Couplers - 7 Secrets to RELIABLE Kadee Remote Magnetic Uncoupling on your HO Scale Model Railroad!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 มิ.ย. 2020
- Some surprising tips to make magnetic coupler operation on your HO scale model railroad more reliable, more satisfying, and FUN! This video focuses on HO scale Kadee magnetic couplers.
Don, a modeler and former Kadee dealer with over 60 years of experience with Kadee magnetics, shares 7 tips to achieve reliable remote magnetic uncoupling.
We've started adding links to products (on Amazon) that we use or feature in our videos.
We have an Amazon page with categories of items we use, including scenery, track, DCC, etc.
www.amazon.com/shop/happy_hob...
Links to Kadee items on Amazon:
-Kadee #5 HO Coupler, 9/32" Center (20pr)
amzn.to/2C6q7Cg
KADEE 206 Insulated Coupler Height Gauge HO KADU0206
amzn.to/2Zynilq - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
WOW ! a Garden scale Layout !
Thank you for posting this information. I have been using Kadee couplers for years and I never once thought about creating friction to help my cars uncouple and stay coupled properly. I learned something new from you. You have a new subscriber.
Thanks for watching, and your kind comments. I've found it doesn't take a lot of friction to make a big difference.
A Big paw with a stick over the layout ALSO disrupts the viewer's enjoyment.
I couldn't agree more!
I have learned a lot watching this presentation. Since I'm dutch I have not only gained knowledge about model construction but also how parts of trains are called/named in the English language. For my this was very educational in more than one way. Greetings from the Netherlands
Thank you again for being a loyal viewer! It is so good to know that these videos have some educational value, along with being fun.
Thanks, lots of good info. Love the fact that you explained WHY.
We often learn "why" through trial and error. I am hoping to help your reduce the "error" part!
THANK YOU FOR SERVING OUR COUNTRY!!!🤘😁🇺🇸 Thank you for making such an informative video.
You bet!
Lots of good info here! Hello from a fellow Michigander (Spring Lake / Muskegon) that also visits Tampa area (Spring Hill & Anna Maria Island)
Hello! It's been a long time since Michigan for me. (1966) I am now across Tampa Bay from Anna Maria Island, in Apollo Beach. Thanks for your comments!
Point 5: Create friction ! at 22:30... I was thinking to add friction to my cars to make yard work more smooth with no cars rolling unwillingly, no undesired uncoupling and no level problems causing cars to move. I was thinking all kind of ways to do it, foams on the axel, etc... And then, I hear you talking about create friction! So cool !!! Thank you, I tough I was the only crazy modeler wanting to add friction to such great rolling stock!!
Is the wire causing unwanted attraction to the magnets?
I am using the rectangle type 308 uncoupler invisible, and I tested it to make the cartridge under the rails larger to be able to slide it halfway to stop the magnet action, and put it back to get the magnet action. (see my small video on my channel). But all that was because unwanted uncoupling!! With friction, no need to worry about that!
Thanks a lot !
I have found that .012 or .015 phosphor-bronze wire gives enough friction to do the job without being too limiting on train length, and of course, is totally non magnetic. The 308 under-ties magnet is a powerful brute that always uncouples when you want. Problem is, it is so powerful it is hard to get anything to pass over it without uncoupling. I like your idea of sliding magnets! If you try the wire "dampers", I would like to know how that works with your sliding magnet!
@@HappyHoboTrains ...non magnetic, great!
For sure I will let you know! Thanks!
@@HappyHoboTrains I just installed a 0.012 Bronze 80/20 wire to one truck. The wire is lightly magnetic, but so light that it is not an issue.
It adds friction for sure, but not so much. I learned by error and trial to use the insulated side of the wheel axle... It did sparks... (sorry the non-insulted side, as the wire touches both the wheek and the axle) As I did not have time to make a TH-cam of it, I did only a public post on my Facebook with pictures and few seconds videos. You may check it.
Thank you again. When it will run through my bigger layout soon, I will let you know how it behaves on the magnets.
facebook.com/luc.dallaire.52/posts/pfbid02L2LSdfsepn1T1PnC9fYqqDSENwaNvJPryWq8pB2CtjxobWcMqe3EpSVFhhbPjWEwl
Yes, please! Do a wheel cleaning clinic!
I am certainly considering doing that. Thanks for your comment!
premium tips brother; thanks
Glad you enjoyed!
Gee, I may be slow but NOT this THICK ! Comon' MAN ! There is SOME good info in here, but I'm too old to wait.
