@@thesailingdonkey Hi, At 24:13 you can see what looks like a crack just above the hand crank mechanism. I have exactly the same looking crack on mine and I have seen it on another youtubers video. I am wondering if it is a crack or just in the paintwork. Did you notice it? Cheers, Paul
Hi Paul. Good observation! I'm not at the boat tonight so can't have a closer inspection, however I suspect its a casting mark that hasn't been removed. I could be wrong... I'll have a closer look next time at boat
As soon as you realise the valve seats are too pitted to be ground out its a much better idea to take it along to a local engine machine shop; they will thoroughly clean the head and sort out the valve seats, replace valve stem seals and give u back a nice shiny cylinder head; cheaper than buying a new cylinder head. They can also comment on the general condition of it; flagging up up any more serious issues.
It's a fair comment! However in Guernsey it's not a cheap option to take it to a machine shop. Also it'd have made for a fairly dull (if it could get any more dull!) TH-cam video. After grinding it ended up being just a smidge out of spec, so I'm not too fussed. If the boat budget was a little larger then I'd be straight down the shop! :D
@@thesailingdonkey when you think how reliant one is on a reliable engine when sailing especially in your area and the Bristol Channel where I sail, you can't put a price on it...of course you have to. There are a few v good back street machine shops here in Cardiff. I imagine Guernsey is not so well endowed. Using that grinding machine u had barely any control over how much u ground out the seats. Horrifying lol.
@@nickspeller3372 yes it doesn't have any kind of built in dti so was very much a case of take a cut, measure, take a cut, measure. Yeah our only proper engine building machine shop closed down a few years ago. The tool being used was actually borrowed from the former owner of that shop
Yeah I spoke about how the previous anode, which had been in about 3 or 4 years, didn't appear to have degraded (although I didn't weigh it in fairness), and I was wondering whether it was doing anything. Ah I don't remember the bit with the starter motor, I was probably more lamenting the amount of wirebrushing that lay ahead haha. Although it didn't take that long really. I've had the Engine since I've had the boat, so since 2019. I assume it's been in the boat for at least a couple of decades prior to that but I have no record of that.
Why do they put a single mark that you pass, and then the double mark is 15deg btdc? Is it not more logical that the first mark is 15deg btdc and the second double mark is TDC itself. Or is the first mark an indication that your fuel timing mark is coming up?
You might actually have a very good point there! I'll have to go back and recheck the manual, this was a while ago! I think first mark is 15 BTDC and the "T" Mark is TDC.
@@thesailingdonkey As long as engine is running sweet lol. Yanmar procedure is to time it as it comes out the delivery valve that screws into IP. I always wondered if there is a difference between that point and the injector tip. I seem to land on different points on the flywheel, depending on my doing it like you did or taking it from delivery valve. Was your piston and rings ok? I thought you might have dropped the sump for a look? Problem is , the more you find, the spendier it gets lol. Hope the wee thing is running good for you.
@alexbowie6316, It certainly looks like it's 15 degrees if using the spray coming out of the injector, but I did use both methods throughout the course of the job so perhaps when I did it straight out of the high pressure pump it was timed properly? Not sure, but it's certainly starting much better than it did. As for how it runs, it seems to be running fine but perhaps there's more to be had. To advance it I'd need to remove the timing plates under the high pressure pump, maybe something to look at if I run out of other jobs haha!
Re the piston and rings. Couldn't verify the rings but the piston looked fine. I think I checked the bore for roundness and it was in tolerance so I left it at that for the bottom end. Mainly because I still had a lot of other work to do on the boat before getting it back in the water.
@@thesailingdonkey I have mine stripped on the bench now and can say that the double mark is TDC and single mark is 15 deg BTDC ie the fuel timing mark. I honestly think that you can find many things wrong with these engines on a strip down, but these things you find, mind not be the cause of the issue you have. They can run with with many issues, and then another thing crops up and stops them. Just learning them myself....... Old Donkeys lol.
I really don't understand why you don't give the head to a machine shop specialized on engine refurbishment. For my understanding the outlet valve seat needs to be machined and probably a new valve seat created. This usually doesn't cost the world. Very common work for these shops
Hi Jurgen, In short because I live in Guernsey, there are no machine shops dedicated to engine refurbishment, there used to be but not any more. There are of course machine shops that could do the work, but not at a price I'd be willing to pay. Guernsey's a captive market! But yes agreed it's not ideal.
Really liked the detail you went into with this, thanks for recording it all.
No worries, I'm glad you enjoyed it!
Thank goodness! At last! You have told me which way up the gasket goes. It's taken ages to find out!
I'm happy to have helped! What a faff trying to work that out! What with the workshop manual being incorrect. Crazy!
Excellent video. Will definitely be referring back to this in the future. Thanks for sharing.
All the best,
Paul.
