Yes they can be helpful, I myself just never could find that perfect unneeded drill bit in my own collection. Was glad I could order exactly what’s I needed from McMaster, at a reasonably price. 👍
Great tip, been watching ur vids over in the uk for a while now... Will be trying this as soon as my next pin explodes! Especially like your c-clips on servo saver vid! Genius! Thanks!
I locked my diffs and started breaking pins like crazy. So you Sir are a real huge contribution to society .. you have answered my questions and found my solution. Thank you
Splendid! Glad I could help. Be careful though, because while these pins are way stronger. The planetary gears themselves can be pretty fragile and would be the next thing. If you continue having issues you might consider tweaking your diffs. However… Let me know if the simple pin upgrade mitigates your issues, I’d be curious to know after you’ve ran them for a bit.
I read about this exact fix on the Arrma forum, I have my drill bit blanks but I've been waiting for my normal diff service to swap to these pins. I run my Kraton on standard electronics, 18T pinion. 30k cst front, 50k rear, and 500k center diff fluid.
I want to thank you I’ve been watching your channel for a while now and you have a lot of great tips 👍 I’m ordering them pins today and keep doing what you do ✌️✊
Appreciate that my friend! I’ve never broken one of these new pins, they’ve been great. However I did learn that the cause of my breakages were in fact directly correlated with running the 20t pinion. So I dropped back down to a 16t but it wasn’t particularly because I was worried about breaking these pins, In fact they held up for a few runs with the 20t. I dropped to the 16t because I was having cogging issues. Anyway… This tactic is legit good though!
Very interesting how loose that little pin was and how much play was in there. Curious though, if that new pin still has a tiny amount of play in it, is there an actual size that goes in that with no play? Awesome video and very informative!
Actually yes, you want even less slop, pick up the M2C’s Out Drive cups he actually manufactured his with a slightly smaller hole. So the combination of the McMaster pins and his cups are nearly flawless in slop. You can find the details about that in this video. th-cam.com/video/6CUhUtJpR7c/w-d-xo.html
You've brought up something I've been curious about. The planetary gear is the only thing I've ever broke. It was the center diff, I got the red aluminum diff case and haven't broke one since. But, have you ever experimented with say putting a Mugan planetary gear, or an X-Ray pin, or an entire Tekno rear diff into your Kraton? Wouldn't it be cool to find some super strong gears from another brand that slide right in!? (my Talion V1)
Regarding all of the internal gears inside of the differential. I’ve never found a third-party company that made any of those. I’ve seen GPM make ring gears, and I’ve seen them make the spiral input gears. But I’ve never found a brand that actually made a planetary gear or the actual spider, gears, etc. your saying techno makes some? Can you send me a link? Also I’ve never heard of x-ray pins.
@@EastTactics Hi there, East Tactics. I was only using those companies as an example. If you watch someone break down a diff from a different company, a lot of them look very similar. I thought it would be cool if another brands gears happen to fit into Arrma diffs.
I just sent you a message on messenger,I’m wondering if these are better than stock and my best option.lately I’ve been liking to fly upside down for as long as possible wich needs a lot of throttle close to landing to actually land it.basically I end up landing with a real high wheel speed and breaking pins,I’m not landing on throttle but it snaps pins doing so.any input would be appreciated brother👊🏻😎
Another great bench vid/custom diff tip no doubt. Curious what 2 of those would cost approx? I live in New Jersey and would look for myself right now but getting ready for work unfortunately...
