I used to see thousands of these undercarriage parts when I worked at the Caterpillar Tractor Plant, nr Glasgow, Scotland..where we produced the D6,D8 and the 977K Traxcavator..which was a similar design to "Old Red"..I never gave much thought to what each part did..but now its interesting to see them all again..I remember heat treatment on the track links, Rollers and pins and bushes..the machines in the factory drilling, boring all the holes in the sub frame and links, the Milling on the link rail, being induction hardened and tempered..so great to follow your videos and enjoy the nostalgia of the 70's and 80's..I admire your work and patience..well done.
Watching you work and moving heavy iron, breaking fasteners loose I cannot help to think Man Your back is gonna be knackered in 20 years.. Maybe less. I used work like I was indestructible Now mid 50s I'm disabled with a knackered back. Please work safe and smart. Keep up the great content.
3/4 minimum 1inch preferred on all tools needed for this kind of work! A Hougan Mag drill is made for drilling out BIG frozen bolts studs guide pins. I retired in 2010 as a member of the Steamfitters Local 598 Pasco Wash. Everything in this line of work is heavy construction 1 inch nuts are just the start on disassembly on the equipment we service! LOL! 1 1/2 to 4 inch nuts are common! Hydraulic nut busters are used too! I admire your never give up attitude young man! Watch out for your fingers and toes! GIT ER DONE!
I get into these situations all the time with these old rigs. Learned more than a few handy trick. Gimme a shout if you want to lower the number for times you have to swing that big hammer.
I found it truly frustrating that he wasn’t using a torch. Working way harder then he needs to. I wouldn’t even begin to attempt to work on any of that machine without one but I’ve been repairing heavy equipment for 15 years and autos for longer so I’ve learned how much of a game changer a torch is
Working on that old Cat looks like a lot of misery. If he was getting shop rate for his labor , he could probably have bought a much better used machine than that old wreck.
your right to save every part you can , even if you don't need it might come in handy to trade for parts you need and cant get otherwise . Man its fighting every step of the way ! You have really earned that first ride in spades when its finished
After 70+ years of iron work I've found that heating the bolt only swells it BUT by heating the surrounding area you expand that area and whats holding the bolt tight hence the bolt comes out easier. JUST as you heated the adjusting nut vs the threaded shaft. Just a hint hope it helps...Remember heat expands and cold contracts, with the exception of water.
Layman POV: yes, weld the nut to the remnant , but then drill it! That really allows good cooling from the INside with the surrounding area still hot! Worth a try?
You a very wise to ask questions and want to learn. Good for you, keep asking if you are getting answers. Keep being very safe while working on this large and heavy project.
Great videos on repairs of Big Red . Brings back memories of my early working days in Northern Australia operating dozens and scrapers . The dozer at that time was a Fiat Allis , same size as a cat D8 . We used to weld and reprofile the sprocket teeth with hard facing rods . Also the track rollers . Method was to cut a steel 44 gallon drum in 3 rds . Using the bottom 3 Rd fill it with water . Lay the track roller across the top so the axis is on either side of the drum and the roller is partially submerged in water . Start welding with hard facing rods small section then rotate roller hot weld into water to avoid cooking the bearings . Works OK if you have no replacement rollers
When removing broken bolts by welding a nut onto them, you NEED to let the entire thing cool to room/outdoor temperature before trying to remove the bolt. You had the right thought by trying to thermally shock the fastener but you should use a penetrant oil of some sort (i.e. PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40, ect.) Also, just by welding the nut onto the fastener you are thermally shocking it. As long as you let it cool. If you don't let it cool after welding, odds are the fastener is in the hole tighter than before. Another tip I'd like to give you is to get a 3/4" or even a 1" breaker bar. It all comes down to a saying I live by... There is a proper tool for every job. Just the couple of tools you wrecked in this video would have paid for at least one 3/4" breaker bar. Just sayin. About the helicoil, get a timesert or some other heavy duty thread repair insert. In my opinion you should fix the problem not continue doing more damage to more parts to make it work. Keep up the awesome content! I've really support what you're doing! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
Ditto to Fab's comments. When using the "hot spanner" the purpose is to expand everything plus convert some of the rust back to powdery iron - but then you must let everything cool back to stone cold. This compression and differential cooling breaks the joints between the 2 parts and this will allow the penetrating oil in. Welding the nut on does give you something to grab, and also heats the parts up - but again the cooling is the thing that does the trick. If the bolt has an exposed part, it is better to weld on an old bolt rather than the nut. This allows you to get better penetration with the weld and pumps a lot more heat into the parts than you can with the few dabs of weld possible in the nut. Really enjoying sharing your journey - Good Luck, Dave Newcastle, NSW, Australia
@@greypoet2 the goal is to let the heat soak in from the bolt, heating the metal around would mostly be a waste of heat as it would soak into the rest of the part before it gets to the threaded area, but I’m not a professional
When you are welding a nut to a sheered bolt hammer the.weld with a hammer this moulds the weld to the stud and also recline the treads if they were over tightened. Great show man keep up the good work.
