Just to say a big thanks Rick for confirming my thoughts and adding extra tips to my intended shear scrapers. I will be making two one for a segmented turning project I am on with at the moment and trying a different angle of 15 degrees as I will be using the other to shear scrape a future epoxy resin project I have in mind. I have found the inclusive angle of 15 degrees works best with little or no chip out of resin. Thoroughly enjoyable and very informative video/posting, thanks again for your time and shared knowledge. Until your next adventure, regards and best wishes. Tony
Great idea Rick. I think that I will make one. One suggestion, it is much easier to start a tap if you church the tap in your drill press and start it by turning the chuck by hand. Also if the tap is chucked in the drill press, it will not be dropped and broken.
Nice video. I have made a number of my own tools and drill and tap to hold the bits. To start the tap straight I put the tap in my drill press BUT do not turn it on. I turn the chuck by hand until I have a good start on the threads, then remove the tap and continue in the regular way.
I like the whole idea of making this. And I have everything needed to do it. I have some 1/8" thick spokeshave blades that will work perfectly. They are about the same size as what you used. I was always going to use them to make a spokeshave using the castings we had at work. I like the idea of a negative rake scraper as well. I recently made a fluteless gouge and 2 spindle gouges from drill rod and they worked great. So this will be a fun project as well. Thanks for the idea. Gary
I never thought about using spokeshave blades, but then I don't have any spokeshaves. :-) I hope the one you make will work as well as this one - as I said in the video, it works great! Thanks for watching.
Looks good and works good!!!! My question is would it Be safer if it had a seat milled in to keep cutter from Possibly getting loose and turning on the flat surface?
That sounds like a good idea, as long as you don’t plan to change the orientation of the cutter. I rotate the cutter to various different angles to get into tighter areas and to use different parts of the cutter. Thanks for watching, Jeffery.
Hi Rick To sharpen I would use a diamond hone and place the cutter up side down just the same as when you sharpen a carbide cutter. A few figure 8's and it should be good to go. Sharping this way you don't have to worry about messing up the original angle or shape.
This will be fine if there's no chipping on the edge. I use a 10x loupe to examine mine for chipping. With carbide I get a lot of chipping, in that case they're scrap. With the HS steel lapping the top should work at least for every other sharpening.
Sounds like a good idea, John. But I'd have to remove it from the tool shaft...which isn't hard at all, just a little time-consuming, considering how often I might have to refresh the edge.
I've managed to chip up a couple of carbide cutters. I like this HSS cutter a lot. I couldn't find a carbide cutter with such a long edge - at least, one that is sold singly instead of in packs of 10.
I like to get the correct angle and shape on a peice of soft metal like bronze, and I make it a little bit larger than the blade. It works the same way sacrificial wood prevents chipping and tearing on your workpiece. If you file the brass down to the blade, you can sharpen the edge without making a bur. It's not as simple as it sounds, and it's very time consuming, but it makes for a very accurate edge.
Will be making this tool for sure. Thanks for sharing. Oh and by the way your a hard man on those taps. Seen a couple of your videos where you’ve broken a few!
You inspired me to make one just like yours but I am not getting the ribbons like you get. I did not sharpen out of the package, I will once I get my cbn wheel but is there a a technique I should work on?
I don't think I sharpened mine when I got it. While the shaft holds the cutting bit at 45 degrees, there is also the horizontal angle to be considered. I suggest swinging the handle of the tool back and forth until you find the best spot to cut. Hope that helps!
I really enjoyed this video. I am a new turner and I could have more luck making you new scraper than turning the bowl you were working on. LOL When sharpening the scraper I thought you should never sharpen the bevel just the top face of the cutter. That is the way you should sharpen carbide cutters. I am using the EWT carbide tools and diamond plates to sharpen the carbide cutters.
You're right about sharpening the top surface. I was being lazy, didn't want to take the cutter off the tool. I switched to a carbide cutter of the same shape after I made this video, and I sharpen it on the top face.
