Its so great to see cutting edge climbs filmed and posted on youtube (where we can watch & get inspiration for free). Thanks to Chris & crew. Please ignore the spray about bolts or starting the the second clipped or whatever. Get a life people! When you can climb the grade and get a film crew, you're welcome to do it better.
Andy was my counselor at a sleep away camp when I started climbing ten years ago. It was a fantastic experience and encouraged me to keep going with the sport. Now I coach kids at my gym, and look forward to climbing for the rest of my life
How Tommy climbs with 3 fingers and his thumb on one hand is unbelievable, the dedication to train and build strength in that grip is unreal, but so true.
Hey great Video Chris! Omg I remember the movie kinglines when I saw you visiting spain and spots like this! Loved the scenes you are home with your dad! Thanks for sharing your life with me! :)
CHRIS........................ NICE TO SEE YOU HAVE THE SPECIAL SKILLS TO OVERCOME THE MASSIVE CHALLENGES YOU NEED TO ENDURE ON YOUR PIVOTAL DANGEROUS HIKES. FANTASTIC MY MAN.
So cool to see the gracious shout-out to Ethan Pringle and the acknowledgment of role reversal. About the close bolting: if some of these are working bolts, why clip them all on the redpoint attempt? I'm missing something.
That's the second time I've seen that injury! In the semifinal of a world cup event about 10 years ago Sashi Amma fell on the last move and cracked his chin that way. He was rushed to the local hospital, got stitched up and was back for the final later that day. Got on the podium as far as I remember.
The route looks amazing! Have to agree with many here though. The route has too many bolts. Many here justify that because the route is so hard. Ok, a 5.11.d can be as hard for some climber if thats his maximum. Should we put a bolt on all 7a:s every one meter?
yes the guy Yes, the guy who equipped it could only do it that way, we assume that he didn't have the level to climb it and he equipped it the way he could.
Not to make any controversy but this line look doable to be climb using trad gear. Is there any info about this line being tryed trad or if it's event possible (the crack looks open but small and flared). May be it's just to dangerous and the gear would be to small for such a hard climb.
I was the one who filmed this route and I think that despite being equipped with too many anchors, I think it could be tried in traditional, but it's hard as hell hahahaha
Generally no, usually there is enough friction in the system to compensate. Usually only an issue with small women or children. Also, on mult-pitch climbing the belayer is usually anchored anyway. In sport climbing I see a few more mismatched climbing partners using the Edelrid Ohm these days, improves belayer comfort and can save the climber a "deck party" if they fall on an early bolt.
Man, some folks sippin' hard on the haterade. People will always have their opinions. It's the ones who embrace their communities and share positivity who are the most cherished by those around them. The other's..... not so much.
Am I the only one who noticed the clips with the gate towards the wall, thereby, potentially resulting in a triload on the carabiner? I was taught to always face the gate away from the fall, which in this case a left leaning route would denote clipping the hangers with the biner facing to the right.
@kellen edmonds Thank you for comments and likes on my posts , I really appreciate you,all pleasure is mine , DM I got a message for you.+16232322367 GOD bless you
I thought the same... why so much bolts? in the first meters ok but the top section the half of the bolts would be ok too... its boltet like a gym route... But good Video and good climb
Probably because it's such a sustained and difficult section, they didn't want to waste a bunch of energy climbing back after falling while they were working out the beta.
Oh boy, I get so bored of all the socially inept self righteous climbing style ethicists that love to join an anti-bolt circle jerk. "I'd better show how morally superior I am by calling out anyone that doesn't follow my infallible arbitrary rules on how to scale rocks".
