Since the shaft is vulnerable to corrosion, and it’s a very simple part, seems like a fabrication of a stainless replacement would be a viable option. Very useful information. Thank you for sharing your work.
Yes, actually that what i did, talked with a good local turner, and made me a exact copy of the original shaft made of stainless steel. Ill replace the one the i have with it, and lets see how long will last. Still, if we dont do something about the weep hole, sooner or later it will get worn out by the mixture of dusty soil, water and grease. Im uploading in the next days a specific video about the water pump failure, causes and how to prevent the shaft/seals wear problem made by all the dirt that goes thru the weep hole, witch i believe its where all the problem begin. Im glad you found the info the a shared useful :). Thank you ! And go for the stainless shaft
@@ridingluna That’s very interesting. Thank you for sharing your findings on this issue. I was wondering what caused this problem. I hope your solution works. Have you posted it on any F650 forums? Will be looking for your next video. Ride safe.
@@G58 Thank you, keep in mind that this is very noticiable if you ride most of the time off road, im sure people riding on pavement wont have this kind of problem as often. I been in the F65o forums, but dont ask my why i use the Dakar Thread on the ADVRider page :). Ride safe as well :)
@@ridingluna Cool. Even though I will be riding in the UK not the Baja desert, it’s still very good to be aware of any weaknesses in any system. Will check out the Dakar Thread on the ADVRider page.
Thank you VERY much. Clear instructions and great close-up filming. Prepping my 2005 650 Dakar for a European trip. Everyone points out potential water pump shaft and or sesl problems. I like your 'get home' emergency repair option. I feel up to doing that along the way ( not so sure re the whole clutch cover replace shaft option) so I will take spare seals with me. BTW: I am lucky. Just found a used 650 Twin Spark engine firm 2005 with 3200 miles on it when my main drive shaft bearing went at 52k miles. So engine now has only 5k miles on it. But seals are still 2005 vintage so could degrade. After this EXCELLENT video from you I am no longer concerned. Thank you.😊
Thank you James ! Its always good to know that the video was helpful for others :) Yes, the WP its a known potential issue, and its good to have some spears parts if you are doing a long trip. The good thing is, in case the seals or shaft start to wear out, and start some leaking, you will still be able to keep on going, just watch your water levels. And eaven if you only have seals and not the shaft, repleacing them, will also give you more km to keep on riding ….. This bike its still a very reliable, have fun on your trip and thanks for your msg !! 😊
that is one of the best how-to videos I have ever seen posted. I'm looking at buying one of these bikes in a CS version and I saw that little hole on the bottom where it is leaking on this particular bike The seller said exactly what you said that it's a slight water leak from coolant and now I see exactly where it's coming from when you stop the toothpick in that hole. so I can buy the bike really inexpensively and now that I know it's not going to cost very much to fix and probably take about an hour. thank you
Thank you ! Yes, its not a problem to fix it, keep in mind that may be a seal or the shaft. If its the shaft, its a different job, still easy to do. There is a video a just up about how to do it. The water pump parts/kit its not expensive. Arround 70 Us. Just make sure the bike never overheat ….. If you get a good price and thays the only problem, go for it. ;)
Felicidades Esteban . Cómo siempre gran video😮. Sabes que aceite para el motor sería unos de los mejores para esta moto?. Por otro lado escuché no sé dónde, que a esta moto se le puede añadir un líquido refrigerante para q no se caliente tanto, o en el caso cual sería tú recomendación. Gracias y saludos.🎉
Hola Javier ! Gracias, en lo personal uso un aceite semi sintetico, Castrol Actevo, mismo asi, estos motores tienen buena tolerancia, lo que es muy importante a tener en cuenta a la hora de elejir, es que cumpla con el standar de JASO MA, ya que el aceite tambien es usado para lubricacion de clutch. Tambien e usado el Mobil Multigrado, sin problemas. En cuanto al liquido refrigerante, tienes que usar como bien dices, uno para altas temperaturas, generalmente se diferencia por los colores que tiene, y tambien obiamente la informacion en su etiqueta. Aqui uso uno de Mobil, que es de color rosa para altas temperaturas de tolerancia,. su otra version por ejemplo, es de color verde. Te mando un saludo !!
