Super. I still use eight different couplers on my railroad, including Kadee knuckle, X2f hornhook, (And store bought radial versions of both for the trolley line, which has 4 and 3/4 inch radius curve (Eldon) paved street trackage & freight.) Mantua loop, Maerklin Relex, Link and Pin, Proto 2000 universal couplers, 8 European scale hand screw couplers, (Imported crane car, boom car, tool car, plus bunk car and caboose Kadee knuckle to Hand screw coupler conversion cars. I don't uncouple them very often.) and Walthers cast metal dummy knuckle couplers. I also have a piece of scale size chain with scale size hooks on each end, just in case. This provides for some interesting operation, especially outside as some couplers don't like the snow, and requires a number of coupler conversion cars to keep things operating smoothly. I may be the only model railroad in the world that can couple one of my railroads locomotives to any HO scale rolling stock ever made, and it is nice to buy a used car and be able operate it without having to do surgery on it first. I bet not many of you have seen a Mantua loop to Maerklin Relex, or a Kadee Knuckle to Link and Pin coupler conversion car, and not many modelers still operate a Kadee Knuckle to X2f hornhook coupler conversion car anymore. I have one short section of yard track that has an electrically operated uncoupler, a manually operated uncoupler, and a Kadee uncoupling magnet. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Hi Ben, The reason Kadee , (I pronounce it Kay- Dee not Cad- e ) produce so many different couplers is so that there is one to fit almost any car or locomotive The important thing is that the knuckle heads align with one another. Not all car floors are at the same height so there are overset shanks for high floors and underset shanks for low floors. I use every product Kadee produces. I even have one car that required different couplers on each end just to bring them into line with the coupler height gauge. Regards, David.
Hi David, yes I believe the way you pronounce it, is the correct way. It's an old bad habit of mine! Lol!. Yes, its insane how many products they make. I'm currently looking at ones to replace the couplers on my old Rivarossi Heavyweights. I know Kadee also makes shims that can help with your coupler height. At the end of the day, the video was intended to show a beginner or intermediate modeler that there are a lot more choices than the old standard no. 5. The 148 being my choice. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Take care and talk soon, Ben
Excellent video - exactly what I was looking for. MDC Roundhouse, Athearn Blue Box and such are becoming the retro standard for those modeling on a budget.
Absolutely it's so true! But even when you look at some of the greatest model railroads, they are still loaded with blue box and roundhouse cars. Although I may not submit a photo of a blue box for the cover of a magazine, they still work and look great on an operating railroad. Thanks for watching and your comment.
I was using Kadee #5s for years, but recently I saw a video on TH-cam where the person was using Kadee #148 whisker couplers, and they seemed very easy to install. I ordered a pack of 50 and used them to replace older couplers. I just ordered another pack and will use these to replace more #5s. The extra piece on the 5s does wear out after a while, so these are a great replacement coupler.
I use KaDee #156 and #158 couplers.I use the long shank 156's on cars that are supposed to have the longer shank.And I use 158's on just about everything else.😊
For freight cars I like the #158 and #58 coupler, the whisker is not always the best choice, on some engines I use the #58 ( non-whisker) with 30 series draft gears. I like the #118 (tight-lock) for passenger trains, they work real well for push-pull commuter trains and won't fold when pushing.
One of the biggest tricks is to get Kadee's to match the height gauge. Even some of the highest quality top shelf rolling stock such as Moloco, Athearn Genesis etc. often still need the coupler height tweaked to match the gauge.
I myself use mostly vintage Kadee #5's (from when they were first introduced (courtesy of my late Grandpa). I DO however use a few different types like the old AHM universal couplers as a means to pull consists of freight or passenger that still have the old horn hooks and or knuckle couplers . And i even have a mixture of the way more older couplers that Wm. K. Walther's had available from 1947 through the 1960's ,used on my older wood/metal coach kits. All in all, everything i use is miles better than those fragile E-Z Mate couplers that "Botchmann" uses.Those always broke too often.
Great vid, Kadees, as far as I know for sure about my rolling stock. Also got some older stuff with the abominable Fleischmann tension lock or the Roco Märklin version. Definitely will look into the Kadee 158’s. Am also very interested in the Sergent couplers, due to an excellent vid from Tim Warris on his Bronx Terminal and couplers. For the visual quality I would choose the latter. All depends what I will do with uncoupling. Mainly model transit. Some maintenance of way Brooklyn South Railway traffic might be interesting to do some magnetic uncoupling with. Rails partly covered by elevated track; makes it hard to uncouple with a stick. Definitely will need magnets there. Thanks 🙏 for sharing!
