Lots of great information you passed along here. Thank you very much for taking the time to create this video and educating those of us DIY'ers who are try to figure it out.
I was going to go get a tap and die set because I thought that's what I needed. Referenced this video before I went and realized I actually needed a thread chaser kit. Picked one up, worked flawlessly. Thank you for your knowledge!
I have the Craftsman re-threader kit. Paid $50 on sale for it at sears about 7 years ago. It is made by LANG Tools $89, and sold under Snap-on $176, and Evertough $99 while the Craftsman version is now out of production...
@@Shoptoolreviews Yes Lang Tools manufactures this set in the USA, and the rebrands of this by Snap-on, Craftsman, and Evertough are the same USA made set. But the Craftsman set is no longer being rebranded/sold/produced for a few years now, if you find one actually instock some where it will be a NOS product. There are dozens of listings for it still on alot of sites but they are not actually available, just outdated listings. Snap-on rebrands alot of the USA made Lang stuff, like the Leakdown tester and Sparkplug gapper among lots more.
Excellent tutorial, especially for a DIY'er who didn't or couldn't have the benefit of attending trade school. I once had to make a thread chaser by grinding groves on a hardened bolt and it worked quite well. Thanks for posting this.
Tim... yesterday I was thinking in getting one. You made my decision easier in one part and now the other part of heart wants both sets... I have a trouble now, which is called budget. Awesome video thanks
I ordered the thread chaser kit that you listed. I used it on a project a couple of hours after delivery. I thank you for passing along your knowledge. I used the thread file and it worked perfectly. 👍🏻
Thanks for this! I only needed one 3/8-16 thread chaser to clean up the threads for the exhaust manifolds I removed for sandblasting and high-temp painting. I found what I needed on Amazon for $8. Worked great! Glad I did not use a tap for this job. Thanks to your video, I learned that a thread chaser is the right tool for my job.
Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I have had a run of bad luck x-threading wheel lug nuts/bolts. I was wondering if I'm running aluminum nuts onto metal studs, etc. But I think the problem is that the lug bolts are not 'clean'. I didn't really understand thread chasing kit until now. You have provided me with the ammo I need to properly clean the bolts prior to threading the lug nut! Appreciate this work very much!!
This was a perfect lesson in the difference in tools as well as how to use them! I would have never thought about the back up technique with the taps; thanks for the tip. Also didn't know the difference between the tap and thread-chaser, good point about the risks of using a tap to chase the threads.
@@Shoptoolreviews Excellent video...very well detailed and explained. Question for you if you don't mind...I am trying to make external threads on 1/2" O.D. steel tubing. When I measured the tubing with my digital caliper, the 1/2" O.D. tubing that I bought measured .52". A smidge bigger than .5". My 1/2" die won't fit on it. When I measure most things with the caliper, it usually shows a measurement a bit less than the actual size (for ex... 39.98 mm instead of 40 OR 5.96 for a 6mm measurement). My 9/16" die, which is 1/16" bigger sorta fit. It may work. I was thinking about sanding the steel tubing down a bit to make the 1/2' die work OR should I try to "convince" the 9/16" die to work instead. If filing down the tubing is a better option, how do I go about doing that? Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thanks in advance...
FYI, "Tap Magic" and "CRC" cutting fluid, both had the highest lubricity, far, far above all the other tap cutting oils that were tested by Project Farm who did a test of cutting oils. Tap Magic was so slippery that it eliminated 99% of wear in a hard wear "scar" test with metal against metal, it's basically a super high quality lubricating oil. After seeing how good Tap Magic is, and it's only about $5 for a bottle of it, I think I'm going to start using it for bearings and slides, because it has insanely good lubricity.
I would definitely chase threads for on the block and heads during a head gasket replacement. Some cars are in much more need than others. You definitely shouldn't hurt anything. Make sure to blow all the holes out after chasing. You don't want any fluids or solids in the bottom of any blind holes. Thanks for watching.
I believe that red rethreader was/still is made by Irwin. You can still by that exact same set, case and all, same layout, everything today from Snap On, Matco, and a couple other brands. Also thread files are amazing! The number of things I’ve salvaged, if only temporarily while we wait on the replacement part, is astounding. Awesome video as always guys I always look forward to seeing Tim’s smiling face and hearing his wise words.
