Hello, a really good video with many important tips, I especially appreciate AP formula. However, I want to pay attention to some factors you have missed: 1. ROF is very important for tanks. With or without the autoloader, tanks which shoot faster kill faster. Least acceptable ROF is 8, decent ROF is 10, any tank with ROF above 10 is terrific, even if it is cheap and can only kill infantry. That is why British tanks are bad (plus Chieftains are stupidly sloooow), since many of them have 7 ROF. 2. Roof armour (top) is also very important. A good tank should have at least 3 top armour, 4 is already outstanding. Since vehicles are especially vulnerable to cluster arty and bombs, thicker top armour allows vehicles to escape the hellish cluster rain from above with least amount of damage. 3. AP value cannot exceed 30 in the ground combat (this does not apply to ships, of course, they have own shenanigans). With this knowledge, it is possible to exchange couple of relatively cheap tanks (in range of 60-80 points) for a beast like M1A2 in a close combat. In addition, tanks with shooting distance of 2100 and 1925 meters are bad, since they can acquire smaller bonus for their AP value while getting closer to the target. So Abrams tanks with 105mm guns are bad (and the gun itself is meh for such price). 4. Stabilizer is very important for another reason as well: with it, tanks begin to aim earlier than tank without one. This is very important for tanks with ATGM missiles on board. For example, most top-line T-72 tanks have Svir ATGM, which can be fired only when the tank is stationary. On the other hand, T-80 and T-64 tanks have decent stabilizers for their ATGM's, what allows them to prepare their payloads earlier than T-72. 5. Very important note on ATGM tanks. In real life, these ATGM missiles replace normal AP or HE rounds and they are normally loaded into the cannon. In wargame, however, these ATGM missiles are counted as a separate weapon (like TOW missiles on Bradley APC). Tanks with ATGM cannot shoot simultaneously the missile and the cannon, but if you turn off the cannon and let the ATGM fire, the cannon will reload while ATGM flies. When ATGM hits or missies, you turn back the cannon on and the tank will shoot normally. This feature allow ATGM tanks to shoot twice faster, while having ammo for ATGM. Looking forward to other guides)
Idk 105 canons are good for fire support and killing light vehicles just because it does not have the max range for gun for not mean it can’t be useful
@@skyninjaslayer337 yes, cannon is a cannon after all) when i was writing that comment, i thought about direct tank to tank combat, where distance is important (see my comment about AP bonus with distance reduction). and i was thinking about concrete example of m1 abrams for 65 points. it is armed with 13 ap kinetic gun, which is very disappointing for such price (there are leo1a5 with 16 or 17 ap for example for the same price). yes, abrams is more armored, but the leo1a5 will kill enemy tanks faster thanks to proper distance of 2275 and better ap. on the redfor side, there are t-55 within price range of 55-65 points, which are equipped with atgm with 17 or even 21 ap (that is Dyna modification from Czech) with way more superior range than abrams. and i give other examples of tanks with smaller than 2275 range (starship, nana yon-shiki) which are great to deal with boxes and infantry, but i do not look at them as great tool to combat enemy tanks.
I recently started playing Wargame and your guides are just wonderful. Good luck on working on more of those videos and keep in mind that there are/will be hundreds of people (like me) that will appreciate your work. Thank you for your efforts!