Been looking at the Sorbey model of this and now I'll make my own. Be careful cutting/grinding zinc coated steel. There is a LOT of toxic crap that comes off of it.
I don't think this bar had any zinc coating on it. Did it look like that? The description on the web site didn't mention it. Thanks for watching, Mark.
Rick, I've purchased all of the pieces. Will be first turning tool I've made. You mention the copper collar is a pipe fitting. Is it a cap you drilled a hole in the end or something else? What size 3/4"? Thank you
I used a pipe coupling. I don’t remember the size, but I’m pretty sure it was larger than 3/4”. I’ll always use as large a piece as I can find. In the tool I just finished making (just put the video up an hour or two ago), I used a 2” piece.
Place it top-down on the stone and rub with some honing lubricant. You only want to sharpen the top, trying to sharpen the sides would be just about impossible. I’m not sure what you mean about “saw it down the line”.
I reposition the cutter to allow me to get into smaller places, like an inside curve. So I don’t want it locked in place. Thanks for watching my video, Goodwin.
I’m pretty happy with it. I would really like to replace the HSS oval cutter with a carbide one of the same shape. I’ve looked all over and have found only one, which costs $88 because it is part of some other stuff that I don’t want. The HSS cutter is clumsy to sharpen. Other than that, I love this tool!
AZ Carbide shows a carbide teardrop but I ordered their HSS with Tungsten since I thought the carbide would be too hard to sharpen. Your thoughts? Would 5/8 or 3/4 steel be better? @@RickTurnsWoodturning
Wow, I’ve been to the AZ Carbide site a dozen times and never saw that carbide teardrop cutter. I might just buy it so I can compare it to the HSS cutter. Carbide doesn’t generally get as sharp as HSS, but it holds its edge longer. As for the size, I’d say longer is better. Good luck with your new tool!
Oh yeah, carbide is fairly easy to sharpen on a flat diamond stone, as long as the carbide has a flat top surface. I’m not sure how you could sharpen a carbide cutter with a lip blade on the edge.
That's a great idea! I've got some old HSS planer blades; do you have any thoughts on how I may cut out and drill a hole in hardened steel and then return it to a usable condition for a woodturning tool? And, on the subject of breaking the tap, a new by phrase "Anything that can go wrong, will eventually be shown on Rick Turns."
I tried drilling a hole in HSS once, and didn’t even make a dent in it. I did, however, cur a small slot in a HSS bit using a cutting disc on an angle grinder. I like the variation on Murphy’s Law!
Благодарим за ваше предложение. Я добавил некоторые ссылки на описание видео. (Перевод, предоставляемый Google Translate - я надеюсь, что это имеет смысл.)
Yes, I wanted to get a 3/4” square bar, but I could only find it at a metal supply online store, and the shipping varied from $17 to $22. The 1/2” bar was the only one I could find at a reasonable shipping cost - in this case, from Home Depot, as long as I picked it up from the local store. Thanks for watching, Vladimir.
Thank you, Alastair. But that silliness hasn't come easy. I fought for a Bachelor's degree in Nonsensical Technology, and managed to graduate summa cum laugha. Thanks for watching.
I believe you're correct. From Wikipedia: "Traditional twist drill bits may tend to wander when started on an unprepared surface. Once a bit wanders off course it is difficult to bring it back on center. A center drill bit frequently provides a reasonable starting point as it is short and therefore has a reduced tendency to wander when drilling is started. While the above is a common use of center drill bits, it is a technically incorrect practice and should not be considered for production use. The correct tool to start a traditionally drilled hole (a hole drilled by a high-speed steel (HSS) twist drill bit) is a spotting drill bit (or a spot drill bit, as they are referenced in the U.S.)." Thanks for watching and commenting, Ben.
