Thanks very much Ian for replying to my comment. That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve my Channel. Take care and stay safe DD.
Ah Ian - the trials and tribulations of track laying. Okay - first the fishplates - don't use pliers to push them on - you'll distort them. Cut a small length of Code 80 rail and holding the fish plate with your fingers push it on - then offer it up to say the point and join the two. Once on the point you can hold the fish plate with pliers to then pull the rail off the other end. Flexible track - laying short bits that are straight - no problem. Short curve bits - trick is to remove the track from the webbing and bend the rail very gently then thread it back on ! If possible always lay full Lengths or as close as you can when it comes to curves. Where you can't then use the other method I've described. Hope this helps. Cheers Euan
Hi Ian. I think all the advice in the previous comments will help with the flexitrack and the fishplates I am going to show the old piece of rail trick for putting on fishplates in my next video, because I am just starting laying the flexitrack curves. I use Code 55 so all my track outside of turnouts is flexitrack. The Peco TV YOuTube channel has a five part series on laying flexitrack (each video is about 5-10 mins long). They are in the playlist PECO technical advice. I do know how frustrating it can be as you start to build. I certainly felt as if it was two steps forward and one step back quite a bit as I started to lay mine. I think your future self will prove to be right. Stephen
Hi Ian the growler's solution is a good one the only thing I would add is you add a 45% bend upwards so you can rest your wrist on the work bench wile you add the plates. also on your points the 2 inner plates should be plastic to reduce the possibility of a short circuit. I use the Tracksetta to set curves tile I pin them in place. as it happens. th-cam.com/users/StBlazeyModelWorld Has just put up an explanation on the use of them. hope this helps. Stay safe
Hi Ian, it's all mean't to be good fun but can be frustrating? For fish plates I made a tool (saw it on another TH-cam channel) just get a small piece of rail (no webbing) and file the bottom edges so the fish plates slip on easy. Then use this piece of rail with the fish plate half on as the tool to offer up the fish plate on the track you are laying, better to be tight than loose. Do you find the fishplates fit the flexi track easier than the set track? I use all code 55 and have not had many issues. In terms of securing track I actually have never used any pins as i attach to a cork pre laid road bed using PVA applied to the cork and track letting it slightly dry. I then use weights and occasionally notice board pins to keep in place whilst drying, I suppose pins could be removed after ballasting. Laying flexible track well is just practice, just keep going and you will develop a process that works for you and you will never go back to set track and save a lot of money. I have laid 148 metres on my layout and still about 25 to go. Don't give up on laying flexible track..
Hi Ian I personally don't think it's good to use short flexi track and try and curve it want you should of done or could of done is taken out one of the set track and then put flexi in it's place. Sorry for the suggestion after you change your track plan. Colin
Fishplates, interesting English word. I hate the job, putting them on, myself. I have another layout, which I have built when I was younger. Those things very so fiddly, got stuck an sometimes lost. Your progress looks very good, Ian (track laying is so time-consuming, I know that). All the best Valentin
Hi Perry! Thank you for watching! Yes, I think a lot of us, especially first-time n-gaugers, come across these problems unexpectedly! I've redesigned the layout several times now to avoid such issues, which I think I talk about in Part Two (027) of this video if I remember correctly! All the best, Ian.
I've switched over to Kato Unitrack as it does away with all the problems you have been dealing with. And the Kato rail joiners are much more reliable electrically - they don't get loose after you disconnect and reconnect them.
Greetings Shelfington and hello Ian 👋 N Gauge fishplates are the work of Satan 👹 but Euan's tip is a great one to preserve your sanity 😇 John at Exehaven and Chris at Bognor Regis have done some good tutorials on laying flexible track too 😉 As always your journey is highly entertaining 😳 although I'm sure not so amusing for you at the time 😲🤣🤣🤣🤣 Great little drill too 🤩 Looking forward to seeing how your future self got on next week 🤞 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
i gave up trying to lay flexi track on the corners as i was trying to lay it on top of Styrofoam. The pins kept slipping and it was just a stressful experience. So i added set track to the bends. The slight bends/ straights were no issues and i do find flexi has its advantages. The new plan is good and at least the layout will be operational. Ive started n gauge myself. Nice video and ive subscribed.
Hi Lewis! I only had problems when trying to pin short curves, and especially S-curves, of flexi-track to the XPS foam! When it came to longer first radius curves or above I didn't have any problems at all - although I am using the extra long Gaugemaster track pins as the Peco ones were just too short! I'm now several iterations on from the plan in this video, and took all of the track up after Christmas to implement a more future proof design, and am currently working on putting it all back together properly! Thanks for the sub! All the best, Ian.
