When drilling into hardened metal, use a block of Bee's wax. It keeps the bit cooler and cuts better. Start drilling for the bit to get hot, then touch the Bee's wax to the bit to let some melt on it. Repeat as necessary. Bee's wax is cheap and will make the bits last longer! Cant wait for the next episode!!! You guys are Awesome!!!
I’m a machinist and would recommend a cutting oil or cutting wax great for keeping drill bit temp down. Reduce your rpm on the drill when the material is harder than the cutter it just makes the process more difficult than it has to be and finally pilot holes use a drill bit roughly half the size of the desired drill size or the thickness of the web (inner diameter of the point) that usually fixes the problems for me
I lost my dad a few years ago, but always appreciate the things he taught me growing up. One of them was how to drill hardened steel. The drill bit should be a much harder steel than the steel you are drilling into, so you should have no problem shaving off metal as long as it keeps its edge. Keeping the edge is where the bit needs help. Ask too much of it, it will get hot and get dull. Drill a small pilot hole first, and step up to larger bits in increments. Keep the bit cool by using a medium oil and keeping the drill turning slow. Torque is your friend, not speed. By switching belts around on the pulleys of my drill press, I can get the speed down to a leisurely 240 RPM. With a hand drill this gets trickier, as you have to set your speed by trigger depression. Finally, If the piece you are drilling is loose, clamp it down because if the bit catches, it could throw the piece causing property damage or injury.
Yes! Great tips for sure. Throughout the project we definitely found that going slow was the key. If we couldn't see the cutting edges of the bit; it was spinning too fast was our metric. Started with 1/16" and worked our way up from there.
I love the looks of the L-track with individual removable panels. Not only does it look better than tongue & groove boards, but it reduces weight AND gives you easy access to wiring should you need it in the future.
I work in a machine shop and what we use for drilling tough metals is with a carbide drill that’s a tri-flute drill. It works so fantastic! Way better than a cobalt drill. Food for thought. I’m sure you’re all done doing most of the drilling now but I just got to watch this. You guys are doing a fantastic job. I’ve been watching you guys for a few years now and you’ve given me many ideas for upgrades on my Winnebago Era. Thanks and keep up the fantastic job.
Carbide would be the best however being in a hand drill it may shatter once they break through and tilt it. I think there's a tool thats a drill press with a magnet base that could give an even plunge?
You guys are crushing it! Hang in there! This is sooo timely for me as I start on my Ford Transit. Thank you for "the best van step by step build instructions" on TH-cam!!!
looks great. I think you should paint that Max Air Fan trim Black and get some black screws. It sticks out like a sore thumb being white while everything else is black.
lol, yeah; we talked about that and will likely be doing that. Plus... they actually make a black one if we mess that one up. Same thing with the window blinds.
I always carry a large magnet (covered in blue paint tape) that I stick to the sheet metal under my holes when I'm drilling to catch the metal shavings when I'm drilling. The tape helps to avoid scratches on the sheet metal.
You asked us to leave comments for tips on drilling hardened boron steel of a ford transit. I use an abrasive cone bit. First I take a punch and dimple the metal and then I use a rotary tool to bore the hole bigger with the abrasive cone. It’s slow but it does the trick
Like the use of 'L' track and contrasts nicely against the wood . 'OutSide Van' did something similar on one of their projects where 'L' track was used liberally throughout the van to keep things modular so cabinets could be relocated or in one case the customer went with Soft Storage along the sides and hung from the ceiling of the van , also the customer opted for a hammock instead of a regular bed , that way he could have room for his motorcycle should he wished to take one with him. So looking nice , clean lines .
Sorry to hear about the drill biting you. That happened to me as a teen with a Milwaukee Hole Hog and a 4" auger chucked when it caught a hidden bolt. I woke up wondering what happened and yes, my nose never looked the same! Enjoying the series...thanks.
I built out a 2020 Transit in my driveway during the pandemic. Early on I discovered the harden steel issue with the Transit. Therefore I decided to use only the existing factory holes in the van. In put threaded plus nut inserts into all of them and everything in the van is fastened via those spots. It worked out beautifully. I mounted 8020 extruded aluminum length ways on the sides to have structure for cabinet, bed and shelf support. Then mounted flexible luan plywood sheets directly to the van walls using the remained inserts. No special tools required, just the hand tool jig from the plus nut company. A bit slower than the special tools, but I will never need to install plus nuts again, so why buy a special tool. I only needed to install about 50, I don’t think there are 400 holes in my van. By not using furring strips I gained valuable inches of space inside the living area and the luan conforms to all the compound curves. I have no shop, and only use 4 handheld power tools; orbital sander, circular saw, jig saw & drill.
Egads! I kept thinking about using a stop collar on the drill bits. Any holes in the outer sheetmetal? Man, with all those fasteners you’ll be able to transport anything! Nice!
I just bought a 2000 Chevy box truck fire search and rescue truck.13.641 original miles. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to this type of stuff. But your video has helped me decide how I want to do the inside so thank you. Now I just hope I can actually do this. Being disabled and on s.s.d.i. income sucks.
Carbide drill bits are a lot better than cobalt for steel. Like you said start with a smaller diameter bit and then finish with desired diameter. Heat is what kills drill bits, and speed is what causes a lot of the heat, so use a relatively slow speed.
I was trained by the US Army to repair Safes and Arms room vaults...sames as bank vaults.... (Not much use in the states for a combat sniper...Vietnam 1970, 2/502 Inf 101st Airborne) after I got back... I was a bump and paint man before I was first drafted...spent 9 years Army before moving to Australia. All safes when drilled one uses; cobalt drill bits, which are very expensive and brittle, saying that, when using them, slow the drill down extremely low and also use oil (they used to make a cutting oil for armor plating, but even engine oil helps, putting a couple drops on the bit ....that way you won't break them as they are very brittle... Side note; >As a teacher I used to always explain to my students, that the reason I just told you not to do something, is because I did do the same thing and paid the consequences...LOL... nice post folks...be smart...