On Athearn cars the highest point of those coupler springs won't allow the Coupler "cover" is what call them, to seat properly and you don't hear it click into place. I only use #148s
Personally I'm a fan and defender of the McHenry - I find they just tend to work the best and as a bonus they look very prototypical too. Plus, I've never had problems using them with Kadee couplers, so there's just really no downside in my opinion besides the fact they're plastic, so they might not be as strong as some other couplers, but to be honest if you're pulling something so hard the coupler snaps you're doing something wrong anyway.
It's Pronounced "KAY-dee", But However You Pronounce It, You Still Have Made My Decision About Which Type Of Couplers To Use. Which Will Be "Kadee #158". I Have Been Into Model Railroading Since The Mid 70's When I Was A Teenager. ALL Of My Locomotives & Rolling Stock Have The Old "Horn Hook" Type. I Want To Update The Couplers So I Can Buy More Rolling Stock. I Thank You For Making This Video. It Was Quite Informative.
If you want to go even more prototypical checkout Sergent Engineering couplers. Now that Im in HOn3 the defacto standard is the Kadee (pronounced kay-dee) #714. I've been debating switching to Sergent sharon couplers but they need to be assembled and it looks lke a royal pain. Ive heard you can use the #158 bi the #714 draft gear box but you would need to cut the trip pin off: I have no issue with that. The problem is, for narrow gauge the #158 is a standard gauge coupler which was only used on a couple well known NG roads and typically set at standard gauge height as well. The problem with the #714 is A) it doesn't look prototypical at all and they tend to have the "slinky" effect. Hmm, what to do...
That's great to hear and thank you! Another coupler company that's pretty popular right now is Sergeant Engineering. They are probably the most prototypical looking ones but I dont think they are operative with magnetic uncoupling tools. But worth checking out as well if your starting over again. But for me I'm sticking with Kadee. Super reliable and available everywhere! Thanks for watching!
@@CreativeRails - I've been watching some videos about the Sergeant couplers. They can be uncoupled with a simple magnetic tool that is available from Sergeant. (I'm not sure if they work as well with other brands of magnetic tools.) Anyway, I think I prefer the Kadee 158's at this point, and they look good enough to me.
I'm looking at changing my manual tycl couplers to kadee ho couplers I'm wondering if these couplers are compatible for use on tyco Mantua rolling stock
I use what ever comes on the cars. 8 years into the hobby and Coupler tradition is not one of the things I worry about, & honestly when ever someone says "use such & such couplers" I roll my eyes.
I use 158s.Scalehead couplers all the way.I this the number 5s look like an s scale coupler.Sorry for that.As for the compatibility of #5s and #158s.They do work well coupled together.95% of my car and locomotive fleet has the scalehad couplers.About 5% dose not.And I will be selling all the #5s when I'm finished converting the rest of my cars in the next 3 weeks.
Thanks for this video,it answers a lot of my questions about which couplers to use. Your explanation of why you use 158 Kadee makes sense. Thank you so much. I subscribed to your channel and I plan on giving your channel a plug on my channel. Your will hear from me again... Wilmer- IHVRR
Thanks so much Wilmer for commenting. I'm glad the video was able to help you out. I just checked out your latest show and I love it! I just subscribed. Keep up the great work!
Creative Rails i use the 158 on my locos because i take them to train shows and show them off and i use them in my cabooses the freight cars i use #5 and # 148
Because what was "stock" in the past is no longer "stock" now, rendering older and newer equipment incompatible. Also, some newer equipment is equipped with stock McHenry couplers which many people claim tend to break (IDK myself). Kadee's are metal.
Hey thanks for the follow... for a while... lol! My apologies for not having a different camera angle. The video was not intended as a "how to". I was just trying to demonstrate how quick one could be popped in and installed. If you notice the main camera was done in one take. Thanks for watching!
You said you would show us how to do some things and then we watched your face while you were doing those things off-screen. Also, I don't know what you mean by "universal".
By universal, I mean it is a standard coupler size that will fit almost any coupler box on any piece of rolling stock or locomotive. It's "universal". Thanks for watching!
@@CreativeRails I appreciate your attempt to explain but you are still "talking past me". Having never owned HO trains, I have no idea what a "coupler box" is. P.S. Even when you held the cars up so they were visible within the camera's field of view, the lighting was so poor I didn't understand what you were trying to show us.
