The first time I took mine apart I did the same thing he did. Then when I finally got the axle out I looked at it and noticed the hole that would be perfect for a socket to fit through.
It never gets old seeing the true customizer of custom parts keep customizing everything he touches.. your a legend. Love the channel and the hard work.
@@DEBOSSGARAGE thank you.. I spent 5 years out of the business, I used to fix and restore 77 to 96 Ford trucks.. and I'm slowly finding my hands again . I don't know if I'll ever make a business of it on a day to day basis once more but I'll keep doing my own major repairs just because if your not filthy your not rich... . Alot of it was just you being a genuine mechanic. I forgot how fun it was and how much it got me to get up everyday.. I'm a city mile 37yrs old.. lately I don't feel as old anymore. Be safe and don't hit nothing but the brakes out there. Your an inspiration. If your ever around Tampa I hope I find a way to shake your hand just for a simple thank you and a big dinner is on me.
Ford axles have a hole in them so you can use an impact, or ratchet to remove the retaining nuts, just rotate it around and you can get all 4 nuts very easy😎
Rich, right at about 4:27 when you started talking about the brake conversion and how it's important to upgrade the braking power to match to go power...not many folks think that way. It's just as important to WHOA as it is to GO!
Rich…two videos in one week…I couldn’t have asked for anything better. Love the content…excited to see the Bronco back from paint, the 55, C10, and waiting to see the wrap up on the F-tree-kitty! Best channel on you tube! Take care and God bless…David.
I'm sure you noticed after you said the 9" is high pinion you had it upside down, the 9" is actually a low pinion. Great video, I'm getting ready to go through one for my 61 F100 4x4 upgrading from a small bearing axle. I've love watching this Bronco build.
Just wanted to compliment a Great Canadian that is made a channel very very very professional and it looks and feels as good as anybody's on TH-cam! Being from BC it's just great from my point of view to have a great Canadian be doing good work and giving a good quality build each time he does it!! All the best from Surrey BC Canada
"Borrow Grandpa's old Lincoln AC stick welder in the corner..." Yep. Now it's in the corner of my garage! Pretty sure those things never die. They just get passed on. 😁
Some hot rodders like to gusset the rear of the pumpkin and drag racers truss the whole thing from flange to flange . One thing you might consider next time , install a drain plug . Nice work Rich , keep it up . 🙂
Watching this and loving it. That Baer Rotor sure looks super beefy. Just a little better than OEM, eh? Pricey yes but I guess it's buy the best once and cry once. Stop On A Dime surely.
First time I’ve seen an in-depth video and an explanation on the popularity of the Ford 9”. Looks like a much easier set up than some GM diffs. Might have to upgrade my C10 with one!
years ago, i used to drag race my daily. Roll up to the track, hop it up on the jack stands, 5 lugs per wheel, four bolts per axle, two for the drive and ten for the pumpkin, roll the street-able 3.23's out, drop in the posi 4.11's, reverse the process, switch to the fuel cell, give the dizzy a twist, and voila. an afternoon of fun... reverse the whole process and drive home dirty happy and truly satisfied. I caught shit from almost all of the trailer queen guys, and got some crazy envious looks from the built-to-barely street-able Chevy and Dodge guys, but my little F-100 kept it simple and me happy. The only real learning curve was the timing offset. but two fingernail paint marks when i got her good, stayed pretty true.
My grand dad's R2-D2 stick welder was actually stuck on one setting and I used it quite a bit growing up. It worked pretty good...then I bought a Hobart stick welder then officially retired R2-D2 back to the corner of the garage. 😂
Rich thanks for another excellent video. I struggled with a Chevy differential until finally giving up and taking it to a shop but when you put it together yourself you know every detail and can enjoy it that much more when you’re tearing up the track.
Axle depth into carrier . 1st I use painters/masking tape to get a rough measurement . 2nd use a ""special tool dog bone "" insert axle and take measurement from axle end to window in dog bone ,,lathe cut to suit . 3rd check your work ..... Once u have axles with bearing assembled install axle NO COLLAR YET and measure end float . Machine seal surface by hand on wet/dry paper to get end float . Once done press on collar . GM tapered roller are available with different thickness seals . Always had to machine seal
Yep, my welder is an old Lincoln AC/DC bought at an estate sale for $125 w/long cables. Been doing me well for 15 years now. That went a bit smoother than the California driveway build. 👍👍
because the 9" pinion engages the ring gear very low, 2 pinion gear-teeth are meshed with the ring gear at all times. That results in more friction/heat being generated, and less hp getting out to the axles.