This is looking excellent, like the style of been industrial if that makes sense the fittings and black screws/ bolts look smart. That Rivnut air gun has paid its self back too 😀 nice going Thank you Sam
Astro Pneumatic Tool PRN1 is the ideal tool to use, its what I use at work at on a daily basis. Also try rivet nuts in sheet metal, preferably stainless. much better than 'plus nuts' they're less prone to loosening from vibration.
Glad I found your channel, I was trying to figure out a lot of how to do things for the interior of my build and your video's have really helped out with what I'll be doing.
I truly enjoy watching your accuracy and precision with everything you do. Unbelievable. I am very jealous. I wish I could do my projects with half the precision. Excellent job! John from Cape Cod
This is a great video. I do have some ideas for you. Instead of using loctite 242 you should try loctite 248. It is a paste version of the 242. It works much like a lipstick except that I would not apply it to your lips. If I were you. You simply put the threads into it and it will removes exactly the amount that you need. No waste and no mess! The other idea I have for you is that you use a router instead of a jigsaw when cutting out windows. Simply bolt the panel that you are cutting the window out of into place then cut out a hole in an obvious spot within the window area and use a flush cut router bit to cut out the interior of the window. This is faster, cleaner and more accurate than a jigsaw will ever be. Rivet nut or rivnut is would I search for on McMaster-Carr. It's another name, but if you can't find what your looking for then perhaps it's the terminology. I also find that more selection is available with metric threads. There are vastly more companies and countries using the metric system versus SAE. That's all I have for now. Thanks so much for your videos. I watch every single one and have a huge appreciation for your knowledge of electrical systems.
Wow, the quality of those videos are on the roof this is TV production level...If not made yet you should try to sell this concept to a TV station asap. As for the buil I am speachless.
The pneumatic rivet nut setter tool is a major 🔑 It will save you a whole day if you’re installing this many plus nuts. That new guy on the team is an awkward penguin 🐧😂
When drilling steel, slow as you found is better and always use a lubricant… a few drops of 3-n-1 or better specialist cutting oils wd-40 silicon or ct-90 cutting oil.
My lordy that is a tedious job. Looks great. AND as you promised the installation of the 12V outlets. It's funny because you used a different kind of 12V outlet that just screws into the wall from the front. That is a way easier design compared to the kind I bought that have the plastic screw on the back that you need to have access behind the walls to mount. So i guess what i learned was buy a different 12V outlet. Thanks again.
Sort-of... It sounds like we are using the same outlet. We secured the outlet to the front plate with the big screw/ring on the back, and then drilled the hole to the same size as the OUTER diameter of the retaining ring on the back. This let us just screw the whole thing in from the front.
Again one year plus, :-) I wonder, I often use rivnuts that come with a very small flange so you don’t need to either space out or drill out a small section. Wonder if these also are available in plus nuts which I think I like better. Awesome build, I am going to lend your ideas if you are Allright 😅
I really appreciate the build details. I have been watching your solar videos for awhile - it’s like going to trade school. Such a wealth of information we have access to - thank you.
would you have done riv nuts next time since they would install easier with the air gun then the plus nuts? seems easy to mess up with how strong plus nuts are
I don't really have a strong opinion on plusnuts vs rivnuts. I think those two are like the ford vs dodge of the fastener world. People love one and hate the other when in all reality, they are both fine.
I did something similar, but much less nice (furring strips, plus-nuts, and thin wall board) on our Transit. Suggestion: It really helps to use cutting oil, if you are not doing so, when drilling through metal. 400 plus nuts! That's wild. If the are 18"" apart, that's ~600 ft of L-track/furring. I'd be interested in why so much track, or so many Plus nuts. Looks like some of the plus nuts are spaced at
Thanks! The holes in the L-track are about 6" apart and we just used plus-nuts to match. We used so much track so we would have infinite options for attaching cabinets, beds, etc as you see later in the build. We played around with the PSI of the tool, but I don't remember specifically what we landed on as the best result. Just have to play around with it like you would with a nail gun.
Great info and I expect to follow your ideas. Probably using silver flanged Ltrack and white walls. Did I miss an episode where you cut the foam blobs near the front?`. Keep up the good work.
So, the main reasons and benefits for all the L track are: (1) Strong and configurable mounting surfaces for cabinets, seats, beds, kitchen counters etc. (2) They make it much easier to remove whatever is secured to them so you can get access to the walls behind them (and what's behind the walls themselves). (3) They make the van more "modular in the sense the cabinets, boxes and beds mounted to them can be removed more readily so that the van can open up inside and be used for hauling large objects etc. (4) The L track allows for very flexible anchor points for straps to secure loads inside the van. Is that about it? Just trying to decide if they are worth the effort for my more primitive and simple build. Thanks
First off, good content! It is helping me with my own build-out:2022 SPRINTER 4x4 cargo. Question: I took your advice and bought the pneumatic gun and 1/4 -20 plus nuts and I can't get them to tighten up before they spin. So far only trialed in scrap and no good! Would a longer drive screw in the gun's nose-piece help? It seems too short with minimal engagement in the plus nut and each of the 4 screws that I used that came as spares with the gun have cross-threaded themselves and the plus nut which then let to friction and spinning. Please let me know what you think and keep up with the good tutorials.
You guys definitely have some talent. That turned out beautiful! Thank you for the step by step detail and direction. That would make an AWESOME expeditor cargo van! Great job!
No problem! Thanks for watching! The track is going to remove all question marks about where is a good spot to attach beds/cabinets/etc and ensure that the attachment points are good enough. It's obviously not necessary, but without it, more consideration must be taken to ensure cabinets are fastened to the wall securely.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yeah, I understand your point of view, but can't the insulation be installed after all that drilling, so a good part of the shavings could be vacuum cleaned?