One danger with an oxyacetylene torch is damage to the eyes. That pretty blue flame is 7000 degrees hot and casts a light spectrum well into the ultraviolet. Years ago I was helping my brother on a welding job and he gave me a pair of goggles that did not screen out the ultraviolet light. About six hours later my eyes felt as though someone had poured sand into them. I went to the ER and was informed that I had UV burns to my corneas. My eyes hurt like hell for about a week and I had to put antibiotic ointment into both eyes for several weeks. No permanent damage, thankfully.
Real craftsmen, those in it for the craft and the utility rather than those interested in some sort of claim to fame, will be willing to answer your questions about their craft. If it's an honest curiosity they will generally be willing to share their knowledge and time, for they were once in your shoes. The best and most useful things I've EVER learned about metalworking, woodworking, building, welding, hell even cooking, I learned because I found someone who loved the craft and talked to them. Also yeah, best exercise program I ever did was working like a damn maniac repairing farm equipment. I only got fat AFTER I stopped doing that all the time.
Amen to that! I totally agree! Those are the people I search out, and you just KNOW when you meet one! I also truly enjoy just hearing their stories & crazy experiences! Most of these people have done some pretty awesome things in their lives!
Showing all your failures and your perseverance to remedy them is admirable. I can feel myself getting frustrated for you as each welded nut fails. Really interesting stuff. Keep them coming.
When trying to remove broken off bolts after you have welded nuts to them then break out you torch and try to heat the surrounding metal and while I understand it would be nearly impossible to get the track frame glowing hot you should be able to raise its temperature a few hundred degrees once doing so spray the bolt down with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it set for a day or so and then rinse and repeat before putting a wrench or a socket on them. Over the years I have quite good success with doing this and even if the bolt remains stuck what have you lost since this is a time sensitive job. Additionally anytime you use penetrating oil to try and free something up patience is your friend, spraying "goo" on and expecting it to work instant miracles is a fool's errand. Good job on getting all the broken bolts out. Instead of using Heilicoil (sp) consider using "Timeserts" instead in general they are in my opinion a better solution for most applications.
I agree with the comments below relating to let it cool. One additional thought, ready to assemble? Paint the parts to protect from future rusting. Great job getting things done. Helicoil and other fastener repair tools are better than drilling to a larger size. They maintain the originality of the bolts used and are stronger than the base material. Looking forward to seeing you drive this puppy for years to come.. Thanks for sharing.
Awesome to know there are still people who know how to do stuff. Old Red reminds me of my childhood, was raised on a farm and when we needed extra money we would buy junk equipment and rehab it. Someone commented to get off the ground whenever you can to work. Trust me, do that. I’m an old man now and all I can say is, “you think it hurts now”🙂
You know those “tie down screw chain binders” used for securing heavy equipment in transport. Modified, maybe that might work for your track tensioner. It includes an acme screw. Good stuff love watching
I sell tool and it makes me cringe seeing a 10ft bar on a half inch drive. At least once a week someone is coming into the shop making a warranty claim. I always ask, “how long was the pipe?” The ones that haven’t learned will respond, “only 8 ft” and you want me to warranty it?
Hard facing rods are designed for that purpose. As the weld deposit cools it hardens to working hardness. The chisel that you used to fill in is a high carbon steel - you can see this from the number of sparks generated but they don't fork much. Alloy steel sparks forks a lot. While the carbon steel is hardenable - only the cutting edge would be hardened. The shank would normally not be hardened to make it tougher. Did you test it with a file ? If hard the file will skate over the surface and not dig in. Keep up the great work, Dave
@@JonDingle Yeah, sorry - thought that your suggestion on hard facing was spot on, so I just wanted to add a bit of extra info. I come from a family of blacksmiths and qualified as a metallurgist - worked 20 years in steel plant in charge of castings, forging and heat treating. Probably why i love this restoration project so much - all the enjoyment without any pain or dirt ;-)
@@ramsaustralia68 No problem young man. Sadly l don't come from a background like yours, the nearest l can get is my grandfather was a boilermaker and engineer at Horwich Locomotive Works near Bolton, Lancashire, England and then he worked at SKF Bearings in Watford, England as an engineering foreman. I am a self taught, unqualified (at the moment) welder thst does farm welding and fabrication work as a self employed man. I put up a few videos myself and enjoy these restoration jobs. We can all learn from it, even at my age of 54! Top regards!
@@ramsaustralia68 It's not a bad idea at all, but it's not SUPPOSED to be a wear location (even though it'll prolly wear there again!) I don't have any hard facing rod at the moment!
Your doing a great job , some people just don't understand why we put so much work into fixing something that requires so many man hours for restoration , but I get it . Thank you for your vision . It will be remarkable when it's finished .
Seeing you swing that hammer reminds me of what my dad used to tell me, "Son, it'll either kill you or make a man out of you!" !!! You keep on swinging...
Yeah, I commented the same thing. His "thermal shock" technique is freezing the cellular structure of the metal in a molten state. It will always be brittle after that.
@@SortaProfessional89 I think it will only get brittle if it is a higher carbon steel. Mild steel shouldn’t. Also he is letting it normalize at room temp and not flash quenching it.
@@tropifiori I think we are talking about 2 different things. I was talking about when he was attempting to weld nuts to the old bolts 🔩 to remove them. He sprayed it with brake cleaner lol, I truthfully think that wasn't going to work either way but letting it cool off would have given it a better chance.