Hi Ian, enjoyed the video and I have shared your pain from my past and now so again in my future 😆As you say like all good plans might take a few attempts to get it right! I know from my past experiences its only when you lay it out you find what works and what doesn't for you, stick with it until you are happy and starting to firm it up and fasten track down. By the way USB drill looks a handy tool! Cheers Gary
Euans idea is a sanity saver,re the fishplates,I have spent the last couple of weeks trying to get my track laid,using code55 flextrack,and without Euans trick I would sure have gone nuts!!!
Hi Ian. When I use flexitrack in a position where alignment can be easily compromised, I align the track dead striaght and solder the track joint with the fishplate solid, and then I can lay and form it without the stress a curve would put on a fishplate only join. I usually take this opportunity to also solder a wire feed dropper to this point. As for fitting the fishplates in the first place, I take a small triangular file, place it at a shallow angle to the rail, in the "V" where the rail sole plate meets the web, and make one only smooth pass with the file at the point where the fishplate interfaces with the rail end. Generally this allows the fishplate to slide easily onto the rail end and I generally don't need pliers. Once the fishplate has started on the rail end, then I push the fishplate into the sofwood side of my bench with the rail until it is far enough on. For my layout I only used flexitrack, and drew out my track plan full size on wallpaper using string to provide whatever radius I needed for curves. All the joins and curves I aligned by sight. I would hold a small mirror on the track and angle it to allow line of sight along the rail. If you were prepared to do similar work, then I would suggest that the straight section along the front could incorporate a very slight, large radius, reverse curve to allow the track to not run parallel to the edge of the baseboard. Best of luck Patrick
Enjoyed your latest video Ian and like thanks for sharing DD.
Thanks very much Ian for replying to my comment. That's the great part about the hobby sharing ideas and learning new ideas from other people to improve my Channel. Take care and stay safe DD.
Ah Ian - the trials and tribulations of track laying. Okay - first the fishplates - don't use pliers to push them on - you'll distort them. Cut a small length of Code 80 rail and holding the fish plate with your fingers push it on - then offer it up to say the point and join the two. Once on the point you can hold the fish plate with pliers to then pull the rail off the other end. Flexible track - laying short bits that are straight - no problem. Short curve bits - trick is to remove the track from the webbing and bend the rail very gently then thread it back on ! If possible always lay full Lengths or as close as you can when it comes to curves. Where you can't then use the other method I've described. Hope this helps. Cheers Euan
Hi Ian. I think all the advice in the previous comments will help with the flexitrack and the fishplates I am going to show the old piece of rail trick for putting on fishplates in my next video, because I am just starting laying the flexitrack curves. I use Code 55 so all my track outside of turnouts is flexitrack. The Peco TV YOuTube channel has a five part series on laying flexitrack (each video is about 5-10 mins long). They are in the playlist PECO technical advice. I do know how frustrating it can be as you start to build. I certainly felt as if it was two steps forward and one step back quite a bit as I started to lay mine. I think your future self will prove to be right. Stephen
Hi Ian the growler's solution is a good one the only thing I would add is you add a 45% bend upwards so you can rest your wrist on the work bench wile you add the plates. also on your points the 2 inner plates should be plastic to reduce the possibility of a short circuit. I use the Tracksetta to set curves tile I pin them in place. as it happens. th-cam.com/users/StBlazeyModelWorld Has just put up an explanation on the use of them. hope this helps. Stay safe
Hi Ian, it's all mean't to be good fun but can be frustrating? For fish plates I made a tool (saw it on another TH-cam channel) just get a small piece of rail (no webbing) and file the bottom edges so the fish plates slip on easy. Then use this piece of rail with the fish plate half on as the tool to offer up the fish plate on the track you are laying, better to be tight than loose. Do you find the fishplates fit the flexi track easier than the set track? I use all code 55 and have not had many issues. In terms of securing track I actually have never used any pins as i attach to a cork pre laid road bed using PVA applied to the cork and track letting it slightly dry. I then use weights and occasionally notice board pins to keep in place whilst drying, I suppose pins could be removed after ballasting. Laying flexible track well is just practice, just keep going and you will develop a process that works for you and you will never go back to set track and save a lot of money. I have laid 148 metres on my layout and still about 25 to go. Don't give up on laying flexible track..