There were a LOT of 'blind' holes, which means that we couldn't access the back side of the hole, which means we could have never gotten a vacuum back there. Any where we could get a vacuum, we did vacuum up our mess, but we omitted that from the video in attempt to cut down the 12+ hours of video footage we had down to sub-30 minutes. I'm not too worried about a piece of metal stuck in our insulation, though. Even if it rusts, it's not going to hurt anything. Metal shavings are just part of vehicle customization and if we wanted to avoid metal shavings completely; we'd be better off buying a car and not modifying it at all. Otherwise, we just do the best we can. Installing the insulation after the furring strips and L-Track is definitely possible, but it's just one more thing that's 'in the way' and would have unnecessarily (IMO) broken up our 'wall building' process and video.
Thanks for the great content! What is an “Anderson port”? I don’t recall you providing any content on them. I am past the panel install phase in my Transit build, but about to start enclosing my 8020 upper cabinets and finish the under cabinet lighting. Hence I am very curious about the “Anderson port”. Thanks for all the help!
It's just another type of DC electrical port. I skipped over them in our branch circuit videos because they aren't very popular and I'm using them for a really specific use case; and I though that showing them earlier wouldn't have made sense. You'll see those a LOT in the upcoming cabinet videos. Basically, though, the bottom two ports are wired directly to the fuse block for constant power so that we can install a USB outlet, water pump, refrigerator, or anything else that needs constant power and connect it to that port so the cabinet could still be removed if wanted. The top two ports on the connectors near the ceiling are on a switch for 'upper cabinet lights' and the top two ports on the connectors near the floor are on a switch for 'lower cabinet lights'. I don't think that was a very clear description of what they are... so maybe just 'staying tuned for future episodes is the best option here so I can show you.
Hi Nate, I hope you did not use non-SS black oxide steel bolts/screws; I found out the hard way they rust in about 6 months. My van was parked outside, and I had to redo all black oxide mounting bolts; they all rusted. Granted, a thread locker will help, but not for bolt heads. Anyway, good luck, with the build!
awesome build guys, how do you like those snap electrical connectors - when I found those it was like a revelation in the electrical wiring schemes. I'll be installing my AC unit this week, it should be fun! the T track on that birch is good looking, very sharp - its fun doing these types of projects because you end up learning what works, what you'd do differently etc. GREAT JOB EVERYONE!
When you "temporarily" attach the furring, are you using self tapping screws? Are you using the same holes you plan to ultimately use for the L track? If not I guess you are painting all those? Thanks for a great vid
I love, love your videos. I am redoing my ceiling. But I can't use furring strips like you did because I would lose too much height. Does the L-Track need support behind all spots? Could I just hang it lengthwise as you did without a furring strip between the ribs of the van ceiling?
Great Channel...Just started my Transit 250....got the same pneumatic tool and plus nuts in video. I'm having a problem with the plus nut spinning on install and won't mushroom out. The hole is smaller than 3/8 , tried a star washer to see if it would grip.. not sure what I'm missing. Thanks in advance
From a functionality standpoint with the l-track... yes; I would absolutely do it like this again. Especially now that we've started attaching furniture to the walls. From a 'time commitment' standpoint... maybe. It depends on how much of a time-crunch I was in. This was quite labor and time intensive. The 'easier' but more expensive solution with the same(ish) functionality is the Adventure Wagon wall kit.
Great video! I'm curious why you used the furring strips with the L-track to secure the panels? I'm not challenging your installation, I'm genuinely curious as I'm just about to install my L-track and panels. I've referenced Alpine Van Works and Ourkaravan who both installed the flanged L-track to the van wall (no furring strips)and used the l track to hold the panels in place. Would really appreciate your thoughts behind your installation!! Again, thanks for the great video!
Using the flanged L-Track would have meant that we would have had to unbolt the L-Track from the wall to access behind the panel. With the screws like we did, it takes about 5 minutes to pull off a wall panel, which is MUCH faster.
If you have already finished the van, can you still put L tracks to the wall panels, since that is already mounted to the furry strips, which is mounted to the van?
Really nice work guys and now you have me thinking about that pneumatic plus nut tool in place of the Astro device which I've already purchased. Here's a thought; someone needs to come up with a swap site where van builders can sell their new and slightly used tools once their build is finished. BTW, is your van the 148"extended 350HD? Thank you again Nate and Steph for sharing with us all of your hard work : )
We only used the Astro tool about a half dozen times. 🤣😂 Honestly, the Pneumatic tool is super worth it. I've already used it outside of the van to attach something to the outside of one of my toolboxes. I can also see using it when we get around to exterior mods like bumpers and such to add shovels/maxxtrax and such to. Our van is the 148" non-extended 350 w/ single rear wheel.
Sharing in the USA. Nope, not gonna happen. Everyone wants their own of everything, even if we only use it once a year. RV', boats, planes, tools, pools, ATV's, motorcycles, etc.
Hi guys! I'm here to ask another question :) We just started installing plusnuts today using the Kiarou pneumatic tool that you linked above. Did you have any problems with mandrels have a short life? We replaced the mandrels supplied with a 2 1/2" bolt - and we could only find stainless steel. The first mandrel we used lasted for only 6 plus nuts, the 2nd mandrel was good for 3 plusnuts, the 3rd mandrel was good for 1 plus nut, and same for the 4th mandrel. Did you have problems with running through mandrels like this? Not sure if it's something we're doing wrong or if it's a problem with the tool. But at this rate we're going to pay crazy money just for mandrel replacements. I know you're not pneumatic tool experts, but don't know who else to ask. Thanks....and happy New Year!
We went through probably a half dozen. Get some anti-seize paste (any hardware or auto parts store will have this) and keep the threads lubed up. A thread die was also helpful for straightening the mandrel threads out as needed.
Random question... What drill bits did you use to mount the l track into the hardened steel ribs? I'm having a hard time finding bits that will drill through the thick metal. Your van is looking great! Enjoying following along as I am just getting started with my new transit conversion as well.