You have the patients of Job. I would have thrown in the towel way sooner. I want to thank you for showing all your failures as well as your successes. I'm learning things along with you. Keep going!!
When reassembling the rollers, just remember to put a single flange roller at the position closest to the sprocket, and a double flange roller at the position closest to the idler. Then alternate as much as possible, but definitely single at the rear and double at the front.
You are doing excellent work. I have always had better luck with welding washer first to the broken stud then welding a nut on the washer.this gives you more surface area.Always let it cool before you try and spin it off.Best of luck to you.
Just a couple things, when you are trying to remove stuck fast bolts like this try smacking the living shirt out of it in any direction possible first, then drill a small hole in the center through the bolt (the diameter of the drill should be no more than 1/5 the diameter of the bolt). Then weld on your nut, and as soon as the cherry cools out hit it with an impact to tighten it, then reverse and it should buzz right out. No guarantees though, some bolts just wont cooperate. I have worked on lots of snow plow frames and old equipment and sometimes you just have to drill and chase threads. Since you are getting more experience with the oxy-fuel torch setup, I suggest you AlWAYS wear gloves and adequate lense googles. Then get yourself a gouging tip for your specific torch, it makes flush cutting bolt heads super clean and fast. Now the one BIG thing, when you get that tip go and gouge that chisel shank out of the frame. Its a chisel, made from a high carbon steel, prone to cracking when welded. Some 1018 (A36), 1045, A572, or similiar low-carbon steel is what you should be using. You said you have plenty of it, weld it in and if you are worried about wear than hardface it. Similiar metals with similiar properties for repairs or chances are you are likely waisting your time.
Actually, the Harbor Freight 1/2" 25" long breaker bar is pretty decent ! Lifetime guarantee. Buy two, so that when one breaks you still have one left. Aslo, get an Astro 4980 air hammer. Less time with the hand sledge and cold chisel.
It really does impress me on how adept you are are at working through all the little and big problems you encounter the younger generation of shop kids need to do a week at your shop for perseveerance and focus plus learning the old ways of becoming an all around expert in all things mechanical, great job.
@@SalvageWorkshop It should be pretty easy to figure out when you get to it. Its always in groups of ten so group of ones and zeroes. 10 millimetres is 1 centimetres. 100 centimetres is 1 meter, 1000 metres is 1 kilometre. You will figure it out rather quickly. Only issue comes when you have mix of metric and Imperial sizes.. since you go to figure our witch one is it. Looks metric.. ou its Imperial. Just takes bit extra time to figure but after its easy to work. Honestly new stuff should be all made metric, so over time maybe in hundred years Imperial fades away and future generations learn metric system.
Man I just found this channel but I’m pretty much addicted to watching these projects. I’ve been at work the last two days watching the videos on this cat. You have an amazing work ethic most people don’t have these days. Keep up the good work and interesting videos.
great project but man you do abuse some of your tools, always best to use the correct tool to do the job, it gets expensive abusing tools as they will break, cannot wait for the next instalment as its a great project and like you i love old machines
This is quite the journey. Im diggin every second of it. My step dad taught me to work on big stubborn stuff like tractors and semi trucks. He taught me alot. I never realized how much til i see you removing broken bolts. He always did it the same way...the only way!
I love talking to and getting advice from the older generation and learning new things. Its always so interesting to hear their stories and their experiences. One of my favorite people and always the first one I called if I needed help was my dad but he passed away in Oct but he knew so much about almost everything. Any chance you get to learn new things from the older generation take advantage of it.
Both of my kids are in their early fourties, for as long as I can remember they both have said "ask dad, his mind is full of all kinds of useless shi...uh stuff" My dad has been gone now for 22 years and I still miss his sharing of "stuff"
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is. You need to learn about Time-sert and KeyNSert. Heli-coils work in through holes, too. NEVER use brake cleaner on something you will weld or heat. The fumes can kill you. Bigger breaker bars are your friends.
There's a non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a green can that can be used. You're right about the fumes being dangerous. Brake cleaner in the red can is chlorinbated and gives off dangerouse fumes during the welding process.
Get off your knees young man and keep your work piece up at a comfortable position or later in life you will be paying for it. trust me 45yrs heavy equipment mechanic
I keep telling him that he's also on his way to several nasty hernias and a bad back. All that pulling and lifting will also catch him up - I know, I'm in my late fifties.
Yeah, that's always easier said than done on heavy stuff like this, but you already know that! My pants do have built in knee pads though, they are AMAZING!
You are totally spot on with the knowledge acquisition thing. I love conversing with my customers, you never know what little nugget of wisdom you may have bestowed upon you. Especially the older folks - the lives they have lived and the things they have learned along the way, that stuff is invaluable. My shop is a second-hand bookshop, and over the 10 or so years I've had it I have become an expert in books and authors, most of which I have never read, just by listening to what my customers tell me about this book and that author. It's fascinating. I mean, I read a lot myself too, but there are so many different authors and books I couldn't hope to read them all even if I had ten lifetimes. So any knowledge I can acquire from someone else is precious. My Dad always taught me that if you don't know something then ask someone who does. Mostly people actually want to help, and getting somebody talking about something they are knowledgeable in is surprisingly easy once you tap into that reserve. People essentially like talking about themselves and what they know - if you approach it the right way there is so much top quality knowledge to be acquired, and for free to boot. It's basically a modification of the old "look for the helpers" adage. People are always willing to help out - just sometimes you have to ask.