I wish the kids today were knowing how simple these things are, I guarantee the bad reviews on certain sets are from people tapping a cross thread and having issues. 💯
Best video so far. My question on the chaser kit is do you only use the thread file if you can’t get the chaser threaded on? Or is the thread file for the ends of a bolt AND for light straightening of some threads? I have some axle threads that are slightly out of shape due to the nut coming off with the detent being not fully handled first. Too my surprise it’s in way better shape then it felt as I impacted it off the axle. If I still have all my threads and non are flattened or rounded off should I file it or chase it? I can get the chaser fully threaded on but it stops once fully on the axle. I didn’t continue as I wanted to research proper methods. Should I back off the chaser after each day half a turn of resistance and clean chaser and axle? I don’t want to overkill a new issue but am thinking excessive cleaning of threads and chase couldn’t hurt.
I need a metric set for my car chassis to repair the thread for the subframe. Would you know which set is the best for my situation? I need something long enough to go through the chassis about 5”.
Lube is your friend. With the right lube you can fit a big truck in the smallest spot ! I always pilot hole drill. What about pitch ? I isr the sockets for tight spots. My grandfather could just look and tell the drill bit he need . I’m not that good
You will definitely need the M10 tap to move up in size, you will also need to drill out the M18 hole first, before using the tap. Thanks for watching.
That rethread kit is a Lang and is rebranded by damn near every tool truck. It’s still available today and still made in the USA. I use taps to clean threads at my job but it’s usually because the starting threads get messed up, like hitting a pin after removing the grease zert. I used one the other day to clean out a brass fitting that broke off and just kind of melted not he threads, couldn’t strait it because it just tore it up more and a thread chaser wouldn’t start. Bottom line is you just need to be careful and pay attention.
I had never ever used a tap and die set but needed to thread a rod. Went to Autozone and asked to rent a tap and set and they rented me one. Remember, never used one b/4. After using the die I noticed the threads were very shallow. Oh-oh something wrong. Checked the kit instructions where I read that these were for thread chasing only🤣🤣🤣🤣
Been using taps and dies to clean threads for 20 years, I’m a machinist/millwright and I’ve never messed up a thread yet. Rethreaders are for amateurs.
You didn't cover taper and plug taps. The kit you showed has plug taps and 1/8 & 1/4" NPT taps. Not the same as taper taps that make straight threads but only start full cut about 9 threads in.
All files have what could be termed teeth that cut in only one direction, forwards. They have a cutting face and a relief or rake side behind. When you drag them backward under pressure you start to roll the cutting edge over thus blunting the file over time. It is poor practice to file forwards and backward on metal. Always cut forwards then release the pressure to draw the file back for the next forward stroke. I've been an engineer since 1968. It frustrates me to see people misuse and abuse tools.
But they are professional black gloves. Naw, there are a lot of you tube creators that wear disposable gloves. I think they pull them off when they need to adjust the camera, unless he has a cameraman...
Lots of great information you passed along here. Thank you very much for taking the time to create this video and educating those of us DIY'ers who are try to figure it out.
I was going to go get a tap and die set because I thought that's what I needed. Referenced this video before I went and realized I actually needed a thread chaser kit. Picked one up, worked flawlessly. Thank you for your knowledge!
I have the Craftsman re-threader kit. Paid $50 on sale for it at sears about 7 years ago. It is made by LANG Tools $89, and sold under Snap-on $176, and Evertough $99 while the Craftsman version is now out of production...
Yes, this set continues to be produced, and it has come in handy hundreds of times. This set is actually Made in the USA as well. Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews Yes Lang Tools
manufactures this set in the USA, and the rebrands of this by Snap-on, Craftsman, and Evertough are the same USA made set. But the Craftsman set is no longer being rebranded/sold/produced for a few years now, if you find one actually instock some where it will be a NOS product. There are dozens of listings for it still on alot of sites but they are not actually available, just outdated listings. Snap-on rebrands alot of the USA made Lang stuff, like the Leakdown tester and Sparkplug gapper among lots more.
😅
@edoneill6701 I thought snap on used to rebrand the Irwin set? I know they don't any more, I think they have their own in house tap set
Excellent tutorial, especially for a DIY'er who didn't or couldn't have the benefit of attending trade school. I once had to make a thread chaser by grinding groves on a hardened bolt and it worked quite well. Thanks for posting this.
Tim... yesterday I was thinking in getting one. You made my decision easier in one part and now the other part of heart wants both sets... I have a trouble now, which is called budget.
Awesome video thanks
Watched a bunch of similar videos. This was hands down the best one and most useful.
Glad it was helpful!