Hahaha man all I have is the old stick welder. It gets me by for the repairs I make. So far I have been too cheap to buy my own MIG and I haven't actually needed one although they are obviously way easier to use. Someday I'll buy one.
BTW although the limited slip additive doesn't do any damage, it does reduce effectiveness of truetracs. They need some friction to work, so gear oil without the additive works better. Try it out and see, if the truetrac doesn't live up to your expectations just try a different gear oil.
Hey bud… BAER will tell you to use studs with a shoulder on them and not mount the rotors on the thread, the rotor will move under hard braking apparently…. Interesting approach to the way you did this, certainly not how I do it but you got same result 👍👍👍 Looking forward to seeing it finished
And if you can't borrow a welder to get the race out, here's what I did on my Jeep. Can of air duster, turned upside down, spray it until the race is frozen and it popped right out.
One thing you can do is get a 1/4 driver extension like what plumbers use for spade bits, then it won't fall off because it has some set screws to keep the end in place.
Unless those aren't the correct axles for that housing you shouldn't have needed to cut them. And Eaton does state the true trac will not work optimally with the limited slip additive added in as it works by sensing the friction load. The additive will throw it off.
When removing the 4 axle retainer nuts to remove axles, use the hole in between the wheel studs to remove the 4 axle retainer nuts. That's what it's there for !
I have a 44 spline Currie built 9” with a spool. Disc brakes I would let go for about what you have in this diff. And a matching front Dana with track lock for not much more. I had it in a 71 k-10
axle tapered roller end float .000---.012 new bearing . Max allowable used .024 Machine lip of mounting seal edge. Use Loktite either shaft LOk or bearing mount mid strength on splines of wheel studs . Baer brakes way better than some Wilwood versions .
Also, you will need a longer drive shaft for the 9 inch. The pinion doesn’t stick out as far. (That Yoke you are using might make up for the difference though.)
Measure once…. Surprised you’ve not invested in a Tape Boss…Dunno but some geezer invented one a few years back. Might be still available if you are very lucky… 🤔😏
lol I have to Oregon. Oreg-en or Oreg-in not so much Ore-gone But on a more serious note. I've never seen a 9" ran as a high pinion, I think you have it upside down. They do make a "Hi9". Am I wrong? I would love to have a high pinion 9" but I literally just built my regular full width like you did.
Respectfully, Are the parking brake brackets/ backing plates upside down? If there were drums, I would get it.... Most of the Wilwood and Baer kits I have installed through the years seem to have your parking brake cable located at the top... It would also leave that hole at the bottom so water does not develop at the bottom... I have also not seen this style where they slot the backing plate, new design?
Shock mounts on that 9 inch are the same as what’s on your Bronco. Unless someone changed the set up of your Bronco. The shock mounts are in the same place pretty much from 1978 to 1996 on all the Broncos and F150’s.
The 9” isn’t a high pinion. Unless you buy an aftermarket from Currie. The one you are using is clearly a factory style low pinion. The Dana 44 you have for the front is high pinion though.
You are so good at masculine mythology speeches, it’s a shame you aren’t doing voice overs for pickup truck commercials (Yes I realize you were being sarcastic when you were talking about the welder).
So let me make sure I have this correct. In Canada you have a nice heated garage with all the tools. California you have a driveway and NOTHING else, deer sorry. One place you build a 9 inch, the other you buy one complete.
There is a HOLE in the axle flange between the studs AND that's so you can put a scocket through to get the 4 nuts off. you didn't need to do what you did.
Kinda sad, but i made more consistently nicer welds with the old Lincoln buzzbox than with my newfangled mig. Get lazy, get sloppy. But, a grinder and paint will make a welder what he ain't.
Avoid summit racing.....ive been working on my 66 gto conv. They sent me wrong parts 4 times....and cust service is non existant.....then i bought from jegs.....same result....wrong parts....no c/s.....brutal....tomk fdny
@@eddierotary yeah...they suk....the steering box add says 36 splines....it showed up...had 31....i called them about it....add still shows 36 splines...they wont change it.....they would rather pay shipping costs to return it....f in idiots
DEBOSS GARAGE....In fact the real reason the 9inch is in just about everything is that is stronger than most everything out there....as the oinion gear shaft is supported at both ends resulting in less pinion deflection and therefore more strenght...just saying...
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You know deep sockets fit through the hole in the wheel flange to remove the axle retainer bolts!
Came here to leave the same comment
Same here, worked at a dealership, done a ton of them. Got to beat flat rate.
Same here!!! I was going to say the same thing. That and the 9 inch is not a High pinion.
The first time I took mine apart I did the same thing he did. Then when I finally got the axle out I looked at it and noticed the hole that would be perfect for a socket to fit through.