I’ve never broken one of these custom pins. Not a one. Even for the short time I kept the same gearing. I did learn how we that the main cause for whi I was breaking the stock pins, aside from the fact that they are weak, was because I was rocking to high of a pinion gear for the stock setup (20T) I’ve dropped to a 16t for a long time, and even more recently (due to cogging w/the 16t) dropped back to the stock 12t. So there is a direct correlation to high tooth pinions and braking these pins. That all said I did rock the 20t pinion with these new pins for a bit, and they held up. It was the planetary gear that became the weak point. Let it also be noted that M2C outdrive cups have slightly Smaller holes (on purpose) to clean up slop, and prevent breakages to both pin and gear. Watch this vid for the deets th-cam.com/video/6CUhUtJpR7c/w-d-xo.html Bash on brother!!! 😎👍
Hey, great vids I'm having the same problem and just ordered some hardened drill blanks to do this mod, could you let me know if doing this helped as I've tried everything else, I do have quite a big motor a 1650kv on my kraton with a mojave chassis so could be down to that rich duperbash said to make sure you are off throttle when jumping as that can brake them too, be great if you could get back to me, take care gaz😉👍
Hey Gav, sorry for the late response, it seems like some comments dont land in my feed, or I just somehow overlooked this. I apologize. I would definitely say that these hardened still pin have help. I haven't broken one yet... and its been well over a month since I installed them. I must point out though, that I dropped back down to a 16T pinion and dropped my punch to 6 at the same time... still, these pins have NO slop and are tough as all get out. So ya I really recommend. how have things been since you posted this comment 2 weeks ago?
@@EastTactics hi thanks for your reply, haven't broken any lately so fingers crossed and I did turn down my punch too, keep up the good work always enjoyed your vids take care gaz 😉
Hi I measured the Kraton original diff pins with an outside micrometre and the are 2.25mm so I think the ones that you had purchased are a bit thicker if the original are the same like mine, my kraton is V4 2020 I don't know if maybe they changed them but I have the same problem with the front and rear diffs
Joseph Caruana, interesting, I too have the v4 Although I think I snagged mine in 2019. Either way the three different sizes that I ordered from McMaster.com we’re definitely a much better fit and got rid of that slop. My question to you is regardless of what your micrometer Reading was, are you experiencing the loose slop with the stock pins? You won’t be disappointed with picking up those upgraded pins from McMaster, I have yet to break one. I will say however the biggest contributing factor to why I was busting pins in the first place was simply because I had to high a tooth pinion gear and my punch setting cranked all the way to nine. After dropping back down to a 16 t pinion gear life has been grand. It is really nice to know though that I’ve got tank quality pins in my differentials.
@@EastTactics hi yes it is a good idea but at the moment we are not receiving any mail from US due to the pandemic but as soon as we get to normal I will order some spare for the time being I was going to try and change my centre diff oil because I have 500,000 CST in it and I am using a 14t pinion because I fitted everything on a Mojave chassis
@@josephcaruana9165 u can order drill blanks in the uk that's what I did I ordered some 2.2mm and haven't broken anything since, just Google drill blanks uk and u will find them, hopefully that helps take care gaz 👍
@@gaviscon4304 Thanks, but 2.2mm are smaller, the 2.25 are already loose so I think they have to be a bit bigger. First time I service my diffs I will check the proper size.
@@josephcaruana9165 I ordered 2.25mm to and they were too tight 2.2mm were about right remember things get hot and expand so u don't want them to tight but haven't had any problems, just finished building a kraton 6s with a mojave chassis and a 1650kv motor and with that motor still haven't broken them cheers gaz
Oxford RC, Nice, curious how recent of a purchase are your current pins? I wonder if Arma actually did a re-spec. Maybe they now send out pins that are actually closer to 2.25 mm. They upgrade everything else LOL
Yes, it comes with 4, and 4 is all you need. Install instructions say: (edited by me to make more sense 😝) INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING DROOP SCREWS: Since there is no hex on the bottom side of these upgraded droop screws, you will then insert your 2 mm driver thru the top of the arm and down thru the droop screw hole. Then put the droop screw on the end of the 2 mm driver and push the droop screw up thru (up from the bottom) of the arm turning counter clockwise while applying pressure with your thumb and thread the screw backwards into the hole. It is advised that you use blue locktight to offer some resistance since this screw is going into an existing threaded hole. When installing droop screw into new arms,keep constant pressure on screw as it is cutting threads when it goes in. Hope that is helpful. If you have any other questions let me know. 👊💪😎
EL Valenin, worth a shot, might even be better than a Dremel. The number one thing you really need to make sure you take measures on, at least for the Dremel, is its potential to fly off the second you get to the end side of the metal. I actually cut a milk carton in half and positioned it in a way that It provided a sort of 360° catchall for a when the sucker goes flying off, if it goes flying off. Also it’s super hot.
