Diff and hub carriers are raw metal and were not painted when stock, so seemed a little pointless to strip & paint. Not going for perfection, I want it to be usable without worrying about keeping it immaculate.
Glad I found your video! Assembling the control arms and subframe then lifting to install didn't cross my mind haha (i'll still put the diff in after since im waiting on parts) :) Good video!
The Japanese really do build their subframes like they anticipate them surviving a war, even if the rest of the car doesn't. Got to respect their efforts to ensure reliability.
I tend to go with the good-n-tight rule of thumb for torque, unless it's something with a really high torque rating (like hub nuts or crank bolts) or a really low torque rating (like valve cover bolts)
Re: using Persil is great as a lubricant for the installing bushes but it contains salts (for cleaning purposes). Probably best using another form of lube given this will be in direct contact with bare metal once wirebrushed.
Thanks I really enjoyed watching. I though I might to have given this a try but it is beyond by reach for now. Could you have taken off the rear sub frame in one like you put it back on ??
Thanks Graham. If the subframe rusts, it can start casing structural issues after a while, but if the diff rusts, it makes no difference. Paint would flake off after a while, so I don't see the point.
@@Jazda for sure your videos will be helpfull on some points :) And so will be my 950nm impact gun for working on the suspension 😅 Can't wait to see your v6 miata running.
@@paulaner4514 You got a DeWalt DCF899? Same torque rating so I imagine so. I got one two and was just thinking how great it'd be for (most of) the removal of many of these bolts.
@@leejk3926 Yes that's the one i have ! I just bought it at the time of my previous comment, and so far nothing never got stronger than it on any of the work i've done in my cars ;) Very good impact gun
Very informative video can I ask what's the best way to set up the suspension arm when you put them back on ? Before I can drive it to get the tracking done thanks Alastair
Just take note of where the camber bolts and track rod ends are set up before you take everything off, and put it back the same. That way you won't be far off and it'll be safe to drive to an alignment shop.
I thought it was odd that you bothered to get all the wishbones and subframes blasted and painted and didn't even bother giving the half-shafts and diff a quick spray paint. It would have really complimented the job, could have been done while waiting for the parts. Also missed opportunity to underseal the car without the subframe there. Anyway, excited to see the end result.
I guess I was more interested in sprucing up the parts that can get rusted through and causing structural problems. The diff, halfshafts and uprights can get as rusty/grubby as they want and will always be strong.
Great video. I am just about to get started in my 91. I have read that the wishbones etc must be torqued with the car on its wheels when using rubber bushings (oem or MS) did you do this?
Thanks for the great vids on your project. Have you considered or talked to others about what diff ratio might best suit the AJ30? Presume that’s an LSD or one is planned ;). Cheers from Oz
I upgraded my open diff to a torsen LSD a couple of years ago, so using this with the V6. I checked with Bruce at Rocketeer that it would be OK, and he gave me the go ahead. I guess I won't know for sure until it's back on the road!
Did you buy the reconditioned subframe parts as a kit, or send someone a set of bits you collected yourself to be done? Would you mind saying who did the reconditioning please?
I took my time and enjoyed the process, so wasn't in a rush. I also changed all the bushings, so it would depend what exactly you're changing. If you just removing and refitting, it would only take half a day I guess.
As far as I remember, I paid €500 for a full set of powder coated wishbones (x8), rear subframe (I didn't need the front sunframe), 2 anti roll bars, 4 new balljoints, and most of the bolts required to fit (newly anodised)
@@Jazda Thanks, I just bought a mk3 with the big ends gone so need to rebuild the engine but when I got it on a ramp the front and rear subframe are badly rusted and can’t find anywhere online that you can buy replacements.
Priorities I guess. Rusty subframes or suspension arms will eventually cause issues if you leave them rot long enough, but corrosion on the outside of the diff casing doesn't cause problems. The coilovers are only a year or 2 old so just gave the anodised surfaces a reoil to keep them clean.
That’s so cool you assembled it all and the lifted it into place. Miatas are so cool.
Very informative video. I was confused why you didn't clean up the diff. And rear hub carriers and paint them. Everything else looks so awesome.
Diff and hub carriers are raw metal and were not painted when stock, so seemed a little pointless to strip & paint. Not going for perfection, I want it to be usable without worrying about keeping it immaculate.
gotta admit I am triggered a little too....needs some POR15 on the non aluminum stuff
you cant beat copper slip when you put things back together it really works a treat.
Very good, nice to see a bit of copper slip being used .
Thank you for publishing this. I appreciate the music too!
Thank you for this video. Going to do this over the weekend.
