Good Video! Great presentation. Just a comment re: Winterizing Boat engines for Rich C. I run anti-freeze through my raw water cooled engine until it's coming out blue or purple depending on temp range and manufacturer. Collect the AF that's been through the engine and pump it through the heads. Drain water tanks etc. I've had -35C with wind chill -50C in AK and N Finland. Engine always started and ran fine. 2GM20. My 2GM20 has 4361 hours from new and starts on the button every time. Nothing but regular maintenance and 3 elbows (The cheap knockoffs) plus a bunch of bleed screws which tend to get weepy. I bypassed the lift pump (wobble pump or butterfly depending on where you are) and installed low capacity electric pumps wired to the ignition. Key on pumps starts/key off pump quits (actually 2 in a mini wire dioded splitter for quick changeover) so bleeding is a non-event. I did this 4 years ago and swap the electric pumps over on my 100 hour checklist. both still put out 4.5 psi on a $7.00 radio shack gauge ...BTW - The engine quits if the mechanical lift pump dies on both GM engines. The 1GM suffers from lift pump failures more than the 2GM but not if well filtered fuel with no diesel bug etc. On my previous boat I had a 1GM I bought second hand - with hours unknown for 200USD. Got 2800 hrs or so out of it, but always polished fuel (10microns) between main tank and 22 liter day tank and used Prist in cold wx. Changed oil every 100 hours religiously. Yanmar make good engines and the ones that die early have been murdered, it wasn't suicide ;-) One other thing to watch...The gearboxes that come with the 1 or 2 GM are produced by Kanzaki (Subsidiary of Yanmar I think) and have a goofy yellow handled dipstick on the left side of gearbox. There is no high/low fill line. Just one line right at the bottom and that's the high level limit. The end of the stick is the low level fill line. It takes a standard beer can amount .03 to 0.33 litres after draining (you never get it all). It just feels wrong with that goofy dipstick, but that's the way it works. Rest the dipstick on the fill hole rim to check but don't screw it in. I've used the beer can measure about 40 times and is the easiest way to be sure. You won't see the level as the dipstick is too shiny; so either rough it up with wet and dry or as I do, drain it out and use a beer can full to replenish it. You might have to drain and wipe out the beer can first. ;-) Finally! Some manuals say use the same oil as the engine. some don't - but Yanmar France told me to use straight 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Do not trash the gearbox. The price of a new one will make your eyes water.... Final tip...The engineer in Yanmar France caught me out. I was bragging that my engines starts before I can get my finger off the button. He said an engine that takes 5 seconds to start is better because mine is up and running before any oil has circulated. I'd never heard of that before but it sorta makes sense. Now I don't use the batteries crossover for engine start. Just remembered: I take the water pump impeller out so it has a chance to relax and go back to normal shape. No point replacing it next year if it's all good. Cheers...
The engine block drain you mention is not from the thermostat but from the block itself situated below the exhaust elbow and behind the fuel lift pump. It has a plastic knurled knob and often blocks so worth unscrewing and back flushing if it doesn’t drain easily. Important to drain the block when cold weather winterising the engine. I’ve used the vinegar trick regularly to clean my engines but didn’t realise the importance of neutralising it afterwards so thanks for that
To be honest I think neutralizing it is not mega important because the seawater will soon flush out the acid, but better safe than sorry. I didn't have that plastic knob on my engine, possibly different configurations exist.
@@drawingboard82 have a look under the fuel filter for a block shaped fitting screwed into the side of the block about level with the dip stick hole. It may or may not have a plastic pipe drain. That will drain the block and blocks with crud so unscrew it and clean it before back flushing. I have rebuilt over 6 1gm and 1gm10s and the all had the drain there. It’s not that obvious and if you look at the manual the drain fitting line goes not to the thermostat but to the block itself but they drew it going behind the thermostat which is a rare bit of Japanese oversight 😂
I do this with 1 litre of brick acid in a builders bucket with freshwater (hydrochloric acid) every years otherwise it clogs up really badly. Missed 1 year and paid for it with an engine overheat warning as it was so clogged up. Run it up 1/2hr at a time for 3 or 4 times. The stuff in the bucket is pretty grimy by the end. Then I run it through with freshwater and then saltwater as normal.
Nice video! I'm based in Largs, and about to do the same with my 2GM. Quick question for you if you don't mind - where's the water coming from at 11:42? I wouldn't have expected to see this, since you're taking those hose from the thermostat out of the elbow, and sending it to the bucket? Thanks
@@barrythomson5232 Good luck! Its really important to pump fresh water down the exhaust, otherwise the flexible connector will melt. Be careful to ensure the hose is connected securely or you'll have Carbon Monoxide in the cabin...
No one wants to overcomplicate any installation. That said, for the life of me, I can not wrap my mind around circulating seawater through an engine. I have seen many low-hour marinized engines corroded to a point where it would be pointless to attempt any rebuild or put the engine back into service after an inspection. There was simply nothing left to work with. The engine blocks and heads were corroded beyond salvation. These boats were put into the water for the warm season and at a slip in a marina. The engines were flushed with fresh water when the boat was hauled out for the winter. About ten years +or- of this did them in. I saw this over and over many times. My two cents worth, inter-cooling is the way to go if an operator plans to rebuild and not junk used engines. Yes, I do understand you have limited space on a small craft.
