Evening Ian. Hints and tips for laying code 55. 1) On the under side of the sleepers on the code 55 flexi track you will find a couple of arrows. Always bend the track in the direction of the arrow. 2) For really short bits of curved track take the rails out of the webbing and gently bend the actual rail to the curvature then slide back onto the webbing 3) when joining flexi track on a curve - remove the last 8 sleepers on both sections and again gently bend the actual rail to shape. Once done slide the 8 sleeps back on. 4) for that little short bit of straight you had to lengthen - common problem - just cut the rail to length and don't bother with the sleepers. It's so short the points will keep it in position. Once laid slide in cosmetic sleepers. Once ballasted you won't be able to tell the difference. So glad we've got you into the code 55 gang 😅. Merry Xmas 🎉 cheers Euan
Morning Euan! Thank you so much for the tips! Just what I was after, and now squirreled away in a Note for future reference! It took me a while to come around to code 55, but I got there in the end, albeit in my own way! Al the best and Merry Christmas, Ian.
Hi Ian, One of the benefits of using flexitrack is the ability to make your trackwork flow and look natural without sharp tangents. So you may want to use your templates only as guides to where the track starts and ends rather than as an absolute. The curve in between will be a compound and providing it isn’t too sharp, be kinder to your trains. In your test layout, the curve that didn’t follow your line looks much better, more natural. When you come to laying your track for the final time, at each rail joint, bend down and look along each rail. If you can see a kink or corner at the joint move the track to smooth it out. Obviously this may put the rest of the piece off the marked line, but you can compensate by adjusting it to flow to the other end. You should see smoother running and reduce the possibility of derailments and unwanted uncoupling. Do consider converting your points to live frog from the start. I think it’s worth the extra effort. It should avoid the hesitation by smaller locos, which is very frustrating in DCC without stay alives fitted. I’m building a 1200mm x 600mm tail chaser DCC layout in 00 gauge with 280mm (11 inch) radius curves Much less than first radius. But I’m using streamline live frog points as most locos will be 0-4-0, my experience is that live frogs with permanently energised switch rails work best. A long response, but with all your testing and hard work I’d be disappointed to see you encounter problems and it is disheartening to have to rip it all up to rework it Been there done that. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year - do keep the videos coming.
Hi! Thank you for your detailed comment! The more information the better, as it not only helps me, but others who read through these responses! I agree with you about the flowing lines and, as I responded to Jonathan (endoorrailway), the short bit of track between the two curves was basically put there for convenience to join two third radius curves together! I'll likely end up increasing the radius of the curve here so that the short section is "eased" out! The Jury is still out with me and live frogs, especially with Unifrog points, and locos with more than one set of pickups, they simply shouldn't be necessary! I will do a few more experiments though before finally deciding! Good luck with your tail chaser! Merry Christmas and all the best for 2024! Ian
Greetings, Shelfington, and hello Ian 👋 that went well 👍 no jigsaw and no mishaps with rail joiners 🩸🫢 The "Ian-setters" are a fantastic idea 💡 and your testing on curves has given you great confidence to go forward 😇 as always Class 33 stole the show 💃 Happy Christmas 🎄 from the Emerald Isle ☘️
Hi Paul! Yes, it all went extremely well! Haha! I think the "Ian-settas" gave me confidence in curving the track before I'd even attempted it, and I can only get better with cutting the track more accurately the more times I attempt it! Ah, the class 33 is a real treasure! All the best and Merry Christmas, Ian.