HOla!! muy buena la info que pones!!! una buena idea para salir del paso y que te deje volver si te da este problema en el camino. consulta!?!?!?! tendras las medidas de los retenes para poner????
Can't seem to get the cotter pin out to remove the impeller head ... At 4:33, you were able to just tap yours out, but mine is well jammed in there! Can't get it out!!! Any advice?
Hi Kid, yes, somtimes can be a bit difficult to take it out. Use some WD-40, let it sit for a few min, and keep on trying, be gentle do …. and make sure you are hitting just the lip of it …. sooner or later will come out ;) Be patient.
Wd40 beat it and finally drilled it with a masonry bit till felt it move and tapped it the rest of the way out. Hoping I didn't have to pull the whole clutch plate.
Impeller is plastic. So are the gears behind (which are identical twins) the clutch cover. This pair of twin gears drives shaft/impeller, and it's not a bad idea to replace them, too. Ask me how I know.
Hi TItro, in this case, as i just did a temporary fix, replacing just the seals, i use the one i had in hand. The seals used on the bmw water pump kit are a single lip one, and black. Users advice to use the double lip once FKM. The important thing to take notice also is the heat resistance/tolerance of the seal. Seal compound and choice its a all discussion by itself !
@@ridingluna Thanks for the quick response Riding Luna. I´m totally agreed about replacing the old Single lip Nitrile (NBR) with the better compond Viton (FKM) seals, Operating temperature rated min.-20 °C / max.200 °C. BTW this is the SKF part Number 10X26X7 HMSA10 V (Just in case 😉). Regards.
Hi Diart, BMW only sales the whater pump as a kit, not by parts …. You will need an aftermarket seals, the size that you need for this seals is this one 10x26x7 mm two of them. I get them from Ebay, and this is the one i get “ EAI 10x26x7mm FPM/FKM Oil Shaft Rotary Seal w/ Stainless Steel Spring Dbl Lip “ Hope this helps.
Hello!! Immediately when I opened the shaft wheel was broken ( the black plastic thing) , the seals are ok, Im very new at this so, is it normal that the shaft doesn't rotate?
@@sofiavilla8716 Hi Sofia, the black plastic thing, its the propeller, easy to replace, just remove the pin that holds it to the shaft carefully with a small screwdriver. And no, its not normal that the shaft wont rotate. That means one of the small gears inside may be worn out/broken or the pin that hold it to the shaf is gone. You will need to remove the cover to inspect and if thats the case. Replace them. Usually all those parts are included on the water pump kit. ( make sure of that ). Hope that helps. Saludos !
@@evev7158 45.000 K in my case. Some others get less, and others more. So its very variable. In my case i always had a wear shaft. So i replace both, shaft amd seals that came with the kit. I do carry with my on long trips, some spears seals, just in case … i got them via ebay US.
Hi, just the coolant, when open the water pump cover. You will need to drop the oil to change the water pump shaft. Removing the side engine cover ( clutch ).
Hi, i´m lokking your viedeos and I say ,You know much about this motorcycle. I´m sorry , but in a procces to buy a mod 95, I would like to make some questions, I hope not bother you. where do you find these parts? are they easy to find them ? best regards from Colombia.
Hola Dem, no es ninguna molestia, todo lo contrario, me gusta ayudar. Si es del '95 la moto que quieres, no es el mismo modelo de la mia. No se que tan popular fue ese modelo. Las f650gs fueron muy aceptadas y se fabricaron muchisimas, por lo cual, es facil encontrar partes, ya sean nuevas o usadas. Al estar cerca de USA, busco y encuentro todas las partes alli. Ya sea por ebay, o en una tienda donde tienen todas partes, tambien del modelo que mencionas, www.euromotoelectrics.com/ Mercado Libre tambien encuentras y por grupos que estan armados en facebook de este modelo, donde en general desarman motos y venden las partes. Si tu duda es comprar o no la moto, por las partes. Mi opinion es, no tendras problema en encontrarlas, en la web encuentras todo. Saludos cordiales !!
Unfortunately, the wear is not only on the seals but also on the shaft exactly where it touches the seal lips. Moreover, silly plastic gear that rotates the shaft has short life.... Hope your bike runs OK ! Safe ride!