It definitely breaks traditional logic, to run water (Especially salt/ocean) through a metal engine... however, I just rebuilt my 1979 Yanmar raw (Salt/Ocean) water cooled engine in 2017 (38 years old) and the block was fine. It seems if the anodes are replaced in time, every time, it simply is not a problem. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I assume the system, is just a simpler system. What I mean is that there is one system, rather than 2 systems where the same antifreeze or fresh water circulates the engine and an entirely other system circulates for raw water and a heat exchanger.
I thought the same, but my 2qm15 yanmar has been running since 1979 in the SF bay....with good zincs and a freshwater flush as I motor back into the marina. I draw fresh water from an onboard tank for the last +/- 5 min.
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have the same engine and after watching this video I went to my boat and did the same set up as this but it wasn’t drawing any water from my bucket… did you use a 12v pump to pump the vinaigrette solution though or is your water pump on the engine doing all the work? I have a weak water flow from the stern of the boat so I thought I would try this. When the engine is running via sea water it is pumping water but not as much as I think it should. But no draw at all from the bucket method.. Any advice would be great. Thanks Phil, gosport uk
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment! I did not use any additional pump to get water into the engine. If you removed the suction hose from the main inlet strainer, and placed it in the bucket, it should suck water from the bucket in the same way that it normally sucks water from the sea. If this is not happening, its likely down to one of two things: 1: Your pump impeller is worn out and not pumping correctly (Most likely in my opinion) 2: Your entire pipework and internal engine passageways are so calced up that water isnt getting through (I doubt its that bad, if it was I suspect your engine wouldnt work.) With the Yanmar 1GM10 series the water pump (Shown at this link www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/refurbishing-yanmar-1gm10-water-pump-44891) has a rubber inlet and outlet hose. You might have to remove the drive belt pully to see this properly but this is fairly straightforward. So to check the pumps function you could remove the outlet hose from the pump and turn the engine over on the starter motor with the decompressor (Manual shutdown) leaver rased. If it sucks water through then the rest of the engine is gunked up. If it doesnt, then the pump (Or the pipe leading to it) is the problem. If its the pump, the most likely issue is a worn impeller. I have had widely varying accounts of how long impellers last. I changed mine every couple of years but in practice it didnt need it. In other waters, it might. Any chandler will have spare impellers and they are easy to replace. Its probably worth doing it if you havent for a while. Whilst you are at it I reccomend changing the engine sacrificial anode. It wasnt in my manual for some reason, and by the time I realised it existed it had completely disintigrated. If the engine is entirly gunked up then the only thing I can suggest is trying to force a solution through it with an external pump. Hopefully it wont come to that. Happy to help further. If you like drop me an email on oliverepsom@gmail.com. Best regards
@@drawingboard82 thanks so much for the detailed reply. I will be down the boat on Saturday to do what you have recommended. I will keep you posted.. kind regards Phil
great video. Nothing like an engineer talking about engines. Any idea where I can get a pdf file for that "old" 1GM manual with the detailed drawings of the cooling systems? I have the newer version only.
Thanks very much for this excellent clear explanation and very nice demo. I'm about to do it on m'y 1gm10. I juste have a question (just to make sure I do it right) : is it actually Bleach that the chemist recommand as a base solution ? No fear of toxic fumes due to the chemical reaction with the vinagar ? Many thanks for your answer, Denys
It was indeed bleach. But obviously keep everything well ventilated. A bigger fume risk is exhaust entering the cabin so make sure the hosepipe is rigged and running otherwise you risk a trip to the promised land.
Thank you for that. I'm a new sailor and have been on Lake Chelan here in Washington state. I haven't been in a tide or current that will be in Puget sound. My question is how well do these 1gm10 perform in a current? Is there sufficient thrust to motor into a current? Is there an equation to calculate the thrust needed or a rule of thumb?
You're welcome. It all depends on how big and what type of boat you have. My boat was 27 feet, about 2000kg, and would go six knots flat out under power. I am not familiar with the tidal streams in Puget sound but in general I think you should be able to handle them, perhaps with a bit of common sense about tidal times etc. Right nice for example I'm sailing through gonna sound, between coll and tiree in Scotland against a three knot tide without difficulty
@@drawingboard82 Thank You again my boat is also 27' and 5000 lbs. I gathered from your info that a 3 knot tide is comfortable. That is a good rule, surprised somehow I was not able to see that as my boat also cruises at 6 knots.
@@timothyarmstrong5987 No worries. Happy sailing. Just take your time, be cautious and build up your skills and experience. I highly recommend a good anchor. A Knox is perfect. It gives you the opportunity to pause if you need a break. I was as nervous as hell when I got my boat. Didn't have a clue. But you get better.