Can't remember if I've commented this before or not on another video, but a huge thank you for doing these videos and trying out all of the different points, rail codes and combinations. Next year I will be starting on my modular n scale layout and your videos are being a huge help :)
Haha! I can't remember either - memory like a sieve nowadays! Lol! It's very kind of you to say in any case! I look forward to seeing your progress! Many thanks for watching! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, another great video, glad to see you made a decision on what code to use I have both code 80 and 55 on my layout and as you point out very well they each have their pros and cons. With the strengthening of the greyboard templates I would recommend caution with PVA as it could warp if the pva is too watery. Have a great Christmas. Nat
Morning Nat! Thank you very much! Yes, I've ummed and ahhed about which code to use for the best part of six months, so it's quite good to have finally made a decision! Thanks for the tip about PVA! I think there could be a whole video dedicated to investigating the best way to strengthen them! Enjoy your Christmas too! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, it looks like you get on better with code 55 track laying than I do! Those staples are a good idea. I'd planned short straight sections in the curves on Endoor, but the track doesn't want to do that - it looks the same in your experiment - the radius at the apex of the curve looks much shallower, but from what I can tell it hasn't stayed straight. If that's the case then you might need to account for that in the track plan. I think that's actually better for how the trains look when they run though, otherwise they kind of jolt when they go in and out of the straight. I've never tried to persuade you to Code 80 or 55, but I do think it'll look better with 55 :) On that short section next to the sleepers - you might be able to get it shorter next time by trimming the ends of the sleepers, rather removing sleepers altogether. The mouldings for the points are pretty strong, so the sleepers there can be trimmed right back, and they can go quite far back on the flexitrack too. Hope you have a great Christmas :)
Hi Jonathan! I must admit that the track laying experience went much better than expected! The staples definitely helped make the track seem a lot more securely planted on the foam! I don't think that the short straights in the middle of the curve will cause too many problems with running, even if they are slightly curved! However, I think that the main problem in this instance is that the template I was using "buckled" slightly, so the track isn't showing a true representation of the template! The other solution would to be increase the radius of the curve slightly to rid it of the short section - which was basically inserted for convenience to join two third radius curves together!!! Haha! Nobody can persuade me to do anything until I've finished my experiments!!! Lol! With the short section between the points, I can't just trim the sleeper ends off unfortunately, otherwise the rail joiners won't go onto the rail! I may try Euan's idea of using rails without sleepers, and then inserting cosmetic sleepers, which sounds like it would work for short sections! I don't like the idea of trimming sleepers from the points, just in case I want to use them elsewhere! Have a wonderful Christmas too! All the best, Ian.
Thanks Stephen! It's good to have finally made a decision! Yes, Euan and Chris have given some great advice, which I'll try following as best I can! Let's not get ahead of ourselves though, there's still plenty of things to investigate before I actually have to lay some track! Lol! All the best, Ian.
Very good Ian, a few comments based on my experience (not saying it's the only method). I also laid all my track on cork, 22mm wide so for me the laying of the cork was the most important thing as if the cork is correct then the track just needs to be centered on the cork. To assist i created a template of double track and triple track (because Four Oaks Station is 3 tracks wide x 2 but most of it is double track )with correct spacing using the Peco gauge. When laying the cork for a curve you only need to get one lane correct as the outer or inner lane just follows exactly by using a spacer between the cork lanes. Doing it this way creates the shoulder for the ballast etc. Also i found you can have complex track formations whereby points, crossings and slips are joined together without the need to put in small straights, you just need to trim the sleeper outer edges where they come together, This way you keep strength in the rails as the the track is still in the sleeper webbing and also avoid large gaps with no visible sleepers. Also when joining two pieces of track together i found a good way of maintaining sleeper spacing, I put the tracks together but not joined and with rails slightly overlapping, then i use a spare piece of sleeper webbing and place it next to the join so that it mirrors the sleeper spacing then i mark the tracks and cut with the dremill and then add two of the special sleepers for joints and hay presto you are hard pressed to find the track join and it looks very neat and prototypical . Prior to this i was finding that at a track joint I would often have a gap to fill where by one sleeper was not enough and two was too many. All the best for Xmas Ian
Hi Chris! Thanks! I really like how your trackwork looks, so will follow your tips very closely! I've made template tools to help me keep double and treble lanes on 26.5mm track centres - which I think is equivalent to 22mm between the tracks themselves! Maybe I'll create a similar tool to yourself to place between the tracks! With the cork, I think I'll be laying on one level, rather than strips, but haven't completely decided yet! It has implications to how I'll insert the point rodding under multiple tracks! I do worry about sleepers though, and will purchase a bunch of the cosmetic ones to ensure I keep the spacing consistent! One thing I've not tried yet is using my Dremel for cutting track as I don't know what cutting disc is required - could you point me in the right direction please? Thanks again for your detailed explanation! All the best, and Merry Christmas! Ian
Hi Ian, lol! It still sounded like you were not completely convinced! But to be honest I think you’re going down the right road, I wish in some respects that I’d gone code 55 but it’s to late now, to much invested! I found my own way in terms of laying flexi track, I did watch a few video’s though to get the idea. I made plenty of mistakes but learn’t on the job and I’m pleased to see by the comments below i actually use some of the techniques as the guy’s with more expertise! More great testing and I feel we are getting close to actually making a start! Have a lovely Christmas and New Year mate, cheers, John 🍻🥂
Hi John! I think I needed to go through this exercise to convince myself, and actually find the code 55 much easier to work with because it keeps its shape better! The staples also helped when working on foam! Once thing I need to do is get more consistent at cutting the track, and I've invested in a Dremel tool which I'll need to practice with! More practice overall and I think I'll get there, although there's still plenty to investigate before I actually start laying track in anger! Enjoy your Christmas too mate, and all the best for 2024! Cheers, Ian.
