwards but not forwards till you got off, yanked the mower backwards a ways then it'd make a few laps around till the forward gears locked up again. That mower wasn't even much over 5 years old when it started doing it either. He parked it and got a regular transmission murray. Sad to say murray's went out of business a few years ago.
@@danielsmit11 ya, I second that.
I'm second guessing rebuilding mine. $300+, just for kit. I have to pull it, disassemble, make sure housing itself isn't bad or worn. Starting to think it's not worth the kit or the time to rebuild it.
I've never been a fan of hydro trans. It's nice when it works, but don't seem to last long, and if you have inclines on property, it'll just cause more abuse.
Sad, because last owner of mine,, job ust rebuilt mower deck, and engine has low hours, but $300, is a lot to put into a mower, and it'll still be a hydrostat.
Thinking about grabbing a 5 speed manual with blown motor online, but that's a lot of work also. Take into account all the time needed to change it, probably not woth it.
Maybe I'll pull the 13hp, try selling deck online, since it was just rebuilt, and scrapping the rest.
It's really not worth anything once a hydrostat trans goes.
If all belts are good, shift linkage and free motion piston is free and set properly, it's your trans.
Take the loss, get rid of future head aches, and get one with a manual trans.
That way, its only a clutch or belt, when things go wrong.
@@chrisludston1455 sadly pretty much all have opted to go with hydro stats now. Only one I've seen with a regular trans was a smaller craftsman at lowes, believe it was a 32 inch deck even larger craftsman's above that had garbage hydro stats.
Great video
What would Cause when you press in the clutch pedal to not disengage the hydraulics ?? is something broken inside
It would depend on the equipment - on many machines they have hydraulic pumps that are driven directly via the engine gear case and do not disconnect with the clutch & transmission.
Hey I've got a question on my hydrostatic I have forward but no reverse does that make sense to you and it's on a Parker heavy duty integrated hydrostatic system.
I sure would appreciate any help
Not familiar with that unit, but many of them have a bypass / pressure relief of some sort than can be engaged to free-wheel / tow the machine. Sometimes just a lever, or a bolt you turn. It allows the fluid to the drive motor to bypass in a loop so that the output shaft can free-wheel. I am wondering if maybe that could be related to your issue?
@@ModernSurvivalists Thanks, I took it apart and found the tiny nut on the Reverse poppet valve came off and the spring backed off. Also there were 3 tiny pieces of metal inside the pump barrel. I think from the pump springs. This metal scored the port plate and bottom of the barrel so I am replacing those and reinstalled the nut on the poppet valve with lock tight. Keeping fingers crossed.
@@mountainmike1685 Glad you got it figured out!
@@ModernSurvivalists Thanks!, I hope your video and other conversations help other folks fix their own equipment.
Good video thanks for the information.
How to change bearings n back tires craftman 16 horse overhead valve
Can that stub be replaced without having to disassemble the whole transmission
Unfortunately I don't think there is any way to remove the shaft without splitting the pump case.
If you have a JD2320 make sure you grease those ujoints!
I just had that stub break on my tractor any idea of how much it costs to fix
I did the repair for a farmer that's local to me but I don't have any idea what most shops or the dealership would charge. It's not a quick job unfortunately.
About how many hours does it take would you say?
A lot.
I have manufactured every single one of these parts and seeing this gives me ptsd lol. My dad ran the machine shop, his guys made all of the prototypes for these before they went to production
Thanks for commenting! Would love to hear your thoughts on the U Joint failures.
I have a forward and backwards one don't know why it doesn't work 😕 any ideas
Do you mean you have forward, but no reverse - or vise versa? If so, both directions use the same pump / drive just push the fluid in the opposite direction, so I would check your linkage between the pedals and the swash plate. Might be as simple as a missing linkage pin! Hopefully : )
@@ModernSurvivalists the inside of the shaft had shifted. There was a screw inside that holds a coupling it pushed it way back.
That drive shaft should be like a Honda goldwing shaft. It's completely inclosed in a sealed housing. No water no dirt can get to it.
Well glad I just missed out on that tractors
thank you
Nice video
They probably left a greasing time periods out of the manual because it would deter people from buying it sounds like a problem with the build and should be recalled
Agreed. Whole damb thing should be recalled. Such bad luck with 2025r. They even left the same crap design for the u joints. No easy way to grease. That's the least of this things issues.
That is absolutely insane to put grease fittings like this where you can’t even get to them. I’ve heard of these failures being much worse than just that shaft but also taking the trans case with it. Huge failure.
That appears to me as the hydrogear bdu21 hydrostat
Nice.👌🏻👌🏻
It should be used on Hummer or humvee because humvee has large bump where transmission shaft and gearbox and disel tank remains and inside no space for luxury seats , I want to use only hydro lines to power rear wheels so that car floor can be flat .
John Deere I avoid not that they are not good machines great machines but the company needs to be stopped it as began to crap on the consumer
Damn right! JD sadly has to get their act together. This is what I would expect from Chinese quality. My Lawn Tractor has had several faults that shouldn't have happened. Seat quickly fell apart, plastic hood cracking like an eggshell even though it's kept out of the sun, steering linkages are pitifully small, seat suspension rubbers crumble very often. The only good part about the machine is the Kawasaki engine and the Tufftorq transmission. Never JD again! It's also damaging for American manufacturing. Kubota for me next time. Good Japanese quality.
@@erichmacho5741 thank you for the reply Erich im sorry your machine went that way. My father spoke of JD getting to big for their own good all the way back in the 80s. He strongly supported massy Ferguson not as a single company, but a smaller manufacturer. The whole JD culture planted seed for today where if 3rd generation has parents and grandparents backing the product. They automatically want to buy JD because it’s familier. I can’t blame the consumer we all
Like to think our elders are actually wise. The thing is their is laws to protect a consumer. Congratulations on expressing and forming a solution to your, own needs. I fully support your decision to buy Japanese machines. The job don’t wait just because the machine is down!
JD engineering: Artfully manipulating their customers to stop servicing their own machinery. The ultimate goal is a service industry where you never own a JD machine, you subscribe to a service.
i would never buy any john deer. they are all about getting your money, ask any john deer owner
What manufacturer would you choose then
This is where the design team has to separate from cost of production staff. Stupid designs usually win out because of cost to produce. Sad really., because a good product with horse crap cheap to produce out the door ideas win.$$$$
Great video - crazy engineering
It sure is!
Garbage😢
Hydrostatic transmissions are garbage. No reason for them on riding lawnmowers in the first place.
Hydro is superior in almost everyway to a Gear Transmission for any lawnmower. Just do your homework and buy a good one. True for everything.
@@MikeThomasNYME nah. Hydros suck. Had a Husqvarna with hydro transmission crapped out within a couple of years. Wheels would lock up going forward and had to keep getting off jerk the lawnmower backwards to get it going forward again. Junked that lawnmower quickly and went back to Murray and troybilt.
No need for hydro in a lawnmower, tractor...eh...maybe
@danielsmit11 That's because Husqvarna and the other cheap big box brands put cheap hydro transaxles in their machines because consumers just want something to be pretty and cheap. They use transmissions like the Tuff Torq K46 which is too small and weak for the 25hp tractors they put them in. K62 and larger hydrostatic transaxles and old peerless 15 hydros are nearly indestructible and last for decades.
@@MikeThomasNYME I'll stick with Murray's or troybilt. Have never had transmissions go out on one and have had them last for decades with little maintenance done.
@@MikeThomasNYME like I said there's no need for hydrostatic on a riding lawnmower. A tractor maybe but even that's a toss up