I'm just starting to work on restoring my 1924 TT. All 4 tires of mine are dry rotted, have zero flexibility left in them. Beads are torn open on one side on two of them. Being a truck, it uses the size your working on, as fronts, rear tires are 33x5. It looks like there's just a slight drop center on the rim, that makes me believe you want to break the bead on both sides first. When I do conventional auto tires, tubeless, I spray window cleaner or dishwashing soap to reduce the chance of taking a bite from the tire bead (if doing flat repair), but it makes it easier to remove them. The down side using tire lubes, they are water based, and that water stays in the tire after airing it up. And that will corrode stuff. Talc would be a good thing to dust inside the tire carcass. I agree with the flap, it protects the tube from being pinched by your tire iron. That valve is called a Schrader valve. They make a valve stem fishing tool, that can be a small chain or cable attached to what looks like a valve cap, that screws onto the innertube stem. That lets you pull the inner tube stem back through the hole, should you not install them the way you did, by being careful and attempting alignment. You have no lube dry or wet, and the Pour40 stuff is sticky on your new rubber. With bike tires I've always slide the tire relative to the tube, as that will cut and shear it off when aired up. Here in Iowa, the land fill charges $6/tire. I cut them into 4 quarters, stack them, and place in black plastic garbage sack. The land fill has to pay to have them hauled away. Did your 1923, originally come with silver painted rims? Curious how much you paid for the on sale tires from Lucas? Thanks for the video, cuss words didn't bother me a bit, as I use them to keep me from using a sledge hammer and "strike any key when ready".
Hello. My car had silver pained rims when I bought it, so I decided it keep it that way. I checked my invoice from Lucas and it shows $716 for the four tires. The four tubes were $72 and the flaps were $136. I just checked the Lucas website and they're the same price (regular price, over a year later), so it looks like I was hoodwinked into thinking they were on sale. One thing that this video doesn't show is that I was sore for 3 days after I did this job. There is no way that this job could have been completed using the "garbage bag" trick that some people mention. Interestingly, I replaced the tires on my '31 Model A and the job was much less difficult. Much less. The Model T tires grip the rims with much more force than the Model A.
@@flawrence11 I took all four rims off my truck yesterday after watching your video. The first rear tire I used a reciprocating saw, as the rubber was to hard to flex. And I found the steel wire they use around the bead, to be corroded to where it would just tear to pieces. On a truck the rear tires are larger then the front. They are 23x5, a bit harder to find. And the flaps are not typically carried. I did find they are on backorder at Coker tire. The truck used all blackwalls. They used to have knobby tread pattern, but now only passenger treads are being reproduced. That's OK. But I want to get the running gear in proper order, as well and engine, before I tackle the "C" cab. I don't know what the farmer that owned this truck pre 1970 hauled in the bed, but it corroded all the bottom sheet metal off, as wheel the rear sheetmetal of the cab, and I have no idea how it is bolted to the frames as that's all gone. I purchased the truck from my neighbor, and moved it here back in 1984, and it's been stored waiting for a larger space to put it in. This I had built last summer, so it just got moved into the new garage last week. At age 67, I'm running out of time to restore this. I'm surprised there are so many businesses that are selling parts, as I would think the unrestored Model T market would be dried up by now. I better hurry, as that can change.
You should NEVER air up the tire on a rim that is not secured!!! The easy way to secure it is to mount the rim on the car then air it up. This is especially ture with the clinchers because you need to over infalte the tire to seat the beads. I learned about this when I was airing up a couple of tires that I had just mounted when the rim separated from the tire. Luckily I was not killed or injured!! The rim was launched high into the air coming down about 20 or 30 feet away !! This was about 4 years ago and the tire and rim are still running perfectly . If you check tire inflating procedures you will be warned and instructed to use only a lockable air nozzle to the stem as well. I guess the reason I was lucky is that I was changing these tires for a friend .. My '12 has nondemountables.
Your culture invented the word (UK). Fornication Under Carnal Knowledge. It's a legal term. But being single syllable, easy to yell, and for some reason is now the major word of choice when dealing with irritating people and things. And I've heard it on many YT channels. You must be watching holy roller channels.
I'm just starting to work on restoring my 1924 TT. All 4 tires of mine are dry rotted, have zero flexibility left in them. Beads are torn open on one side on two of them. Being a truck, it uses the size your working on, as fronts, rear tires are 33x5.