@@rogermetzger7335 oh I see... my apologies. The video was intended for more advanced model railroaders. I didn't even think of how it would be perceived from someone just starting out. Thanks so much for the advice. I'll keep it in mind for future uploads. Because it is my intention to make the hobby easy for people to start.
@@CreativeRails You are welcome. In case you want to let me know when you post additional videos, here is my email address. r.metzger44@gmail.com P.S. I'm 76 and electronically challenged.
I think the Kadee #5 are becoming less popular as they are replaced by the whisker style...less parts to fail. What I can't stand are those little clips Athearn used to retain the coupler. A good percent eventually fall off or break.
First of all stop picking on him on how he pronounced kadee.. Great video instated to put those on all my rolling stock... Looks better. The #5 and proto max i save those for my sons locos and his rolling stock...
Super. I still use eight different couplers on my railroad, including Kadee knuckle, X2f hornhook, (And store bought radial versions of both for the trolley line, which has 4 and 3/4 inch radius curve (Eldon) paved street trackage & freight.) Mantua loop, Maerklin Relex, Link and Pin, Proto 2000 universal couplers, 8 European scale hand screw couplers, (Imported crane car, boom car, tool car, plus bunk car and caboose Kadee knuckle to Hand screw coupler conversion cars. I don't uncouple them very often.) and Walthers cast metal dummy knuckle couplers. I also have a piece of scale size chain with scale size hooks on each end, just in case. This provides for some interesting operation, especially outside as some couplers don't like the snow, and requires a number of coupler conversion cars to keep things operating smoothly. I may be the only model railroad in the world that can couple one of my railroads locomotives to any HO scale rolling stock ever made, and it is nice to buy a used car and be able operate it without having to do surgery on it first. I bet not many of you have seen a Mantua loop to Maerklin Relex, or a Kadee Knuckle to Link and Pin coupler conversion car, and not many modelers still operate a Kadee Knuckle to X2f hornhook coupler conversion car anymore. I have one short section of yard track that has an electrically operated uncoupler, a manually operated uncoupler, and a Kadee uncoupling magnet. Hello from the Tracy Mountain Railway in Colorado. 💙 T.E.N.
Hi Ben, The reason Kadee , (I pronounce it Kay- Dee not Cad- e ) produce so many different couplers is so that there is one to fit almost any car or locomotive The important thing is that the knuckle heads align with one another. Not all car floors are at the same height so there are overset shanks for high floors and underset shanks for low floors. I use every product Kadee produces. I even have one car that required different couplers on each end just to bring them into line with the coupler height gauge. Regards, David.
Hi David, yes I believe the way you pronounce it, is the correct way. It's an old bad habit of mine! Lol!. Yes, its insane how many products they make. I'm currently looking at ones to replace the couplers on my old Rivarossi Heavyweights. I know Kadee also makes shims that can help with your coupler height. At the end of the day, the video was intended to show a beginner or intermediate modeler that there are a lot more choices than the old standard no. 5. The 148 being my choice. Thanks so much for watching and commenting! Take care and talk soon,
Ben
Excellent video - exactly what I was looking for. MDC Roundhouse, Athearn Blue Box and such are becoming the retro standard for those modeling on a budget.
Absolutely it's so true! But even when you look at some of the greatest model railroads, they are still loaded with blue box and roundhouse cars. Although I may not submit a photo of a blue box for the cover of a magazine, they still work and look great on an operating railroad. Thanks for watching and your comment.
I was using Kadee #5s for years, but recently I saw a video on TH-cam where the person was using Kadee #148 whisker couplers, and they seemed very easy to install. I ordered a pack of 50 and used them to replace older couplers. I just ordered another pack and will use these to replace more #5s. The extra piece on the 5s does wear out after a while, so these are a great replacement coupler.
Sounds like great minds think alike! 😉
I use KaDee #156 and #158 couplers.I use the long shank 156's on cars that are supposed to have the longer shank.And I use 158's on just about everything else.😊
For freight cars I like the #158 and #58 coupler, the whisker is not always the best choice, on some engines I use the #58 ( non-whisker) with 30 series draft gears. I like the #118 (tight-lock) for passenger trains, they work real well for push-pull commuter trains and won't fold when pushing.
Hi Ben, I'm like you as I also don't like the little copper things. Love the kadee 158 whisker couplers.
One of the biggest tricks is to get Kadee's to match the height gauge. Even some of the highest quality top shelf rolling stock such as Moloco, Athearn Genesis etc. often still need the coupler height tweaked to match the gauge.
