The original screws were not Philips screws, they followed JIS (Japanese Industry Standard), if you use a JIS screwdriver, the original screws work well.
Good move replacing phillips head screws with hex head. Nothing more satisfying than upgrading little bits like that, knowing that you've cleaned them up and made them easier to service.
"Regular screws strip out" tell me about it dude, I think every mikuni venturi carb I've cleaned for a client has had stripped screws. That's why I love doing the yfz450r and other quads and bikes with the kehin fcr flatslide
Quick question. I just swapped the 2000 600cbr motor into my Yamaha warrior. Having issues where the carbs are straight dumping gas. At 1st it was only running on 2 cylinders. Now flooding. Pull carbs. Cleaned everything. Reinstall. Its same carb setup you run. Do the bigger hoses matter on the carb?
I do! Your timing is spot on! My damn brake discs arrived on Friday. So a brake caliper and wheel hub rebuild is happening next week and then the suspension assembly the week after hopefully.
I have an ancient video on soda blasting. This wasn't dirty enough to require any sort of blasting, the point was to clean the jets and the various circuits inside the carb.
For anything Japanese you will want a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. They are not phillips screws! Look for the little dimples in the corner of each screw head, which indicates it is a JIS screw. Many a set of carbs have their screws butchered from idiots using phillips bits on them...
They were ultrasonic cleaned by DanST which was done pretty decently but I decided to kick it up a notch and do a full cleaning and disassembly to hit things even the ultrasonic bath can't. Also the pilot jets somehow got clogged from the total of 30 minutes and maybe 4 times the engine ran for tuning and testing. How and why that happened is beyond me. Maybe they weren't clean enough after all, and fuel dissolved some old crud and it got into the pilot jets. Who knows. They are clean now, that's for sure.
tbh, if they aren't cleaned enough there is no point in buying them from as a package is there? I mean the whole point off buying the set from them is that you yourself don't need to build/adjust/clean them yourself? I'd like to hear your POV on this though? Nice video btw, nice and detailed.
That is a fair point. Before I decided to go with danST I did browse around for a used set. I looked at a few sets from junkyards and one from a private seller. Honestly, the junkyard ones were horrible and would need so much cleaning it's unreal. They needed all new gaskets and one set had damaged floats. I was lucky the junkyard owners would leave me unattended so I could take a really detailed look. The carbs were around 60-70 usd but needed at least another 100 to get them into decent shape. The carbs from the private seller were better but he was parting out his crashed bike and wanted to sell the engine as a whole and asked 120 for the carbs. The danst carbs do cost more when you calculate the price but they were A LOT cleaner than any of these and all the gaskets were in perfect condition, throttle plates and bores have almost no wear at all on them, and they came with brand new 160 main jets, which is like 25-30 usd. So, yes, you might save some money buying carbs from somewhere else, but you need take into account the time and money you will spend shopping around and restoring them and the fact that you know are getting a good set from dan. The danST ones were definitely ok, no major dirt anywhere, not as clean as they are now, but to be honest I did want to take apart this set and dive deeper into the carbs as I am becoming really fond of carburetors in general.
@@d4a oh thanks, couldn't find an answer online anywhere. Is the only way you can clean it by spraying carb cleaner down it and maybe some thin wire? seems odd that you cant take it out and clean the jet in it
@@d4a ah cheers, yeah I heard fishing line can work too. I got them all rebuilt anyway last night, they are R1 carbs and I hope they work as well as yours, I know some people say the lower displacement bike carbs work nicer but eh we will see
Carb cleaner: amzn.to/2pikcDS
A handy air blow gun for this: amzn.to/2BNRPQT
The original screws were not Philips screws, they followed JIS (Japanese Industry Standard), if you use a JIS screwdriver, the original screws work well.
Good move replacing phillips head screws with hex head. Nothing more satisfying than upgrading little bits like that, knowing that you've cleaned them up and made them easier to service.
Squeaky clean! Nice work.
"Regular screws strip out" tell me about it dude, I think every mikuni venturi carb I've cleaned for a client has had stripped screws. That's why I love doing the yfz450r and other quads and bikes with the kehin fcr flatslide
Yessss D4A !!!!
Quick question. I just swapped the 2000 600cbr motor into my Yamaha warrior.