BROH NO YOU ARENT EVEN A ROCK CLIMBER TILL YOU'VE FREE SOLOED EL CAP, THE DAWN WALL WITH NO CLOTHES ON, AND THE ONLY NUTS AND BOLTS YOU HAVE ARE THE ONES SWINGING BETWEEN YOUR LEGS BROGH. THE ONLY ROPE YOU NEED IS THE ONE YOU LEAVE ON THE GROUND, THE ONLY FALL PROTECTION YOU NEED IS A GRAVE DUG UNDER WHERE YOU GONNA FALL ANYWAYS. CLIMB TIL YOU DIE AND ALL THAT SHIT. FUCK BOLTS, IM GONNA GO FLASH A 17.4b+-A PITCH, FREE SOLO, NO HANDS
Chris Sharma is the appitomy of 'Perfect Physique' , not Bruce lee, not arnold. I sure would like to start climbin, but there ain't any mountains where I live😑
The route was bolted by Dean Potter, so it's normal to have a lot of bolts, did you ever check the climbing ethic rules back to those days? So if not, stop commenting bull shit and go read some articles.
shit, I'm always effraid to hurt myself with bolt, but I was always thinking, this can't happend, this has never happen, now I know it's possible shit.....
Seeing this over bolting is just sad. I understand that this shit is hard as hell, but climbing should be balanced with conserving nature. Otherwise someday you see bolts after each move just so the avantgarde can reach the next possible grade. At some point you have to draw a line: If it's too hard, then it's too hard.
Its a real issue. I'm a park ranger at an area where there is a very small crag. Until recently there has been a top-rope only ethic. Someone showed up a couple of years back, under the radar of course, and grid bolted a couple of rock faces. Birders and hikers got super irate, rightly so. Bolts had to go bye-bye to preserve access. Be careful how and where you bolt...
when I am looking for a route, I know is there, because the book said so and there is the name written on the bottom.. I still can't see any bolt after the first one..I can understand that grid bolting is useless, better search for route and follow them, but unless the bolt in your country are red and 10 times the size i am used to, you won't spot them unless you are there climbing...
I’m guessing that working the slanting route efficiently requires not falling too far from the high point, making close bolting desirable at that stage. Ironic that Chris then cut his chin on a bolt when falling off! But yeah, why clip them all on the red point attempt, just a waste of energy, unless the video is assembled from cuts of other attempts as well as the successful RP. I’m certainly not putting myself out there as an ethics expert, but it seems factual that the bolts are close together. There is also a lot more chalk on the shelf of that boulder than is required for the hand positions on the problem. This is something that I’ve seen commented on in other videos of other problems, one featuring Airwolf for example, although that wasn’t the problem with the most chalk. I’m not sure why entire features are being chalked. Yes it will wash off eventually, but not as quickly as one might think. However, there is a lot of rock out there.....
To all you kids: hard climbs like this have "working bolts" that let you project move-by-move and pull past sections in order to concentrate a working burn on one particular section. In many cases it would actually be dangerous to fall with only first bolt clipped. Always feel free to stick-clip the second bolt if it looks like there might be groundfall potential with just the first bolt clipped.
Sharma has got to be one of the most confident looking climbers
Not only is his climbing world class but he just seams like a super nice dude, im a fan 👍
He sets for tall people 🙄
@@jillsanders7072 I like him even more now
Its so great to see cutting edge climbs filmed and posted on youtube (where we can watch & get inspiration for free). Thanks to Chris & crew. Please ignore the spray about bolts or starting the the second clipped or whatever. Get a life people! When you can climb the grade and get a film crew, you're welcome to do it better.
Andy was my counselor at a sleep away camp when I started climbing ten years ago. It was a fantastic experience and encouraged me to keep going with the sport. Now I coach kids at my gym, and look forward to climbing for the rest of my life
Thank you for comments and likes on my posts , I really appreciate you,all pleasure is mine , DM I got a message for you.+16232322367
GOD bless you
Excelente Chris, pasan los años y seguís escalando a un gran nivel.
it's nice to see the failures and the hardship and not just the clean ascent.. thanks for showing that. make this vid all the more inspiring.
Hey Chris I went to your climbing gym and the arch is amazing dude
I don’t care if the kids can climb 5.16 these days, sharma will always be the king. Style for daysss
How Tommy climbs with 3 fingers and his thumb on one hand is unbelievable, the dedication to train and build strength in that grip is unreal, but so true.