Im planning getting the exb but honestly the rear diff is complete trash even shimmed the diff sun gear gets chiped so im planing getting a v4 diff and shim it and do your modifications i just want a reliable diff
I hear ya... Plus if you asked me I would rather get the V4 and do the third market upgrades myself. Simply because even the EXB chassis, as well as the shock towers, simply just don’t compare to the quality of M2Cracing products
@@EastTactics to me the v4 was the same price to the exb+electronics the exb has more stuff going for it than the v4 that you have to ditch the radio servo and other stuff day 1
Surchaufeur, agreed… You definitely have to ditch that spectrum radio immediately. And you’re right, the stock Servo is not that great, however if you shim the servo savor it helps a ton! Still having the ability to choose what motor and ESC you want as well as the servo etc. and a controller and receiver is nice with the EXB. The EXB is a beast! Love the black too!
Funny. Most of my problems are on the front diff. My problems also started when a put in a bigger pinion. Tried shimming it, and nothing. Always break the pin and planetary on the front diff
That is interesting, guess the weak point goes one way or the other... tell me some details about what you're running in the front diff. What diff fluids are you running? Also what tooth pinion have installed. Are your tires stock. What punch setting you on? I would suggest running 20k rear, 200-500k Center, and 80k Front For the stock Kraton motor and ESC, I wouldn't go past 16 tooth. I also have my punch setting set to 6, instead of nine. I run those Hardened Diff pins in both front and rear now too. I haven't broken a pin or planetary gear since. Have you since resolved this issue. IF so, What did you change? Bash on brother
@@EastTactics I have a notorious, not a kraton. I'm running 100k front and back, and 300k center. Running stock tyres, and a 14t pinion. It's a notorious, so punch is on level 9. But punch level should affect more the back diff. I only broke 1 time the back planetary. Already 4 times in front. I'll try to find those rods, and give it a try. But it's funny, it only started to break planetaries after I swapped the 12t for the 14t
@@ELValenin it's not the case. It's fatigue. Last one broke on flat dirt. Last time I used 3 shims and it's still running strong. Ordered aluminium diff cases to see if it help
Nelson Marques I also have a noto and had this problem , I found that running 100k front but 50k in the rear pulled some pressure off the front . Also 300k centre
Fantastic only pins I use. I literally haven’t broken a pin since and it’s been well over a year. Strength aside, one of my biggest reasons I love these pins Is the slop they get rid of. Just an FYI… M2C’s outdrive cups Also help to get rid of slop when you’re using the stock pins Because they manufactured the whole slightly smaller.
do you end up picking your up then. thats convenient. One thing I noticed that was a bit frustrating with my experience, with McMaster-Carr was they're elusiveness for shipping costs. I ordered twice from them, each order had 2 pc. They shipped all four pc's separate, and charged me for shipping on each one. I called in very irritated and they refunded me half my shipping costs. So... i'll be mentioning in the description next to the link for others to see, that if they order multiple items (sizes, etc) they should leave a comment in the shipping instructions to ship all items together.
@@EastTactics I ordered a few sticks but it didn't say how much shipping was going to be. I guess I will find out when it ships. What part of the country are you in? I am in Washington state.
Update Turns out I was charged 7 dollars for shipping, per box they sent me, and they split my order into 4 shipments! As we were discussing, one thing I noticed that was a bit frustrating with my experience, with McMaster-Carr was they're elusiveness for shipping costs. I ordered twice from them, each order had 2 pcs. (so I expected to pay shipping twice only) They shipped all four pc's separate even though some came from the same location, stating that they do not ship metal rods together because they could damage each other (which is joke). So, they charged me for shipping on each one. I called in very irritated, and they refunded me half my shipping costs. So... i'll be mentioning in the description next to the link for others to see, that if they order multiple items (sizes, etc) then you need to leave a comment in the "shipping instructions" that says to ship all items together. let me know if you run into this issue. Did you order multiple of the same size rod... they better ship them together. If they don't... let me know, and call and complain and get refunded. their products are awesome quality... but this shipping shenanigans is annoying.
Almost shelved the Kraton for good due to perpetually breaking the pins, thanks for the vid. My difs are upgraded and so far so good.
