You neglected to take the differential section apart. On high mileage units you will find that the wear shims on the side gears will be very thin and need to be replaced.
I too have a 64 bird. When I had a shop go through the diff, the dealer got a little excited and told him its ID tag came back as being Nodular. So that's one strong rear end!
@@Exit45Restorations I'm not sure. The shop doing the work had to order a part from the Ford dealer and the dealer parts guy told him that. I don't know if he derived it from the tag or not,
Hello. When i did the rear end of my 66, i ordered a mounting tool from Speedway. It enables you to mount the pig onto your engine stand. And i also recommend ordering a couple of crush sleeves just in case. They are inexpensive. George B
Thanks George. That's definitely something I will be looking into. Unfortunately for this buuld I have completed the rear end. But I'm sure this won't be the last Ford 9in I do.
I subscribed on your first video because I have a 1960 square bird. just keep your videos informative as u are , and entertaining. If u build it that will sub.
easy way to get the bearing off - hit the bearing retainer on 4 points around the diameter with a cold chisel - this will notch the bearing retainer and cause it to slightly expand - doing this on 4 points will expand it enough to easily pry off after which the bearing can be removed with ease. (old trick I learned from an old mechanic)
im working on a 67 mustang. i installed an explorer 8.8. width was spot on. only issue im concerned with is pinion offset. it does look like it will clear as long as i dont haul a dozen people around with a 10k trailer. i just pulled a ford 9” from a 68 mustang gt. i really want to set it up to run. only issue is ill have to buy another 4 point rear link to set it up. not sure i can salvage the welded axle connection. im gonna rebuild it regardless. i want to run a limited slip. probably will keep the stock axles. and im almost certain they are 28 spline.
i have a '70 f100 body swapped onto a '78 f150 chassis, rebuilt everything myself, next i want to go from stock gear (2.79 i think) probably to 3.50 . very helpful video thanks
Nice video. I’ve got to rebuild a buddies 9in and I’ve never dealt with one before so thanks for the video, I know what I’m getting in to. His has a locker so I wonder what else it’s going to involve for the rebuild.
I'm Glad it could help you. I didn’t get into the spider gears on mine so unless you're going to break down the gears you shouldn't have to worry about them. I was just trying to get all the seals and bearings replaced..
@@Exit45Restorations the bearing caps with the adjuster in them for setting the ring gear to pinion gear wear pattern. Just finished your assembly video looks like it went back together relatively easy. Oddly enough I have just torn down my 9” for a rebuild.
Hey. I see I didn't get that in the video. Sorry I try to show everything if possible. I had to find something to tap the race out. I think I used punch or somthing from the back side. Just took it easy and slow. I don't think it was very difficult to get out.
Hey.. the ford 9in doesn't have the c clip like the chevy 12 bolt does. You cant take the third member out until the axels come out. The axels are held in by those T bolts at the hubs
@@JayDubCustoms Nope. Just tap them back in and secure them with the T bolts and the plate. I have a video putting them back in if you want to look at it.
Nah, it's a 9" in all Flair birds and purportedly a Nodular. Later big birds could have had something else and I think trucks had an odd, slightly bigger diff that there are few parts or gears avail. for.
You neglected to take the differential section apart. On high mileage units you will find that the wear shims on the side gears will be very thin and need to be replaced.
I too have a 64 bird. When I had a shop go through the diff, the dealer got a little excited and told him its ID tag came back as being Nodular. So that's one strong rear end!
Thanks for the info Scott. What was it on the ID tag the told him that?
@@Exit45Restorations I'm not sure. The shop doing the work had to order a part from the Ford dealer and the dealer parts guy told him that. I don't know if he derived it from the tag or not,
Ok. Thanks for the info and I will look into it and see what I can find.
Should mark your bearing retainers
@@ScottDLR 64 was a good year for Ford. The T-bird, Galaxie, Fairlane and Falcon models all looked cool that year.
Im getting ready to probably rebuild the rear in my 72 Mercury same rear
Now you know what not to do.. lol. I really enjoyed the rebuild and I hope yours goes good for you.
Hello. When i did the rear end of my 66, i ordered a mounting tool from Speedway. It enables you to mount the pig onto your engine stand. And i also recommend ordering a couple of crush sleeves just in case. They are inexpensive.