That’s not a negative take scraper,that’s just a regular scraper tilted. A negative rake scraper is when the top of the scraper on say 70 deg and the bottom is ground on say 45 deg. The top angle has to be pointing down away from the piece your turning. Same as a neg cutting tool for a metal lathe! Sorry but that’s a fact!
Thanks for the input, Robert. (Sorry it has taken me so long to reply...for some reason, youtube put your comment in the spam bin, I have no idea why.) My videos are always a compromise between full detail and time. Longer videos don't get watched much. TH-cam reports that the average viewing time on each of my videos is only about seven minutes. I always go way over that!
I don't want to appear too rude but if you require more detail to make one of these tools, perhaps you should buy one instead, the video makers have to assume a certain level of mechanical and engineering experience, otherwise the videos would have to be hours long..
I think not. I have plenty of practice with a sharp bowl gouge. Even the best gouge work will still leave torn grain on the outside of bowl, right across the end grain. I learned of shear scraping by watching videos of professional woodturners. Check out Lyle Jameison's channel - he has a video in which he discusses shear scraping with a swept-back long-grind gouge. I have used a gouge for shear scraping on the outside of a bowl, and it does a very good job. But not as good a job as the tool I make in this video. On the inside of a bowl, I use a scraper for the most part - that is because I have found that my arms get in the way of my cameras when I use a gouge. Thanks for watching, Paul.
Just to say a big thanks Rick for confirming my thoughts and adding extra tips to my intended shear scrapers. I will be making two one for a segmented turning project I am on with at the moment and trying a different angle of 15 degrees as I will be using the other to shear scrape a future epoxy resin project I have in mind. I have found the inclusive angle of 15 degrees works best with little or no chip out of resin.
Thoroughly enjoyable and very informative video/posting, thanks again for your time and shared knowledge. Until your next adventure, regards and best wishes.
Tony
Thank you, Tony. I hope your tool making goes well.
Great idea Rick. I think that I will make one. One suggestion, it is much easier to start a tap if you church the tap in your drill press and start it by turning the chuck by hand. Also if the tap is chucked in the drill press, it will not be dropped and broken.
That’s a great idea - thanks!
Nice video. I have made a number of my own tools and drill and tap to hold the bits. To start the tap straight I put the tap in my drill press BUT do not turn it on. I turn the chuck by hand until I have a good start on the threads, then remove the tap and continue in the regular way.
That’s a great idea, Lewis...that never occurred to me, but I’m doing it that way from now on. Thanks!
Thanks for the video! My daughters boyfriend made me one using your video for directions. It turned out real nice. It works real well.
That’s great! I’m glad it’s working for you.
Made one a week ago, and I really like the way it works. Thanks for sharing your process.
That’s great. I love mine. Thanks for watching, Pajonate.
That special bit for getting started is called a slocombe bit. They are a great job for accurately starting the hole. Good vid Rick!
Thanks for the info, Kevin. I don't have any training or experience in metal-working, so every bit of information helps.
Rick I made one of these from your video a few months ago It works wonderfully Thank you
I’m glad to hear that, Don. Thanks for watching my videos.
I like the whole idea of making this. And I have everything needed to do it. I have some 1/8" thick spokeshave blades that will work perfectly. They are about the same size as what you used. I was always going to use them to make a spokeshave using the castings we had at work.
I like the idea of a negative rake scraper as well. I recently made a fluteless gouge and 2 spindle gouges from drill rod and they worked great. So this will be a fun project as well.
Thanks for the idea.
Gary
I never thought about using spokeshave blades, but then I don't have any spokeshaves. :-) I hope the one you make will work as well as this one - as I said in the video, it works great! Thanks for watching.
RickTurns thanks I will let you know. I may document the process with pictures and maybe video.
Exactly what I was looking for, thank you very much
Looks good and works good!!!! My question is would it
Be safer if it had a seat milled in to keep cutter from
Possibly getting loose and turning on the flat surface?
That sounds like a good idea, as long as you don’t plan to change the orientation of the cutter. I rotate the cutter to various different angles to get into tighter areas and to use different parts of the cutter. Thanks for watching, Jeffery.