I just got this model 4 month back last week I got hot and the sensor cut in and I switched of I switch on to moor on a swing for there was no way back in due to tide no issue but after 10 mins sensor sounded but I was moored for the night after sailing the next day coming in I lost wind I run the engine three quarters and appeared fine for 15 to 20 mins no issue now in my berth I will be running maintance to sort this . How did that glove filter set up ? I understood the hose water feed to the out pipe which pushes fumes and the close system to flush the engine . Also I saw a hairline crack on my engine in what looks like the cover in the front of the engine with out close inspection I think it is on the housing its under the yellow oil cap would this affect the engine there is no leak of oil and it is not in the block it appears, can I replace this as I think it just looks like a cover it`s if cracked may have come from vibration ? Any other thing I can check , which are not the routine like the strainer or sea cock impeller . I will not be attempting the procedure yet but will be on board this Thursday to identify all the things in your video and organise that hose to insure safety and next visit flush . Thank you for you help . Just parted with a 10 HP Sabb 1964 different world and time, raw water straight through crude and forgiving . This 1gm 10 appears good but less forgiving and I am learning it and grateful for you expertise I am not a mechanic but have a good basic knowledge probably enough to own a boat !!! Any help apricated Jeremy
Very sorry, I just saw this. The youtube comments machine seems to be confused! I found the 1GM10 to be a very reliable and tough engine, and most of its shortcommings - slow response, difficult to start cold, noisy and vibrational - were due to its simplicity - Indirect injection swirl chamber, single cylinder. It was certianly a big improvement over the Renault I had before and the only real complaint I have is the price of spairs.
Thank you for your tutorial on the Yanmar 1GM10 , I have a fault on my cooling system .After changing the impeller and thermostat it runs perfect .But every so often if I raise the throttle to fast it appears to get an air lock. The water in the pipe above the thermostat housing appears hotter less water is pushed out astern causing the alarm there is an anti sython valve above that pipe which then goes to the exhaust elbow . I see that on your boat you do not have this set up ,your pipe goes straight to the elbow .Do the thinK this may be a route of my problem and pehapes I by pass this value and connect the pipe straight to the elbow junction (this sython value must be is there for a reason ) to avoid this occasional problem ? If is starts in the first place to run cool the engine can go there after at the right temperature but it may just warn up from go to hot or if I speed up the throttle to quickly . It happens approx one time in five. Any advice will be highly appreciated Thank you
Have u checked the seacock for obstructions? Close the seacock valve, disconect the hose, than open the valve to check the sea water flow. Also check the filter basket for air leaking.
@@ww07ff Thank you for your replay since I have corrected the issue it was an obstruction in the exhaust elbow which I cured it with a good soaking in a diluted brick acid mixture once off after inspection and the elbow still fit for use by not being to corroded. I have also set up the plumbing to carry out your decarb. method for the flushing of the block and await a slot, but have been grabbing as much time out sailing to end of this summer. Thank you for you help.
The t piece on the front of the engine on a 1 gm normally blocks and replace the steel exhaust elbow with a stainless one it’s a very common fault…marine engineer ⛵🇬🇧
I upped the concentration of acid a few times. To be honest I'm not convinced the inside was that bad to begin with, but this gives peace of mind. Could use a (very expensive) central heating cleaner for a potentially better result.
Hi, I saw your video and thank you for your help. I'm about to do it so It will help me a lot. It's har for me to understand all your explanation and I lost some points (I have an survival english). My questions are: The yellow pipe is for the combustion gases right? Why this pipe has a key? Could you tell me any example of household bleach brand? (I will try to find it in Barcelona). Did you do 2 times 50 minutes each? Thank you!
The yellow pipe is a water pipe that pumps water into the exhaust. The "key" on the yellow pipe is a valve to turn the water on and off. Any bleach will work. And run it for as long as you like. Good luck 😊
@@drawingboard82 Hi, this is a really very well done video. I also like the theory part at the begin. I've the same problema and I'm going to implement your method. I still didn't understood how the yellow pipe works. You wrote it is a water supply connected to the exaust. So you put water into the exaust. How do you manage to bring exaust gas out of the boat? Really don't understand. And I also don't understand why do you need this yellow pipe. Why not to put just a pipe connected to the exausts? And have some more water ready to reduce the temperature of the bucket? Thanks a lot for your time.
@@GiuseppeLucisano hi guiseppi thanks for the comment, glad you enjoy it. Usually the engine pulls in water from the sea and pumps it out the exhaust line. This cools the exhaust. Most of the exhaust is a rubber hose. If there is no water mixed with the hot exhaust gas the exhaust pipe would melt or catch fire. Worse, if you don't have the yellow hose connected to the exhaust line then exhaust will come out if the hole the yellow hose is attached to and suffocate you. The yellow hose contains fresh water which when piped into the exhaust does the same job that seawater usually does. It is probably the most important thing to do. Be safe and if you have any further questions please ask. Because if you get it wrong you might poisen yourself.
@@drawingboard82 ok, so the yellow pipe bring fresh water in the exhaust hose but it a discontinuous flow managed by the red valve. Right? Wich is an indicative % of open valve and % of closed valve? How long does the cleaning process takes to you? 15 minutes right?
@@GiuseppeLucisano just leave the red valve open when the engine is running :-) around 25 minutes should be enough but make sure the engine is warm otherwise the thermostat will divert the cleaner around the engine.