I thought a bit and decided to share some gimmicky tanks in the wargame (and also a small guide to USSR tanks, many new players are getting very confused with so many T-something tanks). 1) M60A2 is not that bad as you may think. The 40 point version has 8 ROF on the main cannon with 4 HE power and additional autocannon, what allows to shred infantry on sight. In addition, Shlileila ATGM is very mediocre, but you can boost tank fire rate with it. Plus, both main cannon and ATGM has HEAT damage, so upvetted Starships can damage more expensive tanks. And M60A2 has decent 10 front armour, what allows to survive some cheap RPG or a tank shot. 2) Japanese Nana-yon-shiki tanks series have a priority ammo rack. It is not stated in the game stats, but it gives major advantage for them. The stats card says it has ROF 10, but in reality for first 5-6 shots (I cannot recall for sure) are fired with ROF of 13-15. If the tanks are left idle for some time or fully resupplied, they acquire this feature again. I am not sure for 100% for the mentioned numbers, but it is proven to exist and I have playtested it. This feature is very good on A and G models. G model simply has good gun stats plus MK19 AGL, what allows to kill infantry very well. The most cheapest Nana-yon-shili A has very mediocre stats, but gun shoots HEAT rounds instead of KE, what allows to potentially annihilate more expensive tanks with couple stacks of shiki A. 3) Beware of STRV 103 tank series. Yes, they have very scary ROF, but due to design of them, they struggle to shoot at the moving target. Keep that in mind. 4) Dutch tanks are identical to german tanks. Basically, they double the existing tank arsenal of germany (except Keiler and dutch bring in very handy amx-13). However, leo2a4 nl is better than normal leo2a4. It has 21 AP on the main gun instead of 19 AP of the german version, so pay attention when you assemble your deck or encounter them in the fight. And dont forget about dutch leo1a5 in the reconnaissance tab. 5) Small guide to USSR tanks, most useful in my opinion. Most of them you should take in the tank deck, but they are also good in the general deck (dont forget to upvet cheap tanks): - BMP-685 is a good cheap spammable tank with good ROF, decent options to kill boxes and infantry - T-80B is a decent 75 points tank, good for many tasks, mainly cheap fill to support your flang. It also has very powerful ATGM for its price, so take it. - T-80A is an interesting tank. Take it only for tank deck. it is a glass cannon with very powerful ATGM invar, which only encountered only at T-80U series tanks. - All T-64 above 100 points are your backbone of the tank forces. Main advantages: thicc armour, decent stabilizer for the gun and ATGM. Disadvantage - offroad speed could have been better. - If you have no access to T-64, take T-72B series tanks (including obr. 87 and 89 versions). Standard B and 87 versions have good gun (at least for REDFOR tanks), Svir with decent penetration and ok speed (plus more armour at 87 version). Try to upvet them, then it will actually start to score hits with the Svir. - Your pre-top tanks are T-80U and T-72 obr 89. Both are good, but if you are new, take T-72. It is more armored, what allows you to engage and kill enemies at shorter distances, while T-80U require some management to use their advantage of more powerful ATGM. - Same applies to top USSR tanks: T-80UM and T-72BU (it is actually a T-90, eugenes have tricked us!). T-72BU is more advisable to new players since it is more armored (and finally got a stabilizer on Svir!).
Absolutely love these guides. Even though I've been playing a while your videos are still incredibly helpful! Your content is great- I'm sure once the algorithm tips in your favour this channel will take off. :) Also PS: I don't know if you've been told already but you sound a bit like FrankieOnPc
That's a very difficult question, there is no "best" tank in the game so to speak, There are various super heavies such as the T80UM, M1A2, Leclerc amongst others but no tank is safe roaming around in an open field without support or smoke cover. Wargame is a game of hard counters, so even the super heavy tanks can easily be popped if they are not properly covered. You should only ever go out in the open field without cover when you know its safe and you are going against enemy units that can't pop it.
A break down of every single armoured unit in the game would be difficult for me as I honestly don't know them all in that kind of detail. I can do something like point out which stats are the most important for tanks and give some examples from the nations that I know well. The reality is "most" (not all) nations in the game have some kind of super heavy, some are just better than others, mainly based on armour value and AP value & accuracy, with rate of fire thrown in for good measure. And there is an element of "its not the size of the gun" its what you do with it that counts :)
@@Bandanner If you get a few buds together one weekend.. you can literally pick a Base tank then deploy one tank of each against that base tank to see how it holds up and base your research on that data.... IE one team moves forward a T55 and another moves forward a leopard with weapons truned off then at about 1500 meters turn the weapons on and see which tank survives the direct encounter... Totally plausible & super cool content though time consuming. Im Venny B ingame aka The Slender Man on steam.. Hit me if you need to toss ideas around... great vid never the less keep it up! +1
@@randomstupiddude3565 I mean it's a rather basic older tech tank compared to others that are available in the game. So while you can of course have it as a cheaper option its not going to outperform an M1A2 etc.
Hello, a really good video with many important tips, I especially appreciate AP formula. However, I want to pay attention to some factors you have missed:
1. ROF is very important for tanks. With or without the autoloader, tanks which shoot faster kill faster. Least acceptable ROF is 8, decent ROF is 10, any tank with ROF above 10 is terrific, even if it is cheap and can only kill infantry. That is why British tanks are bad (plus Chieftains are stupidly sloooow), since many of them have 7 ROF.
2. Roof armour (top) is also very important. A good tank should have at least 3 top armour, 4 is already outstanding. Since vehicles are especially vulnerable to cluster arty and bombs, thicker top armour allows vehicles to escape the hellish cluster rain from above with least amount of damage.