Glad I found your video! Assembling the control arms and subframe then lifting to install didn't cross my mind haha (i'll still put the diff in after since im waiting on parts) :) Good video!
Brilliant. Thank you for sharing and spending the time for us
Fair play very informative video the voice over works a treat you make it all look very easy!👍
There was nothing hard about it, it's just time consuming. Those long bolts did try my patience though 😳
The Japanese really do build their subframes like they anticipate them surviving a war, even if the rest of the car doesn't. Got to respect their efforts to ensure reliability.
not when you compare them something on a truck frame. when i made the jump from trucks to miatas i was pretty shocked how fragile it all was
@@steelwitnessso you thought a miata’s subframe would be as strong as a truck…?
ive been contemplating changing my bushes too but couldnt decide to go oem or superpro.
Excellent video Mate. Thank you
Very soothing music 🎶 😌
I really love this video. I plan to do the same with my ‘95. I was just wondering where you were able to find your torques.
I tend to go with the good-n-tight rule of thumb for torque, unless it's something with a really high torque rating (like hub nuts or crank bolts) or a really low torque rating (like valve cover bolts)
Re: using Persil is great as a lubricant for the installing bushes but it contains salts (for cleaning purposes). Probably best using another form of lube given this will be in direct contact with bare metal once wirebrushed.
Makes sense
You have some incredible knowledge 👍 the piano music is perfect 👌where did you study for your automotive abilities ?
Learned through doing. No training.
Damn friend your video is super good🤛🤛
thank you so much for this video !!!!
0:20 GOOD GRIEF!!! R.I.P., headphone users. 😒
This was one of my earliest videos. Hopefully they are a little better now 🙈
As usual, very nice and detailed video! Can't wait for the upcomming ones :)
Thanks I really enjoyed watching. I though I might to have given this a try but it is beyond by reach for now.
Could you have taken off the rear sub frame in one like you put it back on ??
Yep. It's all do-able with the right tools and breaker bars. Not complicated. Give it a go, you might surprise yourself!
Great vid mate! How many hours do you think thus would take a garage to do if they were supplied with all the parts and no bushings to replace?
No idea mate. I'm an amateur, not a mechanic, and I was taking my time.
Strangely relaxing video! Nice work on the car. It seemed a shame to attach the diff back to the subframe without hitting it with a bit paint!
Thanks Graham. If the subframe rusts, it can start casing structural issues after a while, but if the diff rusts, it makes no difference. Paint would flake off after a while, so I don't see the point.
@@Jazda fair one! Keep up the good work
That miata is going to be mint :D
Same work on mine (swap, bushings, diff) this year if anything goes well :)
Good luck with it. Hopefully my video will be of some help :)
@@Jazda for sure your videos will be helpfull on some points :)
And so will be my 950nm impact gun for working on the suspension 😅
Can't wait to see your v6 miata running.
@@paulaner4514 You got a DeWalt DCF899? Same torque rating so I imagine so. I got one two and was just thinking how great it'd be for (most of) the removal of many of these bolts.
@@leejk3926 Yes that's the one i have !
I just bought it at the time of my previous comment, and so far nothing never got stronger than it on any of the work i've done in my cars ;)
Very good impact gun
Very informative video can I ask what's the best way to set up the suspension arm when you put them back on ? Before I can drive it to get the tracking done thanks Alastair
Just take note of where the camber bolts and track rod ends are set up before you take everything off, and put it back the same. That way you won't be far off and it'll be safe to drive to an alignment shop.
@@Jazda unfortunately we got the car with all the running gear off the car 😂
😟
Great video! However I did almost stop watching when I saw you drove a Prius! 🤣
Every Ying needs a Yang 😉
Your doing great pal... Ready for summer 2019??
Not sure. Summer is fast approaching!
Great Video! Where did you get the replacement hardware (bolts etc.. )
They were dipped and re-zinced. So refurbished, not new.
Looks like new, great job!@@Jazda
I thought it was odd that you bothered to get all the wishbones and subframes blasted and painted and didn't even bother giving the half-shafts and diff a quick spray paint. It would have really complimented the job, could have been done while waiting for the parts. Also missed opportunity to underseal the car without the subframe there. Anyway, excited to see the end result.
I guess I was more interested in sprucing up the parts that can get rusted through and causing structural problems. The diff, halfshafts and uprights can get as rusty/grubby as they want and will always be strong.
Great video. I am just about to get started in my 91. I have read that the wishbones etc must be torqued with the car on its wheels when using rubber bushings (oem or MS) did you do this?
Yeah, I did it off camera as it's hard to film. Best if you can put the tyres on a stack of planks or something similar so you can have more access.
