@@DesertTechUT That's a very cool / interesting suppressor. How feasible is a pin-and-weld with the MDRx? It seems like the gas system is well back on the MDRx, so a twelve-three pin-and-weld or something slightly longer with this suppressor would leave enough space to prevent it from contacting the gas block, but is it liable to cycle with subsonic 300 AAC?
Would you recommend the side eject for 5.56/223 over the forward eject? Going to be making a purchase soon and I want to know if there are any reasons to go with one over the other. Feel like there had to be a reason y'all made the side eject since you know, ya did 😏
I can't find any manufacturing specs on MDRX barrels? I heard they were Nitride treated? Are they button cut rifling? Hammer forged?.... any information would be greatly appreciated.
@@lesliewilson2122 Yes, the barrels are interchangeable, the differences in the MDR and MDRX chassis are detailed in our new products video. th-cam.com/video/solSsoEHCKM/w-d-xo.html
I noticed the MDRX with SE is only available in .556/223. If I were to buy this rifle in .300 blackout, would this caliber purchased as the FE model (only option available for 300Blackout) work with your SE conversion kit? I would like to know if this causes any issues with the firearm (possibly why it is not offered this way?) Also, could we see an option like this in the future for more calibers from the factory?
I wrote this on another video too, but I was wondering: Have you looked into giving the forward ejection covers some form of hinge like a regular dust cover? Clearing a malfunction during a match or in a fluid combat situation - especially if it's dark - looks challenging and time consuming unless you take the plate off (which may require a tool/bullet/case), and if you do, you risk losing the part. Is this something that would be possible?
Clearing a jam usually consists of dropping the mag, racking it hard a time or two so the casing/cartridge drops out of the magwell, then reinsert, charge and shoot. If a jam happens in the forward ejection chute, you can remove it very quickly by pushing the small removal tab on the chute forward and flipping the panel off the rifle (takes some strong fingers though, if you use a spent casing it pops right off). Once removed, the rifle will side eject (quite violently) out of the panel area. If you are familiar with the rifle, you can remove the panel in the dark no problem. You don't need any tools to remove the forward ejection chute. The side eject model does take a torx tool to remove the side panels and change them to left/right eject.
Desert Tech needs to make ES Tactical a partner so that they keep making these barrels. Even a Proof Research partnership would be amazing for carbon fiber, lightweight goodness.
@@DesertTechUT on The older version of the rifle, The 556 conversations only had one magazine release by the firing hand while the 308 versions had 2 magazine releases, Does the new 556 Models have both magazine releases in the front and rear? 😸
@@DefZen343 Not sure who told you that, every MDR ever produced has both front and rear mag releases, there are no differences between 308/556, it is the exact same chassis.
@@DesertTechUT a few TH-camrs who reviewed it showed that the rear mag release did not function after switching to the 556 conversion kit, The 308 ones did function, i hope the rear release works on the one i ordered 👀
@@DefZen343 I haven't heard that, do you have a link? All of our rifles have the same features, and we stand behind them with a lifetime warranty, so should they have an issue, we will fix it.
I believe it was Gordy Gritters (the leading precision rifle builder) who said that button rifled and hammer forged barrels should be counterbored about 1" at the muzzle to improve accuracy. Threading a muzzle at least with the American industry standard threads that a fairly skinny are likely to reduce the precision of your barrel. Tony Kidd (the best 10/22´s) has made a similar finding. He´s website says threaded barrels wont be as accurate as unthreaded. He doesn´t make the counterbore. I don´t know what Anschutz (olympic .22lr´s) says but it´s my understanding that they counterbore threaded barrels. Desert Tech should counterbore the precision oriented MDR barrels in order to improve their precision.
Do they have a 16 inch barrel for the 6.5 creedmoor. I want to add a suppressor for on it but i feel like it will be too long if i add a suppressor on the 20 inch version
Actually it is normal in an mdr. When the bolt moves forward it pushes the spent casing out the forward ejection shoot. Since it was the last round the bolt was locked back and open. If he had hit the bolt release the last round would eject. I once saw a video on the ejection, and that's how I figured it out haha
I've noticed in several videos, the front facing ejection port is to launch brass at the shooters thumb (making contact quite a bit) Would the Strike Industries Megafin featureless grip help with this? They have a thumb rest. So your thumb presses down on that rest pad instead of sticking straight up on a standard featureless fin. Otherwise I would opt for a side ejection if it's going to be shooting brass at my thumb most of the time. Too distracting.. Any thoughts or solutions?
Looks good, If I try it out and I like it I'll happily switch out for my AR.
Beautiful rifle
GREAT!
Selective fire next!
th-cam.com/video/OaWjD_le-Iw/w-d-xo.html
01:09 What's the suppressor / muzzle device combo you're using for the .300 AAC version?
That was an Amtac reflex suppressor
@@DesertTechUT That's a very cool / interesting suppressor. How feasible is a pin-and-weld with the MDRx? It seems like the gas system is well back on the MDRx, so a twelve-three pin-and-weld or something slightly longer with this suppressor would leave enough space to prevent it from contacting the gas block, but is it liable to cycle with subsonic 300 AAC?
Can you adjust the gas setting of the rifle without removing the handguard, via that little window?
yes
And I just got the old one on Christmas
Old ones are good too, that's what I shoot :)
Would you recommend the side eject for 5.56/223 over the forward eject? Going to be making a purchase soon and I want to know if there are any reasons to go with one over the other. Feel like there had to be a reason y'all made the side eject since you know, ya did 😏
Its all about preference really
What was the reason for the 1:6 twist for the MDRx vs the 1:7 for the Wlvrn in 300 black?
I can't find any manufacturing specs on MDRX barrels? I heard they were Nitride treated? Are they button cut rifling? Hammer forged?.... any information would be greatly appreciated.