Hi Rick To sharpen I would use a diamond hone and place the cutter up side down just the same as when you sharpen a carbide cutter. A few figure 8's and it should be good to go. Sharping this way you don't have to worry about messing up the original angle or shape.
This will be fine if there's no chipping on the edge. I use a 10x loupe to examine mine for chipping. With carbide I get a lot of chipping, in that case they're scrap. With the HS steel lapping the top should work at least for every other sharpening.
Sounds like a good idea, John. But I'd have to remove it from the tool shaft...which isn't hard at all, just a little time-consuming, considering how often I might have to refresh the edge.
I've managed to chip up a couple of carbide cutters. I like this HSS cutter a lot. I couldn't find a carbide cutter with such a long edge - at least, one that is sold singly instead of in packs of 10.
I like to get the correct angle and shape on a peice of soft metal like bronze, and I make it a little bit larger than the blade. It works the same way sacrificial wood prevents chipping and tearing on your workpiece. If you file the brass down to the blade, you can sharpen the edge without making a bur. It's not as simple as it sounds, and it's very time consuming, but it makes for a very accurate edge.
An excellent tutorial Rick, and a very effective tool at the end as well. Great video.
Cheers
Mike
Thank you, Mike.
well, it looks like I will be ordering a teardrop cutter soon.(tomorrow) I have everything else. Great/informative video Rick, thanks.
Thanks for watching, Tim.
Will be making this tool for sure. Thanks for sharing. Oh and by the way your a hard man on those taps. Seen a couple of your videos where you’ve broken a few!
I've definitely broken my share! Thanks for watching, John.
I like a guy who says " I'm not going to bother with that who cares." Thanks for the video, I may just have to make one for myself.
Thanks for watching, Darren.
You inspired me to make one just like yours but I am not getting the ribbons like you get. I did not sharpen out of the package, I will once I get my cbn wheel but is there a a technique I should work on?
I don't think I sharpened mine when I got it. While the shaft holds the cutting bit at 45 degrees, there is also the horizontal angle to be considered. I suggest swinging the handle of the tool back and forth until you find the best spot to cut. Hope that helps!
I really enjoyed this video. I am a new turner and I could have more luck making you new scraper than turning the bowl you were working on. LOL When sharpening the scraper I thought you should never sharpen the bevel just the top face of the cutter. That is the way you should sharpen carbide cutters. I am using the EWT carbide tools and diamond plates to sharpen the carbide cutters.
You're right about sharpening the top surface. I was being lazy, didn't want to take the cutter off the tool. I switched to a carbide cutter of the same shape after I made this video, and I sharpen it on the top face.
Thank for the "how-to," Rick. Well explained, great close-ups. Great job!
Best, Phil
Thank you, Phil.
Thank you! Excellent alternative to woodpeckers ultra shear, that has facets on the bottom.
Thanks for watching, Dustin.
Thanks for a great video Rick. Gotta make one of these to compliment my other carbide tools.
Thank you again, Don.
Good video. It looks like an excellent tool addition
I’m going to make a negative rake scraper like you did
Thanks for watching, Ken.
Been looking at the Sorbey model of this and now I'll make my own. Be careful cutting/grinding zinc coated steel. There is a LOT of toxic crap that comes off of it.
I don't think this bar had any zinc coating on it. Did it look like that? The description on the web site didn't mention it. Thanks for watching, Mark.
Rick, I've purchased all of the pieces. Will be first turning tool I've made. You mention the copper collar is a pipe fitting. Is it a cap you drilled a hole in the end or something else? What size 3/4"? Thank you
I used a pipe coupling. I don’t remember the size, but I’m pretty sure it was larger than 3/4”. I’ll always use as large a piece as I can find. In the tool I just finished making (just put the video up an hour or two ago), I used a 2” piece.