I ordered the thread chaser kit that you listed. I used it on a project a couple of hours after delivery. I thank you for passing along your knowledge. I used the thread file and it worked perfectly. 👍🏻
very thorough explanation and demonstration. never knew what dies actually did so this video was really helpful
Thanks for this! I only needed one 3/8-16 thread chaser to clean up the threads for the exhaust manifolds I removed for sandblasting and high-temp painting. I found what I needed on Amazon for $8. Worked great! Glad I did not use a tap for this job. Thanks to your video, I learned that a thread chaser is the right tool for my job.
Thank you for a great demo. The best demo I've seen.. I knew nothing about these tools. Now I think I know what to buy and how to use it. Many thanks
Glad that we could help. Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for this tutorial!! I have had a run of bad luck x-threading wheel lug nuts/bolts. I was wondering if I'm running aluminum nuts onto metal studs, etc. But I think the problem is that the lug bolts are not 'clean'. I didn't really understand thread chasing kit until now. You have provided me with the ammo I need to properly clean the bolts prior to threading the lug nut! Appreciate this work very much!!
Great video, have both sets but still learned a few things. Thanks for your time.
Excellent video and clear voice.
Thanks Tim for explaining how to use the thread file.
Great vid, I can now comfortably invest in a Tap & Die set...
Best video I have seen about threads
Thank you very much.
Just picked up that USA made Lang set for the same price as the Amazon chinesium sets - $68, at Fleet Farm. Mine came in a grey case.
That Lang set is resold on all the tool trucks, matco sells the grey case with matco stickers
This was a perfect lesson in the difference in tools as well as how to use them! I would have never thought about the back up technique with the taps; thanks for the tip. Also didn't know the difference between the tap and thread-chaser, good point about the risks of using a tap to chase the threads.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews Excellent video...very well detailed and explained. Question for you if you don't mind...I am trying to make external threads on 1/2" O.D. steel tubing. When I measured the tubing with my digital caliper, the 1/2" O.D. tubing that I bought measured .52". A smidge bigger than .5". My 1/2" die won't fit on it. When I measure most things with the caliper, it usually shows a measurement a bit less than the actual size (for ex... 39.98 mm instead of 40 OR 5.96 for a 6mm measurement). My 9/16" die, which is 1/16" bigger sorta fit. It may work. I was thinking about sanding the steel tubing down a bit to make the 1/2' die work OR should I try to "convince" the 9/16" die to work instead. If filing down the tubing is a better option, how do I go about doing that? Any help would be greatly appreciated...Thanks in advance...
FYI, "Tap Magic" and "CRC" cutting fluid, both had the highest lubricity, far, far above all the other tap cutting oils that were tested by Project Farm who did a test of cutting oils. Tap Magic was so slippery that it eliminated 99% of wear in a hard wear "scar" test with metal against metal, it's basically a super high quality lubricating oil. After seeing how good Tap Magic is, and it's only about $5 for a bottle of it, I think I'm going to start using it for bearings and slides, because it has insanely good lubricity.
Yes, been using Tap Magic for years on all my taps and dies when cutting. Works great and it's cheap👍
This episode was a really good video. Plus great instruction on the use of those tools.
About to do a head gasket replacement and I never understood or was sure if I needed a thread chaser, but after this it seems like a necessity for me
I would definitely chase threads for on the block and heads during a head gasket replacement. Some cars are in much more need than others. You definitely shouldn't hurt anything. Make sure to blow all the holes out after chasing. You don't want any fluids or solids in the bottom of any blind holes. Thanks for watching.
I love your videos. you put out great information, and use key words to broaden further research. Thank you
P.s. I’m a novice
Awesome, so glad we could help. Thanks for watching.
I believe that red rethreader was/still is made by Irwin. You can still by that exact same set, case and all, same layout, everything today from Snap On, Matco, and a couple other brands. Also thread files are amazing! The number of things I’ve salvaged, if only temporarily while we wait on the replacement part, is astounding. Awesome video as always guys I always look forward to seeing Tim’s smiling face and hearing his wise words.
Actually the rethreading set is made by lang an snap on rebrands it
@@eddyramirez6924 Oh ok that’s good to know, thank you!
Excellent tutorial!
I really appreciate this video. Thank you!
TJ!!! LET'S GO!!!🏁
Get both...☝️
17:34... it's good practice... you should always treat the holes like they're all dirty and need to be chased
I wish the kids today were knowing how simple these things are, I guarantee the bad reviews on certain sets are from people tapping a cross thread and having issues. 💯
I’m a big fan of the Irwin Hanson taps with the straight start. Also loving the Lang chaser kit
Yes, Irwin makes some nice kits. I'm pretty sure that LANG may make a lot of these chaser kits for other companies. Thanks for watching.