@@Jazda luck for me I have a pit so hopefully that will work out. Great video and I really appreciated the music…refreshing and peaceful buddy 👍😎
Thanks for the kind words ♥️
Lol I have the same exact two cars. Mx5 and prius. Both very reliable
Both long gone now I'm afraid. I've got a Suzuki Swift Sport now!
Thanks for the great vids on your project. Have you considered or talked to others about what diff ratio might best suit the AJ30? Presume that’s an LSD or one is planned ;). Cheers from Oz
I upgraded my open diff to a torsen LSD a couple of years ago, so using this with the V6. I checked with Bruce at Rocketeer that it would be OK, and he gave me the go ahead. I guess I won't know for sure until it's back on the road!
Great video is it possible to remove it in one piece like you put it back in the car as one piece?
Yes.
Nice video! I'm completely baffled by the choice of music though.
There's limited choices when you can only pick from TH-cam license free music 😂
Did you buy the reconditioned subframe parts as a kit, or send someone a set of bits you collected yourself to be done? Would you mind saying who did the reconditioning please?
There's a guy in Dublin called Robert that breaks MX5's and also sells reconditioned subframes and wishbones.
@@Jazda Many thanks. Great work by the way and very good, clear videoa.
Where did you get all the zinc bolts from?
There's a guy in Dublin that breaks MX5's and he also offers a service for powdercoating and zinc plating (he outsources it, but not sure where from).
Great video, how many hours would you say it took to remove and refit?
I took my time and enjoyed the process, so wasn't in a rush. I also changed all the bushings, so it would depend what exactly you're changing. If you just removing and refitting, it would only take half a day I guess.
@@Jazda Thanks, I've just had my 5 fail its MOT on this part and debating to save or scrap.
Subframe is a hell of a lot easier to swap over than if you had rust on your arches or sills, so I'd say SAVE! 😉
How much effort should it take to remove the half shafts? I cannot pry them out!
Pry bar worked for me. They were easy enough to get out but trickier to install.
Why wouldnt tou flip the subframe upside Down and then mount the diff?
Dunno. Made sense at the time 😂
It messes rubber up as well!
How do you work on cars but havent used a torch before
I've bought one since. Thanks for your concern 😂
Where did you get your bushes from if you don’t mind saying?
MX5Parts.co.uk
Where did you buy all the new bolts?
Some were refurbished and rezinc plated, and others were bought new from MX5parts.co.uk
Where can i but the damping adjuster extension for the meisters?
www.meisterr.co.uk/products/damper-adjustment-extension-cable-pair/
@@Jazda Thanks!
How much roughly did you pay for the reconditioned subframe??
As far as I remember, I paid €500 for a full set of powder coated wishbones (x8), rear subframe (I didn't need the front sunframe), 2 anti roll bars, 4 new balljoints, and most of the bolts required to fit (newly anodised)
Where i can buy new bolts etc.
Here: www.mx5parts.co.uk/suspension-arms-fittings-c-376_70_462.html
Where did you locate the reconditioned subframe and parts from?
Robert Maguire - 086 822 6506
Is that you contact?
@@daveoneill5449 - no, he's a guy that breaks MX5's and sells parts. Based in Swords.
@@Jazda Thanks, I just bought a mk3 with the big ends gone so need to rebuild the engine but when I got it on a ramp the front and rear subframe are badly rusted and can’t find anywhere online that you can buy replacements.
He doesn't do much or any mk3 stuff, but if you gave him the subframes he could get them stripped and coated for you.
Ahhhh! Washing up liquid! No way. Red rubber molybdenum grease dude!
Are the rear subframes the same for mk1 and mk2?
No. They are VERY similar but not identical. I think Car Passion channel did a video on the differences.
I wish you torqued everything lol
Old video so u may have fixed it but during editing could you try an make the volume of your into closer to the volume of the rest of the video
Clean up the diff?
Nope. What's the point?
Jazda: so it looks nice ... same reason you swapped out your subframe for a shiny one ! Looks great though
Could of cleaned the diff and rest of suspension before putting it back in.
Priorities I guess. Rusty subframes or suspension arms will eventually cause issues if you leave them rot long enough, but corrosion on the outside of the diff casing doesn't cause problems. The coilovers are only a year or 2 old so just gave the anodised surfaces a reoil to keep them clean.
copperpaste everywhere?
Yep. Put it on my sandwiches too.
Video was great but the music got me feeling....
what's with the depressing music and the need to show trip to the hardware store?
You can choose what music you use when you make YOUR own videos. Thanks.