@@ridingluna my bike has been overheating, checked head, water pump, radiator, fan, everything is fine. But lately I hear engine knock coming from the connecting rod. Checked and the bearing is not good, will try to get another crankshaft but I'm worried it will still overheat. Or do you think a bad crank bearing can cause overheating?
Personally i never heard about a bad crankshaft related with a overheating problem. You still have other reasons for OH problems, like a bad thermostat. Still, you can post this queston on the advriders under Dakar thread, they have lots of experience and are very helpfull people there. Also here faq.f650.com/FAQs/Overheating_FAQ.htm Hope that helps !
Hi, my bike started leaking from that hole and after a while it compleately empties the thank. I refilled the water but afrer i ride for 5 min or so the temperature light come up, even if it the thank its filled..do i have to refill other parts? Please help
Hi, make sure to take the air out of the system, using the “ drain “ nut on the right side of the bike near the temp sensor. Time to change the seals or both, shaft and seals when you get the chance :)
@@carlodaolio Good job ! ;). I would make sure if the shaft its in good conditions ..... if is not, and you just change seals, it will start leaking again ..... This are the seals i use / buy. www.ebay.com/itm/264368869503
BMW tell you to fill with grease all the gap between the seals. SOme people just use a little bit, and some others nothing ..... there is no fact that any of those will make a better lasting life of the shaft or seals. As far as i know. So its up to each one of us to go for the one will work better. Sooner or later, the shaft or seals will fail.
Or munched gears lol. happened to me 3 days ago. so lucky it was just 20kms from home. was able to baby-ride it home. took like 2 hours as idiot light was coming on in every little hill so had to stop frequently to cool down the engine (high risk of head gasket failure or boiled coolant or cooked engine). f* this super stupid bmw mechanical pump. I'm going electrical conversion now, parts are coming! If this happened in Siberia I'm completely f*ed. Funny that I just did weekend 1000km trip around Slovakia mountains, then back home did like 100km and it happened. But I checked like 2 months ago when changing coolant and all was fine. Should have paid more attention to those large bits of something when doing last oil change but thought it's just bits of paper seal. Nope it were pieces of gears. Hadn't opened the cover yet but the propeller is spinning completely free so no doubts
I feel your pain ! Its a really not very offten that the gears fail, but when they do, its a very hard to know thats the problem. Hope the electrical will end up all the issues witj the WP ! And good to know you made it back home ok ! :)
@@ridingluna so I took it apart just hour ago and confirm munched gears. I heard there's a club so yeah I'm a new member now lol. wow the cover was really hard to pull off, was super-stuck in one place. and I destroyed the clutch lever in the process :( is it aluminum? I could try to weld it if it is. but seems it's some kind of cheap alloy
@@kovrcek Best thing to do if you can, its just replace the clutch lever .... And yes, if it wasnt open for a long time, it can be hard to take apart ....
@@ridingluna yeah I will replace it to be on the safe side (I learned it's clutch actuator actually). The broken one will be a spare at least as it holds quite well when tightened fully. Was also thinking to "refurbish" old shift lever but rather not lol
Since the shaft is vulnerable to corrosion, and it’s a very simple part, seems like a fabrication of a stainless replacement would be a viable option.
Very useful information. Thank you for sharing your work.
Yes, actually that what i did, talked with a good local turner, and made me a exact copy of the original shaft made of stainless steel. Ill replace the one the i have with it, and lets see how long will last. Still, if we dont do something about the weep hole, sooner or later it will get worn out by the mixture of dusty soil, water and grease. Im uploading in the next days a specific video about the water pump failure, causes and how to prevent the shaft/seals wear problem made by all the dirt that goes thru the weep hole, witch i believe its where all the problem begin.
Im glad you found the info the a shared useful :). Thank you ! And go for the stainless shaft
@@ridingluna That’s very interesting. Thank you for sharing your findings on this issue. I was wondering what caused this problem. I hope your solution works. Have you posted it on any F650 forums? Will be looking for your next video. Ride safe.
@@G58 Thank you, keep in mind that this is very noticiable if you ride most of the time off road, im sure people riding on pavement wont have this kind of problem as often.
I been in the F65o forums, but dont ask my why i use the Dakar Thread on the ADVRider page :). Ride safe as well :)
@@ridingluna Cool. Even though I will be riding in the UK not the Baja desert, it’s still very good to be aware of any weaknesses in any system. Will check out the Dakar Thread on the ADVRider page.
