A little trick I learned from an engine builder, instead of using regular oil or assy lube, he would use the STP oil treatment, it comes in these little blue bottles, and most gas stations have it. It's extremely thick and slippery, and it wont easily wash away. And the rotating assy isn't too hard to turn over. I tried it on the last engine rebuild I did, and I loved it. It's my goto assembly lube now.
Hi my bearings and thrust washers came in today and on the package for the thrust washer it doesn't have my engine code F22A1 but on the listing it on the website it does. Can you help verify I have the correct part number for thrust washers and also main and rod bearings? Please see part number below: Thrust Washer: 1T1957-STD Connecting Rods: 4B1906H-STD Main Bearings: 5M1957H-STD
It's correct, you'll good to go man. If you still have the old thrust bearings, you can compare it befiore using it. But all parts you ordered are correct. Have fun building your G. Later
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for confirming man! All I need to do now is check the bearings clearance and I'm ready to start assembly. Wish me luck first doing this. Lol
I dont see why not, it's the same built like a regular H22, H23a and F20b. But use a piston that have a 30.0mm ht like k20a2 or special order one, coz using H22 piston will stick out. Something w/ much bigger bore and extra ordinary build will be a waste if not done correctly, l think. Having a piston wrist offset on piston bigger than 87mm will be a great help on F23 crank inside the block.
Plz respond! Im so confused the F has a 97 mm of atroke n the H has a 90 mm stroke my question is wouldn't the valve n piston smack each other???? Also are you using the H ecu?
The F23 crank have shorter rods and H22 piston height is 31mm. That's the reason why if you use that combination, the piston will stick out 0.020" pass the block whether it's f23 block, f20b, h22 or h23a block. On my stroker build, l modified the piston. I shaved the face and the crown relief that way everything is normal. People have built it w/o modifying anything and very successfull w/ it. The 1st G23(non vtec version). He used f23 block, f23 crank n rods and used H22a4 piston w/ H23a1 cyl head. He run that engine w/ piston sticking out and very succesfull. You just cant use a much higher lift cams other than a type S cams otherwise valve will smack the piston.
H23avtec bluetop is 95mm crank throw, its rods is shorter than H22 and use a 30.5mm piston height, that way the piston will not stick out pass the block. A good combination of parts to use on H22a4 block( carbon Fiber liner) if you want to build a H stroker is to use H22a4 55mm block, F23 crank, f23 rod and use H23a bluetop piston coz h23a piston ht is 30.5mm(bit lower than H22 piston 31mm) so if parts combo is used. The piston doesnt stick out a lot pass the block and it has the correct location of wrist pin offset, its like f23 piston pin offset. Hope this will help you out a bit. Most of my build are all OE parts, so if you want to use like sk2 cams, then more clearance check need to be perform. Msg me if you need other info and no worries at all. Thanks
The H22 rods will not fit the F23 crank. F23 crank rod journal is smaller than H22. Ecu l use is P28 w/ h22a4 fuel basemap. I ran it till everything working good( got all the bugs) then l have ot tuned on dyno. P13 ecu can also be use but it'll be looking for a lot of sensors but if you have all the sensor that p13 require, like ks, iab then you can run it till you fix everything and get a tune. You can use p28 w/ hondata s300 if you like that way, you can download a h22 fuel basemap and if you know how to tune it, it'll be better.
I used H22a4 55mm main bearings, it's the same bearing for F23 and D16. I have shown how l modified the pistons on one of my vlog w/ tittle "H22a4 piston w/ F23 connecting rods". Always count for connecting rod looseness and crank when spacing the nozzle to the piston. It might require some bending to have space on the crank also.
@@sagittnet2158 okay thank you for the information in the first part i have an f23 with brand new bearings im just going to switch everything over crank wise to my a4 but it looks like for the video you mentioned that you modified h22a4 pistons im planning on using k20 would i still have to do the same or would i just have to slightly bend only ?
@@TheKJD14 I f your H22a4 is 55mm main (98-2001) it'll be no oroblem at all. As far as the k20 piston and squirters, you dont really have to use the squirters and l haven't look or check the k20 piston if it'll clear the nozzle nor if you can shave it also. But l do have a OE k20 type s that l can check. You know l just remembered, not sure if you know that H22a4 have FrM, not sure if yours are already been iron re-sleeve. If you stll have the frm sleeve, l recommend not to use K20 piston, coz it might give you a problem in the long run. Not sure if you've seen my video about H23vtec (bluetop) piston, thats the best piston to use on this setup in my opinion. No need to flip piston 180 degree and it has a perfect wrist pin offset like F23 piston and also piston height is perfect too. Too bad they dont sell it on Honda dealership unless you buy it abroad.
@@TheKJD14 If you can get a good used H23vtec piston, that'll be awesome. Just dont forget to plug the oil port for the squirters if your not using it.
A little trick I learned from an engine builder, instead of using regular oil or assy lube, he would use the STP oil treatment, it comes in these little blue bottles, and most gas stations have it. It's extremely thick and slippery, and it wont easily wash away. And the rotating assy isn't too hard to turn over. I tried it on the last engine rebuild I did, and I loved it. It's my goto assembly lube now.
I might check/ use it out when l put it together. I check the price and it's almost the same as what assy lube l used. Thanks bruh!
My favorite car from you is the white accord. I wish you had built an odyssey, 1st gen. Tell your fam I said hi.
I miss working on Snoe too but you'll see her soon,hehehe. Definitely will, take care bud.