The Man and the Rusty Sea of Broken Bolts and Pieces. ... and they say: all it takes is patience... it takes: x hammers, xx nuts, xxx welding, xxxx fire, xxxxxWD40, xxxxxx muscle, xxxxxxx patience like an empty universe.
Are you planning on painting all of that over when you're done with a super high rust preventative paint.... Are you going to use also anti-seize copper on all your bolts
I'm 68 and been doing this for roughly 55 years and the best rusted fastener release is to heat up to red heat and instantly quench... it is by far the most effective on the most stubborn cases.
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
I used to see thousands of these undercarriage parts when I worked at the Caterpillar Tractor Plant, nr Glasgow, Scotland..where we produced the D6,D8 and the 977K Traxcavator..which was a similar design to "Old Red"..I never gave much thought to what each part did..but now its interesting to see them all again..I remember heat treatment on the track links, Rollers and pins and bushes..the machines in the factory drilling, boring all the holes in the sub frame and links, the Milling on the link rail, being induction hardened and tempered..so great to follow your videos and enjoy the nostalgia of the 70's and 80's..I admire your work and patience..well done.
Very patient person. Calming to watch his victories realized.
Watching you work and moving heavy iron, breaking fasteners loose I cannot help to think Man Your back is gonna be knackered in 20 years.. Maybe less.
I used work like I was indestructible Now mid 50s I'm disabled with a knackered back.
Please work safe and smart.
Keep up the great content.
Western truck and tractor repair u tube channel. The man is a wealth of info
She's going to be a beaut when you're done. You are very hard working, keep it up! Thank you for sharing the vids!
I sure hope so! It's been a long journey so far, and I really want to RUN this bad boy!
3/4 minimum 1inch preferred on all tools needed for this kind of work! A Hougan Mag drill is made for drilling out BIG frozen bolts studs guide pins. I retired in 2010 as a member of the Steamfitters Local 598 Pasco Wash. Everything in this line of work is heavy construction 1 inch nuts are just the start on disassembly on the equipment we service! LOL! 1 1/2 to 4 inch nuts are common! Hydraulic nut busters are used too! I admire your never give up attitude young man! Watch out for your fingers and toes! GIT ER DONE!
LOL, dont know why but I seem to be heavily invested in watching "Old Red's" Journey :O)
Me too.
Same.
LOL... I feel the same way!
Hell yes I think it's almost like a case study in what we as men should strive to be no matter what time are generation.
But God Bless RED 🤘
Me too! Hes going over everything with detail. I love it!
Again, totally fascinated. Looking forward to next time in your shop. Thanks.
"In that I learn something from every man I am his pupil." Emerson Constant pursuit of knowledge is a fine way to live.
Such a great quote!
that's how we learn by listening and from others I wish I had listened to my grandfather more
I fix and restore stuff myself. Nothing as heavy as Old Red but watching others is always satisfying. Love it.
Glad you're enjoying it!
I get into these situations all the time with these old rigs. Learned more than a few handy trick. Gimme a shout if you want to lower the number for times you have to swing that big hammer.
Thank you for filming this and letting us following along with Old Red's journey. I've really been enjoying these videos.
You're most welcome! Glad you're enjoying it!
I enjoy your work. You must have very understanding neighbours.
I'm glad you finally started using that torch. Once you get the hang of it you'll never look back, it can't be stuck if its liquid.
Yeah me too! I'm already loving it! I want to get a rosebud and a few other tips, but this thing is gonna get a LOT of use!
@@SalvageWorkshop Try welding with it! You can do some interesting things, thin gauge steel as well. Soldering to the max. Good Luck!
I found it truly frustrating that he wasn’t using a torch. Working way harder then he needs to. I wouldn’t even begin to attempt to work on any of that machine without one but I’ve been repairing heavy equipment for 15 years and autos for longer so I’ve learned how much of a game changer a torch is
I love how this machine smites you every step of the way and you calmly respond with ever larger tooling.
My back start to hurt just only watching. I like repairs ,but this hard work
I'm exhausted just watching you work. I do like how the dog seemed quiet concerned during the air guitar solo.
This is so satisfying on so many levels. Zen and the Art of Cat Maintenance! 🔥🔥🔥 Thank you for all the hard work!
Working on that old Cat looks like a lot of misery. If he was getting shop rate for his labor , he could probably have bought a much better used machine than that old wreck.
The Art of "Cat" Maintenance, very clever. Well done
your right to save every part you can , even if you don't need it might come in handy to trade for parts you need and cant get otherwise . Man its fighting every step of the way ! You have really earned that first ride in spades when its finished
glad to see you still fixing the old man. old machines have a life thats needs to be remembered
Good evening and thank you for the video, Take Care and stay safe 👍😎🇬🇧.
After 70+ years of iron work I've found that heating the bolt only swells it BUT by heating the surrounding area you expand that area and whats holding the bolt tight hence the bolt comes out easier. JUST as you heated the adjusting nut vs the threaded shaft. Just a hint hope it helps...Remember heat expands and cold contracts, with the exception of water.