Thank you VERY much. Clear instructions and great close-up filming. Prepping my 2005 650 Dakar for a European trip. Everyone points out potential water pump shaft and or sesl problems. I like your 'get home' emergency repair option. I feel up to doing that along the way ( not so sure re the whole clutch cover replace shaft option) so I will take spare seals with me. BTW: I am lucky. Just found a used 650 Twin Spark engine firm 2005 with 3200 miles on it when my main drive shaft bearing went at 52k miles. So engine now has only 5k miles on it. But seals are still 2005 vintage so could degrade. After this EXCELLENT video from you I am no longer concerned. Thank you.😊
Thank you James ! Its always good to know that the video was helpful for others :)
Yes, the WP its a known potential issue, and its good to have some spears parts if you are doing a long trip. The good thing is, in case the seals or shaft start to wear out, and start some leaking, you will still be able to keep on going, just watch your water levels. And eaven if you only have seals and not the shaft, repleacing them, will also give you more km to keep on riding …..
This bike its still a very reliable, have fun on your trip and thanks for your msg !! 😊
that is one of the best how-to videos I have ever seen posted. I'm looking at buying one of these bikes in a CS version and I saw that little hole on the bottom where it is leaking on this particular bike The seller said exactly what you said that it's a slight water leak from coolant and now I see exactly where it's coming from when you stop the toothpick in that hole. so I can buy the bike really inexpensively and now that I know it's not going to cost very much to fix and probably take about an hour. thank you
Thank you ! Yes, its not a problem to fix it, keep in mind that may be a seal or the shaft. If its the shaft, its a different job, still easy to do. There is a video a just up about how to do it. The water pump parts/kit its not expensive. Arround 70 Us. Just make sure the bike never overheat ….. If you get a good price and thays the only problem, go for it. ;)
Felicidades Esteban . Cómo siempre gran video😮. Sabes que aceite para el motor sería unos de los mejores para esta moto?. Por otro lado escuché no sé dónde, que a esta moto se le puede añadir un líquido refrigerante para q no se caliente tanto, o en el caso cual sería tú recomendación. Gracias y saludos.🎉
Hola Javier ! Gracias, en lo personal uso un aceite semi sintetico, Castrol Actevo, mismo asi, estos motores tienen buena tolerancia, lo que es muy importante a tener en cuenta a la hora de elejir, es que cumpla con el standar de JASO MA, ya que el aceite tambien es usado para lubricacion de clutch. Tambien e usado el Mobil Multigrado, sin problemas. En cuanto al liquido refrigerante, tienes que usar como bien dices, uno para altas temperaturas, generalmente se diferencia por los colores que tiene, y tambien obiamente la informacion en su etiqueta. Aqui uso uno de Mobil, que es de color rosa para altas temperaturas de tolerancia,. su otra version por ejemplo, es de color verde. Te mando un saludo !!
@ridingluna GRANDE!!. siempre, muchas gracias. Un saludo 👋
HOla!! muy buena la info que pones!!! una buena idea para salir del paso y que te deje volver si te da este problema en el camino. consulta!?!?!?! tendras las medidas de los retenes para poner????
Hola Roberto, que bueno te fue util el video.
La medida es 10x26x7
Saludos !
Can't seem to get the cotter pin out to remove the impeller head ... At 4:33, you were able to just tap yours out, but mine is well jammed in there! Can't get it out!!! Any advice?
Hi Kid, yes, somtimes can be a bit difficult to take it out. Use some WD-40, let it sit for a few min, and keep on trying, be gentle do …. and make sure you are hitting just the lip of it …. sooner or later will come out ;) Be patient.
@@ridingluna u just used a small screw driver?
@@KidBrooklyn yep, to hit just one part of the border lip.
Yes, I have the same problem, I am hitting the cotter pin very hard but it doesn't come out at all
Wd40 beat it and finally drilled it with a masonry bit till felt it move and tapped it the rest of the way out. Hoping I didn't have to pull the whole clutch plate.
Could you also share the shaft replacement?
Hi Nur, i didnt replace the shaft yet, i will do a video about it and upload it soon.
Impeller is plastic. So are the gears behind (which are identical twins) the clutch cover. This pair of twin gears drives shaft/impeller, and it's not a bad idea to replace them, too.