I noticed that. Is it by choice? or does he have an injured finger?
@@Noold he's missing half of his index from a disk saw accident
@@lawsong6663 table saw
Sick send!! Still wondering how this thing is fully bolted though, heaps and heaps of .2 and .3 cam placements and nut placements...
Hey great Video Chris! Omg I remember the movie kinglines when I saw you visiting spain and spots like this! Loved the scenes you are home with your dad! Thanks for sharing your life with me! :)
Great work Chris!!!! What an epic route :-)
CHRIS........................ NICE TO SEE YOU HAVE THE SPECIAL SKILLS TO OVERCOME THE MASSIVE CHALLENGES YOU NEED TO ENDURE ON YOUR PIVOTAL DANGEROUS HIKES. FANTASTIC MY MAN.
Chris. Just, you always inspire! Thank you.
So cool to see the gracious shout-out to Ethan Pringle and the acknowledgment of role reversal. About the close bolting: if some of these are working bolts, why clip them all on the redpoint attempt? I'm missing something.
Must be several good clipping stances. Why not clip if you can do so easily? That or the film was not the real RP attempt (more likely?).
Such a good song at 0:53!
Anyone, please help with the name
It’s in the description
Yes buddy! you climb the most beautiful lines in the world, only Brazil is lacking, rsrsr. You are the lines king!!!
Frederico Almeida Gonçalves hey Fred, is there any good climbing in the Parana region?
Chris eres muy completo siempre estas motivandome a mas. Felicidades saludos!!!!!!
That's the second time I've seen that injury! In the semifinal of a world cup event about 10 years ago Sashi Amma fell on the last move and cracked his chin that way. He was rushed to the local hospital, got stitched up and was back for the final later that day. Got on the podium as far as I remember.
The route looks amazing! Have to agree with many here though. The route has too many bolts. Many here justify that because the route is so hard. Ok, a 5.11.d can be as hard for some climber if thats his maximum. Should we put a bolt on all 7a:s every one meter?
Peter Hammer You’re 100% right. It looks like most this route could have been done with trad gear anyways
When you bolt a 5.14c/d, be sure to place as few bolts as possible
IT IS BUT A FLESH WOUND!
tis' *
Great video :-) Like always...inspiring and with such a positive attitude. Thanks man :-)
The GOAT never gets pumped
Outstanding chris
What an absolute rockstar
Chris got karate-chopped by everything is karate
Sharma is just a machine on the cliffside!!
If this route is Karate, is it ok to chop those bolts?
00:50 name song ?
What's the name of the track at 4:25?
Propper chilled out to this channel 🙏
Does anyone know the projected grade of deans route in the beginning?
Phenomenal climber. Needs way more recognition.
Chris Sharma is one of the most widely recognized climbers ever?
Excellent!
Solid and calculated. Right
Is there reason the bolts are so close together?
yes the guy Yes, the guy who equipped it could only do it that way, we assume that he didn't have the level to climb it and he equipped it the way he could.
Not to make any controversy but this line look doable to be climb using trad gear. Is there any info about this line being tryed trad or if it's event possible (the crack looks open but small and flared). May be it's just to dangerous and the gear would be to small for such a hard climb.
I was the one who filmed this route and I think that despite being equipped with too many anchors, I think it could be tried in traditional, but it's hard as hell hahahaha
sorry new to climbing, what is meant by 5.14D or lets say 9ab+
i am smooth on 5.6 plus....does that count?
Hello! does anyone know song played on everything is karate ascent?
Thank you for comments and likes on my posts , I really appreciate you,all pleasure is mine , DM I got a message for you.+16232322367
GOD bless you
sharma is a lot bigger than tommy, how are they belaying each other ? does't the weight have to be close ? like a 170-180-190
Generally no, usually there is enough friction in the system to compensate. Usually only an issue with small women or children. Also, on mult-pitch climbing the belayer is usually anchored anyway. In sport climbing I see a few more mismatched climbing partners using the Edelrid Ohm these days, improves belayer comfort and can save the climber a "deck party" if they fall on an early bolt.
