Thank you Kathleen! I had way too much of the wood filler so I just had to use it up for something lol, but there are other brands of the wood filler that is a lot better for shaping and contouring. Backer Rod will help reduce material for sure 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Do your best & fill the rest😂 Iv come across this a few times & iv unfortunately had to fill with timber strips cut on the table saw. Takes time to get it right (especially if it’s tapered) but is the best option imo because it’s less likely to crack or shrink over time.
#1 looks good. but on the big gap on left I'd be concerned about it cracking with age. I've only used this for small holes - can you really do long , thick sections and expect it to last? I have a door thats going to need at least 3/8 " all around. On a previous door i cut a strip of wood to fill the gap and it came out great , but was a pain.
On my country the wood strip is the way to go. I use a plane to achieve a perfect fit without any gap, then i paint it and the result is fast and perfect.
it comes from the door jamb being installed level and the walls not matching (not level or wider than the jamb). also the width of the jamb is less than the walls.
Okay.... so, you added tape on the floor before caulking, which makes sense, yet you removed the tape before and during the painting. Where's the logic in that?
@@pikepoke I think what he is referring to is to have a pro install a jamb that is wide enough to close the gap. He already mentioned that the wood filler is not a good option to use - pro or not. If this is correct, your reply is irrelevant.
I recently replaced my door jamb and have this problem. Glad I came across your video. Thank you.
I’m glad I could be of help Maria! 🙏🏽😊 thank you for watching!
Thanks for showing all the steps and materials you used, great job!
Thank you so much Al for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Looks good. I prefer taking off the casing, adding a trim piece ripped to face of wall and re casing the door.
I prefer method #1 as well. I learned something today. Thanks 🙏.
I’m glad I could be of help Dave! Thank you 🙏🏽!
I never have good luck with that wood filler so I prefer method #2 👍. Both ways finish up nice. I will have to remember the backer rod.
Thank you Kathleen! I had way too much of the wood filler so I just had to use it up for something lol, but there are other brands of the wood filler that is a lot better for shaping and contouring. Backer Rod will help reduce material for sure 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Do your best & fill the rest😂
Iv come across this a few times & iv unfortunately had to fill with timber strips cut on the table saw. Takes time to get it right (especially if it’s tapered) but is the best option imo because it’s less likely to crack or shrink over time.
Thanks for this video. I have a gap in my old house bathroom so this is an inexpensive fix.
Thanks for the twisting tip, that's what i needed to know
Both look good, nice work
Thank you Lin! 🙏🏽😊
Great methods using paint but what would you do for stained trim casings.
Hi! The wood filler version I used is stainable 👍🏽😊
nice work - as usual!
This video helped a lot, thanks!
#1 looks good. but on the big gap on left I'd be concerned about it cracking with age. I've only used this for small holes - can you really do long , thick sections and expect it to last?
I have a door thats going to need at least 3/8 " all around. On a previous door i cut a strip of wood to fill the gap and it came out great , but was a pain.
On my country the wood strip is the way to go. I use a plane to achieve a perfect fit without any gap, then i paint it and the result is fast and perfect.
Do you nail the wood strip in, then? Or glue it in? Thanks
this was very helpful! thank you so much :)
I was about to curse the first method, but even though its a lot of work, it seems worth the outcome.
👍🏻👍🏻
Thank you 🙏🏽
How about EXTERIOR DOORS where there's stucco gaps around the door??
Where did that gap come from?
it comes from the door jamb being installed level and the walls not matching (not level or wider than the jamb). also the width of the jamb is less than the walls.
also one of my favorite and dirtiest jokes from the simpsons, homer says "sweet delicious caulk" but doesnt pronounce the l.
Just use large white u channels.
Easier to cut the plasterboard / build out the lining to suit
Agree
Okay.... so, you added tape on the floor before caulking, which makes sense, yet you removed the tape before and during the painting.
Where's the logic in that?
lol "as you go to the left side it gets bigger".
not stooping to make a politics joke....but.... ;)
"only rosie odonnell"
Incorrect get a pro to install it wood filler is for small stuff it will 100 percent crack from the door closing
you are funny... a pro. if the jamb isn't as wide as the wall thickness, you will have a gap. if the walls are not level, it increases the challenge.
@@pikepoke
I think what he is referring to is to have a pro install a jamb that is wide enough to close the gap. He already mentioned that the wood filler is not a good option to use - pro or not. If this is correct, your reply is irrelevant.