Ask me how I know.
Defenetly agree with you ! If you are going to replace the shaft, and got the repleacement kit with all the WP parts. Then change them all :)
Merci pour la vidéo 👏👏👏
Si l'arbre est endommagé, c'est difficile à réparer ?
Alo Marco, no, its not difficult, make sure you have the tools and parts need it for the job. !!
Merci !
Hi, Great Job¡. There is some reason because one seal is Red Fluoro rubber (FKM) and the other one is Black Nitrile rubber (NBR)?.
Hi TItro, in this case, as i just did a temporary fix, replacing just the seals, i use the one i had in hand. The seals used on the bmw water pump kit are a single lip one, and black. Users advice to use the double lip once FKM. The important thing to take notice also is the heat resistance/tolerance of the seal.
Seal compound and choice its a all discussion by itself !
@@ridingluna Thanks for the quick response Riding Luna. I´m totally agreed about replacing the old Single lip Nitrile (NBR) with the better compond Viton (FKM) seals, Operating temperature rated
min.-20 °C / max.200 °C. BTW this is the SKF part Number 10X26X7 HMSA10 V (Just in case 😉). Regards.
@@titroxmexico Thanks for the info ! :)
hello what are the numbers of the retainers to buy them thanks
Hi Dracotrial, the size of the Seals = 10x26x7
@@ridingluna thanks i will buy them
Hello, is there a way to get part number? Of the seal itself
Hi Diart, BMW only sales the whater pump as a kit, not by parts ….
You will need an aftermarket seals, the size that you need for this seals is this one 10x26x7 mm two of them. I get them from Ebay, and this is the one i get “ EAI 10x26x7mm FPM/FKM Oil Shaft Rotary Seal w/ Stainless Steel Spring Dbl Lip “ Hope this helps.
Hello!!
Immediately when I opened the shaft wheel was broken ( the black plastic thing) , the seals are ok, Im very new at this so, is it normal that the shaft doesn't rotate?
@@sofiavilla8716 Hi Sofia, the black plastic thing, its the propeller, easy to replace, just remove the pin that holds it to the shaft carefully with a small screwdriver.
And no, its not normal that the shaft wont rotate. That means one of the small gears inside may be worn out/broken or the pin that hold it to the shaf is gone. You will need to remove the cover to inspect and if thats the case. Replace them. Usually all those parts are included on the water pump kit. ( make sure of that ). Hope that helps. Saludos !
@@ridingluna thank you so much!
I just ordered the replacement. Your video is by far the one that helped me the most, very well explained 👍🏽
How many km's did you do after this repair and did it leak eventually?
Aprox 45.000Km. If the problem is with the seal or shaft, it will leak eventually and thats the sign you need to get a new water pump kit for replace.
@ridingluna oh that's really good! So 45000 km on new seals but with same shaft that had some wear marks already? What seals did you use?
@@evev7158 45.000 K in my case. Some others get less, and others more. So its very variable.
In my case i always had a wear shaft.
So i replace both, shaft amd seals that came with the kit. I do carry with my on long trips, some spears seals, just in case … i got them via ebay US.
Did you have to drop the oil out before you did this or just the coolant?
Hi, just the coolant, when open the water pump cover. You will need to drop the oil to change the water pump shaft. Removing the side engine cover ( clutch ).
@@ridingluna thanks man,appreciated
Mine is leaking water from below the pump. Can I tell if it is seals or shaft just from looking from the outside?
You need to open the pump cober and replace the seals. Then … tou will aee if its a seal or shaft issue.
Hi, i´m lokking your viedeos and I say ,You know much about this motorcycle. I´m sorry , but in a procces to buy a mod 95, I would like to make some questions, I hope not bother you. where do you find these parts? are they easy to find them ? best regards from Colombia.
Hola Dem, no es ninguna molestia, todo lo contrario, me gusta ayudar. Si es del '95 la moto que quieres, no es el mismo modelo de la mia. No se que tan popular fue ese modelo. Las f650gs fueron muy aceptadas y se fabricaron muchisimas, por lo cual, es facil encontrar partes, ya sean nuevas o usadas.