109 quid on e- bay, of try to borrow one and get a blacksmith to make one, they are extremely difficult to crankstart tho, I tried on mine earlier today.
Hi!! was missing new videos from your channel!! I don't have any experience with this concrete engine... but it seems to me, due to the knocking noise and vibration, that a crankshaft bearing needs some service. keep an eye on the oil pressure!! Maybe this engine has this knocking behavior as standard....I don't know, hope yes!!. Cheers!!!
Thanks Adrian, appreciate that. I have stuck my head around other 1gm10s and they sound similar to me but no harm in me taking a look over the winter, though I'll have to pull the engine! Not experienced any oil pressure issues but again it's worth keeping my eye on!
Yes Andy and Drawing Board, I was actually going to "not buy a specific boat" due to that noise, but the marine surveyor said very literally; "Oh no, that's why they call them the Yammer-Hammer" - the Yanmars are known for this banging. Maybe other brands are also, but this is certainly the case with every Yanmar that I ever saw... or heard.
Good question. There isn't one! If you're worried about it freezing, best thing to do is remove the rubber hose from the water pump outlet. That will let any water in tge inside drain out. I like to flush it with fresh water first using the method shown in this video, with water instead of cleaner. These engines are pretty tough and well made so I think frost damage is unlikely even if they are not drained.
drawingboard82 thanks mate, I thought I was missing something!!! I’ve taken the impeller plate off and removed the impeller which let a bit of water out?
@@drawingboard82 Thanks for the reply. I have a 1 GM 000830 model, very old and still works. I also have a slightly newer one which has seized but has all the other parts in pretty mint condition. i am hoping to swap over the best bits but i am unsure on how far to go..I also want to hook up the original wiring harness.. but i cannot find any vids about the subject. I am hoping to be motoring around Shetland in the coming summer on a 17 foot oyster style cuddy boat which is also being rebuilt. i can send you some pics for the crack if interested.
@@dprkassassin1876 I know that you didn't ask me, but I think there are tolerances to be aware of and I mean to answer your question this way; 1. There are external / removable parts to consider (Injectors and high pressure pump, etcetera. Things that "unbolt from the outside) - consider that separate for a minute, they mostly have to com e off for a "rebuild anyway" 2. There is a "top end rebuild" and tolerances for rings, connecting rods, etcetera... 3. There is a full rebuild, or maybe if you exclude 1 and 2 above, think of this 3rd as a "bottom end rebuild" and tolerances on crank shaft bearings matter. It is also more work... -------------------------------------------------- Trying to answer your question, "how far to go" is best answered if you or someone can figure out bottom end (i.e. crank shaft) tolerances. If they're out of range, you're best working, 2 and 3. If they're fine, you're best going "as far as 2 only." If you're doing all this much work, ripping apart and such, do the most you can do because after it's apart and you're working on it... you may not be as excited to do it again soon :)
I have terribly hard domestic water supply. I find it makes two kinds of sclae: whitish stuff which fizzes if I put acid on it and easily disappears, and yellowish stuff which is much harder and doesn't seem to be affected by proprietary descalants. I am a physicist, not a chemist. I did take chemistry A level but have entirely forgotten it. I'm wondering if the thing you put in second - the base solution - is what I need to tackle the yellowish stuff?
Sadly I don't really know either. Bleach is very base, so if acid isn't working I would guess either stronger acid or strong base... It would have been better if I'd seen the inside of the engine!
Salt or brackish water cooling in a motor is murder. In your shoes, I'd replace it with a car radiator, distilled water, and 60 % prestone antifreeze. In my shoes, l'll be looking to outfit a sailboat with a tiny 168F air cooled diesel, that can create more electric than propulsion, run forever, save a lot of weight, and keep one water circuit out of the boat. The dry heated air is quite welcome.
Good Video! Great presentation.
Just a comment re: Winterizing Boat engines for Rich C.
I run anti-freeze through my raw water cooled engine until it's coming out blue or purple depending on temp range and manufacturer. Collect the AF that's been through the engine and pump it through the heads. Drain water tanks etc. I've had -35C with wind chill -50C in AK and N Finland.
Engine always started and ran fine. 2GM20.
My 2GM20 has 4361 hours from new and starts on the button every time.
Nothing but regular maintenance and 3 elbows (The cheap knockoffs) plus a bunch of bleed screws which tend to get weepy.
I bypassed the lift pump (wobble pump or butterfly depending on where you are) and installed low capacity electric pumps wired to the ignition. Key on pumps starts/key off pump quits (actually 2 in a mini wire dioded splitter for quick changeover) so bleeding is a non-event. I did this 4 years ago and swap the electric pumps over on my 100 hour checklist. both still put out 4.5 psi on a $7.00 radio shack gauge ...BTW - The engine quits if the mechanical lift pump dies on both GM engines.
The 1GM suffers from lift pump failures more than the 2GM but not if well filtered fuel with no diesel bug etc. On my previous boat I had a 1GM I bought second hand - with hours unknown for 200USD.
Got 2800 hrs or so out of it, but always polished fuel (10microns) between main tank and 22 liter day tank and used Prist in cold wx. Changed oil every 100 hours religiously.