My favorite tip is to use a pencil, preferably a thin lead mechanical click pencil, as a graphite stick! It’s a million times more precise and easier than puffing powder everywhere. Kadee O scale coupler instructions (HO too possibly) mention at length the critical importance of burnishing various coupler surfaces with graphite. If you’ve never read them, I highly recommend it. Most crucial are the top and bottom of the inside of the coupler box! This greatly increases the chance of your kadees spring returning it to the center position.
I’ve fixed many cars with sticking couplers just with 10 seconds of a pencil!
That's a great suggestion, and couldn't agree more. I should have included that tip, and will keep it in mind if I do an update on this video.
thank you for detailed video
as great watching here
Thank you for watching. I hope this is of some help!
most valuable info. Thank you.
Glad to be of help!
Still really valid points two years later. Thanks for sharing your experiences. I’ve subscribed.
Thank you for watching! I appreciate your comments as well.
Thank You for your Service
You are absolutely welcome! Thank you for watching!
Thank you for posting all these lessons learned. My dream layout will have a second deck and remote uncoupling at the summit, so I really appreciate you sharing these tips.
Glad this was of some use! Thanks for your views and comments!
Great lesson here. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Very welcome.
Great video!
Thank you!
I use 1/8" diameter magnets 1/4" long. I drill 1/8" holes between the ties and glue them in. You can ballast over the magnets.
Great idea! I'll have to give it a try. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks!
You bet!
thanks very helpful, seems to explain how my ez track II ez mate magnetic system works
Yes, the design is the same, so the same rules do apply. Thanks for pointing that out.
When I was a member of a huge club layout, they cut the permanent KD magnets in half length wise to get two magnets for the price of one. Also, they avoided using the permanent magnets in some locations. There was a problem in passing sidings at or near the crest or sag of grades, as the train would break apart with the slack running in and out while couplers passed over the magnets. I noticed dozens of places where the shadow of a former magnet showed on the ties where one had been installed but had to be removed or re-located. I think at some point they practically eliminated the permanent magnets from the mainline and near crests and sags, and were looking at a layout re-design incorporating what they had learned about the problems with the magnet placements. I remember some people were pushing for cutting off trip pins and using small screwdrivers, as that was just beginning in popularity in the model press, but most believed it would be better to continue to use automatic and delayed action uncoupling with the screwdrivers as an emergency backup only. I just said at $5+ for a pack of #5 KD's to equip a pair of $3 Ahearn blue box freight cars, there was no way I was cutting my trip pins off on my own stock, so we might as well get used to using them. Now I equip most of my HO stock with the #58 for appearance, although I still use the original no. 5 type oversize KD's on most of my body mounted coupler passenger cars and locomotives that are used for a lot of freight car switching for better capture reliability in coupling.
These are common potential problems, and points out how we need to be careful in planning magnet placement. I have tried to eliminate magnets on the main whenever possible, and recommend the use of the electromagnets where false uncoupling is a potential problem. Thanks for elaborating on your clubs experiences!
Excellent info here. How much less reliable are the scale head couplers? (58/158)
GREAT video! Dymo tape cut "trapezoidally" is a great tip; slippery and "anti-droop" which more than a few KDs "seem to do" (being cantilevered out while inside a slightly oversized non-Kadee box). Thanks for the history lesson about Keith's and Dale's 1947 'first knuckle' iteration which were noticeably 'more angular.' Old Model Railroader magazines from the early 50s sometimes show this slightly different shape coupler head with a wire-thin bar that went straight down.
I'm glad you found this video of some benefit. So often modelers seem to re-invent the same wheel, because no one thought to mention it! Thank you for your comments!
@@HappyHoboTrains So true!
@@luke_atthat
Thanks!
I was especially impressed with your tip for using small wire to add friction to a car. you show something that looks mostly like a paperclip. and suggest that it (I think) is used to wrap around axles on both trucks (2 clips per truck, 1 clip per truck?). But you mention them going "over the bolster" which I have seen on my N scale cars as sometimes sticking up over the height of the axles. You show some close ups of the wires applied, but they did not show enough detail (mostly blackness) on my PC screen to show what you do. Is there any way you could post/send a clear phot of how you have applied the wires? Great tip!
As far as added friction is concerned, it's kind of a trial & error thing. The size of the wire and the tightness of the wrap can make a huge difference. I seem to recall from my hobby shop days, that Kadee had spring to insert into the journal of N-scale trucks for exactly this purpose. My opinion is that anything that is tricky to do in HO is even more so in N! If I were in N-scale, I would probably start with .010" wire around one of the the axles of one truck and see where that goes. If not enough friction, do the other truck, too. The Kadee product is likely worth looking into, too.