Another great video, you've confirmed my decision to go for code 55 is the correct one. Like the idea of you're custom made tracksettas, going to test 3d printing a few, hopefully they shouldn't have an issue with flexing. I would recommend you consider wiring up the frogs on your points it will improve the slow running of your short wheelbase locos. If you are using servers for your points you can easily use micro switches mounted near the servo arm, so as it moves to change the point it also activates the switch. Keep up the great work and keep having fun.
Hi there, and thank you! Yes, I must have gone back and forth between code 80 and code 55 a thousand times before finally deciding! I really prefer the code 55 flexible track and think it's much easier to work with! I'd have liked to have made the tracksettas from MDF ideally, but don't have access to a laser cutting machine, but 3D printing them could work really well! I'm going to lengthen the wires for the frogs to give me the option to wire them up at a later date should I need to! Thanks again! All the best, Ian.
Thanks Tim! The Rail Joiner Mates are a real game changer! The staples also gave me much more confidence that the track would stay in place too! All the best, Ian.
Now I wished I had thought of the staples idea when I started my first layout it would have saved me so much hassle. Great idea that. Totally agree with your re the West Hill track joiner gadget - so much better than before. Regards Steve
Thanks Steve! It was a rare moment of inspiration from me this year, and the staples worked brilliantly! Those Rail Joiner Mates are a lifesaver - well, a finger saver! Cheers, Ian.
Hello, thanks for the ideas. I'm in basic oval stage with Kato track, so this is way out of my skill set. I need to get to hardware store and get more of that foam.
Hi Frank! I'm very pleased you got some ideas from the video! Skill sets are weird things, as only a couple of weeks ago, this was quite a daunting task for me! However, I'm now confident that with a little more practice I'll be able to wrangle the code 55 track around Shelfington! Blue foam rules! Lol! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, A great video showing the comparison between code 80 and code 55! Now you have bit the bullet on the code 55 I am looking forward to the layout starting in anger in 2024??? Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!! Cheers Gary
Thanks very much Gary! Yes, it took a long time to decide, but I got there in the end! Ooh, let's not get ahead of ourselves! There's still a lot of experimentation to be done before I get down to track laying! Lol! Merry Christmas to you too, and all the best for 2024! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian - That was an absolutely brilliant update. I have even picked up some excellent tips from reading all the comments. I went with code 55 right at the beginning, more luck than judgement. As I will have the room I do wish to use only large radius if I can, but I am struggling to understand the difference and benefits in wiring up these points. I am leaning towards electro frog as it looks like it will be a long time before the full range in Unifrog comes out. on route Regards Chris
Hi Chris! Thanks very much! It took quite a lot of work to put this one together, so I appreciate your kind words! Yes, the comments are an excellent place to pick up tips! The main advantage of "electrifying the frog" on points is so small locos don't stutter, or even stop on them! If you're going to go with Electrofrog points, and you need any medium radius points on your layout then I'd suggest you swap them for the Unifrog ones as they require no modification and are of the same size as their Electrofrog counterparts! Oh, I hope you found my reply to your comment on 089 useful! All the best, Ian.