That’s awesome brother. Glad you found this video. Those pins never broke on me so hopefully the same for you.
THANK YOU! Your attention to detail is what we need in the hobby. My rods are on the way :)
Awesome brother! Thx for commenting
Just the information I was looking for. Great job throughout. Thank you.
Awesome, thank you!
Thank you so much.. I have hardened steel rods that work way better then stock. So much better once again thank you
Thank you. Thx for commenting. 🤜🤛
I always keep broken drill bits , the bits are hardened and work great!
Yes they can be helpful, I myself just never could find that perfect unneeded drill bit in my own collection. Was glad I could order exactly what’s I needed from McMaster, at a reasonably price. 👍
Great tip, Thank you East Tactics!!
Anytime brother!
Great tip, been watching ur vids over in the uk for a while now... Will be trying this as soon as my next pin explodes! Especially like your c-clips on servo saver vid! Genius! Thanks!
- Appreciate the compliment Joe!
I locked my diffs and started breaking pins like crazy. So you Sir are a real huge contribution to society .. you have answered my questions and found my solution. Thank you
Splendid! Glad I could help. Be careful though, because while these pins are way stronger. The planetary gears themselves can be pretty fragile and would be the next thing. If you continue having issues you might consider tweaking your diffs. However… Let me know if the simple pin upgrade mitigates your issues, I’d be curious to know after you’ve ran them for a bit.
You sir are a gentleman and a scholar haha. Thanks for the troubleshooting and advice.
Thank you mj, Appreciate the kind words
Thank you for the great tip 👍
I read about this exact fix on the Arrma forum, I have my drill bit blanks but I've been waiting for my normal diff service to swap to these pins. I run my Kraton on standard electronics, 18T pinion. 30k cst front, 50k rear, and 500k center diff fluid.
Man, Did I buy a K6S with perfect timing?? This mod box has saved me many times already!
Nice! Broke a pin eh?
@@EastTactics Yep, couple of them…so far
I want to thank you I’ve been watching your channel for a while now and you have a lot of great tips 👍 I’m ordering them pins today and keep doing what you do ✌️✊
Appreciate that my friend! I’ve never broken one of these new pins, they’ve been great. However I did learn that the cause of my breakages were in fact directly correlated with running the 20t pinion.
So I dropped back down to a 16t but it wasn’t particularly because I was worried about breaking these pins, In fact they held up for a few runs with the 20t.
I dropped to the 16t because I was having cogging issues.
Anyway… This tactic is legit good though!
My brother thank you a MILLION. I have been having the same problems. THANKS 🙏🏽 keep the videos coming.👍🏽
Very interesting how loose that little pin was and how much play was in there. Curious though, if that new pin still has a tiny amount of play in it, is there an actual size that goes in that with no play? Awesome video and very informative!
Actually yes, you want even less slop, pick up the M2C’s Out Drive cups he actually manufactured his with a slightly smaller hole. So the combination of the McMaster pins and his cups are nearly flawless in slop. You can find the details about that in this video.
th-cam.com/video/6CUhUtJpR7c/w-d-xo.html
@@EastTactics Oh perfect as I literally just picked up the M2C drive cups! Thank you for the info!
holy fuck the link for product is BURIED in the description. also so much for the heat treatment of that pin. look how blue you got it.
Very good news, I'll will do that with mine
You've brought up something I've been curious about. The planetary gear is the only thing I've ever broke. It was the center diff, I got the red aluminum diff case and haven't broke one since. But, have you ever experimented with say putting a Mugan planetary gear, or an X-Ray pin, or an entire Tekno rear diff into your Kraton? Wouldn't it be cool to find some super strong gears from another brand that slide right in!? (my Talion V1)
Regarding all of the internal gears inside of the differential. I’ve never found a third-party company that made any of those. I’ve seen GPM make ring gears, and I’ve seen them make the spiral input gears. But I’ve never found a brand that actually made a planetary gear or the actual spider, gears, etc. your saying techno makes some? Can you send me a link? Also I’ve never heard of x-ray pins.