@@bearfoot25 It's a high pinion if the rear end is upside down, like in the beginning of the video lol
It never gets old seeing the true customizer of custom parts keep customizing everything he touches.. your a legend. Love the channel and the hard work.
thanks man
@@DEBOSSGARAGE thank you.. I spent 5 years out of the business, I used to fix and restore 77 to 96 Ford trucks.. and I'm slowly finding my hands again
. I don't know if I'll ever make a business of it on a day to day basis once more but I'll keep doing my own major repairs just because if your not filthy your not rich... . Alot of it was just you being a genuine mechanic. I forgot how fun it was and how much it got me to get up everyday.. I'm a city mile 37yrs old.. lately I don't feel as old anymore. Be safe and don't hit nothing but the brakes out there. Your an inspiration. If your ever around Tampa I hope I find a way to shake your hand just for a simple thank you and a big dinner is on me.
Hell yeah Baby, DeBoss is in da house!!!!! Keep on dropping Vids Aaron. Absolutely loving the content of late Rich!!! ♥️♥️😎😎💯
Anxious to see the Bronco come back from the body shop with a new paint. That is going to one of a kind Bronco.
the video is getting edited right now, but it is back home pretty well out back together
Ford axles have a hole in them so you can use an impact, or ratchet to remove the retaining nuts, just rotate it around and you can get all 4 nuts very easy😎
Rich, right at about 4:27 when you started talking about the brake conversion and how it's important to upgrade the braking power to match to go power...not many folks think that way. It's just as important to WHOA as it is to GO!
Rich…two videos in one week…I couldn’t have asked for anything better. Love the content…excited to see the Bronco back from paint, the 55, C10, and waiting to see the wrap up on the F-tree-kitty! Best channel on you tube! Take care and God bless…David.
The true easy way is to have someone else do it. Keep up the cool videos.
YES, 100% I'd be lost doing this rear.
I'm sure you noticed after you said the 9" is high pinion you had it upside down, the 9" is actually a low pinion. Great video, I'm getting ready to go through one for my 61 F100 4x4 upgrading from a small bearing axle. I've love watching this Bronco build.
Can't wait to see it come back from paint
Just wanted to compliment a Great Canadian that is made a channel very very very professional and it looks and feels as good as anybody's on TH-cam! Being from BC it's just great from my point of view to have a great Canadian be doing good work and giving a good quality build each time he does it!!
All the best from Surrey BC Canada
thanks eh!
Check out Make it custom,from BC and Halfass Kustoms from Manitoba
"Borrow Grandpa's old Lincoln AC stick welder in the corner..." Yep. Now it's in the corner of my garage! Pretty sure those things never die. They just get passed on. 😁
haha thats funny :D
As a farmer who only ever uses a lincoln stick welder.. it is true.. my boys will learn how to weld with it, and it will be theirs eventually..
Some hot rodders like to gusset the rear of the pumpkin and drag racers truss the whole thing from flange to flange . One thing you might consider next time , install a drain plug . Nice work Rich , keep it up . 🙂
Killer can't wait to see the bronc all done up 👍
Watching this and loving it. That Baer Rotor sure looks super beefy. Just a little better than OEM, eh? Pricey yes but I guess it's buy the best once and cry once. Stop On A Dime surely.
First time I’ve seen an in-depth video and an explanation on the popularity of the Ford 9”. Looks like a much easier set up than some GM diffs. Might have to upgrade my C10 with one!
years ago, i used to drag race my daily. Roll up to the track, hop it up on the jack stands, 5 lugs per wheel, four bolts per axle, two for the drive and ten for the pumpkin, roll the street-able 3.23's out, drop in the posi 4.11's, reverse the process, switch to the fuel cell, give the dizzy a twist, and voila. an afternoon of fun... reverse the whole process and drive home dirty happy and truly satisfied. I caught shit from almost all of the trailer queen guys, and got some crazy envious looks from the built-to-barely street-able Chevy and Dodge guys, but my little F-100 kept it simple and me happy. The only real learning curve was the timing offset. but two fingernail paint marks when i got her good, stayed pretty true.
All this time into this series and I still can't get over how good that damn intro is.
(They all are)
I represent the remark about the stick welder in the corner Rich! 😁 I do have a mig welder now though.
Great video. Enjoyed watching ✌️ 😎
I love the intro music. Not only is it period correct for the Bronco, but also period correct for me. 😎
What is the song on soundcloud?
Ball joint press and a 1/2 impact works awesome for installing wheel studs
Another awesome video 👊
Can't wait to see this think after She's painted.