George B
Thanks George. That's definitely something I will be looking into. Unfortunately for this buuld I have completed the rear end. But I'm sure this won't be the last Ford 9in I do.
I subscribed on your first video because I have a 1960 square bird. just keep your videos informative as u are , and entertaining. If u build it that will sub.
Thanks for the word of encouragement! I really love getting out to the shop to work on the 64 and hope it is helpful and entertaining to others.
easy way to get the bearing off - hit the bearing retainer on 4 points around the diameter with a cold chisel - this will notch the bearing retainer and cause it to slightly expand - doing this on 4 points will expand it enough to easily pry off after which the bearing can be removed with ease. (old trick I learned from an old mechanic)
Thanks for the tip. I will definitely give that a try on the next one.
At 8:15 zoomed in on the axle, sure looks like you cut into it getting that race off. If so it will fail at that spot, suggest replacing it.
im working on a 67 mustang. i installed an explorer 8.8. width was spot on. only issue im concerned with is pinion offset. it does look like it will clear as long as i dont haul a dozen people around with a 10k trailer. i just pulled a ford 9” from a 68 mustang gt. i really want to set it up to run. only issue is ill have to buy another 4 point rear link to set it up. not sure i can salvage the welded axle connection. im gonna rebuild it regardless. i want to run a limited slip. probably will keep the stock axles. and im almost certain they are 28 spline.
Sounds like you have job on your hands. Good luck on those axels.
i have a '70 f100 body swapped onto a '78 f150 chassis, rebuilt everything myself, next i want to go from stock gear (2.79 i think) probably to 3.50 . very helpful video thanks
Sounds like a fun project. Good luck and thanks for the comment.
Nice video. I’ve got to rebuild a buddies 9in and I’ve never dealt with one before so thanks for the video, I know what I’m getting in to. His has a locker so I wonder what else it’s going to involve for the rebuild.
I'm Glad it could help you. I didn’t get into the spider gears on mine so unless you're going to break down the gears you shouldn't have to worry about them. I was just trying to get all the seals and bearings replaced..
Besides looking like it was in a swamp and needing a fluid change what was wrong with it?
Just the bearings. I didn't want to reuse them so I replaced them and the seals
Hammer and a rag dude.
Hey. Not sure what you're referring to in the video
Head mounted camera please. Watch your views go up!
Stripping things down never is hard. Getting them back together right can be. Did you mark the caps so they go back on the same side?
What caps are you referring to?
@@Exit45Restorations the bearing caps with the adjuster in them for setting the ring gear to pinion gear wear pattern. Just finished your assembly video looks like it went back together relatively easy. Oddly enough I have just torn down my 9” for a rebuild.
@56WagonWheel ah ok. Yes they were kept on the same side.
Thanks for doing this vid
How ever did you remove the bearing races from the pinion retainer?
Hey. I see I didn't get that in the video. Sorry I try to show everything if possible. I had to find something to tap the race out. I think I used punch or somthing from the back side. Just took it easy and slow. I don't think it was very difficult to get out.
So, before you took the 2 axles out with the pry bar, is there not a C clip removed first inside the diff?
Hey.. the ford 9in doesn't have the c clip like the chevy 12 bolt does. You cant take the third member out until the axels come out. The axels are held in by those T bolts at the hubs
@@Exit45Restorations Cool. Do you need a special tool to put the axles back in with new bearings?
@@JayDubCustoms Nope. Just tap them back in and secure them with the T bolts and the plate. I have a video putting them back in if you want to look at it.
@@Exit45Restorations Ok, thanks! Send me the video link. 🤙
@@Exit45Restorations I acquired my Dad’s 75 Ford F100 long bed. I think it’s the 3300 rear end. Does that sound right?
Why not put an equa lok or trac lok in there?
This car is going to be a crouser and it didn't really need it.. I have other builds that will get that.
I pretty sure it’s not a Ford 9 inch rear end. From what I understand it’s some kind of 9 1/8 or 3/8. Ford came up with.
Interesting... I didn't even know they made those.
Nah, it's a 9" in all Flair birds and purportedly a Nodular. Later big birds could have had something else and I think trucks had an odd, slightly bigger diff that there are few parts or gears avail. for.