@@RickTurnsWoodturning thank you. I’m anxious to get mine put together.
Thanks for another entertaining video. I have a few tools with carbide tips but will add this one to the arsenal.
Thank you, Dan.
Nice bits for the Bad Ass. They need a negative rake Bad Ass.
Nice tool.
Thanks for watching, Lee.
That is one snazzy tool Rick and so is your devastator 5000! ha ha
Thank you, Stephen.
How would you sharpen this scraper on diamond stone ? Never mind saw it down the line
Place it top-down on the stone and rub with some honing lubricant. You only want to sharpen the top, trying to sharpen the sides would be just about impossible. I’m not sure what you mean about “saw it down the line”.
Rick could you please tell me where I can purchase the teardrop cutter and the torxhead screw. Thanks Bob
Scratch that I watched the begining !!! LOL
Glad you found it! Here's the url anyway - bit.ly/32LrDSs. Thanks for watching, Bob.
how come it dont have a ridge ground so it would be locked in place
I reposition the cutter to allow me to get into smaller places, like an inside curve. So I don’t want it locked in place. Thanks for watching my video, Goodwin.
I only learned that a month ago!! We're in the same boat!
Now only if the boat doesn't sink! :-) Thanks for watching, Kevin.
Now that you have used this tool would you make any changes? Steel length/size? Angle of scraper? Thanks,
I’m pretty happy with it. I would really like to replace the HSS oval cutter with a carbide one of the same shape. I’ve looked all over and have found only one, which costs $88 because it is part of some other stuff that I don’t want. The HSS cutter is clumsy to sharpen. Other than that, I love this tool!
AZ Carbide shows a carbide teardrop but I ordered their HSS with Tungsten since I thought the carbide would be too hard to sharpen. Your thoughts? Would 5/8 or 3/4 steel be better?
@@RickTurnsWoodturning
Wow, I’ve been to the AZ Carbide site a dozen times and never saw that carbide teardrop cutter. I might just buy it so I can compare it to the HSS cutter. Carbide doesn’t generally get as sharp as HSS, but it holds its edge longer. As for the size, I’d say longer is better. Good luck with your new tool!
Oh yeah, carbide is fairly easy to sharpen on a flat diamond stone, as long as the carbide has a flat top surface. I’m not sure how you could sharpen a carbide cutter with a lip blade on the edge.
Thanks but how about the steel size? I think Iwill try 5/8" square.@@RickTurnsWoodturning
Pretty cool tool man, thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Cool Rick, Thanks
Thanks for watching, Jack.
I do learn a lot from watching
Awesome video I’m definitely going to make one thank you
Thanks for watching and commenting, Robert.
What a great tool. I'm definitely going to make one of these. ☺️
Thank you, Miss Tee. In another few weeks, I’ll have a video on my improved version using a carbide bit.
Do you ever think about doing a demo at a Woodturners club? Awesome
Thank you, Glen.
5:55 “That special someone in your life: Yourself!” 😂.
Thanks for watching, V.
Very nice tool thank you for sharing great ideas 👍🏼🍻
Thank you, Tomas.
That's a great idea! I've got some old HSS planer blades; do you have any thoughts on how I may cut out and drill a hole in hardened steel and then return it to a usable condition for a woodturning tool? And, on the subject of breaking the tap, a new by phrase "Anything that can go wrong, will eventually be shown on Rick Turns."
I tried drilling a hole in HSS once, and didn’t even make a dent in it. I did, however, cur a small slot in a HSS bit using a cutting disc on an angle grinder. I like the variation on Murphy’s Law!
Nice job!
Thank you, Carol.
GREAT VIDEO !!! Rick
Thank you, Anthony.
Мне кажется что эти скрепки на любителя. Спасибо за видео обзор!
Если можете скиньте пожалуйста несколько ссылок на интернет магазины
Благодарим за ваше предложение. Я добавил некоторые ссылки на описание видео. (Перевод, предоставляемый Google Translate - я надеюсь, что это имеет смысл.)