My grand dad's R2-D2 stick welder was actually stuck on one setting and I used it quite a bit growing up. It worked pretty good...then I bought a Hobart stick welder then officially retired R2-D2 back to the corner of the garage. 😂
Nice of Baer to make calipers in Juice Box Brown for you
Rich thanks for another excellent video. I struggled with a Chevy differential until finally giving up and taking it to a shop but when you put it together yourself you know every detail and can enjoy it that much more when you’re tearing up the track.
Axle depth into carrier . 1st I use painters/masking tape to get a rough measurement . 2nd use a ""special tool dog bone "" insert axle and take measurement from axle end to window in dog bone ,,lathe cut to suit . 3rd check your work ..... Once u have axles with bearing assembled install axle NO COLLAR YET and measure end float . Machine seal surface by hand on wet/dry paper to get end float . Once done press on collar . GM tapered roller are available with different thickness seals . Always had to machine seal
Aaron is the best editor on TH-cam, bar none.
Yep, my welder is an old Lincoln AC/DC bought at an estate sale for $125 w/long cables. Been doing me well for 15 years now. That went a bit smoother than the California driveway build. 👍👍
Love this channel. So inspiring
because the 9" pinion engages the ring gear very low, 2 pinion gear-teeth are meshed with the ring gear at all times. That results in more friction/heat being generated, and less hp getting out to the axles.
Lets do this!!
loved the welder comment!
Thank you you saved me a lot of ti built Several 9" in my lifetime none with this break
Bitchin! Love ya Rich! Can't wait to see Juice Box together!!!
Great video 👍If you borrow your dad's or granddad's old stick welder then use it to weld the old collars or bearing's and then knock them off.
Hahaha man all I have is the old stick welder. It gets me by for the repairs I make. So far I have been too cheap to buy my own MIG and I haven't actually needed one although they are obviously way easier to use. Someday I'll buy one.
Great informative video
Always learning from you
Thanks for sharing
BTW although the limited slip additive doesn't do any damage, it does reduce effectiveness of truetracs. They need some friction to work, so gear oil without the additive works better. Try it out and see, if the truetrac doesn't live up to your expectations just try a different gear oil.
It's still a 9". 8 lug full floating swap for life!
When using a tape measure and starting at the 1" mark, we always call it "burning an inch". Not sure why, just what we've always said!
Haha, I saw what you went through with the California trip, stay safe friend.
Great job
beautiful!
Hoping to see your projects at the show
That ain't no pumpkin, boy. That there's a hogshead.
Hey bud… BAER will tell you to use studs with a shoulder on them and not mount the rotors on the thread, the rotor will move under hard braking apparently….
Interesting approach to the way you did this, certainly not how I do it but you got same result 👍👍👍
Looking forward to seeing it finished
And if you can't borrow a welder to get the race out, here's what I did on my Jeep. Can of air duster, turned upside down, spray it until the race is frozen and it popped right out.
One thing you can do is get a 1/4 driver extension like what plumbers use for spade bits, then it won't fall off because it has some set screws to keep the end in place.
"... not going to paint the axel now... we can paint it anytime"
*poof*
Axel is suddenly painted.
Feel like something might've been missed. 😉
Unless those aren't the correct axles for that housing you shouldn't have needed to cut them. And Eaton does state the true trac will not work optimally with the limited slip additive added in as it works by sensing the friction load. The additive will throw it off.
That's funny for the Lincoln welder have the corner on my dad's little work area and is now mine not even a month or so ago
NOT THE ORANGE SILICONE 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
When removing the 4 axle retainer nuts to remove axles, use the hole in between the wheel studs to remove the 4 axle retainer nuts. That's what it's there for !
@DEBOSSGARAGE1
I have a 44 spline Currie built 9” with a spool. Disc brakes I would let go for about what you have in this diff. And a matching front Dana with track lock for not much more. I had it in a 71 k-10
axle tapered roller end float .000---.012 new bearing . Max allowable used .024
Machine lip of mounting seal edge.
Use Loktite either shaft LOk or bearing mount mid strength on splines of wheel studs .
Baer brakes way better than some Wilwood versions .
40 inch Boggers or Super Swampers on 15 in rims would be cool.
Underdogs by Matthew Good Band was a great album.
"You're more manly than me." Awesome heritage.
You can use brushes for boiler flue to clean out axle tubes.
I do it twice for you guys. Nice recovery !....lol
Also, you will need a longer drive shaft for the 9 inch. The pinion doesn’t stick out as far. (That Yoke you are using might make up for the difference though.)
The hole in the hole in the hub is to get your extension through, you could use power tools.
Try a chimney brush to clean your housings.