Hi Ian I personally don't think it's good to use short flexi track and try and curve it want you should of done or could of done is taken out one of the set track and then put flexi in it's place. Sorry for the suggestion after you change your track plan. Colin
Hi if you get a small bit of track and bend it so you can put a fish plate one end push it onto the track
Fishplates, interesting English word. I hate the job, putting them on, myself. I have another layout, which I have built when I was younger. Those things very so fiddly, got stuck an sometimes lost.
Your progress looks very good, Ian (track laying is so time-consuming, I know that).
All the best
Valentin
I'd not heard of a USB powered drill before, now it's on my shopping list!
Hi Ian. Am I mistaken, or did you use metal rail joiners (fishplates) throughout - including the turnouts?
Thanks for your video
I have suffered many of your issues and I don't have answers
I am considering redoing layout to remove all the trouble spots😂
Hi Perry! Thank you for watching! Yes, I think a lot of us, especially first-time n-gaugers, come across these problems unexpectedly! I've redesigned the layout several times now to avoid such issues, which I think I talk about in Part Two (027) of this video if I remember correctly! All the best, Ian.
I've switched over to Kato Unitrack as it does away with all the problems you have been dealing with. And the Kato rail joiners are much more reliable electrically - they don't get loose after you disconnect and reconnect them.
Greetings Shelfington and hello Ian 👋 N Gauge fishplates are the work of Satan 👹 but Euan's tip is a great one to preserve your sanity 😇 John at Exehaven and Chris at Bognor Regis have done some good tutorials on laying flexible track too 😉 As always your journey is highly entertaining 😳 although I'm sure not so amusing for you at the time 😲🤣🤣🤣🤣 Great little drill too 🤩 Looking forward to seeing how your future self got on next week 🤞 Very best wishes from the Emerald Isle ☘️
i gave up trying to lay flexi track on the corners as i was trying to lay it on top of Styrofoam. The pins kept slipping and it was just a stressful experience. So i added set track to the bends. The slight bends/ straights were no issues and i do find flexi has its advantages. The new plan is good and at least the layout will be operational. Ive started n gauge myself. Nice video and ive subscribed.
Hi Lewis! I only had problems when trying to pin short curves, and especially S-curves, of flexi-track to the XPS foam! When it came to longer first radius curves or above I didn't have any problems at all - although I am using the extra long Gaugemaster track pins as the Peco ones were just too short! I'm now several iterations on from the plan in this video, and took all of the track up after Christmas to implement a more future proof design, and am currently working on putting it all back together properly! Thanks for the sub! All the best, Ian.
@@iansngauge Thanks! perhaps thats where i went wrong. I used the peco ones and they just werent biting in enough.
I’m glad I’m not the only one that’s had fun with fishplates
Hi Ian, enjoyed the video and I have shared your pain from my past and now so again in my future 😆As you say like all good plans might take a few attempts to get it right! I know from my past experiences its only when you lay it out you find what works and what doesn't for you, stick with it until you are happy and starting to firm it up and fasten track down. By the way USB drill looks a handy tool! Cheers Gary
Hi Ian, I struggled with N gauge fishplates because my eye sight is not good these days so I have change to KATO unit rack which is easier.
Euans idea is a sanity saver,re the fishplates,I have spent the last couple of weeks trying to get my track laid,using code55 flextrack,and without Euans trick I would sure have gone nuts!!!
Hi Ian.
When I use flexitrack in a position where alignment can be easily compromised, I align the track dead striaght and solder the track joint with the fishplate solid, and then I can lay and form it without the stress a curve would put on a fishplate only join. I usually take this opportunity to also solder a wire feed dropper to this point.
As for fitting the fishplates in the first place, I take a small triangular file, place it at a shallow angle to the rail, in the "V" where the rail sole plate meets the web, and make one only smooth pass with the file at the point where the fishplate interfaces with the rail end. Generally this allows the fishplate to slide easily onto the rail end and I generally don't need pliers. Once the fishplate has started on the rail end, then I push the fishplate into the sofwood side of my bench with the rail until it is far enough on.
For my layout I only used flexitrack, and drew out my track plan full size on wallpaper using string to provide whatever radius I needed for curves. All the joins and curves I aligned by sight. I would hold a small mirror on the track and angle it to allow line of sight along the rail. If you were prepared to do similar work, then I would suggest that the straight section along the front could incorporate a very slight, large radius, reverse curve to allow the track to not run parallel to the edge of the baseboard.
Best of luck
Patrick