I myself use mostly vintage Kadee #5's (from when they were first introduced (courtesy of my late Grandpa). I DO however use a few different types like the old AHM universal couplers as a means to pull consists of freight or passenger that still have the old horn hooks and or knuckle couplers . And i even have a mixture of the way more older couplers that Wm. K. Walther's had available from 1947 through the 1960's ,used on my older wood/metal coach kits. All in all, everything i use is miles better than those fragile E-Z Mate couplers that "Botchmann" uses.Those always broke too often.
I will say I've been using 118s and 119s which are both shelf type couplers they are amazing I've never had any issues with mine
I, too, converted to whisker couplers a long time ago. #5s are more complicated than a coupler needs to be.
I liked the suggestion, to they run a bit more in price?
Kadee for me all the way since 1996.
Nice!!! Theirs also a number of other different number KADEES that you can use too, for other applications.
Great vid, Kadees, as far as I know for sure about my rolling stock. Also got some older stuff with the abominable Fleischmann tension lock or the Roco Märklin version.
Definitely will look into the Kadee 158’s. Am also very interested in the Sergent couplers, due to an excellent vid from Tim Warris on his Bronx Terminal and couplers. For the visual quality I would choose the latter. All depends what I will do with uncoupling. Mainly model transit. Some maintenance of way Brooklyn South Railway traffic might be interesting to do some magnetic uncoupling with.
Rails partly covered by elevated track; makes it hard to uncouple with a stick. Definitely will need magnets there.
Thanks 🙏 for sharing!
On Athearn cars the highest point of those coupler springs won't allow the Coupler "cover" is what call them, to seat properly and you don't hear it click into place. I only use #148s
Personally I'm a fan and defender of the McHenry - I find they just tend to work the best and as a bonus they look very prototypical too.
Plus, I've never had problems using them with Kadee couplers, so there's just really no downside in my opinion besides the fact they're plastic, so they might not be as strong as some other couplers, but to be honest if you're pulling something so hard the coupler snaps you're doing something wrong anyway.
It's Pronounced "KAY-dee", But However You Pronounce It, You Still Have Made My Decision About Which Type Of Couplers To Use. Which Will Be "Kadee #158". I Have Been Into Model Railroading Since The Mid 70's When I Was A Teenager. ALL Of My Locomotives & Rolling Stock Have The Old "Horn Hook" Type. I Want To Update The Couplers So I Can Buy More Rolling Stock. I Thank You For Making This Video. It Was Quite Informative.
Ben , thanks I need some couplers was not what type I should buy, and yes ones with copper insert , junk so I ordered a pair of 148 and 158 couplers
Nice James! 148 are great too they are basically the same, they just have a standard head.
@@CreativeRails your video helped out a lot, just was not sure so i ordered both
If you want to go even more prototypical checkout Sergent Engineering couplers. Now that Im in HOn3 the defacto standard is the Kadee (pronounced kay-dee) #714. I've been debating switching to Sergent sharon couplers but they need to be assembled and it looks lke a royal pain. Ive heard you can use the #158 bi the #714 draft gear box but you would need to cut the trip pin off: I have no issue with that. The problem is, for narrow gauge the #158 is a standard gauge coupler which was only used on a couple well known NG roads and typically set at standard gauge height as well. The problem with the #714 is A) it doesn't look prototypical at all and they tend to have the "slinky" effect. Hmm, what to do...
Awesome video, great information!!!! I am getting back into trains after a very long break, and looking to see what is current in the hobby.
That's great to hear and thank you! Another coupler company that's pretty popular right now is Sergeant Engineering. They are probably the most prototypical looking ones but I dont think they are operative with magnetic uncoupling tools. But worth checking out as well if your starting over again. But for me I'm sticking with Kadee. Super reliable and available everywhere! Thanks for watching!
@@CreativeRails - I've been watching some videos about the Sergeant couplers. They can be uncoupled with a simple magnetic tool that is available from Sergeant. (I'm not sure if they work as well with other brands of magnetic tools.) Anyway, I think I prefer the Kadee 158's at this point, and they look good enough to me.
Do the #158 couplers work with old school TYCO/Life-Like/Bachmann cars from the 70's and 80's?
I'm looking at changing my manual tycl couplers to kadee ho couplers I'm wondering if these couplers are compatible for use on tyco Mantua rolling stock
Kadee 148 is the way to go
I use what ever comes on the cars. 8 years into the hobby and Coupler tradition is not one of the things I worry about, & honestly when ever someone says "use such & such couplers" I roll my eyes.
I hope you're talking about those that push Kadee no. 5's and not me lol!
@@CreativeRails im talking about those #5s.