Brother, You need Lubelocker diff gaskets. Trust me 😆
The 1979-1994 toyota 4x4 pickup has an axle like the 9 inch tough as nails
To remove the actual retainer bolts there’s a hole in the axle you can use a socket next time and extension and impact
Measure once….
Surprised you’ve not invested in a Tape Boss…Dunno but some geezer invented one a few years back. Might be still available if you are very lucky… 🤔😏
Rich, that would be my uncle selling crap about your welding [but probably not]. He TIG welded subs during WWII. All the welds needed to be perfect.
Side note, the Ford 9 inch although being strong , it has the most friction when compared to other ring and pinion designs.
lol I have to Oregon. Oreg-en or Oreg-in not so much Ore-gone
But on a more serious note. I've never seen a 9" ran as a high pinion, I think you have it upside down. They do make a "Hi9". Am I wrong? I would love to have a high pinion 9" but I literally just built my regular full width like you did.
" N " is nodular iron casting..very strong.
Respectfully, Are the parking brake brackets/ backing plates upside down? If there were drums, I would get it.... Most of the Wilwood and Baer kits I have installed through the years seem to have your parking brake cable located at the top... It would also leave that hole at the bottom so water does not develop at the bottom... I have also not seen this style where they slot the backing plate, new design?
Rather than beat the wheel studs in place use a nut and hardened washers to PULL the stud through the flange.
Cool, but the driveway version was actually more entertaining.🤷♂️
a lot more fun with friends too
Shock mounts on that 9 inch are the same as what’s on your Bronco. Unless someone changed the set up of your Bronco. The shock mounts are in the same place pretty much from 1978 to 1996 on all the Broncos and F150’s.
So are you filling the gear oil with the axle upside down? Thought you said it was a high pinion gear set? It's low when you filled it.
Old dodge front loads have a hole axles to bolts out flanges.
7:10 for some reason I'm getting flashbacks to peg breaking a front axle and just shoving all of the mud and sh!t right into the diff
You do realize that the large hole in the axle is for taking out the bearing plate bolts
yeah, used it to tighten it again. I'm learning too!
Hey,brain farts are the way of life! Also hi from Saskatchewan 👍🏻
I just used a hammer and punch to reinstall my bearings press is nice but not necessary.
I did the same thing on my 67 and my cousin showed me the hole in the flange
Are the rotors backwards?
Yes, a good video with just Rich. No goofy guess ......
Please Note --Deboss Garage will now be known as FORD NINE INCH Garage--
@debossgarage which project was it where you got some super nice looking custom made headers? I think it was for a truck build but I can’t find it
There’s a hole in the axle so you can use a socket instead of a wrench
The 9” isn’t a high pinion. Unless you buy an aftermarket from Currie. The one you are using is clearly a factory style low pinion. The Dana 44 you have for the front is high pinion though.
You are so good at masculine mythology speeches, it’s a shame you aren’t doing voice overs for pickup truck commercials (Yes I realize you were being sarcastic when you were talking about the welder).
👍
High pinion stronger on the front, low pinion stronger on the back.
So let me make sure I have this correct. In Canada you have a nice heated garage with all the tools. California you have a driveway and NOTHING else, deer sorry. One place you build a 9 inch, the other you buy one complete.
There is a HOLE in the axle flange between the studs AND that's so you can put a scocket through to get the 4 nuts off. you didn't need to do what you did.
easy way spending 4k meh find junkyard 10.25 with locker or limited slip option for 38 or larger
Kinda sad, but i made more consistently nicer welds with the old Lincoln buzzbox than with my newfangled mig. Get lazy, get sloppy. But, a grinder and paint will make a welder what he ain't.
Avoid summit racing.....ive been working on my 66 gto conv. They sent me wrong parts 4 times....and cust service is non existant.....then i bought from jegs.....same result....wrong parts....no c/s.....brutal....tomk fdny
Sounds like you ordered the wrong parts
@@rileycopple7896 5 times.
I order from both and i never had any issues. Same time i do my research before i buy anything anyways
@@rileycopple7896 i know what i orderrd....they confirmed fitment....but of courss....it didnt
@@eddierotary yeah...they suk....the steering box add says 36 splines....it showed up...had 31....i called them about it....add still shows 36 splines...they wont change it.....they would rather pay shipping costs to return it....f in idiots
There is no E on the end of Oregon. It's still here.
Frickin canAdians
DEBOSS GARAGE....In fact the real reason the 9inch is in just about everything is that is stronger than most everything out there....as the oinion gear shaft is supported at both ends resulting in less pinion deflection and therefore more strenght...just saying...
BRONCOTE