Layman POV: yes, weld the nut to the remnant , but then drill it! That really allows good cooling from the INside with the surrounding area still hot! Worth a try?
Your perseverance is admirable.
"It's a good thing no one will ever see it" - Until the "Restoring Old Red - 2088 addition!"
Maybe I should add my initials or sign it!
You a very wise to ask questions and want to learn. Good for you, keep asking if you are getting answers. Keep being very safe while working on this large and heavy project.
Been waiting for another old red video can't get enough.
Glad you're enjoying the project!
Great videos on repairs of Big Red . Brings back memories of my early working days in Northern Australia operating dozens and scrapers .
The dozer at that time was a Fiat Allis , same size as a cat D8 . We used to weld and reprofile the sprocket teeth with hard facing rods . Also the track rollers .
Method was to cut a steel 44 gallon drum in 3 rds . Using the bottom 3 Rd fill it with water . Lay the track roller across the top so the axis is on either side of the drum and the roller is partially submerged in water . Start welding with hard facing rods small section then rotate roller hot weld into water to avoid cooking the bearings . Works OK if you have no replacement rollers
When removing broken bolts by welding a nut onto them, you NEED to let the entire thing cool to room/outdoor temperature before trying to remove the bolt. You had the right thought by trying to thermally shock the fastener but you should use a penetrant oil of some sort (i.e. PB Blaster, Kroil, WD-40, ect.) Also, just by welding the nut onto the fastener you are thermally shocking it. As long as you let it cool. If you don't let it cool after welding, odds are the fastener is in the hole tighter than before. Another tip I'd like to give you is to get a 3/4" or even a 1" breaker bar. It all comes down to a saying I live by... There is a proper tool for every job. Just the couple of tools you wrecked in this video would have paid for at least one 3/4" breaker bar. Just sayin. About the helicoil, get a timesert or some other heavy duty thread repair insert. In my opinion you should fix the problem not continue doing more damage to more parts to make it work. Keep up the awesome content! I've really support what you're doing! Dan @6-4_Fab Glen Rock, PA
Ditto to Fab's comments. When using the "hot spanner" the purpose is to expand everything plus convert some of the rust back to powdery iron - but then you must let everything cool back to stone cold. This compression and differential cooling breaks the joints between the 2 parts and this will allow the penetrating oil in.
Welding the nut on does give you something to grab, and also heats the parts up - but again the cooling is the thing that does the trick. If the bolt has an exposed part, it is better to weld on an old bolt rather than the nut. This allows you to get better penetration with the weld and pumps a lot more heat into the parts than you can with the few dabs of weld possible in the nut.
Really enjoying sharing your journey - Good Luck,
Dave
Newcastle, NSW, Australia
Just a question, wouldn't it be better to heat the surrounding metal so it expands away from the bolt instead of heating the bolt?
@@greypoet2 the goal is to let the heat soak in from the bolt, heating the metal around would mostly be a waste of heat as it would soak into the rest of the part before it gets to the threaded area, but I’m not a professional
Also of note is the heat will make the bolt softer while it’s hot
@@greypoet2 Hi, hard to control where the heat goes as there is a pretty tight contact between the parts.
I’m glad there’s people like you that do this kind of work, cuz I see only a major finger and hand trap for myself.
When you are welding a nut to a sheered bolt hammer the.weld with a hammer this moulds the weld to the stud and also recline the treads if they were over tightened. Great show man keep up the good work.
One danger with an oxyacetylene torch is damage to the eyes. That pretty blue flame is 7000 degrees hot and casts a light spectrum well into the ultraviolet. Years ago I was helping my brother on a welding job and he gave me a pair of goggles that did not screen out the ultraviolet light. About six hours later my eyes felt as though someone had poured sand into them. I went to the ER and was informed that I had UV burns to my corneas. My eyes hurt like hell for about a week and I had to put antibiotic ointment into both eyes for several weeks. No permanent damage, thankfully.
I love your dogs. They are great people.
Real craftsmen, those in it for the craft and the utility rather than those interested in some sort of claim to fame, will be willing to answer your questions about their craft. If it's an honest curiosity they will generally be willing to share their knowledge and time, for they were once in your shoes. The best and most useful things I've EVER learned about metalworking, woodworking, building, welding, hell even cooking, I learned because I found someone who loved the craft and talked to them.
Also yeah, best exercise program I ever did was working like a damn maniac repairing farm equipment. I only got fat AFTER I stopped doing that all the time.
Amen to that! I totally agree! Those are the people I search out, and you just KNOW when you meet one! I also truly enjoy just hearing their stories & crazy experiences! Most of these people have done some pretty awesome things in their lives!
Good lesson, always take those off before removing the chain from the tractor. Always good to learn as you do by doing.
That old rusty crap is like it was assembled with "Always Seize" everything locked up tight and going to fight you to the last thread.
Thats how any thing is, that has spent time shoveling manure. This machine came off a chicken operation I believe.
they didn't have annie-sneez back then. i glob that and die elctric grease on EVER-Y-THING here in the midwest.
"Always seize". You mean "rust"?