I agree, that white Accord is awesome. Sounds so nice, and such a clean car.
Thanks for the video, you make it look so easy.
Thank you, l also make mistake like every other builders, not immuned lol! I always thought that l shared my mishaps also, it's part of the build.
@@sagittnet2158 You are talented... I am watching all your videos so I can do an Engine rebuild on my 5th Gen Lude.
@@uzisaune glad I got you motivated! thanks
Hi my bearings and thrust washers came in today and on the package for the thrust washer it doesn't have my engine code F22A1 but on the listing it on the website it does. Can you help verify I have the correct part number for thrust washers and also main and rod bearings? Please see part number below:
Thrust Washer: 1T1957-STD
Connecting Rods: 4B1906H-STD
Main Bearings: 5M1957H-STD
It's correct, you'll good to go man. If you still have the old thrust bearings, you can compare it befiore using it. But all parts you ordered are correct. Have fun building your G. Later
@@sagittnet2158 Thanks for confirming man! All I need to do now is check the bearings clearance and I'm ready to start assembly. Wish me luck first doing this. Lol
@@Open90 You'll be ok, just give it a clean (plastigauge residue) afterwards and lots of assy lube or oil on final build.
@@sagittnet2158 Thank you very much!
Good work brother
Thanks
Will this work with built head, 89mm pistons, darton sleeves?
I dont see why not, it's the same built like a regular H22, H23a and F20b. But use a piston that have a 30.0mm ht like k20a2 or special order one, coz using H22 piston will stick out. Something w/ much bigger bore and extra ordinary build will be a waste if not done correctly, l think. Having a piston wrist offset on piston bigger than 87mm will be a great help on F23 crank inside the block.
l think having a bigger pistons will have less reliability compare to H22 build(89mm)
@@sagittnet2158 ok thanks, I will look more into it & ask the professionals.
Plz respond! Im so confused the F has a 97 mm of atroke n the H has a 90 mm stroke my question is wouldn't the valve n piston smack each other???? Also are you using the H ecu?
The F23 crank have shorter rods and H22 piston height is 31mm. That's the reason why if you use that combination, the piston will stick out 0.020" pass the block whether it's f23 block, f20b, h22 or h23a block. On my stroker build, l modified the piston. I shaved the face and the crown relief that way everything is normal. People have built it w/o modifying anything and very successfull w/ it. The 1st G23(non vtec version). He used f23 block, f23 crank n rods and used H22a4 piston w/ H23a1 cyl head. He run that engine w/ piston sticking out and very succesfull. You just cant use a much higher lift cams other than a type S cams otherwise valve will smack the piston.
H23avtec bluetop is 95mm crank throw, its rods is shorter than H22 and use a 30.5mm piston height, that way the piston will not stick out pass the block. A good combination of parts to use on H22a4 block( carbon
Fiber liner) if you want to build a H stroker is to use H22a4 55mm block, F23 crank, f23 rod and use H23a bluetop piston coz h23a piston ht is 30.5mm(bit lower than H22 piston 31mm) so if parts combo is used. The piston doesnt stick out a lot pass the block and it has the correct location of wrist pin offset, its like f23 piston pin offset. Hope this will help you out a bit. Most of my build are all OE parts, so if you want to use like sk2 cams, then more clearance check need to be perform. Msg me if you need other info and no worries at all. Thanks
The H22 rods will not fit the F23 crank. F23 crank rod journal is smaller than H22. Ecu l use is P28 w/ h22a4 fuel basemap. I ran it till everything working good( got all the bugs) then l have ot tuned on dyno. P13 ecu can also be use but it'll be looking for a lot of sensors but if you have all the sensor that p13 require, like ks, iab then you can run it till you fix everything and get a tune. You can use p28 w/ hondata s300 if you like that way, you can download a h22 fuel basemap and if you know how to tune it, it'll be better.
Did you use f23 main and rod bearings for the a4 block or did you use a4 main bearings and also how did you modify oil squirters
I used H22a4 55mm main bearings, it's the same bearing for F23 and D16. I have shown how l modified the pistons on one of my vlog w/ tittle "H22a4 piston w/ F23 connecting rods". Always count for connecting rod looseness and crank when spacing the nozzle to the piston. It might require some bending to have space on the crank also.
@@sagittnet2158 okay thank you for the information in the first part i have an f23 with brand new bearings im just going to switch everything over crank wise to my a4 but it looks like for the video you mentioned that you modified h22a4 pistons im planning on using k20 would i still have to do the same or would i just have to slightly bend only ?
@@TheKJD14 I f your H22a4 is 55mm main (98-2001) it'll be no oroblem at all. As far as the k20 piston and squirters, you dont really have to use the squirters and l haven't look or check the k20 piston if it'll clear the nozzle nor if you can shave it also. But l do have a OE k20 type s that l can check. You know l just remembered, not sure if you know that H22a4 have FrM, not sure if yours are already been iron re-sleeve. If you stll have the frm sleeve, l recommend not to use K20 piston, coz it might give you a problem in the long run. Not sure if you've seen my video about H23vtec (bluetop) piston, thats the best piston to use on this setup in my opinion. No need to flip piston 180 degree and it has a perfect wrist pin offset like F23 piston and also piston height is perfect too. Too bad they dont sell it on Honda dealership unless you buy it abroad.
@@TheKJD14 If you can get a good used H23vtec piston, that'll be awesome. Just dont forget to plug the oil port for the squirters if your not using it.
@@TheKJD14 lmk if you need any info and l'll be glad to help you out, just msg me.