You really grind the heck out of the blades. I use a file to sharpen my hedge trimmers. The manual process may take a while longer but I get a factory edge without removing a lot of metal.
Tank you for the knowledge. You managed to get me to watch all 31min of your video, when most on the shapen topic are 4-7min in length, mostly because I learned something new about every 6min or so. One of the best videos I've ever watched in the how to video arena. One comes away with not only how but why. . Thanks again
Just did this for my first time ever today, watched this last night as preparation. Was very straight forward and this is definitely the easiest way to do it, was super relieved I didn’t end up having to take the blades off. Thank you!
really good advice and nice detailed explanation! non adjustable gap makes it hard to get the blades back to factory performance though. i recommend using some spray on oil after each usage of the tool to avoid rust and the build up between the blades. keep up the good work:)
Just found this channel and that was absolutely the best training video I've seen in hedge trimmers. Have you done one on sharpening tiller tunes. Thank you
Thanks. You addressed a challenge I've run into sharpening these how to hold the cutter. We have a Park at work just never tried it for that. Do you remove the cutter assy from the engine before sharpening? Getting the teeth right at that 50% is a bit tricky with engine attached. I'm retired but just started a part time job at a saw shop last July. And it's YOUR YT channel present as you see fit to explain the job. Well done. Gary
Thanks! I do not remove the engines, that’s where I use both sides of the grinding wheel. Sometimes it gets a bit tricky up close to the engine, do your best.
@@wallysworkin823 Wally, Yesterday had a hedge trimmer to sharpen. Put it in the bike vise clamp and bingo it was clamped and securely held. Thanks again. Gary
Looking at your edges , I like my method much better, makes a factory appearing and extremely sharp edge and much faster process, I use a Right Angle Die Grinder with a 2” Course Roll Lock Abrasive Pad. You should try it , no sparks either…
You really grind the heck out of the blades. I use a file to sharpen my hedge trimmers. The manual process may take a while longer but I get a factory edge without removing a lot of metal.
Tank you for the knowledge. You managed to get me to watch all 31min of your video, when most on the shapen topic are 4-7min in length, mostly because I learned something new about every 6min or so. One of the best videos I've ever watched in the how to video arena. One comes away with not only how but why. . Thanks again
Thank you, glad it was helpful.
Thank you sir. I prefer the straight to the content when I look for how to videos and you did an awesome job doing that thank you.
Just did this for my first time ever today, watched this last night as preparation. Was very straight forward and this is definitely the easiest way to do it, was super relieved I didn’t end up having to take the blades off. Thank you!
Glad it helped you!
Thank you. Really useful description of how a hedge trimmer works, so sharpening techniques make sense.
Excellent I'll be putting this into practice tomorrow!! Thankyou for the great tips.
really good advice and nice detailed explanation! non adjustable gap makes it hard to get the blades back to factory performance though. i recommend using some spray on oil after each usage of the tool to avoid rust and the build up between the blades. keep up the good work:)
I did forget to mention the lube. We like to use the Stihl cleaner/resin remover.
Just found this channel and that was absolutely the best training video I've seen in hedge trimmers. Have you done one on sharpening tiller tunes. Thank you
Brilliant video , very instructive
Thanks. You addressed a challenge I've run into sharpening these how to hold the cutter. We have a Park at work just never tried it for that. Do you remove the cutter assy from the engine before sharpening? Getting the teeth right at that 50% is a bit tricky with engine attached. I'm retired but just started a part time job at a saw shop last July. And it's YOUR YT channel present as you see fit to explain the job. Well done. Gary
Thanks! I do not remove the engines, that’s where I use both sides of the grinding wheel. Sometimes it gets a bit tricky up close to the engine, do your best.
@@wallysworkin823 Wally, Yesterday had a hedge trimmer to sharpen. Put it in the bike vise clamp and bingo it was clamped and securely held. Thanks again. Gary
Another great vid
Good technique and advice but could have gotten to the point and done in 2 mins. Consider making a shorter version.
Lots of info to cover but yes I agree, short version would be great.
Less is more Wally. You lost half the viewers.
very nice
Thank you, assembling the clamp and disks now.
Is there any value to using lower RPMs if the grinder supports it?
May not cut as fast with lower rpm, depends on the grinding wheel.
@@wallysworkin823 Will be using the disk you recommended. My hope is to avoid overheating.
@@robertmatt7756 go nice and slow with light pressure, take your time. Not the end of the world if you get it too hot.
More information on that $300 vice and where to get one please
Park Tool PRS-7-1 , numerous places on line have them. $239.95 directly from Park Tool.
Which part of Arizona do you live in?
North Scottsdale.
What is the name of the disk you like to use
Pearl Abrasive Co. It’s the Flextron Synthetic Resinoid Technology. The 4.5” wheel is part number FLEX4536.
Blighmy Charlie, informative, but you took way to long to tell us what to do.
Use the time stamps to skip ahead. It’s a how to AND tips and tricks video!
Looking at your edges , I like my method much better, makes a factory appearing and extremely sharp edge and much faster process, I use a Right Angle Die Grinder with a 2” Course Roll Lock Abrasive Pad. You should try it , no sparks either…
Thanks for the tip! I guess it’s just what I’m used to.