Button rifled, nitrided.
Is the mdrx chassis the same as the regular mdr chassis?
no
@@DesertTechUT Thank you. Is there a video which details the differences? Are the barrels interchangeable?
@@lesliewilson2122 Yes, the barrels are interchangeable, the differences in the MDR and MDRX chassis are detailed in our new products video.
th-cam.com/video/solSsoEHCKM/w-d-xo.html
No discussing on the weight reduction and increased reliability of the MDRX side ejection model???
The side eject and forward eject rifles are both very reliable, the weight reduction is basically the weight of the FE panel and ejection chute.
@@DesertTechUT Hmm, that's odd. I read somewhere that the SE version will be a bit above 7lbs.
I noticed the MDRX with SE is only available in .556/223. If I were to buy this rifle in .300 blackout, would this caliber purchased as the FE model (only option available for 300Blackout) work with your SE conversion kit?
I would like to know if this causes any issues with the firearm (possibly why it is not offered this way?) Also, could we see an option like this in the future for more calibers from the factory?
I wrote this on another video too, but I was wondering:
Have you looked into giving the forward ejection covers some form of hinge like a regular dust cover? Clearing a malfunction during a match or in a fluid combat situation - especially if it's dark - looks challenging and time consuming unless you take the plate off (which may require a tool/bullet/case), and if you do, you risk losing the part. Is this something that would be possible?
Clearing a jam usually consists of dropping the mag, racking it hard a time or two so the casing/cartridge drops out of the magwell, then reinsert, charge and shoot. If a jam happens in the forward ejection chute, you can remove it very quickly by pushing the small removal tab on the chute forward and flipping the panel off the rifle (takes some strong fingers though, if you use a spent casing it pops right off). Once removed, the rifle will side eject (quite violently) out of the panel area. If you are familiar with the rifle, you can remove the panel in the dark no problem. You don't need any tools to remove the forward ejection chute. The side eject model does take a torx tool to remove the side panels and change them to left/right eject.
Desert Tech needs to make ES Tactical a partner so that they keep making these barrels. Even a Proof Research partnership would be amazing for carbon fiber, lightweight goodness.
Does the side eject model have a mag release at the back also? or only the AR style mag release button by the shooters hand? 🤔😸
The SE has all the exact same control features as the FE, it just ejects out the side.
@@DesertTechUT on The older version of the rifle, The 556 conversations only had one magazine release by the firing hand while the 308 versions had 2 magazine releases, Does the new 556 Models have both magazine releases in the front and rear? 😸
@@DefZen343 Not sure who told you that, every MDR ever produced has both front and rear mag releases, there are no differences between 308/556, it is the exact same chassis.
@@DesertTechUT a few TH-camrs who reviewed it showed that the rear mag release did not function after switching to the 556 conversion kit, The 308 ones did function, i hope the rear release works on the one i ordered 👀
@@DefZen343 I haven't heard that, do you have a link? All of our rifles have the same features, and we stand behind them with a lifetime warranty, so should they have an issue, we will fix it.
I believe it was Gordy Gritters (the leading precision rifle builder) who said that button rifled and hammer forged barrels should be counterbored about 1" at the muzzle to improve accuracy. Threading a muzzle at least with the American industry standard threads that a fairly skinny are likely to reduce the precision of your barrel.
Tony Kidd (the best 10/22´s) has made a similar finding. He´s website says threaded barrels wont be as accurate as unthreaded. He doesn´t make the counterbore. I don´t know what Anschutz (olympic .22lr´s) says but it´s my understanding that they counterbore threaded barrels.
Desert Tech should counterbore the precision oriented MDR barrels in order to improve their precision.
Do they have a 16 inch barrel for the 6.5 creedmoor. I want to add a suppressor for on it but i feel like it will be too long if i add a suppressor on the 20 inch version
is the side eject conversion kit usable with a 1st gen MDR, or does it need to be an MDRx?
You can use it on the original MDR but it's not just the $150 side panels as one might think, you also need a Side Eject Barrel assembly
What bipod are you using?
Komplete Vision Entertainment just a Harris.
You coming to canada?
We are in Canada, unfortunately its up to them to let the MDR in.
@@DesertTechUT What's the progress on that? a 20-inch model looks really nice for a non-restricted sporting rifle.
What ever the next caliber the US military picks up (most likely 277 Sig Fury if they do move) I would love to see a kit for that.
Do you know if it will run steel in 308? This is a rifle that I would wanna magdump
We do not recommend steel cased ammo
@@DesertTechUT thank you for the confirmation, sad to hear it
2 weeks past from when I was told my rifle would ship still nothing
MDRX's have left the building
At 38 seconds into the video, the gun was fired and no case was ejected... I’m assuming that’s not normal (with any modern firearm).
Actually it is normal in an mdr. When the bolt moves forward it pushes the spent casing out the forward ejection shoot. Since it was the last round the bolt was locked back and open. If he had hit the bolt release the last round would eject. I once saw a video on the ejection, and that's how I figured it out haha
th-cam.com/video/JEGoTZfCj2o/w-d-xo.html
Cole Sandifer got it. Thanks,
I've noticed in several videos, the front facing ejection port is to launch brass at the shooters thumb (making contact quite a bit)
Would the Strike Industries Megafin featureless grip help with this? They have a thumb rest. So your thumb presses down on that rest pad instead of sticking straight up on a standard featureless fin.
Otherwise I would opt for a side ejection if it's going to be shooting brass at my thumb most of the time. Too distracting..
Any thoughts or solutions?
The MDR is a beautiful rifle but the California compliant version just looks gross and sad
Mark Dahlia perfectly fitting for Kommifornia
Were are sorry, just think how the Californian's must feel