Having checked Peco site I now see Unifrog is out in large radius. You think that Unifrog is the one to go for and that no small locos going slowly over it will have a problem? When I have insulated my roof space and finished all my staging you will have to come round and explain face to face how to wire up these points. It may be awhile. Since CPTSD I really have a hard time understanding things along with awful memory retention, which is why someone as smart as you which is confirmed by these very clever updates may be able to educate this silly old fart. Yes the 25.5mm, have not checked it against my proses yet but will let you know when I do. Hope you have a wonderful xmas, I am still trying to get an update out before the New year. Regards Chris
@@Chris-BognorRegis - Ooh! That's good information about the large radius Unifrog points! I didn't know that! I'd definitely go with Unifrog, as like I said, they require much less work to wire them! In my recent test with unpowered Unifrog points, I only had a couple of "stoppages" when testing my shortest wheelbase loco on them, and that was when the loco was crawling, not going at "normal" speed! At the moment, I have no plans to wire them, but will leave the wires connected so I have a choice to in the future! As a side note, I believe Peco are phasing out the Electrofrog (and Insulfrog) points, so eventually you'll only be able to purchase Unifrog ones! Have a wonderful Christmas yourself, and I look forward to seeing your update before the New Year - or after! No pressure! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian - I dont know how I found on the Peco site that they had released the large radius point but I cannot find it anymore. I must have read it wrong or typed in Unifrog and it took me to Electofrog. Either way sadly it is not on release otherwise I would have purchased a few. My apologies Ian. Regards Chris
Hi Ian. Thanks for the video. One thing I noticed was when you used the track cutter you cut the rail from 'top to bottom', whereas xuron suggests cutting N scale track 'side to side'. I don't know but this might help alleviate the burring you mentioned. Cheers Graeme
Hi Graeme! Thanks for watching! With the Xuron cutters I have you cut the rail from top to bottom! However, Xuron also make vertical track cutters, which you cut from side to side, and are intended to be used when the track has already been laid! To be honest, I've used my cutters in both directions, and they cut equally well in both, and very rarely leave any burr on the rail! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian. Brilliant video. I too have bought the West Hill Wagon Works Rail Joiner Mate, although I have yet to use it. Those staples were inspired for use on your foam track bed. BTW: I have ordered the Dapol Class 33 on your recommendation (it won't arrive until next month - hopefully). Just out of curiosity, what is the name/running number of your Class 33? Wishing you a very Merry Xmas and all best wishes for the New Year.
Hi Paul! Thank you! The Rail Joiner Mates take away one of the huge frustrations I always have with laying track! Yes, the staples turned out to be a great idea!!! I'm sure you won't be disappointed with how the class 33 performs! Mine is 33112, Templecombe, which is actually a little late for my era, as it wasn't named until 1988 - so it will be undergoing some cosmetic changes in the fullness of time! Merry Christmas, and all the best for 2024! Ian
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo - Just did a quick look-up and it was named "Burma Star" in 1980, so would be right for the end of my era! Also, the full yellow ends are right, and are what Templecombe would have run in during the 1970's! Now, should I buy another 33? Lol!
Hi! Yes, code 55 can be laid into 1st and 2nd radius curves, and even tighter if required, although not all locos will be able to travel around the tighter radii! Cheers, Ian.
Yeah, I cut the wires short here, but when I use the points on the layout I'll extend the wires so they hang below the baseboard so I have the option of powering the frogs later! Cheers, Ian.
Evening Ian. Hints and tips for laying code 55.
1) On the under side of the sleepers on the code 55 flexi track you will find a couple of arrows. Always bend the track in the direction of the arrow.
2) For really short bits of curved track take the rails out of the webbing and gently bend the actual rail to the curvature then slide back onto the webbing
3) when joining flexi track on a curve - remove the last 8 sleepers on both sections and again gently bend the actual rail to shape. Once done slide the 8 sleeps back on.
4) for that little short bit of straight you had to lengthen - common problem - just cut the rail to length and don't bother with the sleepers. It's so short the points will keep it in position. Once laid slide in cosmetic sleepers. Once ballasted you won't be able to tell the difference.