Great video demonstration and have been a follower for a while. One question that came to mind at the end of the video when the walls were done was the batteries and electronic panels that were shown in the background on the driver's side floor in the back of the van. I see what look like 2 batteries (assuming battle born), but they don't' look like the standard group 31 type batteries. Are these one of their other form factors and which specific model of battery (and are they heated!)? I looked at the videos on the electrical systems but didn't see the specific callout of the batteries. Love your videos and your previous wire diagrams have been super useful over the last few years on my van wiring project!!
Hey there! Was it difficult to bend the L track to match the curve of the wall? I haven’t tried yet as I’m waiting to get my van. Love the channel and stoked to use it as a resource on my build. Thanks!
I would love to know your thinking behind using the paste wax versus a polyurethane or other coating. I’m sure each one has its own pros and cons but would love to know what helped you make your decision.
We had paste wax in the cabinet and did not have polyurethane or other coatings. 🤷♂️🤣 There was incredibly minimal thought that went into what finish we used on the wood. Paste wax is always my go-to as it works well for most cases I'm trying to use it for.
Hi Nate and Steph. I bought the rivet gun and riv nuts you recommended. Whenever I try to put a nut into the van, it just spins and the plus nuts don’t open. Any ideas?
Maybe I missed, but I didn't see you had used reflectix for insulation... neither here nor in the previous episode. But you mentioned it while starting the insulation. Did you actually use it? Thanks!
Nice! I'd be interested to see how they compare to Cobalt. A google search for Cobalt vs Molybdenum drill bits pretty much just returned a forum with a bunch of machinists arguing with each other. 😂🤣
First of all, the wood wiht dark screws and L track look great. Two questions: - why firring strips and not attaching the L track directly to the van metal - I see only one reason which is to have something for the panelling to grab, or because the L track can't curve enough to accomodate to van wall curves? - the spacing of screws for the L track seems close, assuming each screw can hold 50+ lbs, a screw every (it seems) 9-10 inches looks like overkill, am I wrong?
Thanks! 1: The wood panels is the main reason, but it was also necessary for routing the factory wiring harness since we opted to not relocate it into the walls (which seemed like a HUGE hassle and risk. 2: Maybe it's overkill, but will give us some REALLY solid points to attach our cabinets and bed to. This was one of those 'do it right, do it once' and 'Anything worth doing is worth OVERdoing' kind of things. Plus... I'm tired of our viewers saying things like 'That'll never hold up in a crash!!' 🤣😂
When drilling into hardened metal, use a block of Bee's wax. It keeps the bit cooler and cuts better. Start drilling for the bit to get hot, then touch the Bee's wax to the bit to let some melt on it. Repeat as necessary. Bee's wax is cheap and will make the bits last longer!
Cant wait for the next episode!!! You guys are Awesome!!!
I’m a machinist and would recommend a cutting oil or cutting wax great for keeping drill bit temp down. Reduce your rpm on the drill when the material is harder than the cutter it just makes the process more difficult than it has to be and finally pilot holes use a drill bit roughly half the size of the desired drill size or the thickness of the web (inner diameter of the point) that usually fixes the problems for me
I lost my dad a few years ago, but always appreciate the things he taught me growing up. One of them was how to drill hardened steel. The drill bit should be a much harder steel than the steel you are drilling into, so you should have no problem shaving off metal as long as it keeps its edge. Keeping the edge is where the bit needs help. Ask too much of it, it will get hot and get dull. Drill a small pilot hole first, and step up to larger bits in increments. Keep the bit cool by using a medium oil and keeping the drill turning slow. Torque is your friend, not speed. By switching belts around on the pulleys of my drill press, I can get the speed down to a leisurely 240 RPM. With a hand drill this gets trickier, as you have to set your speed by trigger depression. Finally, If the piece you are drilling is loose, clamp it down because if the bit catches, it could throw the piece causing property damage or injury.
Yes! Great tips for sure. Throughout the project we definitely found that going slow was the key. If we couldn't see the cutting edges of the bit; it was spinning too fast was our metric. Started with 1/16" and worked our way up from there.
@Npowrd .. +1. Agreed. .. Your dad taught you well; R.I.P. Dad. .. Slow the drill bit speed commensurate with the material at hand. ..
I love the looks of the L-track with individual removable panels. Not only does it look better than tongue & groove boards, but it reduces weight AND gives you easy access to wiring should you need it in the future.
Thanks! Totally agree and that's exactly why we went that route.
I work in a machine shop and what we use for drilling tough metals is with a carbide drill that’s a tri-flute drill. It works so fantastic! Way better than a cobalt drill.
Food for thought. I’m sure you’re all done doing most of the drilling now but I just got to watch this.
You guys are doing a fantastic job. I’ve been watching you guys for a few years now and you’ve given me many ideas for upgrades on my Winnebago Era. Thanks and keep up the fantastic job.
Carbide would be the best however being in a hand drill it may shatter once they break through and tilt it. I think there's a tool thats a drill press with a magnet base that could give an even plunge?
You guys are crushing it! Hang in there!
This is sooo timely for me as I start on my Ford Transit. Thank you for "the best van step by step build instructions" on TH-cam!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
looks great. I think you should paint that Max Air Fan trim Black and get some black screws. It sticks out like a sore thumb being white while everything else is black.
lol, yeah; we talked about that and will likely be doing that. Plus... they actually make a black one if we mess that one up. Same thing with the window blinds.
I always carry a large magnet (covered in blue paint tape) that I stick to the sheet metal under my holes when I'm drilling to catch the metal shavings when I'm drilling. The tape helps to avoid scratches on the sheet metal.
10:31 Locktite 😃. Smart. In an environment subject to vibration, that can save a lot of future heartaches.
You asked us to leave comments for tips on drilling hardened boron steel of a ford transit.
I use an abrasive cone bit. First I take a punch and dimple the metal and then I use a rotary tool to bore the hole bigger with the abrasive cone. It’s slow but it does the trick
This is a gorgeous build! I usually don't like the utilitarian modular build-outs but this is fantastic - taking notes for my build.
Like the use of 'L' track and contrasts nicely against the wood .
