I removed the Oil Return Line by forcing it over the exhaust to remove it together with the Clutch Cover. I replaced the water pump shaft as it was worn out by the seals (deep grooves) I put everything back but without the metal oil return pipe. I've tried all the possibilities to fit it without removing the clutch cover again but without success. I then went to a Hydraulic Shop. I asked them to cut the pipe, silver solder a fitting on that's the same as on the top of the metal pipe that holds the short rubber pipe, then I asked them to crimp a metal Sleeve/Farrel (permanent instead of removable clamp) over the new Rubber pipe on their hydraulic press. Works like a charm, best modification I've done to the Rotax engine. Greetings from Pretoria, South Africa.
thank you , I have a 2003 f650gs , that sat in storage for 10 years , only had 14 k on the odometer , the guy I bought it from had bought it from a auction house a year back , did some work then suffered a accident , he shattered his ankel , which means he isn't going to be riding a motorbike for long long time if ever , so I bought it and found that when cold it would shift fine as soon as it would warm up it wouldn't shift and had clutch creep when the clutch engaged , so off with the clutch cover , I watched more then a few videos on dealing with that oil return line , so when I did that job I had watched the various videos so many times when it came to that pipe I released that the computer , could easily be removed , slide the tang/lever for the connection pull off the large connection , either there is a strap or bracket in my case a strap , which is extremely easy to remove the fuel injection computer just lifts out and one has clear sight to that Torx head screw that holds that oil return line to the block , I used a long 1/4 inch extension [ 9-10 inches with appropriate Torx head 1/4 inch socket bit , and I put a drop of blue loctite [ not red ] then let that go through the 3 hoses that kind of get in the way and its easy to get that Torx head to the bolt and into the Torx bolt and I just let it sit for 20 minutes as I had other parts to remove , then unscrewed that bolt and pulled it out with out losing that bolt and then having to fish it out with a magnet , and I left it attached to the Torx bit so when it was time to put it back on , its simple to get it in to the hole and tighten and since its blue locktite , its just a little bit of rocking that extension and the blue loctite breaks the bond with that bolt , it took the stress out of doing that part of the job as its really not that big of a deal to wiggle that clutch cover in a way to get off or on with that oil line lose , it works well for me as ive had to take that clutch cover off a couple of times now , some one replaced the clutch but didn't inspect the clutch basket and drum as I found the 3rd and forth steel plates were sticking I had to cut them out , and found that there was damage to the splines of the drum , so when it was cold the plates would slide well enough but as soon as it got hot well the damaged splines would catch the steel plates causing the creeping and the bad shifting , found a used clutch assembly , took 2 weeks to get , and god bless the dismantler , it came with the plates and friction plates , 16 pieces , ive learned my lesson , I got a digital caliper and measured the clutch stack , there is a lot of kits that one can get that are not correct , as before I took that clutch apart I ordered a set of EBC , and I filed down the offending drum splines and the basket fingers , and it was slip city , tore it apart again thinking maybe id used the wrong oil , and I double checked , oil was rated for wet clutch , so my bad for assuming that that kit would be just right , I went and bought a digital caliper , [ its nice and easy to read steel and its easy gotten off amazon for less then 40 dollars , and yep the clutch stack is below the minimum specs , the ones that came on the pre owned assembly were almost new and measured at 142 mm , the minimum is 135mm and that new set I bought well its below 132mm , so I am 3 times pulling that clutch cover , 😎
hello I am contacting from Mongolia. Please help me find these replacements. why change these. Please answer these questions, what is the reason why my motorcycle's water heats up so quickly and the cooling fan is running all the time? thank you
I removed the Oil Return Line by forcing it over the exhaust to remove it together with the Clutch Cover. I replaced the water pump shaft as it was worn out by the seals (deep grooves) I put everything back but without the metal oil return pipe. I've tried all the possibilities to fit it without removing the clutch cover again but without success. I then went to a Hydraulic Shop. I asked them to cut the pipe, silver solder a fitting on that's the same as on the top of the metal pipe that holds the short rubber pipe, then I asked them to crimp a metal Sleeve/Farrel (permanent instead of removable clamp) over the new Rubber pipe on their hydraulic press. Works like a charm, best modification I've done to the Rotax engine.
Greetings from Pretoria, South Africa.
thank you ,
I have a 2003 f650gs , that sat in storage for 10 years , only had 14 k on the odometer , the guy I bought it from had bought it from a auction house a year back , did some work then suffered a accident , he shattered his ankel , which means he isn't going to be riding a motorbike for long long time if ever , so I bought it and found that when cold it would shift fine as soon as it would warm up it wouldn't shift and had clutch creep when the clutch engaged , so off with the clutch cover , I watched more then a few videos on dealing with that oil return line , so when I did that job I had watched the various videos so many times when it came to that pipe I released that the computer , could easily be removed , slide the tang/lever for the connection pull off the large connection , either there is a strap or bracket in my case a strap , which is extremely easy to remove the fuel injection computer just lifts out and one has clear sight to that Torx head screw that holds that oil return line to the block , I used a long 1/4 inch extension [ 9-10 inches with appropriate Torx head 1/4 inch socket bit , and I put a drop of blue loctite [ not red ] then let that go through the 3 hoses that kind of get in the way and its easy to get that Torx head to the bolt and into the Torx bolt and I just let it sit for 20 minutes as I had other parts to remove , then unscrewed that bolt and pulled it out with out losing that bolt and then having to fish it out with a magnet , and I left it attached to the Torx bit so when it was time to put it back on , its simple to get it in to the hole and tighten and since its blue locktite , its just a little bit of rocking that extension and the blue loctite breaks the bond with that bolt , it took the stress out of doing that part of the job as its really not that big of a deal to wiggle that clutch cover in a way to get off or on with that oil line lose , it works well for me as ive had to take that clutch cover off a couple of times now , some one replaced the clutch but didn't inspect the clutch basket and drum as I found the 3rd and forth steel plates were sticking I had to cut them out , and found that there was damage to the splines of the drum , so when it was cold the plates would slide well enough but as soon as it got hot well the damaged splines would catch the steel plates causing the creeping and the bad shifting , found a used clutch assembly , took 2 weeks to get , and god bless the dismantler , it came with the plates and friction plates , 16 pieces , ive learned my lesson , I got a digital caliper and measured the clutch stack , there is a lot of kits that one can get that are not correct , as before I took that clutch apart I ordered a set of EBC , and I filed down the offending drum splines and the basket fingers ,
and it was slip city , tore it apart again thinking maybe id used the wrong oil , and I double checked , oil was rated for wet clutch , so my bad for assuming that that kit would be just right , I went and bought a digital caliper , [ its nice and easy to read steel and its easy gotten off amazon for less then 40 dollars , and yep the clutch stack is below the minimum specs , the ones that came on the pre owned assembly were almost new and measured at 142 mm , the minimum is 135mm and that new set I bought well its below 132mm , so I am 3 times pulling that clutch cover , 😎
hello I am contacting from Mongolia. Please help me find these replacements. why change these. Please answer these questions, what is the reason why my motorcycle's water heats up so quickly and the cooling fan is running all the time? thank you