Hello. Great video ! Thanks for sharing it. I have subscribed to your channel. I do have American locomotives and rolling stock that use Kadee couplers and I am very happy with the way these couplers work. I am so happy that I am going to replace all Fleischmann couplers in my European (Spanish) locomotives and rolling stock. This means replacing the couplers in over 100 locomotives and over 400 wagons and coaches... It will take some time... I have found that Kadee devices win hands down on coupling/decoupling operations.
It's a big job, for sure, but you don't have to do it all at once!
@@HappyHoboTrains Noooo. :) It will take some time for sure. This is a hobby. It is supposed to be a relaxing activity after all.
@@jagc1969 Yes. Model railroading is like making love; the objective is not to be "finished".
Thank you for that great video I was wondering how couplers work like that I do have a problem though I am visually impaired and it is difficult for me to to change couplers excetera but that's okay I love the modeling anyway I'm actually on my first layout I do have a question not anything to do with couplers but I want to run Cottle track on a plastic table do you think that would work or should I cover the plastic table with wood or foam excetera thank you so much
I am not familiar with Cottle track. Any brand of model railroad track I can think of would not have a problem with a plastic surface, but I can think of a number of reasons to use something else. I would suggest a material that would be more conducive to easily attaching the track, for instance. Homasote is a popular material, but these days lots of folks are using foam planks and attaching track with adhesive. I'm old school and like nails and screws!
This usefully for N- scale as well, they were Kadee but was sold to Micro-Trains
Micro Trains is Kadee's name for their N-scale line of products, dating back maybe 40-50 years. So yes, you are correct that the principles for the N-scale and HO scale are pretty much the same, and also applies to the larger scales as well. It's a great line of products and pretty much sets the standard for the industry. I don't know if the name "Micro Trains" was adopted for marketing reasons, or for legal or other business reasons, but it's appropriately descriptive, in any case!
These are some great tips. Considering on making a small switching layout. Any suggestions for magnet placements?
Magnet placement requires some serious thought. In a yard, it's easy. Just put one non-delayed magnet at the clearance point of each body track. (I touched on this in the video). For industries, I like non-delayed magnets positioned to put cars at the appropriate spot for loading/unloading. If you have multiple industries spaced out along one siding, that may be the time to use the delayed magnets. Be aware that getting reliable delayed action requires the couplers to center smoothly, which is less of a problem today with the better QC of the new models. Years ago, this was a pain, and difficult to do in the old blue-box Athearn cars with the metal snap-on covers, for instance. New Kadee cars are nearly perfect out of the box every time. Delayed magnets can provide a lot of flexibility in the industrial situations. If you have a track plan, spend some time running trains in your mind, and see where you need to uncouple. Pencil in some magnets and see where you may need more. Try to avoid situations where a train can be over more than one magnet at a time, as that will generate bad words. Spend considerable time doing this, as it makes a lot of difference. Better to start with too few, and add more as you find the need. Recessing non-delayed magnets into the ties isn't too tough a job, but if you take one out, hiding the hole is a problem!
Would the under track magnet fit under Bachmann EZ track? There is a space between the track and table the way it's made.
Not sure, but probably it would be too thick. I know the EZ track matches the height of the common cork roadbed, and the Kadee magnet is the right size to fit in a gap in the cork, so you are probably just a little short of being able to fit it into unmodified EZ track, by the thickness of the plastic.
Bachmann sells one
Since the patents have expired and there are replicas. How can I tell if some of the cars that I purchased used have Kadee couplers.
Some of the better clones are really tough to tell from actual Kadees, and some of the knuckle type couplers are pretty obviously different, such as Accumate, which I have not had good results with. The newer cars from Rapido have been very good, and I don't replace them. The Walthers Proto couplers are usually OK, too. Most of the time, the plastic couplers aren't so hot. Best bet is, if you have cars that give you trouble, and you have checked height, centering, etc., just swap them out with Kadees. Silver colored knuckle springs are one giveaway of a copy, and are usually stiffer than Kadee springs, and won't uncouple easily. After a while, you will get to recognize the real thing from the copies.
They really need a switch controlled electric magnet already in my opinion.
Kadee does make an electromagnet uncoupler. I have also used one called "Railcrew" which is totally hidden and works well.
@@HappyHoboTrains That would solve all the unintentional uncouplings caused by the permanent magnet. Downside is it's more complex to install and costs more but real men don't let that stuff scare them.
@@fiddlyphuk6414 You bet. And I can recall someone, somewhere, showing a mechanism they built to flip the under-ties Kadee magnet 90 degrees down when not in use. I was pretty sure that that would have worked just fine, but just how much do you really want to fiddle with?
K a t o track
Ahah! Kato makes some nice stuff. It will probably work OK on most any surface, but still think you should consider how you would attach it, unless this is a temporary setup, which would be just fine.