5.14C/D or A0 bolt ladder ;)
California loves you! so does Santa Cruz!
6:00 bolt ladder. Those bolts look 3 feet apart.
when did this happen? everything is karate
Ummm, was that Lachlan Murdoch at the end??
Man, some folks sippin' hard on the haterade. People will always have their opinions. It's the ones who embrace their communities and share positivity who are the most cherished by those around them. The other's..... not so much.
The song please...?
Such a nice name for a route.
Omg...I'm way to scary for something like that. This is close as I get. I always like to watch only😊
I couldn’t climb 14 D with four hands/twenty fingers, tommy does it with 9. Insanity
dr. Andy fixed my chin up....lol
Am I the only one who noticed the clips with the gate towards the wall, thereby, potentially resulting in a triload on the carabiner? I was taught to always face the gate away from the fall, which in this case a left leaning route would denote clipping the hangers with the biner facing to the right.
@kellen edmonds Thank you for comments and likes on my posts , I really appreciate you,all pleasure is mine , DM I got a message for you.+16232322367
GOD bless you
somebody pleasseeee whats the song name! shazam has failed me!
Hi Dude!!
Here you have the tracklist:
RBMALS ROSSTONES Helmholt
BLUEUTOPIA ComplaintGrail
WIDESKY Cement
SUNSETSWELLS NaturalGlide
Enjoy it!! ;D
you're amazing! thanks so much! gona be sending listening to bluetopia this weekend!
Wait, Shrama climbs granite?
oh yeah
Las cintas express están al revéz? O es ilusión del video.... 😐
Why not show the whole thing? Looks stitched bro
Is there any way to protect that climb with gear? There are so many freaking bolts right along that crack...
Go for it dude. Make sure you film it
I thought the same... why so much bolts? in the first meters ok but the top section the half of the bolts would be ok too... its boltet like a gym route... But good Video and good climb
It's so they can project it without having to repeat hard sequences they already know over and over again. Shits hard man
There's a bolt every three damn feet. Someone spent a fortune on hardware.
And yeah, that likely would go on gear and be just as safe.
Probably because it's such a sustained and difficult section, they didn't want to waste a bunch of energy climbing back after falling while they were working out the beta.
Cool video. I don't really care about bolting ethics but I will say this line has the bolts way too close together. Every five feet, seriously?
Thank you for sharing that piece. Your shit's always got class. Sharma got that karma.
Love from India 🇮🇳..bro..
Yo creo que aún podía caber algún parabolt más.....
Climbing in the day, singing californication by night.
Looks like good gear would go into those cracks. Bolts needed because of rock quality?
Oh boy, I get so bored of all the socially inept self righteous climbing style ethicists that love to join an anti-bolt circle jerk. "I'd better show how morally superior I am by calling out anyone that doesn't follow my infallible arbitrary rules on how to scale rocks".
BROH NO YOU ARENT EVEN A ROCK CLIMBER TILL YOU'VE FREE SOLOED EL CAP, THE DAWN WALL WITH NO CLOTHES ON, AND THE ONLY NUTS AND BOLTS YOU HAVE ARE THE ONES SWINGING BETWEEN YOUR LEGS BROGH. THE ONLY ROPE YOU NEED IS THE ONE YOU LEAVE ON THE GROUND, THE ONLY FALL PROTECTION YOU NEED IS A GRAVE DUG UNDER WHERE YOU GONNA FALL ANYWAYS. CLIMB TIL YOU DIE AND ALL THAT SHIT. FUCK BOLTS, IM GONNA GO FLASH A 17.4b+-A PITCH, FREE SOLO, NO HANDS
At his video is so insane
Awesome
Why do you always cut out the actual clipping ? That´s so annoying
Chris is reminiscing; I must be old.
Sweet climb
a few huffs and groans and it is in the bag!