'OutSide Van' did something similar on one of their projects where 'L' track was used liberally throughout the van to keep things modular so cabinets could be relocated or in one case the customer went with Soft Storage along the sides and hung from the ceiling of the van , also the customer opted for a hammock instead of a regular bed , that way he could have room for his motorcycle should he wished to take one with him.
So looking nice , clean lines .
For sure! I think that Outside Van uses the Adventure Wagon kit that we were trying to emulate, except do it from scratch.
Sorry to hear about the drill biting you. That happened to me as a teen with a Milwaukee Hole Hog and a 4" auger chucked when it caught a hidden bolt. I woke up wondering what happened and yes, my nose never looked the same! Enjoying the series...thanks.
I built out a 2020 Transit in my driveway during the pandemic. Early on I discovered the harden steel issue with the Transit. Therefore I decided to use only the existing factory holes in the van. In put threaded plus nut inserts into all of them and everything in the van is fastened via those spots. It worked out beautifully. I mounted 8020 extruded aluminum length ways on the sides to have structure for cabinet, bed and shelf support. Then mounted flexible luan plywood sheets directly to the van walls using the remained inserts. No special tools required, just the hand tool jig from the plus nut company. A bit slower than the special tools, but I will never need to install plus nuts again, so why buy a special tool. I only needed to install about 50, I don’t think there are 400 holes in my van. By not using furring strips I gained valuable inches of space inside the living area and the luan conforms to all the compound curves. I have no shop, and only use 4 handheld power tools; orbital sander, circular saw, jig saw & drill.
I am planning the wall install for my Transit. Plan on using existing holes also. Do you have any photos of your van build?
@@ellenstipo3115 yes, do you mind giving me your email address? I don’t know how to get them to you otherwise.
hey Rick, the same for me - will follow your suggestion as i have a small ford custom transit ....
I think this is better than drilling because all those shaving will rust quickly from condensation and rust will spread.
Egads!
I kept thinking about using a stop collar on the drill bits.
Any holes in the outer sheetmetal?
Man, with all those fasteners you’ll be able to transport anything!
Nice!
No holes here! We were pretty careful and often times the drill bit wasn't long enough to reach the outer metal anyway.
The wall came out great, and the yeah, the black and birch look is 👌
Thanks! 🙂🙌
@JB Lewis .. +1. Agreed. .. The L-Track is so bloody functional. . Looks great to boot.
Whoa! That’s a heck of a shiner. 😮
I just bought a 2000 Chevy box truck fire search and rescue truck.13.641 original miles. I'm a complete idiot when it comes to this type of stuff. But your video has helped me decide how I want to do the inside so thank you. Now I just hope I can actually do this. Being disabled and on s.s.d.i. income sucks.
Sounds like a cool project! 🙂👍
As an electrical Tricia for many years I have found using "pan head" self tapping 'tek' screws to be ideal when attaching stuff to steel or wood
For sure! We definitely tried self tappers, but WOW is that boron steel some hard stuff. It was just rounding off the self tappers.
i have watched quite a few of the videos in this series....wow! great work.....but what a LOT of time it takes to craft this together!
Hey, Jim Eben! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Carbide drill bits are a lot better than cobalt for steel. Like you said start with a smaller diameter bit and then finish with desired diameter. Heat is what kills drill bits, and speed is what causes a lot of the heat, so use a relatively slow speed.
I was trained by the US Army to repair Safes and Arms room vaults...sames as bank vaults.... (Not much use in the states for a combat sniper...Vietnam 1970, 2/502 Inf 101st Airborne) after I got back... I was a bump and paint man before I was first drafted...spent 9 years Army before moving to Australia.
All safes when drilled one uses; cobalt drill bits, which are very expensive and brittle, saying that, when using them, slow the drill down extremely low and also use oil (they used to make a cutting oil for armor plating, but even engine oil helps, putting a couple drops on the bit ....that way you won't break them as they are very brittle...
Side note;
>As a teacher I used to always explain to my students, that the reason I just told you not to do something, is because I did do the same thing and paid the consequences...LOL... nice post folks...be smart...
This is looking excellent, like the style of been industrial if that makes sense the fittings and black screws/ bolts look smart.
That Rivnut air gun has paid its self back too 😀 nice going
Thank you Sam
Hey Sam Hartfield Lewis, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Now if they made the window blinds and max air covers came in black, it would be perfect. Great job.
Awesome videos. Still to do my first build but the detail you go into gives me confidence. Thanks Andy
Excellent video!
Thank you Both for sharing. Super video!
Ya'll are beasts! Super clean work, nicely done. Wow that's a lot of footage.
Astro Pneumatic Tool PRN1 is the ideal tool to use, its what I use at work at on a daily basis. Also try rivet nuts in sheet metal, preferably stainless. much better than 'plus nuts' they're less prone to loosening from vibration.
Glad I found your channel, I was trying to figure out a lot of how to do things for the interior of my build and your video's have really helped out with what I'll be doing.
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
I'm beginning to understand why these well built vans are hundreds and hundreds of thousands of dollars!!!! wow
I truly enjoy watching your accuracy and precision with everything you do. Unbelievable. I am very jealous. I wish I could do my projects with half the precision. Excellent job! John from Cape Cod
Hey John Cooke, Thanks so much! Cheers!
This is a great video. I do have some ideas for you. Instead of using loctite 242 you should try loctite 248. It is a paste version of the 242. It works much like a lipstick except that I would not apply it to your lips. If I were you. You simply put the threads into it and it will removes exactly the amount that you need. No waste and no mess! The other idea I have for you is that you use a router instead of a jigsaw when cutting out windows. Simply bolt the panel that you are cutting the window out of into place then cut out a hole in an obvious spot within the window area and use a flush cut router bit to cut out the interior of the window. This is faster, cleaner and more accurate than a jigsaw will ever be. Rivet nut or rivnut is would I search for on McMaster-Carr. It's another name, but if you can't find what your looking for then perhaps it's the terminology. I also find that more selection is available with metric threads. There are vastly more companies and countries using the metric system versus SAE. That's all I have for now. Thanks so much for your videos. I watch every single one and have a huge appreciation for your knowledge of electrical systems.