@@EastTactics Hi there, East Tactics. I was only using those companies as an example. If you watch someone break down a diff from a different company, a lot of them look very similar. I thought it would be cool if another brands gears happen to fit into Arrma diffs.
Ya it would be nice. 🤔
Excellent info bro.
I just sent you a message on messenger,I’m wondering if these are better than stock and my best option.lately I’ve been liking to fly upside down for as long as possible wich needs a lot of throttle close to landing to actually land it.basically I end up landing with a real high wheel speed and breaking pins,I’m not landing on throttle but it snaps pins doing so.any input would be appreciated brother👊🏻😎
Just now got around to ordering some, one thing I hate doing is having to keep rebuilding diffs due to broken pins
For sure mate, help a lot.
what size motor you running? Also what size pinion are you rolling with?
@@EastTactics Hobbywing max6/1650kv combo with 46t spur/16t pinion
Ok cool. These pins will help👍👍
Must have
6:43 shorter pin actually increases the pins durability as the leverage is decreased😎
Good point!!
This is a must have.. I have an outcast 6s and all I break are sungears because of these danty little pins... It completely ruins the experience
Another great bench vid/custom diff tip no doubt. Curious what 2 of those would cost approx? I live in New Jersey and would look for myself right now but getting ready for work unfortunately...
Hey brother how are these holding up so far couldnt find a follow up video
I’ve never broken one of these custom pins. Not a one.
Even for the short time I kept the same gearing.
I did learn how we that the main cause for whi I was breaking the stock pins, aside from the fact that they are weak, was because I was rocking to high of a pinion gear for the stock setup (20T)
I’ve dropped to a 16t for a long time, and even more recently (due to cogging w/the 16t) dropped back to the stock 12t.
So there is a direct correlation to high tooth pinions and braking these pins.
That all said I did rock the 20t pinion with these new pins for a bit, and they held up. It was the planetary gear that became the weak point.
Let it also be noted that M2C outdrive cups have slightly Smaller holes (on purpose) to clean up slop, and prevent breakages to both pin and gear.
Watch this vid for the deets
th-cam.com/video/6CUhUtJpR7c/w-d-xo.html
Bash on brother!!! 😎👍
Thank you bro
Thanks again this is also 1 of my issues
Erock412 SB, anytime brother!
Hey, great vids I'm having the same problem and just ordered some hardened drill blanks to do this mod, could you let me know if doing this helped as I've tried everything else, I do have quite a big motor a 1650kv on my kraton with a mojave chassis so could be down to that rich duperbash said to make sure you are off throttle when jumping as that can brake them too, be great if you could get back to me, take care gaz😉👍
Hey Gav, sorry for the late response, it seems like some comments dont land in my feed, or I just somehow overlooked this. I apologize. I would definitely say that these hardened still pin have help. I haven't broken one yet... and its been well over a month since I installed them. I must point out though, that I dropped back down to a 16T pinion and dropped my punch to 6 at the same time... still, these pins have NO slop and are tough as all get out. So ya I really recommend. how have things been since you posted this comment 2 weeks ago?
@@EastTactics hi thanks for your reply, haven't broken any lately so fingers crossed and I did turn down my punch too, keep up the good work always enjoyed your vids take care gaz 😉
Hi I measured the Kraton original diff pins with an outside micrometre and the are 2.25mm so I think the ones that you had purchased are a bit thicker if the original are the same like mine, my kraton is V4 2020 I don't know if maybe they changed them but I have the same problem with the front and rear diffs
Joseph Caruana, interesting, I too have the v4 Although I think I snagged mine in 2019. Either way the three different sizes that I ordered from McMaster.com we’re definitely a much better fit and got rid of that slop. My question to you is regardless of what your micrometer Reading was, are you experiencing the loose slop with the stock pins? You won’t be disappointed with picking up those upgraded pins from McMaster, I have yet to break one. I will say however the biggest contributing factor to why I was busting pins in the first place was simply because I had to high a tooth pinion gear and my punch setting cranked all the way to nine. After dropping back down to a 16 t pinion gear life has been grand. It is really nice to know though that I’ve got tank quality pins in my differentials.