I don’t understand how he makes 5.14 c/d look so effortless
everything is pool 👋🏻🎱👄🎱🤚🏻
Badass!!
Chris Sharma is the appitomy of 'Perfect Physique' , not Bruce lee, not arnold.
I sure would like to start climbin, but there ain't any mountains where I live😑
Find a indoor gym
The route was bolted by Dean Potter, so it's normal to have a lot of bolts, did you ever check the climbing ethic rules back to those days? So if not, stop commenting bull shit and go read some articles.
would love to fly there
Sharma channel really hhmm yeah
Thanks Chris for showing the new generation the way to go... with tick marks...
R.I.P. Dean Potter
Wow
the soundtrack to this is way too sensual.
Thank you for comments and likes on my posts , I really appreciate you,all pleasure is mine , DM I got a message for you.+16232322367
GOD bless you
Shaaaaaaa!!!
4:21
shit, I'm always effraid to hurt myself with bolt, but I was always thinking, this can't happend, this has never happen, now I know it's possible shit.....
Damn got sweaty hands
Rofl who are these nobodies critiquing bolt etiquette
damn way to many bolts for such a pretty line pull some of them out
Are you an Indian American?
Everything is jiu-jitsu
Holy Bolts Batman
Forreal tho every 4 feet seems excessive
Or every 2 in some sections
Bolting a crack?
yes, it is not ideal, but the line is still beautiful
잘헸어 샤마
The “passu cones” in Pakistan🇵🇰 are out of the world and probably impossible 😱to climb 🧗♀️
Seeing this over bolting is just sad. I understand that this shit is hard as hell, but climbing should be balanced with conserving nature. Otherwise someday you see bolts after each move just so the avantgarde can reach the next possible grade. At some point you have to draw a line: If it's too hard, then it's too hard.
Balint Gyapjas you gotta admit it....that 1m runout to the topout chains was x-treme! Groundfall territory...with 51m of slack.
i don't see how bolting is ever going to ruin a wall surface.. can you see them from somewhere that is not like 2 meter from the bolt itself?
Its a real issue. I'm a park ranger at an area where there is a very small crag. Until recently there has been a top-rope only ethic. Someone showed up a couple of years back, under the radar of course, and grid bolted a couple of rock faces. Birders and hikers got super irate, rightly so. Bolts had to go bye-bye to preserve access. Be careful how and where you bolt...
when I am looking for a route, I know is there, because the book said so and there is the name written on the bottom.. I still can't see any bolt after the first one..I can understand that grid bolting is useless, better search for route and follow them, but unless the bolt in your country are red and 10 times the size i am used to, you won't spot them unless you are there climbing...
I’m guessing that working the slanting route efficiently requires not falling too far from the high point, making close bolting desirable at that stage. Ironic that Chris then cut his chin on a bolt when falling off! But yeah, why clip them all on the red point attempt, just a waste of energy, unless the video is assembled from cuts of other attempts as well as the successful RP. I’m certainly not putting myself out there as an ethics expert, but it seems factual that the bolts are close together. There is also a lot more chalk on the shelf of that boulder than is required for the hand positions on the problem. This is something that I’ve seen commented on in other videos of other problems, one featuring Airwolf for example, although that wasn’t the problem with the most chalk. I’m not sure why entire features are being chalked. Yes it will wash off eventually, but not as quickly as one might think. However, there is a lot of rock out there.....
The “passu cones” in Pakistan are out of the world and probably impossible to climb 🧗♀️
Climbing
He died at the scene
To all you kids watching: 2nd bolt pre-clipped is not good style.
Broken ankles are overrated!
pfft bolts are aid dude they should have just free soloed. the ideal style.
Kook.
Lemme know when you climb harder than Chris.
To all you kids: hard climbs like this have "working bolts" that let you project move-by-move and pull past sections in order to concentrate a working burn on one particular section. In many cases it would actually be dangerous to fall with only first bolt clipped. Always feel free to stick-clip the second bolt if it looks like there might be groundfall potential with just the first bolt clipped.
holy shit sew it up!