So glad we've got you into the code 55 gang 😅. Merry Xmas 🎉 cheers Euan
Morning Euan! Thank you so much for the tips! Just what I was after, and now squirreled away in a Note for future reference! It took me a while to come around to code 55, but I got there in the end, albeit in my own way! Al the best and Merry Christmas, Ian.
Hi Ian,
One of the benefits of using flexitrack is the ability to make your trackwork flow and look natural without sharp tangents. So you may want to use your templates only as guides to where the track starts and ends rather than as an absolute. The curve in between will be a compound and providing it isn’t too sharp, be kinder to your trains. In your test layout, the curve that didn’t follow your line looks much better, more natural.
When you come to laying your track for the final time, at each rail joint, bend down and look along each rail. If you can see a kink or corner at the joint move the track to smooth it out. Obviously this may put the rest of the piece off the marked line, but you can compensate by adjusting it to flow to the other end.
You should see smoother running and reduce the possibility of derailments and unwanted uncoupling.
Do consider converting your points to live frog from the start. I think it’s worth the extra effort. It should avoid the hesitation by smaller locos, which is very frustrating in DCC without stay alives fitted.
I’m building a 1200mm x 600mm tail chaser DCC layout in 00 gauge with 280mm (11 inch) radius curves Much less than first radius. But I’m using streamline live frog points as most locos will be 0-4-0, my experience is that live frogs with permanently energised switch rails work best.
A long response, but with all your testing and hard work I’d be disappointed to see you encounter problems and it is disheartening to have to rip it all up to rework it Been there done that.
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year - do keep the videos coming.
Hi! Thank you for your detailed comment! The more information the better, as it not only helps me, but others who read through these responses! I agree with you about the flowing lines and, as I responded to Jonathan (endoorrailway), the short bit of track between the two curves was basically put there for convenience to join two third radius curves together! I'll likely end up increasing the radius of the curve here so that the short section is "eased" out! The Jury is still out with me and live frogs, especially with Unifrog points, and locos with more than one set of pickups, they simply shouldn't be necessary! I will do a few more experiments though before finally deciding! Good luck with your tail chaser! Merry Christmas and all the best for 2024! Ian
Greetings, Shelfington, and hello Ian 👋 that went well 👍 no jigsaw and no mishaps with rail joiners 🩸🫢 The "Ian-setters" are a fantastic idea 💡 and your testing on curves has given you great confidence to go forward 😇 as always Class 33 stole the show 💃 Happy Christmas 🎄 from the Emerald Isle ☘️
Hi Paul! Yes, it all went extremely well! Haha! I think the "Ian-settas" gave me confidence in curving the track before I'd even attempted it, and I can only get better with cutting the track more accurately the more times I attempt it! Ah, the class 33 is a real treasure! All the best and Merry Christmas, Ian.
Can't remember if I've commented this before or not on another video, but a huge thank you for doing these videos and trying out all of the different points, rail codes and combinations.
Next year I will be starting on my modular n scale layout and your videos are being a huge help :)
Haha! I can't remember either - memory like a sieve nowadays! Lol! It's very kind of you to say in any case! I look forward to seeing your progress! Many thanks for watching! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, another great video, glad to see you made a decision on what code to use I have both code 80 and 55 on my layout and as you point out very well they each have their pros and cons. With the strengthening of the greyboard templates I would recommend caution with PVA as it could warp if the pva is too watery. Have a great Christmas. Nat
Morning Nat! Thank you very much! Yes, I've ummed and ahhed about which code to use for the best part of six months, so it's quite good to have finally made a decision! Thanks for the tip about PVA! I think there could be a whole video dedicated to investigating the best way to strengthen them! Enjoy your Christmas too! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, it looks like you get on better with code 55 track laying than I do! Those staples are a good idea. I'd planned short straight sections in the curves on Endoor, but the track doesn't want to do that - it looks the same in your experiment - the radius at the apex of the curve looks much shallower, but from what I can tell it hasn't stayed straight. If that's the case then you might need to account for that in the track plan. I think that's actually better for how the trains look when they run though, otherwise they kind of jolt when they go in and out of the straight.