@@bow-tiedengineer4453 makes you wonder if they used loc-tite when it was assembled
Nice. Instead of ani- seize, ever seize.
Showing all your failures and your perseverance to remedy them is admirable. I can feel myself getting frustrated for you as each welded nut fails. Really interesting stuff. Keep them coming.
When trying to remove broken off bolts after you have welded nuts to them then break out you torch and try to heat the surrounding metal and while I understand it would be nearly impossible to get the track frame glowing hot you should be able to raise its temperature a few hundred degrees once doing so spray the bolt down with PB Blaster or Kroil and let it set for a day or so and then rinse and repeat before putting a wrench or a socket on them. Over the years I have quite good success with doing this and even if the bolt remains stuck what have you lost since this is a time sensitive job. Additionally anytime you use penetrating oil to try and free something up patience is your friend, spraying "goo" on and expecting it to work instant miracles is a fool's errand. Good job on getting all the broken bolts out. Instead of using Heilicoil (sp) consider using "Timeserts" instead in general they are in my opinion a better solution for most applications.
I agree with the comments below relating to let it cool. One additional thought, ready to assemble? Paint the parts to protect from future rusting.
Great job getting things done. Helicoil and other fastener repair tools are better than drilling to a larger size. They maintain the originality of the bolts used and are stronger than the base material.
Looking forward to seeing you drive this puppy for years to come..
Thanks for sharing.
"CAN'T BE TIGHT IF IT's LIQUID" - This is my life verse. 😂😂
I thought it was “trying to get this nut off” 🤣🤣
Awesome to know there are still people who know how to do stuff. Old Red reminds me of my childhood, was raised on a farm and when we needed extra money we would buy junk equipment and rehab it. Someone commented to get off the ground whenever you can to work. Trust me, do that. I’m an old man now and all I can say is, “you think it hurts now”🙂
You know those “tie down screw chain binders” used for securing heavy equipment in transport. Modified, maybe that might work for your track tensioner. It includes an acme screw.
Good stuff love watching
What is so cool is that when you get finished with the repairs you will have awesome piece of usable equipment. Keep up the good work.
Time to invest in some 3/4” tools, I broke many 1/2” breakers and ratchets before I did.
3/4 or 1" both would make his life so much easier
Definitely 1" heavy machinery tools
Yep same hear spending more on the right size tool save money.
I sell tool and it makes me cringe seeing a 10ft bar on a half inch drive. At least once a week someone is coming into the shop making a warranty claim. I always ask, “how long was the pipe?” The ones that haven’t learned will respond, “only 8 ft” and you want me to warranty it?
@@dustinpoole5106 and a blue tool
THIS OLD TRACTOR IS GIVING YOU A RUN FOR YOUR BUCK BUT YOU ARE NOT GIVEN UP ROCK ON
You've been knocking it out the park with these amazing videos,
👍👍 Fascinating to watch you work feller.
Hard facing rods would have been a better option for building up the track frame ends.
A very interesting project and video!
Hard facing rods are designed for that purpose. As the weld deposit cools it hardens to working hardness.
The chisel that you used to fill in is a high carbon steel - you can see this from the number of sparks generated but they don't fork much. Alloy steel sparks forks a lot.
While the carbon steel is hardenable - only the cutting edge would be hardened. The shank would normally not be hardened to make it tougher. Did you test it with a file ? If hard the file will skate over the surface and not dig in.
Keep up the great work,
Dave
@@ramsaustralia68 Hi Dave, I presume your comment was aimed at the uploader rather than as a reply to me? Very well put and described young man!
@@JonDingle Yeah, sorry - thought that your suggestion on hard facing was spot on, so I just wanted to add a bit of extra info.
I come from a family of blacksmiths and qualified as a metallurgist - worked 20 years in steel plant in charge of castings, forging and heat treating.
Probably why i love this restoration project so much - all the enjoyment without any pain or dirt ;-)
@@ramsaustralia68 No problem young man. Sadly l don't come from a background like yours, the nearest l can get is my grandfather was a boilermaker and engineer at Horwich Locomotive Works near Bolton, Lancashire, England and then he worked at SKF Bearings in Watford, England as an engineering foreman. I am a self taught, unqualified (at the moment) welder thst does farm welding and fabrication work as a self employed man. I put up a few videos myself and enjoy these restoration jobs. We can all learn from it, even at my age of 54!
Top regards!
@@ramsaustralia68 It's not a bad idea at all, but it's not SUPPOSED to be a wear location (even though it'll prolly wear there again!) I don't have any hard facing rod at the moment!
Oh! I bet that feels good when that 7/8 bolt threads in nicely.
“The only stupid question is the unasked one “. Don’t remember who said that besides my father, but it’s a good start
I couldn't agree more!
Ummm. I don't know about that. I've heard alot of stupid questions. A couple even came from my mouth. Lol
Your doing a great job , some people just don't understand why we put so much work into fixing something that requires so many man hours for restoration , but I get it . Thank you for your vision . It will be remarkable when it's finished .
Seeing you swing that hammer reminds me of what my dad used to tell me, "Son, it'll either kill you or make a man out of you!" !!! You keep on swinging...
D*MN Straight it will!
One of many of our hard working Americans! Great learning videos and very interesting, I can watch these all day!