@@EastTactics hi yes it is a good idea but at the moment we are not receiving any mail from US due to the pandemic but as soon as we get to normal I will order some spare for the time being I was going to try and change my centre diff oil because I have 500,000 CST in it and I am using a 14t pinion because I fitted everything on a Mojave chassis
@@josephcaruana9165 u can order drill blanks in the uk that's what I did I ordered some 2.2mm and haven't broken anything since, just Google drill blanks uk and u will find them, hopefully that helps take care gaz 👍
@@gaviscon4304 Thanks, but 2.2mm are smaller, the 2.25 are already loose so I think they have to be a bit bigger. First time I service my diffs I will check the proper size.
@@josephcaruana9165 I ordered 2.25mm to and they were too tight 2.2mm were about right remember things get hot and expand so u don't want them to tight but haven't had any problems, just finished building a kraton 6s with a mojave chassis and a 1650kv motor and with that motor still haven't broken them cheers gaz
I must be lucky as my stock ones have very little movement, I’ve ordered some 2.25mm drill bits for the future 👍🏻
Oxford RC, Nice, curious how recent of a purchase are your current pins? I wonder if Arma actually did a re-spec. Maybe they now send out pins that are actually closer to 2.25 mm. They upgrade everything else LOL
East Tactics I brought the car 2/3 months ago, so maybe they have upgraded them 🤔
I bought a bag of pins recently and they are exactly like the ones in the video: under spec on diameter. Its possible they are old stock.
Ya, That’s what I was thinking too, A line of old out of spec diff pins exist out there.
Are the M2C 9130 1/8 SCALE DROOP SCREWS is a complete set? How many do i need? (Mojave)... thx..
Yes, it comes with 4, and 4 is all you need.
Install instructions say: (edited by me to make more sense 😝)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING DROOP SCREWS:
Since there is no hex on the bottom side of these upgraded droop screws, you will then insert your 2 mm driver thru the top of the arm and down thru the droop screw hole.
Then put the droop screw on the end of the 2 mm driver and push the droop screw up thru (up from the bottom) of the arm turning counter clockwise while applying pressure with your thumb and thread the screw backwards into the hole.
It is advised that you use blue locktight to offer some resistance since this screw is going into an existing threaded hole.
When installing droop screw into new arms,keep constant pressure on screw as it is cutting threads when it goes in.
Hope that is helpful.
If you have any other questions let me know. 👊💪😎
Very good technique thanks👌🔥😎👍🏼🍀🇫🇷
Arrma 10 - Anytime my friend
I can't get any of the current links to work. Is it possible for you to post new links, thanks.
Looking into it now
Which links specifically?
@@EastTactics Thanks so much, specifically the pins :)
When I click on this, the link takes me straight to it, is this link not working for you?
www.mcmaster.com/2900A239
@@EastTactics omg, was stupidity on my part ad blocker, never the less thank you for the reply and help.
Anytime 🤜🤛
Link I can't get site to work
Strange… I clicked on the link and it works fine for me
Can you put a link to the product in the description?
ValeninRC
Added to description as well… Thanks
www.mcmaster.com/2900A239
Do you think it's possible to use an angle grinder to cut it? I don't have a dremel
EL Valenin, worth a shot, might even be better than a Dremel. The number one thing you really need to make sure you take measures on, at least for the Dremel, is its potential to fly off the second you get to the end side of the metal. I actually cut a milk carton in half and positioned it in a way that It provided a sort of 360° catchall for a when the sucker goes flying off, if it goes flying off. Also it’s super hot.
@@EastTactics okay, I'll do that for sure. Thank you!!
Im planning getting the exb but honestly the rear diff is complete trash even shimmed the diff sun gear gets chiped so im planing getting a v4 diff and shim it and do your modifications i just want a reliable diff
I hear ya... Plus if you asked me I would rather get the V4 and do the third market upgrades myself. Simply because even the EXB chassis, as well as the shock towers, simply just don’t compare to the quality of M2Cracing products
@@EastTactics to me the v4 was the same price to the exb+electronics the exb has more stuff going for it than the v4 that you have to ditch the radio servo and other stuff day 1
Surchaufeur, agreed… You definitely have to ditch that spectrum radio immediately. And you’re right, the stock Servo is not that great, however if you shim the servo savor it helps a ton!