I've never tried to persuade you to Code 80 or 55, but I do think it'll look better with 55 :)
On that short section next to the sleepers - you might be able to get it shorter next time by trimming the ends of the sleepers, rather removing sleepers altogether. The mouldings for the points are pretty strong, so the sleepers there can be trimmed right back, and they can go quite far back on the flexitrack too.
Hope you have a great Christmas :)
Hi Jonathan! I must admit that the track laying experience went much better than expected! The staples definitely helped make the track seem a lot more securely planted on the foam! I don't think that the short straights in the middle of the curve will cause too many problems with running, even if they are slightly curved! However, I think that the main problem in this instance is that the template I was using "buckled" slightly, so the track isn't showing a true representation of the template! The other solution would to be increase the radius of the curve slightly to rid it of the short section - which was basically inserted for convenience to join two third radius curves together!!! Haha! Nobody can persuade me to do anything until I've finished my experiments!!! Lol! With the short section between the points, I can't just trim the sleeper ends off unfortunately, otherwise the rail joiners won't go onto the rail! I may try Euan's idea of using rails without sleepers, and then inserting cosmetic sleepers, which sounds like it would work for short sections! I don't like the idea of trimming sleepers from the points, just in case I want to use them elsewhere! Have a wonderful Christmas too! All the best, Ian.
Welcome to the code 55 gang. I agree with the advice of Euan and Chris on laying. Might this mean that construction of the layout can begin? Stephen
Thanks Stephen! It's good to have finally made a decision! Yes, Euan and Chris have given some great advice, which I'll try following as best I can! Let's not get ahead of ourselves though, there's still plenty of things to investigate before I actually have to lay some track! Lol! All the best, Ian.
Very good Ian, a few comments based on my experience (not saying it's the only method). I also laid all my track on cork, 22mm wide so for me the laying of the cork was the most important thing as if the cork is correct then the track just needs to be centered on the cork. To assist i created a template of double track and triple track (because Four Oaks Station is 3 tracks wide x 2 but most of it is double track )with correct spacing using the Peco gauge. When laying the cork for a curve you only need to get one lane correct as the outer or inner lane just follows exactly by using a spacer between the cork lanes. Doing it this way creates the shoulder for the ballast etc.
Also i found you can have complex track formations whereby points, crossings and slips are joined together without the need to put in small straights, you just need to trim the sleeper outer edges where they come together, This way you keep strength in the rails as the the track is still in the sleeper webbing and also avoid large gaps with no visible sleepers. Also when joining two pieces of track together i found a good way of maintaining sleeper spacing, I put the tracks together but not joined and with rails slightly overlapping, then i use a spare piece of sleeper webbing and place it next to the join so that it mirrors the sleeper spacing then i mark the tracks and cut with the dremill and then add two of the special sleepers for joints and hay presto you are hard pressed to find the track join and it looks very neat and prototypical . Prior to this i was finding that at a track joint I would often have a gap to fill where by one sleeper was not enough and two was too many. All the best for Xmas Ian
Hi Chris! Thanks! I really like how your trackwork looks, so will follow your tips very closely! I've made template tools to help me keep double and treble lanes on 26.5mm track centres - which I think is equivalent to 22mm between the tracks themselves! Maybe I'll create a similar tool to yourself to place between the tracks! With the cork, I think I'll be laying on one level, rather than strips, but haven't completely decided yet! It has implications to how I'll insert the point rodding under multiple tracks! I do worry about sleepers though, and will purchase a bunch of the cosmetic ones to ensure I keep the spacing consistent! One thing I've not tried yet is using my Dremel for cutting track as I don't know what cutting disc is required - could you point me in the right direction please? Thanks again for your detailed explanation! All the best, and Merry Christmas! Ian
@@iansngauge Hi Ian, I put this together today as better than writing as such
th-cam.com/video/2p0uVrnNwdw/w-d-xo.html
Hi Ian, lol! It still sounded like you were not completely convinced! But to be honest I think you’re going down the right road, I wish in some respects that I’d gone code 55 but it’s to late now, to much invested! I found my own way in terms of laying flexi track, I did watch a few video’s though to get the idea. I made plenty of mistakes but learn’t on the job and I’m pleased to see by the comments below i actually use some of the techniques as the guy’s with more expertise!