👍
Wow, the quality of those videos are on the roof this is TV production level...If not made yet you should try to sell this concept to a TV station asap. As for the buil I am speachless.
We appreciate that! Thanks for your kind words! 😁😁👍
The pneumatic rivet nut setter tool is a major 🔑 It will save you a whole day if you’re installing this many plus nuts. That new guy on the team is an awkward penguin 🐧😂
Awkward penguin fits in with the rest of us awkward penguins. 🤣👍
DANG NATE! Same eye as last month. Definitely *overdoing*
I'm very proud of all of my awkward penguins. ❤❤❤❤
The van is exquisite.
When drilling steel, slow as you found is better and always use a lubricant… a few drops of 3-n-1 or better specialist cutting oils wd-40 silicon or ct-90 cutting oil.
My lordy that is a tedious job. Looks great.
AND as you promised the installation of the 12V outlets.
It's funny because you used a different kind of 12V outlet that just screws into the wall from the front. That is a way easier design compared to the kind I bought that have the plastic screw on the back that you need to have access behind the walls to mount.
So i guess what i learned was buy a different 12V outlet.
Thanks again.
Sort-of... It sounds like we are using the same outlet. We secured the outlet to the front plate with the big screw/ring on the back, and then drilled the hole to the same size as the OUTER diameter of the retaining ring on the back. This let us just screw the whole thing in from the front.
Again one year plus, :-) I wonder, I often use rivnuts that come with a very small flange so you don’t need to either space out or drill out a small section. Wonder if these also are available in plus nuts which I think I like better. Awesome build, I am going to lend your ideas if you are Allright 😅
I really appreciate the build details. I have been watching your solar videos for awhile - it’s like going to trade school. Such a wealth of information we have access to - thank you.
Hey, John Huval! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
would you have done riv nuts next time since they would install easier with the air gun then the plus nuts? seems easy to mess up with how strong plus nuts are
I don't really have a strong opinion on plusnuts vs rivnuts. I think those two are like the ford vs dodge of the fastener world. People love one and hate the other when in all reality, they are both fine.
I'd probably just use plus nuts again because they worked just fine for us this time around; and why change a good thing.
I did something similar, but much less nice (furring strips, plus-nuts, and thin wall board) on our Transit. Suggestion: It really helps to use cutting oil, if you are not doing so, when drilling through metal. 400 plus nuts! That's wild. If the are 18"" apart, that's ~600 ft of L-track/furring. I'd be interested in why so much track, or so many Plus nuts. Looks like some of the plus nuts are spaced at
Thanks! The holes in the L-track are about 6" apart and we just used plus-nuts to match. We used so much track so we would have infinite options for attaching cabinets, beds, etc as you see later in the build. We played around with the PSI of the tool, but I don't remember specifically what we landed on as the best result. Just have to play around with it like you would with a nail gun.
Great info and I expect to follow your ideas. Probably using silver flanged Ltrack and white walls. Did I miss an episode where you cut the foam blobs near the front?`. Keep up the good work.
We haven't talked about that in any videos just yet. Removing them was simply yanking them off of the wall. They are only secured with a trim clip.
so fun to watch the builds. although you guys are so good at it it's almost discouraging when i think about my budget, lol
So, the main reasons and benefits for all the L track are: (1) Strong and configurable mounting surfaces for cabinets, seats, beds, kitchen counters etc. (2) They make it much easier to remove whatever is secured to them so you can get access to the walls behind them (and what's behind the walls themselves). (3) They make the van more "modular in the sense the cabinets, boxes and beds mounted to them can be removed more readily so that the van can open up inside and be used for hauling large objects etc. (4) The L track allows for very flexible anchor points for straps to secure loads inside the van. Is that about it? Just trying to decide if they are worth the effort for my more primitive and simple build. Thanks
First off, good content! It is helping me with my own build-out:2022 SPRINTER 4x4 cargo. Question: I took your advice and bought the pneumatic gun and 1/4 -20 plus nuts and I can't get them to tighten up before they spin. So far only trialed in scrap and no good! Would a longer drive screw in the gun's nose-piece help? It seems too short with minimal engagement in the plus nut and each of the 4 screws that I used that came as spares with the gun have cross-threaded themselves and the plus nut which then let to friction and spinning. Please let me know what you think and keep up with the good tutorials.
I believe you do need to replace with longer bolts for plus nuts, you can get them at the hardware store
Very nicely done!!
Hey Soames Haworth, Thanks so much! Cheers!
You guys definitely have some talent. That turned out beautiful! Thank you for the step by step detail and direction. That would make an AWESOME expeditor cargo van! Great job!
Hey, skipperga! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
Thanks for this informative video. I need this about last year. I’m glad you guys share this. Im on the fence about purchasing the track though
No problem! Thanks for watching!
The track is going to remove all question marks about where is a good spot to attach beds/cabinets/etc and ensure that the attachment points are good enough. It's obviously not necessary, but without it, more consideration must be taken to ensure cabinets are fastened to the wall securely.
That pneumatic plus nut gun is the bomb! I assume it works on rivnuts as well. Excellent investment. 👍
Yeah, it's pretty great! We didn't try it on rivnuts; but I suspect it would work just as well there as well.
Hi Cad from here in the UK
Thanks for sharing your wall solution. By far the most difficult part of the van build for us. Nice work!
Hey Donny Shuler, No problem! Glad it helped! :)
Great job. Wow a lot of work. Thanks Don
Thanks 👍
Great quality video as usual! I am just wondering about all those metal shavings stuck in the insulation.
Hey Charlevoix418, Thanks so much! The key to that kind of stuff is to 'not worry about things we can't do anything about'. 😂😂
@@EXPLORISTlife Yeah, I understand your point of view, but can't the insulation be installed after all that drilling, so a good part of the shavings could be vacuum cleaned?