Yanmar make good engines and the ones that die early have been murdered, it wasn't suicide ;-)
One other thing to watch...The gearboxes that come with the 1 or 2 GM are produced by Kanzaki (Subsidiary of Yanmar I think) and have a goofy yellow handled dipstick on the left side of gearbox. There is no high/low fill line.
Just one line right at the bottom and that's the high level limit.
The end of the stick is the low level fill line. It takes a standard beer can amount .03 to 0.33 litres after draining (you never get it all).
It just feels wrong with that goofy dipstick, but that's the way it works. Rest the dipstick on the fill hole rim to check but don't screw it in. I've used the beer can measure about 40 times and is the easiest way to be sure. You won't see the level as the dipstick is too shiny; so either rough it up with wet and dry or as I do, drain it out and use a beer can full to replenish it. You might have to drain and wipe out the beer can first. ;-)
Finally! Some manuals say use the same oil as the engine. some don't - but Yanmar France told me to use straight 30 weight oil in the gearbox. Do not trash the gearbox. The price of a new one will make your eyes water....
Final tip...The engineer in Yanmar France caught me out. I was bragging that my engines starts before I can get my finger off the button. He said an engine that takes 5 seconds to start is better because mine is up and running before any oil has circulated. I'd never heard of that before but it sorta makes sense.
Now I don't use the batteries crossover for engine start.
Just remembered: I take the water pump impeller out so it has a chance to relax and go back to normal shape. No point replacing it next year if it's all good.
Cheers...
That's all great knowledge and hard earned. Many thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome...
Great tips. I wish I read this before learning myself
The engine block drain you mention is not from the thermostat but from the block itself situated below the exhaust elbow and behind the fuel lift pump. It has a plastic knurled knob and often blocks so worth unscrewing and back flushing if it doesn’t drain easily. Important to drain the block when cold weather winterising the engine. I’ve used the vinegar trick regularly to clean my engines but didn’t realise the importance of neutralising it afterwards so thanks for that
To be honest I think neutralizing it is not mega important because the seawater will soon flush out the acid, but better safe than sorry. I didn't have that plastic knob on my engine, possibly different configurations exist.
@@drawingboard82 have a look under the fuel filter for a block shaped fitting screwed into the side of the block about level with the dip stick hole. It may or may not have a plastic pipe drain. That will drain the block and blocks with crud so unscrew it and clean it before back flushing.
I have rebuilt over 6 1gm and 1gm10s and the all had the drain there. It’s not that obvious and if you look at the manual the drain fitting line goes not to the thermostat but to the block itself but they drew it going behind the thermostat which is a rare bit of Japanese oversight 😂
I do this with 1 litre of brick acid in a builders bucket with freshwater (hydrochloric acid) every years otherwise it clogs up really badly. Missed 1 year and paid for it with an engine overheat warning as it was so clogged up. Run it up 1/2hr at a time for 3 or 4 times. The stuff in the bucket is pretty grimy by the end. Then I run it through with freshwater and then saltwater as normal.
Nice video! I'm based in Largs, and about to do the same with my 2GM. Quick question for you if you don't mind - where's the water coming from at 11:42? I wouldn't have expected to see this, since you're taking those hose from the thermostat out of the elbow, and sending it to the bucket? Thanks
Apologies.. just watched this again, and got it now - fresh water being supplemented down the discharge hose.
@@barrythomson5232 Good luck! Its really important to pump fresh water down the exhaust, otherwise the flexible connector will melt. Be careful to ensure the hose is connected securely or you'll have Carbon Monoxide in the cabin...
@@drawingboard82 Cheers for the reply - and thanks again for the advice.
Great video and very useful thanks. I have similar issues with my 1GM10 and the warning light is on. Hopefully this will work.
No one wants to overcomplicate any installation. That said, for the life of me, I can not wrap my mind around circulating seawater through an engine. I have seen many low-hour marinized engines corroded to a point where it would be pointless to attempt any rebuild or put the engine back into service after an inspection. There was simply nothing left to work with. The engine blocks and heads were corroded beyond salvation. These boats were put into the water for the warm season and at a slip in a marina. The engines were flushed with fresh water when the boat was hauled out for the winter. About ten years +or- of this did them in. I saw this over and over many times. My two cents worth, inter-cooling is the way to go if an operator plans to rebuild and not junk used engines. Yes, I do understand you have limited space on a small craft.
I agree. That said if the anodes are replaced frequently then the engine should last.
It definitely breaks traditional logic, to run water (Especially salt/ocean) through a metal engine... however, I just rebuilt my 1979 Yanmar raw (Salt/Ocean) water cooled engine in 2017 (38 years old) and the block was fine.
It seems if the anodes are replaced in time, every time, it simply is not a problem.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I assume the system, is just a simpler system. What I mean is that there is one system, rather than 2 systems where the same antifreeze or fresh water circulates the engine and an entirely other system circulates for raw water and a heat exchanger.
I thought the same, but my 2qm15 yanmar has been running since 1979 in the SF bay....with good zincs and a freshwater flush as I motor back into the marina. I draw fresh water from an onboard tank for the last +/- 5 min.