Caddy?
Tomatoes...Tomottoes.....Kadee...Caddy...148s.
I use 158s.Scalehead couplers all the way.I this the number 5s look like an s scale coupler.Sorry for that.As for the compatibility of #5s and #158s.They do work well coupled together.95% of my car and locomotive fleet has the scalehad couplers.About 5% dose not.And I will be selling all the #5s when I'm finished converting the rest of my cars in the next 3 weeks.
$3.95 ! did you get that from Abie Lincoln in 1823 ? That's $18.95 for ONE, today !
What is the difference between the #148 and the #158 Kadee couplers?
Both are whisker couplers. One has a scale head, and the other has a standard head, similar to the head on the No.5
@@CreativeRails Thanks! Which is more to scale?
@@DrFunFong# 158
It is pronounced Kay - DEE
Thanks for this video,it answers a lot of my questions about which couplers to use. Your explanation of why you use 158 Kadee makes sense. Thank you so much. I subscribed to your channel and I plan on giving your channel a plug on my channel. Your will hear from me again... Wilmer- IHVRR
Thanks so much Wilmer for commenting. I'm glad the video was able to help you out. I just checked out your latest show and I love it! I just subscribed. Keep up the great work!
#5's for everything but will ck out the 158.
Nice! And if you want to stay with the standard head but have the whiskers, you could get the #148's!
I use #5 #158 and # 148
Nice, something I should have mentioned is the 148. Do you plan on converting all to one style?
Creative Rails i use the 158 on my locos because i take them to train shows and show them off and i use them in my cabooses the freight cars i use #5 and # 148
I was looking for something longer for long passenger cars to minimize decoupling. I came up with 146 or 156 with whiskers. Anyone ever try them ?
I use them too. I thought #158 was the bulk pack number. Lol
It' the whisker version of the #58
They look like Janney E type couplers
Sergent Couplers are what I use...
why 25/64" couplers ? 51/128" are the BEST !
I likes Shoo String Couplers. Stay tights wid a gud not and eaze to uncouple wid a sharpe switsh blade.
I use stock couplers. I don't understand why some people replace couplers in brand new locomotives and rolling stock. It makes no sense.
Because what was "stock" in the past is no longer "stock" now, rendering older and newer equipment incompatible. Also, some newer equipment is equipped with stock McHenry couplers which many people claim tend to break (IDK myself). Kadee's are metal.
Thanks for your effort but get the camera off your face and back on the product you're working on :) I will subscribe for awhile. :)
Hey thanks for the follow... for a while... lol! My apologies for not having a different camera angle. The video was not intended as a "how to". I was just trying to demonstrate how quick one could be popped in and installed. If you notice the main camera was done in one take. Thanks for watching!
Don’t worry, his face is compatible.
You said you would show us how to do some things and then we watched your face while you were doing those things off-screen. Also, I don't know what you mean by "universal".
By universal, I mean it is a standard coupler size that will fit almost any coupler box on any piece of rolling stock or locomotive. It's "universal". Thanks for watching!
@@CreativeRails I appreciate your attempt to explain but you are still "talking past me". Having never owned HO trains, I have no idea what a "coupler box" is. P.S. Even when you held the cars up so they were visible within the camera's field of view, the lighting was so poor I didn't understand what you were trying to show us.
@@rogermetzger7335 oh I see... my apologies. The video was intended for more advanced model railroaders. I didn't even think of how it would be perceived from someone just starting out. Thanks so much for the advice. I'll keep it in mind for future uploads. Because it is my intention to make the hobby easy for people to start.
@@CreativeRails You are welcome. In case you want to let me know when you post additional videos, here is my email address. r.metzger44@gmail.com P.S. I'm 76 and electronically challenged.
I think the Kadee #5 are becoming less popular as they are replaced by the whisker style...less parts to fail. What I can't stand are those little clips Athearn used to retain the coupler. A good percent eventually fall off or break.
Lol! So true! I've lost a number of those. Thanks for watching and commenting.
-Ben
The coupler springs for#5 will not allow coupler covers to "seat" in that little notch on Athearn cars, I only use 148s or158s
What does no one like McHenry couplers? I really personally hate kadee And they're missing springs
158's 🚂🇨🇦
Funny
Sounds like it's time for a poll!
Cant see a thing you explain, why not face the camera down instead of your face and blurred fast images....
Kadee 153
First of all stop picking on him on how he pronounced kadee.. Great video instated to put those on all my rolling stock... Looks better. The #5 and proto max i save those for my sons locos and his rolling stock...