There were a LOT of 'blind' holes, which means that we couldn't access the back side of the hole, which means we could have never gotten a vacuum back there. Any where we could get a vacuum, we did vacuum up our mess, but we omitted that from the video in attempt to cut down the 12+ hours of video footage we had down to sub-30 minutes. I'm not too worried about a piece of metal stuck in our insulation, though. Even if it rusts, it's not going to hurt anything. Metal shavings are just part of vehicle customization and if we wanted to avoid metal shavings completely; we'd be better off buying a car and not modifying it at all. Otherwise, we just do the best we can. Installing the insulation after the furring strips and L-Track is definitely possible, but it's just one more thing that's 'in the way' and would have unnecessarily (IMO) broken up our 'wall building' process and video.
@@EXPLORISTlife Holding a U-shaped strong magnet around the hole as you drill catches a LOT of the shavings.
I will have to try the reverse drilling. Great video, very detailed. I love it. Thanks for sharing. #KapKen
Thanks for the great content! What is an “Anderson port”? I don’t recall you providing any content on them. I am past the panel install phase in my Transit build, but about to start enclosing my 8020 upper cabinets and finish the under cabinet lighting. Hence I am very curious about the “Anderson port”. Thanks for all the help!
It's just another type of DC electrical port. I skipped over them in our branch circuit videos because they aren't very popular and I'm using them for a really specific use case; and I though that showing them earlier wouldn't have made sense. You'll see those a LOT in the upcoming cabinet videos. Basically, though, the bottom two ports are wired directly to the fuse block for constant power so that we can install a USB outlet, water pump, refrigerator, or anything else that needs constant power and connect it to that port so the cabinet could still be removed if wanted. The top two ports on the connectors near the ceiling are on a switch for 'upper cabinet lights' and the top two ports on the connectors near the floor are on a switch for 'lower cabinet lights'.
I don't think that was a very clear description of what they are... so maybe just 'staying tuned for future episodes is the best option here so I can show you.
Hi Nate, I hope you did not use non-SS black oxide steel bolts/screws; I found out the hard way they rust in about 6 months. My van was parked outside, and I had to redo all black oxide mounting bolts; they all rusted. Granted, a thread locker will help, but not for bolt heads. Anyway, good luck, with the build!
Your videos are so informative! Will there be one on making and installing slideouts?
Like... Drawer slide outs for bikes? If so... Yes. 🙂
Thanks for another great one.
awesome build guys, how do you like those snap electrical connectors - when I found those it was like a revelation in the electrical wiring schemes. I'll be installing my AC unit this week, it should be fun! the T track on that birch is good looking, very sharp - its fun doing these types of projects because you end up learning what works, what you'd do differently etc. GREAT JOB EVERYONE!
What bolts did you use to hold down the L-track? I want to make sure that the bolt sits flush in the channel
When you "temporarily" attach the furring, are you using self tapping screws? Are you using the same holes you plan to ultimately use for the L track? If not I guess you are painting all those? Thanks for a great vid
Self tappers, yes. Generally no. Also yes. You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
I love, love your videos. I am redoing my ceiling. But I can't use furring strips like you did because I would lose too much height. Does the L-Track need support behind all spots? Could I just hang it lengthwise as you did without a furring strip between the ribs of the van ceiling?
Super clean and nice👍
Hey Spaceman 1111, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Great Channel...Just started my Transit 250....got the same pneumatic tool and plus nuts in video. I'm having a problem with the plus nut spinning on install and won't mushroom out. The hole is smaller than 3/8 , tried a star washer to see if it would grip.. not sure what I'm missing. Thanks in advance
Can you share what type of black screws these are? They look great!
Very nice! Love the look. How did you manage to extend the short cable provided for the Cerbo GX all the way above the sliding door?
Ah yes! Stay tuned! Will be talking about that when we install the electrical system in two weeks.
I think I might use this but with accents of hardwood rather than the track.
A little WD-40 will help on that drilling, plus a drill sharpening tool will extend the life of your bits
Thank u Steph & Nate Look's Great Love the Look, See u Guy's Next Week Besafe PS Nate Let Steph Do all the drilling Mate Hehehhehe Take Care.
😂🤣 That sounds like a good excuse for me to get out of work in the future. "I can't run the drill... remember the walls?"
@@EXPLORISTlife Hope the eyes better soon Mate Have a Awesome week Nate Thank u For the reply Tc
Love those finger tattoos! I'm curious about their meaning.. Thank you :)
Thanks for the video, well done!
Thanks! 🙂🙌
I’ve been watching wall builds like crazy and this seems like the way to go! In retrospect did it work out? Would you do it this way again?
From a functionality standpoint with the l-track... yes; I would absolutely do it like this again. Especially now that we've started attaching furniture to the walls. From a 'time commitment' standpoint... maybe. It depends on how much of a time-crunch I was in. This was quite labor and time intensive. The 'easier' but more expensive solution with the same(ish) functionality is the Adventure Wagon wall kit.
@@EXPLORISTlife Looks great and I can only imagine how easy it’s making mounting. Part that scares me is it took 200 man hours and I’m one person.
Seems like you could use a drill with a bolt chucked in to mimic what the plus nut gun can do. I may give that a go
Did it work?
Great video! I'm curious why you used the furring strips with the L-track to secure the panels? I'm not challenging your installation, I'm genuinely curious as I'm just about to install my L-track and panels. I've referenced Alpine Van Works and Ourkaravan who both installed the flanged L-track to the van wall (no furring strips)and used the l track to hold the panels in place. Would really appreciate your thoughts behind your installation!! Again, thanks for the great video!
Using the flanged L-Track would have meant that we would have had to unbolt the L-Track from the wall to access behind the panel. With the screws like we did, it takes about 5 minutes to pull off a wall panel, which is MUCH faster.
I'd like to see rear door panels with smaller window box openings across the top half of the windows to better insulate and for more privacy.
👍👍
The same happened to my daughter's face and she had to get stitches. It's a very scary experience.
If you have already finished the van, can you still put L tracks to the wall panels, since that is already mounted to the furry strips, which is mounted to the van?