Keep in mind that when you heat metal to red hot and then cool quickly you make the metal brittle. Let cool normally and then try to loosen
Yeah, I commented the same thing. His "thermal shock" technique is freezing the cellular structure of the metal in a molten state. It will always be brittle after that.
@@SortaProfessional89
I think it will only get brittle if it is a higher carbon steel. Mild steel shouldn’t. Also he is letting it normalize at room temp and not flash quenching it.
@@tropifiori I think we are talking about 2 different things. I was talking about when he was attempting to weld nuts to the old bolts 🔩 to remove them. He sprayed it with brake cleaner lol, I truthfully think that wasn't going to work either way but letting it cool off would have given it a better chance.
At home sick with the flu, so I've been binge watching this whole series. Thanks for the entertainment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
you need to get those dogs to the vet, they have a bad case of wigglebutt
We've had them looked at, but apparently it has gotten too far & is no longer curable! I guess we'll just have to deal with it!
@@SalvageWorkshop lmao
You have the patients of Job. I would have thrown in the towel way sooner. I want to thank you for showing all your failures as well as your successes. I'm learning things along with you. Keep going!!
if your leary of heating with a cutting tip like in the video, get a rose bud, much easier to use with little risk of melting, unlike the cutting tip!
You need a 1/3 cut 2/3 cut and full cut tap set to make your life easy... great build by the way. Slightly addicted.
When reassembling the rollers, just remember to put a single flange roller at the position closest to the sprocket, and a double flange roller at the position closest to the idler. Then alternate as much as possible, but definitely single at the rear and double at the front.
pure determination and patience! keep up the good work!
You only snapped off about 5/8" of that tap from what I could tell- just grind a short taper on the remnant and that tap is good for another day..
It will make a good bottoming tap .
@@johnfry9010 I agree! I was already planning to make it a bottoming tap!! Just a few seconds on the 2x72!
yep now its a ..finish..tap
You are doing excellent work. I have always had better luck with welding washer first to the broken stud then welding a nut on the washer.this gives you more surface area.Always let it cool before you try and spin it off.Best of luck to you.
You should collaborate with abom1979 to get those nuts made. Depending on how much they cost
Abom79
But yeah, he'd be perfect for a collab on this.
I’ll second abom79, good people
@Rob Peters Love to watch a master craftsman, please post a link to your videos...
...because until then, you're all hat and no cattle. I'd have this young man on my team in a heartbeat.
I works metals myself so I have deep respect for a man who goes great lengths to get a job done.
You asked for a magdrill, maybe consider converting your magnet to a "magdrill" making a bracket/lever?
Watch how they do it without a mag drill on pakistani truck.
Big rusty stubborn bolts, 101! Nice work, looking forward to the next video👏👏
Just a couple things, when you are trying to remove stuck fast bolts like this try smacking the living shirt out of it in any direction possible first, then drill a small hole in the center through the bolt (the diameter of the drill should be no more than 1/5 the diameter of the bolt). Then weld on your nut, and as soon as the cherry cools out hit it with an impact to tighten it, then reverse and it should buzz right out. No guarantees though, some bolts just wont cooperate. I have worked on lots of snow plow frames and old equipment and sometimes you just have to drill and chase threads. Since you are getting more experience with the oxy-fuel torch setup, I suggest you AlWAYS wear gloves and adequate lense googles. Then get yourself a gouging tip for your specific torch, it makes flush cutting bolt heads super clean and fast. Now the one BIG thing, when you get that tip go and gouge that chisel shank out of the frame. Its a chisel, made from a high carbon steel, prone to cracking when welded. Some 1018 (A36), 1045, A572, or similiar low-carbon steel is what you should be using. You said you have plenty of it, weld it in and if you are worried about wear than hardface it. Similiar metals with similiar properties for repairs or chances are you are likely waisting your time.
I will stay tune until that beast finish restore
Is this the right time to ask, when are you planning to install an overhead crane around your workshop? Awesome video, as always!
Full marks. You are one of the most tenacious individuals I think I have ever seen. 👍
Actually, the Harbor Freight 1/2" 25" long breaker bar is pretty decent ! Lifetime guarantee. Buy two, so that when one breaks you still have one left.
Aslo, get an Astro 4980 air hammer. Less time with the hand sledge and cold chisel.
Is that big nasty?
@@aterack833 Yep !
He may be like me , financially embarrassed haha
I have the 4980 and its a beast unbelievable power. It hasnt been defeated in my garage yet
It really does impress me on how adept you are are at working through all the little and big problems you encounter the younger generation of shop kids need to do a week at your shop for perseveerance and focus plus learning the old ways of becoming an all around expert in all things mechanical, great job.
49/64ths lol Thank God we went metric years ago!
Yeah our system makes no sense, and I WISH I had learned / grew up with the metric system!
@@SalvageWorkshop It should be pretty easy to figure out when you get to it. Its always in groups of ten so group of ones and zeroes. 10 millimetres is 1 centimetres. 100 centimetres is 1 meter, 1000 metres is 1 kilometre.
You will figure it out rather quickly. Only issue comes when you have mix of metric and Imperial sizes.. since you go to figure our witch one is it. Looks metric.. ou its Imperial. Just takes bit extra time to figure but after its easy to work. Honestly new stuff should be all made metric, so over time maybe in hundred years Imperial fades away and future generations learn metric system.