More great testing and I feel we are getting close to actually making a start!
Have a lovely Christmas and New Year mate, cheers, John 🍻🥂
Hi John! I think I needed to go through this exercise to convince myself, and actually find the code 55 much easier to work with because it keeps its shape better! The staples also helped when working on foam! Once thing I need to do is get more consistent at cutting the track, and I've invested in a Dremel tool which I'll need to practice with! More practice overall and I think I'll get there, although there's still plenty to investigate before I actually start laying track in anger! Enjoy your Christmas too mate, and all the best for 2024! Cheers, Ian.
Great video and merry Christmas to you very interesting thank you for sharing 👍
Thanks very much Clive! Merry Christmas to you too! All the best, Ian.
Another great video, you've confirmed my decision to go for code 55 is the correct one. Like the idea of you're custom made tracksettas, going to test 3d printing a few, hopefully they shouldn't have an issue with flexing. I would recommend you consider wiring up the frogs on your points it will improve the slow running of your short wheelbase locos. If you are using servers for your points you can easily use micro switches mounted near the servo arm, so as it moves to change the point it also activates the switch. Keep up the great work and keep having fun.
Hi there, and thank you! Yes, I must have gone back and forth between code 80 and code 55 a thousand times before finally deciding! I really prefer the code 55 flexible track and think it's much easier to work with! I'd have liked to have made the tracksettas from MDF ideally, but don't have access to a laser cutting machine, but 3D printing them could work really well! I'm going to lengthen the wires for the frogs to give me the option to wire them up at a later date should I need to! Thanks again! All the best, Ian.
good use of staples and the rail joiner mate. some useful ideas.
Thanks Tim! The Rail Joiner Mates are a real game changer! The staples also gave me much more confidence that the track would stay in place too! All the best, Ian.
Now I wished I had thought of the staples idea when I started my first layout it would have saved me so much hassle. Great idea that. Totally agree with your re the West Hill track joiner gadget - so much better than before.
Regards
Steve
Thanks Steve! It was a rare moment of inspiration from me this year, and the staples worked brilliantly! Those Rail Joiner Mates are a lifesaver - well, a finger saver! Cheers, Ian.
Yes please for a video on how you made the templates 👍
Hi Leonard! Okay, it's on the ever growing list! All the best, Ian.
Hello, thanks for the ideas. I'm in basic oval stage with Kato track, so this is way out of my skill set. I need to get to hardware store and get more of that foam.
Hi Frank! I'm very pleased you got some ideas from the video! Skill sets are weird things, as only a couple of weeks ago, this was quite a daunting task for me! However, I'm now confident that with a little more practice I'll be able to wrangle the code 55 track around Shelfington! Blue foam rules! Lol! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, A great video showing the comparison between code 80 and code 55! Now you have bit the bullet on the code 55 I am looking forward to the layout starting in anger in 2024??? Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!!! Cheers Gary
Thanks very much Gary! Yes, it took a long time to decide, but I got there in the end! Ooh, let's not get ahead of ourselves! There's still a lot of experimentation to be done before I get down to track laying! Lol! Merry Christmas to you too, and all the best for 2024! Cheers, Ian.
Hi Ian - That was an absolutely brilliant update. I have even picked up some excellent tips from reading all the comments.
I went with code 55 right at the beginning, more luck than judgement.
As I will have the room I do wish to use only large radius if I can, but I am struggling to understand the difference and benefits in wiring up these points.
I am leaning towards electro frog as it looks like it will be a long time before the full range in Unifrog comes out.
on route
Regards Chris
Hi Chris! Thanks very much! It took quite a lot of work to put this one together, so I appreciate your kind words! Yes, the comments are an excellent place to pick up tips! The main advantage of "electrifying the frog" on points is so small locos don't stutter, or even stop on them! If you're going to go with Electrofrog points, and you need any medium radius points on your layout then I'd suggest you swap them for the Unifrog ones as they require no modification and are of the same size as their Electrofrog counterparts! Oh, I hope you found my reply to your comment on 089 useful! All the best, Ian.