Having issues where the carbs are straight dumping gas. At 1st it was only running on 2 cylinders. Now flooding. Pull carbs. Cleaned everything. Reinstall.
Its same carb setup you run.
Do the bigger hoses matter on the carb?
When will you start assembling the suspension? I guess you still don't have all the suspension parts
I do! Your timing is spot on! My damn brake discs arrived on Friday. So a brake caliper and wheel hub rebuild is happening next week and then the suspension assembly the week after hopefully.
Have you tried salt as a blasting compound
I have an ancient video on soda blasting. This wasn't dirty enough to require any sort of blasting, the point was to clean the jets and the various circuits inside the carb.
For anything Japanese you will want a set of JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdrivers. They are not phillips screws! Look for the little dimples in the corner of each screw head, which indicates it is a JIS screw.
Many a set of carbs have their screws butchered from idiots using phillips bits on them...
Just replace them with hex screws and done. No need to call anyone an idiot because they don't know or don't have a certain tool.
This are 5mm threads, the pitch is .8, the same for standard and jis.
Hello, where did you get those velocity stacks from??
DanSt engineering welded them onto the stock ones.
Where do you buy the bolts from? The website link is suspended.
I hot the same carbs but they are leaking badly from their fuel lines,so...,will a gasket maker help not to leak?
Toyota KP-36 Channel Take a look at your float valves first
driving 4 answers They are good,it happens to have it on my side now,sooo,it's easier
weren't they pre-cleaned from the seller? I thought you bought them from BoggBros (or danSTengeneering)
They were ultrasonic cleaned by DanST which was done pretty decently but I decided to kick it up a notch and do a full cleaning and disassembly to hit things even the ultrasonic bath can't. Also the pilot jets somehow got clogged from the total of 30 minutes and maybe 4 times the engine ran for tuning and testing. How and why that happened is beyond me. Maybe they weren't clean enough after all, and fuel dissolved some old crud and it got into the pilot jets. Who knows. They are clean now, that's for sure.
ahaa, alrighty 😇
guess there's nothing like "too much" of cleaning after all =D
Do you plan balancing them as well or you think they're fine?)
tbh, if they aren't cleaned enough there is no point in buying them from as a package is there? I mean the whole point off buying the set from them is that you yourself don't need to build/adjust/clean them yourself?
I'd like to hear your POV on this though?
Nice video btw, nice and detailed.
Yes, there will be a balancing video too.
That is a fair point. Before I decided to go with danST I did browse around for a used set. I looked at a few sets from junkyards and one from a private seller. Honestly, the junkyard ones were horrible and would need so much cleaning it's unreal. They needed all new gaskets and one set had damaged floats. I was lucky the junkyard owners would leave me unattended so I could take a really detailed look. The carbs were around 60-70 usd but needed at least another 100 to get them into decent shape. The carbs from the private seller were better but he was parting out his crashed bike and wanted to sell the engine as a whole and asked 120 for the carbs. The danst carbs do cost more when you calculate the price but they were A LOT cleaner than any of these and all the gaskets were in perfect condition, throttle plates and bores have almost no wear at all on them, and they came with brand new 160 main jets, which is like 25-30 usd. So, yes, you might save some money buying carbs from somewhere else, but you need take into account the time and money you will spend shopping around and restoring them and the fact that you know are getting a good set from dan. The danST ones were definitely ok, no major dirt anywhere, not as clean as they are now, but to be honest I did want to take apart this set and dive deeper into the carbs as I am becoming really fond of carburetors in general.
Who makes that plate for ur filter?
DanStengineering
what is the jet that doesn't have a removable head, I want to clean inside it but it does not seem to be removable. Anyone know what it is?
It's what the choke circuit gets its fuel through
@@d4a oh thanks, couldn't find an answer online anywhere. Is the only way you can clean it by spraying carb cleaner down it and maybe some thin wire? seems odd that you cant take it out and clean the jet in it
Don't use wire it can damage the brass stuff easily. Compressed air is best.
@@d4a ah cheers, yeah I heard fishing line can work too. I got them all rebuilt anyway last night, they are R1 carbs and I hope they work as well as yours, I know some people say the lower displacement bike carbs work nicer but eh we will see
It really sucks that you didn't put it back together on video