3. AP value cannot exceed 30 in the ground combat (this does not apply to ships, of course, they have own shenanigans). With this knowledge, it is possible to exchange couple of relatively cheap tanks (in range of 60-80 points) for a beast like M1A2 in a close combat. In addition, tanks with shooting distance of 2100 and 1925 meters are bad, since they can acquire smaller bonus for their AP value while getting closer to the target. So Abrams tanks with 105mm guns are bad (and the gun itself is meh for such price).
4. Stabilizer is very important for another reason as well: with it, tanks begin to aim earlier than tank without one. This is very important for tanks with ATGM missiles on board. For example, most top-line T-72 tanks have Svir ATGM, which can be fired only when the tank is stationary. On the other hand, T-80 and T-64 tanks have decent stabilizers for their ATGM's, what allows them to prepare their payloads earlier than T-72.
5. Very important note on ATGM tanks. In real life, these ATGM missiles replace normal AP or HE rounds and they are normally loaded into the cannon. In wargame, however, these ATGM missiles are counted as a separate weapon (like TOW missiles on Bradley APC). Tanks with ATGM cannot shoot simultaneously the missile and the cannon, but if you turn off the cannon and let the ATGM fire, the cannon will reload while ATGM flies. When ATGM hits or missies, you turn back the cannon on and the tank will shoot normally. This feature allow ATGM tanks to shoot twice faster, while having ammo for ATGM.
Looking forward to other guides)
Awesome extra tips as usual!
Idk 105 canons are good for fire support and killing light vehicles just because it does not have the max range for gun for not mean it can’t be useful
@@skyninjaslayer337 yes, cannon is a cannon after all) when i was writing that comment, i thought about direct tank to tank combat, where distance is important (see my comment about AP bonus with distance reduction). and i was thinking about concrete example of m1 abrams for 65 points. it is armed with 13 ap kinetic gun, which is very disappointing for such price (there are leo1a5 with 16 or 17 ap for example for the same price). yes, abrams is more armored, but the leo1a5 will kill enemy tanks faster thanks to proper distance of 2275 and better ap. on the redfor side, there are t-55 within price range of 55-65 points, which are equipped with atgm with 17 or even 21 ap (that is Dyna modification from Czech) with way more superior range than abrams. and i give other examples of tanks with smaller than 2275 range (starship, nana yon-shiki) which are great to deal with boxes and infantry, but i do not look at them as great tool to combat enemy tanks.
I'd argue brits tanks are decent purely by the virtue of the 120 they use
I recently started playing Wargame and your guides are just wonderful. Good luck on working on more of those videos and keep in mind that there are/will be hundreds of people (like me) that will appreciate your work.
Thank you for your efforts!
I thought a bit and decided to share some gimmicky tanks in the wargame (and also a small guide to USSR tanks, many new players are getting very confused with so many T-something tanks).
1) M60A2 is not that bad as you may think. The 40 point version has 8 ROF on the main cannon with 4 HE power and additional autocannon, what allows to shred infantry on sight. In addition, Shlileila ATGM is very mediocre, but you can boost tank fire rate with it. Plus, both main cannon and ATGM has HEAT damage, so upvetted Starships can damage more expensive tanks. And M60A2 has decent 10 front armour, what allows to survive some cheap RPG or a tank shot.
2) Japanese Nana-yon-shiki tanks series have a priority ammo rack. It is not stated in the game stats, but it gives major advantage for them. The stats card says it has ROF 10, but in reality for first 5-6 shots (I cannot recall for sure) are fired with ROF of 13-15. If the tanks are left idle for some time or fully resupplied, they acquire this feature again. I am not sure for 100% for the mentioned numbers, but it is proven to exist and I have playtested it. This feature is very good on A and G models. G model simply has good gun stats plus MK19 AGL, what allows to kill infantry very well. The most cheapest Nana-yon-shili A has very mediocre stats, but gun shoots HEAT rounds instead of KE, what allows to potentially annihilate more expensive tanks with couple stacks of shiki A.
3) Beware of STRV 103 tank series. Yes, they have very scary ROF, but due to design of them, they struggle to shoot at the moving target. Keep that in mind.