Very nice installation
Glad you like it!
Really nice work guys and now you have me thinking about that pneumatic plus nut tool in place of the Astro device which I've already purchased. Here's a thought; someone needs to come up with a swap site where van builders can sell their new and slightly used tools once their build is finished. BTW, is your van the 148"extended 350HD? Thank you again Nate and Steph for sharing with us all of your hard work : )
We only used the Astro tool about a half dozen times. 🤣😂 Honestly, the Pneumatic tool is super worth it. I've already used it outside of the van to attach something to the outside of one of my toolboxes. I can also see using it when we get around to exterior mods like bumpers and such to add shovels/maxxtrax and such to.
Our van is the 148" non-extended 350 w/ single rear wheel.
Return the Astro tool. It’s slower, harder to use and messed up threads in my plusnuts.
Sharing in the USA. Nope, not gonna happen. Everyone wants their own of everything, even if we only use it once a year. RV', boats, planes, tools, pools, ATV's, motorcycles, etc.
Hi Chad !! 😊
Great job guys
Hey spooner Fpv, Thanks so much! Cheers!
Very nice job
Thank you! Cheers!
Possible just to use a router plunge it through the board and just route the inside perimeter of the window
Hi guys! I'm here to ask another question :) We just started installing plusnuts today using the Kiarou pneumatic tool that you linked above. Did you have any problems with mandrels have a short life? We replaced the mandrels supplied with a 2 1/2" bolt - and we could only find stainless steel. The first mandrel we used lasted for only 6 plus nuts, the 2nd mandrel was good for 3 plusnuts, the 3rd mandrel was good for 1 plus nut, and same for the 4th mandrel. Did you have problems with running through mandrels like this? Not sure if it's something we're doing wrong or if it's a problem with the tool. But at this rate we're going to pay crazy money just for mandrel replacements. I know you're not pneumatic tool experts, but don't know who else to ask. Thanks....and happy New Year!
We went through probably a half dozen. Get some anti-seize paste (any hardware or auto parts store will have this) and keep the threads lubed up. A thread die was also helpful for straightening the mandrel threads out as needed.
Random question... What drill bits did you use to mount the l track into the hardened steel ribs? I'm having a hard time finding bits that will drill through the thick metal. Your van is looking great! Enjoying following along as I am just getting started with my new transit conversion as well.
Cobalt Bits. Check the video description. I've got links for parts & tools there.
Absolutely love the comparison of the Plus Nut tools. I wish there were more demonstrations like this so i dont buy the wrong tools.
Incredible 😀
Thanks! 🙂🙌
That's BITCHIN!!! Glad to see you put on the safety glasses :)
Thanks! Should have worn a full face helmet.
Good information, Good job.
Thanks! 🙂🙌
Great video demonstration and have been a follower for a while. One question that came to mind at the end of the video when the walls were done was the batteries and electronic panels that were shown in the background on the driver's side floor in the back of the van. I see what look like 2 batteries (assuming battle born), but they don't' look like the standard group 31 type batteries. Are these one of their other form factors and which specific model of battery (and are they heated!)? I looked at the videos on the electrical systems but didn't see the specific callout of the batteries. Love your videos and your previous wire diagrams have been super useful over the last few years on my van wiring project!!
Stay tuned! We will be releasing our electrical video in 2-3 weeks with ALL of that info.
Hey there! Was it difficult to bend the L track to match the curve of the wall? I haven’t tried yet as I’m waiting to get my van.
Love the channel and stoked to use it as a resource on my build.
Thanks!
Nope. It’s fairly flexible in that regard. The 1x4s were more rigid.
@@EXPLORISTlife amazing, thanks for the quick reply!
Did you attach the furring strips with plusnuts as well? Or did you just use self tapping screws?
I would love to know your thinking behind using the paste wax versus a polyurethane or other coating. I’m sure each one has its own pros and cons but would love to know what helped you make your decision.
We had paste wax in the cabinet and did not have polyurethane or other coatings. 🤷♂️🤣 There was incredibly minimal thought that went into what finish we used on the wood. Paste wax is always my go-to as it works well for most cases I'm trying to use it for.
Hi Nate and Steph. I bought the rivet gun and riv nuts you recommended. Whenever I try to put a nut into the van, it just spins and the plus nuts don’t open. Any ideas?
Looking at doing a similar setup. How many pieces of L track did you use?
Maybe I missed, but I didn't see you had used reflectix for insulation... neither here nor in the previous episode. But you mentioned it while starting the insulation. Did you actually use it?
Thanks!
lol, yeah; we ended up not using any. I figured we would use some on the B/C pillars but ended up not.
Use drills that they use for building aircrafts. They are mostly unbreakable. Molybdenum I believe I'd what makes them like that.
Nice! I'd be interested to see how they compare to Cobalt. A google search for Cobalt vs Molybdenum drill bits pretty much just returned a forum with a bunch of machinists arguing with each other. 😂🤣
@@EXPLORISTlife I've broken lots of cobalt drill bits. Don't remember breaking a molybdenum drill bit. They cost a lot but in the long run you save.
Hi Chad!
First of all, the wood wiht dark screws and L track look great. Two questions:
- why firring strips and not attaching the L track directly to the van metal - I see only one reason which is to have something for the panelling to grab, or because the L track can't curve enough to accomodate to van wall curves?
- the spacing of screws for the L track seems close, assuming each screw can hold 50+ lbs, a screw every (it seems) 9-10 inches looks like overkill, am I wrong?
Thanks!
1: The wood panels is the main reason, but it was also necessary for routing the factory wiring harness since we opted to not relocate it into the walls (which seemed like a HUGE hassle and risk.
2: Maybe it's overkill, but will give us some REALLY solid points to attach our cabinets and bed to. This was one of those 'do it right, do it once' and 'Anything worth doing is worth OVERdoing' kind of things.
Plus... I'm tired of our viewers saying things like 'That'll never hold up in a crash!!' 🤣😂