Still having the ability to choose what motor and ESC you want as well as the servo etc. and a controller and receiver is nice with the EXB.
The EXB is a beast! Love the black too!
Funny. Most of my problems are on the front diff. My problems also started when a put in a bigger pinion. Tried shimming it, and nothing. Always break the pin and planetary on the front diff
That is interesting, guess the weak point goes one way or the other... tell me some details about what you're running in the front diff. What diff fluids are you running? Also what tooth pinion have installed. Are your tires stock. What punch setting you on?
I would suggest running 20k rear, 200-500k Center, and 80k Front
For the stock Kraton motor and ESC, I wouldn't go past 16 tooth.
I also have my punch setting set to 6, instead of nine.
I run those Hardened Diff pins in both front and rear now too.
I haven't broken a pin or planetary gear since.
Have you since resolved this issue. IF so, What did you change?
Bash on brother
@@EastTactics I have a notorious, not a kraton. I'm running 100k front and back, and 300k center. Running stock tyres, and a 14t pinion. It's a notorious, so punch is on level 9. But punch level should affect more the back diff. I only broke 1 time the back planetary. Already 4 times in front. I'll try to find those rods, and give it a try. But it's funny, it only started to break planetaries after I swapped the 12t for the 14t
@@nelsonmarques1334 for me that happens if you land a jump full throttle on just one of the front wheels
@@ELValenin it's not the case. It's fatigue. Last one broke on flat dirt. Last time I used 3 shims and it's still running strong. Ordered aluminium diff cases to see if it help
Nelson Marques I also have a noto and had this problem , I found that running 100k front but 50k in the rear pulled some pressure off the front . Also 300k centre
How did it work?? The pins you
Did the pins break again??
Fantastic only pins I use. I literally haven’t broken a pin since and it’s been well over a year.
Strength aside, one of my biggest reasons I love these pins Is the slop they get rid of. Just an FYI… M2C’s outdrive cups Also help to get rid of slop when you’re using the stock pins Because they manufactured the whole slightly smaller.
Lol come to find out macaster carr is only 35 mins from me so shipping shouldn't be much I hope
Lol just ask if you can come there and get your stuff 😅
do you end up picking your up then. thats convenient. One thing I noticed that was a bit frustrating with my experience, with McMaster-Carr was they're elusiveness for shipping costs. I ordered twice from them, each order had 2 pc. They shipped all four pc's separate, and charged me for shipping on each one. I called in very irritated and they refunded me half my shipping costs.
So... i'll be mentioning in the description next to the link for others to see, that if they order multiple items (sizes, etc) they should leave a comment in the shipping instructions to ship all items together.
How long did it take to get the material? Was shipping reasonable?
Quite reasonable and dependable. 2 to 4 day arrivals (for me). I’ve been very impressed
@@EastTactics I ordered a few sticks but it didn't say how much shipping was going to be. I guess I will find out when it ships. What part of the country are you in? I am in Washington state.
No Budget RC, Yeah, I find that odd that it didn’t show the shipping to me either. I was charged seven dollars for shipping, I live in Utah.
Update
Turns out I was charged 7 dollars for shipping, per box they sent me, and they split my order into 4 shipments!
As we were discussing, one thing I noticed that was a bit frustrating with my experience, with McMaster-Carr was they're elusiveness for shipping costs. I ordered twice from them, each order had 2 pcs. (so I expected to pay shipping twice only)
They shipped all four pc's separate even though some came from the same location, stating that they do not ship metal rods together because they could damage each other (which is joke). So, they charged me for shipping on each one.
I called in very irritated, and they refunded me half my shipping costs.
So... i'll be mentioning in the description next to the link for others to see, that if they order multiple items (sizes, etc) then you need to leave a comment in the "shipping instructions" that says to ship all items together.
let me know if you run into this issue. Did you order multiple of the same size rod... they better ship them together. If they don't... let me know, and call and complain and get refunded.
their products are awesome quality... but this shipping shenanigans is annoying.
@@EastTactics I ordered 3 of the 2.25mm rods and got an email saying they charged me $9 for shipping. I hope that is for all 3.