4) Dutch tanks are identical to german tanks. Basically, they double the existing tank arsenal of germany (except Keiler and dutch bring in very handy amx-13). However, leo2a4 nl is better than normal leo2a4. It has 21 AP on the main gun instead of 19 AP of the german version, so pay attention when you assemble your deck or encounter them in the fight. And dont forget about dutch leo1a5 in the reconnaissance tab.
5) Small guide to USSR tanks, most useful in my opinion. Most of them you should take in the tank deck, but they are also good in the general deck (dont forget to upvet cheap tanks):
- BMP-685 is a good cheap spammable tank with good ROF, decent options to kill boxes and infantry
- T-80B is a decent 75 points tank, good for many tasks, mainly cheap fill to support your flang. It also has very powerful ATGM for its price, so take it.
- T-80A is an interesting tank. Take it only for tank deck. it is a glass cannon with very powerful ATGM invar, which only encountered only at T-80U series tanks.
- All T-64 above 100 points are your backbone of the tank forces. Main advantages: thicc armour, decent stabilizer for the gun and ATGM. Disadvantage - offroad speed could have been better.
- If you have no access to T-64, take T-72B series tanks (including obr. 87 and 89 versions). Standard B and 87 versions have good gun (at least for REDFOR tanks), Svir with decent penetration and ok speed (plus more armour at 87 version). Try to upvet them, then it will actually start to score hits with the Svir.
- Your pre-top tanks are T-80U and T-72 obr 89. Both are good, but if you are new, take T-72. It is more armored, what allows you to engage and kill enemies at shorter distances, while T-80U require some management to use their advantage of more powerful ATGM.
- Same applies to top USSR tanks: T-80UM and T-72BU (it is actually a T-90, eugenes have tricked us!). T-72BU is more advisable to new players since it is more armored (and finally got a stabilizer on Svir!).
About the nana-yon shiki, it has a salvo length of 4 and a salvo reload time of 12, I guess it's that.
Great videos, probably the best Wargame Red Dragon videos out there!
Thanks! Glad you like them hopefully they have been helpful :)
Absolutely love these guides. Even though I've been playing a while your videos are still incredibly helpful! Your content is great- I'm sure once the algorithm tips in your favour this channel will take off. :)
Also PS: I don't know if you've been told already but you sound a bit like FrankieOnPc
Thanks very much, glad they are helping.
I dont think anyone has, I am not sure who that is I shall have to investigate.
This was very helpfull. Thank you for making these type of videos,.
Nice guide again!
Thanks :)
Why is the M1A2 better than the T-80U in every single stat w/ the same availability yet only costs 5 more points???
which is best for tank, individual or in group in the open field?
That's a very difficult question, there is no "best" tank in the game so to speak, There are various super heavies such as the T80UM, M1A2, Leclerc amongst others but no tank is safe roaming around in an open field without support or smoke cover.
Wargame is a game of hard counters, so even the super heavy tanks can easily be popped if they are not properly covered. You should only ever go out in the open field without cover when you know its safe and you are going against enemy units that can't pop it.
Good Insightful video... would like to see a video breaking down the strengths and weaknesses of each factions armor units..
A break down of every single armoured unit in the game would be difficult for me as I honestly don't know them all in that kind of detail. I can do something like point out which stats are the most important for tanks and give some examples from the nations that I know well.
The reality is "most" (not all) nations in the game have some kind of super heavy, some are just better than others, mainly based on armour value and AP value & accuracy, with rate of fire thrown in for good measure. And there is an element of "its not the size of the gun" its what you do with it that counts :)
@@Bandanner If you get a few buds together one weekend.. you can literally pick a Base tank then deploy one tank of each against that base tank to see how it holds up and base your research on that data....
IE one team moves forward a T55 and another moves forward a leopard with weapons truned off then at about 1500 meters turn the weapons on and see which tank survives the direct encounter...
Totally plausible & super cool content though time consuming.
Im Venny B ingame aka The Slender Man on steam.. Hit me if you need to toss ideas around... great vid never the less keep it up!
+1
The moment you Skipped the M60 on the American tanks I just died inside lol
Haha sorry :)
@@Bandanner is it any good tho?
@@randomstupiddude3565 I mean it's a rather basic older tech tank compared to others that are available in the game.
So while you can of course have it as a cheaper option its not going to outperform an M1A2 etc.
@@Bandanner thanks I'm just starting out and binge watching your guide lol
@@randomstupiddude3565 I hope they are helpful. Its a complex game so give it some time, you will learn over time what is good and bad. :)
If armor = 1 then damage = ap
This game sucks
like your mom