Hi Paul, thanks for your lovely comment, I'm glad it's of use
@@thesailingdonkey Hi, At 24:13 you can see what looks like a crack just above the hand crank mechanism. I have exactly the same looking crack on mine and I have seen it on another youtubers video. I am wondering if it is a crack or just in the paintwork. Did you notice it?
Cheers,
Paul
Hi Paul. Good observation! I'm not at the boat tonight so can't have a closer inspection, however I suspect its a casting mark that hasn't been removed. I could be wrong... I'll have a closer look next time at boat
A fountain of knowledge. What a great video! This will help me immensely in my keeping up with my engine. Thank you!
Thanks Jazzman! I'm glad it's useful :)
Great video. Love the detail
Thanks Alan!
Great stuff Matt, and I'll know who to borrow tools from when I need to do mine!
Haha! Feel free to reach out for any info/tools for engine work 👍
Funny and informative. Thanks.
Thanks mate 👍
As soon as you realise the valve seats are too pitted to be ground out its a much better idea to take it along to a local engine machine shop; they will thoroughly clean the head and sort out the valve seats, replace valve stem seals and give u back a nice shiny cylinder head; cheaper than buying a new cylinder head. They can also comment on the general condition of it; flagging up up any more serious issues.
It's a fair comment! However in Guernsey it's not a cheap option to take it to a machine shop. Also it'd have made for a fairly dull (if it could get any more dull!) TH-cam video. After grinding it ended up being just a smidge out of spec, so I'm not too fussed. If the boat budget was a little larger then I'd be straight down the shop! :D
@@thesailingdonkey when you think how reliant one is on a reliable engine when sailing especially in your area and the Bristol Channel where I sail, you can't put a price on it...of course you have to. There are a few v good back street machine shops here in Cardiff. I imagine Guernsey is not so well endowed. Using that grinding machine u had barely any control over how much u ground out the seats. Horrifying lol.
@@nickspeller3372 yes it doesn't have any kind of built in dti so was very much a case of take a cut, measure, take a cut, measure. Yeah our only proper engine building machine shop closed down a few years ago. The tool being used was actually borrowed from the former owner of that shop
Did you mention the anode? You sounded horrified when u removed the starter motor yet all that rust is superficial...how long had you had that engine.
Yeah I spoke about how the previous anode, which had been in about 3 or 4 years, didn't appear to have degraded (although I didn't weigh it in fairness), and I was wondering whether it was doing anything. Ah I don't remember the bit with the starter motor, I was probably more lamenting the amount of wirebrushing that lay ahead haha. Although it didn't take that long really. I've had the Engine since I've had the boat, so since 2019. I assume it's been in the boat for at least a couple of decades prior to that but I have no record of that.
Why do they put a single mark that you pass, and then the double mark is 15deg btdc? Is it not more logical that the first mark is 15deg btdc and the second double mark is TDC itself. Or is the first mark an indication that your fuel timing mark is coming up?
You might actually have a very good point there! I'll have to go back and recheck the manual, this was a while ago! I think first mark is 15 BTDC and the "T" Mark is TDC.
@@thesailingdonkey As long as engine is running sweet lol. Yanmar procedure is to time it as it comes out the delivery valve that screws into IP. I always wondered if there is a difference between that point and the injector tip. I seem to land on different points on the flywheel, depending on my doing it like you did or taking it from delivery valve. Was your piston and rings ok? I thought you might have dropped the sump for a look?
Problem is , the more you find, the spendier it gets lol. Hope the wee thing is running good for you.
@alexbowie6316, It certainly looks like it's 15 degrees if using the spray coming out of the injector, but I did use both methods throughout the course of the job so perhaps when I did it straight out of the high pressure pump it was timed properly? Not sure, but it's certainly starting much better than it did. As for how it runs, it seems to be running fine but perhaps there's more to be had. To advance it I'd need to remove the timing plates under the high pressure pump, maybe something to look at if I run out of other jobs haha!
Re the piston and rings. Couldn't verify the rings but the piston looked fine. I think I checked the bore for roundness and it was in tolerance so I left it at that for the bottom end. Mainly because I still had a lot of other work to do on the boat before getting it back in the water.
@@thesailingdonkey I have mine stripped on the bench now and can say that the double mark is TDC and single mark is 15 deg BTDC ie the fuel timing mark. I honestly think that you can find many things wrong with these engines on a strip down, but these things you find, mind not be the cause of the issue you have. They can run with with many issues, and then another thing crops up and stops them. Just learning them myself....... Old Donkeys lol.
I really don't understand why you don't give the head to a machine shop specialized on engine refurbishment.
For my understanding the outlet valve seat needs to be machined and probably a new valve seat created.
This usually doesn't cost the world.
Very common work for these shops
Hi Jurgen, In short because I live in Guernsey, there are no machine shops dedicated to engine refurbishment, there used to be but not any more. There are of course machine shops that could do the work, but not at a price I'd be willing to pay. Guernsey's a captive market! But yes agreed it's not ideal.