You come up with some clever solutions..! Awesome..!
Maybe the single give a little freeplay to the track , like same principle from WW I tanks
Man I just found this channel but I’m pretty much addicted to watching these projects. I’ve been at work the last two days watching the videos on this cat. You have an amazing work ethic most people don’t have these days. Keep up the good work and interesting videos.
i dont think it was just sweat equity i think that was refusing to be beaten by an old peice of metal
Nice to see some of the younger generation has grit and determination. Nice work!
20:55 The more you know the more your aware there is much more to know. Only idiots think they know everything.
LOTS of hard work and good thinking. I wish I could give you more than one thumbs up.
Are you really gonna slap it back onto the machine without even sandblasting and at least splashing some red oxide on it?
I used your knowledge philosophy my whole working life and retired satisfied with my experience, many people learned from me as well.
great project but man you do abuse some of your tools, always best to use the correct tool to do the job, it gets expensive abusing tools as they will break, cannot wait for the next instalment as its a great project and like you i love old machines
A man with a hammer only see's nails, but a man with a welder see's whatever the hell he wants!
This is quite the journey. Im diggin every second of it. My step dad taught me to work on big stubborn stuff like tractors and semi trucks. He taught me alot. I never realized how much til i see you removing broken bolts. He always did it the same way...the only way!
2:55 my back just went out a little bit watching this
I love talking to and getting advice from the older generation and learning new things. Its always so interesting to hear their stories and their experiences. One of my favorite people and always the first one I called if I needed help was my dad but he passed away in Oct but he knew so much about almost everything. Any chance you get to learn new things from the older generation take advantage of it.
Both of my kids are in their early fourties, for as long as I can remember they both have said "ask dad, his mind is full of all kinds of useless shi...uh stuff"
My dad has been gone now for 22 years and I still miss his sharing of "stuff"
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
You need to learn about Time-sert and KeyNSert. Heli-coils work in through holes, too.
NEVER use brake cleaner on something you will weld or heat. The fumes can kill you.
Bigger breaker bars are your friends.
There's a non-chlorinated brake cleaner in a green can that can be used. You're right about the fumes being dangerous. Brake cleaner in the red can is chlorinbated and gives off dangerouse fumes during the welding process.
I was also afraid of using a torch. Now I think it's fun to use it.
Get off your knees young man and keep your work piece up at a comfortable position or later in life you will be paying for it. trust me 45yrs heavy equipment mechanic
I keep telling him that he's also on his way to several nasty hernias and a bad back. All that pulling and lifting will also catch him up - I know, I'm in my late fifties.
haha try telling a young fit bloke that anything he is doing now will come back to haunt him when older... good luck w that.
He may already know. He lifts like he has already injured his back.
Yeah, that's always easier said than done on heavy stuff like this, but you already know that! My pants do have built in knee pads though, they are AMAZING!
@@rustynail4676 I lift like that to AVOID an injury!
You are totally spot on with the knowledge acquisition thing. I love conversing with my customers, you never know what little nugget of wisdom you may have bestowed upon you. Especially the older folks - the lives they have lived and the things they have learned along the way, that stuff is invaluable.
My shop is a second-hand bookshop, and over the 10 or so years I've had it I have become an expert in books and authors, most of which I have never read, just by listening to what my customers tell me about this book and that author. It's fascinating. I mean, I read a lot myself too, but there are so many different authors and books I couldn't hope to read them all even if I had ten lifetimes. So any knowledge I can acquire from someone else is precious.
My Dad always taught me that if you don't know something then ask someone who does. Mostly people actually want to help, and getting somebody talking about something they are knowledgeable in is surprisingly easy once you tap into that reserve. People essentially like talking about themselves and what they know - if you approach it the right way there is so much top quality knowledge to be acquired, and for free to boot. It's basically a modification of the old "look for the helpers" adage. People are always willing to help out - just sometimes you have to ask.
The Man and the Rusty Sea of Broken Bolts and Pieces. ... and they say: all it takes is patience... it takes: x hammers, xx nuts, xxx welding, xxxx fire, xxxxxWD40, xxxxxx muscle, xxxxxxx patience like an empty universe.
Patients is way over rated
You are a brave uncle!
And don't tap holes when the metal is hot, when it cools it will contract and the bolts can be too tight.
The word 'perseverance' comes to mind...
Are you planning on painting all of that over when you're done with a super high rust preventative paint.... Are you going to use also anti-seize copper on all your bolts
I'm 68 and been doing this for roughly 55 years and the best rusted fastener release is to heat up to red heat and instantly quench... it is by far the most effective on the most stubborn cases.
How many times have you asked yourself "What have I gotten myself into?
Only a few times, but I've been in deeper hole throughout life, so I can handle anything "Old Red" can throw at me! I don't give up.... EVER!
Thanks for sharing some good info. Restoring equipment is a cool and fun thing to do. maybe just watching but ill be finding out soon.
Buddy, don't be scared of pulling that oxy acetylene setup out. It will speed up your teardowns significantly.
Incredible amount of sweat equity being poured into this machine, well done!