Спасибо!
Thank you, but that cheap bar might vibrate more than you want.
Yes, I wanted to get a 3/4” square bar, but I could only find it at a metal supply online store, and the shipping varied from $17 to $22. The 1/2” bar was the only one I could find at a reasonable shipping cost - in this case, from Home Depot, as long as I picked it up from the local store. Thanks for watching, Vladimir.
Brilliant Rick-but you didn't leave the web address for the Big Ass 5000,please rectify!🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for watching, Alan.
Nagyon sajnálom, hogy eltört a menetfúrója!
Turn concrete? Holy Toledo! Good video, though.
BA Woodturning Tools - Our Goal is to Make Simple Woodturning Tools Deadly! Thanks for watching, Nik.
I love when you do silly stuff
Thank you, Alastair. But that silliness hasn't come easy. I fought for a Bachelor's degree in Nonsensical Technology, and managed to graduate summa cum laugha. Thanks for watching.
A good tool turned out. Great cut.
Thank you, Aleksey.
thank for sharing
Thanks for watching, Juan.
To easily start a tap put it in the drill press and turn it bu hand>
Thanks for the tip, Rob. I just made that tool again for a friend, and that technique worked great.
can you make me one of these?
It’s a great tool! Thanks for watching , Steve.
I believe that’s called a center drill but. But I could be wrong...
I believe you're correct. From Wikipedia: "Traditional twist drill bits may tend to wander when started on an unprepared surface. Once a bit wanders off course it is difficult to bring it back on center. A center drill bit frequently provides a reasonable starting point as it is short and therefore has a reduced tendency to wander when drilling is started.
While the above is a common use of center drill bits, it is a technically incorrect practice and should not be considered for production use. The correct tool to start a traditionally drilled hole (a hole drilled by a high-speed steel (HSS) twist drill bit) is a spotting drill bit (or a spot drill bit, as they are referenced in the U.S.)." Thanks for watching and commenting, Ben.
Good
Thank you, William.
Awesome
Thanks for watching!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
And thanks one more time, Theodore.
Never did say how much.
I’ll speak to BA Woodturning Tools ad agency about that. Thanks for watching, Harry.
Some of those add-on cutters looked pricey...
I would buy one from you.
Handle our no Handel!!
Let me know if you want to make me one!!!
Thanks for watching, Charlie.
That’s not a negative take scraper,that’s just a regular scraper tilted. A negative rake scraper is when the top of the scraper on say 70 deg and the bottom is ground on say 45 deg. The top angle has to be pointing down away from the piece your turning. Same as a neg cutting tool for a metal lathe! Sorry but that’s a fact!
Thanks for the information, Buster.
not enough detail
Thanks for the input, Robert. (Sorry it has taken me so long to reply...for some reason, youtube put your comment in the spam bin, I have no idea why.) My videos are always a compromise between full detail and time. Longer videos don't get watched much. TH-cam reports that the average viewing time on each of my videos is only about seven minutes. I always go way over that!
I don't want to appear too rude but if you require more detail to make one of these tools, perhaps you should buy one instead, the video makers have to assume a certain level of mechanical and engineering experience, otherwise the videos would have to be hours long..
like
Thank you.
Nice waste of money Rick. Maybe more practice with a sharp bowl gouge would pay dividends?
I think not. I have plenty of practice with a sharp bowl gouge. Even the best gouge work will still leave torn grain on the outside of bowl, right across the end grain. I learned of shear scraping by watching videos of professional woodturners. Check out Lyle Jameison's channel - he has a video in which he discusses shear scraping with a swept-back long-grind gouge. I have used a gouge for shear scraping on the outside of a bowl, and it does a very good job. But not as good a job as the tool I make in this video. On the inside of a bowl, I use a scraper for the most part - that is because I have found that my arms get in the way of my cameras when I use a gouge.
Thanks for watching, Paul.