Having checked Peco site I now see Unifrog is out in large radius. You think that Unifrog is the one to go for and that no small locos going slowly over it will have a problem?
When I have insulated my roof space and finished all my staging you will have to come round and explain face to face how to wire up these points. It may be awhile.
Since CPTSD I really have a hard time understanding things along with awful memory retention, which is why someone as smart as you which is confirmed by these very clever updates may be able to educate this silly old fart.
Yes the 25.5mm, have not checked it against my proses yet but will let you know when I do.
Hope you have a wonderful xmas, I am still trying to get an update out before the New year.
Regards Chris
@@Chris-BognorRegis - Ooh! That's good information about the large radius Unifrog points! I didn't know that! I'd definitely go with Unifrog, as like I said, they require much less work to wire them! In my recent test with unpowered Unifrog points, I only had a couple of "stoppages" when testing my shortest wheelbase loco on them, and that was when the loco was crawling, not going at "normal" speed! At the moment, I have no plans to wire them, but will leave the wires connected so I have a choice to in the future! As a side note, I believe Peco are phasing out the Electrofrog (and Insulfrog) points, so eventually you'll only be able to purchase Unifrog ones! Have a wonderful Christmas yourself, and I look forward to seeing your update before the New Year - or after! No pressure! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian - I dont know how I found on the Peco site that they had released the large radius point but I cannot find it anymore.
I must have read it wrong or typed in Unifrog and it took me to Electofrog. Either way sadly it is not on release otherwise I would have purchased a few. My apologies Ian.
Regards Chris
@@Chris-BognorRegis - No problem Chris! I believe you can get large radius Unifrog points in OO, so maybe you'd clicked on them? Ian
Hi Ian. Thanks for the video. One thing I noticed was when you used the track cutter you cut the rail from 'top to bottom', whereas xuron suggests cutting N scale track 'side to side'. I don't know but this might help alleviate the burring you mentioned. Cheers Graeme
Hi Graeme! Thanks for watching! With the Xuron cutters I have you cut the rail from top to bottom! However, Xuron also make vertical track cutters, which you cut from side to side, and are intended to be used when the track has already been laid! To be honest, I've used my cutters in both directions, and they cut equally well in both, and very rarely leave any burr on the rail! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian. Brilliant video. I too have bought the West Hill Wagon Works Rail Joiner Mate, although I have yet to use it. Those staples were inspired for use on your foam track bed. BTW: I have ordered the Dapol Class 33 on your recommendation (it won't arrive until next month - hopefully). Just out of curiosity, what is the name/running number of your Class 33? Wishing you a very Merry Xmas and all best wishes for the New Year.
Hi Paul! Thank you! The Rail Joiner Mates take away one of the huge frustrations I always have with laying track! Yes, the staples turned out to be a great idea!!! I'm sure you won't be disappointed with how the class 33 performs! Mine is 33112, Templecombe, which is actually a little late for my era, as it wasn't named until 1988 - so it will be undergoing some cosmetic changes in the fullness of time! Merry Christmas, and all the best for 2024! Ian
@@iansngauge Hi Ian. When mine arrives, it will be number 33056 in BR blue with full yellow ends and called the .
@@iansngauge ...Burma Star.
@@PaulSmith-pl7fo - Just did a quick look-up and it was named "Burma Star" in 1980, so would be right for the end of my era! Also, the full yellow ends are right, and are what Templecombe would have run in during the 1970's! Now, should I buy another 33? Lol!
@@iansngauge If only we could guarantee that every example would run as well as yours!
Hi Ian - can you lay the code 55 track as radius 1 and 2 or is that too tight for it?
Hi! Yes, code 55 can be laid into 1st and 2nd radius curves, and even tighter if required, although not all locos will be able to travel around the tighter radii! Cheers, Ian.
@@iansngaugeThank you!
can i suggest powering the frogs. or at least attach a wire to them so you can attach them up to a point motor with a switch on them in the future.
Yeah, I cut the wires short here, but when I use the points on the layout I'll extend the wires so they hang below the baseboard so I have the option of powering the frogs later! Cheers, Ian.