Please explain again what the yellow hose line was used for?
That's a hosepipe which is pumping water into the exhaust elbow to keep it cool
I did something similar, but removed the thermostat and pinched off the bypass and just ran fresh water thru the jacket
Hi mate, thanks for the video. I have the same engine and after watching this video I went to my boat and did the same set up as this but it wasn’t drawing any water from my bucket… did you use a 12v pump to pump the vinaigrette solution though or is your water pump on the engine doing all the work? I have a weak water flow from the stern of the boat so I thought I would try this.
When the engine is running via sea water it is pumping water but not as much as I think it should. But no draw at all from the bucket method..
Any advice would be great.
Thanks Phil, gosport uk
Hi Phil, thanks for the comment!
I did not use any additional pump to get water into the engine. If you removed the suction hose from the main inlet strainer, and placed it in the bucket, it should suck water from the bucket in the same way that it normally sucks water from the sea.
If this is not happening, its likely down to one of two things:
1: Your pump impeller is worn out and not pumping correctly (Most likely in my opinion)
2: Your entire pipework and internal engine passageways are so calced up that water isnt getting through (I doubt its that bad, if it was I suspect your engine wouldnt work.)
With the Yanmar 1GM10 series the water pump (Shown at this link www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/refurbishing-yanmar-1gm10-water-pump-44891) has a rubber inlet and outlet hose. You might have to remove the drive belt pully to see this properly but this is fairly straightforward. So to check the pumps function you could remove the outlet hose from the pump and turn the engine over on the starter motor with the decompressor (Manual shutdown) leaver rased. If it sucks water through then the rest of the engine is gunked up. If it doesnt, then the pump (Or the pipe leading to it) is the problem.
If its the pump, the most likely issue is a worn impeller. I have had widely varying accounts of how long impellers last. I changed mine every couple of years but in practice it didnt need it. In other waters, it might. Any chandler will have spare impellers and they are easy to replace. Its probably worth doing it if you havent for a while.
Whilst you are at it I reccomend changing the engine sacrificial anode. It wasnt in my manual for some reason, and by the time I realised it existed it had completely disintigrated.
If the engine is entirly gunked up then the only thing I can suggest is trying to force a solution through it with an external pump. Hopefully it wont come to that.
Happy to help further. If you like drop me an email on oliverepsom@gmail.com.
Best regards
@@drawingboard82 thanks so much for the detailed reply. I will be down the boat on Saturday to do what you have recommended. I will keep you posted.. kind regards Phil
great video. Nothing like an engineer talking about engines. Any idea where I can get a pdf file for that "old" 1GM manual with the detailed drawings of the cooling systems? I have the newer version only.
Thanks very much for this excellent clear explanation and very nice demo. I'm about to do it on m'y 1gm10. I juste have a question (just to make sure I do it right) : is it actually Bleach that the chemist recommand as a base solution ? No fear of toxic fumes due to the chemical reaction with the vinagar ?
Many thanks for your answer,
Denys
It was indeed bleach. But obviously keep everything well ventilated. A bigger fume risk is exhaust entering the cabin so make sure the hosepipe is rigged and running otherwise you risk a trip to the promised land.
@@drawingboard82 Many thanks ! And do you reckon well melt baking soda could bé a good Idea ? Many thanks in advance !
Thank you for that. I'm a new sailor and have been on Lake Chelan here in Washington state. I haven't been in a tide or current that will be in Puget sound. My question is how well do these 1gm10 perform in a current? Is there sufficient thrust to motor into a current? Is there an equation to calculate the thrust needed or a rule of thumb?
You're welcome. It all depends on how big and what type of boat you have. My boat was 27 feet, about 2000kg, and would go six knots flat out under power. I am not familiar with the tidal streams in Puget sound but in general I think you should be able to handle them, perhaps with a bit of common sense about tidal times etc. Right nice for example I'm sailing through gonna sound, between coll and tiree in Scotland against a three knot tide without difficulty
@@drawingboard82 Thank You again my boat is also 27' and 5000 lbs. I gathered from your info that a 3 knot tide is comfortable. That is a good rule, surprised somehow I was not able to see that as my boat also cruises at 6 knots.
@@timothyarmstrong5987 No worries. Happy sailing. Just take your time, be cautious and build up your skills and experience. I highly recommend a good anchor. A Knox is perfect. It gives you the opportunity to pause if you need a break. I was as nervous as hell when I got my boat. Didn't have a clue. But you get better.
Thanks very good video,I have a 1GM.all the best..