It looks like there's just a slight drop center on the rim, that makes me believe you want to break the bead on both sides first.
When I do conventional auto tires, tubeless, I spray window cleaner or dishwashing soap to reduce the chance of taking a bite from the tire bead (if doing flat repair), but it makes it easier to remove them. The down side using tire lubes, they are water based, and that water stays in the tire after airing it up. And that will corrode stuff. Talc would be a good thing to dust inside the tire carcass.
I agree with the flap, it protects the tube from being pinched by your tire iron.
That valve is called a Schrader valve. They make a valve stem fishing tool, that can be a small chain or cable attached to what looks like a valve cap, that screws onto the innertube stem. That lets you pull the inner tube stem back through the hole, should you not install them the way you did, by being careful and attempting alignment. You have no lube dry or wet, and the Pour40 stuff is sticky on your new rubber. With bike tires I've always slide the tire relative to the tube, as that will cut and shear it off when aired up.
Here in Iowa, the land fill charges $6/tire. I cut them into 4 quarters, stack them, and place in black plastic garbage sack. The land fill has to pay to have them hauled away.
Did your 1923, originally come with silver painted rims? Curious how much you paid for the on sale tires from Lucas?
Thanks for the video, cuss words didn't bother me a bit, as I use them to keep me from using a sledge hammer and "strike any key when ready".
Hello. My car had silver pained rims when I bought it, so I decided it keep it that way. I checked my invoice from Lucas and it shows $716 for the four tires. The four tubes were $72 and the flaps were $136. I just checked the Lucas website and they're the same price (regular price, over a year later), so it looks like I was hoodwinked into thinking they were on sale. One thing that this video doesn't show is that I was sore for 3 days after I did this job. There is no way that this job could have been completed using the "garbage bag" trick that some people mention. Interestingly, I replaced the tires on my '31 Model A and the job was much less difficult. Much less. The Model T tires grip the rims with much more force than the Model A.
@@flawrence11 I took all four rims off my truck yesterday after watching your video. The first rear tire I used a reciprocating saw, as the rubber was to hard to flex. And I found the steel wire they use around the bead, to be corroded to where it would just tear to pieces. On a truck the rear tires are larger then the front. They are 23x5, a bit harder to find. And the flaps are not typically carried. I did find they are on backorder at Coker tire. The truck used all blackwalls. They used to have knobby tread pattern, but now only passenger treads are being reproduced. That's OK. But I want to get the running gear in proper order, as well and engine, before I tackle the "C" cab. I don't know what the farmer that owned this truck pre 1970 hauled in the bed, but it corroded all the bottom sheet metal off, as wheel the rear sheetmetal of the cab, and I have no idea how it is bolted to the frames as that's all gone.
I purchased the truck from my neighbor, and moved it here back in 1984, and it's been stored waiting for a larger space to put it in. This I had built last summer, so it just got moved into the new garage last week. At age 67, I'm running out of time to restore this. I'm surprised there are so many businesses that are selling parts, as I would think the unrestored Model T market would be dried up by now. I better hurry, as that can change.
You should use talc powder to allow the tube and flap to slide around into alignment.
Thank you for the help. Video was helpful.
In UK we call them beaded edge tyres.
You should NEVER air up the tire on a rim that is not secured!!! The easy way to secure it is to mount the rim on the car then air it up. This is especially ture with the clinchers because you need to over infalte the tire to seat the beads. I learned about this when I was airing up a couple of tires that I had just mounted when the rim separated from the tire. Luckily I was not killed or injured!! The rim was launched high into the air coming down about 20 or 30 feet away !! This was about 4 years ago and the tire and rim are still running perfectly . If you check tire inflating procedures you will be warned and instructed to use only a lockable air nozzle to the stem as well. I guess the reason I was lucky is that I was changing these tires for a friend .. My '12 has nondemountables.
Henry Never put a flap in tires that I know of! Although I am not stating they are useless.
lol.
Of all the utube videos I have watched...hundreds.....I have never heard the "f" word. You must be a teenager!
Your culture invented the word (UK). Fornication Under Carnal Knowledge. It's a legal term. But being single syllable, easy to yell, and for some reason is now the major word of choice when dealing with irritating people and things. And I've heard it on many YT channels. You must be watching holy roller channels.