Al estar cerca de USA, busco y encuentro todas las partes alli. Ya sea por ebay, o en una tienda donde tienen todas partes, tambien del modelo que mencionas, www.euromotoelectrics.com/
Mercado Libre tambien encuentras y por grupos que estan armados en facebook de este modelo, donde en general desarman motos y venden las partes.
Si tu duda es comprar o no la moto, por las partes. Mi opinion es, no tendras problema en encontrarlas, en la web encuentras todo.
Saludos cordiales !!
Unfortunately, the wear is not only on the seals but also on the shaft exactly where it touches the seal lips.
Moreover, silly plastic gear that rotates the shaft has short life.... Hope your bike runs OK ! Safe ride!
Hey bud, would piston slap cause overheating?
Hi Arturo, what do mean by “ piston slap “ ?
@@ridingluna my bike has been overheating, checked head, water pump, radiator, fan, everything is fine. But lately I hear engine knock coming from the connecting rod. Checked and the bearing is not good, will try to get another crankshaft but I'm worried it will still overheat. Or do you think a bad crank bearing can cause overheating?
Personally i never heard about a bad crankshaft related with a overheating problem. You still have other reasons for OH problems, like a bad thermostat.
Still, you can post this queston on the advriders under Dakar thread, they have lots of experience and are very helpfull people there.
Also here
faq.f650.com/FAQs/Overheating_FAQ.htm
Hope that helps !
@@ridingluna thank you very much
@@ArtuFlako Anytime Arturo, hope you can find whats the problem and go back riding agein !! :)
Hi, my bike started leaking from that hole and after a while it compleately empties the thank. I refilled the water but afrer i ride for 5 min or so the temperature light come up, even if it the thank its filled..do i have to refill other parts? Please help
Hi, make sure to take the air out of the system, using the “ drain “ nut on the right side of the bike near the temp sensor. Time to change the seals or both, shaft and seals when you get the chance :)
@@ridinglunadid it and now the light doesnt come up!, can you please link me the aftermarket seals that i have to buy? Thanks again!
@@carlodaolio Good job ! ;). I would make sure if the shaft its in good conditions ..... if is not, and you just change seals, it will start leaking again .....
This are the seals i use / buy.
www.ebay.com/itm/264368869503
Thanks, but too much grease will cause the seals to fail. Just spitting a little is enough.
BMW tell you to fill with grease all the gap between the seals.
SOme people just use a little bit, and some others nothing ..... there is no fact that any of those will make a better lasting life of the shaft or seals. As far as i know. So its up to each one of us to go for the one will work better. Sooner or later, the shaft or seals will fail.
Or munched gears lol. happened to me 3 days ago. so lucky it was just 20kms from home. was able to baby-ride it home. took like 2 hours as idiot light was coming on in every little hill so had to stop frequently to cool down the engine (high risk of head gasket failure or boiled coolant or cooked engine). f* this super stupid bmw mechanical pump. I'm going electrical conversion now, parts are coming! If this happened in Siberia I'm completely f*ed. Funny that I just did weekend 1000km trip around Slovakia mountains, then back home did like 100km and it happened. But I checked like 2 months ago when changing coolant and all was fine. Should have paid more attention to those large bits of something when doing last oil change but thought it's just bits of paper seal. Nope it were pieces of gears. Hadn't opened the cover yet but the propeller is spinning completely free so no doubts
I feel your pain ! Its a really not very offten that the gears fail, but when they do, its a very hard to know thats the problem. Hope the electrical will end up all the issues witj the WP ! And good to know you made it back home ok ! :)
@@ridingluna so I took it apart just hour ago and confirm munched gears. I heard there's a club so yeah I'm a new member now lol. wow the cover was really hard to pull off, was super-stuck in one place. and I destroyed the clutch lever in the process :( is it aluminum? I could try to weld it if it is. but seems it's some kind of cheap alloy
@@kovrcek Best thing to do if you can, its just replace the clutch lever .... And yes, if it wasnt open for a long time, it can be hard to take apart ....
@@ridingluna yeah I will replace it to be on the safe side (I learned it's clutch actuator actually). The broken one will be a spare at least as it holds quite well when tightened fully. Was also thinking to "refurbish" old shift lever but rather not lol
simering 10x26x7
simering 10x26x7
❣️ ᵖʳᵒᵐᵒˢᵐ
P