I just got this model 4 month back last week I got hot and the sensor cut in and I switched of I switch on to moor on a swing for there was no way back in due to tide no issue but after 10 mins sensor sounded but I was moored for the night after sailing the next day coming in I lost wind I run the engine three quarters and appeared fine for 15 to 20 mins no issue now in my berth I will be running maintance to sort this . How did that glove filter set up ? I understood the hose water feed to the out pipe which pushes fumes and the close system to flush the engine . Also I saw a hairline crack on my engine in what looks like the cover in the front of the engine with out close inspection I think it is on the housing its under the yellow oil cap would this affect the engine there is no leak of oil and it is not in the block it appears, can I replace this as I think it just looks like a cover it`s if cracked may have come from vibration ? Any other thing I can check , which are not the routine like the strainer or sea cock impeller . I will not be attempting the procedure yet but will be on board this Thursday to identify all the things in your video and organise that hose to insure safety and next visit flush . Thank you for you help . Just parted with a 10 HP Sabb 1964 different world and time, raw water straight through crude and forgiving . This 1gm 10 appears good but less forgiving and I am learning it and grateful for you expertise I am not a mechanic but have a good basic knowledge probably enough to own a boat !!! Any help apricated Jeremy
Very sorry, I just saw this. The youtube comments machine seems to be confused! I found the 1GM10 to be a very reliable and tough engine, and most of its shortcommings - slow response, difficult to start cold, noisy and vibrational - were due to its simplicity - Indirect injection swirl chamber, single cylinder. It was certianly a big improvement over the Renault I had before and the only real complaint I have is the price of spairs.
Thank you for your tutorial on the Yanmar 1GM10 , I have a fault on my cooling system .After changing the impeller and thermostat it runs perfect .But every so often if I raise the throttle to fast it appears to get an air lock. The water in the pipe above the thermostat housing appears hotter less water is pushed out astern causing the alarm there is an anti sython valve above that pipe which then goes to the exhaust elbow . I see that on your boat you do not have this set up ,your pipe goes straight to the elbow .Do the thinK this may be a route of my problem and pehapes I by pass this value and connect the pipe straight to the elbow junction (this sython value must be is there for a reason ) to avoid this occasional problem ? If is starts in the first place to run cool the engine can go there after at the right temperature but it may just warn up from go to hot or if I speed up the throttle to quickly . It happens approx one time in five. Any advice will be highly appreciated Thank you
Have u checked the seacock for obstructions? Close the seacock valve, disconect the hose, than open the valve to check the sea water flow. Also check the filter basket for air leaking.
@@ww07ff Thank you for your replay since I have corrected the issue it was an obstruction in the exhaust elbow which I cured it with a good soaking in a diluted brick acid mixture once off after inspection and the elbow still fit for use by not being to corroded. I have also set up the plumbing to carry out your decarb. method for the flushing of the block and await a slot, but have been grabbing as much time out sailing to end of this summer. Thank you for you help.
What brand of bleach did you use for the final cleaning, chlorine bleach or?
Nice video, v.informative, was working on mine today.
The t piece on the front of the engine on a 1 gm normally blocks and replace the steel exhaust elbow with a stainless one it’s a very common fault…marine engineer ⛵🇬🇧
I have the same engine. My current project is attempting to add a tachometer. Have you done this? If so, any tips?
I have not, but it should be fairly simple. There are various approaches, a nice way would be to measure the ripple on the alternator voltage.
@@drawingboard82 It would make a good video if you would like to put it together! I have struggled to find any good video help on this.
@@daveskye sadly I no longer own the boat, but I like the idea.
Interesting Vid. Did you get better water flow / consider using a stronger acid? Dangar Marine did a similar test with an outboard
I upped the concentration of acid a few times. To be honest I'm not convinced the inside was that bad to begin with, but this gives peace of mind. Could use a (very expensive) central heating cleaner for a potentially better result.
Hi, I saw your video and thank you for your help. I'm about to do it so It will help me a lot. It's har for me to understand all your explanation and I lost some points (I have an survival english). My questions are:
The yellow pipe is for the combustion gases right?
Why this pipe has a key?
Could you tell me any example of household bleach brand?
(I will try to find it in Barcelona).
Did you do 2 times 50 minutes each?
Thank you!
The yellow pipe is a water pipe that pumps water into the exhaust. The "key" on the yellow pipe is a valve to turn the water on and off. Any bleach will work. And run it for as long as you like. Good luck 😊
@@drawingboard82 Hi, this is a really very well done video. I also like the theory part at the begin. I've the same problema and I'm going to implement your method. I still didn't understood how the yellow pipe works. You wrote it is a water supply connected to the exaust. So you put water into the exaust. How do you manage to bring exaust gas out of the boat? Really don't understand. And I also don't understand why do you need this yellow pipe. Why not to put just a pipe connected to the exausts? And have some more water ready to reduce the temperature of the bucket?
Thanks a lot for your time.
@@GiuseppeLucisano hi guiseppi thanks for the comment, glad you enjoy it.
Usually the engine pulls in water from the sea and pumps it out the exhaust line. This cools the exhaust. Most of the exhaust is a rubber hose. If there is no water mixed with the hot exhaust gas the exhaust pipe would melt or catch fire. Worse, if you don't have the yellow hose connected to the exhaust line then exhaust will come out if the hole the yellow hose is attached to and suffocate you.
The yellow hose contains fresh water which when piped into the exhaust does the same job that seawater usually does.
It is probably the most important thing to do.
Be safe and if you have any further questions please ask. Because if you get it wrong you might poisen yourself.
@@drawingboard82 ok, so the yellow pipe bring fresh water in the exhaust hose but it a discontinuous flow managed by the red valve. Right? Wich is an indicative % of open valve and % of closed valve? How long does the cleaning process takes to you? 15 minutes right?