@@Shoptoolreviews thank you for the great content
Great content! It looks like the thread chaser/rethreader would work well for slightly galled stainless steel threads?
You’d have the rethreader galled in there too, there’s specific taps that are optimized for stainless
Great Video Thank you!
Best video so far. My question on the chaser kit is do you only use the thread file if you can’t get the chaser threaded on? Or is the thread file for the ends of a bolt AND for light straightening of some threads?
I have some axle threads that are slightly out of shape due to the nut coming off with the detent being not fully handled first. Too my surprise it’s in way better shape then it felt as I impacted it off the axle. If I still have all my threads and non are flattened or rounded off should I file it or chase it? I can get the chaser fully threaded on but it stops once fully on the axle. I didn’t continue as I wanted to research proper methods. Should I back off the chaser after each day half a turn of resistance and clean chaser and axle? I don’t want to overkill a new issue but am thinking excessive cleaning of threads and chase couldn’t hurt.
Exactly what I needed to know. And great demonstration! Thanks much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Great Video, thanks for putting it together.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
I need a metric set for my car chassis to repair the thread for the subframe. Would you know which set is the best for my situation? I need something long enough to go through the chassis about 5”.
Great video!
Bacon fat will work in a pinch for cutting/repairing threads.
Lube is your friend. With the right lube you can fit a big truck in the smallest spot ! I always pilot hole drill. What about pitch ? I isr the sockets for tight spots. My grandfather could just look and tell the drill bit he need . I’m not that good
@15:10 so much for going perpendicular, eh?
Great video. What if I need to go up in size? For ex: from an M8 to an M10, which one would you use? Thanks.
You will definitely need the M10 tap to move up in size, you will also need to drill out the M18 hole first, before using the tap. Thanks for watching.
Great learning video Thank you very much sir.
Awesome, thanks for guide :)
you the first one i ever seen could talk in ALL CAPS!
Good information Thanks
great now I have to spend more money lol thanks for info
Great 'class' on these
Thread chaser set, 59.00 on amazon, saved my butt today LOL
Thank you for the video
Retreating set for wheel studs
I do 1-1/2 turn forward and 1/2 turn back
Pretty cool! Thanks!
That rethread kit is a Lang and is rebranded by damn near every tool truck. It’s still available today and still made in the USA. I use taps to clean threads at my job but it’s usually because the starting threads get messed up, like hitting a pin after removing the grease zert. I used one the other day to clean out a brass fitting that broke off and just kind of melted not he threads, couldn’t strait it because it just tore it up more and a thread chaser wouldn’t start. Bottom line is you just need to be careful and pay attention.
Thread chasing is where the old "speed handle" and a 12 point socket shines.
I had never ever used a tap and die set but needed to thread a rod. Went to Autozone and asked to rent a tap and set and they rented me one. Remember, never used one b/4. After using the die I noticed the threads were very shallow. Oh-oh something wrong. Checked the kit instructions where I read that these were for thread chasing only🤣🤣🤣🤣
I thought dies for cutting new threads were always round and the hex shaped dies were only for cleaning/chasing threads?
Thanks!
Been using taps and dies to clean threads for 20 years, I’m a machinist/millwright and I’ve never messed up a thread yet. Rethreaders are for amateurs.
Only an amateur using the wrong tool for the job , your just a pro at being one
@@chickenfoundation9323 lol
You might call them a luxury, but the thread files in the kits are a real thing to have.
You didn't cover taper and plug taps. The kit you showed has plug taps and 1/8 & 1/4" NPT taps. Not the same as taper taps that make straight threads but only start full cut about 9 threads in.
I need to change a metric male to a sae male...thoughts?
Buy a new bolt. Only way to change the bolt would be turning it down on a lathe till its smooth and cutting new threads.
Hahahahahahaha
Pretty good material but, WOW! Talk about dragging it out.
10/10
🤣😓😭😱
All files have what could be termed teeth that cut in only one direction, forwards. They have a cutting face and a relief or rake side behind. When you drag them backward under pressure you start to roll the cutting edge over thus blunting the file over time. It is poor practice to file forwards and backward on metal. Always cut forwards then release the pressure to draw the file back for the next forward stroke. I've been an engineer since 1968. It frustrates me to see people misuse and abuse tools.
Fireball tool tested this, seems what you said is true "over time".
Any man that wears a rubber to explain howna tool works is really not a man
But they are professional black gloves.
Naw, there are a lot of you tube creators that wear disposable gloves. I think they pull them off when they need to adjust the camera, unless he has a cameraman...
Thank you very useful information