@@GiuseppeLucisano just leave the red valve open when the engine is running :-) around 25 minutes should be enough but make sure the engine is warm otherwise the thermostat will divert the cleaner around the engine.
where can I buy a hand crank for my Yanmar 9 hp GM10 diesel engine
They are difficult to find. Yanmar will sell you one for about £100. Otherwise eBay!
109 quid on e- bay, of try to borrow one and get a blacksmith to make one, they are extremely difficult to crankstart tho, I tried on mine earlier today.
Hi!! was missing new videos from your channel!! I don't have any experience with this concrete engine... but it seems to me, due to the knocking noise and vibration, that a crankshaft bearing needs some service. keep an eye on the oil pressure!! Maybe this engine has this knocking behavior as standard....I don't know, hope yes!!. Cheers!!!
Thanks Adrian, appreciate that. I have stuck my head around other 1gm10s and they sound similar to me but no harm in me taking a look over the winter, though I'll have to pull the engine! Not experienced any oil pressure issues but again it's worth keeping my eye on!
It's a single cylinder diesel. They all sound like that and rock back & forth especially at low revs.
Yes Andy and Drawing Board, I was actually going to "not buy a specific boat" due to that noise, but the marine surveyor said very literally; "Oh no, that's why they call them the Yammer-Hammer" - the Yanmars are known for this banging.
Maybe other brands are also, but this is certainly the case with every Yanmar that I ever saw... or heard.
Count on me if you need anti vibration mounts.
Very useful. Many thanks!
Hi would you mind telling me how you drain the fresh water from it over the winter. I can’t find a drainage point in my manual. Many thanks
Good question. There isn't one! If you're worried about it freezing, best thing to do is remove the rubber hose from the water pump outlet. That will let any water in tge inside drain out. I like to flush it with fresh water first using the method shown in this video, with water instead of cleaner. These engines are pretty tough and well made so I think frost damage is unlikely even if they are not drained.
drawingboard82 thanks mate, I thought I was missing something!!! I’ve taken the impeller plate off and removed the impeller which let a bit of water out?
@@richcastle6796 no worries! That should do it. Whereabouts do you live and how cold does it get?
drawingboard82 I’m in the midlands, on the river Avon. Out the water at moment. I’d not think it gets much below -5/8ish
@@richcastle6796 you should be fine. I'm in Scotland and never had an issue!
have you ever rebuilt this engine. i am really tempted to do my 1gm. also have you much experience with wiring? ta muchly
Not rebuilt it, only general servicing as its essentially a new engine. I think they are simple to rebuild but the parts cost a fortune.
@@drawingboard82 Thanks for the reply. I have a 1 GM 000830 model, very old and still works. I also have a slightly newer one which has seized but has all the other parts in pretty mint condition. i am hoping to swap over the best bits but i am unsure on how far to go..I also want to hook up the original wiring harness.. but i cannot find any vids about the subject. I am hoping to be motoring around Shetland in the coming summer on a 17 foot oyster style cuddy boat which is also being rebuilt. i can send you some pics for the crack if interested.
@@dprkassassin1876 I know that you didn't ask me, but I think there are tolerances to be aware of and I mean to answer your question this way;
1. There are external / removable parts to consider (Injectors and high pressure pump, etcetera. Things that "unbolt from the outside) - consider that separate for a minute, they mostly have to com e off for a "rebuild anyway"
2. There is a "top end rebuild" and tolerances for rings, connecting rods, etcetera...
3. There is a full rebuild, or maybe if you exclude 1 and 2 above, think of this 3rd as a "bottom end rebuild" and tolerances on crank shaft bearings matter. It is also more work...
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Trying to answer your question, "how far to go" is best answered if you or someone can figure out bottom end (i.e. crank shaft) tolerances.
If they're out of range, you're best working, 2 and 3.
If they're fine, you're best going "as far as 2 only."
If you're doing all this much work, ripping apart and such, do the most you can do because after it's apart and you're working on it... you may not be as excited to do it again soon :)
I have terribly hard domestic water supply. I find it makes two kinds of sclae: whitish stuff which fizzes if I put acid on it and easily disappears, and yellowish stuff which is much harder and doesn't seem to be affected by proprietary descalants. I am a physicist, not a chemist. I did take chemistry A level but have entirely forgotten it. I'm wondering if the thing you put in second - the base solution - is what I need to tackle the yellowish stuff?
Sadly I don't really know either. Bleach is very base, so if acid isn't working I would guess either stronger acid or strong base... It would have been better if I'd seen the inside of the engine!
I belive raw water cooling not ideal. I would prefer coolant with a heat exchanger arrangement.
Both systems have advantages and disadvantages.
Salt or brackish water cooling in a motor is murder. In your shoes, I'd replace it with a car radiator, distilled water, and 60 % prestone antifreeze. In my shoes, l'll be looking to outfit a sailboat with a tiny 168F air cooled diesel, that can create more electric than propulsion, run forever, save a lot of weight, and keep one water circuit out of the boat. The dry heated air is quite welcome.
What a waste of time!